Best Cyanotype printing process

An in depth video on the process of making a Cyanotype using simple materials and techniques.
Chemicals: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
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To view my photos please head over to www.curtiskrueger.com

[@user-vo2fh4zs7t]

New to this. Loved your simple and straight to the point video, with some history at the beginning. Just the video I was looking for. Many thanks

[@photobrake]

Thanks for you comments

[@charlottebellamycreativeph9021]

Great simple to follow video and some really basic valuable information that I've missed from other tutorials - love the blue outfit by the way x

[@photobrake]

Thanks so much

[@merce414]

Great vídeo. Thank you so much

[@stephenlutz935]

Really cool video! Thanks Curtis!

[@photobrake]

Thanks Stephen.

[@dinaamiri6775]

Very well organised and clear. Thank you.

[@photobrake]

Thanks so much for your comment.

[@ebollon]

I enjoyed your instructional video, thanks! And, the kitty was a nice added bonus :)

[@photobrake]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@saft60]

Thank you, great video and also great print!!

[@photobrake]

Glad you like it!

[@angelacaires8772]

Thanks Curtis, glad I found you! Interested in exploring this more…

[@photobrake]

Hey thanks. I hope you try it out. Loads of fun.

[@iditwagner]

thank you, I had dificulty with the time exposure. Now it works!

[@photobrake]

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.

[@lisabakke9280]

That was a great tutorial. Thanks

[@photobrake]

Thanks Lisa. I appreciate that.

[@taramichelemanning8210]

Wow...Curtis, thank you so much for this video! I'm a beginner and in Photography I in college, and we are doing a cyanotype for our first assignment/project. I loved how you explained everything so clearly, and showed us everything hands-on. Beautiful work! Also your cat is adorable! ☀️💙🐈💙☀️

[@photobrake]

Thanks so much for your comments. Have fun in your class. and my cat thanks you as well.

[@cowboyyoga]

Hi Curtis! Nice video! Thank you!

[@photobrake]

My pleasure!

[@chancewoolery3702]

Thank You for taking the time to give a simple explanation of the cyanotype printing process. I love darkroom printing, but it is a whole process I just do not want to mess with anymore. I want to simplify my whole process with less gear and workflow. One or cameras, one or two film stocks, one or two printing processes, etc. and then experimenting within those parameters. Invariably, it is always about the print for me, something tangible from the intangible, not counting my minds eye. Shooting with pinhole cameras, home developing black and white film with caffenol, and printing with the cyanotype process (or other some other alternative printing process) sounds like my speed: slow and stop, lol. Starting with smaller 120 film negatives will be my first experiments because it is what I have on hand, just cute little Prussian Blue photos. Later, I can print larger negatives like you explained. Btw, your cute cat is spoiled rotten. I have two rotten ones myself. Much obliged.

[@photobrake]

Thanks so much for your kind words. Rotten cats are the best cats. LOL.

[@ulrikematter5587]

Thank you so much for sharing!

[@photobrake]

Thanks for watching!

[@MarcoDorn-xb3bc]

Try mixing your cyano type (A+B / A) with a 5% sollution of gelatine. It will cut your exposure by at least 50% (Light travels trough the emulsion, bounces backfrom the given support and exposes the emulsion from both sides). The gelatine cyano mix will stick to almost any material without any trouble. Also the cyano mux wont react with whatever is in your paper if you dont want to spend money on art papers. But the main advantages are are completly even contrast curve and you can use pigments within your gelatin! Yes…printing CYM with only two layers (shadows are cyano highlights will become your choosen pigment color / gold, silver black are super interesting too ). Be carefull with using clorine for boosting contrast and cyan density cause wet gelatin and clorin might not get along to well. But its not impossible. Toning your print with dye is now equaly easy cause dye and gelatine are very good friends. Got a job offer as a printing teacher today and thought i start practicing on the sofa! Good luck! Regarding pigments mixed with gelatin + plus cyano … high density of pigments of course extendes your exposure.

[@geoffallan2622]

Adding gelatin will let you print on glass

[@abby._]

According to Wikipedia, a woman, Mary Somerville, originally invented the process but presented her findings to Sir John Herschel!

[@photobrake]

Hey thanks for that comment. I'll check that out.

[@TheStockwell]

Wrong. Somerville invented the ANTHOTYPE process.

[@sirmski9373]

Yamer on bro. It was interesting.

[@photobrake]

Ha ha. Thanks for that.

[@marylynkrueger8306]

Great video son.

[@photobrake]

Thanks mom. ha ha ha

[@paolofrancescobuongiorno1973]

Ciao, vorrei chiederti se hai mai usato la cianotipia su vetro ed eventualmente la geletina e l'acido osseico. Grazie tanto e buon lavoro!

[@michaelricco81]

Thank you so much. This was the best Cyanotype instructional KZbin video I have seen. A question. Do you have any Hydrogen Peroxide recommendations. I was on Amazon and there were various selections available but they seem to have different chemical ratios.

[@photobrake]

I just use what I can pick up at Walmart. The ratio really isn't that important.

[@studiojege287]

How do you know your exposure time? Is there any way to tell if the exposure is good while exposing? Or trial and error?

[@peterbonucci9661]

Do the cyanotypes have a course surface texture? The old ammonia process blueprints had that. A company I worked at used blueprints until the 90s.

[@photobrake]

Not really course. Of course it depends on the type of paper you use. Thanks for the question.

[@olneyoriginals7674]

Cool process! Can you reuse that negative or does the chemical break it down?

[@photobrake]

The negative is used over and over as it never gets wet.

[@Foxglove963]

olney. Make sure the light sensitive coating is completely dry before laying on the neg. Use a heavy glass pane to ensure complete contact negative to paper. Do not use any clips. Use a water bath to develop and wash the print. Do not forcefully spray it as seen in this video as this can abrade the image.

[@nilac11]

Great, what printer do you use for the negative?

[@photobrake]

At the present time I am using the Canon pro 4000. It can print up to 44" wide.

[@triciabennetts6578]

Beautiful and fascinating! Thankyou for sharing 🙂 How difficult is it to create a negative image from a digital image, before laser printing on the acetate? TIA 🙂

[@photobrake]

It's not that difficult. I may do a video about that part of the process.

[@RandyPollock]

@@photobrake Still waiting for that video on making a negative from a digital image 🙂

[@curtiskrueger1889]

@@RandyPollock I will get that going. I've been traveling and trying to finish up a few videos. Hopefully, I'll be able to get to it next week.

[@ThorirLenvik]

@@photobrake it's easy with silver Iodide emulsion. You can still buy, I think. I don't like digital copies of drawings and photos. But, it's my problem!

[@julieduncan1996]

People need to tape the edges of the glass to avoid cutting the crap out of their hands. Also, do you use negative images rather than just a copy on acetate?

[@photobrake]

Yes. Tape will do fine. I actually sand the edges, with a fine wet sandpaper. I forgot about that technique. Yes I print from a negative. I've been wanting to do that video, so maybe that will be next. Thanks for your comments.

[@gocarrgo]

Wonderful video, what printer do you have? Many thanks!

[@photobrake]

I have a couple of them. The main printer I use is the Canon Pro 4000. It prints up to 44" wide. Thanks for your question.

[@gocarrgo]

thank you for your reply, do you have a recommendation for just black and white printer to use for transparencies to make cyanotypes?@@photobrake

[@photobrake]

I would have to know your price range. Basically I would look for a printer that uses Photo black a mat black, as well as a grey, that will give you a better range@@gocarrgo

[@gocarrgo]

Ok good to know....between $500 -1500 more or less, would I be looking for an inkjet or laser printer? Many thanks for your time and expertise. @@photobrake

[@dcavillon]

I don’t understand the name of the liquid you put for darking the blue?

[@spirouzi]

hydrogen peroxide

[@user-bo2mh3dl1d]

Could you use the images in epixy resin work

[@photobrake]

I have done just that.

[@curtkel]

Do you have any tips on getting large prints to dry flat?

[@photobrake]

I usually don't have much curl using a heavy weight watercolor paper. If I do get some curl I place it under a masonite board and place some books on it overnight. Thanks for the question.

[@perryroach987]

Can you print from a positive? Beautiful work!

[@photobrake]

You can, but the image would then be a negative. Could look pretty cool though.

[@perryroach987]

Thank you for the quick reply@@photobrake

[@Autorange888]

When the correct exposure in sunlight is reached the print will look charcoal grey.

[@photobrake]

A good tip. Thanks

[@KalpanaImaginationArtandEngPoe]

Cd you let me know wh teansparent paper you use for the image thx

[@photobrake]

What size of printer do you have?

[@douggottlieb]

Great video! Is this stuff toxic and needing ventilation or okay indoors? And do you need to fix or does water stop development? Do they fade? Thanks!

[@photobrake]

Cyanotype is one of the safest printing processes out there. It could be an irritant and I always wear gloves. I always err on the side of caution when it comes to mixing it up. Water is what stops the development. Oxygen can make the blue darker. I enhance that by bathing the print in a solution of hydrogen peroxide solution and water. As far as archival, there are prints from the 1800''s that are still very vibrant although these are in a museum. Cheers

[@douggottlieb]

@@photobrake thank you!!!!!

[@jjualvare]

How do you preserve your cyanotype print from long term exposure to artificial light or sunlight? Thanks.

[@photobrake]

It's pretty much archival although I wouldn't hang it in direct sunlight.

[@ThorirLenvik]

Is it ammonium ferri citrate (yellow-brown) and potassium ferricyanide (red), or ferrocyanide (yellow), that's the chemicals that are used?

[@photobrake]

Truly I just use the premix version. I get it from B&H photo.

[@sarahhill4844]

When did you start doing this?

[@photobrake]

Funny you should ask...Covid 19 brought about this. I decided to spend the "lockdown" learning something new, yet old...So glad I did. Thanks for your question.

[@isabellastoakes]

anybody ever done this process on canvas? i've been trying to nail it down wondering if there's any tips floating

[@photobrake]

I am sure it would work. Thanks for the comment

[@isabellastoakes]

what happens if I don't rinse it

[@photobrake]

It will continue to process. Rinsing it sets the print from development.

[@MarkHickford]

You seem to have lost all audio from 5 minutes into the video :(

[@photobrake]

Thanks for your comments. Try loading it again. I am not sure what the problem was.The audio seems to have corrected itself.

[@MarkHickford]

@@photobrake I'll have a look tomorrow. It's still mute after the 5 minute mark for me at the moment. The re-upload might still be processing.

[@MarkHickford]

All good this time.