Boat Electric Wiring Made Easy, Part 3, Bilge Pumps, Float Switch, Automatic & Manual Complete Guide

Boat electrics from scratch made easy! - Part 3. In this episode we install two electric bilge pumps into our boat electrical mock-up. Having already installed the busbar, master switch and main switch panel, we have most of the boat electrical infrastructure in place, so installing these bilge pumps does not take long.
We first look at three different bilge pumps, a manual (simple on/off) bilge pump, a large capacity automatic bilge pump and a built-in float switch, and a smaller automatic bilge pump that uses electronics (instead of a float switch) to decide when it needs to operate. We also look in detail at using a Seaflo dedicated bilge pump switch system, which takes care of both manual operation and automatic operation for one of the pumps we are installing.
We start with the manual bilge pump, which we are pairing with an external float switch. It is important to make sure that the polarity of the bilge pump is correct, otherwise it will turn the wrong way and won't pump. We also must consider the maximum current draw for the two bilge pumps we are installing to make sure we don't overload the switch / fuse in the main switch panel - in this case deciding to use two different switches, one for each bilge pump. For the manual bilge pump, we first take its negative lead to the 'engine bay' area and connect up to the busbar (electrical negative distribution bar), using a soldered on ring terminal. For the wiring of the positive side of the system we must run the positive feed through the float switch. We decide to bring the wires through the bulkhead to the 'high and dry' main switch panel side of things, so that we do not have to worry about water-proofing the connections.
The second bilge pump that we are installing is an automatic bilge pump. Although this bilge pump looks very similar to other bilge pumps with a built-in float-switch, this one does not include a float switch, but instead uses an electronic system in place of the float switch. The way this works is that every few minutes the electronic system switches on the bilge pump for a short time, when while the bilge pump is on the electronic 'brain' monitors the amount of electrical current drawn to determine if water is present. If the bilge pump is pumping water it will continue to pump until the water has gone (it knows this again by monitoring the current draw while pumping). If no water is present the bilge pump turns itself off again until its next check after another few minutes. We have a separate video and article showing how this works in reality which can be found in the links below.
• Don’t Buy An Automatic...
For the electrical wiring of the automatic bilge pump we are using a dedicated Seaflo bilge pump switch. This small switch panel has a switching system which can be used in manual mode (switch only on while held) and an automatic mode where the switch is pushed the other way - it can be left in the automatic mode indefinitely. The Seaflo bilge pump switch panel is illuminated (red for manual operation and green when switched to automatic operation. The wiring connections of the automatic bilge pump switch can be a little difficult to understand at first so we include some close-up photographs showing the wiring, which can be found by following the link(s) below:
www.boatfittin...
Some of the items featured in this video can be bought (in the UK) by following the link below:
www.boatfittin...

[@MariDuru21]

Part for 4 and beyond please. This is one of the best DIY series in boating space!!!

[@Keysgem]

Great job explaining the basic wiring , I would like to see you do a video on how to wire an electric reel receptacle with a breaker, to this date I can’t find a video any where on the internet

[@NordicLead]

Yes. Please do more. 🙏🏻

[@marineworldclassifieds9867]

Man. That blew my mind away. Thanks for giving me the confidence, I'm having anxiety over where and how to begin and then your series came along, I'll be rewatching these videos a lot😅. Thank you much

[@michaelcoultmusic]

Part 4 please! This is such a well articulated guide. The world wants part 4! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼

[@_onesimpleidea]

Unfortunately, I get the feeling that he's gone (from here).

[@tideslesstraveled7127]

@@_onesimpleideaoh dear 😮

[@tomm1968]

Best boat electrical videos I've seen yet. Very clear, easy to understand instructions on the practical aspects of wiring methods. Most electrical vids are all about wire and fuse sizing, and that sort of stuff. No one ever shows you how to put it together on the boat, and why you do it that way. Great stuff. Can't wait for Episode 4!

[@jonnychapman2010]

This bilge pump setup seems as though the master switch would cut power to both bilge pumps? Would you not want at least one wired more directly to the battery so that when you turn off the power at the main switch, the bilge pumps can still operate - to pump out rain water whilst on a mooring etc? Great video and really helpful!

[@genglandoh]

On my sailboat I wire my safety items the following way 1. Automatic bilge pump thru the special auto Manual switch then to the batteries 2. VHF bypasses the switch panel but is not wired directly to the batteries. This way when I leave the boat I turn off the master switch cutting power to everything except the automatic bilge pump. To turn on the VHF radio I turn on the master switch then the switch on the VHF Radio.. This way if the switch panel has a problem I can still use the radio.

[@kyetechdroneaerials1587]

Excellent Series! I was hoping I’d see ignition wiring, I’m about to start a total rewire. Hopefully I can find videos from someone as thorough as yours! Thank You !! 🚤

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment.

[@Captain_Yogurt]

Huge thank you! I recently started working as a marine electricians “apprentice” despite having been very clear in my interviews that I had limited electrical experience. I’ve already retained more info on the actual connections from these three videos then I did in my first month on the job. I’ve been mostly running wires, but now I feel much more prepared for the next step of connecting everything up

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your comment. I hope your apprenticeship leads you into some interesting projects - would be great to hear any interesting lessons that you may learn as time goes on. All the best, Richard

[@athmss]

Good look. You start by the right place.

[@brianwest1501]

Another good job. My son lives in Mexico. He recently replaced his bilge pumps. I’m going to share your vids with him. He will gain a lot of knowledge watching your channel. Cheers!!

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment, and for passing these details on to your son - I hope it is useful for him. Kind regards, Richard

[@starling2393]

Thank you so much for this, as someone trying to understand the inner workings of a boat this is gold.

[@brucemonighan2925]

Electrics are my achilles heal. You are makking this so understandable. Please keep the videos coming.

[@devinharp636]

The way you have presented this , I applaud you!! Thanks so much for making this straight forward and understandable. Oklahoma USA ❤️

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - glad you like the videos. Kind regards, Richard

[@JSGregg]

I've never wired a boat, I just find wiring interesting. Looks like once you've done a couple circuits, it becomes pretty repetitive. Positive -> Fuse/Breaker -> Switch -> Device -> Negative. Once you grasp that, you can easily add in whatever you need. One thing to consider is using a relay to switch higher current loads like motors, then a toggle/rocker switch to activate the relay. Saves your switch contacts a bit and may keep you from doing long runs of thick wire. Especially for motors, which are electrically spikey and noisy, a solid state relay may be the most reliable (the name brand ones), as opposed to running it through a toggle/rocker.

[@Kaiwk]

Anxiously waiting for part 4! I NEED to know how to wire multiple cabin lights

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now. Kind regards, Richard

[@casperbyrresen5992]

This is by far the most easy understandable guide to boat electrics! Thank you so much for your videos! I would love to see more in this series :)

[@RichardSchaffer-fd4uj]

Finally, something well done & made simple. Thank you very much.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@davisscott8499]

This is an absolute gem thanks for the effort you put into this

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@pooyaejtemaei6444]

Great video. It would be amazing if you could show how to use the multimeter to trouble shoot electrical issues using the model. Thank you again for the amazing video.

[@TheRichwell]

I’m Stoked. It’s just what I needed. Boating for a Dummy! Part 1 Electrical 😅

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - glad to be of help! Richard

[@jls1495]

Great to have a part 4 please !..otherwise there will be hundreds of part wired boats sailing around 😮

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@NuanceMusicLib]

thank you for fantastic easy to understand guidance. I look forward to you finding time to show how to connect the system with shore power. 😉

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment, I will be including some additional wiring steps in the next video - shore power will be in one of the future videos. Kind regards, Richrad

[@captain-Dan]

My god I needed this! Please continue the series

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - these kind of comments inspire me to get the next one done - just need to find a little time! Richard

[@philipkenneth24]

Well done sir. Excellent explanation and demonstration

[@athmss]

Thank you again. It is very useful classes. Alex from Brasil.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@jeffdege4786]

Everything you've done so far is switched - as in turned off if the master switch is turned off. There are circuits on the boat that should still be powered if the master switch is turned off - automatic bilge pumps being one example. Or, at least, if your boat is left in the water when unattended, the bilge pump should not be wired through the master switch (though you would want it to have its own switch).

[@gogetnic]

Totally. I was looking for this comment. That boat is sinking.

[@macfarlanenz1]

Excellent

[@intrepidproductions9625]

Any plans to complete the series?... first 3 have been very useful, thanks!

[@calidude5116]

I like how you explain alot. Can you make a video on wiring a different battery switch or multiples. I watched your 3 videos demos so far. Thanks bro

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment, and suggestion for a future video - I will try to include your request in a future video

[@GioBen68]

Excellent tutorial! Thank you 🙏🏼 one question though : if you switch off the battery and remove the key, the automatic bilge pump will not work if one day there is water while you are not on board, correct? Shouldn’t the bilge pump be directly wired to the battery?

[@SydonX3]

Great video, still very useful!

[@josephkumor5452]

This really helped I hope to see more videos

[@smithed3448]

I think it would have been a good idea to to have mentioned the fuses for each switch and fuse function.

[@mikejohnson5157]

Question, it seems that the positive wire for the 2nd bilge pump goes thru the fuse panel. Wouldn't you wire the auto wire direct? The auto feature will not work unless that switch is on, meaning the isolator must be on as well. Forgive me if I missed something.

[@minhthong6749]

Great videos. Thanks.

[@JohnCornellier]

Fantastic videos, can't wait for more. Question though: in 2023 why are we still using fuses rather than breakers? Are fuses just cheaper? Or is there some technical difference?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi John, Thanks that seems like a good question. I happened to have the 'fuse-type' handy to make the video, I beleive you can buy the equivalent panel with breakers, I guess it is a cost vs convenience balance. Richard

[@lildeena1]

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I don't have bus bars and my auto bilge has been disconnected for years. Can I just wire up a system completely isolated from everything else and keep the 3 way switch mounted near the stern near the battery compartment and pump? and run my pos / neg direct to the battery?

[@dziubo1]

Awesome video! One question, that wasn't really explained. Connecting negative from automatic bilge pump and negative togeather wasn't necessary, right? We could separatly connect it to the bus, as far as I understand.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. Yes if I understand your question correctly, both wires could have been brought to the busbar to achieve the same effect. Kind regards, Richard

[@pifprime]

May I ask why not breakers instead of fuses? Breakers you can reset on the spot?

[@martinhillersweden]

Nice! Just a suggestion. It's better to have the bilge pump connected directly to the battery. Otherwise your pumps won't work when you're away and you get a leak... 😢

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. I think you make a valid point, and there are some benefits to what you suggest. Worst-case scenario you choose whether to prioritise a dry bilge vs drained battery potential. Kind regards, Richard

[@TR4zest]

Bloody brilliant!

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@cward8110]

for the auto bilge pump, utilizing the 3way switch for auto/off/manual, is it necessary to utilize the main switch panel as well or could you just bypass and wire the 3-way switch directly to a power and negative terminals...the use of both switches for the one pump seems redundant

[@Hartmut-58GradNord]

Great video! We just watched Part 1-3 and were already looking for Part 4 of your boat electric wiring tutorial. We read a lot about boat electrics as we have to completely or almost completely redo the electrical system in our 40 years old sailboat. Your tutorial is very pedagogic and easy to understand for rookies like us - thanks a lot! One question: wouldn't it be better to connect the bilge pump prior to the main switch as one would like to have it connected all the time?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comments (I had to look up pedagogic - but I think I get it) As for the bilge pump direct wiring to main switch that is a good question. There is some argument to have one bilge pump directly wired prior the main switch, if you prioritise keep bilges dry over possibly running down your battery. Personally I think that option makes most sense if you have multiple battery banks - reserving one for starting the engine, and another for leisure (the bilge pump would then be wired into the leisure battery bank). Even then it is important to include a fuse in this circuit.

[@Hartmut-58GradNord]

@@BoatFittings I apologize for my Swenglish... I realize that 'pedagogic' might not be the proper English word, but I'm sure you understood that I think your video was very helpful and easy to understand even for somebody who's far from being an expert in this field! Yes, that's the plan to connect a bilge pump to the leisure battery bank to prevent bilge (or - worst case scenario - the boat) from getting wet... Thank you very much for your advise!

[@erichschinzel6486]

Well explained..thank you

[@BoatFittings]

You are welcome

[@romymcintosh4104]

Hi there! We are about to attempt to re-wire a classic Nautor Swan, and this series has helped us feel more confident about doing it. We want to upgrade with some solar panels, would it be possible to show how to install a battery charger (solar/alternator/shore power) and inverter? Because that is probably one of the first jobs! Thank you :)

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Romy, Thanks for your great suggestion, I will be aiming to cover these at some point soon

[@cjmanning2456]

Aweome video! Thank you for all of the help. Does the bilge pumps you wired in work when the battery switch is off?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment / question. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery). Kind regards, Richard

[@ChristianWilloch]

Thanks for these really informative videos! Maybe you have explained it in some other video, but I see that you solder all the connections. Other places I read or see videos on boat electrics, it is not recommended at all, and only crimping is recommended on these kinds of installations. Quite confusing for a newbie like me. What is you take on the topic?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment / question. Yes I did explain this in one of the videos, but here goes: In my experience I have had some issues where crimped connections (probably poorly done ones) have come lose. I have never had an issue with a soldered connection. I prefer the security of a soldered connection over a crimped connection. I'm sure there are alternative opinions / theories so I am going from my personal experience (+ the experience of some trusted others that I have compared ideas with). All the best, Richard

[@incognitonewtab9326]

Can I use a switch that's not a seaflo and run one of the positive to the switch and the second positive to the battery to get both functions for auto and manual

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. You do not specifically need a seaflo switch. The important thing is the you achieve the equivalent functionality. One of the positives can run through a switch to the battery for manual operation. The other positive can run through a separate switch to the battery to give automatic operation. Both positives want to run through switches though. Kind regards, Richard

[@peterfraser8904]

Should a bilge pump supply be direct to the battery before the main isolator?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi this is a good question, and has been asked before. This depends on your point of view, and depends partly on whether you have separate batteries for your 'leisure' part of the system and your engine starter motor. If you have only one battery for all then you need to decide which is the greater risk for you - potentially draining your battery and not being able to start the motor, or potentially having a bilge 'full' of water. I expect some people will have strong views on this, but for me this is not a straighforward one to decide. All the best, Richard

[@dougf94912]

I've watched all three episodes and have a couple of questions. 1. Wouldn't all the cable runs be tidier if the negative buss-bar was mounted adjacent to the fuse panel? This would allow for long runs of sheathed two core wire. 2. Isn't wiring the auto/manual pump to the fuse panel a bit redundant since it's own control panel also has a fuse?

[@DavidPyle]

Can you tell me why you would run the auto bilge through two switches rather than just wiring directly through the Blue Sea switch?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks that's a fair question. There is no particular need to go through two switches, and it would be fine to run just through the Seaflo switch. I like the idea of having a 'central' switch panel ie one place where I can turn on and off systems, but that is just a personal preference. In practice in boats that I have had in the past there might be one or two switches on the main switch panel that spend most if not all of their life in the 'ON' position.

[@johndone5906]

Comment: have you considered creating a hot battery bus. At the moment the bilge pumps only operate if the battery switch is switched on. When the boat is moored the battery switch is normally turned off, then the bilge pumps will not operate. Perhaps not a desirable situation.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question regarding a 'hot battery bus'. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery).

[@thebigredone4230]

will you be covering the shore power connections?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. I think this will be a good subject to cover in a later video - I will put in on the list. All the best, Richard

[@matiasjimenez]

i liked your video and your attention to detail BUT you have to leave the batt sw on and your other sw on/auto when you leave your boat not a good practice in my opinion. I prefer to connect directly to the batt or hot batt bus.

[@Rugbaleg]

Why don’t you crimp the lugs on? What’s with the soldering?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. In my experience solder has never let me down, but crimps sometimes have - especially after a few years once corrosion has set in. I am aware that some people prefer to rely on a crimp, and I'm sure there are pros and cons for each method. Kind regards, Richard

[@rockydubois2418]

7:00 if your getting power to the switch float from the switch panel, wouldn’t the switch panel switch that it’s on need to be on for the automatic float switch to operate?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question, yes the switch panel switch would need to be on as well. There are arguments for and against wiring it in this way, generally I prefer to have the ability to turn any electrical device on and off, even if it has an automatic mode.

[@rasmusschanz1664]

Where are all the fuses??

[@toddlingren1644]

name of the wire clips your using

[@BoatFittings]

GTSE Cable tie bases (from Amazon)

[@acampbell198]

Hey Richard, I think we lost you there, is everything ok? Hoping so and that your business is doing well and keeping you busy. Looks like you have a pretty good thing going here with the videos w/ over 15k subscribers and over 70k views on this video alone. Looks like several people were really appreciating the unique content. Hope everything is ok and that you find the time to come back to video making soon. I know content production can be extremely time consuming. Thanks for what you have done so far, it's awesome!

[@davidsaucedo3]

Great video series. I know it is difficult to find the time, but you really should make these video more often. They are much appreciated. Thank You.

[@BoatFittings]

Thanks, and sorry for the long gap - I will try to get onto the next one soon. Richard

[@RonanBrowneMusic]

May I second the request for No. 4. These are fabulous videos, different from absolutely everything else on KZbin. Yer unique 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@PaxthaRippa]

I would like to see radio and stereo and fish finder install please

[@j4ckb93]

@@BoatFittings - any update on a 4th video in this excellent series?

[@MegaSuperKev]

Part 4 please! This is the best guide to boat electrics I have found on KZbin

[@PunkR0ckz09]

Glad to see this episode is out! I can't wait for ep4! Maybe a "relays, cables and fuses" related video would be nice, perhaps? You could explain why would you need relays, when would you want them, how to size cables and fuses for the appropriate circuit... I am in the process of building from scratch my dream boat. The boat I bought, it had no mechanics in it, I bought the mechanics from a separate boat and got to merge both together, so I also need to add pumps, gauges, etc and I'd like to do a proper job at it with properly sized fuses, relays where needed, etc...)

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Eric, Thanks for letting me know some of things you would like to see in episode 4. I will see how many of these I can fit in - its great to have some suggestions. All the best, Richard

[@Seafariireland]

As there is a dedicated man/auto switch for the bilge pump why do we need another switch on the 6 switch panel?

[@waterboy8999]

​@@Seafariireland so you can switch it off.

[@stuartburnside1333]

Great video series - very clear and professionally presented. Would love to see a start battery added with some sort of split charging solution added in the future.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi glad you liked the videos. I will take on board your suggestion for a future video. Kind regards, Richard

[@barddzen]

I’ve got a new (old) boat and redoing a lot of the wiring and although there aren’t many standards for marine wiring, nearly all of them state “do not rely on soldering alone for wiring connections”. I’m opting to crimp and then use waterproof shrink connectors. Where would you place a master fuse (50A) in your wiring model?

[@michaelgramaglia1183]

This is a great series! When can hope to see part 4?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - sorry to have such a large gap - I will try to do part 4 soon!!!

[@MichaelKinnane]

Part 4 please. These have been very educational. Thank you

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@dwayneroberts6616]

I'm definitely less intimidated by my switch panel now😂. I'm ready to add one with led lights and do away with my old toggle switch panel.

[@dreamingosailing5496]

Part 4 please, as others have asked. Excellent series. Would like to know how to add multiple lights into the system, nav lights, and solar panel (with solar controller).

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@boatlover8856]

Great videos!! very well explained and understandable.

[@Berelore]

Great series so far. I did notice you changed counting from the bottom to counting from the top in-between episodes 2 and 3. Also if this were a real boat I'd highly recommend a label maker for the connections at the panels and the bus.

[@theabsolutetruth2024]

@BoatFittings Darn, wish I knew what happened to this guy! It's been a year since his last video. Hope he's okay.

[@danielcookeb90]

great video! Like Einstein said, make it as simple as possible, but no simpler! Brilliant! Well done Richard. I'm wondering at the cycles these automatic elecrtonic bilge pumps are rated for? What are their Time To Failure numbers for their internal parts. And if used as designed (to actually test every 2&1/2 mins) 24-7-365 days a year, At a 2.5 minute test cycle, that's over 109,000 cycles every year????? after 2&1/2 years that's over a quarter of a million cycles? I think your inclusion of the float switch and manual pump is far safer, plus the automatic pumps with the built in float!

[@brentoneel4094]

In the US they require a breaker or fuse from the battery to the panel. It’s a good idea regardless of where you live. 😊

[@CnCEndeavors]

Where is part 4?

[@jessepushee9653]

Bilge/float switch should be hardwired directly to the battery.

[@michaelastropharia7119]

Thank you for these videos I'm about to start from scratch on my boat as the electrical work has been completely bodged and was feeling very overwhelmed untill I saw these videos. Big thanks 😊👍❤️

[@brianfedie8046]

great

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment

[@tallfloridaman8738]

Any updates on this guy and if there's a part 4 coming? I'm really into how he describes everything

[@darrengillesdarrengilles8336]

Why would you want an auto bilge draining your battery every two and a half minutes ? my worst experiences are getting in my boat and my battery being dead.

[@mag2398]

Rally great series, thanks! I'm redoing from scratch the electrical wiring of my 43 year old boat, and your videos are helping hugely. Is the next video coming soon by any chance?

[@dalecharlesphoto]

Yeah that was ace, thanks!

[@0to100Adventure]

Part 4 please ❤

[@onemodels2774]

I would like some advice please?

[@markhoward6641]

I do have one question, have subscribed so hopefully an answer at a later date. I have an automatic bilge pump in my dinghy, its run from a small battery and has a solar panel to keep it charged. Its fused, but it does not run through the main battery cut out. I need that part to pump out when im not there. What are your thoughts?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment and question. I think it is quite valid to have a pump operating outside of the main cut-off switch for the reason that you have given. The only down-side is if the pump drains your battery if that is a problem to you, but it sounds like your solar panel will keep things topped up, and understand the benefit of having a pump ready to keep the water down when you are not there.

[@frithmoore6631]

how faraway is part 4?

[@thomashutchison85]

11mo later no part 4

[@AlistairBancroft-b3j]

Can I ask why you wire the BILGE pumps through the switch panel and the battery isolator? This is the first thing I test on a survey and always get told the isolator is it won't work. So the boat only takes on water when you are on board and the isolator is on? This should be wired directly from the battery to your BILGE PUMP fused manual/ auto switch panel. Hope this helps Alistair

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Alistair, thanks for you question / comment. I take your point / recommendation / opinion - though I think there is some merit to being able to easily isolate ALL electrics in one master switch. In my opinion if I was going to leave my boat for a long time I'm uncomfortable having a device of any kind (like a pump) permanently on, in case of malfunction. Kind regards, Richard

[@francismcdermott459]

Why soldier rather than crimp, or, even better, crimp first and then solder? If the bilge pumps are switched, then every time you leave the boat switched off, the bilge is unprotected from flooding. Thank you for painstaking efforts in providing this collection.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comments. I just find soldering easy to do, and crimping not always so easy - depending on what equipment and terminals you have. As I have mentioned a few times I have not had any problems with soldered joints, but have had some with crimps. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery). Kind regards, Richard

[@carlosrosa1965]

Brilliant

[@aranf7950]

Why did you wire a fused switch for bilge pumps in a way that will be isolated from battery when you operate the main switch leaving your vessel unprotected from flooding? It's even wired to another fused switch?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment / question. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery). Kind regards, Richard

[@eichzee-xi1ug]

So glad i found these! Please, please make more. Wouldn't you want the automatic bilge pump to bypass the main power switch? Could you show how to set that up?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now. I will probably look at and discuss wiring a pump direct to the battery in that one. Kind regards, Richard

[@pledg]

Connecting a new VHF set which has a ground connection. The old set didn't. How would you easily identify a ground connection in a birds nest of someone else's wiring? Or would you run a new ground and where would you connect it?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thank for your question. Running a new wire would probably preferable. On the other hand, if this is difficult, and you have another wire that you think is a good ground wire, then you can test by using a multi-meter to do a continuity test. Take a length of wire from the negative battery lead to near where the wire is that you want to check, then put the mutl-meter inbetween the two for the continuity check (assuming you are familiar with that functionality on the multi-meter). Kind regards, Richard

[@user-tw6rm5oq9f]

Subscribed thinking I could get a full run down of installing boat electrics but only 3 episodes which is disappointing

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. Sorry to have only done 3 episodes so far, I will try to get the next one done shortly

[@scotturban2046]

Great video series! Just one question...If I run a bilge with the float switch how can I wire to allow the bilge/float to operate when the main switch is off?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question, it is possible to wire the bilge pump system direct to the battery via a separate circuit to achieve this. Kind regards, Richard

[@Klotzi5475]

why you're not wiring the bilge pump to permanently on (with auto)? that's what I have on my wooden boat for reasons.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment / question. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery). Kind regards, Richard

[@glennthompson4166]

I have worked on and wired boats for many years , one of the worst boats i ever worked on was a boat that every wire supplying the power to the object was red , you should have mentioned or , on your display used the proper colored wire for each item , there is a standard color used for each item wether it is a solid color or has a tracer on it , such as the brown for bilge , blue for lights , etc , etc , etc .

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@SV_Kittiwake]

Are you doing anymore more how to videos like using the fuse board as you already mentioned

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@dar7771]

Where’s part 4? Lol. U got me interested in your series and looks like you stopped at this one. 😢

[@BoatFittings]

Ah sorry to take so long for the next one. We have been doing a lot of design work / bespoke stainless steel fabrications and I am afraid this has lately taken up all available time. I will try to get onto part 4 soon though. Richard

[@Seacracker1]

❤

[@justinstraight5078]

Can someone please explain how to change a fuse on this sort of panel?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. With the switch panel that I have, you twist the square fuse covers and they then pop out letting you get to the fuse. All the best, Richard

[@goofy4birds]

wish it had solar coming in, best seen yet

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment - will try and get solar into a future video. Richard

[@leerigby5735]

We need number 4 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now. Kind regards, Richard