BetaFPV F4 2-4S AIO FC - REPAIR

In this video, I will repair a BetaFPV F4 2-4S AIO Brushless Flight Controller 12A (mouthful).
If you guys have any questions please leave them in the comments section, and I will try to answer them.
To support me please follow the links below, if you are interested in the tools I use on these repair videos.
Tools I use:
Hot Air Station: www.banggood.c...
Microscope: www.banggood.c...
PCB holder: www.banggood.c...
Soldering Iron: www.banggood.c...
Soldering Tips: www.banggood.c...
Tweezers: www.banggood.c...
Solder: Loctite 60/40 0.5mm
Solder wick: www.banggood.c...
Flux: www.banggood.c...
PS: Better Hot Air Station: www.banggood.c...
My Patreon: / livyufpv
Thank You!
#FPV #BetaFPV F4 AIO 12A #FlightControllerRepair

[@LivyuFPV]

The MCU was not getting hot, but the cap+3.3v regulator next to it :)

[@ooSreckoo]

I hope you realize, now you need a IR camera :) :) :) :)

[@dandumitraciuc9065]

Every time I search for a tutorial on how to replace small parts on my fried quad electronics, boom... It's you again. Amazing work!!!! Congrats!!!

[@tomshaa391]

Great, Thanks. I have the same FC AIO betaFPV, and I have a problem with abnormal thruttle increase after arming with little action radio thruttle.

[@housinit]

Thank you Livyu FPV! I've been repairing FC's, ESC's and AIO's for a couple years now from time to time. Watched this video a couple years ago, but came back to it today to see if I could get some pointers. I was having a heck of a time trying to get a Crazybee F4 Pro V2 AIO to come back alive. Removed and replaced SO MANY components and couldn't figure it out. Zero power, but a ton of amp draw that was not stable. Almost gave up then decided to pull a BB2 chip that was close to the suspect components. And.......voila! Thats all it was, the damn BB2 chip. Replaced it, powers up and boots fine now. Absolutely love that feeling! Next is to check to see if the ESC's are actually working and hope the BB2 chip doesnt blow when I do that. Thanks again, just had to get some inspiration from you.

[@MarioIArguello]

Excellent! this is along something I have done many times with my own stuff. Of course you have to have the right equipment and a good deal of skill, steady hands are a must for this level repair work. An IR heat sensing tool to identify areas of high temp is a great tool. People need to learn things that are useful! Electronics is one of those things, as pretty much everything around us is of an electronic nature. We have to learn how things work, so we can fix things ourselves and save $ in the process, knowing how to repair things is very powerful. While this is aimed at an item that we use for our hobby, the approach and technique applies to any type of electronic board repair. Thumbs UP! P.S. The cap in line with the output of the regulator would have been my first suspect, just from past experience , by the humming noise, and you did not have to remove unnecessarily other more critical components, source of heat is also a dead give away of possible bad component.

[@typxxilps]

master piece - considering the tip you had used. And the cleaning tip shows the real size again cause watching it longer you loose the scale until the cleaning tip appears.

[@illusionistsam]

Man i love your repair videos please make more of them and specially for vista and air unit 😊🎉

[@MontisTube]

Great work ressurecting this FC!

[@edcbabc]

Congratulations, I'd never manage that however long I practiced.

[@jpsalis]

What sort of temperature do you run your iron at? I've heard a lot of people recommend higher temperatures so you spend less time putting heat into the board and this seems to also be the case for this repair. Also which heat gun is that? Great video, very helpful

[@thetruemystic_]

hey hey. Really good video. I'm trying to do some diagnosing on this board - but struggling as I can't seem to find a wiring diagram online ANYWHERE. I think my 5v reg is dead or damaged but I'm not sure. Cheers

[@jakerock_]

This is awesome! You are really good at this!

[@TexasWaters]

Very informative, thank you!

[@CesarAnton]

awesome! thanks for sharing

[@HomeDronen]

Great info, I appreciate you sharing this information thanks for sharing! Also subbed your channel!

[@flat-earther]

really cool. what hot air station do you recommend for stuff like this?

[@nicholassmith2317]

Nice work !

[@lonnieleefpv4286]

great work!! love to watch! i have a BETAFPV F4 1S Brushless Flight Controller V2.2 that stopped working one day and was curious if i could send it to you. please hmu!

[@dndon2007]

nice job 👍🏻👍🏻

[@FPV777]

How did you pick the right nominal of cap? Or it does not such matter, just took first good cap?

[@pablofpv]

Good skills...

[@MadDragon75]

I wish you could guide me through my 1s Meteor75 issue. I don't believe it's a no voltage issue because all lights stay on except the blue VTX light in the middle flashes. The green/yellow mixed led emits both colors at the same time. It happened after a hard hit into wooden stairs. I didn't get any responses from the transmitter. As far as BETAFLIGHT.. It shows everything is good. The BLHelli tones sound normal. It was playing dead until I loaded the configuration CLI. Any suggestions would help. Your the first person I found that is likely able to help me troubleshooting. Thank you for your time.

[@dominicthuemmel9901]

well done, how can I figure out which part the gyro is? I think my gyro or compass or both broke with the last crash...

[@meinkanal118]

How do you know what cap it is even tough they are not labelled? I have a Board with a burned cap, but I don't know what to replace it with since I don't have a spare board

[@SettekFpv]

Simple trick how you can check if the Stm32 chip is dead. Check with your multimeter if contiunity is between 3,3 Volt and Gnd on the Programm Pads

[@LivyuFPV]

depends... I've seen a dozen ways that an stm32 MCU goes dead... 90% of the times it just gets shorted on VCC. other times it works half... other times some ports are shorted or not working... but the dead giveaway would be to check the current consumption :) Some times you know it will go dead just by the current consumption... :P

[@LivyuFPV]

PS: most of the time... I just take other approaches on the videos just for people to get a thing or two :)

[@SettekFpv]

@@LivyuFPV true most of the times i have should say :)

[@mothyfpv9938]

Great video and nice repair. Are you using lead solder, or lead free?

[@LivyuFPV]

leaded... 60/40

[@cptsobczak]

Thank for the video! I like watching you and I’m not even that into electronic repair. But I have the same FC with what I suspect a dead or fried mosfet. It just looks burned on the board so I’m guessing it’s that. I would love to attempt to do a repair but how do you get the parts for it? I’ve since bought the betafpv 20A v3 for my HX-115 and it works. Still I would love to find out where to purchase the parts like mosfets, caps and such. Any info would be great. Thanks and look forward to more videos.

[@LivyuFPV]

ebay, digikey, and more :) Some are only found on ebay from China...

[@m85fpv66]

Hi Livyu! That was an excellent tutorial. Very entertaining and instructive. I have the same FC BetaFPV F4 12A AIO but mine does not show video or OSD just black image. Theres no VTX or cam issues since I bridge the video in with video out and the image is crisp. Could there be issues with OSD chip? Also I noticed that theres continuity with VIN and GND. Is that normal? Its a brand new FC... THANK YOU!

[@LivyuFPV]

Hi, yes those OSD ic's do get bad from the factory :P a short... no, 75ohm resistance between vin and ground but not a dead short... there is also a cap in series to the VIN pin of the ic. If you have a dead short (0 ohm) it means that either the 75ohm resistor is shorted or you have some solder or something there...

[@m85fpv66]

Livyu FPV Thank you! I did checked and is 75Ω as you said... so that means a dead IC right? Ive communicated with Beta already... lets see Thanks again!

[@reednoel9418]

Did you know about fc of Meteor65 ver 2.2. it include SPI RX, After crack, the transistor NPN (1N) of CC2500 broken. Could you please show me, where I can wiring the extender rx sbus ( ie xm+, lr1000,...).I trying wiring sbus with SmartAudio, and Resource it to RX 1. so fc can't see sbus. please help with many thanks.

[@andreasgusti7484]

i have this fc but have trouble if i connect to betaflight is ok but not on when give a batere? help for solution

[@corneliudoc]

Salut! Cum e posibil de oprit vtx'ul incorporat in aio fc, cand conectezi un vtx extern?..

[@IAmTheOceanWhosWatersOverflow]

I see this is old but i have the same fc on a betafpv 85 pro2 and i can't figure out how to bind it without a bind button.

[@retrogazele]

Hi ! i have the AIO happymodel crazebee x boar . 1s-2s . one of the motors doesnt spin and make weird beeping sounds. (its not the motor i swaped it ,it might be the esc) i have basic soldering skill can this be fixed? thanks in advanced

[@flat-earther]

did you figure it out?

[@retrogazele]

@@flat-earther yes it was one of the Mofset.. a friend who has very good soldering skill swaped it.

[@fpvrehab8310]

Impressive. How are you filming this?

[@LivyuFPV]

microscope...

[@MarioIArguello]

@@LivyuFPV You should specify the type in case other people want to use similar. I use a 7" LCD screen MICROSCOPE brand for electronic repair. Great tool, you can get one in Amazon.

[@JB-po2mv]

is this robo jax?

[@denniskulcsar9778]

Where can I buy small components to repair my own stuff?

[@LivyuFPV]

On electronic parts stores like Digikey

[@takeaflightfpv8006]

I cant even un-solder a broken mmcx connector