BEWARE Of This Common Wiring Mistake On Switches & Outlets

[@buyamerican3191]

I've been an electrician for over 40 years and learned when I was an apprentice not to use the back stab holes and over the years I saw the reason why. Those connections do not grip the wire tightly enough and once a little corrosion gets into that connection it fails. I recently changed all of the devices in several houses in a 30 year old housing tract, one house had a fire as a result of a loose back stab (high resistance) connection and the rest of the houses hired me to do the same for them as a precaution. Over the years the most common place for a back stab failure has been any electrical box on the outside of the house where it is exposed to heat/cold and humidity. Nice video!

[@vernhorning42]

Craig Wilson knows

[@mrobvious5892]

Why apply the term “high resistance connection “ With regards to a defective electrical connection that has overheated. In a 120V circuit When you load match a resistive connection in series to a load that normally draws 12A. You’re looking at aprox “ 10 ohms” and 720 Watts for that resistive connection. Of course it’s an ohmic value relative to the circuit at hand thing, But pretty soon you’re gonna have people believing that 1000 ohm “high-resistance-connections” burn houses down.

[@buyamerican3191]

Mr. Obvious, I think you're overthinking the point high Resistance connection is just a generic term for a loose connection.

[@mrobvious5892]

Craig, we had a defective electrical connection in a basement bathroom shower overhead lighting fixture junction box where the wiring glowed orange as it smoke-checked through the Romex 12/2 insulation for 3” outside of the junction box. (This occurred due to a dead short circuit that occurred for about 5 seconds and was stopped), but the 20 amp single pole breaker didn’t trip and was not defective. Why didn’t the circuit breaker trip? Would that high resistance connection have had about 20-30 ohms?

[@ronnym1977]

Yeap. I have found several failed switches and outlets while doing repairs in older homes that used these type of "connections." I always use the screw tightened connection.

[@wmcomprev]

I've seen outlets that have the backstabbing into a spring loaded connection fail after repeated heating and cooling caused by high current draw. However, there are outlets that allow you to put the wire straight in from the back that are OK. The ones that are OK have a plate under the screws. The wire is put straight in under the plate then the screws are tightened down to hold it in place.

[@AlexanderCrump]

Yes, those types of connections are good. You don't have to bend the wire and it makes a nice neat, solid connection. I think those are better than tightening around a screw because the wire is compressed only instead of dragged around the screw.

[@qwertyui859]

I've been an electrician for 15 years. I see 1-2 homes per year where using the holes in the back of the outlet or switch fail in making a good connection. They usually last a while unless under heavy load. Use the wrap around method. Ya it takes a little longer but they don't fail.

[@mrpanda2655]

it makes work for another electrician down the road and it’s faster, it’s a win win

[@izzimichaels2892]

@@mrpanda2655 lol

[@fiddlefire94]

I called an electrician! He's happy for the work. I can watch and learn and not end up on the other side of the room with smoke coming out of my ears! Wrapping is definitely harder but definitely stronger. the ones I did change were done that way. Thank you!! thanks to all who commented. God bless, stay safe!

[@jeffthomas6242]

I’ve been an electrician for 33 yrs and 85% of my troubleshooting calls are because of this back stabbing. So many homes have burned down because of this method that they invented AFCI breakers and devices. The customer says “my lights flicker or my outlets don’t work” and I say “yep, most likely back stabbing.” I don’t know why they just don’t stop making them.

[@dkannegi]

I had two outlets fail in my home (5th owner) because of a previous owner using the back stab method extensively. Took 3 nights to pigtail and switch to the screws.

[@eppersonelectrical1621]

As a licensed, master commercial electrician, please never use the holes on the back the switch or receptacle. It will only become a loose connection over time. I can’t begin to tell you how many service calls/repairs I’ve made because of this particular wiring practice. Actually many inspectors will fail this particular wiring practice.

[@collinmcrae9331]

O

[@jtmoll58]

I read the comments below and agree "stay away from the push in holes for connection'. Current runs threw a wire and produces heat. Over time this breaks down the snap connection. There are now some receptacles and switches that a straight wire can go behind a plate that requires the screw to tighten. This is by far the best of both worlds. The only down side is cost a little more. But when I advise home owners - I highly recommend these and actual refuse use any else. It was good advice about/above the stripe length. Plus the video did not mention when tightening around the screw make sure right to tight (direction)for the half dome connection.

[@richardbusch9471]

Excellent video. No talking head, just up-close clear images and clear descriptions.

[@kennethkendrick4795]

Great tutorial, thanks for posting. I've been an electrician for over 40 years. Countless times I've replaced outlets and switches which were faulty due to the easy insert back wire holes. Over time they inevitably ark and become scorched and intermittent, especially if pulling a lot of amps. Although it is more time consuming to use the screws, it's worth it. Good point Stephen, observe polarity on receptacles. The positive or "black" wire goes to the copper screw, the neutral or "white" goes to the silver screw, and the ground or "bare" wire goes to the green screw.

[@kennethkendrick4795]

You're right Dan, there's always a chance that you're encountering a situation that was wired by "Joe Do-It-Yourselfer" and not up to code. I encountered a light switch once in which someone was switching the neutral instead of the hot. It turned the light on and off, but the current was continuously looking for a ground path at the light fixture.

[@kennethkendrick4795]

@dan cussin That's a nightmare! In those days most houses only had a 60 amp service with fuses in lieu of circuit breakers, and the few outlets only had a hot and neutral with no ground. Then you're adding the curse of numerous DIYers which most likely has you considering earning a PHD in profanity. The worse part of troubleshooting any kind of electrical problem is deciphering someone else's shoddy work. I can also relate to precarious mounting techniques. I've seen countless ceiling fans mounted to flimsy plastic boxes. That's like taking your chances sitting under a crashing helicopter.

[@kennethkendrick4795]

@dan cussin Damn, phone problems too? The plot thickens! The high and low voltage wiring were most likely done simultaneously. Residential phone wiring is at the top of the no-brainer list. If they botched that, no wonder you're having so many glitches. Well, at least analog POTS (plain-old-telephone-service) is essentially antiquated in lieu of VOIP (voice-over-internet-protocol) so you can abandon those circuits. Look at it from a positive perspective Dan, you're slowly removing the Murphy's law curse. Eventually you'll be free from pulling rabbits from the hat!

[@colincampbell1113]

Is the codes body or the manufactures of the outlets not in touch with the installers? I mean everyone here saying don’t use the push fit terminals. Then if there that bad then they should be banned and re designed and made fit for purpose. To me terminals should be of a captures screw type and shrouded.

[@waltermasterson6135]

Excellent video! A+! Great camera angles and great lighting, focused on the subject rather than a talking head, and overlaid with clear, concise, accurate commentary. You can't hear it, but I'm applauding.

[@mjnz]

OMG I'm so relieved. By the title I thought you were going to tell me I should NEVER use the "hook" method lol

[@scottdowney4318]

The best back wire sockets also use the screw to pull an interior plate against the wire. Makes it much easier to connect wires to sockets.

[@williamcharles9480]

Nice video for a do it yourself person just starting out in his venture to save a few dollars while also building some self esteem. May God bless you, too.

[@Pbadome1]

Best response, especially among all the negative remarks.

[@gophersgirl]

Sadly in my part of the country doing electrical diy voids your house insurance... all these diy videos are not only taking the jobs away from the professionals but also a major safety concern. There is a reason I had to go through a 4yr apprenticeship with school and 6500hrs before getting my ticket... dont try to kill yourself or risk burning your house down because you decided to save a few dollars.

[@davidmiller4221]

Most wire strippers have a hole at the tip. Insert the wire through the hole and rotate your wrist 180 degrees. Makes a nice J end.

[@walterbrunswick]

I purchased several quality sets of those wire benders. They are a joy to use, and perfection every time. Just how I like it.

[@tomatexelon]

He should of showed that.

[@smoothiehealth2810]

Thank you! Very concise and to the point. I'm a young lady that tries to do my own simple diy projects. Now I feel confident enough to change an outlet that needed to be changed out for months now. 👏🏾

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Smoothie Health 👍😊

[@KevinBenecke]

Just don't use the spring holes on the back. Take the extra time to use needle nose pliers and make the hook and put the wire under the screw.

[@smoothiehealth2810]

@@KevinBenecke thanks for the tip Kevin.

[@red2965]

I know by now you've changed that outlet out so it probably wasn't a surprise if you found five wires instead of three two of them would have been traveler wires also pay attention to the outlets and make sure that that side tab isn't broke if it is break it on the new one that's because it's split powered.

[@michaeldvorak5556]

Good explanation. Someone made the point that using the push in connection is inferior. But something else that I see people do that will cause failure is when the stripped section is too long and when they wrap it around the screw they overlap the wire leading up to the screw. When they tighten the screw the overlapping wires squeeze together creating a weak point that will break.

[@SE45CX]

What I like about your instruction is the absence of fanatic safety talk. I like your style of explaining practical things really well.

[@nemesisxrox6773]

... til u get 'zapped' following absence

[@randysnell9218]

When I bought my house in 1990, it was wired with the push in stuff. After a few issues. most everything I have now converted to spec grade screw terminal type. You get what you pay for.

[@jacilynns6330]

In some places using push in terminals on electrical connections will actually invalidate your house insurance. Same goes for using plastic boxes on plug sockets or light sockets. Just an fyi

[@MichaelClark-uw7ex]

@@jacilynns6330 Plastic is legal if it is certified for the use by underwriters labs, they have to be non combustible or add no fuel to an existing fire.

[@jacilynns6330]

@@MichaelClark-uw7ex actually, from what I have been told, it has nothing to do with combustible but with abuse. Plugs get yanked out of walls often even with metal boxes things become lose. And heavy light fixtures just wont work on plastic boxes. That is my understanding anyway. I have seen a plastic plug boxes yanked out of wall with plug socket totally disconnected from box. That is just dangerous. Experiment if you wish.

[@MichaelClark-uw7ex]

@@jacilynns6330 I've been in the business for over 40 years, and know what I'm talking about, we have to take continuing education training every 2 years to keep our license as well. Light fixture boxes have weight ratings, you have to use one rated for the application, I personally never use plastic because they are flexible and drywallers are notorious for deforming them, I either use metal or fiberglass. There was a problem with that screw loosening/stripping with the early plastic boxes, that's why listed ones have a metal insert in the mounting screw holes.

[@harrybradley5273]

Fastand

[@gerhardschemel3565]

Having experience that started 40 years ago I never use the push in method with one exception and that is if the load being supplied is only a few amps. And never ever use the push in method when you are feeding through because you should not use a device as splicing point. Always use a pigtail splice so if you have to service that device you don’t have any possible issues from an open neutral. Be sure to take pride in your work because electricity can be deadly

[@SteveWhiteDallas]

I agree. If you stab-lock your wires, it's not a matter of "if" but "when" will that connection fail. I would bet that you've pulled many plugs out of the box and had the wires just slip right out of those holes. I had it happen on 3 plugs just yesterday, troubleshooting a converted garage (now bedroom) in Dallas, TX. (I guess I'm still a rookie. I started in '83.)

[@selectrick66566]

What? No lock-out/ tag-out training? A guy with 40 years experience should know better than to work on anything "live". That eliminates any possible issues with opening a neutral. This is 2020, we don't work on live circuits anymore because as you said "electricity can be deadly". And why do you think there are 4 screws on a receptacle? It's perfectly acceptable to wire in and out of a receptacle and not considered a "splicing point".

[@selectrick66566]

@@SteveWhiteDallas Nonsense. If you stripped the wires to the correct length, and it's the correct gauge, and the receptacle is not some used piece of junk, it's near impossible to pull the wires out after they're in. Even after they've been in "proper" use for decades. They are designed that way and UL approved, but even so, I always use the screws only because I'm a bit of a perfectionist, to a fault.

[@gerhardschemel3565]

E Nigma acceptable doesn’t mean it is good. There are times that there is no other way to work on something. And one should always work as if it was live just in case of several possibilities. Btw what is your experience with doing the work

[@josharmstrong6529]

While I agree with everything you have said. I feel like the need to make the call for creating a pigtail at an outlet to feed a receptacle is a needed augmentation to the code. Like you, I also disagree with using any device as an integral part of the circuitry. I feel the stab method is a viable option in scenarios that have low loads and or actuation. Since it is nearly an impossibility to predict the usage of a receptacle, I would also recommend to not use them.

[@briancooper4959]

The push-in holes in back are known as stab-locks. As a professional, I do not recommend their use, especially with size 14 wire. Use the screws, and tighten them properly. Note: If you really don't know what you're doing, call a pro.

[@petec6690]

100% agree! Get a pro. Those stab connections provide a side pressure which depends on the sharp edge of the stab tab to prevent the wire from pulling out. Force a 12 gauge wire in and there's less angle but more contact. Use the correct wire size (14 gauge) and they lock better (not the best - but better than a 12 gauge wire) but their contact surface is reduced. Screwing is always the best practice. And if one is not certain - calling a pro is advised. Again, Brian, I 100% agree with you. Oh, and I've seen people try to stab stranded wire into those holes. Had a landlord who did that. The guy was as sharp as a fuzzy tennis ball.

[@briancooper4959]

@@petec6690 As Foghorn Leghorn said, "That boy's about as sharp as a bowling ball."

[@nickyjames1430]

@@briancooper4959 Foghorn wired a lot of hen houses in his day, with no complaints!

[@josephcronin4209]

Also do not use test lights use the right test equipment . Better yet call a pro .

[@renoguy25]

Wow , I was coming to the comment section to ask if push-ins were really as good as screwed terminals .... but thinking that because this video was posted like a year and a half ago , who knows " if " and or " when " I might get an answer ... Holy Crap , did this just repost in the last few days ???? a shit load of comments in the last 24 hrs... And YES , I got my answer Load and Clear .... Thanks

[@troyholley3615]

I wonder why the outlet and receptical manufactures still make them with the connectors in the back of them.

[@tedl7538]

"Load and Clear".....unintentional electrician's pun?

[@SteveWhiteDallas]

@@troyholley3615 The newer devices only accept 14 awg wire. I don't know why they ever accepted 12 gauge wire anyway, considering only 15 amp devices have the stab lock holes. At least I have never seen them on 20 amp or spec. grade devices.

[@ANG3LiiToVU3LA]

Best to wrap the conductor around the terminals, don’t trust plugging them into the hole in the back of appliance

[@robertpost1807]

As an electrician for 37 years now I agree with everything that was said in this video. The only addition that I would say is that the quick plug option is what I find to be the weak link in the electrical connection. Years ago the quick plugging of 15 amp devices with #12 (20amp wire) was outlawed because of too many fire starting because of poor connections. They do still have quick connect holes for #14 (15amp wire) though. I chose to never use this feature and always attach the wires to the screws or pigtail the wires in the box and eliminate the chance of a poor connection on the outlet being a potential problem.

[@mrpanda2655]

Robert Post in new outlets theyre better

[@robertpost1807]

Mr Panda I’ve never had a callback in 37 years but have been to too many service calls where the outlet is burned up because it was quick plugged years ago. I just believe in doing a job right the first time.

[@mrpanda2655]

Robert Post the newer outlets have a better stab lock

[@rocketrider1405]

Interesting. I would never use a stab hole either but I must admit i didn't know that by tightening the terminal screw associated with the hole that this tightens the connection. Is that true?

[@mrpanda2655]

Rocket Rider no

[@claytoncornia4156]

The strip gauge on the back of the device is the amount you need to strip when you secure the wire in the backstab on the back of the device. These backstabs are just what the derogatory name implies, I never use them when I make up a device. They depend on spring pressure to secure the wire in place and make an electrical connection. These connections have a tendency to fail over time, especially if the outlet draws heavy amperage loads. The spring looses pressure after many heating and cooling cycles and the wire becomes loose and stops making contact. This can build up heat and lead to electrical fires. It is okay to make a connection to the device with the grooved terminals on the side that tighten down with a screw. Just make sure to tighten the screw down enough. All devices should specify a tourqe rating for the side terminals to be tightened to. If you can, always wrap the wire around the screw and tighten it down. You will need to strip off about 3/4's of an inch of insulation to do it properly. Also take a pair of needlenose pliers and close the loop of wire on itself around the screw. Make sure the end of the wire is touching the begining of the loop so it can't wiggle off the screw. And as one of my apprenticeship teachers said, "always twist it clockwise". I still remember him singing this little jingle to us after 24 years.

[@dustinpomeroy8817]

@Tom Garbo I watched an electrician once and he wrapped the outlets ,I've done it that since,never question ed it.The houses we built never got plastic boxes so I guess the tape wrap just made sense to me.

[@timcastle165]

Some good advice, but never use those holes in the back of the outlet unless they can be clamped down tight by using the side terminal screws!! As a retired Electrician I’ve seen many times when those “spring” type connections loosen or wear out over time. If you are dead set on wiring the switch or outlet that way then spend another dollar and purchase one that uses the screw to clamp the wire in and not the spring type. But when in doubt always use the side screws, less problems in the long run!!

[@joshmeyer7384]

I haven't seen outlets with those push-hole terminals in so long, I thought they had fallen out of favor -- or were no longer "up to code"

[@taunteratwill1787]

@@joshmeyer7384 In Europe they are still sold mass wise. They're pure crap!

[@mrpanda2655]

Josh Meyer what are you talking about, I wire all outlets using the Stab lock

[@chevtruck1000]

Black wire brass screw, white wire to nickel plated screw. Make sure both screws on each side are tight and the ground is also properly connected.. Wrap the exposed screw heads with electrical tape around the black plastic part of the receptacle or switch housing before installing. into the wall box. The tape prevents inadvertent contact down the line and although not required by code doesn't hurt anything.

[@RRRRR7-c7r]

First thing I learned in high school technical school. I remember the day I did wrong. My teacher made me do it over. We actually serviced the whole school dept if it was electrical we did it. Even live panels. This was the late 90's early 2000's. What a learning experience. I went on to the industrial electrical world.

[@rockriv2238]

Auto shop class in late 80's we'd service all the teachers and students cars for cost of parts. Best class ever Stay strong guy's and God bless

[@aarongrant7402]

Good information all the way up to the point of “back stab method” as a licensed electrician NEVER NEVER use the convenient method of stabbing the wire into the back side, very big fire hazard. What happens is the spring loaded latch that grips the copper as you push it in, after time, some immediately, have a loose connection and loose connections will cause heat and arcing that will eventually lead to fire. This is especially important for higher current / amp items such as microwave and other appliances that pull a decent load. NEVER use the back stab method to wire a plug or switch or anything, to be honest from what I’ve seen over the years it’s becoming harder to find electrical devices that allow the spring loaded back stab method, used to be found on your $0.99 cent plugs and switches from Walmart.

[@jokerseriously514]

Not to mention, if the circuit has lighting in it, the wires will jump from the in rush...never stab a wire! Screws are there for a reason, stabbing is just plain lazy!!

[@lriesbeck]

Common sense tells you that the amount of surface contact when using the stab in the back method is a tiny amount, causing overheating and a failure, as you have described. I would never use this method and have always replaced burned out receptacles with screw down landing. This stab in style should be outlawed, and I cant understand how it was ever allowed to be an acceptable method of joining anything remotely close to 14AWG which operates up tp 15 Amps. Insane.

[@joemc111]

Buffalo Man I don’t know about homes burning down but it does cause a lot of problems.

[@sunbeam8866]

At least those 99 cent units still have screws so you can do it the right way. I had to redo an older rental unit that was originally push-in wired with outlets & switches without any terminal-screws - except for grounding!

[@jokerseriously514]

@@joemc111 he doesn't care...guys like this have no idea how electricity works!

[@darylwade2335]

Great video, one note... the dark (bronze) coloured screws are the "hot" side, while the light (silver) screws are for the white wire.

[@KevinBenecke]

You can also tell by looking at the slots on a plug. the shot one is the "hot" side and the long one is the white wire.

[@georgejones1336]

Kevin Benecke wide is white

[@georgejones1336]

That’s how I remembered

[@daveg2609]

Black & gold, silver & white

[@maertsaidaem2106]

Rick Simpson YOU PEOPLE???

[@jadesystem]

Excellent instructional video. Thanks so much for your technical expertise on this common failure. Another point to address - I never knew what the pointed needle nose pliers were for. In all my years, I've never seen a use for them until now. It makes a clean 180 degree hook. Thanks again.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

👍😊

[@my_channel_44]

jewelry usually. There's a small hole on the side of your strippers, to grab the tip of the wire and do a nice twist of your wrist to bend it.

[@brianbelchior7329]

Really??? You've never known what pointed needle nose pliers were for??? What about the colours of the Roberston screwdriver? Ok the colours are very common in Canada but the pliers are like electrical 101

[@thomasblue6064]

The basics, getting the basics down on anything you do is so important. Paul great video well done. Thanks

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Thomas Blue 👍😊

[@kevingrove4379]

Thomas Blue even spelling? 🌚 Just funnin ya, spellcheck

[@thomasblue6064]

@@kevingrove4379 thanks for the reply, I guest I should practice what I preach. Thanks

[@meangreen7389]

Easy to understand narration. Thank you for sharing a short and concise vid.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Mean Green 👍😊

[@jerryw6699]

if you do it hot, you will be the first one to know when you have made a mistake

[@kennethkendrick4795]

Colin, I understand what you're saying. The push-in option has been around for decades to make it easier and faster than using the 'wrap around' terminals which I will admit can be a bit cumbersome and time consuming. If you're an electrician wiring a new house with dozens of outlets, time is money. In this DIY world the "murphy proof" design of receptacles isn't likely to change any time soon. Regardless of the method you use, I strongly advise purchasing quality wiring devices. They cost a bit more, but they utilize solid copper connectors instead of aluminum alloys so you're purchasing good insurance.

[@rodgerlmorris]

Wire and terminal color mnemonic: Green to ground, white to bright, and black to brass will save your ass.

[@DavidBioformRains]

Never heard that, but good one to know!

[@robburke5577]

That’s solid!

[@captcandyman]

@Nicholas Blakeney they would that for older light fixtures (pre-led, compact florescent), incandescent light bulbs have no polarity. as in, it don't matter which is hot or neutral, it will work either way. green or a bare wire is always meant to be a ground. should not be used any other way. here in USA white is supposed to be used as a neutral, but can be used as a power wire or switch leg, If done so, then it is supposed to be colored, (black, red, etc) to show that it could be a power wire. black, red, blue, are used as power wires for 110-240 volt circuits. Brown, orange, yellow, are used as power wires for 277-480 volts and up, not normally found in residential. but there are the odd cases, like it was the only wire they had on hand, or it has faded or been bleached by the elements of the years. the colors not just help identify the possible voltage, but also the phase. outside of residential, it can be common for all wires to be black, and then marked with a few rings of color tape.

[@captcandyman]

@Nicholas Blakeney yes the bulls were ok, the sensor is sensitive to polarity,

[@613techpro]

Hi, Your explanations are clear and easily understandable. I wish you provide more video related to electrical.

[@partylee007]

As a retired electrician of 32 years, I would also like to mention that it’s best to always use a 20 amp receptacle even on 15 amp circuits. There is no safety concerns in doing that as a 15 amp circuit breaker will trip before or at 15 amps and under heavy loads you will have fewer (or no) problems in the future with your receptacles. Also always tail out the wires in the junction box before terminating onto a receptacle screws, that way if you ever do have a receptacle that fails it won’t affect others on the same circuit.

[@claytoncornia4156]

As an electrician of 22 years and now an electrical engineer, I like the way you think. Much easier to do it the right way first. Like the old saying goes, "we didn't have time to do it right the first time, but we sure had time to do it over".

[@dustinpomeroy8817]

I had a buddy who is a commercial electrician said that's how they do it in a commercial setting,I do it that way now in residential settings.

[@donhrcc]

Putting a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit is a bad practice. This will allow a device requiring in excess of the circuit rating to be plugged into the outlet. This will cause constant tripping and excessive breaker wear. Using a commercial quality receptacle instead of a residential quality one will better solve the issue of increasing the lifespan of the receptacle.

[@bc7923]

Waste of time and money. There rated at 15 amps being supplied by 15 amps. Plus breakers and devices are tested at %110 of there actual rating. (15 Amp device =16.5 amps.)

[@waytospergtherebro]

Why stop there? I just put 220 plugs all over my house and now I'm saying it's a good idea on the internet. Prove me wrong, kids.

[@suzannelebizarre5705]

Yup, Yup...being a homeowner, and knowing about electricity and plumbing, and more...grandpa was a carpenter, neighbor was an electrician in the local steel mill, another neighbor was a plumber, father was a truck mechanic...learned a lot growing up, and as a homeowner doing my own repairs and more...

[@proclaimliberty2000]

👍😊 there is always something to learn.

[@mfsolutions]

Great point... this also applies to stripping and installing wires in neutral busses and breakers. Inspectors want to see bare wire between the connector and the insulation. I also like your use of the round tip pliers. Copper wire will gouge easily and the gouge will act as a stress riser ( the strength will be reduced by up to 3X). The wire will bend and could crack when you push the switch or receptacle into the box. Finally, a very important point and frequent cause of shorts is leaving the unused screws loose. These will short against the side of the box. I also wrap the entire receptacle or switch with one piece of electrical tape covering the screwheads so shorting is less likely.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Gregory Dalton 👍😊

[@bobpress1235]

you got shortin goin on between switch lugs and box, you using wrong boxs , bub......get youself some plastic j-box, the home you save may be yur own!

[@vincentrobinette1507]

You're exactly right about all these things, there's only one thing you forgot: The fact that those spring clips just don't have the contact area to allow the outlet to be loaded to full rated current. If someone plugs in a space heater, the contact resistance can cause overheating of the contacts, which will loosen them, causing them to burn up. You always have to assume that the typical homeowner doesn't know much about electricity, and may plug in a hair curler set, then, try to use a hair dryer. The outlet needs to withstand enough current to trip the breaker, rather than burn up the duplex outlet. My recommendation is to ALWAYS use the side terminal screws, exactly the way shown in this video.

[@mfsolutions]

@@vincentrobinette1507 I am not an electrician but I study contact and wear between metals... your comments have me wanting to do this in a controlled way and show the effect of poor contact caused by these clips... It is terrible that they start out with something that originally passed code and testing and they try to save money by making it cheaper... and nothing is tested anymore.

[@vincentrobinette1507]

@@mfsolutions If you want to test this, get yourself some of those 'crummy' outlets, wire them up, and rather than using high voltage AC, connect them to a large 12 volt battery as the source, and power a DC to AC power inverter with it as the load. Duplex outlets can usually be "daisy chained", so you can pass through one outlet, go to another, with different terminals, and maybe a 3rd, so you can test all the ways they can be connected. That way, you can put 20 or 30 amps through the connections, and the amperage can be controlled by the load on the output of the inverter.( a 200 watt lamp will draw about 18~20 amps, a 250 watt lamp, 25~30 amps DC) That way, there's no chance of electric shock, and you can safely touch wires near the connections, to see which ones get hottest.

[@jerryumfress9030]

Good video sir. I'm in HVAC and I run into these problems in the field especially in attic residential furnaces. The duplex outlet gets stepped on quite often which will lead to a host of other problems. I tell the customer that I can re- locate the receptical to a place other than in front of the unit. I several close friends who are master electricians and I call on them regularly and txt them pics of what I've found in the field and of course none of us are surprised anymore by what we see. Your video is very precise, and presented very clearly. I'm glad I found your channel!

[@bobvecchi7981]

How can you say it’s a good video when the comments are unilaterally showing that he is giving bad advice, which shows that he lacks the practical experience to know it is bad. I’m sure he thinks he is giving good advice, so I would give him a pass. But I wouldn’t give a pass to those who accept these you tubers advice as gospel. As the phrase goes “let the buyer beware”.

[@iap6647]

The best way to do this is to strip the wire first and then bend it 90 degrees so it is perpendicular to the insulation, then bend the bare wire. This makes it easier to fit under the screw and to tighten it down. It also centers the wire on the screw instead of to the left.

[@pyro323]

Good advice. Also be sure not to mix up the line and load sides. Line is where the power comes in from and load feeds the next outlet if there is one. Brass screws are power and silver screws are neutral. Green is ground. Stay safe and GOD bless! 🇺🇲⚡

[@Rickimusic]

Be sure the breakers are off before hitting that like button.

[@khalilrehman6466]

🤣🤣🤣

[@MC_AU]

Yeah, the third unlabelled, unnumbered breaker on the left.

[@lourias]

One never needs to be shocked! Being startled or surprised is okay, though.

[@iberianlion1459]

And wear gloves!

[@Rickimusic]

@Jimmy Coe Sorry, I use a lap top on battery. lol

[@repairman99]

Good pointers for do it yourself people. I just replaced three receptacles which were all worn out. Followed your instructions. Thanks.

[@nemesisxrox6773]

... depends on which "method" u chose ... 'side terminal' method (good to go) ... 'rear push-in' method - (best redo)

[@electricalgenius6675]

I'd never recommend "back-stabbing" a receptacle, 90% of the service calls I get to repair outlets are due to this "shortcut". If you absolutely must be lazy and decide to use the holes in the back please keep in mind that they are typically only good for 14awg wire. 12awg won't fit.

[@paulk5311]

@Sylvia isgod lol

[@MrSleepProductionsInc]

Silvia may not be joking. I’ve seen some pretty F’d up stuff! There is a neighborhood here where the installer drilled out the back holes on every device to be able to fit #12 wire.

[@tms2568]

Good point. I don’t choose to use the push in connectors either at home or for small jobs to avoid potential future issues. However an electrician wiring an entire house will often use them for the 15 amp circuits for efficiency. They’re code compliant and can save a lot of time. But for installing one or only a few receptacles, or any circuits 20 amp or higher wrap the wire around the screws. And don’t be afraid to twist them tight.

[@DaveMiller2]

@@MrSleepProductionsInc Yeh, because THAT takes less time than using the side screw.

[@MrSleepProductionsInc]

dave miller Hey, I couldn’t believe it either! Only thing I could figure to make it financially feasible is if he had a bunch of kids drilling them out. I’m sure they drilled too far and damaged some of them. That may be why we were there repairing dead outlets. I don’t remember all the details now.

[@1pcmedic]

The strip gauge is for the push-ins on the back........high resistance = heat. When working with the screws, strip a little more than the gauge and use the pliers to bend with wire into a full circle once you get it around the screw. If the screw loosens a little the wire will not jump off because of wire pressure when you forced it back into the box.

[@lostinmyspace4910]

Sometimes the things we take for granted. This video is proof that we "know it alls" need to stop...listen, and take heed' then go back and fix those switches we installed. Even the punch in holes in the back of the switches...I never knew the screw still had to be tightened down although I never did rely on that method of wire attachment. THUMBS UP!

[@shikpolam8968]

I am sure this will help lots of new comers to do a proper and safe installation. Good work.

[@orcoastgreenman]

The “push-wire” holes on the back are ONLY installer friendly unless they are the type that clamps when the screw is tightened, that kind is solid and both installer and user friendly. The kind that just squeeze the wire by force of a spring clip are horrid, ONLY benefit the installer in time saved, and INEVITABLY cause failures for the user.

[@vincentrobinette1507]

I agree: I've had a lot of problems with them, and I think they're unsafe. There just isn't enough contact area, to allow full rated current. That type is likely to fail if a space heater is used. If you ever see those, I recommend using the side screw terminals, exactly the way shown in this video. I'm glad I saw this comment, because I was about to post the same thing!

[@NoorquackerInd]

I replaced my receptacles and they _all_ had the spring clip installation. Good thing I learned how to remove it in a minute as opposed to 5 minutes per wire

[@PaddyO1958]

The metallic spring loaded clips are subject to the same rules as almost all other metals are subject, fatigue, that is one possible explanation for the failure of these push in failures.

[@303nitzubishi4]

The backstab was meant to speed up mass production in subdivisions. If done PROPERLY the connection will last the life of the outlet. Problem is, laborers are in such a hurry that alot of the stabbing is not done properly. Also the spring tension ones are pretty much meant for one time use only so if any maintenance or modification is made, it's unlikely the connection will be anywhere near as secure after the tension has been manually released by an electrician

[@porticojunction]

Sometimes it is the only practical way to fit it all in the box. I try to only use it for single lighting loads. With LEDS those are pretty low watts these days.

[@colten1d]

Push in will fail. Just talked to a man who's wife was using a heating pad in their recliner for back pain. Outlet heated up and melted, didn't trip the circuit breaker but luckily circuit opened before it burned down the house. And with no Arc Fault detection to sence the problem it could have cost them their home or their lives. PLEASE DO NOT use the push in type connectors in your installations.

[@xzilicpython233]

Great video. Tips are wonderful. You make it look so easy. I'm an old woman with hands that are not as strong as a man. Bending 14 gauge wire is really hard. Strippin' and wiggling those wires around those screws is a test of my patience and strength. What should be a 10 minute job for a man turns into an hour of free flowing expletives coming from this old woman's mouth that makes my kids wonder "what the he!! is mom doin'". I just make sure hubby is fishing while I'm wiring. 🤣🤣🤣

[@donm2067]

Who ever uses the holes in the back is a chump, but I thank you for all the service calls.

[@saint0004]

My house came with these stupid things. Can i simply replace with the other hook ones?

[@donm2067]

@@saint0004 yes. Make sure the box is grounded properly while you're in there.

[@donm2067]

@@MoonRambo702 I just get frustrated because houses are so damn expensive I Canada, and they're built by contractors that's couldn't build a sandwich, yet they do plumbing, HVAC, electrical

[@ski4767]

Lol

[@jrossofskb]

What's wrong with using the holes in the back?

[@robertthrailkill1368]

Very clear simple instructions that many DIY homeowners get wrong

[@dfields9511]

Good vid Every single light switch that has stopped working in my house was wired with the push holes ( not the screws on the size ). Often times I found just moving it to the side screws fixed the problem .

[@tms2568]

Another common problem with wrapping the wire on the side screw is that the screw is not tightened enough. People may feel they need to go easy on them because the device is made of plastic. Don’t be afraid to really make them tight. Wires expand and contract with use so can loosen up the screw over time if not sufficiently tight. Use a flat head screwdriver for better torque. Cordless drill can be used with caution so as not the crack the device.

[@genesegal7182]

My life is finally complete, as I have gained the very knowledge I needed to be whole, thanks to this video.

[@johnjkizer6399]

If you feel you have gained enough knowledge by watching this video you will be shocked when the truth is revealed, peace and God Bless

[@tonyv8925]

An additional pointer for those installing modern wall outlets: the 3rd hole, the ground of the receptacle points down to the floor. Doing this provides mechanical safety when plugging in 3 prong plugs. good video, thanks.

[@GERRYMALONEY47]

Fuk that just break off the ground plug

[@red2965]

@@GERRYMALONEY47 that might be a shocking surprise sometime

[@Dano-uf8ys]

I have 3 outlets that were improperly installed, this information will be very helpful.

[@brianhanlon9602]

Y'all should see the way my house was wired when I moved in. Every breaker was 20amp, 14/2 wire for everything, 18 outlets on one circuit, never mind the the whole 3 bedroom house consisted of really two circuits. I circuit was the bedrooms and the bathroom and the other was the kitchen, dining room, and living room. Every outlet on the exterior walls had a lead coming down one side of the box from the attic and up the other side of the box back to the attic. Inside every one of these boxes the leads from the incoming and outgoing wires were soldered together with pig tails connected to the outlets. The house listed claimed the wiring had been upgraded, which I found was only from the weather head to the main panel. The power going to the detached garage was interior 14/2 stretched from eave to eave connected to two 20amp fuses....

[@MMGJ10]

Sweet jesus. Sounds similar but worse than the house I just bought and going over right now

[@red2965]

Omg sounds like my house. It had a 125amp service box with the main and two fuses to control each side of the house. Very frustrating.

[@jimshort9266]

@ Brian… sounds like a nightmare. The one thing I want to point out is that pigtails to connect receptacles is actually the proper way, but not the solder joints. Of course if it’s the last receptacle in the circuit then a pigtail is not necessary. Nor supposed to rely on the receptacle/devise to complete a circuit.

[@paulk5311]

for anyone new to this i would say this video offers some good tips. doing basic wiring is not that hard or frightening as long as no power is feeding into what you are working on.

[@nemesisxrox6773]

... til ya flip the switch :)

[@jeffthomas6242]

Any body can buy an electrical book and wire something up. But in 6 months when your house burns down know that you didn’t follow the correct method which they don’t tell you in the book.

[@kindredspiritzz66]

jeez im 53 yrs old and do a lot of my own wiring and never knew most of what you were talking about, Always wondered what that strip gauge was for. Good video and quickly to the point

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Dave Nonyabiz 👍😊

[@sm1tty031]

great commentary on this issue. I swear I thought I was listening to Saul Goodman

[@kittypigeonclueless5566]

What an excellent video! Start to finish, exactly how it's supposed to be done.

[@patrickr.5900]

I am shocked, shocked that there is improper wiring going on in this establishment !!

[@glenmartin2437]

This is a good video. Thank you. I do not use the poke in connectors, as electricians recommended I not use them for safety reasons. In a number of outlets with plug ins, or duplex receptacles, I have found that old, used receptacles were installed. These garage sale specials may have saved someone money, but they are a serious safety hazard. The electrical connection was so poor, that a vacuum cleaner plugged into one of these plug ins would not even turn on, neither would a floor lamp. I usually install a higher priced industrial grade duplex receptacle which will last longer than the residential grade one. If there is medical equipment in the home, it might be good to have an electrician install much more expensive medical grade receptacles, etc.

[@dnsmithnc]

WARNING: You need to check both outlets to make certain that you have turned off the right breaker or breakers. One could be wired through a switch that is turned off and the other could be still hot. If I can, I just turn off the main breaker.

[@Mintman70]

I agree on NOT using the push in connections on the back of any outlet or switch. It's all about the contact area and pressure applied to the connection. This can NOT be achieved with the thin copper strip touching the conductor in a back wire connection. On any high current carrying circuit this would be the weak point and cause for excessive heat build up. Proper terminations under a screw are always the way to go!

[@lostinmyspace4910]

Gotta a question, Paul. I have a ceiling fan (bronze, and cool looking) that we haven't used in maybe 5 years. Primarily for the wood burning stove to circulate heat. I turned the wall switch on and the fan blades did not rotate (probably from non use), but I heard some slight clicking, or snapping, ever so light sparking of some sort coming from the switch. The switch was installed in 1992. Little by little, I'd turn the switch on another day, and eventually by testing it over several days, it finally started to rotate on its own. Will the fact that the fan may have been stuck from non use cause the wall switch to click a little? It doesn't sound off anymore since the fan now rotates, but we still won't use it. Thanks for responding back Paul.

[@jeffnorbert1871]

The switch needs to be replaced..

[@TheBibleSays]

Replace that switch. Any switch with clicking, snapping, sparking like that is a fire hazard.

[@lostinmyspace4910]

@@TheBibleSays One thing I could never figure out was this: Years ago when I first moved in the house, I recognized the switch needed to be replaced. Went to hardware store, bought a name brand switch, and with the same wiring format, I replaced the switch. It didn't WORK! Tried and tried...nothing. So I called an electrician to do it. He said it was due to the polarity. The polarity was the clue. So he replaced the switch in 1992. It rarely gets used unlike a light switch that goes on and off several times a day. What if I replace the switch on my own? Do I have to be concerned about polarity if I follow the same wiring diagram again?

[@TheBibleSays]

@@lostinmyspace4910 If you replace the old switch with exactly the same new switch, and wire it exactly the same way (black, white and ground) it should work. If there's another, 2nd, switch on the wall that can control the same fan, you likely have 3-way switches involved - and an extra red wire - instead of a normal 2-way switch. In that case it really helps to understand how they work and how to wire them. In either case, you should make sure the house wiring is correct: all too often I've seen houses/apartments with the white wire as hot and the black as neutral. Carefully check with a voltage detector to make you know what's going on inside the wall box. Switching should be done on the "hot" black wire for normal 2-way switches. And be aware that if a switch loop is somehow involved the white wire may also be "hot." Confused? It really helps to have experience and know what you're doing. When in doubt, get help. That sparking may have been a result of the fan being stalled. The sparking likely damaged the contacts inside the switch. Not a bad idea to replace it.

[@lostinmyspace4910]

@@TheBibleSays Paul: Thank you for all your wonderful advise. I'm going to jump right on this, and get this safely completed. I hired an electrician back in '92, I may do just that again versus a potential house fire. Best of luck to all your videos. Man, do you have a wide array of videos out there. I have a wood burning stove that heats our home exclusively( 10-12 cords in winter) with a backup gas furnace when on vacation, and a few trucks for the business constantly checking for maintenance (thank you for your tips), we live on a well and draw ground water, and always checking under the frig for accumulated dust, fabric fibers in the lint catcher and outlet vent of the dryer, and I have learned to do my own maintenance on all my vehicles ( current Ford truck has 290,000 miles) and ONLY replaced the starter at 200,000. All components are original including muffler, tailpipe, cat. converter, alternator. !00% synthetic oil, Royal Purple from the beginning. I can afford a new truck, and my wife drives that. In my truck's lifetime, I want to see if I can reach 400,000 on the F 150, and thus earned honestly the bragging rights. Hail from Michigan!

[@mobayguy]

Thanks! Now I know the RIGHT way ! Proves you're never too old... 👍🏻

[@normhodgkinson6965]

Anyone else think Paul here, looks like Bob (Erics dad) on "That 70's Show" ?

[@normhodgkinson6965]

Stupid me, I meant 'Red', not Bob. Bob was Donna's dad.

[@raymaybury5337]

Dunno, but he sound like Kermit the frog.

[@scottmoore7269]

Thanks,you're right,I had to watch this twice,her does look like Red Foreman! Foots in asses!

[@abc1234567a1]

Norm Hodgkinson we all knew who you meant soon as we seen him.

[@mikemaguire9252]

Most definitely lol

[@clemkadiddlehopper2706]

Vert, very helpful! I just can’t believe how much time I have wasted doing it incorrectly! Thank you!

[@proclaimliberty2000]

Clem Kadiddlehopper 👍😊

[@dreinoehl4660]

Also remember the black wire attaches to the brass coloured screws and white wire to the silver screws, but YOU knew that!

[@MrCatfarmer]

That was the first thing that came to my mind watching this. Was going to say something but seen you already have. Electronics are polarized and this mistake could affect operations of your electronics.

[@garza812]

I did not do that I was about to ask but I’m glad you mentioned it thanks @Chris Reinoehl

[@richardleonard4281]

Oops!

[@PaddyO1958]

A very good point. Thanks. I see folks putting a note not to work with electricity if you are not an electrician and for the most part agree. However we have now entered a phase where enough instructions and proper review will one day allow the ambitious to do nearly any of the trade jobs. Prepare for many changes and if they are handled well all of mankind can benefit. I is rarely smarter than us.

[@ginnymiller2448]

Great video. Thank you for demystifying these things for a common layman. I have learned something today. Thumbs up.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

👍😊

[@robertlyle6277]

Don’t use the rear push-in slots - ever! Also, don’t put two wires on each side of the receptacle - wirenut the two wires with a single pigtail and attach to the receptacle. Hot and neutral wires. (Correctly called the ungrounded and grounded conductors, respectively, in the NEC.) The video is correct with regards to wrapping the wire around the screw. I’m about to begin my 44th year as an electrician, 34 years as a master - and I teach apprentices. Be safe - if you’re not sure, call someone.

[@chadsmith9161]

I understand what your talking about, parallel vs series. The reciptical he has you will need two wires (at least on the hot side), the tab is broken connecting the screws.

[@mellowrebel4618]

QUOTING THE CODE 'No device shall be interdependent on any other device!!!"!!! Meaning PIGTAIL THAT SHITE!!!"

[@RB-xv4si]

Mellow Rebel that’s funny. So how do you expect a gfci receptacle to be able to provide gfci protection to downstream receptacles if you pigtail off the line side?

[@RB-xv4si]

It’s not against code to feed through a receptacle. Why do you think there is a feed-thru rating marked on the box the receptacle comes in? Also, on a gfci receptacle, you have to feed through the device to provide downstream gfci protection. It’s also not against code to use the stab in connectors.

[@robertlyle6277]

Russell Brown - GFCI receptacles don’t have push in slots - you’re thinking of side clevis type terminals, which are fine.

[@thomassawyer6523]

TY for the extra tidbits of information, really helpful.

[@ricksramblerchannel76]

I will never use the push in again. Caused enough loose connections that I called a licensed electrician.

[@ricksramblerchannel76]

M Detlef your a fucking idiot! Only a third grade education and sitting in moms basement behind a monitor and waiting for mommy to cook your dinner!

[@williamglick6593]

Good comments about not using the push in connection. Also don’t buy the cheapest switch or receptacles, the ones with no box loose in a bin. They are made cheap with thin brass plated metal contacts that corrode over time and can cause many problems including fire. Spend a buck or two more for a quality product.

[@crazynanaailese]

simple easy instructions. I thank you so much.

[@gregwarner3753]

Thank you for this basic information. There are people that have never replaced a outlet or a switch. I suggest you add something on stripping wire with out using a fancy wire stripper. Many people would use a knife and nick the wire.

[@SparkitusMaximus]

You can use your tongue to test for electrical voltage.

[@chappell308]

Could I get video?

[@ISLEQUIP]

I lick my fingers one on the hot leg the other on the box. If you feel a tingle power is still on.

[@davidnichols1363]

Make shure you put a puddle of water under your feet.

[@oocollins]

Cracks me up... We can get rid of so much use less people with that idea... 😁😁😁😁😁😁

[@thomasonrockofelt7195]

Hands are enough pal

[@abefroman3903]

direct and to the point thankyou for the lesson . also i always wondered what those round needle nose pliers are used for, now I know

[@homeelectricco]

love watching these " Handy Andy " videos

[@juanmgomezb]

An excellent explanation about how to do it correctly. Thanks

[@Muscleupsanddangles]

If you need to watch this to know, for the love of God, stay away from electrical work.

[@cdrive5757]

Amen Brother!

[@natslesson]

i was all pumped to learn a real trick...... after watching thing im questioning how humanity has survived this long.....

[@582tird]

This is a sure fire test that you need to learn a certified electricians phone number....

[@robinson1509]

The electrician is not born with the knowledge. We all started with the how to wire books. Young guys have to start some where. What kind of thinking is that "if you don't know dont even try".

[@sw4370]

😂😂 Right

[@ironmartysharpe8293]

Especially in kitchens where heating appliances are used , Always use the commercial grade outlets and never use those outlets where you just push the wire in to make the connection , Always use the screw terminals for a much better connection , Bad connections are the number one cause of electrical fires and with heating appliances , Good connections are extremely critical because it will otherwise overheat and catch on fire quickly , The circuit does not have to be overloaded to start a fire , Having a bad connection is enough to start a fire , I always use the commercial or professional grade outlets and switches for added safety

[@curtisshaffer295]

Push in holes can also cause overheating especially the grip type I've seen it many times the ones that tighten with the screw are better but using the screw post is best

[@ottoroth3066]

They can be used in many applications by nutting the run and pulling tails for each individual receptacle....I have found loads vary on the individual receptacle being used along the load and the home run receptacle is the one that fails every time!

[@xrz1138]

What a little gem of a video....and then you add that the gauge on the outlet! LOL Nice! Thank you.

[@xrz1138]

Nice Handle and Avatar you got there too. :0)

[@jokerseriously514]

Never stab the wires in, inrush can cause the wire to pop out! Always wrap the wire around the screw...don't be lazy!

[@MarcoPolo-jg1em]

Ive always stabbed my wires and never had any problems.

[@RB-xv4si]

That’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard. A wire popping out because of inrush? Sorry, I don’t think a household blender is going to cause a wire to pop off its terminal. And if it does, it wasn’t terminated correctly.

[@jokerseriously514]

@@RB-xv4si lighting circuits cause wires to jump...sorry these are really big words and might be out of your league! Keep stabbing wires lazy-ass, and we'll keep fixing your mistakes!! Wow and get out of the trade PLEASE!

[@RB-xv4si]

Joker Seriously hmm. Man, you sure do know a lot about me. For one thing, I never said that I stabbed wires in. I personally prefer to wrap them around the terminal when possible, like most electricians. I am pointing out that it is code compliant to make a stab-in connection and I don’t hate on anyone that does code-compliant work. I have my journeyman’s license in DC and I know the code. That’s all I have to say about that. Have a nice day.

[@RB-xv4si]

Agnus Dei I agree. And I do go above the code in many aspects of my work. But when I see people come unhinged because of a personally held belief, it shows a lack of maturity and a lack of experience in the field. Let me give you a relevant example; there are multiple types of stab in connections on receptacles. There is the type that relies on internal spring pressure to hold the wire in and I don’t prefer to use those (although, again it’s code compliant). Then there is the type that after you stab in, the terminal screws can be tightened and that screw pressure on the pressure plate actually keeps the wire in place, and I have no problem using those. It’s exactly the same concept as terminating a wire on a breaker. I don’t think most of the guys watching this video are aware of this. They just don’t have the experience, so when a licensed guy (or foreman) that they know and respect tells them “never ever stab in you’re connections”, they take it as gospel because they don’t know any better.

[@stevenbyars3384]

In some states and counties the back holes are not allowed. Please check with your local electrical inspector to clarify. Also of note; if the holes in back are used and your local/state code has rules against them and there is a fire, you home insurance can deny coverage because of improper wiring.

[@iancrossley6637]

Also, don't use the cheapo scissor strippers, they nick solid wire and can break. Use a stripper with holes using the correct AWG hole for the wire. I had an open neutral for a while in my shop before we discovered this as the cause.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Any one else hear a mash up of Scotty Kilmer from his auto channel and Leah from See Jane Drill? Just ribbing you mate. Thanks for sharing the info. I know some electricians get bent all out of shape when people share info online, but some people are going to have a go regardless. At the very least, giving them access to good information is important. We don't have that style outlet here in OZ and it's mostly only stranded line. The message is universal though. A poorly made contact is a recipe for problems.

[@neckbonz3152]

Hey MBA- that’s exactly what I heard right off the bat. It definitely sounds a lot like those 2. Especially Leah- she’s awesome and a great teacher. Peace!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

@@neckbonz3152 I'm with you regarding Leah. Really switched on teacher. It's hard to show me something new but she manages to find a way.

[@sambow4u]

As a 40 yr electrician ,,Stanley and Phil are 100% Correct . "Stap in Connections" are a hazard and through time will fail , Causing arcing in the switch or receptacle. Using both side of the receptacle is also not good practical ethics, it is not meant to use as a wire nut. Robert's comment is incorrect in higher amperage connections. proper sized wire nuts are much more secured , especially if you tighten with you strippers , making sure all the wires are caught in the connection and then taping the wires and nut together. Your use of " Snap ring pliers" to make the hook is also Incorrect. They are made for snap rings ! . If you'll look , there is a Hole drilled in your strippers for making " The loop" , That is properly spaced away from the edge of the pliers to properly fit the securing screw. If your going to make a Instructional video , make sure you know what your talking about !

[@MichaelClark-uw7ex]

Exactly, i've been a professional electrician for over 40 years and speedwire(quick stab in connections) receptacles and switches should be outlawed, I can't count how many bad connections and burnt devices I've repaired because of speedwire connections. It takes longer to use screw terminals but I've never had one of mine go bad.

[@thomaslemay8817]

When I purchased the old house I am now living in I opened up all the switch and receptacles and inspected the way the wires were connected about half were done wrong. I corrected all then I went under the house because I noticed most of the wing came up from below. I opened up all the junction boxes and found and repaired several loose connections. All were in my opinion possible hazards.

[@joevogelberger9922]

Never use the push connectors. They make a very small, razor-thin connection point that can't carry much current. Couple of heating/cooling cycles and you'll either end up with an open or an arcing connection.

[@UnlistedRX]

Yes, and if you've ever had to replace one of those with a newer outlet, you know that it is a nightmare to try and get all four of those wires out of there when it's in the middle of a circuit.

[@vincentrobinette1507]

Especially if someone plugs in a space heater: The element won't be the only thing glowing red hot!

[@joevogelberger9922]

@@UnlistedRX I know! Usually I just cut the wires off flush with the receptacle and re-strip them. The wire ends are usually heat damaged anyway. Then I can bend them to fit the screws on the new one.

[@joevogelberger9922]

@@vincentrobinette1507 you know it!

[@johnny-becker]

That guide in the back is quite clever. Never seen it before but such a handy and simple concept.

[@billconserva1461]

Using that Push Lock on a back of a receptacle, should be out a code violation! I have seen many that were lose and some that melted without drawing even 15 amps.

[@germanymcg7491]

I was taught that the wire length guide on the back of the device was the strip gauge for the push connector holes. You might use them as a guide for twisting the wire to attach them to the side screws but that’s not their purpose. You don’t see them on devices that don’t have the grab holes.

[@gbigsangle3044]

You are correct. the guide is to strip for the push in holes. To strip for the screw one must strip more insulation. The danger using the screws is shorting them out. If you strip too much and expose to much wire there is a far bigger danger of shorting the device than using the push in holes and the correct length stripped off for them.

[@StevenBanks123]

Summary : strip enough wire to make full contact with screw.

[@tedl7538]

But not so much that you risk a short circuit.

[@ChipVorhies]

Brilliant, Thank you Steven!!!

[@SuperVstech]

Those needle nose pliers are a work of art.

[@proclaimliberty2000]

SuperVstech Their called round nose pliers 😊

[@jrdoza1980]

I never back stab receptacles they fail often and could burn down your house. I wrap the wire and sometimes wrap tape around the outlet for extra measure.

[@mikesahle1193]

Thank you for sharing your talent & safety way great video. Now what ever happened I dare you for 120 volt !please don't pay attention just a thumbs up will do. Keep smiling with lots of safety and jolt away with smile