Bi Wiring, Bi Amping What is it?

[@chirpingbluebird]

One of the best videos on bi amping, quad amping, bi wiring., Passive vertical bi amping. Awesome

[@AlT-qk4iq]

Awesome video, the best one so far about bi wiring. You should do more videos mate, very informative. Thanks again.

[@quixylvr]

JAMES! So happy to see you in videos - lost track of you after the Car Audio store closed!!!! I literally yelled loud enough my kids came and checked on me when you popped on screen!

[@freespeechoneeach]

i had normal connection 1 wire for right 1 for left. took out jumpers and replaced with quality speaker wire. connected + to high freq - to low frequency. what a difference my 53 year old ears could tell. this small change didnt cost me a penny ! many thanks you just increased my listening pleasure

[@martinburn]

I had my system bi wired with dedicated bi wired, sounded great, I changed my cable and made my jumpers out of same cable, plugged my main amp to speakers into to high end bang utopia.

[@sabiondocolors325]

Thank you very much for your video, time and patience to share your wisdom. My English is not that good, but the way you speak I was able to understand everything you said. Thank you from southern Mexico

[@edwardbustillos7554]

English is my 1st language, and I still couldn't understand! I'm gonna bi-amp today and see if there is an impressive difference. it's been forever since I've seen this video did he ever show how?!?

[@miguelfuentes4967]

Very good video, I now understand more clearly as to how speakers and Amplifiers work. Thanks.

[@Finlayjlo]

I can't describe how much this has helped me understand this.

[@pigsbishop99]

Then you really need to go elsewhere where it's explained properly.

[@zizendorf]

I've watched innumerable videos about cables, interconnects, etc... This the first time I've ever heard a peep about the "bridges" on my speakers' binding posts! Thanks for adding that little comment. I've since "searched" and have found a little more info. Such an area of neglect with all these other discussions taking precedence. Thanks!

[@keithmoriyama5421]

That's because it is pure snake oil.

[@23MikeJ22]

Thankyou for not only clearing this up for me but also showing how to do it😊😊😊

[@oescholido]

Happy New Year Dear Chap. You’ve the most thorough demonstration I’ve seen in my search for HIFI Knowledge, as someone just being introduced to the technical side of sound equipment. Keep up the good work. God keep you.

[@jimmycake7143]

OUTSTANDING JOB LAD.- Johnny, NY USA

[@jup6401]

Bro I saw you in a red Holden the last time, man of many talents you are 👍

[@DonLeonM]

thanks a lot - SUPER thorough explanation :)

[@richpaul8132]

OK, I must first say thank you very much for this video! You answered questions that I've had for years and made me realize that I did a dumb thing! Not only that, but after watching your video and being re-educated, I applied what I learned and it's like I just got another brand new pair of speakers for free! LOL As an audiophile since about 1978, (and I still am). I've never had any speakers that had bi-amp connections until about 1.5 years ago. That's about when I bought my very first pair of Klipsch speakers, (it took that long because I couldn't afford them for most of my life). I need to mention a few things about the way I have some of my system setup before I go on. I have an analog component system and my 'centerpiece' is my Mac MC 2105 power amp. I run all my speakers through an OSD SSVC6D speaker controller, which not only switches each pair of speakers on or off, but also boosts/cuts the volume in 10% increments, passively. I use it to handle the speakers I have in two different rooms. One small room has a pair of small speakers and a 50W powered sub-woofer. However, in the room where I spend most of my time, I have a pair of Klipsch and a pair of Onkyos and they're backed up with a 100W Klipsch powered sub-woofer. So the main listening room has 4 speakers and stereo sound. When I bought the pair of Klipsch speakers, I read the manual but I guess I totally misunderstood the reason for the 4 speaker connections in back of each one. They came with the gold-plated metal strip connecting the 2 red speaker jacks and the 2 black speaker jacks just as you demonstrated in the vid. I never connected the speakers until after I read the manual. In short, I thought the manual was saying that I should leave the strips ONLY if I was going to connect additional speakers in a series configuration. Hence, I removed the strips and plugged my cables to the lower red and black jacks! I never even thought to try them any other way. The Klipsch sounded good but I always thought that they were just better at handling the lower octaves/frequencies. The pair of Onkyos I had (and for which only had two speaker jacks), seemed better at handling the 'brighter octaves. Because both pairs are in the same room, they worked out well and still do. However, after I watched your video of course, I realized that I was NOT supposed to remove those strips. Instead of putting the gold plated strips back in, I took your advice and jumped the 2 red jacks and 2 black jacks with 12 gauge speaker wire. Anyway, there was a huge difference in the sound because now the entire speaker system within each Klipsch enclosure was in effect! The high frequencies and low frequencies were all working together and sounds great! I still have the Onkyos running to better fill the room but I want to thank you for "fixing" my speaker system! Rich

[@RennieAsh]

My friend had an old speaker that had a crossover problem, he also didn't realise when the tweeters were not working. Maybe it's a getting older thing?

[@idaho2085]

Excellent video. Very informative.

[@josegallardos4265]

Thank you so much for showing how to bi wiring, I always wanted to do it but I was afraid I could damage my speakers or my audio receiver, I also didn't know how was the right way to do it. Thanks!!!!

[@amirgat1285]

Great video. can you please tell how to prepare B wire cable or recomend which one to buy? thanks

[@hendrasaputra2620]

Thanks. Very good explanation. Very informative.

[@wallstreetcrash1]

Thanks for posting… now I understand..🙂🇬🇧👍

[@sloboat55]

Thanks for the great video. Very useful information.

[@MEGADETHXTREME]

Great video. Very clear and concise

[@briancampbell7712]

Excellent review...I can't belive some KZbin audiphile reviewers say it doesn't matter...🙄...

[@pigsbishop99]

More current when bi-wired? That's a load of nonsense as is the statement that the amp 'won't have to work as hard'.

[@AN-ce1nd]

I use jumper cables for my Bose 901 speakers with a 100 watt radio shack PA amplifier. Sounds amazing!

[@donaldchamble6897]

Thank you so much for your time and consideration in your post. You explain it all so clearly I will try your tips using two amplifiers. I look forward to seeing another presentation. Later

[@Bart_Depestele]

great video amigo, thank you

[@Psylcosyn]

Gday mate. Good instruction

[@leendertbuijtendijk3603]

The real reason at 9.47 . ...so you can connect expensive speakercables...

[@fedurrrass4226]

Bi amping is good too on avr. When we use stereo mode more power goes to the front towers and use 4 power ends and do bi amp. Just need put on bi-amp on software. It works good on budget speaker towers too. But best is on 3 way crossovers

[@nicoras8803]

You can also divide 16 by 4 you can use rip-cord or you can use welding wire, just keep in mind that the copper on the amplifier PCB or the wiring inside a transistor are less than 1/100th of a mm.

[@EsotericArctos]

Inside the transistor is not really wire. The transistors are generally doped silicon. The resistance and capicitance of your wires will make a difference to the impedance seen by the amplifier, which in turn affects your sound. By how much, that is subjective. You wouldn't use very high resistance cable though, just like they don't use high resistance cable to send mains power to your home. The losses over the cable would just make it very inefficient.

[@-First-Last]

Or maybe some left overs from power utility company.

[@adnan_Ok]

Good info. Penultimate = second last.

[@talkbox360]

What song is that in the intro? Very funky!

[@rajugupta-chaudhary6467]

superb stuff james keep it coming

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

Thanks Raju

[@rangerscoach]

i love how this is incidentally an argument for what meridian do. the final step is to digitally separate the low and high frequencies send only that signal to the appropriate driver. then amplify that frequency with an amplifier that has the specific characteristics to most effectively move the driver. most if not all of the logic here but without the audiophile lego we all enjoy so much. 🤣🤣 the problem with this approach is that we dont get to tinker with our systems which is what we secretly want even if we dont admit it. there's nothing quite like a critical listening session over a few glasses of a good wine when you've just changed the spikes on the speakers your listening to. OMG Anette Askik sound like shes here with us!!

[@ThePapa41]

Excellent video, loaded with info. The only thing I didn't see was using selective wire type for high frequency and low frequency. Louis

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

With good enough speakers you can actually hear the difference different qualities of speaker wire make so some people invest in higher grade speaker wire for their high frequency connections for increased clarity.

[@TheJorgen77]

So awesome and thank you so much now i completely understand Bi-Wiring... but what on earth is the brand and model of that beautiful amp (the big one :-) ) again totally good and informative video so even i understand it ;-)

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

Accuphase.

[@handsomemathews]

Awesome tutorial about bi-wiring and bi-amp configurations. Never seen a video this much content in them..

[@edwardbustillos7554]

Too much content! Come on now!

[@jonathanpalmer155]

Cleaning off the crud that had collected on the metal jumpers would have improved the connection. A contact cleaner used regularly would work wonders if you use spade rather than banana plugs.

[@patthewoodboy]

works the same with all connections , reason putting in a different cable makes a difference , you just cleaned the contacts :-)

[@MrBrymstond]

Each speaker has to have its own crossover for roll-off. Passive or Active if your amp doesn't have separate tone controls for A/B so the speaker doesn't put out frequencies beyond its optimal output plus you need a switch so your crossovers work in concert with each other if you should only use one amp with two channels or two mono blocks.

[@rangerscoach]

i never heard that so does that mean the full range is being sent to the drivers but they are ignoring the frequencies outside what they can play? i always thought that the signal being split digitally first would be optimal like the meridian designs but i have heard stuff that i thought sounded better than meridian too. TBH i think there is no end to this and i have to learn to love my stereo it cost me 20k! its enough. i am enough hahaha

[@informedchoice2249]

Very useful thank you.

[@lemmy37]

Really good video.

[@AliRafati-xk9jg]

Is there any benefit at all to running two sets of cables to the high and low frequencies of the speaker in bi wiring formation if my integrated amp has speaker A and speaker B output (so speaker A feeds high and speaker B feeds low). I have had completely contradictory advice on this from two separate dealers. For clarity - It is not an AV amp with specific bi amp terminals but a regular (good quality and high power) integrated amp with two sets of speaker outputs. Many thanks in advance.

[@simlowsb]

Hello mate. In your bi-wiring set up, are you using 8TC cables with banana jacks?

[@vicg5323]

Nice video. I would not normally bi wire but I will try it to bypass the jumpers.

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

Thats the idea. Try it, see if it works, if it does then great, if it doesn't, oh well it was a fun experiment. This guy gets it.

[@clintfarrell1070]

I would like to see what the difference in listening would be. Post another video with a you giving a quick listen to each configuration and sharing the results.

[@seanmckinnon4612]

How about taking some measurements with smaart or a similar analysis program and calibrated mics

[@-First-Last]

ZERO !!!

[@markcarrington8565]

Good illustration of the physical connectivity of bi-wiring, however, you failed to mention one of the key reasons why there is so much difference to a standard two wire set up. Despite the connections at the amp being common, the signal travelling down each wire is not the same. The HF wire only carries the high frequencies and the same for the low frequencies. If you don't believe, me put an oscilloscope across the wires. This happens because the crossover elements in the speakers are still doing the job of filtering out the unwanted frequencies for each set of drivers. This means that the cables are not carrying as much current and also there is less crosstalk between the HF and LF in the system. In my own set up I had a pair of 5m cables. As the amp was now located between the speakers, I decided to bi-wire and I could do it without having to buy wire! There were four potential improvements. First, cables half the length. Second, removal of the plate interlinks. Third, double the amount of cable for carrying the same total current. Fourth, reduced crosstalk due to frequency separation. Result was a stunning improvement in the detail levels, stereo resolution, bass definition, I could go on. If you have speakers with this capability it's an essential upgrade.

[@chris198004]

if you are biwiring then the signal will be the same at the speaker end. since its the same source. the signal is exactly the same on both sets of ends. unless you have some sort of filter somewhere on the cable. if its bi amped or active then yes there will be a difference.

[@markcarrington8565]

You're right, it would need a filter, however, there is a filter; the crossover. Just because you're bi-wiring doesn't mean you remove the crossover entirely, each drive unit retains its filtering elements. Passive bi-amping also still relies on the crossover in the speaker. In an active configuration, the crossover sits between the pre and power amps, of course.

[@chris198004]

@@markcarrington8565 yes the crossover is between the cable and the driver. the signal at the end of the cable is the same is what i'm saying. you said the HF wire carries only highs and vice versa for low even being a common connection at the amp end. that's not the case unless its actively done at the amp in which case you would need 2 separate pairs of cables, HF AND LF. bi-wiring carries the same signal to both sets of cables at the speaker end and as you say the crossover does the filtering. there is no HF AND LF in bi wiring as such, just two pairs of cables at one end.

[@markcarrington8565]

chris198004 , I suspect you will not be convinced by anything I say, however, I will attempt to explain it better. Between the speaker post on the amp and the terminal on the cone is a continuous circuit made of speaker wire and a filter, with elements appropriate to the driver in between, typically a capacitor on the HF side and inductor on the LF side. This filter does exactly what you expect, it prevents current from flowing at frequencies that would damage the driver. It does not matter that the filter happens to be mounted close to the cone, it filters the signal in the whole cable between speaker post and drive unit. The only common element between the two wires is the potential difference, or voltage at the speaker post, which is the same. To drive a speaker, however, you need current to flow and the crossover elements on each wire ensure the two sets of wires only carry current appropriate to their driver cone.

[@chris198004]

@@markcarrington8565 i totally get that mark. im well aware of how a crossover works. all im saying is the cable itself has no change in signal from one end to the other which is what you said! you stated that the cable has different signals for HF and LF on a bi wired setup. that is not the case. I quote " Despite the connections at the amp being common, the signal travelling down each wire is not the same.The HF wire only carries the high frequencies and the same for the low frequencies. If you don't believe, me put an oscilloscope across the wires" that is simply not the case, if the amp end is common then the other end carries the same signal BEFORE entering the crossover network. no matter how many ends are on that one cable. YES the CURRENT carrying capacity will be lower due to splitting the cable however the audio signal will be the same. im talking about the cable itself BEFORE it connects to the speaker and crossover. i believe that your first statement was about the wire not speakers.

[@romanlewandowski9616]

It certainly looks good, I have good hearing I have spent hundreds in by wiring and by AMP Ing.By amping is certainly better than by wiring and even then I couldn’t hear any difference.

[@__Dude_]

Exactly. This whole business is psychoacoustics going the wrong way.

[@RennieAsh]

Audiophiles : Using the jumper bars on speakers is bad! Also audiophiles : uses tiny relay switch to route audio for speakers A or B. Out of sight, out of mind

[@solomonk2161]

Nice video... Cheers

[@LEIMAHMOOD]

Kimber monocle xl wire is directional or non directional??

Nice and informative video. Thanks for sharing.

[@markdoherty2750]

Great video, I’ve been Bi Amping my Castle Harlech for years with Audiolab power amps but would love to try x4 mono blocks to hear the difference!👍🏼🍻

[@sleelakrishnan]

I have already followed up few years back the same 😊

[@sleelakrishnan]

Now ended up with clipping or default bridges 💟☮️

[@sleelakrishnan]

My dealing experts well guided me throughout the same 🥰😍😘

[@sleelakrishnan]

Also THE AUDIO PEOPLE CHENNAI ☺️

[@jrg1man1978]

I don't believe he understands what he's talking about, IMO. The engineering of it. The only reason to bi-wire is because all wire systems don't sound the same and you can get into the nitty gritty of voicing your system. You're using wiring as a tone control, and that's fine. You do reduce resistance, but that's not going to really affect the sound per say and only nominally the ability of your amp to deliver power. The statement about delivering tremendously more current is nonsense. Once the gauge doesn't get in the way, in most cases it's 6-12 awg, it's the relationship of the amp and speaker. Period. If you run 2 runs of the same wire from the same amp, you'll not experience a significant difference. Use, say Kimber on the bottom and Audioquest on the top, that's voicing. Bi-amping will give you more headroom, but it's not a linear relationship of watts per DB and an expensive proposition. There's nothing wrong with any of it to try, but understand the engineering.

[@Texashog11]

One other issue is I believe if you use different amps the wattage of the two can be different (higher wattage for the woofer and lower wattage for the tweeter which doesn’t need the higher wattage) but the gain of the amps need to match.

[@seedood]

Excellent video. Thanks.

[@richardconrad2826]

Reasoning for the jumpers was to drop ohms so amp would produce a higher wattage output.

[@AnxiousSeeker]

Hi, this was really helpful!! Thank you! Gonna bi-wire my B&W’s!

[@82godoy]

Isn't the bridge plate there so you don't have to use 2 sets of wires for bi-wiring?

[@briancampbell7712]

if using a 2 channel intigrated amp with A & B A+B...is it better to run biwire from A only with biwires or 2 seperate speaker wires 1 from A and 1 From B ?

[@steved2667]

Bi-wiring is worthless.

[@shaunrichards744]

Wrong, have you even tried it. Made a difference to my Polk ATI 5As because it’s been designed for that purpose with the crossover inside notable separation of the lows and highs, soundstage and better mids. But you have to buy ready made bi wiring cables, I recommend WBC Worlds best cables from different manufacturers cables. Amazon shopping has all your needs.

[@Synthematix]

Yes on cheap speakers

[@phill7507]

I have klipsch. The r-f26a. 6 total posts on one speaker tower. Top posts for atmos and bottom 4 for HF and LF. I have been running bi wiring. What ya think about bi amping off a Yamaha rx-v6a 7.2. Also would that limit it being a 7.2 and make it a 5.2? I currently have it being a 5.1. Still on the fence if I want an additional sub.

[@andreassouth1523]

Which jumpers do you propose for wharfedale diamond 225?Some say that with biwiring you have a larger amount of mid/ treble to the speakers?Is it true?What is your opinion. In case you don't like very "open or bright" sound, this could be a problem.For those who like bright sounding speakers wf 225 has a little "dark sound" but for me is a non faitguing sound.Very nice educational video!

[@RennieAsh]

Bi-wiring wouldn't do anything to that imo. Bi amping of course you will need to match the levels . If you really wanted to do anything just make some little wire jumpers if you really dislike the metal bars. Otherwise I feel this extra stuff is for when you have too much money xD it's like making half an active speaker without making an active speaker, but costing a lot more

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

great video......cheers man

[@kimchuanlim5392]

Tq for sharing,very useful

[@simonlee5799]

Very well explained. Thank you!

[@korringadinga8407]

Hello and thank you for the video. It really helped me decide if I want to bi-wire my Klispch speakers or not. May I ask your advice? My set up is Yamaha Aventage A-3080 AVR Klispch RP-280 Front (Bi-Wireable) RP-450C Center RP-250 Surround (Bi-Wireable) R-820F Surround back (may upgrade to RP-280’S) RP-140SA Atmos x4 R-115SW x1 I want the most out of my setup so would you suggest Bi-Wiring the speakers? And if so, what gauge wire do you suggest? Lastly, the Aventage is a decent AVR, but would I benefit from Bi-Amping it? And again, if so, what amp do you feel would complement the AVR and speakers?

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

I don’t feel that you would benefit much from biwiring.

[@RennieAsh]

Bi-wiring : a way to spend double on cables Bi-amping : a way to spend double on cables and double on amplifiers There could be a benefit to bi amping if you want to change levels of bass driver to mids/tweeter perhaps. Or if you want to flavour the sound with some non standard amp

[@ekimandersom4478]

Bi amping would also increase or double the power.

[@keithmoriyama5421]

Bi-amping means the mid/hi pack is receiving a pure and independent signal separate from the bass at the head of it's cross/over and not in conjunction with the bass cross/over network. This yields a significant difference, auditory and in speaker performance. The greatest advantage being if the network is electronically divided. Bi-wiring yields NO difference over just running a single pair into the entire speaker. Still, I prefer to wire this way with separate connectors on both speaker and amp. Lower resistance gauge, and separate inductance in each wire. It's the best connection you can make whether you can hear it or not.

[@theelectricsheep8204]

Trust me I like good audio, but the whole biwiring thing is so overrated, and it could be proved with a blindfold listening test.

[@MrBrymstond]

You do need a separate crossover for each speaker in the cab for roll-off so each speaker doesn't go beyond its optimal range, this makes the difference.

[@theelectricsheep8204]

@@MrBrymstond I could see how that would make a difference.

[@LeeTanczos]

@G Guest the little bridges... let you do the A B testing :-)

[@MarkBadia]

If you have speakers that are biwireable but you only have one set of speaker wires and have the bridge plate in place. My question is if it is better to connect the one set of speaker wires to the low-frequency or high-frequency posts? I have always connected to the low-frequency post given that bass response requires more power than treble, so, my thinking is any reduction in signal strength going over the bridge plate should have less of an effect on the treble than on the bass response. Also, I noticed in the video you showed two speakers that were biwireable but only had to connections, not four. In both cases, you had the speaker cables connected into the low-frequency post. I understand that the Monitor Audio Platinum speakers had the cable connector vs the bridge plate, but the others did not and you were still connected to the Low-Frequency post. Given your comment on lost fidelity going over the bridge plates, why aren't you connecting the speaker cables to the high-frequency post instead of the low-frequency post?

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

Its a little bit of a 50/50 toss up. connecting the wires to the low input posts gives better bass response but sacrifices a small amount of fidelity that only experienced listeners can hear. Connecting to the highs posts gives that fidelity back but on thirsty speakers that like a lot of power can reduce the strength of the bass. Most of the time (for most listeners), it's not going to matter what posts you connect to so I usually dont take notice of which ones I use. When you're demoing speakers to someone who could hear those differences, I would be much more likely to bi-wire them anyway to prevent any potential loss of any kind. A good middle ground would be to connect the + wire to the + highs post and the - wire to the - Lows post.

[@OscarSanchez-tk3hx]

Recently I m using audio quest 14 gage pure Cooper on a biwired mode pure clean sound and Dynamics don't need to buy expensive cables

[@CT-vl3iu]

....appreciate your explanation here ...excellent video!,..just one question,...when you send 2 separate connections (bi-wiring) to a speaker (one set to High and second set to low frequency ) from a stereo amp that has 8 binding post ( A and B)..with 85wpc ...would your speakers get 170w each?...Left speaker 170w and right 170w??...OR 85w for the high frequency driver and 85w for the low frequency drivers...truly appreciate your help

[@kusgilb]

It's basically a voltage divider circuit and the watts per speaker depends on the impedance of each LF and HF speaker. It both LF and HF have the same impedance then each would divide the current equally and thus each would get the same amount of watts.

[@CT-vl3iu]

@@kusgilb thank you,...appreciated!

[@puneetbajra]

Awesome video 👍👍

[@Ali-x6t7r]

Hi kimber kable or nordost?

[@ВладимирПутин-е7м]

Nice piece of kit. What is that amp?

[@Alexander-zs5rj]

Is it worth by most Loudspeakers.. I have a Yamaha AX870 with Infinity Kappa 90 , with a Bridge at the Kappa‘s and than without and Bi-Amping ; huge different how better they reproduce the music WOW , and with same Power Level by the Amp they are a lot of louder than before.

[@Nandocupra]

Question… I have bi Wired speakers but I only use them single wired. Does is matter use the upper or lower entry on the speaker unit?

[@locmanw1583]

Do Accuphase integrated class AB models sound close to the pure class A models?

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

Can't beat Class A

[@locmanw1583]

@@SoundlineAudioNewZealand True thanks 😊

[@andymackenzie3176]

thanks mate!

[@sujoybhuiya7578]

Please provide cable details with buy link Amazon 🙏

[@Dilyaev]

Bi wiring, using different cables for HF and LF but in the same length, should cause any problems? thought of silvers on top and copper on bottom.

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

Not a problem at all, actually quite a common practice to put the thinner better cables on highs and cheaper but meatier cables on lows.

[@johnnycarreon9632]

Hi! I have a question, I have 7.1 Monitor Audio Silver set of speakers and I only have McIntosh MC312 stereo amplifier with 300watts each channel, I want to connect all my speakers to this amplifier, do you think my amplifier can drive my speakers to their full strength without losing any performance and speakers not in risk? I’m planning to bi-wire them but I’m afraid to do it. Can you give me good advice please? Thank you! I really like your video.

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

This is just a 2ch amp and it has different binding posts for different impedances of speakers. So whatever the impedance of the speakers you are hooking up is, that's the terminal you need to use.

[@choiluu5627]

Cool, man ..........

[@arpeemac]

why would those jumpers "deteriorate" the signal? 2 inches of pure copper from HF to LF do not really make a significant difference in terms of signal transfer imo.

[@MaxMineur]

It's just a mental thing. Also, it's pretty hilarious he says that inch of copper is the weakest link because it deteriorates high frequecies but they still have the connectors on the low frequency inputs.

[@czakolo]

arpeemac , Electrons flows on the surface of metal and that is why stranded wire can carry more Amperes than solid piece of metal. Maybe that is a reason.

[@Smedleydog1]

A lot of money wasted on expensive cables in this video. You might be able to measure a difference, but the chances of being able to hear a difference are between slim and none. Any decent speaker wire, multiple strand, 12ga or larger will sound the same to 99% of the population. Those little flat jumpers between the speaker input terminals are short, wide (a lot of surface area) and have virtually no resistance. This guy is a salesman, probably working on commission. But if you have the money to spend and it makes you happy, so be it.

[@czakolo]

@@Smedleydog1 I fully agree that most people (like me) will not hear difference, and any good quality stranded wire might do (I don't buy expensive for sure), but this "large" piece of metal has a lot of wasted surface. This piece of metal has surely less surface than equivalent mass stranded wire. Of course I am not saying that this salesman is right, I am saying he might be.

[@Smedleydog1]

@@czakolo Without using the math that I haven't used much since school, I would say they are about the same surface area on both sides of the jumper as 12 or 14ga multiple strand speaker wire. I have them on the back of my Klipsch speakers and using a VOM, the resistance is 0. Also in the video he mentions that speakers costing thousands a pair that use the flat metal jumpers. I still think that it's marketing hype.

[@TheWally666999]

Worth a listen great sales man but is all he's talking about factual I think I'm going to buy a set of diamond incrusted jumper blades definitely going to make sure they cost than two thousand pounds😅

[@gustavodel6919]

BUENA EXPLICACION GRACIAS

[@LC-ur8gv]

Is bi-amping, passive or active, intended only for passive speakers then?

[@jerrypartington3650]

In a true active system the cross-over, ie splitting the signal into bass/mid and treble is performed by a powered crossover located between the preamp and poweramp at line level. So a typical 2 way loudspeaker would require 4 channels of amplification, each of which would be fed only bass/mid or only treble depending on the speaker drive unit it was driving. In a passive system the cross over is performed after the power amplification with the cross-over typically located inside the speaker cabinet and powered by the music signal, which is a huge source of loss and distortion. A properly designed and installed active loudspeaker will be far more accurate and requires only modest amplification to produce any given level. A passive cross-over is basically why many speakers are power hungry, it saps the amps power dissipating it as heat, as well as creating phase shifts.

[@LC-ur8gv]

@@jerrypartington3650 thanks a lot!

[@y2kcurran]

When bi-wiring you mentioned it doesn't matter what black or red terminal you wired into - this was in reference to those vertically below, how about using 4 terminals in a row? My Marantz PM6006 is wired like that, just wondering if that makes a difference..

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

On that amplifier, the purpose of speaker A&B is mainly to be able to select between two zones or two sets of speakers so I would probably just stick with standard wiring.

[@Nicepackage]

How can bi amping work without an electronic a crossover? you can asign full range frequencies to all the drivers. Thanks

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

There are still in line crossovers inside the speaker. There is one for the highs and one for the lows, they are connected to seperate sets of binding posts.

[@edmondenterprisesgrouphold3782]

GOOD info thanks

[@ronbent4725]

Hey there, new to your channel and I really like the advice. Got a question, I have a Yamaha RXA3080 and wanted to know if it makes sense to run a Pioneer M-72 amp through the Yamaha pre-outs to bi-amp front LSI-9 Polk speakers or just use one of the Yamaha's channels not being used on my 5.1.2 set up? Thanks Ron

[@RonLykins]

Good explanation of the differences and methods of bi-wire and bi-amp. A Gimbal for your camera would greatly improve the video when handholding. It would smooth out the motion of the camera as you move around .

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

Cheers Ron. Since film ing this video we have invested more in our video production and now have a cameraman and better gear so newer videos should look much smoother.

[@chriss881000]

Just bought myself a Yamaha rn-803d amp. And om the manual, Yamaha show how to bi wire. But They use Port A and B on the amp. Everywehere else ppl use just the A Port. How is that?

[@SoundlineAudioNewZealand]

Thats Bi-amping which is different to biwiring. Thats just yamahas way of distributing a bit more power to the same speakers.

[@chriss881000]

@@SoundlineAudioNewZealand no its bi wiring. The yamaha manual is rubbish anyway. Dont know why they show a and b ports on bi wiring.

[@jonathanpalmer155]

@@chriss881000 No doubt to make it easier to connect 2 sets of cables - spade terminals always make worse connections than banana plugs, so one set of cables would be at a disadvantage otherwise.

[@Sluggerrr]

I have 2 klipsch rp8000f ii front left and right tower speakers with an onkyo tx-nr6100 7.2 channel receiver. Today i decided to bi amp the speakers. Everything improved the highs mids and definitely the bass, but there is one problem... some sounds have moved to opposite direction i can notice this in certain songs ive always listened to and especially in games. When i test the left and right channels on the setup i can hear both at the same time instead of hearing just one speaker when switching between left and right. I can also tell it sounds more to the left when it should be only the right speaker making noise and vice versa. Is this a normal thing when bi amping?? Or is something wrong? I double checked all the connections and they are done correctly. I kind of regret bi amping them now because its a pain in the butt to get behind the system and put the jumpers back on... games are useless to me now since the sound is on opposite directions.

[@f430ferrari5]

@Luis. My suggestion would be to first experiment and stop the bi-amping. Does the left and right return back to how you expect. If yes, then re-think or re-double check what should think is the right channel vs left. Think about it. If you’re facing the back of the receiver what you think is right may be left. Companies that make receivers/amps are not always consistent. Again think about it. If you go back and sit down then suddenly the left channel becomes your right? Believe it or not some manufacturers mix up left and right internally so it’s labeled wrong in the back. So even after checking or re-wiring and you have the same problem just flip it around and see if the problem is fixed. Good luck.

[@Sluggerrr]

@@f430ferrari5 i was able to fix the problem by installing banana plugs on my speaker cables, apparently some strings from the wire were not fully inserted correctly which i believe might have caused the issue. So yes banana plugs is the way to go... thanks for your suggestion

[@niteshnair1246]

Mates put a lot of effort into creating the video. Very well explained.

[@fulesmackofule]

I did the bi-amping, and the sound - even after recalibrating the speakers - was muddy: powerful, but imprecize bass, very harsh highs, mid was not creating any room. One cable is a shorter 2,5mm2 cross surface I used for the highs, the other one is a longer 4mm2 cross surface that I used for the lows. Is it the amp that is crappy, or the cables really have to have the same properties to do bi-amping? Of course, I removed the interconnecting wires between the speaker poles to keep the right impedance. Out of curiousity, I swapped the pairs in between high and low posts, and it didn't really do much difference, I expected hissing or lost sound due to filters of the speaker. Any tip? I have a Pioneer SC-LX88, I used the Top middle for highs, Front for lows as per the manual.

[@rusoxelruso]

You see how this bi-amp snake oil is really not helping achieve better sound? You don't need an extra amplifier if one is big enough. There are perfectly good passive crossovers in the speakers and all this complicated engineering problems have been solved for you, once you bought an amp and 2 speakers. All this video is adding nothing.

[@hosseinhammadihh]

Awesome!

[@MrBrymstond]

Now say you're running 2.1 speakers on your boom box you build and you have 100 watts per channel two channels driven so 200 watts total, but they used two chips on the board designed BTL normally 50 watt per channel using only one chip, they tie the each of the two chips together so the one chip that's normally stereo is now mono at twice the power and two chips together so you can't bridge them down to mono, but you need 400 watts for a center sub-woofer, can you run two 200 watt Class D or AB mono block amps together, will it work or do I need isolation?

[@scottmoon2849]

Awesome clip 👍👍👍 I've got a question just wondering if I had a sony 7.4 AMP plus two subwoofer volume control amps sony and a pioneer 5.1 AMP would I be able to do the same thing?

[@MansoorAli-xj6mb]

How does the source sound get to both amplifiers?

[@GSP-76]

You use RCA wires to go from the receiver/processor to the amplifier. If your using just a receiver as the amplifier, the wire is made with two connectors on both ends.

[@carsonbrown1498]

Very helpful, learned alot

[@matthewtodd3879]

Brilliant ,well done

[@dowboykfx470]

Only thing that makes sense and it's worth the extra copper actually bi-amping or AKA runing active