Boat Electric Wiring Made Easy, Part 3, Bilge Pumps, Float Switch, Automatic & Manual Complete Guide

[@MariDuru21]

Part for 4 and beyond please. This is one of the best DIY series in boating space!!!

[@Keysgem]

Great job explaining the basic wiring , I would like to see you do a video on how to wire an electric reel receptacle with a breaker, to this date I can’t find a video any where on the internet

[@NordicLead]

Yes. Please do more. 🙏🏻

[@acampbell198]

Hey Richard, I think we lost you there, is everything ok? Hoping so and that your business is doing well and keeping you busy. Looks like you have a pretty good thing going here with the videos w/ over 15k subscribers and over 70k views on this video alone. Looks like several people were really appreciating the unique content. Hope everything is ok and that you find the time to come back to video making soon. I know content production can be extremely time consuming. Thanks for what you have done so far, it's awesome!

[@marineworldclassifieds9867]

Man. That blew my mind away. Thanks for giving me the confidence, I'm having anxiety over where and how to begin and then your series came along, I'll be rewatching these videos a lot😅. Thank you much

[@michaelcoultmusic]

Part 4 please! This is such a well articulated guide. The world wants part 4! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼

[@_onesimpleidea]

Unfortunately, I get the feeling that he's gone (from here).

[@tideslesstraveled7127]

@@_onesimpleideaoh dear 😮

[@casperbyrresen5992]

This is by far the most easy understandable guide to boat electrics! Thank you so much for your videos! I would love to see more in this series :)

[@tomm1968]

Best boat electrical videos I've seen yet. Very clear, easy to understand instructions on the practical aspects of wiring methods. Most electrical vids are all about wire and fuse sizing, and that sort of stuff. No one ever shows you how to put it together on the boat, and why you do it that way. Great stuff. Can't wait for Episode 4!

[@jonnychapman2010]

This bilge pump setup seems as though the master switch would cut power to both bilge pumps? Would you not want at least one wired more directly to the battery so that when you turn off the power at the main switch, the bilge pumps can still operate - to pump out rain water whilst on a mooring etc? Great video and really helpful!

[@genglandoh]

On my sailboat I wire my safety items the following way 1. Automatic bilge pump thru the special auto Manual switch then to the batteries 2. VHF bypasses the switch panel but is not wired directly to the batteries. This way when I leave the boat I turn off the master switch cutting power to everything except the automatic bilge pump. To turn on the VHF radio I turn on the master switch then the switch on the VHF Radio.. This way if the switch panel has a problem I can still use the radio.

[@davidsaucedo3]

Great video series. I know it is difficult to find the time, but you really should make these video more often. They are much appreciated. Thank You.

[@BoatFittings]

Thanks, and sorry for the long gap - I will try to get onto the next one soon. Richard

[@RonanBrowneMusic]

May I second the request for No. 4. These are fabulous videos, different from absolutely everything else on KZbin. Yer unique 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@PaxthaRippa]

I would like to see radio and stereo and fish finder install please

[@j4ckb93]

@@BoatFittings - any update on a 4th video in this excellent series?

[@SuperKevSan]

Part 4 please! This is the best guide to boat electrics I have found on KZbin

[@MichaelKinnane]

Part 4 please. These have been very educational. Thank you

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@michaelastropharia7119]

Thank you for these videos I'm about to start from scratch on my boat as the electrical work has been completely bodged and was feeling very overwhelmed untill I saw these videos. Big thanks 😊👍❤️

[@brucemonighan2925]

Electrics are my achilles heal. You are makking this so understandable. Please keep the videos coming.

[@starling2393]

Thank you so much for this, as someone trying to understand the inner workings of a boat this is gold.

[@Captain_Yogurt]

Huge thank you! I recently started working as a marine electricians “apprentice” despite having been very clear in my interviews that I had limited electrical experience. I’ve already retained more info on the actual connections from these three videos then I did in my first month on the job. I’ve been mostly running wires, but now I feel much more prepared for the next step of connecting everything up

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your comment. I hope your apprenticeship leads you into some interesting projects - would be great to hear any interesting lessons that you may learn as time goes on. All the best, Richard

[@athmss]

Good look. You start by the right place.

[@whitestarhorros3374]

Thank you for your videos. I have been working on my 1972 Tollycraft 40, I decided to rewire it as the wiring was, let's say interestingly badly maintained. I thought it would be "fun" to just rewire, lol. In 1972 there really was no off-grid type of wiring so everything was wired for a genset or dc and shore power. Well I wanted to simplify and upgrade to new wire codes, lots of fun so far. I have taken this Tollycraft 40 to a new level of totally off-grid self sustained life. Watching your videos are helping me understand the dc side of wiring in its simplest form, as i do have extensive knowledge in the ac side from my off-grid projects. Awesome videos thanks again. 👍

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment, I hope your re-wiring project works out well. Richard

[@kyetechdroneaerials1587]

Excellent Series! I was hoping I’d see ignition wiring, I’m about to start a total rewire. Hopefully I can find videos from someone as thorough as yours! Thank You !! 🚤

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment.

[@brianwest1501]

Another good job. My son lives in Mexico. He recently replaced his bilge pumps. I’m going to share your vids with him. He will gain a lot of knowledge watching your channel. Cheers!!

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment, and for passing these details on to your son - I hope it is useful for him. Kind regards, Richard

[@stuartburnside1333]

Great video series - very clear and professionally presented. Would love to see a start battery added with some sort of split charging solution added in the future.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi glad you liked the videos. I will take on board your suggestion for a future video. Kind regards, Richard

[@markhoward6641]

Im a domestic installer and do EICRs have also wired out my sailing dinghy. That said, really good and i like your finer points a lot. Taking this to my 27 foot yacht that im now renovating. Many thanks.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comments, glad to be of some help. Kind regards, Richard

[@PunkR0ckz09]

Glad to see this episode is out! I can't wait for ep4! Maybe a "relays, cables and fuses" related video would be nice, perhaps? You could explain why would you need relays, when would you want them, how to size cables and fuses for the appropriate circuit... I am in the process of building from scratch my dream boat. The boat I bought, it had no mechanics in it, I bought the mechanics from a separate boat and got to merge both together, so I also need to add pumps, gauges, etc and I'd like to do a proper job at it with properly sized fuses, relays where needed, etc...)

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Eric, Thanks for letting me know some of things you would like to see in episode 4. I will see how many of these I can fit in - its great to have some suggestions. All the best, Richard

[@Seafariireland]

As there is a dedicated man/auto switch for the bilge pump why do we need another switch on the 6 switch panel?

[@waterboy8999]

​@@Seafariireland so you can switch it off.

[@barddzen]

I’ve got a new (old) boat and redoing a lot of the wiring and although there aren’t many standards for marine wiring, nearly all of them state “do not rely on soldering alone for wiring connections”. I’m opting to crimp and then use waterproof shrink connectors. Where would you place a master fuse (50A) in your wiring model?

[@devinharp636]

The way you have presented this , I applaud you!! Thanks so much for making this straight forward and understandable. Oklahoma USA ❤️

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - glad you like the videos. Kind regards, Richard

[@pauldevault6384]

Thank you SO much for these videos. Found them extremely straightforward and easy to understand. Much appreciated, Cheers!

[@gerd-ch3854]

Great educational video. Explained by someone who do the things he like with love.

[@justthatbloke]

Really excellent series, the ‘Sailrite’ of boat electrical work. Please keep making videos.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks very much for your comment.

[@dreamingosailing5496]

Part 4 please, as others have asked. Excellent series. Would like to know how to add multiple lights into the system, nav lights, and solar panel (with solar controller).

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@terenceclark4441]

If a 4th videos comes great, the first 3 are great been wondering how ill go about wireing up my boat , these films are Ace , thanks for making them massive help

[@PIZDARJA]

Thank you Sir! Great videos and explanation! I have a question: where would you connect a supply power cable from an outboard engine and where a cable from a battery charger fixed on the boat? Thank you again!

[@mm1285]

Please do a part 4 !!! This is so helpful!!!

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now. Kind regards, Richard

[@jeffdege4786]

Everything you've done so far is switched - as in turned off if the master switch is turned off. There are circuits on the boat that should still be powered if the master switch is turned off - automatic bilge pumps being one example. Or, at least, if your boat is left in the water when unattended, the bilge pump should not be wired through the master switch (though you would want it to have its own switch).

[@gogetnic]

Totally. I was looking for this comment. That boat is sinking.

[@Berelore]

Great series so far. I did notice you changed counting from the bottom to counting from the top in-between episodes 2 and 3. Also if this were a real boat I'd highly recommend a label maker for the connections at the panels and the bus.

[@michaelgramaglia1183]

This is a great series! When can hope to see part 4?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - sorry to have such a large gap - I will try to do part 4 soon!!!

[@lilscrubbies_7803]

Plz do part 4. This is so helpful!

[@RichardSchaffer-fd4uj]

Finally, something well done & made simple. Thank you very much.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@elgar104]

Very clear. Thank you. Part 4 would be great! And could you cover amps and wire rating choices please....perhaps when you tackle the fuse box?

[@GioBen68]

Excellent tutorial! Thank you 🙏🏼 one question though : if you switch off the battery and remove the key, the automatic bilge pump will not work if one day there is water while you are not on board, correct? Shouldn’t the bilge pump be directly wired to the battery?

[@heddyrockets]

Without a doubt the best I've seen.it just makes things easy to understand.well 👍

[@boatlover8856]

Great videos!! very well explained and understandable.

[@eichzee-xi1ug]

So glad i found these! Please, please make more. Wouldn't you want the automatic bilge pump to bypass the main power switch? Could you show how to set that up?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now. I will probably look at and discuss wiring a pump direct to the battery in that one. Kind regards, Richard

[@briangillespie2709]

Hey Richard, great video series! Looking forward to the next one showing a fuze panel instead of a switch panel.

[@BoatFittings]

H Brian, thanks for you comment. Hope to make the next one soon

[@intrepidproductions9625]

Any plans to complete the series?... first 3 have been very useful, thanks!

[@davisscott8499]

This is an absolute gem thanks for the effort you put into this

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@JSGregg]

I've never wired a boat, I just find wiring interesting. Looks like once you've done a couple circuits, it becomes pretty repetitive. Positive -> Fuse/Breaker -> Switch -> Device -> Negative. Once you grasp that, you can easily add in whatever you need. One thing to consider is using a relay to switch higher current loads like motors, then a toggle/rocker switch to activate the relay. Saves your switch contacts a bit and may keep you from doing long runs of thick wire. Especially for motors, which are electrically spikey and noisy, a solid state relay may be the most reliable (the name brand ones), as opposed to running it through a toggle/rocker.

[@XavierPil]

This is the best !!!!!! You make it so clear that I am about to rip off all my cables and start from scratch…. But i know i shouldn’t😅

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thank for your comment. Sometimes it is easier to start from scratch, but a bit daunting - only you can decide :) Good luck

[@Kaiwk]

Anxiously waiting for part 4! I NEED to know how to wire multiple cabin lights

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now. Kind regards, Richard

[@TheRichwell]

I’m Stoked. It’s just what I needed. Boating for a Dummy! Part 1 Electrical 😅

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - glad to be of help! Richard

[@davehardy2080]

Excellent information! Thanks from Melbourne Australia

[@BoatFittings]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@mag2398]

Rally great series, thanks! I'm redoing from scratch the electrical wiring of my 43 year old boat, and your videos are helping hugely. Is the next video coming soon by any chance?

[@simonmcentee]

Part 4 please, these are excellent 👍🏻

[@BoatFittings]

Thanks for your comment - just planning part 4 now. Kind regards, Richard

[@buzzune]

Richard, these are so very helpful! I have a 78 Ericson 34 and am having to troubleshoot wiring. My 12v panels (have 2), no longer receive power from the battery or they are not working anyway. We tested the batteries (have two), tested continuity to our switcher. I’ve cleaned the connections of corrosion, etc but still no power. And, these panels worked a few weeks ago. Only thing I changed is I added a Smart Plug shore power hookup for my AC power. Also now having a “Reverse Polarity” warning to boot!! Any tips? Again, we’ll done on these videos, very helpful for a new sailboat owner!!

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment. With your current problem my first suggestion would be to temporarily disconnect the new 'Smart Plug' to see if that resolves the problem - if that is the case then you can say that it looks like the problem was introduced with the Smart Plug, if that does not resolve the problem it is a case of working from the battery 'outwards'.

[@pooyaejtemaei6444]

Great video. It would be amazing if you could show how to use the multimeter to trouble shoot electrical issues using the model. Thank you again for the amazing video.

[@lambertodigioia5084]

Thank you SO much for these amazing how-to videos. In this one (part 3), you refer to a manual override option for the first bilge pump. Do you recommend resorting to a separate 3 positions (on/off/auto) switch like the one used for the second pump, or to use the panel (on/off) switch for manual override and have the auto-switch bypassing the panel (to stay always on on auto)? Thanks

[@RonaldEvans-gj4uc]

Videos are super helpful, thank you very much for breaking this down. I would love to see a video on NEMA2000 networking and how to build an integrated system from scratch. Cheers.

[@atp485]

Appreciate you taking the time to make these videos.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment. All the best, Richard

[@grantandrews8559]

Really appreciate you taking the time. This helps a great deal

[@BoatFittings]

Many thanks for your kind comments.

[@tonyjamel5229]

Part 4 please..best videos by far

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@joesharp5602]

Great channel and equally great series on marine electrical wiring. I look forward to your future videos... Cheers... Joe

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Joe, Very glad to hear that you are liking the videos so far. I will try and get the next one done shortly.

[@calidude5116]

I like how you explain alot. Can you make a video on wiring a different battery switch or multiples. I watched your 3 videos demos so far. Thanks bro

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment, and suggestion for a future video - I will try to include your request in a future video

[@NuanceMusicLib]

thank you for fantastic easy to understand guidance. I look forward to you finding time to show how to connect the system with shore power. 😉

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your kind comment, I will be including some additional wiring steps in the next video - shore power will be in one of the future videos. Kind regards, Richrad

[@captain-Dan]

My god I needed this! Please continue the series

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - these kind of comments inspire me to get the next one done - just need to find a little time! Richard

[@danielcookeb90]

great video! Like Einstein said, make it as simple as possible, but no simpler! Brilliant! Well done Richard. I'm wondering at the cycles these automatic elecrtonic bilge pumps are rated for? What are their Time To Failure numbers for their internal parts. And if used as designed (to actually test every 2&1/2 mins) 24-7-365 days a year, At a 2.5 minute test cycle, that's over 109,000 cycles every year????? after 2&1/2 years that's over a quarter of a million cycles? I think your inclusion of the float switch and manual pump is far safer, plus the automatic pumps with the built in float!

[@johnk9654]

Thank you so much for these videos. Can't wait for the next one. Two questions though. 1. Would you want the auto bilge pump wired before the master on so it can run while away from boat without other power on? 2. What is the make / model of that dc power supply. What amp model should I be looking for? I need to get one. Thanks.

[@philipkenneth24]

Well done sir. Excellent explanation and demonstration

[@scotturban2046]

Great video series! Just one question...If I run a bilge with the float switch how can I wire to allow the bilge/float to operate when the main switch is off?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question, it is possible to wire the bilge pump system direct to the battery via a separate circuit to achieve this. Kind regards, Richard

[@mikejohnson5157]

Question, it seems that the positive wire for the 2nd bilge pump goes thru the fuse panel. Wouldn't you wire the auto wire direct? The auto feature will not work unless that switch is on, meaning the isolator must be on as well. Forgive me if I missed something.

[@timhodges9763]

Richard I can't afford nothing but an aluminium John boat. I've been wiring it for lights. Running lights and a couple spot lights for night fishing. I built a wooden box to attach my switch panel. Was planning to run switch panel directly to the battery. Then run positive wires from lights to switches and negative wires to a buz bar then buz bar to negative post on the battery. Does that sound workable. Oh my switch panel has resetable circuit breakers. Thank you for your attention

[@JohnCornellier]

Fantastic videos, can't wait for more. Question though: in 2023 why are we still using fuses rather than breakers? Are fuses just cheaper? Or is there some technical difference?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi John, Thanks that seems like a good question. I happened to have the 'fuse-type' handy to make the video, I beleive you can buy the equivalent panel with breakers, I guess it is a cost vs convenience balance. Richard

[@lildeena1]

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I don't have bus bars and my auto bilge has been disconnected for years. Can I just wire up a system completely isolated from everything else and keep the 3 way switch mounted near the stern near the battery compartment and pump? and run my pos / neg direct to the battery?

[@tallfloridaman8738]

Any updates on this guy and if there's a part 4 coming? I'm really into how he describes everything

[@dziubo1]

Awesome video! One question, that wasn't really explained. Connecting negative from automatic bilge pump and negative togeather wasn't necessary, right? We could separatly connect it to the bus, as far as I understand.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. Yes if I understand your question correctly, both wires could have been brought to the busbar to achieve the same effect. Kind regards, Richard

[@jls1495]

Great to have a part 4 please !..otherwise there will be hundreds of part wired boats sailing around 😮

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@1spencerneal]

Great videos. Very useful and reassuring, especially as I recognise the switch panels and busbars. Question, why does my LED cabin light dim when the bilge pump's test routine kicks in. If I switch the light off and then back on, it returns to full brightness. The light works fine, even when the pump is actively pumping. Is there some way to fix/prevent this? Many thanks.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment. That's an interesting problem - a bit confusing. It sounds like the action of the bilge pump is causing a voltage drop in the lighting circuit, which the LED is not very good and handling. Without further knowledge of how your circuits are laid out, I can only suggest to look into separating the bilge pump wiring from the lighting wiring, if that makes sense? The other thing you can do is to check the voltage at the battery to see if it is up to scratch. Kind regards, Richard

[@nortonmolly]

Thanks for putting this video together. Please keep doing it👍👍

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Andrew - many thanks for the feedback, will keep going as there's lots more to cover

[@Turaelin]

Thank you! As someone who has been electrically challenged for his whole life, I thank you. It is simple wiring that I just can't "see" in my head. This series is finally making sense. I don't need the theory, I need hands-on, step-by-step how-to's that make real-world sense to me. I do wish you had walked us through each step, especially the switch, how it was wired and why... (and may I ask why ALL "power" or "hot" wires are not RED??? IMHO if a wire carries 'live current', it should be RED...) I am working my way slowly into the existing wiring and my need to repair / update / add / remove systems as I upgrade and refit our sailboat in preparation to liveaboard and cruise. I am currently trying to wire up a secondary diesel fuel pump (Edelbrock 38GHP #17302) for my DIY dual Racor 500FG Diesel Polishing system... and I will admit to being a little stumped trying to wire up a 2 way, 3 pole toggle switch... (I have since decided to use a 30A 2 pole Breaker Switch instead...) PLEASE keep going, and please keep it at a Boat Wiring for Dummies level!! =] CJ&JD Blackwell SV Rocinante 95' Gozzard 44 MK1A

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment and questions. I do believe that all of the positive wires are indeed RED as they should be. Good luck with your re-wiring All the best, Richard

[@highonbanana8265]

We really need the next parts ❤️

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@cward8110]

for the auto bilge pump, utilizing the 3way switch for auto/off/manual, is it necessary to utilize the main switch panel as well or could you just bypass and wire the 3-way switch directly to a power and negative terminals...the use of both switches for the one pump seems redundant

[@pifprime]

May I ask why not breakers instead of fuses? Breakers you can reset on the spot?

[@Keepingitreeled]

Sir! Thank you very much for these videos….

[@denisconnaughton2923]

Excellent video again. Love these for sure. Thank you.

[@BoatFittings]

Many thanks for your kind comment.

[@dougf94912]

I've watched all three episodes and have a couple of questions. 1. Wouldn't all the cable runs be tidier if the negative buss-bar was mounted adjacent to the fuse panel? This would allow for long runs of sheathed two core wire. 2. Isn't wiring the auto/manual pump to the fuse panel a bit redundant since it's own control panel also has a fuse?

[@athmss]

Thank you again. It is very useful classes. Alex from Brasil.

[@BoatFittings]

Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Kind regards, Richard

[@AlistairBancroft-b3j]

Can I ask why you wire the BILGE pumps through the switch panel and the battery isolator? This is the first thing I test on a survey and always get told the isolator is it won't work. So the boat only takes on water when you are on board and the isolator is on? This should be wired directly from the battery to your BILGE PUMP fused manual/ auto switch panel. Hope this helps Alistair

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Alistair, thanks for you question / comment. I take your point / recommendation / opinion - though I think there is some merit to being able to easily isolate ALL electrics in one master switch. In my opinion if I was going to leave my boat for a long time I'm uncomfortable having a device of any kind (like a pump) permanently on, in case of malfunction. Kind regards, Richard

[@cjmanning2456]

Aweome video! Thank you for all of the help. Does the bilge pumps you wired in work when the battery switch is off?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment / question. I understand that some people would prefer to have a 'permantly-on' circuit for their automatic bilge pump, and agree that there is a logic to this. In a future video I will include this type of wiring. In any case though, my preference is to have a way of easilily turning off ALL electrics in the boat, from the point of view of not having to worry about the possibility of electrical mal-function while away from the boat - I think this is a matter of choice and priority (dry bilge vs electrical safety or run-down battery). Kind regards, Richard

[@hgwaring]

Thank you for these videos. I'm wiring an electrical system for a 1973 Pearson Ensign daysailer from scratch and this series has been the most informative. My biggest question now is at 12:40 you connect the three wires for the bilge pump by soldering them and covering with heat shrink. If this were within the bilge in a wet area, is there any gap between the two wires that would compromise the waterproofing? Are there any products you are aware of or recommendations you have for a waterproof connection among the three wires without soldering?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your great question. I have not yet come across a purpose made waterproof electrical connector for 3 wires sadly. The only solution I would think of would be to solder the wires and then 'pot' them in a surrounding which would allow you to silicone them all in place for water-proofing. Kind regards, Richard

[@myakupozer]

Thx for your efforts.

[@romymcintosh4104]

Hi there! We are about to attempt to re-wire a classic Nautor Swan, and this series has helped us feel more confident about doing it. We want to upgrade with some solar panels, would it be possible to show how to install a battery charger (solar/alternator/shore power) and inverter? Because that is probably one of the first jobs! Thank you :)

[@BoatFittings]

Hi Romy, Thanks for your great suggestion, I will be aiming to cover these at some point soon

[@ChristianWilloch]

Thanks for these really informative videos! Maybe you have explained it in some other video, but I see that you solder all the connections. Other places I read or see videos on boat electrics, it is not recommended at all, and only crimping is recommended on these kinds of installations. Quite confusing for a newbie like me. What is you take on the topic?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment / question. Yes I did explain this in one of the videos, but here goes: In my experience I have had some issues where crimped connections (probably poorly done ones) have come lose. I have never had an issue with a soldered connection. I prefer the security of a soldered connection over a crimped connection. I'm sure there are alternative opinions / theories so I am going from my personal experience (+ the experience of some trusted others that I have compared ideas with). All the best, Richard

[@rexlu580]

Thanks a lot, mate, you are the legend.

[@SV_Kittiwake]

Are you doing anymore more how to videos like using the fuse board as you already mentioned

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for you comment. I am planning out part 4 now, so hopefully not too long away. Kind regards, Richard

[@thebigredone4230]

will you be covering the shore power connections?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. I think this will be a good subject to cover in a later video - I will put in on the list. All the best, Richard

[@josephkumor5452]

This really helped I hope to see more videos

[@peterfraser8904]

Should a bilge pump supply be direct to the battery before the main isolator?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi this is a good question, and has been asked before. This depends on your point of view, and depends partly on whether you have separate batteries for your 'leisure' part of the system and your engine starter motor. If you have only one battery for all then you need to decide which is the greater risk for you - potentially draining your battery and not being able to start the motor, or potentially having a bilge 'full' of water. I expect some people will have strong views on this, but for me this is not a straighforward one to decide. All the best, Richard

[@edwardwoolsey3806]

Excellent ...Thank you very much.

[@martyb3783]

Very informative video! Well done!

[@BoatFittings]

Glad it was helpful!

[@incognitonewtab9326]

Can I use a switch that's not a seaflo and run one of the positive to the switch and the second positive to the battery to get both functions for auto and manual

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your question. You do not specifically need a seaflo switch. The important thing is the you achieve the equivalent functionality. One of the positives can run through a switch to the battery for manual operation. The other positive can run through a separate switch to the battery to give automatic operation. Both positives want to run through switches though. Kind regards, Richard

[@brentoneel4094]

In the US they require a breaker or fuse from the battery to the panel. It’s a good idea regardless of where you live. 😊

[@dalecharlesphoto]

Yeah that was ace, thanks!

[@Hartmut-58GradNord]

Great video! We just watched Part 1-3 and were already looking for Part 4 of your boat electric wiring tutorial. We read a lot about boat electrics as we have to completely or almost completely redo the electrical system in our 40 years old sailboat. Your tutorial is very pedagogic and easy to understand for rookies like us - thanks a lot! One question: wouldn't it be better to connect the bilge pump prior to the main switch as one would like to have it connected all the time?

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comments (I had to look up pedagogic - but I think I get it) As for the bilge pump direct wiring to main switch that is a good question. There is some argument to have one bilge pump directly wired prior the main switch, if you prioritise keep bilges dry over possibly running down your battery. Personally I think that option makes most sense if you have multiple battery banks - reserving one for starting the engine, and another for leisure (the bilge pump would then be wired into the leisure battery bank). Even then it is important to include a fuse in this circuit.

[@Hartmut-58GradNord]

@@BoatFittings I apologize for my Swenglish... I realize that 'pedagogic' might not be the proper English word, but I'm sure you understood that I think your video was very helpful and easy to understand even for somebody who's far from being an expert in this field! Yes, that's the plan to connect a bilge pump to the leisure battery bank to prevent bilge (or - worst case scenario - the boat) from getting wet... Thank you very much for your advise!

[@perpedersen6226]

Excellent series of videos! Thanks for this. Can just add myself to the choir: part 4 please🙏 But I understand if you have to do other work to make a living. 😉

[@BoatFittings]

Hi thanks for your comment - I am planning part 4 now, so hopefully not too long now. Kind regards, Richard

[@SydonX3]

Great video, still very useful!