Bespoke tailored trouser pattern cutting PART 1

[@barbaramatthews4735]

I have been watching pattern drafting trousers videos on KZbin for about a week. I finally finished my personal pattern tonight. I have an old shhet I bought in a thrift store that I will test it on. I'm not going to sew until tomorrow. I think the whole concept of making patterns is interesting. I've sewn many commercial patterns and wanted yo try my own. I think I have watched all the women's videos, now I'm watching the mens. There isn't really a lot of difference other than women's trousers require more ease in the hips. I love sewing. Pattern making is my next step in a lifetime hobby.

[@piccalillipit9211]

How did they turn out...???

[@barbaramatthews4735]

@piccalillipit9211 I made one pair, but they didn't fit. I'll try again but I've been busy lately.

[@isabeedemski3635]

Worth clicking to see that old tailors ruler!

[@smgs4life2]

Lovely and loaded with great information. I took notes. Again, much gratitude and I appreciate you ❤️🧵🪡

[@jojoremeny]

If you need any help just post on my Facebook sewing group..

[@zipastewards1906]

Thank you for this!! I am currently making a bespoke suit for my dad and I needed help with eh pants thank you.

[@jojoremeny]

My new video courses in pattern cutting trousers, waistcoats, making traditional trousers, using traditional tailoring techniques will be available to buy from my new website soon..

[@jojoremeny]

Any help just let me know

[@syedtahaaljunied1900]

How much fabric do you need to make full length trousers for someone that is 6FT?

[@jojoremeny]

1 and a quarter metres is good

[@tumelosemela5103]

Hello there thanks, do you have a video how to sew a bespoke pants

[@jojoremeny]

It will be available to buy from my website later this year . I'm stopping doing free tutorials soon as I need to sustain my shop and business .. There will be courses on real bespoke tailoring courses to buy from my website later this year.

[@lauraafrouzian2959]

You explained very nice but we couldn't see some areas of the drafting. Still I will follow you , and will give you a like 👍 Greetings from Bakersfield. California USA 🇺🇸

[@jojoremeny]

Hi, this was only a test video tutorial I made that was not meant to stay on You Tube I didn't have any equipment which I have today for filming my new courses The video will be deleted once I launch my new instructional video courses on bespoke tailoring ' How to drape,cut and sew traditional bespoke tailored trousers and waistcoats '.

[@jojoremeny]

Here's a sample of one of my short tip tutorials which I filmed today .. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eHmoiWiciNifaJY

[@adrielrowley]

So if not measuring and marking 1/4 waist plus dart, how is this method achieve the correct waist size?

[@jojoremeny]

Some systems get 1/4 size from top side for waist My system is different. I only do this when I have a disproportionate figuration in waist and hip measurements. My system is a 1/4 of hips and top waist of top side derives from this .. The waist is only then calculated on the underside when underside is being drafted. This,method works beautifully for a proportionate figure . If ratio between hips and waist is more thsn 8 inches ,I modify this system a little to get waist on top side first .

[@adrielrowley]

@@jojoremeny, due to grammar and punctuation I am having trouble understanding. So total waist is 1/4 the seat? My seat is 45 inches. That mean my waist be 11.25 inches, no one is that small.

[@jojoremeny]

No ..my drafting starts from 1/4 hip measurements. I do not measure any waist at all until I draft the underside from the topside.. Only when I need to get waist measurements to finish off underside, will I measure the top side , waist pattern ,then measure from my seat angle of underside to my waist measurements ,then add my,darts ,pleats etc... and all my seam allowances needed for both top side and underside. This then will place my waist mark on underside side seam .. Remember we are working on half a pattern at this stage top side and underside so we only need half the waist measurements.. Now this way works beautifully for a proportionate figure with hips and waist in proportion with each other . If a customer has a very big seat and small waist or a very big waist with a smaller seat ,I cut a little differently..

[@iknownothing-m8c]

Going to try this. How much ease do you add to your knee and hem measurements?

[@jojoremeny]

Ease on seat is usually about 2inches maybe a little more or less..take your seat measurements not tight around widest hips ..put 2 fingers inside tape measurements as you put tape measurements..make sure not tight but slightly loose on measuring tape. This will be your added ease ..

[@iknownothing-m8c]

@@jojoremeny Thank you so much! Maybe I can finally have (make) a pair of pants that fit me. 170cm 55kg. :P

[@jojoremeny]

@@iknownothing-m8c ..I'm just launching one of the most comprehensive instructional video course on draping and dressmaking in next few weeks .. You will see the trailers here .. in next few months I will be making a new instructional video course on bespoke tailoring . drafting a waistcoat pattern Part 1 part 2 will be showing how to sew the waistcoats.. Following on from there I will releasing a new instructional video course in trouser. Drafting and sewing bespoke trousers which will be more in a professional format than videos here.. The videos here were just a trial sample which will be taken down once my professional videos are launched.. It will be in more more detail and more clarity. .

[@iknownothing-m8c]

@@jojoremeny Cool! Hope I'll be able to afford it on a student income. I bet many amateurs like me would like to know how to do it with tailor-professional methods but not necessarily feel the need to have it look as extremely high quality as you would be able to do it.

[@jojoremeny]

@@iknownothing-m8c my videos will be cheap as chips!!. My dressmaking course I'm launching hopefully next week is in 2 parts with 14 videos. I'm selling them as a special limited offer for only £80 reduced from £190 ..on my one to one course at my shop my course is £350.. so these dressmaking and tailoring courses online will be very cheap as I want everyone to learn as I'm a very passionate teacher .. Also when you buy my courses I will give you one to one help by phone and video chat .. You can't beat the value of that !!.

[@roohamratkum6916]

Do you train students in academy Or online

[@jojoremeny]

Hello , I train students at my shop In England.. I am launching one of the most comprehensive and indepth instructional video courses ever produced on:. Draping,pattern cutting and sewing a classic Sheath dress '. 14 videos and over 16 hours of tuition. With free support and help for 6 months.. This will be launched next month .. Later this year ,I will launch Tailoring courses online as well .. I suggest that you join my new sewing group on Facebook,where I upload free tutorials. Also you will be able to see when i launch my online courses.. facebook.com/groups/327544512368523/?ref=share

[@wordartalphabet963]

I Live in India and I Want to Know These Scales from Where can I Get?

[@asherarnold5884]

I just found your channel. I love this in depth tutorial. I was wondering if it made any difference on the outside waist to knee line that it didn't touch the far right (outside leg) line at the real seat of crotch lines? will this not make the seat tight? Also when you cut out the pattern do you cut on the lines or a 1/4 inch outside the seam lines. I'm assuming you need to have some material to sew together. Thank you so much again. I am trying to make myself a pair or pairs of high waisted dress trousers and this video helps big time.

[@jojoremeny]

Hi. I will be releasing tailoring tutorial videos from my new ecommerce website within next 8 weeks. This will be indepth with close up shots and more details than current video with 1-1 help by what's app video or zoom after purchase of the videos.. The website should be live in March www.jojoremeny.com.. My new series : Tailoring bespoke pattern cutting trousers, making and stitching bespoke trousers, draping and pattern cutting a bespoke waistcoat, Making a bespoke waistcoat.. Women's designs. Draping a waist block, draping a hip block, Draping on a figure, designing and sewing a Sheath dress from beginning to end.

[@jojoremeny]

In relation to your questions :. You are talking about the seat line angle from the underside I'm presuming.. This is determined by your seat and waist measurement..I learnt from 4 master tailors who all had different trouser cutting systems so made, my own from them... I have tried to simplify this cutting method so everyone can understand... Where your top side (front) trouser is at real seat line, just as it curves down this is, where you put your underside (back) trouser to. Then at waistline measure from . Centre crease line to front fly and divide by 3. From. Crease line put this mark and this will be your new underside seat angle.. Of course some people have disproportionate waist and hip measurement so you would have to come back or forward if this line to compensate.. I will go into more details on my tutorial course on trouser making.. Regards to seams all patterns include seam allowances of 1 cm. You cut on line not 1/4 inch outside or 1cm outside... Also remember I have put inlays on only for fittings, just incase it's too tight These are trimmed off afterwards Hope that helps.. Thanks for your comments

[@jojoremeny]

Of course at beginning you always, leave inlay avd after fitting cut off inlay.. You then only leave inlay on back underside seat seam of around 1 1/4 inch and 3/4 inch on underside inside leg down to knee.. Traditionally tailors put this 3/4 inch all way down inside leg.. I used to do this, method, but know only put Inlay down to knee

[@ngoziufere]

@@jojoremenyplease I have a similar question, but still confused by your response 😅. I’m new to this. When you curved the waist to knee on the side hem, it didn’t touch the side line you drew near the selvage. Please, is there a reason for this and wouldn’t it reduce the initial measurement and make it too tight? I’m a tad confused.

[@jojoremeny]

No as you can see I add a little tolerance of half inch when calculating the hips( seat) on that line before I drew the side seam.Also when taking the be seat measure I always take an easy seat measurement that's not tight but allow tolerance . You can see in part 2 the seat measurement which is plenty .

[@pharmagrad]

by dart, in this video, do u mean pleat?

[@jojoremeny]

In this draft there is no pleat only darts

[@pharmagrad]

@@jojoremeny ok. isnt that a bit feminine for a gents pants?

[@jojoremeny]

@@pharmagrad no ..most guys for modern pants/trousers all have darts or no darts in.. Pleats are quite an old fashioned way of giving more room in trousers ..40s 50s style.. I never wear pleated trousers.. Most modern guys now want a more streamlined skinny look ..

[@zuhairbutt3747]

I think this is not plate it's dart and I don't think so we need it specialy in gents pant

[@jojoremeny]

@@zuhairbutt3747 .. Some taiiors always use darts to give a better fit in front and allows a little ease .. Remember some men like trousers sitting on waist so you do need a dart to shape over that area .. I prefer not to put darts in myself as most customers today have a lower cut trousers so I personally feel you don't need the darts ..If customers want darts. I will put them in. .

[@darrell9294]

Should move the dart and hide it in the pocket

[@jojoremeny]

You don't hide any dart except when cutting back yoke of jeans the dart is shaped in the back yoke itself . On bespoke tailored trousers the dart gives shape and sometimes is moved from crease line to natural hip bone near slanted pocked for better fit .This is what real bespoke tailors do . I can see you are not a bespoke tailor at all!! . Go and learn from a traditional bespoke tailor.

[@darrell9294]

@@jojoremeny you can absolutely hide the dart in the mouth of the slant pocket so you don't have some ugly dart showing in the front of the trousers. Maybe you're not as good of a tailor as you think you are.... But hey if you're happy making sub par trash then just keep doing what you're doing.

[@jojoremeny]

@darrell9294 Darrell you really are an idiot.. I do savile Row style suits ..you don't even know how to probably sew a button on buffoon.. The darts are there for a reason to give shape,which you don't put behind any pocket ...Any kindergarten kid could tell you the function of a dart .it's there for a purpose .. Why don't you put up some videos and let's see your skillset which I guarantee you it's zero ..Tag me when you do !! I'm a professional fashion designer, bespoke tailor and educator,making and teaching couture designs and bespoke suits from my shop in England, including online courses in : Draping,pattern cutting,dressmaking ,shirt making and real bespoke custom suit making . You couldn't afford my trousers I charge for bespoke so keep buying your cheap trash .. let me know when you upload your educational video on cutting trousers with a hidden dart in the pocket !!. What an imbecile!!

[@HoneysBabyBear]

Just a couple suggestions I would like to make for your KZbin videos. Don't be afraid to ask people at the end. If they enjoyed your video, or found it helpful to please take a moment and hit that "like" button, and to subscribe to your channel. This video has 10,000 views, but only about 150 likes. It will really help your KZbin profile if more of those thousands watching, "liked" your video, instead of just watching. I've noticed this on many sewing type tutorials, compared to other types of videos or tutorials on KZbin. I'm guessing it has a lot to do with the type of people watching sewing tutorials. Many are likely not as tech savvy. Or really familiar with all aspects of KZbin. So it just doesn't occur to them to like the sewing tutorials they watch. Also, watching this video. You kept cutting off areas of the pattern you were drawing out from view. When you finished drawing up the seam allowance at the bottom of the pants near the end. You never actually showed it once in the video. There were other points you moved the camera to show areas. When the camera view was actually looking over at the Iron or elsewhere, other than what you were trying to show. Just as someone that enjoys sewing, and while I enjoyed your tutorial. It would have been helpful if certain parts of the drawn out pattern were not cut out of the view completely. Perhaps you can find a tripod or other means of setting your camera up to get a better whole view of what you're trying to teach. Then when you want to move in closer. Make sure you're looking at your view screen to see that it is actually showing on the screen, what you're explaining. Just some thoughts, take them or leave them as you see fit. : )

[@jojoremeny]

Hi ..this video was not meant to be put up as a real tutorial video ..it was put up as a test ..I forgot to take it down but have left it up ..I was new to video filming and didn't have the right equipment to film.. This was made during the pandemic lockdown. Since then I have purchased some professional equipment to film and now next week I'm launching one of the most comprehensive and in-depth instructional video courses ever produced on Draping,pattern cutting and sewing a dress .. I'm selling all my courses so they are totally professional now .. Later this year I will be launching a new instructional video course on pattern cutting and sewing bespoke tailored waistcoats and trousers which will be more in-depth than this video and with more angles and clearer views ... Of course the new instructional videos will not be free and these videos will be deleted .. Thanks for your suggestions but they have already been acknowledged as this video was going to be deleted .. . Here's trailer to my new course on dressmaking .. 14 videos and nearly 17 hours of tuition.. It will be launched within the next week or so and the Tailoring courses will follow soon. Watch this space.... kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZWtlXh8gZ13mbM.. Also remember my tutorials are not for you tube but for sale .... I will only be putting up some free segments of my course on utube to generate interest to buy my courses ..

[@HoneysBabyBear]

@@jojoremeny You're obviously a good instructor! The only issues I saw were with the video, not your instructions. So I'm sure your newer videos will work out much better. I wish you success in people signing up for your new courses!

[@jojoremeny]

@@HoneysBabyBear thanks for your kind words.. I'm passionate about what I teach and want all my students to be better than me !! It's not all about money ,but I have a shop and need to survive .. All my courses will get free support and help...

[@venkatareddy2506]

please do the rest of the pattern quickly and upload please.

[@jojoremeny]

My 2nd video is up. Send me your what's app I will send to u