Bit Basics: The Spade Bit

Horseman Richard Winters explains why this oft-misunderstood bit is revered by horsemen who appreciate a finished bridle horse. Read more about the spade bit in the May 2020 issue of Western Horseman.

[@antonioflores1406]

greetings from Mexico!

[@Paul11B2P]

Thank you. Great information. I know many people when they first see the spade bit they are taken a back. But as you explained if a rider understands how to properly utilize this bit it can be very useful.

[@dalstars24]

Interesting! Thanks!

[@TightwadTodd]

A spade with "Tongue Relief" is a contradiction too how the bit was designed to be carried. Puts pressure points, on the bars and tongue.

[@eduardosimao7847]

Eduardo🐎simao lindo

[@bows4girls]

Could you move a horse to a more traditional bit from a floating spade bit? I am purchasing an Appaloosa that has been using this bit, but I am very unfamiliar with it, and hate to give him mixed signals. Thanks!

[@anthonysoares9936]

try the half breed mouthpiece.

[@roxanedevos5390]

You can also start in a hackamore to get you (the human) used to the mechanics of this style of riding

[@gerrycoleman7290]

Some traditions need to be cast aside and left to the dust of time. The spade bit is one such piece of equipment. You want the ultimate............watch 310 Ranch cowboys work cattle without any head gear.

[@OliveDeuce]

i can appreciate both things... watching horses work bridless is amazing, but so is a well trained bridle horse. what you don't know is that these bridle horses can perform these same tasks while tackless as well. Everything they can do in a spade bit, they are able to do in any other bit as well. As he said, you can't just put this bit in any horse... they would freak out, which is why this is the epitome of finished horse that has trusted bond with it's rider. The bit requires the most highly skilled horse and rider, and it gives very techinical cues.

[@gerrycoleman7290]

@@OliveDeuce A horse will 'tell' you if they are more comfortable without a bit through their body language.

[@sunriseboy4837]

Good information. Thank you. But, IMO, it isn't the horse that needs many years of preparation, it's the boofhead riders who've got hands like two short planks, and half a brain. When I see riders yanking on the reigns, and the animal's head jerking back, I feel like I need to go out and kick the dog! Personally, I'm a no bridle man.

[@millsix999]

“Not that it’s a harsh bit, not that it’s severe…” = yep, it is. That how it was designed. “Signal” - ? Hahaha. Pain, you bet.

[@jaelhoward4621]

It's not, at all. The spoon and spade bits are for horses that are properly trained to carry themselves, and the bit correctly- as well as respond to more than just rein pressure. Because of this level of training, only the lightest ammount of signaling comes from the hand, and the majority of cues come from the rider's seat, leg, and voice. Thus, the spoon/spade is only suitible for highly advanced horses and riders. I hope this cleared up any misconceptions you may have!

[@Pizzaafriez1]

@@jaelhoward4621 can I use this explanation bc it’s a good one

[@jaelhoward4621]

@@Pizzaafriez1 If you like! Really, my explanation could have been much more thorough- but I find it is much better to be direct, and to the point with these things.

[@TightwadTodd]

A snaffle is more severe, contrary to popular belief.

[@jaelhoward4621]

@@TightwadTodd Also a common misconception! A snaffle bit works off of direct rein contact, as opposed to the indirect rein with a leverage bit. With a snaffle, the rider's hands are directly connected to the bit. When the rider signals the horse via the rein, the "amount" of signal the rider gives is equal to what the horse feels. With a leverage bit, this signal is amplified. Therefore, the signal the rider gives must be much smaller, otherwise, it will be too strong for the horse. This is why, in many cases; an average English rider in a snaffle will ride with constant contact, whereas an average Western rider in a shank will generally have a looser rein with no contact at all, and only cue when needed. In the snaffle, the rider can only be so harsh. A rider can only pull back with so much force, and the horse can only feel as much as the rider can give. In the shank, the rider still has their own limitations, but due to the length, and shape of the shanks, what the horse feels can be more than doubled. So, this means--- depending on the bit, either can be far stronger, or gentler than the other. But, as a general rule, you can not get the same maximum force with a snaffle, as you could with a shank. Therefore, neither bit IS more severe than the other, but one CAN be. I hope this cleared up any misconceptions you may have about the snaffle bit.