Black Diamond presents: Shawn Raboutou - “Devilution” V16

Black Diamond welcomes Shawn Raboutou to the team. This video features the second ascent of "Devilution" which is the low start to the infamous "Evolution" (v12) first put up by Jason Kehl. The low start remained a project until this year when Sean Bailey did the first ascent. Enjoy!
Filmed by: Eric Bissell + Spenser Tang-Smith
Edit by: Bobby Vannoy
Music: She's lost Control - Joy Division
Multilateral Nuclear Disarmament - Beastie Boys

[@wyetti]

Shawn the frank ocean of climbing, he disappears but we all know he’s somewhere creating some fire

[@rickittyrickith7028]

Bro r u slow? Frankie aint creating shit 4 us...

[@wyetti]

@@rickittyrickith7028 i can assure you he is always working on something.

[@jakesreilly]

yes love this

[@wyetti]

@@rickittyrickith7028 i can assure you that he is always working on something lol

[@stefslocs]

Facts

[@climbjacksprat]

places rock on bouldering pad. we have come full circle.

[@maxfern5701]

Need to put a tiny pad on top of it

[@maximebarber3780]

@@maxfern5701 Need to put a tiny rock on that tiny pad so it does not fly away

[@gezzapk]

@@maxfern5701don’t give black diamond any ideas

[@jaredpablo-perez2465]

Never ceases to amaze me how Shawn will send some of the hardest problems in the world and after topping out just be like “Cool, man”

[@middle-agedclimber]

Was there ever a single time he threw a tantrum "faaaaaaaak, you ffff....kn piece of sh..."? I guess not

[@imnotriley23]

Makes me wonder what his limit actually is

[@TristanCleveland]

I feel like I would be more excited if i sent v16.

[@decadeca]

​@@imnotriley23fucken this! He's the epitome of mellow, so mellow that there's no way he's executing at full potential. Bro has so much untapped stored energy.

[@lukemccann9695]

I see shawn raboutou and I click, simple.

[@dimitart8826]

Men scroll. Men see shawn rabatou. Men happy

[@danschmidt5189]

Devilution is nice and all, but this is also basically the best beta video for Evilution ever.

[@menidonttrust]

That’s exactly what I was thinking

[@kevincassman6214]

Cruised it

[@andrewhunter6536]

Where does Evilution start? It is a higher start right? But how many moves in?

[@menidonttrust]

@@andrewhunter6536 Evilution begins when Shawn makes the third hand move. Devilution adds two ridiculously difficult moves to the beginning (single move 14/15 if I recall correctly?)

[@danschmidt5189]

@@andrewhunter6536 I think it's just two moves in. It's the hold he jumps to / snatches with the left hand.

[@dylan-howell]

Felt like I was watching free solo 2, what a boulder!

[@blairdowis491]

the zoom out at the end truly struck fear into my heart!

[@Yakushii]

In case you don't know, we call it a "high-ball" when it sort of skirts the line between boulder and rope, but you end up doing it as a boulder.

[@TristanCleveland]

@@blairdowis491 The heel hook at the lip is what got me. So much confidence in his hand, given what the fall would mean for his head.

[@therealbatman8085]

@@Yakushiiis an 80 foot highball actually a highball or a solo? Idk the height of this bolder but this feels almost past highball

[@maxfern5701]

@@TristanCleveland Yeah some heel hooks in the gym feel sketchy at times, couldn't imagine this one.

[@gillesparez9119]

First V16 on Giedi Prime, GG

[@sportenapfeltorten2095]

OMG :DDDDD lol

[@audetetvincit]

style seems so little discussed in climbing but is so important. Shawn has the purest most elegant and powerful style, such technique and form and coordination. like art moving over stone.

[@BoboBish]

Simpin

[@constanceelaine3909]

this

[@jlehm]

The only “style” that matters is if it was in “good style”. I.e. adhering to the ethics of the time and not “cheating” or damaging anything.

[@jfireclimbing]

Reminds me of Ty Landman, which is incredibly high praise

[@benwales8582]

Other pro climbers say he has a "little kid style" of climbing. :)

[@hcmillion]

shawn + mellow = great day

[@c_healy]

That upper section just before it turns into a slab looks terrifying!

[@stefanoprovera8802]

Overhanging boulder to vertical climbing to slab free solo to rocky hiking, quite a trip!

[@BlackdownBlocs]

The gritty aesthetics in the cinematography compliments the boulder and the send so much

[@khakicam5400]

Plus Joy Division for the intro

[@elliotrichards6948]

First Scarpa, now BD. Love to see Shawn getting the recognition he deserves 🦾

[@otpeezy5788]

Agreed, but also disappointed he went with a company like BD

[@im_imo]

@@otpeezy5788what's wrong with BD?

[@mikej243]

@@im_imofaulty sos emergency rescue equipment, which is terrifying

[@jon-williammurphy9780]

@@otpeezy5788 meh, more integrity than TNF

[@mongoose1804]

@@otpeezy5788let’s hope he’s not being paid in shoes. He’d never climb anything again

[@McClergy]

That reveal shot at 4:10 is so perfect

[@Jagknorr]

This is how you make a send vid. Not overly artistic with worthless shorts and “stories. Straight forward and fairly short with music that doesn’t blow butt. Standard but effective pump up that matches the beat of the climb. Classic. Great send.

[@isaacgreenwald9408]

not the devilution video we expected, but the one we needed

[@marc-antoinerodrigue5703]

that last shot when he climbs the slab and the camera just keep following him! great edit and music choice

[@klocekhd]

This is my fav video on youtube and I'm not even joking. Love the editing, music, boulder and Shawn ofc

[@dqle189]

Dude. This video is great. Understated, just enough editing, no contrived story about overcoming hardship, etc... Great shots, great music choice. hope there're more videos of the same nature.

[@jlehm]

Going black and white to add some visual interest back into a horrible light situation and to make all the noise look like intentional film grain was a very good move. 👍

[@tylerbeecroft419]

Shawn puts the mellow in mellow climbing

[@konkelkent]

Doing the whole Black diamond partnership announcment video using only Scarpa shoes is a Boss move :D

[@Arithmophobia]

and organic pads

[@jonathanrossddsmhs1271]

BD chalk bag though

[@playboimarty]

I hope he still gets to wear fresh ass nf drip tho

[@lukedamenti9518]

The only Shawn Raboutou video a mortal would use for beta

[@friedpuppy_6524]

Damn crazy this wasn’t announced 💀

[@jaredpablo-perez2465]

True Shawn fashion tho

[@lawsong6663]

Same with aidan roberts, he's done something a couple months ago that he hasn't released yet (probably can't really say but it's big)

[@andrewskerratt8353]

@@lawsong6663same w Bailey lol

[@Arithmophobia]

@@lawsong6663 spots of time 🤫🤫🤫

[@lawsong6663]

@@Arithmophobia careless talk gang

[@Cillet]

The way Shawn cruised that top out.. I was nervous watching to be honest.

[@ericlin158]

All the tiny little shifts and movements are cool to see. That’s what I need to get better now. Strength and power are ALWAYS needed but I think the movement vocabulary to fuel changes in microbeta is underrated

[@armas5056]

Massive rock. Girth and texture 10/10

[@michptrs]

joy division🙌🙌

[@chuckz28]

Damn, a fall from any part of that mantle or slab would be bad news. Great climb

[@el_mal_de_ojo]

The technique is flawless, like art

[@jon-williammurphy9780]

Good ole Shawn Rabbitshoes at it again. Love the grainy vid for a grainy boulder. Felt like if the Harkonnens were chill

[@playboimarty]

My devilution, My dune

[@a-j.2002]

One of the best climbing videos ever.

[@CollinGill7]

so much power, so much control, so much finesse

[@mardev2967]

1 move in and its already insane

[@MichaelaKiersch]

the b&w is sick

[@user-bx4zq7fx7e]

Now I want him to send Lucid Dreaming so bad

[@christopherdriscoll1697]

As much as the business down low, his footwork up top hopping around is just incredible.

[@JohnDennery]

I watched Sean Bailey FA this in person and I have to say…y’all should’ve let him get his video out first. Great work on the repeat though, it’s an epic line for sure. I really enjoyed seeing all the holds of evilution from those angles as well.

[@xigeng]

Brooke's brother is so strong.

[@ashhodson2063]

Outstanding music choice!

[@jacksonmoore1378]

just once i'd like to see this dude get visibly excited

[@jMelo215]

Pretty crazy to catch that left hand crimp in a 3 finger drag 🤯

[@dave990]

Highballs are the best. What a mega boulder

[@Dstryrrr]

What a piece of art.

[@elliotrichards6948]

Been waiting for this one. Shawn is an absolute beast 🔥

[@fyrula]

Such awesome work!

[@bongosock]

Amazing combination of power and elegance!

[@aderomandala]

Made it look chill. Love the black and white edit

[@DarkSideOfTethys]

Such amazing climbing as always!! Always love a good surprise send vid

[@TerjeMathisen]

Just that topout on its own would have caused most of us to be totally gripped.

[@banwww]

Instant classic. Congratulations on the video and the send. Consider my head bowed.

[@walmyrcarvalhoo]

Such a good video, the B&W effect, the soundtrack, everything is on point. I also love the fact that Shawn looks so chill climbing this, so cool. I've been climbing for 8+ months now and videos like this are inspiring!

[@hooey226]

excellent song choices

[@HammernoooB]

So strong, love the music and the photography

[@augustclimbing]

WOW, congrats on the 2nd ascent! And kudos to the team that filmed and edited... so incredible to see this send up close 👍🏻👍🏻

[@kavali6320]

E P I C ! So clean, so smooth and a nail-biting topout. 4:03 abundance of happiness :)

[@LukeRockCimber]

Well this is unexpected and exciting!!!!!!

[@CollinGill7]

it just kept going! thats a free solo

[@tregoode3842]

Impeccable song selection

[@steveilg6134]

Beyond Wor(l)ds…. Kudos to the 😎est kid ever! 🙏🏾💪🏾

[@in_moetion8569]

Long time no see, glad to see him back

[@2enjoihsu]

palms... instantly sweaty. well done sir.

[@c_healy]

That white shirt just glows! So sick.

[@dennislrobertson]

Good job, Shawn! 👍🏼

[@nitrostackr]

Bait and switch, sick send

[@Supwiyaman]

That was phat, phat back drop 🤟

[@ikkoichigo]

really good filmmaking!

[@jt_climbing]

sick edit

[@jakesreilly]

surprise drop, the best. made the climb look way to easy. and some of the best filming ive seen on this boulder/in general for climbing. editing was amazing. doesnt get much better thanks all

[@loganwassill7003]

That's a sick boulder

[@duuplo]

super impressive

[@julianheninger1174]

Perfection

[@artikaalpouchecot2377]

Le seul et l'unique Bien joué boss

[@sheeps8240]

dudes fingers are made of steel

[@santiagogc427]

this man is such an aesthetic in itself

[@chocolatetobi]

need a ten-hour version of "surely he's topping out now?"

[@macfilms9904]

Shawn climbing hard to Joy Division? Hell yeah!

[@lorenzodelsal7933]

this b&w is crazy.

[@davidw789]

Oh yeah gotta love it

[@kleiber1729]

You need to come back to Europe soon. There is a highball waiting there. It's called Excalibur. :)

[@bizc5678]

Bro that Joy Divison in the begining got me goosebumps

[@sandorgal7858]

Best video! Simpl(e)y the best

[@chadlyalan]

welcome to the team

[@phillipelapierre3821]

Wicked send!

[@sierragolf9000]

Probably shawn Is the strongest climber i ever seen, he is a spectacular machine of climbing

[@Connor_M.406]

i love Shawn Raboutou

[@alanzhan4436]

killin it

[@tathtath]

now thats a boulder!

[@jens1525]

epic for me like Shawn like the shaman of climbing

[@YuniorBarbanOficial]

Nice high ball❤

[@Alan-gi2ku]

He comes from good genetic stock.

[@c0c0XanMan]

that's a big rock

[@morganilrosso3323]

This thing is gonna age damn well

[@gallanonim6535]

With the B&W edit it already has. Who in 2024 realeases in monochrome? Most players have a feature to do it, unfortunately can't go the other way round. Weird choice.

[@Brian013100]

good ol shawn rabbitoe banger

[@christianj.correapagan9861]

Sick send from Shawn, but when are we getting the Sean Bailey FA?

[@visabean2595]

would've beeb so sick to see this in infa-red, harkonnen style

[@BoboBish]

So it's two insanely hard moves into a V12.

[@TheNickMartinez]

Yes

[@cjoy778]

I believe it goes as a V11 the way he topped it out

[@BoboBish]

That seems right. He does the direct which I thought was consensus V11. The original line is the V12 one, but that one turns left near the lip to use different holds. The description on the video is a little misleading. @@cjoy778

[@MrWill830]

No matter how good I get (and it is most likely never this good) I would still NEVER climb this thing lmao. Jeez, congrats to the man

[@toddhelgeson4301]

I remember watching Megos try this when he was also trying lucid. Stoked to see it finished. IMO, less impressive than the process. Stoked to see him finish that soon as well. no doubt he can.

[@CollinGill7]

i cant even imagine what being that strong is like