I Tried to Sew With No Pattern Adjustments (NEVER AGAIN!)

[@VintageonTap]

Thanks everyone for your lovely comments! Doing this video was a fun experiment and I'm so glad it further validated what I preach on this channel - specifically around doing muslins and really learning and being comfortable with your measurements. Let me know in the comments if you want to see a dedicated fitting video for this dress!

[@deanalovessewn6117]

Hi Bianca!! I about chocked on my tea when you said you were just cutting out & sewing.. You the queen of ‘make a muslin, don’t ruin your fashion fabric’!!!! Happy to see you fixed it so you could wear it.. My heart is aching for you because: Honestly, I don’t think your happy w/it yet, cause you still need more adjustments to make it fit & be wearable.... 💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵

[@VintageonTap]

You're 100% right that I'm still not fully happy with it haha I'm already plotting and scheming the adjustments I want to make to get the fit at least closer to the general ballpark. Thinking besides the narrow shoulder adjustment, potentially bringing up the arm-scythe so my bra isn't out on full display + figuring out what the "real" waist is for me on the pattern so I can actually sew in the shirring and have it fit right!!

[@lizcademy4809]

Excellent video, as usual! And you were brave to attempt this. I have similar fitting issues, and I found I need to ignore the body measurements chart on many patterns, and use the finished garment measurements taking my desired ease into account. For example, on this dress I would need a size 8 by the body chart, but a 4 on the finished bust chart. [The waist and hips are huge, not an issue.] Because I have tiny shoulders, this usually helps a lot. I would have also tried the dress on and marked where *I* would need the waist shirring ... but I understand why you didn't want to do that. I would also check length before even buying the fabric - I'm short enough that I can buy 1/4 to 1/2 yard less fabric than the pattern states, and I'm a cheapskate :)

[@AdirondackRuby]

I always ignore pattern sizing and go right to measuring the flat pattern pieces. I can go down a good 4 to 6 sizes on some garments, based on how I want them to fit and the amount of ease added. And here's a virtual high five for being a cheapskate!

[@MarieObscured]

It's possible to go by the finished garment size and not the sizing chart?? This makes so much sense! So you find your finished measurements + desired ease, make a muslin, and go from there?

[@AdirondackRuby]

@@MarieObscured Yup! Because different pattern companies use different ease, sometimes it's even different from pattern to pattern. So looking on the pattern piece itself for the finished measurement is much more helpful in determining the size you need.

[@kateb1462]

That was fun and I think it just reinforced for my why I don't buy a lot of ready to wear dresses in a woven. I just don't have a standard measurement wise body. And it goes to show why even with the extra effort making a muslin is worthwhile. I'm glad you were able to alter the dress to make you happier with it.

[@VintageonTap]

Thank you, Kate! And ya-- this dress was a good reminder for me to stick to making a muslin-- I've yet to find something that fits right from the package!

[@sewingwithjazz]

I do love the fabric you chose for your dress. Really suits you. I have the same fitting issus but found vintage half size patterns and they are a blast. I was able to cut a size 24½ bust half size straight out and ( i still made a muslin first) can now say i wouldnt change a thing. 🎉 maybe half sizes are what you need too

[@dlsgl407]

First, the background music is perfect! Love your approach, and having the guts to just do the thing! Thanks for the video :)

[@velvetycleopatra]

I can't get this dress to work for me. I'm not particularly petite in terms of height but the elastic was still really low on me. I found a wide elastic belt helped me but I'm totally going to rip out my shirring! I still haven't hemmed it because I'm just not sure about it 🥲

[@VintageonTap]

I totally understand where you're coming from with the elastic waist placement. In the end I went against ripping out the elastic because of all the rows of puncture holes which will be more obvious over 4.5" of the waist 😖 It's a total shame!!

[@inkblue28]

I recently moved to korea from nyc a few months ago. I relied on patterns 100%, but now that I'm in korea I have no idea where to even buy patterns, and I hate taping pdf patterns together. I started drafting when I got here, I have never been able to make pants, now I have pants I drafted that I wear everyday. They are by no means perfect, but 10 times better than the pants I was making from patterns. Adjusting patterns is crazy hard, its easier to just start from zero. Also fabric is really cheap here so I don't make muslins anymore, but the cheapo fabric doesn't drape as nice and the color fades fast. Try drafting, not relying on patterns is alot like cooking without a recipe. I know everything will generally fit because its off my measurements. Plus I dont have to worry about being a certain dress size. I think the dress looks great on you, sewist tend to be perfectionists, and the next one will be even better.

[@VintageonTap]

Pattern drafting is the one thing I haven't tipped my toe in 100%!! I know it'll help SO MUCH in the long term, but definitely have to do some research and lots more learning to make it a reality! Super happy to hear how well it's working out for you, though, it's such a good vote of confidence at how much more it has helped!

[@flower-uw1hm]

I am a petite pear shape. Hence I sometimes have HUGE problems getting patterns to fit me. Although I do find some patterns that fit me really well without alot of adjustment. Maybe I should just keep sewing those tried and true patterns. But like everybody else I like to try different patterns, and some patterns I cannot resist buying.

[@VintageonTap]

The allure of the perfect new pattern is REAL! I think this one ended up being a fun experiment because I was lulled into a false sense of security with it being a popover dress!! Lesson learned haha

[@LizVonVillas]

Loved this one, Bianca! You made it work! 👏🏻 Also.....Tuna is so naughty, she cracks me up 😂

[@VintageonTap]

She's too damn much 🥸!!!

[@rebekkawacherhausenwichman236]

Such pretty fabric! I was having high hopes for your dress😊 but I think You proved your point. I guess the time spent making adjustments from the start saves you the work and agony in the end. I’m never a straight size out of the package - I always need to lengthen the torso and hip area, and need to blend 2-3 sizes, just to be able to wear the garment... but I guess I’m use to it by now. When a sewing project end up having a good fit it just brings me extra joy, and I often sew several versions. Your dress is still totally cute. Maybe you can fix the shoulders with ribbon ties of the same fabric like on the Gertie Hepburn tie top?

[@VintageonTap]

Thanks so much for your comment, Rebekka! Definitely strengthens my resolve in making muslins for everything!! But absolutely with you about making several versions of the things that work out super well! I'm not giving up on this pattern, though haha! I think I'll be doing the changes to the base pattern since the design + options are cute, and then make a few from there (even with the fix, it's comfy!)

[@kckazcoll1]

I would love to make a dress with no adjustments, i would save so much time! Sorry it didn't turn out well. I have a cat just like yours 😍

[@VintageonTap]

Sewing with no adjustments would be a dream!! And yey for Cat Twins!! They bring so much joy~

[@raraavis7782]

The dress has an interesting design, though. It seems to me, that it could be adapted to very different styles, depending on the fabric and accessories. The perfect 'blank canvas' summer dress, so to speak. Have you ever tried one of those 'pattern making' websites, where you get an individualized pattern after putting in some measurements?

[@VintageonTap]

Definitely a design that lends itself to a bunch of different styles! I'm already thinking of the pattern adjustments I want to do to it so I can actually make it fit off the bat, since it was a quick sew (minus the hiccup!) Haven't tried one of those pattern making sites but I've heard good things! Do you have one that you recommend?

[@joellewatkins5528]

I have been wanting to try a pattern that has cup sizes, but wanted to know how that worked. Thank you for that! I'm also short waisted and make so many adjustments. so I feel your pain. My cat does the same thing when I'm sewing.

[@VintageonTap]

For the cup sizes, it's totally a double edged sword! The higher cup size might account for the bust... but it may not account for any of the other fundamentals like shoulder width, arm scythe depth (which I found was too much on this pattern for me) and all the other bells and whistles. It helps in SOME ways (more space around that *one* area) but the rest still needs heavy adjustment. And Tuna was a trouble maker this time around! She likes to sit with me while I work, but this was the first time a paw touched the machine!!!

[@AdirondackRuby]

Bianca: "I don't want to do adjustments." Me: "I feel ya." Bianca: "...so I'm going to do shirring." Me: " ... " LOL...I am so scared to try shirring. That seems WAY more complicated than something like an FBA, to me. Someday I might take the leap...maybe. I'm scared of twin needles too. I tried them once and followed all the directions, but an inch into a hem one of the needles snapped off. Too anxious to try it again.

[@eqrfgs55]

Hey, I had the same fears, but my mum stepped in and told me to try on scraps of rectangle fabric - you'll get over your fears quickly and gain confidence to try these new skills on actual fabrics for garments!! Please try and let us know how you get on! ❤️❤️❤️

[@AdirondackRuby]

@@eqrfgs55 Thanks. Just need to give myself a pep talk. 😆

[@VintageonTap]

LOL I'm right there with you!! It's been years since I had used elastic thread and it look me quite a few tries to make sure the machine was set up properly and everything was ready to go! But honestly, once you get the machine going and it's shirrin' up the fabric, you'll be on a roll!

[@selenabennett-chaffins1570]

I just made this dress too! I held off on the shirring since I wasn't sure where I wanted it placed and am planning to just belt it for now! In future versions I'm going to brave it, but like you I just wanted something quick.

[@VintageonTap]

In those future versions, would definitely recommend using the belt placement on your first version as a guide for where to put the placement. Had I made the non-shirred version, my belt would have sat at least 4" higher than the designated shirring band.

[@marilynwood6934]

If I make or even buy a garment for my bust or belly size the armholes are always gigantic!

[@VintageonTap]

Same, Marilyn, SAME!!

[@Mialinna7]

I would just unpick the shirring and sew shirring further up where your waist is, no need for cutting it

[@VintageonTap]

Unfortunately it was 4.5" of stitching, which would have left several inches of very visible unpicking around the waist! Maybe next time I'll give it a shot in a more forgiving fabric :)

[@ZDGrant123]

I really don't understand the point of using the pattern straight when you know you have a short torso and body, I get you want easy but unless you buy a custom fitted pattern it's literally never going to work and you know that. You just wasted your time and energy for no reason.

[@VintageonTap]

The whole point of the video was to experiment with a pop over dress to see if it would work on me. Even with it being a pain mid-process, it was a fun experience and it further solidified what I preach on this channel 😉 Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.