How to Wire a Bilge Pump | How to Install a Bilge Pump | Bilge Pump Float Switch Wiring | Boats.net

[@Allan-ep7ep]

Just another brilliant straightforward video that tells you all you need to know about wiring in a bilge pump. Its also a good presentation that simple and easy to understand.

[@CSY44IslandTime]

Since mercury switches are not available, and after several float switch failures on my 44’ sailboat in the Caribbean, I wired the bilge pumps through a relay controlled by the float switch. My results, no more failed float switches. No start and run current through the float switch.

[@henrygabriel700]

thats the most clearest video yet! can you make video to add a check valve? tysm!

[@josephpergola1099]

I am not an expert but I think the manual doesn't recommend a check valve unless your discharge is less than 12" from waterline. check out the .pdf for the pumps.

[@FelAlvCoi]

Thank you for your excellent video. Maybe you know about a probelm I have. I installed a new rule 1500 using a ckeck valve. Sometimes the pump works but does not stop and the water level remains the same. Removing the check valve it works perfectly. Sometimes with the movement of the boat the pump starts again for short periods, that's why I wanted the return valve. But it seems the pump cannot open the valve when the pressure of the water in the pipe is present. Do you think it is normal or have any other explanation ? Thank you

[@fordperfect1227]

Thanks John, I am wiring an automatic pump with internal switch. It has only three wires and seems to be your second pump scenario. I would like some kind of indicator light to work and to be able to turn it off? * how do I wire this to an on-off-on as the auto wire is always connected to the positive battery terminal? would i use a DPDT (on)-off-on switch with position 1 - connect manual to (selector switch) power position 2-off position 3-connect auto-run wire from the pump all the way back to positive terminal? or would i use the same exact switch you used for (on)-off-on with the separate float switch design?

[@toycollector2611]

Thanks, my bilge and live well switches stopped working. I guess I need to find a fuse somewhere. The actuator on the bilge works on its own. The console switches are not activating either pump. Any suggestions welcome.

[@johnbuiatti366]

Nice job. When would you use diodes? Mine has them. Bass boat w two bilge pumps. Thanks!

[@josephpergola1099]

This was a great video, just wondering if the Rule switch #43 has the built in fuse that is 20amp Max. How will this protect the circuit or appliance 500 GPH Pump that is a 4 amp fuse size and a float switch that is 14-20 amp depending on the model?

[@cheapme1850]

Just a recommendation. The Harbor Freight ratcheting crimper is only $20 and well worth it. I had to lengthen the existing wires in the boat and it was impossible to get a good solder because of the limited space in the bilge. The crimper gave me good, consistent and quick connections.

[@unisuit]

Upgrading my boat to a dual pump system. Wondering if they should both have auto or make one auto and the second manual. looking for redundance for offshore. Thanks

[@rolandstockham1905]

Also adding a comment on the wire selection. ABYC now calls for D/C neg to be yellow but I wouldn't necessarily do this when just wiring a pump but using cable colour corded for A/C is going to be confusing. It should be black & red or red & yellow. I I always like to label pump wire so that it is obvious which wire goes to the float switch. Ideally use heat shrink printed labels but anything that is permanent is ok

[@mauroalvarezsi]

That rule 1500 is great and they’re super expensive. I have one and the internal sensor broke so it’s always on. So I had to put a float switch and got it working direct to battery. That’s my second pump, first is a rule 800gph.

[@rolandstockham1905]

There are a few things wrong here. If you need to join wires it is much better to use ring connectors into a connector strip than to cram 2 wires into a crimp. Also when making crimps there are ratchet crimp tools with heads specifically designed for heat shrink connectors that will make a better crimp than the pliers he is using. Final point it to make sure everything is marine grade, that inline fuse as plain copper cable so it is not marine spec.

[@captpepin]

I'd rather burn up a pump once in a while with a stuck float vs. having the boat sink because someone turned the bilge pump off. Those 3 way switches are not allowed on any boat I own it's the first thing I change out.

[@demetresichinava5088]

👍👍👍👍👍

[@piqlol]

lol you know the youtuber is in the U.S.A when the content provider says -" don t touch the hot part "