Best Drill Bits For Metal, Stainless Steel and Hardened Steel

Best Drill Bits For Metal, Stainless Steel and Hardened Steel. Having a hard time finding the correct drill bit for the kind of steel you need to drill. You have found the right video to watch. I will explain it all from HSS (high speed steel), Cobalt Drill Bit, Carbide Drill Bit, Massonry Drill Bit, Locksmith Drill Bit.
The Ultimate Guide To Drill Bits, Cobalt, HSS, Carbide, How to chose the best drill bit for Stainless steel, Hardened steel,
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Comments and questions are encouraged but please be respectful.
www.tricountylocksmithservice.com
This is The Ultimate Guide To Drill Bits. Putting HSS (High Speed Steel), Cobalt, Carbide tipped and solid Carbide drill bits to the test. Yes It's long but Compared to the Year + it took to gather the information it's not that bad. So Sit Back and learn or keep wasting your money on junk, trash bits that keep breaking and not drilling through what you want them to.
RHC - Rockwell Hardness C
HSS Drill Bits - Work well up to the 50ish RHC
Drill - Mild steel, Some tool steel, Some Spring Steel
No Drill - Hard Plate, Anti Drill Plate, 404c Stainless Steel
Pro - Good in Hand Drills and most drilling applications
Con - Has limitations in hardened steels
Cobalt - Works up to 58ish RHC
Drill - Mild Steel, Some Spring Steel, Some Tool Steel
No Drill - Hard Plate, Anti Drill Plate, 440C Stainless Steel
Pro - Good for hand drills and most drilling applications
Con - Has limits with hardened steel
Carbide Tipped - Will drill almost any steel, Hard, Stainless or Mild.
Pro - Drills all steel
Con- Blunt tip requires extreme pressure to produce cuttings. Drill bit is hard to start on all steels.
Diamond Coated Drill Bit - Cuts on most steels(Not Hard Plate) just not for long.
Pro - Will Drill most steels (Not Hard Plate)
Con - Cutting stops quickly after diamond grit has warn off, Then behaves like HSS bit
Solid Carbide Drill Bit - Cuts all steels.
Pro - Sharpened points wont "walk" like carbide tipped bit. Cuts all steel
Con - Sharp tip and fine edges can chip easily and ruin drill bit. Not for hand drills. Expensive!
For more information go to www.Tricountylocksmithservice.com
Drill bits purchased from www.drillbitwarehouse.com Discount Code - lockman1

[@ArtVanAuggie]

Machining 101 is workholding. 101.1 is center punching. Diamond and carbide bits need to be run fast. Instead of websites, try the Machinery's Handbook.

[@georgecurtis6463]

For what i used to in my work and now in my home shop, I use cobalt bits. Never been disappointed. I do have std hss bits also and use those on other stuff that softer than hard steel. The sets I have are not your normal big box store sets.

[@williampittenger67]

Thank you for the video. Before I watched it, I didn't know to use heavy duty grease, and I melted a titanium and cobalt bits. I'm using titanium a bit slower now, but I have found cobalt to be better, as you have demonstrated. Thanks.

[@waynewinton]

+William Pittenger good to here. TTP- Cut It paste works best as well kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJWzfmSieKmMfKs

[@NOBOX7]

hello friend i know burning a hole isnt exactly drilling a hole but i have a oxyhydrogen torch that i use to drill holes threw stainless steel with , up to 3 mm thick. the needle like high pressure flame can punch threw 1.5mm SS in just under a second. it is realy good for drill SS tubing without a drill press

[@d.j.9961]

Thank you! Upon fixing a car for a loved one, I learned very quickly that all drill bits are not created the same! The only bits that I found locally, within a store was cobalt bits unless I could properly sharpen carbide tipped masonry bits so, I chose Irwin cobalt bits. My 20 some mile away/ local Royal King sold both single's & sets of Irwin cobalt drill bits & just the other day, I went to purchase more of them to add to my collection, I advance of a much needed repair (drilling seized suspension bolts holding on my rear coil springs housed by it's own control arm & also the rear shocks-mounted separately but, all corresponding bolts will need cut out & drilled & replaced, I am assuming because, I know the shock bolts are seized!) In wanting to ensure that I have everything I need, My local Royal King has always had the Irwin cobalt bits that I have needed until now!!!! When investigating drill bit's & what to purchase, It is confusing! You should sharpen those carbide masonry bits for best effectiveness!!!! I will be subscribing & re-watching at such a time when I haven't been up all night working!

[@johnhall8455]

Excellent video, I know it’s basically a comparison test, but there are so many other considerations to take into account. Drill speed, tip angles etc. Also when using a single bit on all the materials it will become less sharp at each stage….It’s pretty much common sense that the hardest material..carbide, came out on top. But then your also dealing with financial considerations…Carbide bits can cost more than than the object you intend drilling..

[@salvadorebertolone]

Lol o geeze. It was like nascar, i was waiting for something exciting to happen. Theres some information here for the layperson, but for people that do this on a regular basis theres nothing new here. Quick tip, as soon a drill bit stops being able to cut a material, it almost always has had the cutting edge ruined and will need to be sharpened. Even import basic hss drills as long as they come from a real industrial supplier are usually pretty good for most things. Ill pilot most materials with a high cobalt content split point drill, as they are tougher and need to chisel. Even fairly tough and hard materials can be drilled with standard hss easily as long as they have a pilot because they dont need to "cold chisel" the clearance for the web which is what takes the most energy to make a hole.

[@dennisarterburn18]

one word.......OUTSTANDING

[@waynewinton]

+Dennis Arterburn Thanks!

[@waynewinton]

Best Drill Bits For Metal, Stainless Steel and Hardened Steel. Having a hard time finding the correct drill bit for the kind of steel you need to drill. You have found the right video to watch. I will explain it all from HSS (high speed steel), Cobalt Drill Bit, Carbide Drill Bit, Massonry Drill Bit, Locksmith Drill Bit. The Ultimate Guide To Drill Bits, Cobalt, HSS, Carbide, How to chose the best drill bit for Stainless steel, Hardened steel, Please Click The Subscribe Button Below! Comments and questions are encouraged but please be respectful. www.tricountylocksmithservice.com This is The Ultimate Guide To Drill Bits. Putting HSS (High Speed Steel), Cobalt, Carbide tipped and solid Carbide drill bits to the test. Yes It's long but Compared to the Year + it took to gather the information it's not that bad. So Sit Back and learn or keep wasting your money on junk, trash bits that keep breaking and not drilling through what you want them to. RHC - Rockwell Hardness C HSS Drill Bits - Work well up to the 50ish RHC Drill - Mild steel, Some tool steel, Some Spring Steel No Drill - Hard Plate, Anti Drill Plate, 404c Stainless Steel Pro - Good in Hand Drills and most drilling applications Con - Has limitations in hardened steels Cobalt - Works up to 58ish RHC Drill - Mild Steel, Some Spring Steel, Some Tool Steel No Drill - Hard Plate, Anti Drill Plate, 440C Stainless Steel Pro - Good for hand drills and most drilling applications Con - Has limits with hardened steel Carbide Tipped - Will drill almost any steel, Hard, Stainless or Mild. Pro - Drills all steel Con- Blunt tip requires extreme pressure to produce cuttings. Drill bit is hard to start on all steels. Diamond Coated Drill Bit - Cuts on most steels(Not Hard Plate) just not for long. Pro - Will Drill most steels (Not Hard Plate) Con - Cutting stops quickly after diamond grit has warn off, Then behaves like HSS bit Solid Carbide Drill Bit - Cuts all steels. Pro - Sharpened points wont "walk" like carbide tipped bit. Cuts all steel Con - Sharp tip and fine edges can chip easily and ruin drill bit. Not for hand drills. Expensive! For more information go to www.Tricountylocksmithservice.com Drill bits purchased from www.drillbitwarehouse.com Discount Code - lockman1

[@waynewinton]

carbide is carbide, Tungsten carbide is the same as any other carbide mentioned in this video. It's all the same

[@alaorjr9515]

Excellent topic, what is your opinion about hi-moly drills?

[@waynewinton]

look up the ultimate guide to drill bits here on YT. There great for hand drills as they are more forgiving

[@exit9mastertec7]

For heavy used for automotive mechanics daily garage broken bolts there are these various automotive grades that I have tried and all failed I really appreciate your video just really curios for hand held drills the bits for automotive, really now I understand a little better

[@roscomcfarland204]

For anyone wondering what the $300 bits are called or who they’re made by, they’re made by Viper. I use the exact same ones in my shop at work and I can attest to the quality of the bits and the lifetime warranty. If you brake one, send it to em and they send you a new one. No questions asked. Very very very good company. If you get the chance to buy a set 100% worth it

[@jamesacker7343]

You can use a diamond 4" thin smooth wheel to sharpen carbide bits and lathe bits. I got mine from harbor Freight for cutting masonry. Just mount it on jour bench grinder next to the stone wheel and it works for me.

[@yevbol276]

This guy is great

[@NOBOX7]

strange , this isnt my drill bit and yet i cringe at the site of it boring into a american made steel punch, kinda like when you see another man get kicked in the balls ,it kinda makes you wanna cover your own drill bit

[@michelnadon9296]

diamond coated dremel disk cut ceramic tiles and also sharpen wood chisel beautifully. Masonry bits are fairly cheap . if they can be sharpen with a diamond coated dremel disk one can cut the hardest steel at a low cost without the wobbling

[@aldo06231950]

Try mount your workpiece on a vice to begin with instead of holding it with a vice grip.. The initial contact of cutting edge wil chatter and dull your cutting edge from the beginning if not securely mounted. also understanding feeds and speeds will help.

[@MindTurd]

thank you drill chuck norris. what would we do without you.

[@jason4547]

How dare you bring your common sense into this equation. I have a severely retarded brother who chucks up all of his hss bits with his front teeth.

[@douglasswilson2392]

I think you had a good idea in approaching this from a material hardness standpoint but some other posters have already described many flaws in your methods of testing. Not covered in other posts is a fundamental error your are making in your methodology. The WEB of the drill bit (the center portion that does not have a cutting edge) is not cutting the material. Your basically burning through the tested material at the center. Although I have a very complete CNC machine shop at home, one of the basic lessons I was taught 50 years ago is that you need to drill a pilot hole slighly larger than the WEB on the next drill. Not only does it become a guide for the next drill, it allows the drill to use its cutting edges to cleanly cut the hole. Without the pilot hole you are going to dull the drill very quickly as shown in your video. That is why the drill stopped part way down in the cut. The center of the bit is just trying to PUSH itself through the material. Take a look at the end of twist drills and you can see the width necessary to select a proper pilot drill size. Also, the RPM was way too fast for the size of drill you were using. Take a look at the chips. That's what we do with lathes and mills. That blue/black color of the chips tells you that the cut was made way too fast. Nevertheless, I credit you for making a video for the DIY crowd. A little more tidy with cleanup between drilling would be nice.

[@ShanonT12]

OH wait, you answered my questions at min. 45 I think.

[@bernardonevarez9323]

Wayne your journey to unravel the chaos and enigma of drill bits to metal was an excellent practical scientific approach at shinning a light of clarity to the appropriate application of each type of drill bit metal versus the types of samples. Excellent job regardless of the when your instructional video was done. A true timeless classic. Good job.

[@Eagles0690]

You know, I used to have an engineer friend that I thought was probably one of the smartest men I’d ever known. I mean you ask him a question and he didn’t just spout something at you, like most no it all’s. He thought and then spoke and he made sense. He could figure stuff out...but you know the greatest lesson that I ever learned from him? One day we were talking about something and he looked over at me (we were riding down the road) , and said something I have never forgot. He said, “you know, I learn things from you every day”. Well I thought, damn. Lesson learned, you’re never too damn smart that you can’t learn from anyone else!

[@johnb1121]

This was the Randomest post ever

[@linmal2242]

@funnyman1972 Sounds like someone else has had that same experience in the past in a different land!

[@ynotitsfun990]

Bet you were the friend that he learned what the fuck not to do ....for sure you taught him alot

[@craigerickson1910]

@@ynotitsfun990 Seems you get your jollies putting other folks down. The point that started this whole topic was "we can all learn from each other". What I learned from you is some people are just really good at being jerks.

[@lovespurpleflowers]

YNOT!! itsFUN you are a foolish person, stop trolling good, productive folks!

[@jimc5439]

Is it possible that your drill bit might have been getting a bit dull after a few demonstrations on ever harder steel?

[@rogerlloyd9413]

I agree; not really a comparative demonstration.

[@petascalecomputing]

Thank you so much!!

[@shumesy]

Whenever using a diamond cutting tool steer clear of ferrous metals. The pressure and heat will cause the pure carbon (diamond) to work its way into the steels lattice and carbeurize the steel you are trying to cut! This will result in you rapidly losing material off your expensive cutting tool as the diamond disappears into the steel, and also is a very inefficient cut, as you are actively hardening the area you wish to cut.

[@MarcoTrillion]

Thanks 👍

[@kudzayichimbodza]

Learnt a lot - for my needs i think i need to get the solid cobalt bits

[@99motorbreath]

Dudeham, drilling into steel that drill was going WAY too fast. I learned a long time ago heavy pressure low speed for drilling steel .Find a sweet combination of the two when u see the metal start to peel out stay with that speed/ pressure.

[@wheatboarder]

this has honestly shattered a bad habit of mine, I always thought to keep that momentum and let her eat, and chip chip chip little away fast rather than making deeper harder cuts. probably why I like burning bits... My boss buys them by the box so I've never learned otherwise. any more Input appreciated, but I'm sure the rest of this video will fill me in

[@wheatboarder]

3 years ago you changed my life today, thank you sir

[@measure2ice712]

There are specific speeds and feeds for all types of drill bits with a variety of different tip angles. There is no such thing as slow speed wins every time. Learn the tools and operate them at the speed they were designed to. Work smarter not slower.

[@CMAenergy]

I'm not smart nor am I a dummy but probably close to it, (A dummy that is) I watch you drilling an obviously I learned something in your first 11 minutes, You must slow down your drilling speed to drill through any of these hardened steels, otherwise you will keep getting that squeal an burn out the drill bits, They have different speeds for different steels. Now you tell me now what it is I learned? And I learned why does this guy not use a simple stand off to prevent any piece of steel from being grabbed an spinning out of control possibly sheering off a finger or a hand.

[@davidmagazzi6727]

that was a serious demonstration. cheers

[@waynewinton]

+David Magazzi THX!

[@MrHeavychevy86]

Put up more drilling videos. I just want to watch you drill through all kinds of hard stuff.

[@deeeeeeps]

I'll sum it up. Cobalt for 99% of jobs. If you have to drill anything super hard you need carbide, if carbide doesn't work diamonds will cut anything.

[@waynewinton]

No. Diamonds gum up in soft material. cobalt drill about 75% of steels. carbide drills anything but carbide or diamond.

[@dalewebb1228]

David Sanders I had a little different take away , like I'm supposed to use the Cobol bits for most jobs but when I'm dealing with really hard steel use the solid carbide with sharp edge or get a hole started with a bit and then finish using a concrete/masonry bit , concrete bits are great too for hardened steel but you can't start a hole with one because it would walk around , Sound right Wayne?

[@hk07666]

Wow, just saved me 48 minutes. Thanks!

[@quabledistocficklepo3597]

DAVID SANDERS, AN INACCURATE SUMMARY. GET IT RIGHT.

[@quabledistocficklepo3597]

David Sanders, If you can afford solid carbide. Also, it's very brittle.

[@bretbroome2118]

Grease is not adequate lubricant for drilling metals. One of the purposes of a Lubricant, is to keep the bit cool. You need a consistent flow of lubricant when drilling metal. Also the Lowe viscosity of a good lubricant, floods the chips out of the hole, and away from the contact point. Grease doesn’t do a lot of that.

[@srolesen]

I thought there was supposed to be water suspended in the grease to prevent work-hardening and to drill with smaller diameter first on less brittle hard steels??? Also diamond is carbon which is soluble in steel (like high carbon steel lol) so using it to drill steel seems really strange

[@scottxfactoraudio8799]

Hello, I didn't watch your entire video. "Just the first four minutes"! Because that was enough to tell me several things. "And I was a bit short on time"! Anyway, You stated that, "No-one has broken down what drill bits work best with different materials", -->"Scientifically". And also that you had talked to several, "Machinists" all touting "H.S.S." as the only bit type you'll ever need. I GET your frustration! But, I can tell you where "ALL of the answers you are looking for"- are. The answers you seek and much, much more? Are in the, "Machinists Handbook"! BUT, you need one that is "Pre-20th edition"! "There is a (Used), 19th edition for sale on (Amazon), for $20 right now, (I just checked)". "But $150 for a decent one is closer to what most (19th ed.), actually go for". The new ones that are, (21st ed.), are about $90, but unless you wish to learn, (Fortran 12, CAD, CNC, and etc. etc...) I believe you would want the 19th ed. instead. It is a "Tome", of nearly 2000 pages of very densely packed information. You could actually learn, (completely) how to become a machinist AND mechanical engineer, (book-wise) by studying this one handbook! As far as the, "Machinist's" you have talked too? So many assume that (title) now but are really just what, "WE" always called- "Machine Operaters". I am not trying to offend anyone. "But", That is simply the truth. It took eight years of actually being a "Journeyman Machinist" before I was "allowed" to even begin apprenticing as an, "Tool and Die maker". And that is the absolute TOP of that trade. This I became over forty years ago. And I always kept, "And Needed", my "Machinist's Handbook" near at hand to help! If I am any judge of character at all? "Then, You" Wayne, Need one of these 19th ed., handbooks! You will be truly amazed....'Trust Me" on this one... And then I'll bet your video's will become legendary....

[@dank7108]

AWESOME VIDEO ! MORE IMPORTANT THE INFO YOUR SHARING . THANKS A BUNCH ! Now I can drill this bolt out of my engine , I hope.

[@waynewinton]

you most certainly can if you choose the right bit!

[@boldcanada1302]

Sorry I am Deaf and i want to know what did you use to paint that stuff on metal and drill bits? Grease or what?

[@scotty362100]

There a so many things wrong with this "scientific" video, just where do you begin?!? You dull a HSS drill bit on a chisel in the very opening segment, then proceed to use the same drill bit on spring steel, hard plate, and a spade bit, etc. Once the bit is dulled, exactly what are you trying to show proceeding to drill other materials with the same bit??? You want proof, the cobalt bit drilled the chisel, spring steel, then you did the grade 8 bolt, and it had a tougher time (on the grade 8 bolt) than the standard HSS bit! Your order of operations were different!!! When you got to the "masonry carbide" bit, you changed the cutting fluid, to get through the chisel when your "paste" didn't work. Stopped watching at that point. The ONLY thing your "scientific" video on drilling vs materials, was that #1- You use wayyyy to much pressure when drilling anything, as evidenced by your table deflection. #2- You do not have an understanding of cutting lubricant vs coolant. #3- You have ZERO understanding about how to conduct "scientific" experiments, that have an ounce of validity. #4- You don't understand the concept of work holding, and its effects on the cutting edges of tools to cut metals! #5- You apparently don't have a grasp on calculating cutting spm for tool bits when cutting metals, and the effect heat has on the material being cut, and the tool used to cut said material. This video gets a ZERO.

[@eukaryon]

Thanks Wayne, this helped my decision what bits to use drilling C50 hardened steel. Yeah, you could have used a vise and started the hole to prevent walking, but that was not the point. It compared various bits and types steel work pieces, and demonstrated how masonry bits walk like drunks if a dimple is not started. Perhaps I am unlucky but I always clamp the work to the table. Invariably the drill catches the work and everything goes flying around in big dramatic circles.

[@deel2783]

Very helpful. thank you.

[@TheTrtmrt100]

Vete useful. Thanks for effort

[@madscientistshusta]

What a mess, jesus i worked in a metal shop milling all day and the thing is...every job has a bit made for it! There is no perfect bit there is only the right tool for the right job.

[@peterowens290]

Your sloppy workpiece clamp procedures tend to discredit the whole video. Also with the damned machine rumble it's hard to hear clearly what you are saying.

[@michaelbonade4667]

there's a great video of a Russian guy drilling a hole through a 3/16 in thick fixed blade handle with a drill press and a Bosch masonry bit...it got through, but the tip "wings" were completely destroyed in the process.........i just picked up a 29 pc. set made of M2 and sold by CLE-LINE. made in the USA and the company is a subset of the Cleveland brand......anyone have any experience with these?.....

[@southjerseysound7340]

I havent used the drill bits but the few Cle Line tools I have are pretty nice and I've been really happy so far.

[@michaelbonade4667]

if im in a pinch and don't have any good bits on hand ..i usually start a hole with any self tapping screws i might have....saves me a lot of time and grief

[@gambitgaming4573]

what would be the best drill bits to drill a hole through .15 inch titanium? I've heard carbide is the best for titanium. what drill bits and what types?

[@Someguy35167]

What an enlightening and thorough review of drill bits. Nobody seems to know all this info you have touched upon. I see all these people drilling lug studs and some succeed and some dont but they dont even know what metal their drill bit is made of. Thanks for your explanation! Great job!

[@keithd5181]

Hi, Would you recommend using a Cobalt M42 bit for drilling a tiny 3mm hole through a electric motors hardened steel output shaft?

[@gilzr473]

Great video thanks for sharing

[@maxheadflow]

While hardness is a indicator of possible drill performance, you also need to look at the ability of drill to handle heat and still keep an edge. You say Stainless has a high hardness but they are a dozens of SS alloys.. Some are pretty soft. You need to understand speeds and feeds, lubricant types, coatings and other variables to under stand how drill bits work.. Rockwell hardness is not the only property to examine.

[@hiramkhackenback]

Dormer A002, job done in the main. Harder stuff A001 works well with light pressure. Just learn how to sharpen a bit properly. Bolts at 8.8 are soft. 12.9 are tough, still use a A001. Cutting angles is what it is all about, then speed, then feed rate or pressure if you like. If you are doing a lot of aluminium there are tighter spiral flutes to clear the tip quicker so can be worth getting one. Just stick with Dormer, it is easier and quicker. Oh and use a vice for goodness sake and a spray or liquid cutting oil, paste is best for external thread cutting. This video helps no one.

[@tiredrummertube]

thx for the upload Mr. Winton

[@waynewinton]

thx for watching!

[@MrWoodchuck59]

I don't know where to start. I can see that you have put a lot of time and effort into this, but is it full of misinformation and darn right dangerous practices. I'm a toolmaker with over 40 years in the shop,so let me say a few things. First off you are going to injure yourself of someone near you if you continue to drill materials without securing them. When you drilled the large plate and it picked up off of the table, I wanted to scream at you. CLAMP IT TO THE TABLE. It did that because it "grabbed" when it broke through the bottom. A part can swing around & hit you. It can break the drill & throw the part. A shattered drill can fly through the air and shrapnel can hit someone. The same thing when you drilled the bolt. Get a drill press vise, they are pretty cheap. Also when you drill a loose part, it is more likely to chatter and you will probably chip or ruin the cutting edge on your tool. Secondly look up some charts on cutting speeds. The general rule is Small drill = high RPMs. Large drills = low RPMs. Soft materials = High RPMs, Hard materials = low RPMs. There are 2 factors at work here. One is surface speed, the other is the generation of heat, which destroys the hardness of the tool. Another thing that many people don't understand is the difference between hardness & toughness. Look it up to see for yourself. A chisel is not very hard, but it is tough. Most steels & stainless steels are relatively soft until they undergo heat treatment. an excelent site to learn abote metals is the Mcmaster Carr site. Click on the link "about steel" , "about stainless steel", or "about tool steel" www.mcmaster.com/#steel/=1dh2hnf

[@alloveryetstill]

Chuck Carr this is a great comment

[@123123mike]

Chuck Carr, thanks for the good info. I'm purchasing a decent starter drill and bits for my kid. Would you have any suggestions for a decent quality, moderately priced basic set of bits capable of drilling in metal? thanks

[@jonbenson8179]

thanks to this comment, I didnt sit thru 48 min of apparent bullshit. thanks Chuck

[@jamesd5415]

@@123123mike check out drills and www.drillsandcutters.com I found them to be the best for decently priced for the quality.

[@Bodernem]

Is your speed/Feed ratio correct!? It does not look that way. I would go much slower on all though jobs with simple drillbits. If you have the hard metal type, higher speeds can be used .

[@robgrujicic5380]

Hello from Montreal Canada 🇨🇦 I’m a new subscriber love your channel learning plenty from ya. I have a question which drill bit or a good drill bit can I use for a 1/4 to half inch brass to drill holes 🕳 a drill bit that can go through Brass like butter or with ease ? Thanks for sharing your videos yr a tremendous help to me thank you ?😃❤️👊🇨🇦 oh just to mention I use only cordless 20v DeWalt tools 🧰

[@Globespy]

I'm having a real rough job trying to drill a few small holes (less than quarter inch) through one of the steel beams in my basement. It looks just like your typical steel structural beams, but maybe because the house is 15 years old and has gone through multiple heat cycles this stuff has turned into something from an asteroid. Now before you all yap that I shouldn't be drilling through this beam, I'm literally making a couple of less than quarter inch holes that you would barely see next to the size of the beam. It's half inch thick the area that I'm trying to drill into. I have a new dewalt 18A cordless drill with adjustable speed and hammer drill functionality. I also have an older plug in to the wall seriously heavy duty hammer drill (the type with big support handle for leverage) and I've tried Bosch carbide tipped, Cobalt (multiple brands) and this steel literally laughs in the face of everything that I can throw at it. I'm at a total loss and hope for some advice as the guys at home depot are just wasting my money and I'm tired of wasting gas and cash on drill bits that are dead within a minute and barely make more than a small dent in the beam. I use cutting paste. Appreciate any advice.

[@felixf5211]

Look on ebay for screw machine length drills AKA stub drills. Buy either M35 or M41 (not M42 with a hand drill). Apply a lot of pressure while drilling on the drill's slowest speed. Good luck.

[@dunstrugglin]

bolts are alloy steel and are heat treated to get the best out of them mild steel is a form of alloy steel the alloy is carbon and iron HSS cobalt added for toughness and wearing it has been around for many years it was invented by Dorman engineering I think in the 30s the highest cobalt content I have found in HSS is 10% .WE made cold chisels as a project in my apprentice years that after Hardening and tempering we could sharpen with a good quality file but but it could do the job that it was made for

[@waynewinton]

Thx!

[@billgray7914]

Contact Quality Mill Bloomington or Franklin Indiana they supply factories with bits and taps and different types of cutting tools been buying from them since 1974

[@streetglide40sw30]

Have a question what is better for the lubrication on steel for not dulling out the bit the paste or cutting oil what are the differences .

[@felixf5211]

I drill and thread steel every day. A paste can be a decent lube for drilling. I prefer a medium weight cutting fluid. Seems to cut better, more accurately, doesn't gull as much. This being said, any lube is better than none. Good luck.

[@billyjoe3309]

Insanely good video. Thank you so much!

[@johnlandis5889]

Thanks!

[@ronnewbee8071]

very intresting, could you do a video on the different types of cutting pastes

[@pamelahughes7891]

What have you got reflecting off your lens? Also, rather hard to hear you over the whir of the drill press. Note.... you should not use diamonds on steel, maybe under water, but even then they are not the best... diamonds are pure carbon and they burn and dissolve into the steel, just making it harder where it is being drilled or cut. It is better to use tungsten carbide or cubic boron nitride coated bits/saws for hardened iron/steel. Also if you are grinding/ sanding stuff... iron/steel is very tough and has a high tensile strength, even if it is not hardened, so it tends to grab onto abrasive grains, which means that even though aluminum oxide is softer than silicon carbide, silicon carbide is brittle and the grains tend to get shattered by ferrous metals so it does better in ceramics and non-ferrous metals like brass, while aluminum oxide is a very tough abrasive that stays sharper longer in ferrous metals. Also, high speed steel can cut steel that is harder than it is, since it can retain its hardness at higher temperatures than a less heat resistant steel... in other words, it can sort of burn its way through, though I don't know if HSS does as well as something like stellite (not a steel since there is no iron in it... just cobalt, with some chromium, tungsten and a touch of carbon in it) Stellite #6 is only 36-45 HRC but stays that way all the way up to about 980 degrees F and doesn't begin to melt 'til 2340-2570 °F, I've read of knife makers burning tang holes with stellite bits They said it doesn't do anything except get hotter and hotter until it suddenly punches through, but you have to have a rigid set up and high speed to do it.. Heck you might be able to burn small holes in sheet metal with hunks of tungsten welding rod.

[@waynewinton]

I can't say I agree with some of what you are saying here. I drill some of the hardest metals known in the security industry and Hss dose not drill or "burn" though them.

[@pamelahughes7891]

Wayne Winton oh agreed on that armor plate of yours... that thing is massive... but it could work on something like stainless steel sheet metal or a thin section of a knife hilt where the heat cannot conduct away fast enough. Have you tried the steel twist drills with the a carbide insert running all the way up the spirals? For larger sizes they would probably give you the bite of a solid carbide bit but at a lower price... can't imagine a half inch solid carbide bit would be very cheap

[@keskinpastane7761]

bro i will machine 4140 steel is hss drill bit is ok for me or i should buy something else what u say ?

[@babybwoy23]

very informative. might i suggest that you turn off drill press while commenting.

[@rogerlloyd9413]

Yes difficult to hear above the noise of the drill.

[@edreiss3637]

That is a masonry bit not a carbide bit. I notice everything. Why whould you drill steel with a masonry bit even though it may be carbide tipped.

[@carrie4d117]

very interesting Wayne!

[@waynewinton]

thx!

[@Thenebrosity]

😴TLDR; answer at: 41:26 Solid Carbide Drill Bit (Straight 2 Flute Bit used in video) - needs steady consistent pressure (ie. drill press) otherwise it'll break but will go through basically anything. He purchases bits from www.drillbitwarehouse.com and has a Discount Code: lockman1 He has a video specifically on this type of bit: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKC3d4CEf6d2gdE

[@royrodgers0]

Good vid!

[@waynewinton]

Thx

[@jameswalker1210]

Great educational tutorial. I commend you for your time, research, & thought that was put into this video! Extremely helpful & interesting.

[@RickSaffery]

I enjoyed watching your informative video. My recent challenge is to drill out bolts from the exhaust manifold of a 350 GMC V8. What a nightmare. I wrecked a bunch of bits. I used slow, medium and high-speed attempts. Bottom-line is that your video made me appreciate the materials science behind various steel and their respective hardness. Nice job and thanks again!

[@gladrags666]

Currently watching while drilling a wheel nut out, hurry up and get to the point 🤣

[@audiefied]

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this but you drilling thru the shank of a cobalt bit with the carbide is not a real test, you could have done it with a regular HSS bit because the shanks on bits are not hardened.

[@Boxofclocks]

I was wondering about that.

[@waynewinton]

I drilled through the tip too. Is on YT somewhere

[@waynewinton]

Mentioned many times. I drilled though hardened part too. No difference

[@martingsilva]

Thank you for your knowledge and time! Keep it up!

[@dunstrugglin]

Sharpen your masonry bit like a normal bit and you can drill hard steel I have drilled oil holes in outer bearing races and broken easy outs out with them , now you can buy solid carbide drills

[@markharris5771]

dunstrugglin I watched a John Heisz video yesterday where he did this with varying success. If I remember rightly on the occasion he failed he put it down to his own drill sharpening technique.

[@lewfrazer6734]

Do the same test with all the drill's that you have used , On flat file , Have Fun

[@waynewinton]

I did. carbide drills right through it

[@tonylawrence9157]

Long winded demonstration of incompetence. Learn before trying to teach others.

[@CMAenergy]

You probably could have drilled that punch, but instead you dulled it by turning the bit way to fast, Slow it down and you will be surprised at what HSS will drill Your trying to drill that spring after dulling the bit by turning it to fast, Drilling learn to slow the bit speed,

[@johnrhuff]

Check out Max at Drill Bit City, an small old-timer shop, amazing bits. We do production in s304, his bits last a really long time.

[@johnmettler995]

Damn, I had to pause the vid to put on my safty squints. Working without a vise? Accident waiting to happen. I'm not a safty nazi, just making an observation.

[@chris-yf4hy]

Well you learn something new watching excellent videos like this good on you for doing this it's blokes like yaself that put the hard yards in that help and learn save thanks keeping coming

[@waynewinton]

Np

[@guloguloguy]

THANKS FOR ALL OF THIS GREAT INFO!!! ..."diamond coated bits?... FYI: Don't let the tip of the "carbide" masonry bit get too hot, or else the brazing alloy holing it on to the drill shank, will fail. Is there some special type of "tap" that would work well to tap a small (#36 drill, for #6-32 tap) thru hole in a ~3/32 thick hard steel plate?!... ["SHARED" ON GAB.AI,and Xephula.com]

[@jameskrieger3331]

Very thorough investigation, I thought. Would have liked to know why you used an oil jelly at times, vs an oil liquid at other times of lubrication. What was the jelly brand? What was the liquid brand? Shouldn't you have considered water? Thought the rush to judgement was premature, not having compared the results in a more chart-like fashion. You lacked specifications for your drill bits - black oxide, titanium, cobalt; and type of bit presentation, spit or joined; and the degree of split 135 or less. This video is on track, but needs more work.

[@218philip]

Without using a correctly sharpened bit each time makes this video a joke.

[@plupkination]

In summary, drilling anything harder than mild steel is a PAIN IN THE BUTT!! I came on here to find out what would work best to drill out 2 rusted out, hardened steel studs in the back end of the catalytic converter on my car, so I can replace them and make my car quiet again, not sounding as loud as a Formula-1 Race car!! Found out nothing is really ideal for using a hand drill on these Rockwell hardness 90 studs! FUN FUN FUNNNN! LMAO!!

[@lonniechartrand]

I know this video is eight years old, an my, how things have CHANGED since then!!! The "big box" stores NO LONGER CARRY a large selection of drill bits, like they used to. I stopped at four different stores looking for a GOOD 3/4" or 25/32" bit for drilling 1/2" plate, AND FOUND NOTHING! I ended up going to a "tractor supply" (or farm goods store) and even their selection was very limited. ALL bits that I found were HSS. I could NOT find any cobalt or carbide bits in the larger sizes that I needed. As it is I have already burned up one 25/32" bit, sold under the Milwaukee brand. Now I will preface this with the following: YES, I used lubricating oil generously. YES, I had drilled the holes in steps to minimize the amount of metal to be removed at a time. 9/64", 3/16" bit, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 13/16", which all drilled OK, and finally the 25?32" that burned up. I now have $100 worth, in three bits, that I will try again. And of course they are all HSS bits as that is all I can find locally. The drill bits have cost more than anything else that I have in this project. I know retailers complain about lost sales due to online shopping, but at least you can find what you need on the internet! And my only reason right now for purchasing locally is that I am PRAYING that I can get this job done ASAP.

[@dalewebb1228]

Thanks Wayne , after all of these years I finally know what drill bits to buy , super good informational video.

[@quickstart-M51]

Your HSS bit was dull after the second item. No sense in continuing to use it.

[@1ramah]

one of the best demonstration KZbin could have for drill bits .thanks

[@waynewinton]

Thx for watching!

[@waynewinton]

Thx for watching!

[@kenday7942]

I have a couple of suggestions for you: first, if you’re going to show charts get them on video so you can put them on your video presentation instead of holding up a piece of paper. Secondly, you might want to read up a little more on types of steel and hardness. There are all kinds of alloys of steel as I’m sure you’re aware but they have specific designations A5 tool steel, for example. Also carbide IS stronger than PLAIN HSS; carbide is an alloy, usually 5%, sometimes more, which makes the steel tougher. (And there’s no such thing as a solid carbide drill bit.). Different alloys have different characteristics and they’re actually more specific than just ‘HSS’ or ‘carbide’. Also the type of drill you use should be selected for what you’re trying to drill. It’s not necessary to spend a lot of money on hard carbide drill bits if you’re just drilling wood, for example. I can go on but this is just a start. And it’s already taken up more room than a comment probably should. Also take a look at some other KZbin presentations on drillbits and hardness and such. I think you’ll get a better idea what all is going on.

[@josephjanecka5080]

Very good information for the basic machine shop person like me. I am sure there is a lot more to this type of work (like drill speeds), but your video (and your research) just took years off my research!

[@gerrylundergaard60]

Dear Wayne, before I sold cars I was a drilling consultant for the CIA. This was so painful to watch on so many levels. Your findings do not present correctly either. Please start with some basics, such as material selection and proper SFPM or surface feet per minute as found in the Machinery Handbook circa 1914. You will learn that there are different parameters and drills to successfully get the job done. Big differences from drilling wood, to Inconel, Tantalum, Hasteloy, Nitronic, MP35N, Aluminum, A Metal File,Titanium, Waspaloy, or Unobtainium. All can be drilled out. Pay attention or pay cash America!

[@kakakatana1]

Can you reharden your drill bits to make them harder. There will be less flex but heck even medium carbon steel can get pretty damn hard.

[@kenday7942]

You should securely CLAMP the work to your table when using your drill press. It can be a VERY dangerous situation and you can get hurt severely should something catch and it starts spinning. Always clamp. Also, a lot of tools are case hardened - that is the steel hardness is not the same all the way through - the outer layer is hardened but once you get past that outer layer the steel can be relatively softer. Slow your drill down when drilling hard steel so that you get shavings rather than little chips.

[@FantazzticoRendidorMaravilloso]

Hi , have you heard about clamps before?

[@waynewinton]

Yes... did you not see the vice grips?

[@FantazzticoRendidorMaravilloso]

Wayne Winton SURE vice grips , NOT clamps , ¿Have you heard about how weak and easy to loosse that grip is in vibrational envoiroments. ? You don´t like clamps don´t you? Well clamps are nice and strong friends when you need one or two extra hands. -Disculpa mi inglés- is not my language.

[@waynewinton]

***** Thank you for your concern. I hope you enjoyed the video but I do what I feel is safe and what I am comfertable with for the task at hand. Good day

[@davidedens6353]

High speed steel is a formulation 2030 years ago it was called tungsten Steel now they call it high speed steel basically it's going to be some variation of Steel with tungsten and Molly and nickel in it to make it a little bit flexible but more heat resistant so that the bits don't work hardening as quickly. Cobalt Steel is high speed steel with Cobalt added in and the purpose of the Cobalt is to further increase the heat resistance and prevent work hardening and also to make the steel chip resistant and make it so that it doesn't doll is quickly so that you can drill harder metal with the Cobalt still then you could get away with with the tungsten Steel. the biggest thing to remember about drill bits is that they are a consumable. You're going to burn them up you're going to break them you're going to wear them out you're going to have to replace them. This is a fact of life.. what you need to consider when buying these different drill bits is are you getting the appropriate amount of work IE profit out of what you're spending on each bit

[@TAO495]

Thanks, good video. I was looking for a bit to drill a hole through the front wheel axil of my lawn mower because the horseshoe clip kept coming off. Now I know what I am looking for.

[@patrickcontrades2435]

That drill press is spinning way to fast ! You will need to change out the pulley on the chuck side to a larger pulley. This will will slow the drill speed down and save the bit from excessive heat. Which is what burns all bits. Hence the term burnt out bit! Industrial steel manufacturing use drilling / milling machines that have low and high gearing built into the machine.

[@jonbottoms8988]

Solid carbide drills any steel? Nope. Try that with a red label GSA container hard plate. Why didn’t mention Mr Twister bits or strong arm bits?

[@Kokkylinks]

Mr.wayne Winston i have a question, what is the best Drill bits for using wall bloke? Is the Hammer Drill 16mm 680watss working on it?

[@waynewinton]

+om fatma I do not understand the question?

[@Kokkylinks]

+Wayne Winton i mean what types of drill bit machine can used for drilling wall cement.

[@waynewinton]

+om fatma Carbide Masonry bits should work well depending on hole size hole your trying to make. See here for large holes kzbin.info/www/bejne/iHWvpoloZdSAnKM

[@waynewinton]

+om fatma See here for small holes kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3OUfJeIpJZoedU

[@Kokkylinks]

+Wayne Winton what is the best drill bits for drilling wall cement? If i purchase the " Hammer Drill is that working properly?

[@LM-uz4pr]

HSS seems to just be a category which makes a lot of sense

[@konsheyn]

Very good content, very bad presentation. But I was not looking for nice pictures but for answers. I got them, thanks

[@stevelindsay3643]

I hate seeing good drill bits get torchured. Sharpening the bit properly, using plenty of cooling lube, and slow speed is the trick to drilling hardened steel.

[@johntollen9865]

Talking over the noise of the drill press doesn't work. I couldn't understand what you were saying.