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[@nereosmandl9129]

James said that consumers need to learn how to read geometry tables. As a future video, could we get james' guide to geometry tables? :)

[@uptown710]

Thought that as soon as I’ve heard it.

[@leedorney]

I'd pay to see, oh I do already KZbin subscriber...

[@salsalawyer]

+1 for this video suggestion. Also how to compare potential newbikes on a geometry chart when replacing an older bike to mimic the older bike's fit on a newer one.

[@ronitdebnath]

@@salsalawyer I have videos on my channel in that regard.

[@1skillayear]

Agreed, i've no idea how to read one

[@jaunedroite]

The Specialized Aethos costs 5.200 Euro for the Comp version with a 105. The S-Works version costs around 15.000. How could this even remotely be considered a "bike for the people" in the first place?

[@vince207]

saying the SL7 is only for pro / competition also surprised me, it sure is a performance bike, but is quite versatile and a great allrounder, i know a lot of "amateurs" who chose a SL7 rather than two different bikes

[@jooohan]

I don't think that's what Spec'c mean saying it's "for the people". More like "made for ride experience, not for results" sort of thing. Some experiences can be expensive :)

[@londonlionel]

I think he means that the aethos isn't meant for racers. It's just for people who enjoy riding bikes, albeit quite wealthy people. And by the way, the Aethos with geometry for normal people has already been made, it's called the Crux. Just put some high-ish gears on it and tyres that aren't too chunky and Bob's your uncle.

[@cd0u50c9]

My thoughts exactly, it's utterly taking the mick. Triban/Van Rysel is a bike for the people, especially since the prices have gone up.

[@TheWoogeroo]

Specialized stuff has been laughably expensive in Europe for 20 year at least.

[@jonathandosman5496]

James is a real watch guy with the dime piece frog watch. 🤝

[@captainbungee]

Someone post him an F91!! 😆. Great advice though......

[@martimcfly6207]

Love it when James activates rage mode

[@cd0u50c9]

Love the honesty, which is becoming increasingly hard to come by in the world of cycling. Agree with a lot of these - there's so much marketing jarg and over-engeneered nonsense that's simply not needed. A steel disc brake bike with decent clearance for larger tyres is the perfect bike because it can do the vast majority of things for the vast majority.

[@tonycaluda1868]

*As long as you expect medium performance at best... most ppl would be ok with that.

[@tinglydingle]

The bike sizing thing is so true. I'm 195cm, which puts me in the top 1% of the UK population for height, yet I ride a large Canyon frame. There are two sizes above that!

[@JanKowalski-ux6nt]

What do you think about Merida Silex XL for 194 cm guy? 🤔😥

[@nickyburnell]

Modern geometry. Look a Beryl Burtons bike fit. Long and low and still holds records. I'm 6.1 and ride 60cm with 58 top. 90mm stem. Works perfectly as drop to bars not huge. Nowadays I would need, " endurance geometry ". . Progress. Na

[@mrvwbug4423]

Canyons tend to run really big. I'm 178cm and Canyon would suggest a small on their road and gravel frames, most road/gravel sizing guides for other brands would have me on a 56cm frame. On MTB frames I usually ride a large (my sweet spot on MTB reach is 470-480mm), a size L Strive is over 500mm reach

[@JanKowalski-ux6nt]

@@nickyburnell Sorry, I don't understand the second half of your comment. Could you explain me please? (from "Works...") Thanks 🙂

[@bencollier9423]

@@JanKowalski-ux6nt It depends! Only you know how long your legs, torso and arms are. Only you know your comfortable cycling positions. Best option get a bike fit, if you cannot do that try them out, if you cannot try a specific bike out try the nearest you can in terms of geometry.

[@NikeonaBike]

there is a bit more $topping the Aetho$ from being a "bike of the people" than the geometry.

[@daviec1816]

The thing with Brooks **leather** saddles is that they've got incredibly short rails, and were designed back in the time when angles were more slack, and all seatposts had setback. If your bike has steep angles, and you want a very specific seatpost, you better know that the sizing and fit is bang-on. If you have a bike, where all that is bang-on, you will be quite happy with your durable flexy saddle, even for all day riding, but it can easily go either way. When you go to the Cambrium rubber saddles, you've got a lot more room for adjustment, but you better hope the shape and flex of them is exactly what you like.

[@BrianRPaterson]

I agree about those rear suspension. Systems built into the frame - they look like a problem waiting to happen. However, I've been very pleasantly surprised by the Redshift shockstop post. The mk1 version with the springs is very easily tunable, and it irons out the more serious bumps that my 35mm tyres don't. Without any noticeable bobbing. It's great for gravel and the crap, badly cracked concrete roads i ride. If I ever wanted to race, I could pull it off and stick on a lighter regular post. Seems like the perfect compromise to me. Cheers

[@cjohnson3836]

I think part of the issue with the way rear suspension has been incorporated into road frames (and also some gravel, like that Diverge STR), is that the suspension operates on a parallel axis to the frame, as opposed to perpendicular like suspension on mtbs. Seatposts operate perpendicular, and a couple have no rearward deflection at all. It still changes your fit, but at such a small drop its probably not really a major impact. Flexing 20-30mm rearward though not only changes knee position in relation to pedals, but also stretches you away from the cockpit. Seems so sketch to me.

[@arcoulant87]

I have a Brooks B17 Special on my touring bike the bars are level with the seat and its bliss, and Brooks C17 curve (rubber) on my gravel bike and it just works .

[@robfrench3379]

Same here, I love my Brooks B17 and cover long mileages in supreme comfort

[@user-ek7te6qh9c]

I would love to see you address the issue of crank length. Generally I find crank length to be excessive on almost every bike. It's rare to find anything below 170 mm except on S or XS frames.

[@ryanthompson1442]

Going to 165 cranks is the best thing I've ever done for my knees, everything medium and under should come with at least that short in my opinion

[@aaronedgeart]

"Thumbs like Edward Scissorhands"... gold! Haha, love this guy and stoked you have him on the channel from time to time.

[@ehrenfull]

Regarding long reach handlebars, all the "avoid" handlebars could actually be good handlebars to buy for fixed gear riders which is pretty funny. Since they don't usually use STIs or brake levers with hoods the longer reach on the handlebars make them easier to hold

[@sampillar5906]

100%

[@dan_lazaro]

I have friends with deda bars on fixed, it's not fun lol

[@henningfaehrtfahrrad5694]

exactly what i thought

[@kristianmusser2821]

I run a Bontrager VR-C on my State Black Label. It’s perfect 😅

[@chrispressdee5747]

Also what if you have long arms or a long torso? Long reach bars would be a solution

[@jefff1416]

Love these videos; thanks James and Francis. I too would like to see a fitting that then translates to a geometry table. I have several bikes (touring, gravel, road), and have had several bike fittings, but couldn’t tell you anything about what geometry fits me for any of my bikes.

[@malcontent510]

Perhaps, the most important section was James' commentary on *_over-simplification_*_ of stack & reach_ measurements - very helpful

[@AshleyTowey]

Loving the podcast and hearing you in longer form content!

[@t-mar9275]

My bicycle fitting pet peeve are road/gravel bicycle brake levers with integral master cylinders for hydraulic disc brakes. This increases the reach of the brake lever body, making it difficult to find a position where it's comfortable to ride on both the hoods and the drops. You're either too stretched out when riding the hoods or too cramped when riding the drops.

[@jayminor9757]

Great points! It’s taken me 50 years as an avid recreational cyclist to figure out what makes one bike fit and be fast and fun and others to just never feel right. More money does not mean a better fit and more speed. Your point about if you need flat bars on your gravel bike, you’re probably on the wrong bike, is spot on.

[@chrisjames1924]

Agree about frame sizing. Absolutely crucial to try before you buy. Also, aside from bike frames, cycling clothing manufacturers need to address their flawed sizing structures too. They seem to assume that height is somehow proportional to how unfit you are. That the taller you are, the fatter you must therefore be. Nightmare for people 6ft 2" + who have the physique of a healthy eating regular cyclist. To me that just seems like a flawed and somewhat paradoxical logic in sizing structure. I'm sure Jimmy will have opinions on this but for us tall skinny guys it's kind of frustrating. The amount of money I've wasted on kit over the years bears not thinking about.

[@joonaskekkonen5160]

It goes the other way too. I'm of similar lenght but lift weights, so my chest is XXXXXL according to manufacturers from Italy. And XL when buying Norwegian clothing. The sizing is all over the place and there don't seem to be any standards.

[@robertlight2370]

Have you tried Kalas kit? Their sizing is not S, M, L etc but is numbered 3, 4, 5 etc which is a little bit odd. But they also have a longer "plus" size - so 3+, 4+ and so on. Same sizing, just a bit longer for taller riders.

[@swe223]

Even worse is when looking for a skinsuit. I am 178cm and have proportionally long legs relative to my torso, but weigh 60kg (not so uncommon for a decently fit climber I would say). So basically I have to buy a S or XS so that the jersey fits, but then I would have the legs that would fit a regular 160cm rider...

[@ronitdebnath]

I think Francis rides a size named 52 addict RC which has a 540 effective top tube length. That is hardly small regardless of whatever its called.

[@RicardoRocha-lg1xo]

And if I remember well, James (who’s like 5’10”) used to ride a size S Open Up… which goes to show how big most bikes actually are

[@monkmchorning]

There is/was a perfect execution of the Specialized Aethos concept--the second-generation Scott CR-1, ca. 2008-2015. Crisp handling, a snappy ride that didn't beat you up, a geometry that was easy to fit to different kinds of riders, and it was easy to work on. As for Specialized shoes, thank you for bringing them up. The built-in varus wedge led to atrophy of my first metatarsals, crowding of the other four toes as the foot slid into the anterior side of the shoe, and calf and ankle cramping from applying force to a poorly supported foot. A flat but supportive shoe corrected this.

[@th3090]

Again, excellent content! Thank You James 🙏

[@dismiggo]

James' watch is so incredibly based it's crazy

[@cappaculla]

incredibly based??

[@davidm3773]

@@cappaculla "being yourself and not caring what others think of you-to carry yourself with swagger"

[@cappaculla]

@@davidm3773 thats a slang used by a talentless rapper isn't it?

[@truthseeker8483]

@@cappaculla YO BRO..whats hangin

[@christopherbegley9142]

@@cappaculla he also wears an omega moon watch

[@bourkey222]

The Trek VCLS handlebar being long reach makes so much sense! I've a 58 Trek and I get bad neck and shoulder pain, feel like I've to stretch too far. Other similar sizes frames I had no such issue.

[@MementoMorIan]

56 Trek for me came with a 7degree 100 stem and those bars with 93 reach. Put a 6degree 90 stem on ages ago and it's a bit better. Next time my bar tape or brake bleed is due I'm definitely swapping down to an 80 or 70 bar. Gravel bikes do generally spec 70s these days (except Trek lol) but I've still got a pretty long torso and I ride drops a lot so I'm leaning towards the 80.

[@TheWoogeroo]

Trek road frames are all really short though, they’re making them back up to the usual length with a longer reach handlebar. You’re probably just on the wrong size bike.

[@robertoe.germanjr.2631]

Yes its true, I learned a lot from Sir. James now riding my RB for 100 k no body pain specialy my nee.... Thanks for the technique...Sir. James your a badass teacher 😊😊😊❤.

[@bennetthasty7886]

I don’t have the spring one but I love my Brooks B17

[@Pastamistic]

Just use a shorter stem for long reach bars. Mine are 104mm so I swapped the 100mm stem for an 80mm stem. I like the tops being closer when climbing and the longer reach bars give me that greater differential between hoods and tops.

[@benibf]

I've used both the Brooks B17 carved and C17 (cambium) carved on my fixed gear as well as my two gravel bikes, all of which have a saddle to bar drop of around 34 mm. I like both saddles, but the B17 (aka the leather one) is easily the most comfortable saddle I've used. Maybe it's because my saddle to bar drop is rather shallow, but it just works. At one point it did become more uncomfortable once the leather started to sag, but tightening the screw on the bottom made it super comfortable again.

[@jonathanvandenberg1819]

Yeah, b17 narrow on my road and gravel bikes. No dramas for me after many thousands of KMs.

[@platypushatstand]

I’ve got a B17 Flyer on my Brompton, easily the most comfortable saddle. Recently tried an Ergon saddle followed by a WTB Volt, then put the Flyer back on and tightened up the bolt and I’m back to comfort again.

[@mattjns]

B17 on my gravel as well. It’s 13 years old and I keep it softened and looked-after…..it’s glorious.

[@roberteltze4850]

B17 fixed my saddle sore problems and pretty much all crotch pain issues. I've never found a saddle anywhere close to is comfort.

[@SimoWill75]

Done a few ultra's in my time, B17 imperial on a Diverge frame with *gasp* Futureshock suspension: 500km in

[@user-tq3ud9zi7w]

I absolutely love the Trek decouplers they are expensive but they are phenomenal.

[@robertchandler587]

I love my aethos. The stack height is greater on the aethos than the tarmac sl7 making it more relaxed.

[@chris1275cc]

That's because both the SL7 and Aethos stack dimensions are given to the top of the bearing and on the SL7 it sits below the top tube by about 7mm, once the proprietary bearing cover is installed the stack becomes identical (this obviously effects the reach too). Technically you can choose to not use the proprietary bearing cover in favour of an external to internal type (basically a standard cover with holes drilled in it) on the SL7 and drop the stack below that of the Aethos but it looks weird as the bearing cover integrates into the frame and it leaves an ugly gap.

[@bernardo9202]

The alternative to the aethos is the winspace slc. and at half the price. Also the cube agree c62. endurance focused aero bike

[@JSC131]

I have have C62 cyclo cross bike brilliant and can put road wheels on it cost me just over 2k in the sale.

[@abcxyz6880]

Who ever buys a winspace bike has lost the plot.

[@marka346]

I brought my canyon endurace 4 years ago, I am 5’9” mature 50+, I was convinced I was a medium size but the canyon chart said I was a small, I brought the small,for my me it was a massive difference coming from a M/L TCR which was recommended for me by local bike shop who just looked me up and down and said yeah that’ll fit.

[@Pastamistic]

Same for me but I just went trial and error. I'm also 5'9" and started on a 54cm Fuji since it was my recommended size. I rode it for 3,500 miles and tried every position imaginable but never quite felt like the bike fit. I jumped on a 52cm frame for a test ride and it immediately felt perfect. I have over 6,000 miles on it now in comfort.

[@monkmchorning]

Canyons run big, but I would have put you on a medium giant in an eye blink. The m/l is for six footers.

[@Knud451]

Thanks! Not so related to this video. What is the difference between Lake CX332 and CX403, besides the heat moldable heel on the former?

[@travispyle2905]

At the beginning of the season I bought a specialized SL7 shoe, got them snug for racing crits. I love them and they feel super stiff. Well a couple months later and now I probably have a bunion (which can only be corrected by surgery... awesome!) forming under my pinky toe knuckle joint. So now I'm back to riding my 5 year old shimano shoes.

[@dwightforeman1258]

All right James thank so much you for the common sense, science backed, and experience you bring to bikes and bike fitting. Please please help us in the states that are having difficulty finding a bike fitter. Most here use the Retul and of course are in Specilized shops or trek shops. Help us to be able to look at a bike fitter online and make an educated decision. I have watched all of your videos, and have been educated thank you. How does someone like me look a website and make a decision? These fitters are at least 1 hour and several hours away and $400. I’m riding an American road bike Klein stage 1997 that I know is too big, but causes minor issues on 1 to 2 hour rides. I would like to get a bike that is properly sized. Thanks and I love your channel. Dwight, from Louisiana

[@sanussports7435]

Specialized does a really good job of marketing the Retul system, that why many people think it's their only option. But there are plenty of fitter in the US that are in line with James [ who actually thinks logically about fit] Check out ClinicalBikeFit.com

[@davidfairburn6231]

I have a Brooks B17 on my touring bike and it’s by far the best saddle I’ve ever used. Can we get a video on mountain bike bike fitting please ?

[@Ergilion]

Last year I nearly went nuts trying to figure out which size of each bike I was considering I needed to look for. When you're trying to buy a bike and you go through websites of stores in your location its a madhouse really. Each time you have to go to each manufacturers website and check their size charts. I made the right decision in the end and managed to get the new bike to fit me nicely I believe by nothing more than getting a new stem 10 mm shorter. But the way manufacturers size their bikes and the way bike stores present this sizing info is very confusing.

[@pmoormann]

Love my long reach handlebars....they are a necessity if you are equipped with long arms and big hands.

[@global_nomad.]

glad i'm flexible enough to be riding an aethos...learnt something about the spesh shoes i didn't know, thanks....

[@morty412]

Want another Francis, Lawrence, James trip! The best!

[@lisashiela9137]

Great video, thanks@!

[@julienmoreau9728]

Hi you're right about specialized shoes. Now you say it, this summer I wore specialized shoes for 9 days all day long for an ultra cycling event and got a callus on one of my external toes (the one usually resting upfront.

[@neilashton9459]

So there was a guy at Unbound this weekend on a hardtail MTB with super wide bars that he had grafted drop bar ends onto. The whole rig was literally 3ft wide. Would have snapped a pic but I was too tired from scraping mud and hike a biking

[@billhulley]

Giant Contact SL OD2 Stem from 70 to 130mm in 10mm increments, 50 quid, available online or off the peg in Cadence shops. Sorted the reach on my Canyon. Not a problem.

[@philr696]

Stack and reach has evolved into every bike but makes more sense with mountain bikes where it came from . Once you stand on the pedals and the seat is out of the way the saddle and seat tube angle have no relevance.

[@alan_davis]

100% The genuinely significant measurement is BB to handlebar.

[@eduardoschneider2010]

thanks for mentioning the spezialised shoes, i just got those. i will check how my bones are and then see which shoes are the best

[@johndef5075]

I love my Sora 8 speed with the thumb lever.

[@walcottav]

James, so nice to have you back ❤ I never understood anatomic handlebars - who has anatomy like that? Spec shoes - had one pair, never again. As for an Aethos with Roubaix geometry, its why I still ride my 2011 Roubaix, with untrendy rim brakes, goofy Zertz inserts, 30mm tire clearance (now tubeless) included. Very comfy, and amortizing upgrade costs over time, its affordable, fit for my purpose.

[@wildsurfer12]

My first road bike had Tornay shifters. They were ok for my first century ride, but then I discovered 105 and the rest is history!

[@eeyou]

Chapter about flat bars! I wish I had seen it before I bought my current mountain bike just because of its looks and I ride it exclusively in the city on roads. Numbness, pins and needles, wrist pain - I get all of that every single ride and it made me begin question if I have the right bike for my case...thanks for confirming I indeed have a wrong bike! Can't wait to get a gravel bike and, hopefully, have better riding experience.

[@alan_davis]

That's nothing to do with the flat bars. He was specifically talking about flat bars on gravel bikes (which have geometry suited to drops). If you've got hand issues work out what they are before dropping more cash on a different bike...

[@donnyo65]

I have a Brooks saddle but it is on my flat bar, upright, heavy duty touring bike. I wouldn't dream of using it on my gravel bike which has a Prologo saddle. Both are comfy for their intended use and both allow me to clock up the miles in comfort. I had a bike fit when I bought my gravel bike(Ribble CGR 725) and the guy put wedges under my Cleats. This worked for me as I have the problem you described (I knew this before I went but wanted to know if he spotted it - he did!). I then tried the Spcialised shoes - they were excruciating. I would love to know who has feet that narrow and deformed! Great video - lots of common sense.

[@RiseNShine681]

I was about to go on a tirade because I LOVE Brooks saddles, but that was honestly a good assessment. Everyone I've met that said they didn't like Brooks saddles had their seat post 2 feet higher than their handlebars lol. Sounds crazy, but everyone's butt is different.

[@brianpurcell9058]

James, just love the passion! 👍🤣

[@lamboboySV]

How could you easily adjust your bike to go from racing to bikepacking regarding comfort and fit? And any tips for bikepacking bike set-up in general?

[@Skatted]

Do a mtb bike packing set up pls

[@jaweb97]

Francis has a few videos on his bikepacking setups, but generally you just need to work out your tyre clearance and get something bigger on there that you can run at lower pressures. For bikepacking, if possible, keep your luggage in-line with the bike - so frame bags, top tube bags, saddle packs - you're already adding weight, so keeping things streamlined will help with speed and handling, and overall comfort.

[@eckdavid2472]

This was an interesting video, and I understand it's a part 2. I'd like to see the first one. Anyone know where it is?

[@hugobosswood9002]

Great vid What about top 10 off shelf road bike and same for gravel….

[@lukasbunten4770]

Do you have any opinion on Race bis endurance bikes? I‘m currently looking for a new bike and it seems either super racy or rather endurance oriented with lots of comfort…

[@rantingwrench]

I'd like to know James' thoughts (rants?) on the new Specialized Diverge. I imagine that much rear suspension will have huge ramifications for bike fit - your position on the bike will be constantly changing, significantly...

[@tamk9088]

I'm enamoured by the clean workshop and high quality tools on display.

[@KNURKonesur]

What about Brooks Cambium saddles for long distance on/off/road cycling on a gravel bike?

[@compassionsix]

I want to book a fit! Now I just need to hop a plane across the pond.

[@owensnicholas]

I saw an Aethos in a local shop and nearly bought it on the spot. It was gorgeous. But then I went home and compared the geometry to my Roubaix and said, ‘why the hell have they done THAT?!’ I totally agree with you. With Roubaix geometry I would love the hell out of an Aethos. I do a ton of climbing. What bike is light and has that endurance geometry I prefer?

[@rickbeckner9906]

Look at the Open MiND or a Canyon Endurace SLX. Not as light as the Aethos, but a much more forgiving geometry.

[@davidgramling1484]

In regards to bike sizes, does the riders inseam figure into the size of their future bike ❓ I understand that you can rise the saddle up, but does having the saddle very high change stability ❓Or should you increase bike to accommodate the riders leg length ❓

[@K2theAblam]

Love and miss James on this channel. been way too long.

[@smau990]

I think stack and reach are excellent numbers to look at in mountainbikes, where the handling characteristics off saddle are possibly even more important than seated position ergonomics in certain disciplines. For road/gravel bike the saddle position needs to be included but there isn't standardized way to give meaningful headtube lenght. Is it linear, horizontal, horizontal accommodating seat post angle and at what height. And let's say there are two bikes with effectively same ass to palm distance achievable with adjustments, but one has BB 2cm further forward than other, WTF do I do then

The thing with Brooks saddles is that they are amazing when you're riding in an upright position. I have one on my city bike for a decade now and it just works perfectly. That's the one with a flat bar with gigantic sweep and not a bike where you need a fit on. Coming from this I did the mistake to get an Brooks C17 when I got my first serious bike just to quickly discover that it's in the way in aggressive riding positions. I got a Supacaz Scorch as a replacement and I do love this saddle so much! Speaking about wide dropbars for more control : there is this rare breed of people that like to ride dropbar mountain bikes for bikepacking on hiking trails and/or off-road ultras where they make a lot of sense. I started looking for a gravel bike, just to realise that gravel is boring and I want to ride the most remote trails possible. (If you aim to ride really remote trails swiftly, don't make the mistake to buy a Gravel bike, most of them are seriously undergeared. Get a dropbar mountain bike or build your own starting with mountain bike frame and cassette.)

[@ByronWWW]

Undergeared? They are normally geared like road bikes aren't they while my MTB is running 36-10-52 😂

[@billkallas1762]

Guilty on the long reach bars, with the flat section in the drops. If I'm looking for a frame, I ignore frame sizes, and grab a frame with 73x73 angles, and a 58cm virtual top tube. (188cm tall, with shorter legs) I use a 13cm stem now, but used a 14, when I was racing (and was more flexible)

[@vinny6660]

So I ride a Roubaix and an Aethos, both set up by a professional bike fitter and in my experience the Aethos is by far the more comfortable bike to ride so not sure what your talking about.

[@twgood5882]

With you all the way until 13:28. In USA, the mean clothing size is XL and the range to cover 90+ % of the population is Medium through XXXL. Bike sizes of small fitting the smallest 25 % of population, medium fitting middle 50 %, and large or xtra large fitting top 25 % makes more sense than clothing sizes.

[@willalm830]

has Brooks not a rubber saddle for road? I would never have anything other than Brooks for bikepacking but apart from the rubber type would never use on road too heavy

[@andreroodt4647]

Now I know why my feet started hurting after moving to Specialized shoes. Not something I noticed straight away, but after a few months of increased fitness and power my feet started killing me. I wish this was something that was stated upfront when buying the shoes.

[@patrickblanton6650]

Me also. Have had issues with them for a long time now.

[@buckroger6456]

I'm glad I seen this video cause I have a pair that I use for shopping runs and found that they feel a bit off while riding. I was thinking about getting a new pair for my normal rides, but now I won't.

[@alan_davis]

Specialized used to (maybe still do) brand this as "Body Geometry" but in most people's experience it is usually geometry for someone else's body...

[@0ester]

Just a question about the last one: You say you are medium sized people (5"9'-5"10') riding size small bikes at size 53 (or top tube 53cm). Some brands (canyon, giant) make their size small gravel bikes with a 55cm top tubes, but they also have slacker head angle and shorter (70-80mm) stems . Would you size down to XS in these brands to get a 53cm top tube and then maybe replace the stem?

[@JonathanMallett]

Wonder how James feels about all road bikes, like the Vitus Venon 2023.

[@YoSpiff]

I've always ridden a Brooks. I am curious how his critique of leather saddles is different from riding other saddles.

[@jonpoon3896]

Agree about the Aethos. If it was the same geometry as the new Allez (now more of an endurance geometry), it might be better

[@dan2304]

Long reach handlbars with a short stem provide a relief from drops, hoods to the tops, for recreation and touring.

[@JakeMay]

Have often wondered James' take on the Brooks saddles!

[@andrewmcalister3462]

13:50 Would appreciate a specific video on how to read geometry tables from a consumer perspective.

[@sterby1]

I'd suggest from left to right

[@kosskrit]

It Doesn't matter how steep seat tube angle is. Horizontal distance between saddle and BB is determined by length of legs and feet. Slacker angle is negated with seatpost without setback and vice versa. Thus you can simply orientate by stack and reach. Everything other can be compansated with stem and handlebars.

[@adammillsindustries.]

My spesh turbo is causing me pain now. In your expert opinion can the saddle height been a little high cause groin pain?

[@t00thygr1n]

My Cannondale tandem has a straight 1.5" stem. I nearly got a custom stem (or alternatively a custom tandem fork with tapered steerer) until I found I unicorn stem made by Cannondale a few years earlier. I'll never have another stem option on that bike.

[@johnchan8086]

I was go na get the aethos because of the simplicity of it…now ive checked the geometry it does look too similar to SL7. Is there any similar bike like the aethos? Light weight climber bike withe comfort as well?

[@Theo-iu4kj]

What kind of insoles would you recommend when I am using a specialized shoe?

[@slidey1000]

When the tourney levers came up i was worried it was somehow going to be about the side exit gear cables. How those are a fitting issue had me stumped. I have however regressed my cx bike to a set of side exit ultegra levers to try and improve shifting when everything is caked in mud. My old set with cables under the tape always seemed to drag when things got messy. Back to your normal programming...

[@alan_davis]

Used to rely on my side exit cables to catch my hand when riding a bumpy road while knackered... I miss them!

[@wenschobert]

Hi Mate, could you make a vid with James discussing what to look out for if your kids start to get on a road bike? My 7yo is riding a 24" road bike... and heck - i cant afford to get her fittet twice a month - but she's just growing way to fast... plus: I'm sometimes having a hard time getting feedback from her, if there's anything feeling bad etc...

[@KekusMagnus]

I've sized many bikes for my friends and even I have no idea how to read geometry tables, can you make a video on that?

[@simongiavaras7787]

Brooks leather saddles are explicitly designed for a slight nose up position AND for level saddle and bars, so it's no wonder people trying to put them on racy bikes have pain

[@suisinghoraceho2403]

In terms of the specialised shoes, what would be the symptoms? Would I likely to experience pain in the inside or outside of the knee?

[@halfblood_drag0n]

i have a shimano claris groupset on my road bike, really like it

[@robertlight2370]

I built up a gravel bike last year with Claris and every time I ride it I'm impressed by the shift quality. It's really good.

[@christopherwiseman1287]

Well done James.

[@laneromel5667]

Lovee\ the Brooks saddle on my mtb, hate the brooks saddle on my road, and gravel bikes.

[@SzX1X]

Wow. Last one was mindblowing, thanks. I am 175cm (5‘9) and 81cm inseam, riding a 536 Toptube and on the new race bike I have to decide between 530 and 546. 530 reads short, but 546 seems to be very long. Don‘t know if

[@jordan1991r]

Easier to extend reach than to reduce I’d say. Only so much you can reduce by

[@user-ou7bg7ne9y]

That frog watch is Epic!!!

[@rodscher28]

That‘s very good video. Thx!

[@dan_lazaro]

I'll be editing this comment to talk about some points in the video I want to discuss -I'm a long reach bar enjoyer. Well, I guess I just managed to fit my self to long reach handlebars but I'd probably still prefer short reach ones but I was planning on getting short reach bars at one point but my position ended up being so dialed I kept the bars I had 80mm reach -I always find myself thinking about James' rant on the majority of bikes being too long and too low. A lot of the times when I fit people, the bikes are usually too long and too high, or too short but still too high. I like to fit people to stems usually around the 110-130mm range and it almost always ends up being -17. There seems to be a shortage of good geometries like the Tarmacs, Supersixes, Vanyars, so almost everyone I know (except people who ride the frames I cited for example and some others) have -17 stems slammed and it's still too high. If anything I find people that need the taller geometry are part of the minority I only know my brother and probably some others I forget to talk about. Can't comment on the Aethos geometry though lol I don't have experience with that bike. -Specialized shoes. James hates it so much but when I bought me a pair of Specialized Expert shoes they didn't have that uneven toebox that he often talks about. In fact, with the same insole (a medium high arch insole because my feet aren't flat) it feels really similar except the fact that the RC3 has a not so stiff sole and the expert has a full carbon one.

[@paulgrimshaw8334]

A longer stem will certainly increase the torque a rider is able to apply thru the steering axis to overcome caster. It will also allow a smaller frame to work for a rider with a longer torso. The flip side is that the steering will be slower. I’d prefer to see a right-sized frame fitted with a stem that is within 10mm or so of the manufacturers spec because this is a measurement that formed the basis for stem angle and fork rake.

[@super8hell]

Info on James's watch! Patek?

[@danloveuk]

Ha, noticed as well. Ditching the Speedy for something more original 😂

[@neilbuckley5796]

He has a right watch collection. Sure he’s got a IWC too

[@danloveuk]

@@neilbuckley5796 there was a panerai in the mix at some point

[@neilbuckley5796]

@@danloveuk ooof.

[@markbayles7840]

James, what manufacturers make narrow road shoes, I expect you will say lake, if so what model. Thanks

[@jimpeyton1459]

I have Lake CX 241 (now out as 242). The 241 now on final close out. Super adjustable. Sidi Genius 10 also a good one...bit too narrow for me. Best to try on at a good shop as shoe fit is as important as bike size IMHO

[@challengefatty]

Loving the Triban love ❤

[@grahambell9831]

Chapeau James & Cade Media 👏👏👏

[@jimthebikeguy]

Agree about the brooks saddle. Controversial though.