Best motorcycle chain lube | 55 tested and why you DO need one!

[@ananthkumar19]

Best 25 minutes I have spent this week. I can't even imagine the amount of effort that has gone in to this. Great work!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks SO much! Have a great weekend, cheers, John

[@mikehoskin1674]

What did you do for the other 44 seconds.

[@gavshields83]

​@@mikehoskin1674 44 seconds?? bro you need to go back to school.....

[@mikehoskin1674]

@@gavshields83 You need to not respond to comments from a year ago where all context is lost and noone knows what the fuck you're talking about anymore.

[@2008cguzzi]

Do 80w90 is The smartest choice, ast Fortnine concluded already

[@Grahamvfr]

Glued to the screen for 24 mins, then remembered Ive got shaft drive... Fabulous test!!.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Ha - brilliant! Thanks very much, cheers, John

[@flyingklaasman]

Same here! I did have chain before and never really experimented with chain lubes. Always used Motul C2.

[@nico8587d]

And I have a belt drive.

[@InnocuousInes-pe8mk]

Did you feel shafted?

[@pg41226]

I’ve bought the 5 best lubes and tried them for a while. After a few months realising I don’t have a bike and now my wife is all sticky

[@scottboettcher]

Fantastic effort! In my 52 years of riding, and longer for bikes, I've changed/lubed/cleaned more chains than I care to recall, but I'll say this - the best chain maintenance is the one you do - and regularly. Of course your location will determine how often and thorough you should be, but I've used Honda chain cleaner and Honda chain lube for the last 20 years or so. The chain cleaner is also good for cleaning up after oil changes, etc. as well. Meant to not harm rubber, so it's safe for lots of things that need cleaning. What some folks don't realize is that not doing so prematurely wears the chain and you'll spend more money replacing it. I can tell which buddies don't do it often as they chains get loose more quickly. All this stuff is fun and only takes a few minutes. Thanks for the incredible effort on this. Ride Safe 🙏🏼

[@peteb954]

45 years of riding and I have been using sae 80/90 for at least the last 30 years. The secret is teeny, tiny amounts, and not on every link. No fling, no sticky mess around the front sprocket and excellent chain life.

[@chriswest2290]

What about a 120 viscous?

[@magnumllama400]

How to apply

[@jongreen9113]

@@magnumllama400 i apply with a smnall paint brush. I find i can apply to the outside of the chain at the rear then spin by had for 5 min or so to coat the inners and sprockets. Really helps to have a centre stand.

[@T1Cybernetic]

I've found by pure accident ;) A denture brush is the prefect size and shape for oiling your chain :)

[@alexcarrillo2227]

80/90 synthetic or mineral?

[@writestuffmedia]

I'm biased because I work for Bike Social, but anyway - this stuff is pure gold. John is meticulous and precise, entertaining and fact-tastic. I've bought stuff based on his reviews, and I'll be buying XCP Pro lube based on this. Bravo 👏

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks so much Si! Cheers, John

[@EngJarvo]

The FEC-king has spoken. I too shall be using XCP. Out of interest Simon, what do you use to clean the chain? John - absolutely fantastic work, I'd consider this as industry standard testing.

[@circuitbreaker8222]

А где IPONE смазка?

[@colinculverwell325]

I have a Scottoiler on my 600 Fazer. Fitted to the bike from new. When i was working it was used as a daily rider covering 1000 miles a month in all weathers. My first chain (OE) lasted 54,000 miles. Its still on its second and showing 74,000+ now. Ive see a lot of negative comments about Scottoilers making a mess but this is usually because owners dont adjust them properly. You do get a bit of fling on the wheel ( no more than a light misting) but this is easy to clean off with some WD40 and a cloth. If you have oil on your tyre its adjusted wrong.

[@airheadzradioadventures]

Honestly, I thought 25 minutes on a chain lube video?! Was bored so I clicked on it anyway. I feel like I’ve been through a master class on lubrication and give a heartfelt thanks for what took weeks and weeks of clinical quality control, experimentation, and inspection…. Earned a subscription!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks so much! Cheers, John

[@marklevy9]

Great post. Have been using gear oil for a long time and never had issues. I keep a paint brush in a jar of oil and give the chain a quick brush over after each ride - literally takes seconds and means don’t have to clean the chain very often.

[@kierenmoore3236]

I won’t be buying Motul C2 again ... well-overpriced garbage, according to these tests ...

[@maskedavenger2578]

In my owners handbook Honda recommend using 90 grade gear oil .Fancy chain lubes are there to con bikers that have more money than sense .

[@maskedavenger2578]

@Click Bait Stink or not ,it’s the best stuff for coating chains ,that’s why motorcycle manufactures & all good genuine workshop motorcycle manuals recommend it’s use on final drive chains .

[@marklevy9]

@Click Bait really? Never noticed.

[@Unfunny_Username_389]

@Click Bait no

[@85waspnest]

I love tests like this, well done. After using 6 different aerosol chain lubes I found Wurth High Performance. Road grit doesn't stick and it's good on dry Summer roads, not as good in Winter which I suspect is why Wurth also produce a chain wax. My favourite for the last 4 years is EP 90 gear oil which, contrary to your results, doesn't fling when used sparingly in the places it needs to be with as much residue wiped off as possible with a rag. I then use the oily rag to coat the outside links for rust protection. For cleaning....paraffin.

[@FlyingPhysicist]

Thanks for this. I've used 80w90 gear oil to lubricate first an O-ring chain and more recently a high-quality non-ring chain on my CG125. For £5/litre that lasted me nearly 5yrs of daily commuting. Can't argue with that value, however good the others are.

[@juicy9592]

Yeah gearoil is king

[@johnw9499]

Really useful, thanks! Regarding Scottoiler, I've had one on my Blackbird fir 21 years, done 67 thousand miles in all seasons, all weather's and have only just fitted my third chain. That's an average of over 33k per chain on what is a powerful, heavy bike. I'd say it more than paid for itself. Yes, it flings a bit if you forget to turn it down when the weather is warm; but once you get to know it, it's easily manageable.

[@Rdgoosmicp]

What a huge amount of work, thanks for putting in that effort for us.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks for watching! Cheers, John

[@EfficientMan]

My chains last forever, I have a motorcycle from 2005, done 145,000 miles (230,000 klm) and I have changed chain three times. Using the bike all year with all weather and go from UK to Italy every year for the last 11 eleven years. So it involves city riding, motorway riding, country roads, dry, wet, hot and cold, everything. I apply gear oil with a brush, I don't mind the mess it causes. I used spray for a while, what I don't like about these is that they are not visible, I don't know if the chain is still lubricated after rain. Because here is the secret fellas, after every rain riding you need to apply gear oil, it washes off with rain. It is pain in the ass but man up and just do it after every rain either you like it or not. It's common in my travels that it rains, I stop to lube the chain, after two hours I get into rain again and have to stop to lube again with the brush. You need the stop anyway for stretching... It involves some swearing but it is what it is. The main enemy is WEATHER. Components inside the engine like cam chain, oil pump chain never need replacement, because they are protected from weather constantly lubed. Recently I started to use the Motul paste when travelling, with high speed on motorway is better to use something pastey like this as it doesn't fling easily. Thus using gear oil in the city (most of the time) and the paste on motorway. I use the brush of the paste tube so I don't have to carry an extra brush ;-) Gear oil in a mini 100ml container that closes securely and also in a zip bag, you just need a few drops on the brush. However I admit I am getting fed up (and older) with applying oil after every rain so I am about to make my own auto lube system inspired by Scottoiler.

[@christian7b262]

Absolutely. My chain oiler does it all for me, including additional oiling after riding in the rain: It has a sensor. If you don't mind soldering the kit and the bigger initial effort to get the system calibrated then you may be interested in the McCoi oiler. It is a German project and most of the documentation is available in German. Which should be possible to circumvent using automatic translators. Most chain oiler manufacturers recommend sticky chainsaw oil, I've always used blue Scottoil or hypoid gear oil instead. Chain has now 48k on it, still runs fine and has little wear. That oiler gets me 10k km out of 100ml of oil in dry conditions, in the wet it would be roughly a quarter of it. Not only is gear oil incredibly cheap - used in such a sparse way it also reduces friction significantly, thus saving fuel and it causes little mess.

[@spiroskaltsoukalas9692]

I use Cobrra Nemo 2 oiler and I am extremely happy.Very cheap and perfect 👌

[@officialslowey]

For someone who rides in the Scottish Highlands all the time, where grit and salt remain on the roads well into the summer months, this is such a helpful test. I've been using XCP Professional for 3yrs now and haven't tried other lubes - so it's good to see XCP gets a decent rating. No matter how much attention I give to a chain, they always end up looking shabby after 500 miles. The EOM fasteners take a real beating too, despite a frequent ACF-50 treatment. I'm gradually replacing them with pro-bolt titanium fasteners. 10/10 for effort and dedication, John. Thank you.

[@xcpprofessional]

Don't forget to give XCP Rust Blocker or XCP Rust Blocker CLEAR COAT a go ;-) Check out John's previous work kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXPKd2NtfpyHh68

[@officialslowey]

@@xcpprofessional I use XCP Rust Blocker on the underside of the pickup and the tow bar, which are both areas that suffer badly from rust. Not sure I'd use it on the bike, because it's very thick. I'll give your clear coat product a try though. Thanks.

[@xcpprofessional]

@@officialslowey Pop in and see us the next time you're passing Dunbar!

[@ReferenceFidelityComponents]

For years I used paraffin to clean my chain, and after drying, used hypoid EP90 gear oil. Cheap and lasted well and really kept the chain in tip top condition. No fancy chain lube needed, just an old fashioned oil can and oily rag to remove excess. I always use a quality DID chain too

[@magnumllama400]

Why paraffin to clean and how?

[@vegaspony]

​@@magnumllama400it's safe on the o rings, cleans just as well or better than anything else, and is super cheap.

[@johntaylor9104]

My last cb500x had done 56,000kms, chain and sprokets still in good condition. Just a quick wipe with an oiled rag and then reaply some left over oil. Takes 2 min and costs zero, never really understood why people fork out for expensive chain lube 😮

[@WhatDennisDoes]

​​@@magnumllama400I know this is old but for future visitors who didn't watch the whole video, in the US we call it kerosene. (paraffin = kerosene)

[@shremich4583]

@magnumllama400 i was confused too Paraffin in german is paraffin wax ie for candles Petroleum in german is paraffin oil ie for oil lamps Kerosin in german is aircraft fuel ie for aeroplanes

[@JohnDoe-xr5is]

As a beginner, I used Maxima. But it seemed a bit expensive. I switched to 80-90w gear oil. Yes, it flings off easily. So I've learned to wipe off vigorously. And it's REALLY less expensive.

[@tonymontana897]

Yep. Gear oil for the smarter bunch.

[@2008cguzzi]

Exactly

[@paulog7411]

Did the opposite, used gear oil and and chain lubes, but the amount of time and resources do clean all the oil around the bike was not working for me... Now I use Maxima and love how clean it is all the time

[@jiankhan]

Gear oil is the manufacturer's recommendation for chain. Always was, always will.

[@highphysics3617]

Wow! Just what I need. A lovely Pom with knowledge,and no irritating background racket. My new Yamaha Grizzly "creaks" just before it stops. I was going mental thinking it was brakes sticking.This is the 4th quad I've owned,and never had this problem,but,we have had a horrid winter with non stop rain,and, heaps of disgusting MUD. Accidentally found your video,and, sat,open mouthed,and felt soooo dumb. Brilliant,John,absolutely brilliant. Great detail! Thank you sooo much. 1st day of Spring {Southern Hem} for us. Clean up day....Come on Summer! Awrabest,Allison

[@GearShifter925]

55 .... That's INSANE numbers... Man ... This video is just amazing, UNIQUE and HELPFUL .... to all RIDERS like us .... !!!!! RECENTLY i installed 2nd CHAINS AND SPROCKETS on my YAMAHA 250cc motorcycle. ( If i adds STOCKS one than it would be 3RD numbers of chains ). I neglected alot earlier BUT after this 2nd timed installed CHAINS AND SPROKETS... I REALISED my mistakes and Now onwards.. I would try to Maintain and care it ALOT. THANK YOU...Bro.. 😄👍🏻

[@zedddddful]

You are probably the only guy I'd trust doing tests like these usually it's people trying to flog a sponsors stuff and you buy it and it's crap nice work John 👏

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks very much! That's really good of you. Have a great weekend, cheers, John

[@georgiosbitsidis6579]

Sincere congratulations for such an epic effort! I use Wurth High Performance Dry for many years. No problem with wear or rust (then again I live in Greece where there is not a lot of humidity). The best thing about it is that it does not fling at all!!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks very much! Cheers, John

[@LotusExige350]

Truly amazing. Love these type of reviews. You don't get enough credit for the time and energy you put in John. Great stuff.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks - that's really kind! Cheers, John

[@Nomad-Drifter]

The amount of work put into this is colossal!!! Thanks you for another straight to the point fact based video full of statistics to back it and clear graphs while remaining completely unbiased. best of all it’s BRITISH 🇬🇧🍻. Thank you!

[@mattyg4k233]

I've recently started using 80W90 after using a variety of other spray can style lubes. I made this change after removing the front sprocket cover as the gunk accumulation kept on flowing down the engine case and side stand. With the 80W90 I'll generously lather the chain with an old toothbrush, let it sit for a while and rotate the wheel. Then I remove any excess with an old oily towel, this leaves the faces of the chain 'dry' but they're slick to the touch. Yes the fling from the rollers is bad, but this is easily cleaned from the wheel after the first ride with some WD40 on a rag. What I find best about the 80W90 gear oil is that it very easy to clean, there is little need for special products to clean the chain. So for the weekend or evening rider, I feel that the basics may just be the best. And lets face it, the majority of us tuck our bikes up in the garage or shed where they get to dry out or will receive a good clean after a wet ride. With the general maintenance that a bike requires, there is very little opportunity for corrosion to take hold?

[@dirtygarageguy]

I totally approve lol

[@mattyg4k233]

@@dirtygarageguy thanks Matt 🤘

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Gear oil's cheap, you know it's going to offer good wear protection, and as you say - it's a doddle to tidy up. There is the fling issue, but if you're going to keep on top of cleaning the bike (or just wiping the wheel down) it shouldn't be a concern. Of course, getting thrown clear reduces its corrosion protection, but if you don't mind reapplying it regularly (it's not that much of a chore), it works. Cheers, John

[@gregorbabic7664]

No need for cleaning your chain when you use gear oil and just take the 5 minutes to apply, brush, and wipe. Chain looks great, rollers get the high pressure wear protection and it’s dirt cheap. Also while it does fling, it doesn’t make a sticky mess and wipes easy while offering some rust protection on the parts that got coated by it. ;). Keep it simple. Gear oil! PS. I use a small 1” wide paint brush to apply and scrub the chain which works well and is gentle on the seals.

[@magnumllama400]

Why use wd40 to clean? Shouldn't you use soap or alcohol?

[@peterbigblock]

I’ve been using Maxima Chain Wax for years on Harley Sportster, Suzuki SV650, and Triumph Speed Triple. Spray it on sparingly and let it set up overnight, it works brilliantly and I get easily 12,000 miles out of a chain. Great analysis, amazing work.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks very much! Cheers, John

[@Kai-ze2rb]

since you are riding Harley. You could use the 20w50 engine oil as well, as it has the same specs as the 80w90 gear oil. Different numbers, equal characteristics

[@pavanmuthanna2166]

Outstanding work, thank you. Personally, I paint gear gear oil onto my chain with a one inch paintbrush, after cleaning it off with kerosene and drying it. For me, it's the best balance of protection vs. effort, and I get an up-close inspection of the chain as a bonus.

[@linepulse]

Just to say I signed up to bike social just off the back of these KZbin videos and exclusively used all the content to up my knowledge in the biker world. Never rode a bike in my life and decided to do a CBT and buy a new bike. It's amazing and the learning curve is incredible. What a great video!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

That's fantastic, thanks so much! Enjoy yourself, and keep in touch! Cheers, John

[@Mtthwpez]

Heh, I think I will stick with my Scottoiler system then. One refill bottle lasts thousands of miles, and also reduces the chain adjustments to almost zero. Thanks for your hard work and the amount of effort you put in to these tests, John!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

@Matt Perry Thanks very much! Cheers, John

[@reverendhoover]

I also use a Scottoiler and agree with what you say.

[@Sladep123]

Agree. I have a Toturo auto oiler on my V-Strom 1050XT and the chain almost never needs adjusting.

[@lauriebloggs8391]

Have you tried a Tutoro oiler? Cheap, simple and effective.@@seankirk333

[@markpearce5793]

I've been using the Wurth dry lube for a couple of years now. I find it lubricates well and doesn't make any mess on the rear wheel. What I have found is that over winter though it's not good for corrosion resistance. So I think I'm going to use it in the warmer months and use a better corrosion resistant lube when the weather takes a turn for the worse. Invaluable info. Great job John.

[@c138599]

Been using Maxima on VFR750 since it came to Aus in mid 90s. (Still riding this bike.) Your results are consistent with my experience. I get in excess of 20000km out of a chain. Now using it on Duc V4S - will be interesting to see how it goes wear-wise with the much greater power. One thing I learned: the more frequent, the better. I used to lube every 500km but now I own the Duc I lube after every (most) fuel refills. Seems to help in avoiding stiff links.

[@harrykramer7479]

I use mineral gear oil 80W90. The good thing about oil is that it cleans your chain very well, too!

[@projectshow9948]

My grandfather used engine oil to lube the chain , my father is using engine oil, and now i am using engine oil for the chain ... 70 years of using engine oil and for what i have seen and heard , is the best and cheap.

[@Stevens007one]

When I bought a new to me used bike about 2 years ago and after a couple of months when it needed tires..I had my local shop check it over thoroughly and replace and repair what was needed.. which was very little except for basic maintenance.... oil & filter, radiator flush & refill, brake system check & rebleed, new pads, air filter, plugs, new tires also just a new chain (medium to high-end) it did not need sprockets... the mechanic also included (which I was charged) a small can of "Maxima Chain Wax" and said it was the best stuff and to lube the chain as close to every 500 miles ..but if I go over don't sweat it.. and also to clean it when it gets dirty and adjust for slack when necessary .... and low and behold.... the Maxima Chain Wax did very well in your excellent chain lube evaluation... I think I will stay with it

[@bennettsbikesocial]

It's important to give it time to properly set off, but yes - I found it very good. Cheers, John

[@paulseminara2483]

Not sure if anyone noted this, but the weakness of MOST gear oils? They SCHSTINK! The smell in the garage can be a bit much. Sulfur EP has an aroma. For me I favor a more sticky lube winter/wet and a non-tacky lube summer months. Cool that you tested so many, OTOH missed several from the USA side of the pond.

[@syedwaseem421]

one of the best comparison ever made on KZbin

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks very much! Cheers, John

[@ferociousfrankie]

The definitive chain lube guide, thanks for all of your work and efforts. It is much appreciated.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks so much - that's really kind! Cheers, John

[@paulocarreiro5855]

Wait a second! You do this on your free time?! I thought this was your day job. Outstanding! As for the lubricants, since I use Motorex Adventure in the Summer, and Racing, in the Winter, and they performed pretty well, I'll stick (see what I did here?) with them.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Not all of it - I've been working on this video for a few days this week, and bulk parts of the test were done in 'office hours', but these kinds of things are so involved I have to fit them around the 'normal' work or they take over, and I don't want the people I work with thinking all I do is play around in the shed! Cheers, John

[@paulocarreiro5855]

@@bennettsbikesocial [Edited] I understand. Once again, thank you very much!

[@GrimYak]

Tried a lot of lubes but ultimately went back to SAE 90 gear oil. The trick is not to overapply.

[@MissMan666]

same here, used all sorts of sprays, went back to SAE 80W90 gear oil. As you said, tiny amounts, wipe good and there really is hardly any fling on rim or whatnot. Gear oil is cheap and it's been the best i tried out.

[@alexcarrillo2227]

​@@MissMan666hello, question 80/90 syntethic or mineral?

[@Quazi1966]

Great effort, interesting outcome. I've been applying gear oil first with a sewing machine oiler, then overspray with Wurth chain wax for the last 30 years, my chains have always lasted beyond 15k without any issues what-so-ever. I tend not to run them much more than that, but my chosen method works well for me.

[@ahungryzygote]

I do the same, gear oil then spray (I use maxima) in my head it seems like it'd "seal" the oil to the chain

[@grumpy_cat1337]

Your chains would have lasted 15k if you'd just keep them clean and adjusted.

[@andyorange7666]

Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to produce it. I'll be 'sticking' with Wurth as I have for years, for road and track, really glad it made to to the finals. There's literally no mess but it's good to know it's doing its job after such a thorough test. Thanks again.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks for watching! Cheers, John

[@brianmartindale2221]

Getting back into motorcycing and this helps determine what I use. For my area (CO front range), I imagine dry lubes are best, though I used to use gear oil in the Pacific NW when I lived there. I'm giving the Maxima a try on your recommendation. Thanks!

[@phillee2814]

It seems that my choice from the early 1980s when I was dispatch riding of a Scottoiler filled with EP90 gear oil and adjusted to just about keep the chain shiny was a pretty good one. I arrived at it by trial and error, as I was initially going through a chain a week (average, depending on weather) with a range of spray lubes, and ending up, once I had the above setup, at about 6 weeks on each chain (8 chains for the final year), in all cases using a set of sprockets twice, deburring and turning them over between chains (to wear the other side of each tooth). I can't think of anything harder on all maintenance than dispatch riding in all weathers for road motorcycling, and an added bonus with the Scottoiler was that I never had to clean the chain, and only lightly wipe off the fling from other parts - and it did wipe off easily, without any solvent. I just used to turn it up a touch in wet weather and back down again in the dry. As I always did that, I can't say for sure if it made a difference. That was on the old vacuum version. I have no experience with the later electronic one. Chains were always replaced on the adjuster mark - not sure what percentage of elongation that was, but it was about 5mm of adjustment from the day after fitting (1st day always moved a bit as the initial grease got squeezed around) - 2 notches of the alignment marks on the swingarm ends. Earlier than some would do it, but when you don't know from one weekend (when you get a chance to do maintenance) to the next if the intervening week will bring 5k miles, a good precaution. I was averaging 1,600 miles a week, but there was wide variation in that. Oh, and the final figure was on a plain chain, the initial figure was on an o-ring chain, which was another saving. Yeah, I may have got twice the distance out of o-ring chain, but the additional cost did not justify it from a business perspective - I always did maintenance at weekends anyway, and a chain swap is no biggie when you are going over the bike anyway. That was a couple of years (92 weeks on the Z650) of experience of just about the harshest road use a chain can realistically be put through, and this testing does largely bear out my experience. That was all (after the first 6 weeks, when I wore out a CB400N) on one Z650, which then got stolen with 148 thousand miles on it - I bet they thought it was only 48k, but it wasn't in bad condition, as I had kept up with maintenance, although the paintwork was a bit scruffy and it had started to need one top-up between oil changes. But sooner or later the threads which you need to use repeatedly for maintenance will wear out, and not all can be helicoiled. So they probably got what they deserved - the police reckoned it was taken to order, as the job was fast and thorough, and it was alarmed. Only a cut right through link in two pieces from the (very) heavy chain was left at the scene. If anyone knows someone who got hold of a suspiciously cheap Z650 about that time, give them a kick in the nuts for me, please. And don't forget the steel toecaps, and don't get caught. I actually couldn't get hold of a replacement Z650 for a while even after the insurance paid out (too late for my job - an interim cheap CX650 died far too fast and left me bikeless, and no, it wasn't the infamous cam chain problem, as the 650 had all the modifications to cure that - it just ended up drinking oil through every available orifice - piston wear, valve seals, and probably a number of other areas, and when I looked into it EVERYTHING had excessive wear and play) so I ended up assembling another Z650 from breakers yard parts, which went on to give another long service life in much less strenuous conditions of commuting and leisure use. So that was using oils in the intended way (constant replenishment) instead of a single application as in this set of tests. Of course, I had full records (for tax) back then, so could be pretty sure of accuracy, but those are long gone now, the victim of some house move or another. Were my physical condition ever to be good enough for me to ride again I'd kill for another Z650, and would certainly fit a Scottoiler. Sadly, that is a distant hope.

[@nickcutler7759]

I’ve been using Maxima Chain Wax in Australia and my chain always looks great! And their SC1 product is my favourite for keeping rest of the bike looking new 👍

[@MotoXplor]

Me too with the Maxima Chain Wax. Need to let it set before riding, but it works really well.

[@loumencken9644]

After watching this interesting video, I'm going back to Maxima Chain Wax. I was relieved it scored well, because it is one of the few brands in the video that is widely available at motorcycle shops here in the US (not including generic stuff like gear oil of course).

[@gymmatrix5033]

I use exactly the same. I also highly regard the SC1 spray for keeping plastic like new.

[@griff1709]

i dont know how to feel about maxima chain wax personally as it still gets quite dirty only its a pain in the ass to clean off plus the rollers get a bit sticky and don't readily roll lol which doesn't quite feel right. Resists water though

[@GarettBates]

Excellent info, been using Maxum chain wax for 20 years on dirt bikes, great stuff and the dirt and sand don't stick!

[@ricardolourizela5961]

In Ryan's video the Maxima fails quite badly in the splatter and grit test (meaning it flings like crazy and sand sticks to it like the proverbial sh** on Velcro). How can your test yield such different results?

[@maciejb2169]

good question

[@wade4699]

I have found maxima to be the only chain lube not the fling itself everywhere

[@grumpy_cat1337]

Maybe Ryan didn't let it sit for some time. That would explain the fling and grit stickiness.

[@YAMAHATDUBCLUB]

I've been using Maxima for years on both road / dirt and dualsport motorcycles! Massive congrats to the in-depth video you've put together!!!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks! All the best, John

[@alexappleby8677]

Nice work, and a much better O ring penetration test than F9, I'll be continuing to use paraffin to clean my chain. I tried a bunch of these (through a summer) and found Wurth Dry Lube to work the best on my 400mile per week commute. Sadly it was awful in the winter, too sticky after repeated rain riding and the resulting grinding paste did for my DID in no time. In the end I resorted to the Tutoro Chain Oiler, and I'm so glad I did. So much easier to fit than a Scotoiler and no fussy controls cluttering your bars either, would highly recommend to any high mileage bikers. But for the weather averse weekend warriors it's probably overkill, just stick to an application of gear oil and a quick wipe when you get home!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Brilliant, thanks! All the best, John

[@rayshobbyfarm.1019]

Can"t imagine having a chain now. Had them on my first few fun bikes, but doing 400 km's a week these days ( 250 miles home-work-home) I have a Honda with a Shaft-drive. Seeing videos like this make me wonder: would I really do the maintance once to twice a week?? Every saturday a half hour chain cleaning/lubing while I have a million other things to do in the weekend. But its hard to find a decent (and reasonable priced) bike today with a shaft drive.

[@bailey-cj2pl]

After years of trying out lubes, here's my 'cake and eat it' formula. Gear oil is the cheapest and best solution for a number of reasons. However, it flings like crazy and makes cleaning a pain. Muc-off all weather chain lube is terrible, ends up behaving like glue and stiffening the chain up, then frequently needs re-applying, and on and so forth, therefore using more of their product and bringing in revenue for them. Also it does fling eventually and boy have you got a mess to clean up then!! So, all you do is mix gear oil and Muc-off all weather together, to make the perfect lube, let it gas off for 24hr or more, then it is applied from an oil can, drop by drop. I then use a small paintbrush to lightly coat the outer plates. Wipe off any surplus and... Job done. This lasts a very long time and cleaning is easy with a cleaner of your choice (i use GT85). I have experimented with different ratios but i am finding 50:50 has worked well for me.

[@sergioadriao]

Great video! I use 80W90 gear oil on semi auto lubricating system. It can make a bit mess if over applied, but after setup properly its for me the best option.

[@Sladep123]

Great job, thanks for all your hard work. I have installed a Toturo auto chain oiler on my V-Strom 1050XT and it works beautifully using Toturo's lube. We have Strom owners getting 30-40,000 miles from a chain this way. Having said that, as a life-long dirt and street rider, why do we fret and care so much whether a chain and sprockets have to be replaced at 20,000 miles vs. 40,000, when they only cost about $250 every 2-3 years or longer? Lube it, don't lube it, use whatever lube you want, the cost differential might be an extra $100 every couple years.

[@kzijen]

Great vid! Very informative and appreciate all the hard work. Ive personally been using the scottoiler for the past 3 years and 40k km in either very hot or very rainy Malaysian weather and my factory fitted chain is still in pretty good condition

[@johnschlesinger2009]

I only ride in the dry. Have used Wurth dry lube for years, it doesn't fling off at all, and is easy to clean off with paraffin and paper towels. I'm amazed at this test, and the huge amount of work you had to put in - great stuff.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks! All the best, John

[@B1ueStryk3r]

I recently switched to paraffin and gear oil. I don't mind doing it weekly as the price is so cheap, I dislike the goo build up with branded chain lube.

[@marekbojarczuk5102]

I did that change too. I clean my chain quite often anyway and I find the gear oil easier to wash off than other dedicated chain lubes

[@kodyking3090]

Isn’t there too buildup with gear oil? I feel like that would fling all over your bike

[@paulboyce8537]

Maxima Chain Wax has been my choice for over 30 years. Plus 40k km from the chain is a very good testimony from my experiences. I use kerosine to clean and I use kerosine to aid the application by wetting the chain lightly before applying the Maxima Chain Wax. This will further aid the penetration of the wax to hard to reach places. One little trick to share. It takes 15 minutes for the kerosine to vapor off and you are good to go and no excessive mess. I totally clean the chain and sprockets every 1000km. Apply more Maxima Chain Wax 300-500km and if rain even more often if needed. The wax going hard can be a bit of a problem and harder to clean but this is something that takes considerable time to build up to be a problem. Even so kerosine will soften the wax makes it lot easier to clean. As a summery this is clean way to keep the chain lubed. It stays on very well. Does it job. Best all rounder.

[@larrydillon1736]

I'll be using 80/90 gear lube. It performed the best on the tests that matter to me. I use it sparingly on a brush and see very little fling of. I don't care much about sand and corrosion resistance because I live in a dry US state. If I rode off road or rode my bike through the surf I'd feel differently. I think each user has to evaluate their local riding conditions and weigh the results accordingly.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Exactly! The 'group' tests and reviews I do are all intended to help people choose what's best for them. All the best, John

[@VioletStilettos]

I am new to the biking world and have just come to this vid from FortNine - I thought those vids were detailed - WOW! You have clearly put so much time and effort into this. I love data and knowing the science behind the why, this is amazing thank you so much for this!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks! We don't sell any products, or have any vested interest in how they do, so we're completely independent. Cheers, John

[@liammorris4851]

Brilliant John! I'll be sticking to gear oil, works well for me, easy to wipe down any fling and a litre lasts ages.

[@AlexKost-tq6bj]

Omg, LEGEND. FINALLY. THANK YOU. this literally is the ONLY video anyone should ever watch on this topic. So much bad information and advice out there. Sharing this with everyone I know who rides motos.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks so much! All the best, John

[@cpuuk]

Scottoiler: My v-strom 1000 chain went 25K (all weathers) before I got bored and replaced it anyway, who knows how much longer it might have gone ;-) I prefer the total loss systems, as any chain lube is better than no chain lube.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Ha! I love the idea of getting bored with the chain! Nice one... cheers, John

[@cpuuk]

@@bennettsbikesocial well, it was lockdown ;-)

[@jeremythomas8896]

Always used a scottoiler, not only lubes, but cleans as well.

[@Trevor_Austin]

My bike’s manufacturer recommends I oil my chain every 200 miles. This was very helpful and some of the results were very unexpected.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Cheers! John

[@fuglbird]

I got my first motorcycle in 1978, a Suzuki GT550. No O-rings or X-rings in the chain. Maintenance was easier back then. Open the split link, attach a cleaned and lubricated chain and pull the old chain off. Close the split link. Clean the dirty chain in paraffin, kerosene, petroleum whatever you call it. Place the cleaned chain in a tin with thick chain oil on the electric stove and warm it up. Leave it for a while and then hang the chain up and drip off for a night a two. Put the chain in a plastic bag ready for the next chain change. I just got a motorcycle 34 years after I got rid of the last one and I'm considering getting two old style chains because I find it much easier.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Kerosene = paraffin but neither is petroleum... Don't use petrol to clean a chain as it damages the O-rings

[@fuglbird]

@@bennettsbikesocial Petroleum is kerosene is paraffin. It's not benzin, petrol or gas whatever you call it. My post was about how much easier it is to maintain a chain without O-rings or X-rings.

[@vladalexandru5861]

Thanks for the hard work that you put in making this video and all these tests. After a lot of consideration I will be staying with the shaft drive. Altough chain drive has its advantages, shaft drive is much more convenient and hassle free. And before anyone says anything, they have become really reliable and problem free in the last years. If only they could make an enclosed chain drive that would be perfect

[@jjrider6758]

Actually they CAN make enclosed chain drives, a lot of British bikes used to have them in the 1950s and early 1960s (especially 'workhorse' models) but they didn't always fit well so many owners would take them off and fit a chain guard for more of a 'sporty' look, so many in fact that basically the manufacturers just stopped fitting them.. However, I can guarantee that if they're a good design and fitted properly they really do work, I had a MZ ETZ 250 that I bought brand new in 1989, I rode it to work all year round and in all weathers for five years or so, the chain enclosure on it was actually very effective, it was a brilliant design that sealed up perfectly so no water or grit ever got in. I never cleaned the chain, I lubed it about once a year and I probably adjusted it only two or three times, although that may have been due to the lack of power it was transmitting to the back wheel !! - When I did eventually sell the MZ it still had the factory fitted chain and sprockets (which, being East German, probably weren't the best in the first place..) and they were still in perfectly serviceable condition.. Why ADV manufacturers have never looked into an updated version of that MZ system I don't know..

[@alansmith1268]

Couldn’t agree more I often wonder why bike manufacturers don’t fit enclosed chain guards on more budget commuter style bikes, probably because of looks and extra expense as it’s a lot cheaper to just stick a useless piece of plastic over the top of the chain, I owned 3 Honda cg 125s in the 1970s and 80s and used them as a all year round commuter and workhorse they were fitted with a totally enclosed chain cover and I hardly ever had to touch the chain apart from removing the grommet ever now and again to spray the chain which never got any road crud on it and you certainly never had to worry about any oil splatter practically maintenance free…job sorted 👍

[@Chris-ye6wc]

hey i have been using s100 for years and now i see confirmation that this is a very good choice .i ride about 55,000 km with my chain,thanks for the great video. grt

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks for watching! Cheers, John

[@Gabriel-gv8jx]

Great video. Paraffine for cleaning + gear oil for lubbing = good and cheap. Only downside (maybe) is you have to do it more frequent. I personally do it once every week or two depending on how much i ride and the weather. CBR125R

[@magnumllama400]

Paraffin to clean how and where do you get it?

[@mfbfreak]

Turns out, paraffin (kerosine) is actually a bad plan. Fortnine tested it - it seeps past the O-rings and can therefore dilute the grease present in the sealed chain. I used to do it too, i did not expect it to make it past the O-rings even if it doesn't attack the material itself. But i'm gonna go for actual chain cleaner now.

[@keithkeller6509]

Excellent video and test. For my long distance machine, a Ducati V4S Multistrada, I have gone to a ScottOiler electronic X System oiler and their biodegradable, vegetable oil-based lube. I use their Scorpion oil injector which lubes both sides of the rear sprocket and chain. One fill of the oiler will last thousands of miles at the standard setting. But, the unit can be turned up to provide more lube flow if running in wet or dirty conditions. I like having the chain constantly lubed and the ScottOil is not sticky so it wipes right of with a rag. And if you have the oiler set properly, the fling off is not substantial. I measured the DID original equipment chain for stretch at 14,000 miles and it was well within spec. No measurable wear on the rear sprocket and only minor wear on the front. For my day ride bikes, I have gone to brushing the ScottOil on their chains with a disposable paint brush and recoating them when they look a bit dry.

[@xyber81]

I’ve always used Maxima and paraffin. I’ve tried Motul (very smooth and nice gear changes, hates rain) and SDoc (meh!) along with a few others, I always go back to Maxima.

[@MotoXplor]

Same with me, works great!

[@firestorm755]

Proper dedication to roll out such a huge test and video. Thank you

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks very much! All the best, John

[@aleksrodins]

Top notch video... Thanks a lot for very valuable information! I used a handful of the products tested here, and my favorites are Wurth Dry Lube and XCP chain lube and for winter Wurth Wax or WD40 Chain Wax. However XCP flings a lot, Dry lube looks insufficient and Wax looks a bit messy on the chain.... 🤔 so I take there are No perfect one! 😒 🤣

[@bennettsbikesocial]

XCP doesn't fling a lot - you just don't need to put too much on. It certainly flings a hell of a lot less than gear oil! Cheers, John

[@aleksrodins]

@@bennettsbikesocial That's what I'll try to do from now on, thanks for your advice John.

[@erjones]

Been using Wurth Dry lube or Wax for years and no issues but might have to consider XCP also now but still like the Wurth products

[@xcpprofessional]

Hope you will give us a try! :-)

[@frederikclaeyssens9201]

I used the MAxima chain wax based on another review I saw a while ago. My chain rusted quite a bit in as little as a week. Maybe I had a bad batch. I now use S100 or gear oil, whatever I happen to have. Sidenote; Most expensive lube I ever used was Castrol chain lube for O rings. My chain and sprockets where brown from rust after 2 days. Never again.

[@karlrogers5661]

My first bike was a Suzuki that the manual recommended kerosene as the cleaner. I was meticulous about cleaning/lubing/and adjusting on recommended intervals. Following recommendations I only got 6000-8000 miles out of a chain. When I started lubing every other tank of gas, cleaning with wd-40 when I cleaned the bike, and leaving the chain slack looser then spec (chains would "stretch" out of spec within 200 miles then stabilize otherwise) I started getting 16,000-20,000 miles on a chain. The interesting thing was I bought a another updated version of the same model 7 years later and the manual said to "clean with a safe chain specific cleaning product. Do not use solvents such as gasoline or kerosene."

[@Bobby-wn5yr]

Maxima chain wax always does well in these lab tests, but I find it’s only worth bothering with in the rainy season. It’s true it doesn’t attract much grime and doesn’t fling off, but it’s a right bugger to clean off and I find as soon as the wax starts drying it noticeably slows your chain’s roll. For me the main reason I’d expect most people would know that a chain lube works would be that as soon as you live a chain your wheel spins faster lol, but I find that doesn’t happen so much with chain wax. Proponents say it melts at operating speed … I don’t find that when I get home with a hot bike. It’s bloody good for winterising and faulting in the rain though.

[@PauloAmaral2U]

This is the type of content that our community needs! Props to you sir! I started with Motul C4, moved to Motorex Racing, but after this test I'll try the Maxima as fling is what I hate the most! Aside from that, I clean and lubricate my chain in 150-250km intervals and I have no complain from Motul or Motorex, aside from the fling, which, in my golden rims just don't look good.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks so much! Cheers, John

[@frankcastle5294]

Greetings from Pennsylvania Sir, and fabulous video. I have a multitude of street bikes that I ride regularly. Six are belt drive and my 1050XT and 650XT V-stroms are chain, of course. Have only ever used either straight 90W gear lube in small judicious quantities, or Maxima chain wax. The gear lube trick works surprisingly well for 500 miles or so and very easy to clean off the slop when washing the bike. The Maxima has always seemed to have been the best. Glad to see that you think the Maxima is great stuff. Makes me feel like all my chain maintenance efforts have been worth it.

[@LTVoyager]

I commend you for the effort you put into this. I’d love to see tests that actually use chains put through a variety of conditions but that would be 100X more work and more expense that you invested. I used to use gear oil, but got tired of the mess. I am now trying plain old WD40 based mainly on the results a fellow KLR650 owner obtained in real world use. Unfortunately, the link I had to his results is no longer valid and I can’t find his results, but he go something like 30,000 miles on a chain cleared and “lubed” only with WD-40. I put lube in quotes as WD-40 is not really a lubricant. Thankfully, my street bike, a K1200LT has no chain to maintain. 😁

[@grumpy_cat1337]

For the money he wasted on the WD-40, he could've just cleaned the chain with diesel fuel and replaced it sooner.

[@forEVERLASTing1]

Another excellent video. Thank you. As with some other of your videos I've watched recently, this was straight to the point, answered some questions I would have had - in an informative and unpatronising way - and was just what I needed. Had been using Motul cleaner and C2 lube but needed a new chain and sprocket after 14k miles. Bike lives outdoors and wasn't always covered, and was ridden year round, 220 motorway miles per week. Switched to kerosene and Motul C4 with the new chain. Kerosene vs Motul cleaner is a revelation! Will be moving to the S100 2.0 lube once that can is empty, as well as increasing my chain maintenance!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks so much! All the best, John

[@RE650NZGraeme]

Thanks for the highly objective tests, I have been using Tutoro Chain Oiler system, and once the fine tuning is done, it seems very easy. It leaves the chain slightly shiny all the time. (RE 650 Interceptor}, and it has worked well in the rain as well. No electronic or vacuum controls either. The oil seems the same viscosity as Scott Oiler lube. Before that I was using CRC-Tac 2,and before that ROCOL Chain Spray, both appeared very tacky like honey. No sure of penetration.

[@andrewaldridge3801]

Another endorsement for Tutoro. My OE DID chain, Suzuki SV650, is still going strong at 24,000 miles and has only been adjusted a handful of times. As you say, the system is far simpler to install than a Scottoiler as it runs independently of batteries or any other bike parts, triggered by suspension movement which means it stops running when the bike is stationary and doesn't need to be switched on and off. It is also half the price of a Scottoiler.

[@roythearcher]

I had a Scottoiler with the magnum tank on my 600 Bandit and in the three years I had it with a new chain (fitted very soon after purchase) I think I had to adjust the chain a total of 5 times over a total distance of roughly 20.000 miles ridden. They work amazingly well!

[@leonardindongo9947]

Car Wow brought me here....huge bike fan myself 🤟🥵

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks Leonard, good to see you! How did you enjoy Hicky on the M1000RR vs the F1 car?

[@leonardindongo9947]

@@bennettsbikesocial The m1000rr was awesome.... it would've caught up to the F1 car had the distance been longer 😌

[@codycouch2467]

I've settled on Dupont Chain Saver, wax based and seems very much like Bel Ray Super Clean (white residue) in the way it applies and performs. The big advantage of Dupont Chain Saver is being one quarter the price (depending on source), but drys clear with no white colour. I liked the white colour of the Bel Ray lube as a visual clue it's still there protecting the chain, even remaining after a post-ride hose-down, but this alone is not worth 4X the price of the clear drying Dupont product. I imagine both these products would perform about like the Maxima Chain Wax Lube in your tests, as ingredients , etc., appear to be so similar.

[@tucker9162]

"The hydrogen free, tetrohedral amorphous carbon coating" - tell the truth John - How many takes? Thanks for the video as always.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Ha... actually just one for that (I did script it before). It was the very final line at the end that I kept messing up! Cheers, John

[@146matt]

That chain seems good value to me.

[@leereefable]

I'm using tsubaki chain. Using scootoiler xsystem fill with 80/90 gear oil its way cheaper then the original scootoiler oil. I have good results. 25k km still no adjustments needed on my chain.

[@mattnicholas9842]

Excellent work…. Nothing at all wrong with being a geek… I’m one too. Not surprised to see XCP up there, I have been using XCP rust blocker on my bikes for years, i ride all year round and the bikes still look showroom.

[@xcpprofessional]

Thanks for your business - much appreciated :-) Hopefully you'll give the chain lubricant a go!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks for watching until the end! Cheers, John

[@necrosbowen]

been using chainsaw oil for over 20 years on my bikes with no issues, i do add graphite powder to them now as well. in the past i also used graphite spray which work very well. at present i have 20k on my tsubaki chain and barely had to adjust it

[@1991julez]

A) Hugely appreciate the amount of work this must have taken B) also appreciate the constant referral to F9 because that channel did such a good job too

[@craigmayall7513]

Excellent !! What a hell of a lot of work.Well done. I had to slow it down to 0.75 speed to understand you but man it was soooo good.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks! All the best, John

[@HaggisPower]

Unlike Fillingham, which requires at least 1.5X hurry up 😝

[@robertos4172]

I find that my chains fail in stretch before they wear at roller, or rust. I ride in relatively dry and clean environments, and have stopped lubing entirely. I have seen no measurable decrease in chain life. This has reduced maintenance and cleaning splatter however. The chain is essentially a consumable, and I would rather consume it than other things, like time.

[@virupakshawalla5734]

Ktm vid suggests cleaning with diesel-sae30 50-50 mix. Then lube with sae30. Then spray with cant remember name but some chain spray ti add water resistance . Is diesel bad for x Rings is the 2 stage thing quite good idea to get lube but give more longevity? Shop herr spray with high pressure hose diesel to clean and moto lube with it running and spraying everywhere including rear disk 😢. I want to do it myself so researching.

[@JIMWSMITH]

Firstly, Thankyou for taking the time to do these tests. I use gear oil, but its not clean to apply and drips and flings off , but works well . Iam quite impressed with the xcp product, so may give that a try , with it being easier to apply and cleaner. Its Just the price thats the killer.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

It is more costly, but then again it'll not get flung off so you need to apply it less frequently. And it's less hassle. Cheers, John

[@RRRRefuelRideRace]

Finally I got time to give it a full watch. Very informative and useful video indeed. Regular cleaning and lubing is the key factor. Lightning kersine and Motul work for me. You got my like.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Cheers! John

[@geord539]

A great review from John. On a cbr928 for 20yrs I have use paraffin to clean and a spray on wax every 500miles. Don't like the wax build up around the front sprocket or the effort to clean. On an xt700 I use a semi auto Cobrra oiler with standard 80/90 gear oil. 1/4 turn every tank fill up: 200 miles in the dry summer. 1/4 every 100 miles in wet winter. Semi auto oiler seems to work well, no wax build up, chain looks better, no issues with fling, does not pick up and hold on to road grit and dirt like the spray on chain wax.

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Thanks! All the best, John

[@SwedBear1]

I switched from gear oil to Maxima thanks to this thorough test. I found the gear oil lacking in the corrosion protection as I don't always take care of the chain after each ride. With Maxima I've had no corrosion appear and my behaviour has been consistent as far as I can tell. Price is the only negative, but easier to apply, better corrosion protection, less dirt sticking to the chain are my findings and what I prioritize. Thanks again for your contribution!!

[@HavasiP]

Used Motul Factory Line chain lube for a long time. Got tired of all the pasty stuff clogged on the chain and on the wheel so I switched to gear oil a few months ago. Very happy with it so far.

[@leewatkeys9065]

I have so many different nearly empty cans of lube it’s stupid. Thanks to your efforts I’m going XCP chain lube. I use their product for rust protection already so at least it’ll streamline my can range 😀. Good work well done 👍🏻

[@kellyoscar6413]

Great info I'll be using XCP chain lube on sports bike

[@christopherheggie1709]

Excellent presentation thanks. Disclaimer time...I've been using Maxima Chain Wax for the past twenty five odd years so I may be biased but I have also always been happy with its results. One thing I have found is that if I lube lightly but regularly, and thoroughly clean the chain with kero (yes we use the American name in Oz...) about three monthly I get markedly better chain life e.g. over 40,000km as compared with a ratty 30,000km when I rarely cleaned it!

[@bennettsbikesocial]

Brilliant, thank you!

[@ian-c.01]

I have used Wurth HP Dry Lube and it seems fine in the summer months but in Winter I use Wurth Motorcycle Chain Wax which is excellent ! As it happens I just re-ordered more today so I'll continue to use it for a while, it's also a little cheaper than your recommendations too !

[@richardoneill9179]

After 47 years of using everything..I've discovered a Dupont chain wax with nano something particals ..my chain has never run cleaner..quieter..or needed less adjustments!!

[@FatherOBlivion]

Same. Dupont Chain Saver, wax based with ceramic "self-cleaning technology". Great stuff. Phenomenal, actually. I'm surprised how great the chains look even weeks and several hundred miles after last clean/coat and can still feel the waxy coating.

[@gloriouschannel3683]

XCP. i always used s100 but after seeing this xcp cost a bit less with shipping and has awesome results.

[@bentirrell519]

This is brilliant, ive been using wurth dry lube religiously and now im thinking im going to try somthing else. Ive been using paraffin to clean my chains recently as i was fed up with spending a fortune on chain cleaner and its brilliant, with it been so cheap you can realy flood the chain to rinse the debris out. Honestly to anyone out there who has not yet tried it then get some. Thanks very much for these vids i think we all owe you a pint 👍

[@bennettsbikesocial]

I might hold you to that! Cheers, John