Bespoke Trouser Cuffs Three Ways: Buttoned, Hand-Finished & Machined (no exposed overlocker)

[@mca4u]

One of the most inspirational bespoke tailors on KZbin. I bought both his excellent bespoke shirt & trouser making tutorials which are so beautifully detailed for beginners and advanced level. A complete novice, I purchased a Juki 8700 (coupled it myself), slowed down the servomotor with 40mm pulley and have been practicing drafting (using Valentina) and sewing shirt components - first just making collars, 5mm hems, plackets, cuffs etc. - from his bespoke courses, just learning to sew before making my first shirt and trousers. Guy had me believing I could make shirts as well as Wil Whiting - just bring your passion for perfection and he supplies the know-how.

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you so much for such an amazing & supportive feedback, you made my day! Your progress makes me incredibly happy! 💛

[@nouaraaziane7772]

Merci encore une fois je n ai jamais vu des vidéos aussi détaillées et bien expliquées ❤❤❤❤

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you so much for support 💛

[@charlesii2570]

Muchas gracias enserio, tus videos son demasiado útiles, son métodos más profesionales y de mejor acabado qué los que yo conozco, junto a la explicación es una maravilla, agradezco igual la inclusión de otros idiomas para el audio, saludos desde Colombia ❤🎉

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you so much for the support. 💛 I have turned on the captions creation, so I hope KZbin will generate them soon.

[@markusmulder_]

This is gold! Thank you for sharing such a beautiful explanation. Makes me want to take all your courses 🤩💖

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you so much, such an inspiring comment. ❤️ I am so happy i my videos are helpful, I`ll make more 😉

[@markusmulder_]

@ thank you so much and also for your response 😊. You are the one actually inspiring me to keep trying despite not being that young anymore 🙏. The quality of your craftsmanship is what I would strive to achieve one day👏

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

@@markusmulder_ Age will not stop us from getting to perfection😉 Just keep having fun with tailoring and I`ll try to help if I can. And don`t stress yourself out if something goes not the way you planned, it happens, just practice and you'll do great! 💪🏻

[@markusmulder_]

@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 😉😊🙏

[@NadoCrowFriend]

I always find your videos extremely helpful ~ And would love if you might consider making mention of the fabric type you are using ~ for myself, it would help me to also learn about how different fabrics react to different applied sewing techniques. Thank you for sharing your outstanding skills!

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

That is a nice idea, I`ll try doing that in the next videos. So, fpr the last two videos I used the same fabric: it is grey suit cloth, 100% wool, S120 (nothing fancy) 260 g/m. The navy one I used in the Side-Adjusters video is: flannel S130, 300 g/m.

[@NadoCrowFriend]

@ Thank you for sharing this information ~ You always use excellent fabrics. I want to do that too!

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

@@NadoCrowFriend They dont have to be overly expensive, just try keeping them as natural as possible.

[@ema8877]

Minha mãe ensinou-me a costurar sem maquina de costura. Aprendi fazer as barras da forma que você está ensinando. Nem lembrava mais. Muito obrigada pela postagem do vídeo. E parabéns pelo seu lindo trabalho ❤❤❤❤

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

You mom is a true master! Thank you for your kind comment. 💛

[@mukariamwinga2591]

A very useful video,have never seen such craftmanship.. consider uploading a video on how to cut a trouser also...thanks

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you! I am so happy the videos are useful! For the full info on measuremnttaking, drafting & cutting instructions DM me & or send a letter.

[@rish7078]

Oh! I love you. Your channel is very helpful and I hope you continue like this. It would be great if the other videos had tradition

[@lwashington1189]

I’d be remiss if I didn’t highlight something you mentioned in the video that was both insightful and incredibly helpful regarding cuffs. Around the 1:05 mark, you explained the importance of keeping the hem at a 90-degree angle, and I believe this detail is so crucial. It’s a point I’ve never seen addressed in any other cuff tutorial, yet it makes a tremendous difference. Overlooking this can result in the dimple often seen in cuffs, which diminishes that clean, professional finish. Thank you for sharing this invaluable tip! From start to finish, this video is hands down the best on the subject.

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Exactly! Thank you! Even if you have to taper the trousers, side & inseam don't necessarily need to be at an angle against the hem. So when you are tapering the trousers you still can keep 4-5 cm at the hem at 90 degree angle and make nice cuffs, without chalking all these angles (that I really dont like). Plus, having them stright allows you to easily change the length of the trousers or even the size of the cuffs. Thanks again for pointing this out!

[@nouaraaziane7772]

J'ai vu toutes les vidéos vos finitions sont incroyables

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you so much for such a lovely comment & for the sub 💛

[@davidh.4220]

Excellent work!

[@cn-lo3dn]

when I said about donating material my English is not always best. I mean finisher products like leather bags and hat but as well not every volunteers are comfortable with animal products so I bought a new low cost machine the one I already have is industrial a bit to heavy for more lighter material restarted sowing garment for myself and others thank you for your response c.noel canada

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Ah sorry, I get it now, it is even more admirable 💛 Getting free handmade clothes & bags that last for life is priceless!

[@mamasaidsew4843]

beautiful work and thank you for your detailed teaching.

[@andrewhesling7875]

Excellent video, which made me subscribe, like and to learn more. Thank you!!

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you! I am already working on a new video!

[@lwashington1189]

Great! video. The best way I have seen to do cuffs yet. Appreciate all your videos. Side question:: Do you foresee any videos on how to remove belt loops from pants??

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you so much, I am already working on a new big video I want to start 2025 with. 💛 Hmm, interesting request on belt loops 😉 I have made a big tutorial on making and attaching them, but I hope you have seen it already. Speaking of removing them... I don't really see the point in the video, because basically, if belt loops are attached in the most common way (which is machined into the waistline) you will have to deconstruct like 80% of the waistband to remove them. You can`t just cut them off, some bits will stay inside the seam and it will look hideous. But if the trousers are factory-made there is another issue: thick machined bartacks on beltloops that are usually made with high density stiches, so unpicking them without damaging the cloth is usally very challenging, and not always go well + it reuqries a lot of time. These are main things to be aware of, but also trouser finising may differ. Some beltloops could be just stitched on top, so some of them are easier and some are trickier. I recommend to take a pair of trousers and disassemble the waistband at the center back seam, to see its construction and how beltloops are inserted & finishied and then decide if it is worth the hussle or not. Thank you for becoming a memeber! 💛

[@lwashington1189]

@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR I will def check it out. Thanks I watched your tutorial on side adjusters (which was great) and I had the idea of removing the beltloops from my pants and putting side adjusters on them. Not sure how doable but I am going to try anyway. Your tutorials are spectacular. The best on the web.

[@lwashington1189]

@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR Thank you your reply, that was very enlightening.

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

@@lwashington1189 you are welcome, anytime! By the way, I answer your comments first, because you are a memeber, and that one of the perks. Thank you!

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

@@lwashington1189 thank you! I think after you try removing belt loops on one pair, you will quickly get how to do it effciently.

[@SAHILKHAN91972]

Thanks can you make a button fly or zip fly tutorial pls ❤

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

That is a nice idea, I`ll think about that 💛

[@cn-lo3dn]

hello from vancouver canada. I just stumble upon your site and I am so glad I did I've been sewing for many many years but I really want refine my work I only make products for myself but sometime to friend and donation usually leather to charity for their volunteer appreciation day I noticed that yours using what appear to be cold water tho you have a steam iron n as I do is it better to use cold. thank you c.noel canada

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Hi C.Noel 👋 Thank you for your kind feedback, I am so happy my videos are helpful, I'll make more 😉 It's so cool you donate pieces of material to charity. It is usually a big problem to recycle leftovers. But, getting back to your question. Yes, you are right it is an industrial steam iron, but sometimes the steam just isn't enough. For example, there are fabrics that don't really 'behave' well under steam only, so they need additional moisture & more heat. Also there are some parts of the garments that are better be pressed this way: with water, iron & wooden 'clapper' to absorb residual heat and steam. In this video I used cold water and iron to press seams open, getting the best result possible.

[@catherinaantat4475]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It helps many to grow.

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

You are welcome, helping people grow is my goal & pleasure.

[@timgidney3189]

Useful video but if your legs taper to the hem, ie are not parallel, then you should mirror image the cuffs otherwise there will be creasing inside the cuff. And allowance should be made if your fabric is thicker by tapering out the cuff by a centimetre or so.

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

This also one of the ways to do that of course, but even with taperd trousers I still prefer to keep at least 4-5 cm 90-degrees at the hem anyway, so the method works with any classical trousers.

[@lauram7678]

Another great video! Thank you so much!

[@teekue]

No heel guard? Would have loved to see at which step to best sew this in. Or do you just add it in the end?

[@KlingonPrincess]

I so enjoyed the tutorial. When you sew over the bar tack are you sewing through any layers of the cuff? Thanks in advance!

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

If I understand correctly, you mean the finishing stage, when I sew around the core. So, there are two ways: You may sew with the needle point going forward: this way you may catch some fibers of the cloth and in result a bartack will permantently stay in place, but may end up a bit uneven. In the video I am sewing with the blunt part of the the needle going forward, in order not to catch any fabric. This way the bartack will be more flexible (and easier to remove if necessary).

[@KlingonPrincess]

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR Thank you! That makes perfect sense. I'm in awe of your skill and appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

[@nouaraaziane7772]

C très bien expliqué merci

[@annegabi9646]

super, Merci à vous très inspirant

[@RezaMarz]

Thanks.

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Thank you!

[@nouaraaziane7772]

Bonsoir ILLIA s il vous plaît comment faire pour acheter vos vidéos et je précise je comprends que le français 😊 vous êtes l un des meilleurs tailleur que j ai vu sur youtube ❤

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

Hi, thank you! I have replied to your DM!

[@mosesfennel]

Button option and or stitch in the ditch method.

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

The choice is yours 😉

[@zobak-r8v]

merci pour ce tuto

[@DeIkengaConcept]

Nice one... trying hard to use the CM measurements...in the part of the world i am... We use Inches when measuring a client and sewing . So the question remains. How do I apply this method while using inches?

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

You may just use a double-sided measuring tape. But, honestly, it doesn`t really matter which system you use: just mark double width of desired cuff, add allowance for finishing about 1 inch, everything else should be clear from the video.

[@DeIkengaConcept]

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR thanks a lots... really appreciate your reply.

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

@@DeIkengaConcept you are welcome, I'll try incorporating Inches more in the next videos.

[@DeIkengaConcept]

@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR I will be glad you do because it will help us to flow effectively.....

[@silviareginadasilva8668]

Show! Obrigada! Brasil❤.

[@b.ntailorfashiondesigner]

Nice 👌

[@cristhiangarciavega5061]

Where do you buy your chalks?

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

For videos I use a pretty cheap 'Panda' chalk, because it is very contrasting. Also I use japanese Jinbutsu Chalk. I buy them online, just look them up and pick the online store that suits you the most.

[@elenashchelina1369]

❤

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

💛

[@AnasIdrise-y2e]

Spike Hindi

[@KenigJu]

❤

[@BESPOKEEDUCATOR]

💛