Bicycle Cross Chaining: Facts and Myths

Cross chaining explained: We have been taught that cycling in the large chainring large cog or small chainring small cog is a no no. This bicycle gearing combination is called cross chaining. We can see that the chain is at a steep angle compared to the most efficient chain line which is parallel to the frame. We've been told that the rule is you'll have less power and will wear the chain excessively. But lets have a closer look.
Wattage lose: The power loss is minimal as noted in the video from GNC in the above right.
Wear to the chain: Unless you ride constantly in either of these combinations (i.e., long periods of time), the wear with today's chains is also minimal and far less then riding with a dirty or grimy chain.
So what are the main downsides cross chaining:
1. Noise.
a. In the SMALL chainring / SMALL cog
The chain may hit the inner side of the larger chain ring.
Chain may not engage the small cog (especially on Shimano cogs).
Chain in the front chainring may make a clicking sound as the chain tries to engage the small chainring.
If there is a lot of slack in the chain, one may experience chain slap (the chain slaps against the chain stay and cause noise and damage to the paint or carbon fiber).
b. In the BIG chainring / BIG cog
The chain may rub against the inside of the inner plate of the derailleur or may not engage the cog teeth fully resulting in grinding or clicking noises.
If your chain is a little bit short and it could lockup the rear derailleur.
2. Comfort: These combinations, small/small or big/big may not feel comfortable when cycling.
3. And finally - limited ability to easily shift as the road goes up or you need to desend. In the large/large, the hill you're on suddenly gets steeper. Shifting up front puts you in the small chainring / large cog which may be far too low a gear. Therefore, you may need to shift the rear derailleur several time. The same goes for the small chainring / small cog as you come up to a descent. This inability to easily shift when road conditions change is, at least, my main reason for avoiding cross chaining.
So, is it bad to cross chain? Although you may lose minimal watts loss and slightly increase wear, the main draw back is the inablilty to EASILY shift as you approach a incline or descent. This is true whether you are cross chaining 2x11 or any other 2x or 3x combination gear combination. The optimal point to shift the front derailleur is when the chain is in the middle cogs of the cassette. Shift the chainring down for hills and up to the large chain ring for speed.

[@cendol987]

Going to start a part-time job as a bike builder at a bike shop and all your videos have been 50% the foundation of my bike maintenance knowledge. Thank you sir and may you live past 100 years old.

[@tony10speed]

Thank you for the complement and hope the job goes well. Regards, Tony

[@Lovemore7]

Thank you for zooming in closely with your camera so that we can see what you’re talking about as you’re talking about it! ☺️

[@tony10speed]

You're welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@Jacobus.J]

Shifting has been my cycling weakness for a while, but this explanation in combination with the visuals made clear why. Thanks!

[@kesphychu]

Your explanation is very easy to understand and love the skills for changing gears for different situations.

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@trackie1957]

The cross chain high wear myth was born in the days (pre 1980 or so) when chains were far less flexible laterally than they are. Modern chains can handle that misalignment with ease. The other issues are exactly as Tony explained: noise and wear on the more costly things like the front derailleur. Aside from those, the system shifts best in the middle, as Tony explained, and noise is to be avoided. Noise affects the engine control module, which has the most profound effect on your performance.

[@tony10speed]

Thanks for your input. Yes, chains are stronger and more flexible, and can handle misalignment of cross chaining. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@nuradiyanto6831]

Your explanation is great, easy to understand and remember. And the picture at 4:08 really sums it all up. Thanks ! 🙏🏼🙏🏼😃

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@SuperOlds88]

Reading the comments about you are nice to see. A well-informed teacher with a relaxed delivery makes for enjoyable videos. Thank you.

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@johnblairvillegas9946]

This is really helpful, especially for me who is new to bikes with FD.

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@ColmHarling]

Hi Tony, thanks for your words of wisdom. I learn so much from your videos. All the best!

[@tony10speed]

You're welcome. Visit our KZbin home site at kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@akramm4833]

Simple yet informative explaination. Thank you!

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@akramm4833]

@@tony10speed I did, and you earned another subscriber. 🙂

[@B_KFC_Leg]

Love your video, forwarded this to a friend that can use a straight to the point explanation 👍

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@errolhiggins1639]

Thank you Tony., best explanation by far, concise yet detailed and comprehensive. Missed your calling as a teacher. Now I finally understand.

[@tony10speed]

As a physician, I taught medical students and residents for many year at Columbia University Medical School in NYC. Keeping peoples interest while you talk or perform procedures is a real key to which I strive. Thanks and safe cycling, Tony

[@mikediazong]

I love the explanation for speed and climbing at 3:28

[@tony10speed]

More to come on better and easier shifting of the front derailleur on compact systems. Visit our KZbin home site at kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@progrockUSA]

For upshifting from the small cog to the large, you don't just want to got to the middle section of the cassette and then jump up to the large cog. You want to do what's called double shifting. For example. In an 11 speed, starting on the small cog and lets say gear 3 on the cassette, you would continue shifting up until about gear 7 or 8, then simultaneously shift to the big cog and back 3 gears on the cassette. You will find that is actually your next gear. The reverse is true when you hit a hill, go up 2 or 3 gears on the cassette and drop to the small cog. This is great for anticipating a climb.

[@tony10speed]

Great comment and this will be a subject of a future video. Although many of us use a compact setup, the same double shifting applies. Thanks and safe cycling, Tony

[@joelcjabonete]

Well explained.. ..keep it up!! 👍👍👍

[@tony10speed]

You're welcome. Visit our KZbin home site at kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@dpstrial]

A year or so ago I changed from a 50-34 11-30 setup to a 48-31 11-32, because it allowed me to do most of my riding in the big chain ring in the middle of the cassette. The small chain ring I generally reserve for hills in excess of 10%, of which there are many in my area. I rarely spin out, since I ride mainly on rough UK country lanes and trails. I could never understand why non-pros use 53-39 11-28. After all I have yet to see anyone maintain over 25 mph on the flat for any distance.

[@tony10speed]

Thanks for the information on your bike drivetrain setup. Visit our KZbin home site at kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@SurpriseMeJT]

Are you using a GRX group for the road? I agree about the big ring being way too large, especially for solo riding and being advantageous for being in the middle of the cogs for less steep hills. I went to 46/34 and 12-30 cassette. I can mash up shorter steep hills on the 46 faster than when I have to use a 34 or 36 small ring.

[@dpstrial]

@@SurpriseMeJT Yes, I use the GRX groupset, which is perfect for the terrain I ride in. I used to use the compact Dura Ace groupset, but I found the high gears were largely wasted. I ride a CX bike with a truck bag sitting atop a pannier rack; and so I am carrying quite a bit more weight than the average ride cyclist.

[@timmyj2366]

Excellent visuals and explanation.

[@tony10speed]

Thanks and regards, Tony

[@attybong]

the chain rubbing the side of the FD when cross chaining is not actually a problem when you have a dura-ace shifter, because it has a trim function wherein you can half-click and ever slighty move the chain towards the center of the FD ..

[@tony10speed]

That is true, but I personally dislike the trim function and don't use it on my Shimano setup. I prefer to shift chainrings while I am toward the middle cogs of the cassette which puts me in a better position for speed or climbing as shown in the video. Pro riders like Chris Horner agree with me and mention it in one of his videos. Regards, Tony

[@SzSzilard]

Great explanation, thanx!

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@georgec2894]

Very nice explainer video! What's your thoughts on racers keeping the chain in the big ring when surging over small climbs to prevent losing time allowing a shift to the small ring? I tend to do this is if can avoid all but the biggest rear cassette cog... but would that be a problem if only used for, say, 10-20 seconds on a properly adjusted drive train? I worry about the relatively large wattages in the 500-1000w range - should I be worried in these cases?!

[@tony10speed]

Racing is a whole other "ball of wax." Short distances in the big chain ring/big cog may cost you a little wattage and when you crest the hill, you may have a bit more shifting in the rear cogs. I sometimes keep the bike in the large chainring and some of the larger cogs (but not the big/big) as I go up a short incline, start shifting to a smaller cog and then stand to crest the hill. Often catches my competition off guard and reach the summit before they do. Regards, Tony

[@markp3383]

Great video. Question for you I have is I just picked up a new 2 x 11 road bike and I am getting noise on not only the standard small-small/large large cross chaining but on the small chain ring -last 4 small on cassette and large chain ring -last 4 large on the cassette . Is that just an adjustment needed or is it normal for this cross chaining noise to be on more than the extreme positions?

[@tony10speed]

No, that is not normal. If the chain is rubbing on the derailleur plates, it's an easy fix. But it could be as simple as some fine tuning of the rear derailleur. But since the bike is new, I'd go back to the shop where you bought the bike and have them fix the problem. Let me know what they say. Regards, Tony

[@joehubbell6154]

I experienced the Big/Big tight chain seize (2:40) several times yesterday on a ride after having a new big front ring installed at the shop and the chain shortened. Not fun, going up a hill, especially, Had to clip out to not fall. For some reason, I "feel" right in big/big going up a hill, as it feels faster and more efficient, even though it is harder to pedal/push. I need to keep it more in the middle, I guess. Regardless, I think the shop messed up on the adjustment to have it seize up like that. Thanks for the video! Now I understand the issue more clearly. Any advice is much appreciated.

[@tony10speed]

I do not suggest the Big/Big for hill climbing since you are limited in your shifting ability should the hill get steeper. The shop may have shortened the chain if the rear derailleur could not accommodate the combination of the chainring size and cassette size. He would have been better off replacing the rear derailleur if needed and keeping the chainring longer. I would go back to the shop and complain. He did you a disservice and needs to correct it. It's not something you or I can fix via the internet. Let me know how it goes. But as you saw, can create problems if you happen, even accidently, to be in the Big/Big. Tony

[@joehubbell6154]

@@tony10speed Rode 40 miles today, with some hills, being careful not to get into big/big configuration, and was okay, but did get too close a few times when I wasn't paying attention. Rode back to the shop and they comped me a new chain and put on a new Shimano rear derailleur (5701-GS). They said that the cassette and the current rear derailleur weren't designed to work together (even though they installed the cassete a while back). Anyway, after installing the new derailleur, the mechanic test rode it, and said something still didn't sound right. Took apart the free hub body. Bearings were fine, but pawls and springs were wonky, not springing back. Going to drop it off when I go on a three week (car) road trip, and they will finish the job. I like the shop and the mechanic. I hope this does it. Thaks for your help and the informative video!

[@tony10speed]

@@joehubbell6154Good work Joe. Let me know how the bike feels and operates when you get it back. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@wasupwitdat1mofiki94]

The large Large scenario is exactly where I had a major issue with my Dura Ace Di2 rear derailleur. The chain actually pulled through the tab that is suppose to keep the chain from escaping the lower jockey wheel and guided through the cage inner and outer plates. The cage on the Dura Ace RD is made of carbon. When the chain ripped through it broke one of the plates and pulled that counter sunk bolt that holds the halves together through the bolt hole. I purchased a new rear derailleur for $700 and I also ordered the cage half that is broken which costs $110. I have been waiting 3 months now for the cage half. Shimano Di2 system won't let you shift to the last two smaller cogs if you are in the small ring up front. Why they didn't program the system shifting to restrict Large Large is beyond me. 🤔

[@tony10speed]

It also makes me wonder: Why not stick to steel or alloy components for derailleurs. The amount of weight added is minor if your not a pro racer. As to why they don't restrict the large/large is a question for Shimano (but I agree with you). Hope all gets fixed. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@umutbey2103]

Thanks Tony

[@kentcruse4969]

What baffles me is why this is so difficult for alot of people to understand! 🤔

[@tony10speed]

Agree completely. Probably the most import aspect of the video is the need to shift when you're in the middle cogs so you can be prepared for speed or climbing. Also visit our KZbin home site at kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@jonfrance7201]

Very clear, thanks mate

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@jonfrance7201]

@@tony10speed thanks, will do

[@TheGarfield9858]

Thank you so much Tony :)

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@vytyy2748]

Hi Tony My seat post has min insert mark 27.2 on alloy frame. I have no idea how much minimum insertion would be. Is it the below the seat tube so that the marking is hidden or The marking should be below the bottom of top tube(I mean horizontal tube). My frame is 17 inch alloy. I have watched your seat clamp video still not clear. Very helpful video by the way. Thanks

[@tony10speed]

The minimum insertion line represents the least amount of seatpost length required to be installed inside the bicycle's seat tube. This means that "the line" should be at or below the top of the seat tube clamp. The use of "minimum" is a confusing term I must admit. Let me know if this answers your question. Regards, Tony

[@j2simpso]

I’m wondering Tony if cross chaining is bad on the teeth of the cassette? Surely that torsional strain caused by the chain isn’t doing any favours for the cassette!

[@tony10speed]

Occasional cross chaining does less wear to the cassette then a dirty chain and dirty cassette. However, regular use of cross chaining probably adds stress to the cassette teeth (and chain) and may contribute to wear (although we haven't got studies to prove it). Good question. Thanks and regards, Tony

[@mrpotiontv2249]

Do you always want the front derailleur to be the biggest cog while the rear to be the smallest cog?

[@tony10speed]

I'm not sure I completely understand your question. However, I try and avoid the large chainring/large cog and small chainring/small cog. Other combinations are up to the cyclist.

[@mrpotiontv2249]

@@tony10speedim sorry I said that poorly but now I understand, thank you.

[@romanengelbrecht6717]

i cant stand having a front derailleur its too much to think about so im switching almost all my bikes to a 1x narrow wide chainring and getting 28 tooth cassettes or larger. Its not ideal but its better for me than having to focus on what gear im on just to avoid rubbing against the front derailleur

[@tony10speed]

Keep in mind that you may need a shorter bottom bracket spindle. It may work in some cases and others not. See our video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnOWe6WMh86Hnrs

[@romanengelbrecht6717]

@@tony10speed im well aware but thanks for the heads up in the past it i wouldve only realized that after the fact

[@besiktaslaras3106]

I was always told that cross chainings wears the chain more than other gear combinations.

[@tony10speed]

Only if you spend much tie in those combinations. But there are other problems as mentioned in the video.

[@New-ye2fl]

What so two gears we aren’t meant to use? What’s the point in having them then

[@tony10speed]

We do use the very large and very small cassette cogs, but are more careful to use them with the proper chainring. This will produce less noise and chain wear and also improve subsequent shifting.

[@therascals8237]

in small-small, my chain intermittently rubs against the inside of the large front cog. :(

[@tony10speed]

That's one of the problems with cross chaining and when you hear that, shift to a lower rear cog and the large chainring.

[@JimS870]

Shimano 105 R7000. Would the smaller chainring and cassette cog 3 out of 11 (third smallest) be "cross chaining" ?

[@tony10speed]

No. What we're referring to is placing the chain in extreme positions such as large chainring and large cog or largest chainring and smallest cog. The only down side of cross chaining (if you're not constantly riding in these positions) is possible noise and limiting shifting. The other down side is if you have a very short chain that can not accommodate the large chainring / largest cassette cog and locks up in this combination. Take a look at the description below the video. My friend uses the small cog, small chainring all the time with no noise and doesn't care to use the largest chainring. Sounds like you should have no problem. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@danydany3980]

I need an advice.I have 8th gear road bike with two chainrings in front. When i'm on a bike riding and when i look back down on the cassette when i'm in let's say 2nd or 3rd gear and large up front,from my POV it kinda looks like the chain is bending somewhere in the middle (more towards the cassette),and same when i ride like 4th or 5th gear and and on small on the front,it again still looks like the chain is bent,almost like i'f im cross chaning it....So what the problem could be? Btw i changed cassette (a tiny bit harder ratio),chainset and rear derailleur (the previous one was large for the and didn't matched),but when i had the old gear on the bike i wasn't noticing any of that chain bending that i'm noticing now,with the old gear i only could notice the chain gets kinda bent was when i'd ride small in front and 7th or 8th (the largest cog) in the back.... Is it just me cuz of somehow weird POV when i look down or someone has/had the same problem?

[@tony10speed]

I'd have to look at it to see if there's any problems. It may just be your POV. How is the shifting? Does it make noise in any gear combination?

[@michaeljameslawrence2965]

What cassette ratios are they as they look massive. I was told on a double 42 is the limit and that is not even recommended

[@tony10speed]

I have a 46/34 up front (makes shifting chainrings nice and smooth) and an 11/36 cassette in the rear. Had to use a hanger extension and a Deore XT long cage rear derailleur. Works great.

[@hrishikeshpednekar1300]

Sir, how can I reset my - 3*7 chainset Chain is set as the following: smallest cog in front and hardest cog in the rear Please guide me how can I reset the gears because the rear shifter is on easiest but gear is placed on the hardest

[@tony10speed]

Are you reading the shifter correctly? Can you shift to other cogs? Maybe this video by Calvin Jones of Park Tools will help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kH-qaJpuaNF8Y9U Give it a try.

[@texas1486]

Why shift the front derailleur when you're in the middle of the cog set?

[@tony10speed]

To keep the chain aligned as straight as possible which is the most efficient shifting. You're also all set for speed or climbing.

[@Arlenz12345]

Still the best combanation is with triple chainring & close ratio sproket.

[@tony10speed]

Used a triple for many years and agree. But I like my compact drivetrain for it's simplicity. Regards, Tony

[@semisahinsimsek4997]

Good graphics

[@tony10speed]

Thanks, Tony

[@tony10speed]

Thanks, Tony

[@hbhbhuseyinbugrasark8883]

Is it less comfortable to ride in the large chain ring large cog or vise versa?

[@tony10speed]

I and others may it less comfortable to ride in the large chainring large cog. It seems to be OK in the small/small provide you can shift into the small/small (some Shimano systems don't let you and on some you'll get rubbing on the outer plate of the front derailleur of large chainring).

[@arnimpolster6859]

@@tony10speed SRAM AXS does not permit small-small (but does allow big-big)

[@tony10speed]

@@arnimpolster6859 Thanks for the info Arnim. Regards, Tony

[@lemontree6534]

Hi Tony, I am your fans from Malaysia. May I consult you on these 2 questions: 1. Is that fine if we use Large-Large when uphill, not for a long period but just for that particular steep uphill, maybe a few minutes? (reason being I always face difficulties in shifting from small to big chain in front, which leads to my second question) 2. Any tips for an easy shifting from small to big chainring (Shimano 105 R7000)? I always struggle when pushing the shifter with my fingers and ask for my friends' help to change, But they all said my shifter doesn't have any problem, it is my fingers problem (newbie here). Lol

[@tony10speed]

Although I don't usually recommend it, using the big/big for a short time will not cause significant chain, cassette or cog wear. But if you have to or accidently shift to the smaller front chainring while in the big/big, the front derailleur and chain may lock up. I've had that happen to me, bringing me to a sudden stop. As far as struggling to shift to the large chainring, I can't rule out dirt or grime in the shifter or shifter housing, or fraying of the cable itself. However, sometimes it's just to much tension on the front derailleur cable. Try screwing the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur cable (located on the down tube or up near the sifter) in (clockwise) an eight of a turn at a time and see if that makes it a bit easier. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony

[@lemontree6534]

@@tony10speed Thanks for your reply! Appreciate it. I have found another method to shift front chainring from small to big i.e. stop my bike and shift first (so that my fingers have full power to make the shift) -> then only paddle to move up the chainring. haha!

[@serdaroktem7669]

Well explained.

[@kempes74]

Is the noise a bad thing?

[@tony10speed]

Any noise is bad since it may indicate a bike problem. I am proactive and investigate and try to eliminate all noise before something fails.

[@Mysticmingle22]

Is chain rub bad thing

[@tony10speed]

I don't like chain rub only because it creates noise (I like to listen for noise which might indicate a bicycle problem) but chain rub also increases chain and component wear. I try to avoid it but that's just my own personal opinion. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@oreocarlton3343]

Durability aside, bigbig is way more efficient than smallsmall

[@tony10speed]

The problem with big-big is that when you come to a slight uphill, you have a lot of shifting to do: Shift to the small chainring and shift a few times toward the middle of the cassette. In addition, when you shift to the smaller chainring up front and you're still in the large cassette cog, the chain may jam in the front derailleur. This has happened to me, and it brings you to a dead halt. Your best (most efficient) front derailleur (chainring) shifting is when the chain is toward the middle of the cassette cogs. Also, neither the big-big or the small-small is very efficient, as least in my opinion. Any way, what ever works for you. Safe cycling, Tony