BEST 18" Subwoofer For The Price? (Skar SDR 18 5 Month Review)

[@afriendlyguy2004]

The imperfection on your box makes it interesting. Every angle of it shows a curve here and there, which give it character. I also know how much work you put in to make it airtight. Make the best with what you have.

[@John-r8o2x]

I own this sub too

[@John-r8o2x]

I own this sub

[@vegapower454]

You should get a db meter to see how loud it goes. I thought about building 2 duel 18 inch boxes for my home theater.

[@WaveImages]

I'm definitely planning to get a db meter in the future. The room my 18 is in isn't the biggest room ever, but it can get pretty damn loud in it so I'm wondering what it'll meter.

[@your.local.stoner]

@@WaveImages i have a 12' SDR and it hits about 110db in my bedroom but that's at around 800 watts in a prefab, i think you have a better chance at hitting close too the same if not a higher db even with lower watts in your custom box.

[@2010hes]

Can someone please do a video on how to use and hook up a cardio sub to a home theater

[@shotta6]

Hey bro can i show u my set up i wanna know what can i do to in prove it

[@ChrisRichardson-v6c]

Did you build the box yourself ?

[@WaveImages]

Yes the box was all built by me. Planning at some point to build a beefer enclosure, but this has been working great.

[@ChrisRichardson-v6c]

@@WaveImages and you said 5 cubes @ 22hz ?

[@WaveImages]

Yea that's exactly it.

[@Munakas-wq3gp]

@@WaveImages Next time you might want to use a flat surface where you mount the driver, looks like you have a half inch deep groove in the front face.

[@lizjohnson3956]

Spend $70 more and get the Stereo Integrity ht v3 at $199 it will absolutely blow away any 18 at $200 and lower.

[@WaveImages]

I actually have been thinking of getting this subwoofer or getting a second Skar SDR 18.

[@lizjohnson3956]

It’s the only at that price🤣

[@Munakas-wq3gp]

So much incorrect information in this video lol. The power handling rating is the maximum continuous power the speaker can handle, not how big an amplifier should be used. The actual power handling is determined by the enclosure volume and tuning, and Xmax damage threshold. Very rarely subs get burned by raw power, they either bottom out mechanically or get driven with distorted signal which reduces cone movement but increases drive current.

[@WaveImages]

What I actually meant is I should get a more powerful amplifier to power it. And what other information was incorrect?

[@Munakas-wq3gp]

@@WaveImages You do not need get a more powerful amp to power it if you already have a 650w amp. First of all the speaker is rated at 600W rms to begin with. Secondly the speaker produces about 90db at 2.83 volts so with 650 watts to 4ohm you'll be listening at hearing damaging volumes at full power. However that's not very high sensitivity as you claimed, many 18" drivers reach up to 96db for 1 watt. The driver has a Vas of 200 liters and a QTS of 0.76 which implies it has a pretty weak motor and it's designed for an infinite baffle or closed enclosure use, not a bass reflex like you did. This is typical for car speakers which are designed to be installed using the hat shelf or the rear seat as a baffle. The driver is definitely good for the price, I agree with you on that.

[@WaveImages]

I’m 100% not getting 650rms due to box rise and it’s not a 100% efficient amp, and I plan to get a second 18 and my amp is only 900w rms at 1 ohm so I definitely need a bigger amp. There are higher sensitivity 18’s for sure but it doesn’t change the fact that it still does good on low power.

[@Munakas-wq3gp]

@@WaveImages I disagree on your need for a bigger amp. You're most likely using somewhere between 10 and 50 watts in your listening as it is.

[@your.local.stoner]

what power supply do you use? Great work on wire work btw, it gets hard to hide indoors. 😅

[@WaveImages]

I use an EVGA 650 G3, and a 70ah car battery. Thanks for the support!