Drafting Bespoke Trousers | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London

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After taking Kirby's measurements and watching legendary tailor Terry Haste draft Kirby's jacket pattern, the next step in creating a bespoke suit is to draft the trousers. In today's video, talented trouser cutter Suyamba Kumaresan walks us through the process of designing and drafting the various elements that make up the bespoke trousers.
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#tailoring #bespokesuits #kirbyallison
VIDEOS WITH KENT & HASTE
Fabric Cutting | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London • Fabric Cutting | Doubl...
Drafting Bespoke Trousers | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London • Drafting Bespoke Trous...
Drafting A Bespoke Suit Jacket | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London • Drafting A Bespoke Sui...
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Drafting A Bespoke Suit Jacket | With Kent & Haste
00:00 Introduction
00:26 Beginning drafting
01:41 Drafting for the individual
03:00 center line
04:00 write the details
06:15 the topside comes together
07:40 the extra allowance
08:19 Cutting the topside out
09:21 starting the underside
11:19 the artistry of drafting
12:26 The seat angle
13:35 Allowance for darts and pleats
15:00 underside dart
15:44 Cutting it out
17:01 the 2 patterns
17:23 what's next?
Get in touch with Kent & Haste:
www.kenthaste.co.uk/
@kenthastelachter
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INSTAGRAM / kirbyallison

[@QuiickScopeThis]

She really just incredible in her clarity of explanation but also she's very natural 'on camera'. Definitely would love to see plenty more content with her in the future.

[@rcmast3rtract0rking]

I agree

[@aitornavarro6597]

I think I know what you're referring to with "natural on camera" I agree 😉

[@stephen2634]

I would challenge any of the people to draft a pair of pants based on her explanation . Give me a break? They look like my grand father’s trousers. First of all you draft the front , and the back on top of it , cause there is a relationship between the two . It’s called balance . What she made is a rough block that would get fitted to the customer. Any donkey can do that. Let’s see her draft a pant that had to be correct 98% with out any fittings. By the way the double pleat are the easiest pant to draft. Why ? The front has no shape. How convenient for the old man to pick it.

[@bruz5154]

@@aitornavarro6597 freak behaviour

[@GeorgeZimmermen]

I bet you would……

[@XiphosGladius]

She is absolutely gorgeous. ❤

[@Chiefqueef-]

This woman is a stunner.

[@BriarLeaf00]

Don't usually expect to see an incredibly beautiful woman just browsing for something to sleep to.

[@CheckmichUnleashed]

She is talking normaly and makes u sleepy, wonderful😇

[@1220LOUIE]

Yes she is

[@iknowthisone6844]

its a human being, be nice

[@andrefilipe9080]

@@iknowthisone6844 Isn't complimenting her, being nice?

[@joestone7662]

Hearing Mr Kent and Haste squabbling in the background is too funny

[@kmax1223]

He is fussy!

[@NISSANZ33]

@@kmax1223 i chuckled to think they’re talking about Kirby 😂

[@mach5jeep]

Like an old married couple

[@Ibnthaman82]

Suyamba is beautiful, intuitive and informative. Need more content of her!

[@OngoGablogian185]

Suyamba's rise has been meteoric, lol. She's a fan favourite already. We all love her.

[@TheNutriarat]

Suyamba is finer than the trousers she is drafting. Thanks Kirby. Great video, as always.

[@DanRobards]

Agreed!

[@glenngray6859]

Yes she is.

[@TheGodKingZul]

ONG

[@nigelbarker8726]

Her ability to provide a clear extemporaneous explanation of what she is doing is quite incredible.

[@grahamwalton1049]

She is made for TV.

[@AN-999]

Bet you think you're very wise. What is wrong with just "clear explanation"?! I remember once listening to a linguist - because ever since i found out about the late great Ludwig Wittgenstein i became fascinated with language. So, this linguist was talking about how the average person is intrigued by big words, whereas fellow linguists by words such "on" .. "of", or you should hear Chomsky going philosophical on "wanna", "gonna",.... Sorry if i came off pedantic, or offensive, as i don't know you. but just felt like the long word was so uncalled for. Then again, the weed hit strong, so excuse my drama. Imma unpause the video, get back to the tingles + thc == great sleep (hopefully 🙏🙏🙏🤲🤲🤲🤲)😀😀

[@nigelbarker8726]

@@AN-999 perhaps 'off the cuff' then?

[@holeefuk413]

@@AN-999 you're weird

[@AN-999]

@@holeefuk413 weird is good, no?

[@richtonge2736]

Hearing John and Terry in the background is brilliant. Squabbling like an old married couple. I'd love to know who John thinks is very fussy.. 3 times. My favourite series so far with Texas Traditions a close 2nd

[@kristymcmillan7481]

Yes, I really, really want o know who’s so fussy! That aside this a fabulous video!

[@shotty1673]

Npc

[@Bushes1701]

i was hoping he was talking about Kirby just for the giggles haha

[@Dhal-SimMusic]

Around 7:30 hearing John in the background saying 'he is fussy!!' haha and again at 9:58

[@rustybarrel516]

6:50 as well. Is that background audio on a loop?

[@ahmadtirmzi6143]

Lovely to see Suyamba’s passion for the craft. A master-tailor in the making indeed… Such amazing work from Kirby and his team; fine details like the well timed overlays of the trouser pattern, really showcase the effort and attention-to-detail the team is putting in each video. Such rare content, worthy of watching over and over. Very few KZbinrs are producing such original work on classic menswear (the only others might be Hugo & Sonya from Sartorial Talks)

[@kirbyallison]

Thank you very much!

[@PeterRatcliffe]

This girl should have her own show! Absolute star

[@Yasoshly]

She is very knowledgeable in her craft and the whole video passed by so quick and there wasn't a single pause or 'you know' 'uhm' 'like' from her. Considering her age being very young, she explained everything like a 20 year experienced artisan and most importantly while doing the job.

[@theniceneighbor]

I could watch this for days. Clothes, a lovely lady, and ASMR is like a trio of all of my favorites in one video.

[@juliemcleod9869]

It is very ASMR!

[@RamblingVlogger]

I’m so happy someone is keeping traditions alive and helping to preserve the craftsmanship of the days past.

[@FCVP71]

It's just because of the quotas. Migrant, female, I think even lesbian. Nowadays, you can only show such a workforce to be sufficiently PC...

[@Legitballin]

@@FCVP71 Oof. This is possibly the coldest take I have ever seen. I feel embarrassed for you. Take a hike, pal.

[@KhanyoMjamba]

Absolute GOLD. She is clear, pretty, professional and her ASMR enunciation is top notch.

[@805tmann]

The ASMR is phenomenal. Also fun fact: Suyamba creates ethically sourced and sustainable scrunchies and pillows from cloth scraps which is awesome!

[@m.saavedramena9533]

Where can I find them? I would love to purchase something that she has created, she's so talented!

[@BigSkinnySlimm]

Mr. Allen, i believe i speak for many of us when i say we could watch Suyamba explain her process as she goes for quite some time. I'm not sure if it's possible, or even something everyone involved would be interested in, but i strongly believe some series featuring Suyamba as the "Star" would do very well among both bespoke and asmr audiences. Her voice is very soothing alongside the sounds of the pencil on the drafting paper as she works, and watching the process in such detail is also a perfect window into a world many of us are unable to experience personally. Just wanted to share these thoughts. Thank you for your time and commitment to bringing us these videos, and i hope this comment finds you well!

[@jimallen8238]

Told my wife I was watching videos on suit making. When she came to “check on me” she saw Suyamba and I was busted. Had to cut the video short, but I did save it 🤭

[@martijnkleine]

I was in London this week for holiday, passed the shop (just passed, these suits are out of my league I guess) to see it in real life and saw Suyamba somewhere in the shop. Funny to see videos for months and later that shop and person in real life.

[@asmrasmr6229]

Kirby's channel has so much ASMR potential

[@1220LOUIE]

I can watch her all day

[@paulcarlsen4088]

That’s a great animation of what she was drawing on the pattern. Thank you for the videos of the bespoke process!

[@josephpatterson4283]

Having never owned a bespoke suit, and probably never will, I am duly impressed with the craftsmanship that goes into making one and thanks for bringing this to us.

[@ZaydDepaor]

This is very professional but complicated, the quick way...is to get your client to lie down on the fabric, trace around him with chalk, so you have a full man silhouette, then fold it over so you have two the same when you cut it out, stitch them together or staple them together or glue them if you can't sew well, then cut in half at the waist for the trousers and jacket, then it is all done, but it wont look as neat. Just remember to cut the head off the man silhouette, otherwise you will have a teddy bear ready to be stuffed rather than a suit.

[@imightbewrong_]

Probably one of my favourite comments for quite some time.

[@ZaydDepaor]

@@imightbewrong_ I'm glad someone appreciated it 😄

[@earl-grey-milk-tea]

1) Suyamba's hair is fantastic but also she's an excellent presenter 2) keep the pattern drafting & fitting videos coming! they're so helpful for those of us who sew

[@jamesleung8679]

She's got a good voice, very soothing.

[@walterroberts2861]

"Thanks A lot; Sir Kirby Allison; For Inviting Us!!!!"

[@MichaelOssen]

So funny, I actually decided to rewatch the original Kent Haste fitting last night. How FITTING!

[@walterroberts2861]

Her Understanding On This Method; And Her Wisdom and Knowledge Toward Its Precision Is Impeccable.

[@moniquewilson4179]

This might just be my favorite series. Sooooooo packed with knowledge, skill, and craft (& ASMR!).

[@TheDreamtimezzz]

Listen in the background at around 7:33. Did I hear what I thought I heard? Kirby is what? 😮 😀

[@Plateaudweller]

As a craftsman there is something really special watching and listening to an experienced craftsman/woman of a different trade plying their trade. Its something to do with the easy you only get from years of experience.

[@willhunt6897]

I hope Suyamba knows how much she is admired. Beautiful, intelligent and a divine voice 🙏

[@donniepesky]

Oh she knows. She knows exactly what she’s doing.

[@adamgable4346]

Truly an art, how she visualizes everything ahead of time in her head is amazing

[@gwr4fun]

I'm bad with names, my bad, but the lady as a cutter is a real professional and a lovely presence too in the shop.

[@jtb52]

Excellent get this lady a channel

[@russellphelps3808]

This woman needs her own youtube channel

[@gusseisern1151]

beautiful hair

[@berticusmaximus8381]

Whoah. Serious ASMR going on here. Real ASMR, not the garbage stuff. And what a professional. She knows her craft well.

[@walterroberts2861]

And Then Present Them; Throughout; In A Professional Portfolio; With Your Designers and Those Whom Speck; The Garments; This Is Such A Great Level Of Lessons; And Also Professionalism;

[@keithgoodson9697]

I love the way these videos are structured and so educational..The dedication to their craft is awe inspiring..I watch these videos over and over and fall asleep 😴 to them. Thank-you Kirby.

[@Bourne1984]

What a talent. And her voice, so nice.

[@jacobsiegfried1498]

She is absolutely stunning

[@mojo6691]

Everything about her is so mesmerizing 💘. Her voice and mannerisms are soft and relaxing 😌.

[@programmerx8455]

Finally!! Been waiting for the continuation of this series, Good work Kirby! Top notch video quality!

[@marknewman3360]

What a great tutorial. she has a greet approach.

[@kowanmcgarry]

One of the best videos Kirby Allison has on his channel.

[@alanbrooke144]

The camera work and editing is really well done.

[@gBORG69_]

I have been waiting for this. These three are incredibly talented. Looking forward to the first fitting video.

[@richarddr1234]

This is all very fascinating. To see it all translated into a graphic so we can see exactly what was being drawn. I can see a full course on pattern drafting being taught this way.

[@BingusWingus]

I love the build-up for the suit in this series Kirby; I’m both learning much from it, and am foaming at the mouth to see the result at the end 😊 great job!

[@alphonso0077]

Nothing like watching professionals doing their work.

[@davidhall8049]

Great video it’s amazing how precise everything is no room for mistakes thank you all involved the young lady is wonderful

[@DJFrizzBizz]

Please keep more videos like these coming. Thank you very much!

[@cptj4xsparrow904]

I am so happy to see this Video. Thank you for the amazing work Kirby ❤️

[@KatelynnLynn]

Really love the lean into ASMR on this one, thank you for this!!

[@ianwalls4976]

It's magnificent to watch a true artist that has a passion for the outstanding work that's she puts into drafting. Thankyou kirby for the amazing episode 👏

[@danp8950]

Beautiful to watch. So talented.

[@nubbinthemonkey]

She's stunning. Also, those are the biggest scissors in the world

[@MaxBeaulieu]

Amazing to see a master at work!

[@rcmast3rtract0rking]

This is pure bliss for my ears

[@mLi75]

"older than John and Terry"... tough crowd LOL

[@user-lo8lw6ws5r]

Really loving this little series, informative, relaxing, fascinating to watch the craft, there are some amazing videos on KZbin on the whole tailoring process but this has raised the bar, only downside is having to wait for the next installment lol

[@i.o.3563]

What a gorgeous lady! Such a nice accent, pure joy to listen, and watch, to be completely honest.

[@desmond1382]

This lecture was must needed .

[@sauceploxx4565]

Love seeing the pattern development phase of this craft! After watching a korean tailor do this, I'm so glad to see and hear this process first hand.

[@graemeherrington6673]

Kirby, fabulous stuff. It really gets into the heart of what makes London different.

[@princemarkokibe7661]

Wow, that intro blew me away. Well made.

[@Lanark83]

Fabulous. Someone needs to set Suyamba her up in her own store.

[@dialedindetail5899]

Fantastic. Could watch a true artist like Suyamba work all day and her running explanation is fascinating. Well done. So thrilled you brought this amazing shop into the lime light

[@Reda2k23]

I actually learned a lot from her explanations. Amazing talent!

[@shaynesparkes8740]

👏 I love watching these video and Suyamba skills are exemplary… working with those two master craftsmen has got to be rewarding… all the knowledge-skill and clientele. She a favourite of mine now. Well done 👍

[@chrisv.s.3403]

You've hit a homerun Kirby. Suyamba 🔥 + talented!

[@cianog]

Highly skilled work👍

[@walterroberts2861]

"Thanks Madame; For You Are Patiently Taking Me Through Designer; Clothing and Style Etiquette;" Walter-Allen Roberts

[@lizziehoodfleming]

Fantastic video!!!!

[@dkelly413]

Quality content as always

[@benwing19877]

Been waiting for this!!!

[@user-ql4ud9zr7m]

What’s a beautiful voice this lady has

[@dawnprincess1878]

Kirby, I am a lay sewist and I have learned tips from their videos. Thank you!

[@jon8304]

A very knowledgeable and skillful tailor. Great presence on camera as well. She no doubt has a bright and fruitful career ahead of her.

[@heaton5228]

She’s amazing true natural with the camera thank you for this episode ❤

[@DecemberNames]

I just watched your video and I absolutely loved it! I found your presentation to be incredibly informative and engaging. You did a great job of breaking down complex concepts into easy-to-understand terms. I also appreciated the humor and personal anecdotes that you sprinkled throughout the video. It made the content more relatable and enjoyable. You're one of the few KZbinrs who I can consistently count on to deliver high-quality content. Keep up the great work! "I outsourced this feedback to AI"

[@jsmithgate]

What a skilled and beautiful woman. I couldn't take my eyes off her . Never would I have guessed her profession in a thousand years. Shame on me I will never judge a book by its cover again. 🙂

[@shindra86]

Great video!

[@viarnay]

Nice ASMR session, thanks...😊

[@bespokefashion5259]

Very nice work

[@kevindhaussy3042]

She has a really good soothing voice 😍

[@Mrmannyguy]

I admire her skills

[@7477238]

I'm a guy and I'm jealous of Suyamba's hair.

[@chrisholt7561]

She got the word "established" in there in the first minute...

[@indianasquatchunters]

Ah do we have a fellow unintentional asmr fan here? A man of fine tastes and culture I see

[@chrisholt7561]

@@indianasquatchunters Thank you! I am the proud owner of several TM Lewin shirts from the London shop in the video you allude to. Shirts only, as my homeland defence budget can't afford to send my navy to war.

[@talltrini10]

@@chrisholt7561 bravo, good sir!

[@mattiasx4623]

Very informative.

[@MichaelE.Douroux]

Excellent editing and music.

[@jlofton52]

We need more of her!

[@marioe6696]

Talented and lovely lady. Really enjoyed this video. It was entertaining, relaxing, and some good ASMR.

[@benjaminblakemore9704]

SO INTERESTING KIRBY 😜

[@owaina2765]

Kirby, this is a brilliant vid and series so far. Love it. Can we see move vids if this team? Suyamba, you are very talented , great vid. Thank you

[@dalebanana1956]

"He is fussy" plays when ever I get a text message now.

[@Bogdankhromov]

Thank you!

[@robsonandrade9149]

Que trabalho fantástico!