Bilge Pump Repair

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We first notice that the bilge pump would not work on automatic but would work on manual. When checking voltage their was a big difference on the draw between the two. When you are watching the video you will see that the reason is there is string wrapped around the impeller. After removing the string the bilge pump still did the same thing. The string cause the contacts in the float switch to be damaged. We replace the float switch and the pump is working fine now.

[@BUBS_HD]

As with all of your videos, very clear, professional, to the point, helpful to many, and as always a pleasure to watch. Keep up the great work like you always do buddy and God bless you and your family 🕇🇺🇸🕆🖒

[@OmFishing]

Thank you for you kind words of support. Keep watching and as always stay safe and bring glory to god.

[@javierc.salazar512]

Nice job brother. Stay safe.and take care of the family. Tell Capt. Mitch he did a fine job too.

[@OmFishing]

Thanks I sure will.

[@diogenes7916]

Thank you for sharing how to repair the bilge pump.👍

[@OmFishing]

Happy to help

[@douglasthompson2740]

I have had many many years of experience. Mine and several of my friends concur that mercury float switches are a point of failure. Even in a clean bilge two to three years is a normal lifespan. The Rule integral switches built into the pumps are even worse. We had 30 boats at a lodge I worked at and every single one had to be replaced every year. There is a 'battery' eater that comes on every few minutes to 'test' the depth of bilge water. I have tried them all over the past seven decades of boating. The best one I found is the Water Witch made by an outfit out of Santee California. Don't know if they are still in business. Very good support, solid state potted no moving parts, will not pump oil (pumps the water out from under it but no oil=no fines). I have had three for more than twenty five years in my one boat and a couple more in other boats. I have one which was my back up and still sits in my shop drawer-never needed! I use these in year round salt water moorings, freezing in the winter, rain and wind all year long. Works on the conductivity of two metal contact points. Used to be about thirty or forty dollars and well worth it. It was a bit hard to find in marine stores. Simple straight forward wiring same as any auto switch pump. I mounted two pumps in my main bilge with two of these switches. One mounted about two or three inches higher than the other. If the one pump or switch should fail then the second would kick in (as I had shore power and they were on separate fuses it made a good backup system). Anyone who leaves their boat in the water should check these out. I first saw them and started using them back in the mid nineties. The first one I bought cracked over the winter. I notified the company and they immediately sent me a new one free of charge with the note that they had never had one fail before. I had sent the bad one back. Since then I have owned six or seven and through years of use in a variety of small boats have not had one problem. They also give you plenty of lead so the electrical connections can be made high out of the bilge water. They mount vertically with two screws. In one installation I made an L shaped bracket out of stainless mounting the pump on the bottom leg and the switch on the vertical leg. Another I just used a compartment bulkhead. Anyway give them a try if they are still around. It was a great product from a good company. And I don't often praise products in today's world.

[@davidmiller1151]

No, the loose nut isn't enough to justify the crazy 😂. Love the jokes. Thanks for the content 😊

[@OmFishing]

You are sooo right. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@scottdowney4318]

All my pumps are like that, it is the brushes that wear out, down to the nubs. And when you take out those bottom screws, that loosens the plate sealing the motor and when you spray it, a good chance water gets into the motor. Has a large rubber oring for a seal. If you want to expose the motor, slide the wires down the black rubber top bushing, and you can get the motor out of the plastic housing. The plastic nylon impellor is tough to remove from the shaft, I think maybe if you can heat it up a little, maybe can be pried off. It is a snap like fit as in has a groove it locks into in addition to the 'D' drive of the shaft so it does not fall off when operating. It is honestly a better deal to get a new generic pump off Amazon for $30 than take the time and expense to source brushes which are about $10 if you can figure out something. I have also found stringy debris can get wrapped around the shaft and can compromise the motor seal, then it might leak water in.

[@OmFishing]

I think you are right. If you want to be sure of your bulge pump replace it. Thanks for sharing the information.

[@socaloutdoors7355]

I gave it a thumbs up just for the, " loose nut behind the wheel " 🤣🤣🤣

[@OmFishing]

Lol Thank You!!!!

[@mudassir_nazir]

Pls. Advise, How can I get its drawing for dismantle the pump completely for Inspection/repair ?

[@OmFishing]

The wire diagram for the pump control is on the internet just search {rule bilge wiring diagram} aa far as the pump it self, I have not seen any. I just looked at mine as a dc motor and went from there.

[@skooby_doobie_doonkann3334]

Great informative video

[@OmFishing]

Thanks. Keep watching for more projects on the Grand Banks.

[@abrahambello7043]

ME PUEDEN DECIR QUE MODELO ES ESE MOTOR QUE TRAE ESA BOMBA? DONDE PUEDO COMPRAR RESPUESTOS POR INTERNET?

[@OmFishing]

Esta es la bomba de achique de un Grand Banks Boat de 1975. Esta bomba solo bombea el agua de la sentina del barco. El motor es un John Deere 6404. Tiene un tipo diferente de bomba de agua. La bomba para sacar sentina. La bomba de enfriamiento del motor es diferente

[@patrickhynes6058]

Could you have taken apart and repaired the float switch as well? Or are there no parts inside the float switch you could have serviced?

[@OmFishing]

I have always replaced the float switch. Just because I you almost have to destroy them getting them apart.

[@duramaxdiesel774]

How the wire are hook up to the swich?

[@OmFishing]

On this bilge pump the difference between auto and manual is done through the switch. One side energizes the pump and the other way it goes through the float switch. That switch made for a bilge manual /auto.