Best Way To Make Parts At Home - RTV Silicone

Have you ever wanted to start a home business on a budget? Here is one great way to manufacture products at home. In this video, we are making DIY RTV Silicone molds of a hang board used for rock climbing, and then making duplicates of it using polyurethane (PU).
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[@ActionBOX]

If you'd like to help make future projects like this possible please consider supporting them / us by becoming a channel member: kzbin.info/door/HrFvnP1EEEZHNam_Nk_5rQjoin/join A big thanks to those who already support the projects!

[@Ucceah]

for parts like this, you can easily add 50-80% filler to save on resin. there are plenty of options, from quartz powder or sand, to air filled micro balloons for super light castings. PS: a more tightly fitting mould frame saves a lot of material

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you, I will have to do that.

[@Ucceah]

@@ActionBOX you're welcome. there are too many options to even begin listing them, but one i'd like to mention for things like this hangboard, is aquarium gravel with just enough epoxy to evenly coat it all and bind it together.

[@m0neez]

@@Ucceah Can you link any video about the process?

[@Ucceah]

​ @m0neez for example /watch?v=KXEJN5CDxQ8 i have just searched "epoxy gravel". this method is used for flooring too. (outdoors it allows for water to drain though it, and it's very durable and non-slip.) i never did this myself, but it's not gonna take a lot of resin. maybe 5% .. 10% max by volume. a thin, even coat should be preferable, to any resin starting to pool at the bottom of the mould.

[@pieterveenders9793]

@@Ucceah Or sand? Normal climbing holds normally contain some sand as well, or at least they have some sprinkled on their surface to increase grip and texture, and sand is very inert yet dirt cheap.

[@wandersgion4989]

I appreciate how you explained even the seemingly insignificant details, like where you bought the concrete mixer. Great tutorial that’s very easy to follow.

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you, I appreciate this comment 😃.

[@nicolasgoosen5142]

This must be the most under-rated channel I've seen lately. Keep it up and you subs will grow massively!

[@ActionBOX]

Thank You 😃! We are only about 3 weeks in so hopefully we can continue to produce favourable content and grow thereafter. Glad you enjoyed, Cheers, Dave

[@BadYossa]

Totally agree with Nicolas. Look forward to seeing this channel develop 👍

[@artrock8175]

@@ActionBOX 3 weeks in and already 8.8k subs at the time I wrote this comment (7/24/2024)? Those numbers are already impressive! 👌😎👍

[@ActionBOX]

@@artrock8175 Thank you, I really appreciate that 😊

[@davidthompson9359]

@@artrock8175 2024?

[@AGeekNamedRoss]

So glad you include the mistakes too. The "gold" is in the mistakes. That's where most of the learning takes place.

[@ActionBOX]

We couldn’t agree more! We learn A LOT from our mistakes and it helps us improve each time. We’re glad you see the value as well 😎

[@luisgongod]

I appreciate you also show the "mistakes", rather than just show a Perfect run, helps to know what could go wrong and how to fix it. keep it on!

[@ActionBOX]

Our goal is to be transparent and show the entire process, success and failures. We’re all learning together! Glad you enjoyed the video 😃 Feel free to share and stay tuned for some cool content coming soon!

[@joeprince7509]

Good luck replying to every comment when you have 500K subscribers! 😂 Excited to see this channel grow, won't take long at all with the type of quality of video you're producing. Great work!

[@janeblogs324]

Ha, once people hit 50k they don't even reply to a single comment

[@barrynicholls3467]

In the past I have used the vacuum chamber which worked very well. I used a two part resin on high voltage electrical circuit boards. The resin had about about 2 hours working time in normal conditions but set in about 30min under vacuum. A couple of tips use a container about three times the size of the amount of resin, as it "grows" a lot under vacuum. Place a sheet of blue towel under the container to catch any overflows and release the vacuum slowly. If you are going to try solid moulds (metal) heat the mould before pouring in the resin as it helps the resin flow but shortens setting time. If the mould has a small opening to pour in the resin make sure that you have a hole to let the air out otherwise you can get bubbles.

[@bossladymama536]

Thank you for taking the time to explain everything in detail! 👍🏼 I'm a hands on learner who benefits from a face to face instructor in a workshop... but I feel confident enough to try this because of your teaching method. Awesome videos, alot of content creators skip the additional effort to explain so thoroughly. For example, as soon as you said mentioned a vacuum chamber I was nervous , but then you immediately elaborated: What kind you should need, how to find it, and how to use it, I felt an instant sigh of relief! I'm not sure if you have any other videos specifically, on chemicals you are familiar with/work with, what the applications are for each type, how to order/purchase and how to properly use them in the sense of product quality and safety. Thank you, keep up the great work! 🙂

[@TheNunakun]

Hey man, just wanted to let you know you're gonna blow up big by next year. Your videos are informative, relatable, and concise. I'm not much of a DIYer, but I enjoy learning just in case. Cheers, and I'll stay tuned.

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks a bunch 😃. Feel free to help me out and share with some friends. I would appreciate it 😊

[@vitorromano]

That's really cool. Thanks for sharing!

[@heirik2012]

Great video. I've used molds to make repeatable components for years and I would recommend using a mold release to extend the lifetime of the mold. Keep the videos coming!

[@ActionBOX]

Awesome, thanks for the input. I obviously didn’t do that here, and will start to use this method. Do you recommend using the spray on stuff?

[@heirik2012]

@@ActionBOX Depending on the surface finish I need, I use either brush on or spray. However, as a general rule I go with Stoner brand spray release agents, only because I've had good success with it in the past. A friend who does a lot of prop mask casting uses smooth-on spray release for thin castings but I don't have experience with that personally.

[@ActionBOX]

@@heirik2012 Awesome, Ill give it a try. thanks for the idea

[@WitherandFronst]

Great content. Clear and thorough.

[@ActionBOX]

Much appreciated!

[@maikel371]

i've been waiting for this video for like 5 years! THIS IS GOLD!

[@ActionBOX]

Glad you liked it! Don't forget to help me out and share with a friend. Cheers

[@user-ue7mw7hg7n]

Gosh darn keep producing videos like this and you're quickly becoming one of my favourite DIY YT expert

[@ActionBOX]

Wow, thanks! Will do 😃

[@jiioannidis7215]

Thank you for a very informative video, without any annoying "music". I don't know how intentional it was, but I giggled when you said "chamber [or] pot" (does one ever outgrow poop jokes?)

[@ActionBOX]

Hahaha that was definitely not intentional but I’m glad you got a laugh out of it 😂

[@vibrion121]

That piece look much like a boulder training apparatus! I used to make same type of molds (fantasy jewelry)A person that i know still make that sort of boulder handles but he mix the resin with borax (he called " load" the mixture) to save resin and produce a rough surface (and maybe reinforce traction on the piece)

[@ActionBOX]

Cool stuff. I read online that Birax has now been banned as it can cause reproductive health issues, but do you know of any other filler? Cheers

[@bottlekruiser]

Love the rolling shutter effect at 2:20ish when the pump kicks in

[@bw1532]

Wow. Great content man. That is an impressive CNC build, and thanks for being transparent on the pricing.

[@ActionBOX]

Absolutely, it’s what we value 😊. Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers.

[@mrjdainsworth]

I'm reversing this process to make a copy of an RC Hovercraft 'skirt' for a toy I had when I was younger so I can recondition it with digital everything & brushless motors for my Son to use. I'll cast something hard around the original, probably plaster then pour in the silicon. Thank you for the useful tips!

[@jameslmorehead]

Great tutorial. I could have used this years ago. My brother in law and I were making custom 10" He-man figurines. We used this same process to copy the master model. I would take a plain 10" articulated figure, and use Sculpey to sculpt the armor and other details. It would take several cycles of sculpting, then baking the figure, then doing more sculpting to get a final, fully detailed product. Once we were happy with it, we would set the figure half covered in non-hardening modeling clay with alignment pins/tabs. The whole thing would be surrounded with heavy cardboard taped in place. We would then spray a mold release on the part. After that dried, we would pour the two part RTV into the mold and de-gas it in a vacuum chamber made from an old fish tank (really thick acrylic). The rough surface was smoothed down with a torch just like you did. Once that cured, we would remove the non-hardening modeling clay, apply more mold release, pour more 2 part RTV and re-run the vacuum process. After curing, the cardboard was removed and the two molds separated. The master would be removed and put aside to make more molds. Depending on the molded item's shape, we would then carve air passages into the mold as well as an angled funnel. The mold would then get a cleaned with soap and water, dried, then coated with more mold release. To make a part, one mold half would be taped off around the outside, covering the funnel and any air passages. The mold would then be mostly filled with a 2 part either silicone or poly based resin. The resin would be allowed to start to tack off. Then, depending on the part, either a plastic or metal piece was placed into the mold and pressed into the tacky material. The air passages and funnel would be cleared out, and the second mold half would be affixed into place using tape to seal it off. The mold would then be filled completely through the funnel and placed into the vacuum chamber for degassing. The mold would stay under a slight vacuum until the resin would be mostly cured. For ease of mold release, the resin could not be allowed to be fully cured. The mold would be opened, and the item removed. This would leave us with a solid colored part. If it had a metal frame, the part would have been molded with a resin called dragon skin. Dragon skin is semi hard and very durable. The metal frame would allow the part to be moved, so parts like arms and hands could be manipulated into various positions. The plastic frames would be molded in a more traditional, but less expensive resin. The plastic would let the part have give, but great strength for parts like the torso and legs. The parts would then be hand painted, assembled, and serialized. These would sell for anywhere from $200 to $800 depending on the figure.

[@ActionBOX]

That’s awesome. Sounds like you made a 2 part mold which is more complex than our one per mold. 😊

[@starby1243]

So fast, no time wasting, just useful information. My Brain likes this channel. INSTANT SUBSCRIBE 👍

[@ActionBOX]

Welcome aboard! Thanks for the awesome comment 😃

[@xavimourelo]

very cool channel, just wait for the algorithm to do its magic and you'll grow sooo much, keep it up!

[@ActionBOX]

Fingers crossed! I appreciate the support, and if you know anything about boosting my chances with the "algorithm" feel free to share. I am still relatively new to this.

[@senfdame528]

love how you pull the safety goggles out of the package at the end of the video xD Safety third!

[@ActionBOX]

😂. I had another pair to begin with, but I guess that is a funny point to consider hahaha 😂. Good catch

[@shamorjames3055]

Bro I have never seen a video this well explained before, This is gold right here. Subscribed!

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you! 😄

[@ExcitingCreations]

Love your videos! This technique will certainly come in handy for future projects of mine! Thank you and keep it up!

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you 😊. I'm glad I could help you out. Feel free to share this with others whom are interested.

[@Gamerock82]

Brilliant. Working my way through your vids. Subscribed yesterday. So glad I did. So far your vids have been on point with some of my plans and are really helpful. Cheers.

[@ActionBOX]

We’re so glad you find our content helpful Paul! It’s our intention to provide some guidance and inspiration when it comes to building all sorts of machines and other fun things. Feel free to share with others you think would find value in our content. Stay tuned for some really cool projects coming soon! Cheers, Alan

[@synchro-dentally1965]

Thanks for the video. Hope you're in a well ventilated area.

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you, much appreciated. That is a great reminder for people. Make sure to work in a well ventilated area if you are using dangerous chemicals. Luckily I was using “low VOC” polyurethane mixtures.

[@makingaiworkforyou]

Great demo!

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks 😃

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

Mold release spray to help with demolding, plus vibrations to get rid of bubbles in resin (i just sit it on my washing machine).

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks for the tips. I never thought of the washing machine, that is a great idea.

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

@@ActionBOX I just asked a housewife ;+}

[@ActionBOX]

😆

[@charley408]

Man you build a whole bunch of cool machines!

[@ActionBOX]

Thank You 😃

[@sunriseshell]

You can use hot glue and tape on the wood form so you can reuse those pieces again.

[@gnothha6870]

Absolutely love it! Great work.

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you. Will you be using the process to make anything?

[@jimkillough8340]

Fantastic. Please keep going! I'm to old and poor to join in but that won't keep me from sharing with younger friends.

[@ActionBOX]

That’s awesome 😊. I love this comment. Please do keep sharing on other forums and friends who may be interested as it really helps our channel grow. Cheers, Dave

[@TheMadMagician87]

Interesting stuff, thanks for the video on this. Did you have to do anything in terms of mould release agents, either for the initial silicone mould or else when moulding the PU replicas later on?

[@ActionBOX]

No mold release, the silicone is a natural non stick surface. Cheers, Dave

[@imanuelbaca2468]

Just commenting to help with the algorithm this is insane good and useful info.

[@ActionBOX]

Thank You so much, You are the best.

[@StrawbyteWorkshop]

Great video. I've just got into mould making and love the results. Your channel was new to me and you've got yourself a sub.

[@ActionBOX]

That’s awesome, cheers.

[@JohnDoe-qc3bo]

What if you had a large enough vacuum chamber for the mold? You might be able to get the bubbles out that way. I am not sure how well it would work for things that need to be a precise size because the mold might temporarily stretch and cause sizing issues. I have no idea, they are just thoughts.

[@ActionBOX]

I appreciate it. Better in my opinion would be a pressure chamber to squeeze the bubbles really small before the plastic hardens. It’s also much faster to pressurize a chamber then to suck vaccine in it. Cheers

[@metmkjohn5255]

Love it...I can't wait to see what you got on the next video

[@ActionBOX]

Me neither 😉

[@edrowley1]

Really appreciate your style/presentation and want to say thanks for sharing.

[@ActionBOX]

I appreciate that! Thank you

[@yangyeshuai3686]

Dude you are the best. Videos are so clear and concise

[@shirleydeutsch2394]

Great channel! Love this Dave :)

[@ActionBOX]

Everybody loves this Dave, he is pretty awesome 😉. Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@sirseriously]

Well produced video. I think the algorithm is taking notice :)

[@ActionBOX]

Glad you think so! I am curious what about the video made you believe it is well produced. I am new to this and would love to take note. Cheers, Dave

[@sirseriously]

@@ActionBOX Most creators I see with fewer than 50k subs don't even bother to write a script and just freehand the information. Yours was obviously well thought out and scripted which made it much easier to follow and understand. The video/audio quality was also pretty good - you've obviously put a good few hours into this video which adds to the production value. The audio could be a bit better with minimal added expense, but for the stage you're at this is more than adequate.

[@ActionBOX]

@@sirseriously Wow, I really appreciate that. I definitely don't like to upload low value content for others, and will continue to work on my production quality. I appreciate you acknowledging our efforts, and look forward to your comment in our next video 😉. Cheers, Dave

[@tsponge101]

Awesome video. Very informative! I have always wanted a vacuum pump for resin moulds. The heat torch is a great tip.

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks 😊. Glad you enjoyed our video.

[@aleshkovalev]

So no mold release grease is required? Thats nice. Althou i seen approx million of silicone molding videos its never gets boring.

[@ActionBOX]

Yup. You can get away with it thanks to the fact that the silicone does not stick to the polyurethane.

[@stormand]

Using some sort of vibrating table or device may also help bring air pockets to the surface. That's what they do with concrete.

[@ActionBOX]

That’s a great idea. Would totally recommend it to anyone who can afford the setup.

[@dunichtich100]

Your channel ist suuuper good for how smal it still is. You have bright future and huge potential here on KZbin! 😊👍🏼

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you so much!! I appreciate hearing that. It gives me the desire to keep going. Cheers 😀

[@mikethompson7046]

This is awesome. Your channel is awesome. Please keep putting out content like this. And what would be awesome if you sort all the videos into playlist. Eg all videos regarding the cnc. Or all the mould and plastic injection stuff into one playlist. So when people want to do the stuff in your videos they just have to open the playlist and then they can watch all the videos they need. THANK YOU again. awesome stuff

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks for the idea! I am still new to this so I wasn't sure how I should go about using the playlists but now I know. Thanks again, and don't forget to share with friends or others who may be interested, it would help me a lot 😃. Cheers, Dave

[@robdude1969]

nice project!!!

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks! Feel free to watch our DIY CNC video to see how we created the molds in this video 😄

[@kaffeewerks9609]

Vibrating molds will help with bubbles!

[@ActionBOX]

Great Idea

[@szaborego348]

You can use a heatgun to remove bubbles while it's still liquid

[@joels7605]

Amazing. Well done, sir.

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you! Glad you liked the video. Feel free to share with others who may be interested 😃

[@WatchRichRebuildsChannel]

Great video 👍👍

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you 👍

[@mattruz9238]

This is a pretty cool technique. Thanks for sharing. Question.... have you tried using other compounds other than polyethylene. I'm looking to replace another of nylon gearing and I'm considering using this method. Any suggestions?

[@ActionBOX]

I used epoxy which worked great as well. You could try fiberglass fibers in epoxy for added reinforcement. Good luck.

[@Nercraft]

Very good video! Thanks

[@ActionBOX]

Glad you liked it!

[@philipswart105]

good day from South Africa, i enjoy your videos. I am also play with 3D printing and injection molding and silicon molding. Now i want to make a mold from resin to be used for injection molding. What will you recommend.

[@ActionBOX]

I really couldn't tell you without additional information like the heat deflection of the material, the pressure and temperature of injection, etc. But I do love your idea. You have to let me know if you succeed.

[@JanBabiuchHall]

At some point you guys should do a story time video where you talk about how you whipped together such a professional channel. Seems like you hit the ground running but I'm sure it took a lot of learning. Building your own CNC machines takes mechanical, electrical, electronic, and programming expertise. How did you learn all that? And on top of that the video production.

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks Jan, Thats a good idea. We will get to it eventually. thank you for the support and positive words 😊

[@PEOdysseus]

cool video - thanks for sharing.

[@helpmeget100subs]

Id love to automate this. I want to create something like this but for panels. I feel its tough for me to do alone.

[@ActionBOX]

Im not sure what your technical background is like, but this would be a fairly easy process to automate on your own. Feel free to give it a try at a small scale before going bigger.

[@maderightamerica3216]

How well does that hold up costanly in the sunlight? I could really enjoy making products this way. Thanks for the video.

[@ActionBOX]

From my experience it’s just fine, but long term I am not sure. It definitely depends on the specific chemical you use though. Cheers

[@theofficialczex1708]

I'm using 3D-printed molds coated in resin to cast silicone parts.

[@abdullahabd7677]

Great content. Keep up the good work.

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks, will do!

[@agentofboom]

You should borrow and replicate some shoes next :D

[@edreusser4741]

First of all, this was an excellent and very informative video. Thank you. I was surprised that you didn't need to put anything on the mold before adding the final plastic. Something to keep them from sticking together. What is the secret to preventing the mold and the material filling it from sticking together?

[@ActionBOX]

Just material properties. Polyurethane does not stick to silicone. Does that answer your question? Cheers, Dave

[@bowieinc]

Great Video!

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you

[@niteshkaloria9020]

Awesome 👌 love your videos

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you so much 😀. Feel free to share and help me out. Im really trying to grow

[@lexwill718]

clapping, bravo

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you 😃

[@BeeHiverson]

Solid vid. thumbs up!

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed watching it. Don’t forget to also hit that subscribe button - we’ve got some really cool videos coming soon 😃 Cheers, Alan

[@Rfster900]

Thanks so much. Great video; no-nonsense explanations, clear, quick, and to the point. Love your style. Would you happen to have a method to make silicone parts by any chance? (obviously a silicone mold would not work). Thanks a bunch!

[@ActionBOX]

Great Question. You could use silicone molds but you will need to use mould release (and lots of it). Otherwise it really depends on the part. Could you share pics?

[@Rfster900]

@@ActionBOX I don't know of a method to make silicone parts, but I've heard of people doing it somehow. What I have in mind is the sock that goes on the heater block of a 3D printer hotend for example (ex: ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1Q3B_mljTBKNjSZFDq6zVgVXa0/V6-Heater-Block-Fixings-Silicone-Insulation-Sock-Blue-non-Official-Heated-Block-For-V6-PT100-Hotend.jpg).

[@Rfster900]

Oops, that link doesn't work, sorry. Just google: "picture silicone sock for E3D V6".

[@ActionBOX]

@@Rfster900 Okay sweet, you can 3D print the moulds and then pour the silicone into that.

[@Rfster900]

@@ActionBOX Yes that would be a great way to do it. You mentioned that the silicone gets pretty hot while curing. Any idea what kind of temperature it can reach while trapped inside a mold? We wouldn't want the 3D printed mold to reach the glass transition temp of the material (would result in warping...). PLA Glass transition T is ~55C-60C; PETG ~85C, ABS ~100C. ABS tends to be difficult to 3D print, PLA is easiest, PETG is 2nd easiest. Any idea? Thanks a bunch!

[@cnc3-in-1]

I designed a very complicated plastic auto part in Fusion 360 (multiple curves on multiple axis and multiple parts all having to join together seamlessly) and to print it (it's 21" by 5" by 3") I have to use a CR10 5S and it takes 2 days per part (one complete kit it a right and left side so it's 4 days to print one kit). I would love to be able to make a mold and pop it out.. it needs to be UV, heat and weather resistant...so ideally, I'd like to make your injection molder... but it would need to be 10x larger. I am blown away by what you guys are doing. You must be engineers!

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you so much, sounds like you have your own set of projects on the go. We are simply motivated brothers with some engineering, Science, and Business degrees in the mix. Looking forward to your comments in our coming up videos 😃. Cheers

[@cnc3-in-1]

@@ActionBOX - How about the plans for the injection molder?? You skip over the specs and assembly portions in your videos. I mean don't get me wrong, they are still cool, I still subscribed...but it just leaves me frustrated because I don't know where to begin with some of the complicated stuff you do. I am a microbiologist with an engineering desire budding.

[@ActionBOX]

@@cnc3-in-1 Thanks for the reply! I plan on releasing a more detailed subsequent video with the Bill of Materials and step by step build of the machine.

[@ActionBOX]

@@cnc3-in-1 We will be posting plans in a future video which will include the detailed build of the machine, and a Bill of Materials. Cheers

[@wesleybanks6179]

Thank you

[@ActionBOX]

No problem 😃

[@Andrew-jx8gg]

Dude this is so amazing! I'm a ME student myself and god damn how do you know about everything and can design and make everything! I tried to find some part time manufacturing job but I still don't know much about CNC machining or any resin stuff! Gonna be following closely with your channel!

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks Andrew, I appreciate this meaningful comment. If you need help with any of it, feel free to reach out. You know where you can find us now 😜. Don't forget to share this video with other who may be interested. Im really trying to get this channel going here. Cheers.

[@pkf4124]

Going to do this to make a couple of new light fittings from two broken ones I have.

[@ActionBOX]

That’s awesome. So glad I was able to inspire 😊. Come back here when you are done and let me know how it went. Cheers, Dave

[@Mekaproyects]

very good video, it is very useful, keep it up

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you 😃

[@robsrobs3272]

Hi, does the mold also works with normal 2k epoxy resin? Tanks

[@ActionBOX]

Yes. It has all the properties of true silicone, so epoxy will not adhere to it. Cheers

[@davidthompson9359]

Great video, thank you.

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed watching :)

[@onthemudd1]

I want to use this technique to replicate stamped concrete. I'll need some type of mould release I figure. I'll let you know how it turns out... great channel 👏

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you, that would be awesome, keep us posted.

[@flatsurfaces1913]

Very interesting.

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you 😃

[@Stephen8454]

I am learning so much. Really love how your videos are made. I am going to ask a question that I ask most other channels but seldom get a response: Do you have any engineering and/or electronics books that you would recommend for those of us hobbyists that just want to learn to make stuff in their shop?

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks for your awesome comment, I love it 😍. I don’t really learn from books so I’m going to have to refer you to KZbin instead 😂. KZbin and google are all you really need to learn almost anything these days 😃. Cheers, Dave

[@TheBoweeble]

Can you share links to the silicon and resins that you use? Thanks for the great content...subscribed!

[@ActionBOX]

its from specialty resins.

[@MrBleulauneable]

I'm glad to know that the concrete mixer only cost you 3$ but a word on the price of the silicone and the resin would have been warranted since these things are so damn expensive and your video description is literally talking about "starting a home business on a budget".

[@ActionBOX]

The silicone and plastic are quite affordable. They are priced similarly to epoxy.

[@MrBleulauneable]

@@ActionBOX How much did the quantities you poured in the video cost you ?

[@RocketGary]

Hello! Did you use wax for the silicone mould?

[@ActionBOX]

No, there is no need since it is silicone and nothing will stick to it (Other than more silicone).

[@tuliopireso]

NIce video, congratulation!

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you

[@LukeAquilina]

Thank you so much for showing this process. I was just thinking today about how silicone is poured. I wish I had come across your video earlier. I filled my CNC table with silicone before putting on a Saunders plate. I just tubed it layer by layer. I don’t have a vacuum chamber so that would’ve been an additional expense, but then I would’ve been able to pour silicone so… 😂 great channel!

[@ActionBOX]

Glad it was helpful 😃. Feel free to share with others who are interested, it would help me out 😊.

[@richardthomson4693]

I dont use a vacuum chamber, that thing he says about pouring from high in a thin stream is a big and very underrated. I do modem and scenery making for wargaming and by using that technique I have never needed vacume chamber. I also do do poor to the same scale as he does

[@ActionBOX]

@@richardthomson4693 Thats awesome, thanks for backing up this method. Its great for anyone who doesn't own a vacuum chamber.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Awesome! Now I just have to come up with a project to use this on! I might have one in mind...

[@ActionBOX]

Sweet. What is it?

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

@@ActionBOX a custom water jacket to turn the ubiquitous E3D V6 heatsink from air cooled, to water cooled

[@ActionBOX]

@@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany ooo cool. I see what you mean.

[@wouterjanssens]

Hi, I love your projects! Any idea on the materials cost of the mold and polyurethane pieces?

[@ActionBOX]

Mold was around $400 and pieces were about $50

[@gingergarlic84]

This video is super informative. Thank you for sharing all the info with us. I would like to make a driving instructor roof top sign. The ones that are on top of the pizza delivery vehicles or driving instructor vehicles. What material should I use for that? I know the silicone mold would be the same process for the 1st part I’m good, but the second part where you used the polyurethane resin. Can I use the same? Or do I have to use something different? The sign will be on top of the car and will be vulnerable to weather conditions (cold hot rain and snow) kindly suggest ?? Thanks in advance

[@grougrouhh1727]

thank you for the usefull infos

[@ActionBOX]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ibnbaqar5092]

Hi, thank you for sharing your experience. I want to make kitchen related item like silicone/plastic spoons, could you please let me know what sort of material do i need to start doing this at home?

[@ActionBOX]

Hi, unfortunately I don’t know what materials would be food safe, plus if you don’t mix properly you could have toxic lumps of raw material in there too. I have never done this before.

[@ibnbaqar5092]

@@ActionBOX thank you

[@molnez]

I think it would be better to use a slower reacting resin and activator when making those huge parts. Because the reaction is exothermic big parts will set super fast because of all the heat produced.

[@ActionBOX]

You are 100% correct. I did purchase resin for 15 minute work time, but I guess that does not hold true when you mix as large of a quantity as I did. Hope you enjoyed the video. Do you use this resin for anything?

[@molnez]

@@ActionBOX Actually I haven't used it myself yet, but I'm really interested in the topic. I do have plans to make my own industrial looking sim-joysticks and peripherals and I think resin casting is the perfect way to make the plastic parts, especially if I'm gonna make a few of them. I really liked the video and I was surprised how well the blow torch method worked on the surface bubbles :)

[@ActionBOX]

@@molnez To be honest with you that was my first time ever using the blow torch so I was also super surprised by how well it worked 😂. Glad my content could be of use to you. Don't forget to help me out by sharing with at least one person or group who may be interested 😃. Looking forward to your comments in my next videos to come soon.

[@TMFXLLC]

Mix your batch in a container that'll fit into the vacuum chamber, don't make a habit of pouring a batch directly into the pot. Be aware and leave about 1/2 the container empty to create room to rise in the vacuum pot. That's also wildly too much rubber, 1/2" thick is plenty for most applications. Since that's easily over $100 worth of rubber it's ideal to use corrugated plastic for retaining walls using the corrugation to your advantage to make it easy to shape the wall to fit about 1/2" off the part. Use hot melt and add gussets on the outside to support it against hydraulic pressure. Finally, if you can use water against your pattern without damaging it, pour water in to 1/2" over the highest point of the pattern, then pour it out and measure to calculate the volume of rubber necessary. Mold release isn't necessary in a silicone mold, but it will make it last longer, and remove parts quickly after curing to save the surface from baking out prematurely. Casting resins that take longer to cure develop less heat and are easier on the life of the mold.

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks for clearing that up. You sound very experienced so I will take your advice. Cheers, Dave.

[@TMFXLLC]

NP. Hand casting is an old model making and prototyping technique, and used heavily in the entertainment industry. A lot of aftermarket parts for automotive and other hobbies are initially hand cast until outsourcing becomes necessary. 3D software, 3D printing / CNC, and hand casting are the holy trinity of DIY. You can cast materials with properties that rival thermoforming polymers used in "real" manufactured goods these days. SmoothOn is ideal for getting a wide variety of user friendly materials in realistic quantities. Subbed.

[@MADProductionsAH]

What brand of resin did you use for the polyurethane

[@ActionBOX]

Specialty Resins

[@stuffoflardohfortheloveof]

I don’t have any interest in this or need for it but, wow, fascinating 👍

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks 😊 glad you enjoyed the video regardless.

[@technofeeliak]

I'd like to build a CNC type machine to tuft a large carpet. I don't know where to start exactly. What do you think?

[@ActionBOX]

I’m not sure really, I have never built a carpet cnc machine. What is required to make your carpet?

[@farmeritos]

You have great channel! i just need to ask, is it possible to get rid of bubbles in silicon with torch?

[@ActionBOX]

No. For silicone use vacuum or the thin poor method I describe in the video. Cheers.

[@ParsMaker]

nice work

[@ActionBOX]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@juanrafaeltosado1812]

GREAT!!!

[@ActionBOX]

Thanks! 😃

[@jonjon3829]

This is actually how I ended up scanning my face, first a smearable silicone, then a plaster cast then drawing a grid on the cast and finally photogrammetry.

[@ActionBOX]

Thats awesome. Its definitely a very cheap and quick method to get a high quality replica of mostly anything. Feel free to share your results, Id love to see it.

[@jonjon3829]

@@ActionBOX Believe me, it sounds simpler and faster then it actually was. The whole thing took probably a few weeks, with photogrammetry being the worst time consumer. The process could have taken 10mins if there was a cheap 3d scanner solution. I have a Sense 2 from 3d systems, but it never worked out of the box, the software was extremely buggy and its been discontinued so no support whatsoever. Hopefully you'll be able to put something better together. Fingers crossed.

[@ActionBOX]

@@jonjon3829 I have had success with an Xbox Kinect, and turning that into a 3D scanner. Resolution was not absolutely perfect, but that is one avenue you would explore.

[@jonjon3829]

@@ActionBOX I know, we talked about it under a previous video.

[@ruyvieira104]

Can you make the original part out of styrofoam? Does it stick too badly to the silicone?

[@ActionBOX]

Nothing will stick "too badly" to the molds other than silicone based compounds. Styrofoam will work, but the process of injecting EPS (expanded polystyrene) should probably require a solid metalled mold as it uses steam. I hope you enjoyed the video, don't forget to share with your friends and help me out 😃

[@mikevanin1]

Very nice video! I had to research what the heck you were moulding and went down the rabbit hole (hangboards?) - very interesting, nonetheless!

[@ActionBOX]

Yes indeed. Glad you enjoyed 😊