Bertram 31 Repower, DIESEL Conversion -- NOT ANOTHER 31 on EARTH LIKE THIS!! + Coosa Stringers

This video shows the Coosa Stringers and Engine Beds come to life and eventually integrated into the Hull. This was quite a challenge.
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Part 1 • 31 Bertram Repower, DI...
Part 2.1 • Bertram 31 Repower, DI...
Part 4 • Bertram 31 Repower, DI...
Part 5 • Bertram 31 DIESEL Conv...
Part 6 • Bertram 31 DIESEL Conv...
Part 7 • Bertram 31 Repower - D...
Part 8 • Bertram 31 Repower Ref...
Part 9 • Bertram 31 Restoration...
ALSO Check out the "Wicked Wanda" Build
• F/V "Wicked Wanda"

[@edswider9309]

I love this work about 15 years ago my friend bought a berthrum like this we took out the cryshler 440 and put in marine power the problems started with shaft alignment finally he sold it ran out of time and money this is a real challenge I know from experience

[@vernesecustoms]

Definitely A LOT of work! Very rewarding when she splashes and you hear the Diesels fire! Thanks for watching! I hope you keep following the progress!

[@s.dawson2490]

Awesome work, nicely built. Thank you fkr sharing this series

[@vernesecustoms]

Thank you for watching!! It is absolutely my pleasure to share!!

[@mikepisarski8210]

doing really nice glass work .

[@vernesecustoms]

Thank you @mikepisarki8210 !! I learned from some very talented men that fiberglass doesn't have to be messy. It can look nice!! Then, I practiced... a lot! Thank you for watching and commenting!!

[@Will-No-Co]

As I watch this a lot my questions are answered, but I was really hoping to see some detail about how the original stringers were “fully bonded”. That’s the part I wanted to see. I will say you do some of the best fiberglass work.

[@vernesecustoms]

Thanks for watching @Will-No-Co !! If I understand correctly, you want to know how the 1969 Bertram stringers were bonded? From what I can see, they appear to wrapped with 24 oz woven Roving prior to set in the hull and the more 24 oz woven Roving wrapped and tabbed to the hull. There is no sign of bonding putty in the original attachment. Just piles of woven roving. I will study any sections we haven't yet replaced and update if necessary. Thanks for commenting!!

[@Will-No-Co]

@@vernesecustoms Thanks for responding. No. I wanted to know how your new Coosa stringer attaches to the Bertram stringer. There’s just a small little nub left of the original stringer. Did you mechanically fasten it somehow or is it just bonded to the Coosa? Or is bolted and bonded? Thanks

[@vernesecustoms]

Ahhh! The new stringers encapsulate the original stringers. The Coosa is fit tightly around the stubs, like a finger joint, then bonded and glassed over. There are no bolts or any other hardware. In my opinion, this section of hull is stronger than the existing stringers. One note, we supported the hull with jackstands prior to removing the original stringers and until the Glassworks was complete.

[@Will-No-Co]

@@vernesecustoms That’s great attention to detail supporting the under side of the hull to limit any flexion during stringer removal. I would’ve screwed that up and overlooked that aspect. Now, I must say finger jointing and supporting the underside would’ve been awesome to see and very educational, but I can also understand that you don’t want to give everything away. First rate work nonetheless. I’ll keep watching and learning.

[@vernesecustoms]

@Will-No-Co Thank you!! I am pretty sure the detailed pictures are mixed into one of the sequences. I don't mind sharing at all! If I find them, I will guide you to their loacation!

[@jeffreypinder9398]

There is definitely a "science" to this mod, well done. New and improved stringers to hold much more weight and bulk from the original power plants. Intense work relocating the running gear, assuming for the different power plants and engine bay mods? Any thoughts out handling differences? Any allowance for standing water to drain to the bilge after the new stringer mounts installed? Beautiful work.

[@vernesecustoms]

Thank you Jeffrey! Certainly a tremendous amount of energy going into this modification! I am certain the boat will "feel" entirely different. Hard to define what exactly that will be. And yes, there will be drains for water to eacape to the bilge area! Thank you for sharing your thoughts!!! 👍👍

[@douglasthompson2740]

I would want to double and triple check that there is plenty of room to work a wrench on the mounting bolts when you have to align the engine to the shaft flange. That stringer looks like it could block the area when the completed engine is installed or make it very difficult to access.

[@vernesecustoms]

Thanks, Douglas! I am certain we'll have room to adjust. Those ledges are 6.75" wide and the isolators set on the inboard edge. I have worked in much tighter spots. I will publish details of the installation when we get there! Thanks for watching!

[@TheNomad35]

Hey Douglas! I did triple check! Turns out those Isolators (Engine Mounts) are about 4" tall. The lower nut will be just a bit lower than the outboard stringers. I will video the installation! Thanks for the heads up!!

[@JWnFlorida]

Why don't builder's use vacuum bagged cussa.. instead of carbon fiber for boats? In particular the center console crowd who want to go fast.. either to the sand bar or like me across to fish and home for dinner. P.S. love the quality of work. I have only rehabbed one boat not rebuilt one, yet.. an older rybo is on the bucket list.

[@vernesecustoms]

I don't know what builders use. I use Coosa anywhere high density core can benefit the boat. Restoring is much more challenging than building new. I have done both. We remove fiberglass looking for fractures and delamination as we go. Trying to keep as much of the original laminate as possible. Thanks for watching and for the kind comments!!

[@714seamonster6]

FREAKING AWESOME! It’s cool to see the thought and engineering go into rehab project like this. BTW, what kind of bonding putty are you using? It sure looks like it makes tabbing in everything super clean. Maybe for some other vids you can post some tech details like working times, catalysts,techniques how you can achieve results like the Bert31.

[@vernesecustoms]

Great suggestions! Didn't think to go into that kind of detail. I will incorporate that Into the next video! Thank you for watching and commenting!!

[@714seamonster6]

@@vernesecustoms hell yeah, there’s lots of gold in your vids if you pay attention to the details

[@JWnFlorida]

And do you spray gel coat after? Beautiful work by the way.

[@vernesecustoms]

This engine room will be finished in AwlGrip. Next the glass will be sanded and smoothed. Then fairing and high build. Check back. I will publish the process! Thanks for watching and commenting!!

[@coleallsopp9820]

I have more questions than can reasonably be asked in the comment section of a KZbin video.

[@vernesecustoms]

vernese.com/contact/ Shoot me a list. I will be happy to answer your questions!!

[@xuv5607]

I assume you keep your DXF for these parts? Will you make them available for sale in the future?

[@vernesecustoms]

Anything is possible. Which parts in particular are you most interested in?

[@xuv5607]

@@vernesecustoms Your Diesel stringer mounts for sure! Possibly the rear cabin bulkhead.

[@vernesecustoms]

@@xuv5607 I have the templates for sure!

[@xuv5607]

@@vernesecustoms Nice to know! Great channel brother keep up the great videos

[@igotatan1]

I may have missed it but why would you need to glass coosa board before installation?

[@vernesecustoms]

Great question! I chose to do multiple layups in the shop mainly because I could achieve a superior quality laminate in the shop vs. in the hull. The layup was .75 CSM, Treviera 150, .75 CMS on both sides (stop and trim) then .75 CSM, 1208, 3610, 1208, .75 CSM both sides overlapping the top. That would be pretty tough to do in the hull and not make a big mess. Not impossible but the quality would suffer. Thanks for watching!! Again, GREAT QUESTION!! 👍

[@vernesecustoms]

Part 2 of my answer: I am working with Vinyl Ester Resin with a 40-minute gel-time @70 degrees. With the temperatures around 80-85°, we were getting 25-28 minutes to work. I always do what is best for the boat, not what is easiest. In this case, it was "How do I get the highest quality possible?" I hope that explains it!! Also, the little outboard transverse webs were primed, then glassed in the hull entirely.

[@igotatan1]

@@vernesecustoms Ok, so it was basically for increased stability, and not absolutely necessary. Very nice. Thanks. I was looking at older projects that might need new stringers, and thought coosa board would be perfect, then I saw your vid. I like the idea behind coosa, being it would be a one time fix, not worrying about rot, as well as impervious to oil, and whatnot. Sweet, thanks again.

[@vernesecustoms]

@igotatan1 I highly recommend composite coring over wood. The initial cost is high. But, if it is worth doing, it is worth doing right!! (If the budget permits, of course)

[@brycedoughty911]

How did the vinegar work

[@vernesecustoms]

Worked great on my elbows.. but I was craving salt and vinegar chips afterwards 🙄 Today turned into GrindFest 2023.. no glasswork to try it on.. I will try some tomorrow for sure.. standby... I will update!