Black Savage: The Vacuum Leak Saga, Episode 2: The Fix

Using Fuel Trims To Diagnose Engine Problems: • BMW 330i 325i E46 Usin...
M54 Intake Manifold Removal/Reinstall:
• BMW 330i 325i E46 CCV ...
• BMW 330i 325i E46 CCV ...
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This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.

[@herrbrahms]

You know, I didn't have any evidence at the time, but when you reported only bank 1 lean in the first video, i immediately started thinking about what would affect only that bank. The two big possibilities that jumped out at me were either the oxygen sensors on that bank, or more likely, the intake manifold gaskets which split left and right. I think that whatever the cause of any residual leanness, that crinkled manifold gasket was probably the source of the disparity between banks 1 and 2. Ugh, multiple concurrent problems can be such a pain. I'm in the middle of pulling my manifold to do the CCV system with your very helpful video in tow, and I am doing freaking everything while I'm there. Hard coolant lines, heater hoses, preemptive starter, the buried sensors including crank angle, and every little piece of vacuum line I can find, even to the point of sucking vacuum on the canister leading to the exhaust flap to see whether it holds or needs to be capped off. Pulling the manifold is not fun, and my calculation is that a certain amount of throwing parts at the problem can be a good call, especially when the car is 20 years old and my plans are to keep it forever. Time also has a value. Just replace rubber shit that appears original to the car and don't look back.

[@vloniello]

I always appreciate the videos and effort...so helpful. I have a 325ci 330ci and M3 e46 and have been through much of repairs you cover. One area that I found which seems to leak vacuum is the sucking jet pump at the bottom of the manifold. On this car it has a snap connector but both of my non M cars it has a hose without a clamp. When pulling manifolds I put clamps because everytime the f connector or sucking jet is moved it can dislodge this bottom hose and cause a leak. I also had a cold start cylinder 4 misfire on the 325...ended up being bad manifold gasket at cylinder 4...as the engine heated the rubber expanded enough to seal and the misfire would cease. So the manifold gaskets do occasionally fail...this was at 119k. Just wanted to share my experiences. Thanks again for the dedication to e46s!

[@malimag99]

I had a similar problem with my 2005 X3, I address all the vacuum leaks thanks to your videos. I was ready to give up on the car, then I decided to replace the downstream o2 Sensor, when I got there i found the sensor loose, I tighten it and that solve the problem. Since you having the problem in both banks I would also check for an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold.

[@reggiesparks4357]

Thankyou.I too play mechanic in my space with an e39 & e46.your vids are top notch.I 've dealt with 171 174 a few times. That intake gasket is a very common thing.time after time getting hot and cooling off makes them shrink .the again.

[@wjohnsonism]

Great job. Congrats on passing the smog check and I love fuel trim videos. Cool stuff.

[@50sKid]

thanks, man!

[@boopunn]

I just spent 2 months chasing a similar problem with a new build on an m54. That venturi valve gets clogged in the small port often. This is used in Audi,VW and BMW. As a test I drilled out the small tub where the venturi action is and I no longer have the high 171 front bank only only, This was for testing while I wait for a new SJP to come in.

[@aor3200]

Hello I am happy that you found the problem. Maybe it is in same series with all other M54 problems, take manifold off, and replace all vac hoses + gaskets when you buy M54 engine car.. List is quite long, disa, vanos seals, waterpump+thermostat, vacuum hoses.. etc..

[@Andreiam008]

EH ,Hey Kid , hope all is well. I took my disa off and whew , the pin was still on the disa . Very good for me. Although I think my disa is no good . So I will watch you vids on disa and I will go from there. Thanks again for all your vids.

[@JeSuisBacon]

Keep it up Jason!

[@JMUDoc]

How to check for vacuum leaks on an M54 (if you haven't got a smoke machine): - remove the airbox and MAF and put a thick washing up glove over the end, making sure it's sealed tight (use the MAF's jubilee clamp), - disconnect the brake booster hose and blow into it, - listen for air escaping This is how I found a torn vacuum plug on the back of my manifold😉.

[@Andreiam008]

Ok , cool ,I will take it apart today and let you know . Thanks for your thoughts.

[@ronnieadams3402]

Side cutters work well too removing those clamps

[@VeeDubJohn]

I'm fighting the same battle, and suspecting soft fail fuel pump. Kind of sad when you have an M56 because unless you retro fit a standard plastic tank, you are out of luck. My heart sank when I realized the fuel pump isn't serviceable. I picked up some parts to make a fuel pressure tester as even that is a hassle on these cars. Haven't checked the pressure, but symptoms point to soft fail. Those little vac hoses on the back of you manifold run the secondary air injection system. I'm having trouble with that system as well and there isn't much information out there on the M56 SAP system. Good luck man.

[@fadidan84]

from 10:40 to 12:08 both upper graphs were showing the short term fuel trim for bank 1

[@toto29620]

I have been in a similar nightmare with my m52tub28, disa valve sela changed, throttle body seal changed, pcv changed, oil dipstick tube seal changed, check valve for break booster changed, intake boots changed, all vacum line changed and still a fucking lean code, rought idle and sometime no power at high rpm. Finally it was a intake manifold gasket and a maf sensor. Those cars.... Great to run but really made of plastic it's unbelievable.

[@gentoolive]

Went through the same nightmare with my 05 330ci. Changed everything, finally went away. Then the coolant problems started, all plastic.. Car was coming home twice a month on a wrecker, got sick of working on the same problems over and over and traded it off..

[@ipvelocity1873]

same here aswell lol, except I only had the 2 litre but again iv done a few jobs on my car and just shocked at the piss poor quality of the parts, specifically all the seals and all plastic components. Thinking of changing my e46 for a lexus is250 lol

[@gentoolive]

I went with a 14 Mustang GT. Having a blast, car is alot of fun.

[@ipvelocity1873]

Awesome! nothing like a V8

[@gnomebmw]

Ip Velocity Nothing like a BMW V8

[@adycooke5925]

Love the info you provide and has helped a lot. I have the the codes P0171 & P0174 code for a while now and replaced many things, but still comes on, but only on tick over. Do you think it could be the MAF sensor ? As thats one thing that i have not replaced.

[@hpygolkyone]

Kewl vid Jason. Hooray for passing your smog! I was going to suggest that you change the name from “Black Savage” to “Black Magic’! 😁

[@Andreiam008]

The video on KZbin is called , BMW 325i Rough idle popping sound.i put this in in case the link did not work . this is my exact issue . Thanks

[@PeteAU9]

Does your car have the exhaust flap? I found my 330i's flap actuator was leaking vacuum! Smoke would never find that.

[@projman2155]

Same thing is happening with me. So far I found out there’s something wrong with the maf connector which makes the fuel trim go super positive or negative when I touch it. Lose wirings or bad connectors also cause these weird fluctuations.

[@jamesmack3266]

Super interesting video, but did you ever figure out the problem?? I think for sure you had 2 problems, as you obviously had a vacuum leak, i assume that the work you did pulling the intake fixed that. The second problem seemed like an electrical problem with fuel delivery. It would be interesting to check the fuel pressures and or fuel pump current draw with the fans running and off. If they change, then there is an electrical problem, but finding it could be a challenge.

[@boopunn]

I also had to put a new end on my MAF wiring as it had a break in it. I soldered and sealed with the self sealing shrink tubing. Just some things to look for. These things can be annoying to find.

[@projman2155]

Yes, same thing is happening with me right now. I discovered it by accidentally tapping the maf connector plug and wire and the fuel trims returned to 0 at idle from +-20

[@allanwaye9124]

Also Bmw's need strong batteries especially up north. Otherwise lights, fuses and sensors all go haywire. (Skip the scrapyard on that one) In Canada a good battery runs about two hundred forty dollars. Probably three times the amount as what it would be in California. That's a general rule for all the bmw parts here.

[@tyronemaye4539]

bro i had issue with emissions too lol as result could not pass inspection. Come to find out upon having done a smoke test at shop in my area which specializes in BMW's an from said test had vacuum leaks in 3 places. they seemed to have took a razor an cut my air box tub which seats just behind the oil filter mount location, the disa valve and idle control valve where the small boot seats onto it there was pinched up against disa preventing a snug fit to tighten down the clamp. I also had to end up replacing the Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor too... and now after droppin my spouse off to work service engine light just came back on an shows 1 code being P1091 says "Manufacturer Control".....i am just going to get rid of this shit i'm tired of dumping money into it i put new coil packs radiator water pump sensors plugs various parts onto an entire used engine i bought with 63k miles original. I am bout to point of setting it on fire...

[@ashjain4702]

you're a beast. keep it up.

[@gerardosahagun1363]

Do you have a video how to take off intake manifold for a 2004 325ci m56 to change gasket

[@elijahhall4879]

do you have video on hooking vacuum line on back of intake????

[@george5022]

Love your videos so informative!

[@tomapple944]

Had the same problem I checked all possible leaks Changed all but still had the same problem, It was the maf

[@mahomed-husseinismail2776]

was ur MAF visibly Fxkd or was it just not working? im sturggling with this stuff too

[@tomapple944]

@@mahomed-husseinismail2776 no the maf was a year old but it was a no name cheap shit,

[@thehobe9]

I also had P0171 nd P0174 codes. Did DISA, CCV system, Fuel filter/pump, heated O2 sensors, plugs and coils...no luck. Changed out old MAF (Siemans) to cheap China copy and was able to get clear codes and smog cert. but after 200 miles, check engine light back on. Got a second MAF from Ebay (China) and it seems to be working OK now. Original Siemans MAF was giving LT fuel trims of 18.6, first replacement China MAF got the LT Fuel trims down to around 8 and the second MAF got the trims close to 0! The replacement parts were all done at 140K miles for long term maintenance anyway. I have had MAF sensors go bad on a BMW540i at 80K miles and now this one at 140K miles. The BMW MAF sensors are made with a single, very complex integrated circuit but the Chinese copies are made with a fairly simple discrete component circuit board. The Chinese BMW540i replacement functioned but performed TERRIBLY on dynamic motor testing, coughing and sputtering under accel and decel. The Chinese MAF actually worked quite well under dynamic conditions but did not return the correct fuel trims.

[@50sKid]

TheHobe yeah you can’t use the Chinese eBay MAF sensors. They’re made with a cheap resistor instead of the expensive platinum wire the oem ones use. The cheap ones do not read air mass correctly. You absolutely have to use the oem one for proper engine operation. I think another mistake you’re making is trying to lower your fuel trims by installing different, inaccurate MAFs, rather than believing that your original is actually telling you correct readings and working to solve the cause of the problem. Do your fuel trims go up or down at 3000rpm compared to what they are at idle? If they go up, you have a fuel delivery problem. If they go down, you have a vacuum leak somewhere and you need to find it.

[@thehobe9]

Thank you for your quick reply. I really like your videos. Keep up the good work!

[@robeaton2191]

@@50sKid What does it mean if the values hardly change at all with revs at 3000rpm?

[@yope01]

There are two possible causes to your symptoms, that come to mind: 1. The DISA. It actually has a check-valve for storing vacuum, so it can perfectly leak vacuum and you won't get any smoke from it. 2. Bad electrical ground connection. Specially when the fan comes on and a lot of current is drawn, a bad ground can produce ground lift. If either the oxygen sensor signal or the maf signal are lifted together with the ground, that could cause a false or real lean condition. Look at the post cat sensors to see which one it is.

[@allanwaye9124]

Mass air flow sensor was also disconnected while performing the test en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

[@HowToDoitright]

At 17.55 you have this vacuum line on the piece which is black and white. Where dies the other end of that vacuum line goes to?

[@h46ycl]

Wild guess. Could that be a stuck intermittent open EGR valve?

[@mortenbrinch3954]

Is it possible to change those hoses (video at 17:37) with intake manifold inplace (E46 - M54 engine) ?

[@patrickmcghee.]

Not sure why the brake booster line splits to the intake boot, never seen that before, just full vacuum from intake is fine, that is how I have mine setup and brakes work like normal? So a solid brake booster hose from intake works just fine.

[@emeoba69]

Wish Id have just changed out that break booster valve when I had my intake manifold off. The M54 valve hose has a hard ass left turn into the bowels of the manifold. Not this pop off thing you got on the bottom.....

[@sammycrack0dirt]

If the evap isn't working it's gonna throw a code and a check engine light. I keep resetting it but it keeps popping back up. For a drive cycle : drive 5 mins over 20mph and under 30mph then drive 15 mins over 50mph and under 60mph. Back it down to 20-30mph for another 5 min. That's BMW's drive cycle.

[@henrylj2660]

man I had no luck my hose was fine no leak only hint I have is from the pid with negative fuel trims and when I open the oil cap the hissing goes away. I'm gonna check my fuel filter tomorrow and do and an oil change maybe the whatever p1520 camshaft b actuator is stuck???? and hella misfires on on all cylinders! guess I'm gonna have to pull the intake tomorrow. I have the same issue holds pressure and when on there is a vacuum leak ,yshort trim says -9.0.

[@Addingtonb]

I took my car (M54B2.2) to have the oil filter housing gasket replaced where it joins with the block. After putting everything back together, oil started to drip a lot more on that area. Under normal circumstances, isn't it supposed to be just removing the old rubber and put on the new one and close, and all good, right? We got new rubbers twice with the same result. Even got new bolts, even rethreaded it and going to the extent of getting a replacement oil filter housing. It leaks less after that, but it doesn't make sense. Could it be the block side that needs to be schemed? Please help with some advice.

[@truthco-opdiana2307]

50sKid what is that connection you have your left hand on at 15:44? I too have a 2001 325 (mine's an xi, manual trans) that will not give up the same problems you've been (had been) having with your "Black Savage". Funny, because I was unaware of your "Saga" until recently, and had nicknamed my car the "Dark Star". I've done it all - all that you've done and then some (new Siemens MAF, new DISA, new vac lines anywhere and everywhere there is one all the way to the exhaust butterfly valve, new fuel injectors, even cleaned my valves, etc and blah blah belch...excuse me, now where was I...etc! LOL) and have come up with the same results as you, right down the line (those codes and fuel trims). I'm so overdue on my inspection for registration I now have to get a new license plate. Yet, I keep trying to find the answer. I plan to complete the job in this video (I am doing it this weekend). This is where my saga continues, and is my next step. In the event that this Sucking Jet Pump, etc causes as issue with that piece you have your hand on, do you know what the part number is? I cannot find it on RealOEM, or anywhere else for that matter. By the way, your other videos aside from this "Saga" have been invaluable to me, and a good friend of mine who also is an E46 DIY'er. I've been chasing my problem down for about 14 months now, and I really think that this could be the answer. But, just in case I need "that part at 15:44, do you know what it is? Thank you for all your efforts to share the knowledge! You are appreciated, and I feel your pain! :-)

[@50sKid]

Diana Hamilton it’s called the suction jet pump I believe. Check out realoem.com for part numbers and diagrams

[@truthco-opdiana2307]

@@50sKid Thank you, Mr Man. I did check that site out but I must have missed it somewhere in there! I'll take another look, and maybe I'll let you know how this saga goes for me! Haha! My goodness.

[@dimitriossarikoudis2862]

Diana Hamilton 5

[@eldin9117]

P0171 and 174 was driving me crazy , for a while , i thought it was a vacuum leak too , did carb cleaner , smoke tests , and at the end it was MAF sensor , put a new one in and codes never came back .

[@lolipop2004]

I have also been chasing those two codes for months now. I thought the maf has it's own code when it stops working?

[@eldin9117]

Yes it does , but a bad MAF thats not completely dead can cause those conditions ,because its confusing engine computer , try cleaning maf first and see how it goes , if not get a new one make sure its oem brand SIEMENS , DO NOT buy china maf it won't work , ask he how i know . lol, or get a used oem from eBay for like 30. 40 bucks . In my case new or good used maf fixed those codes ,been over a year and they haven't come back .

[@robertliehr4366]

@eldin was your check engine light on all the time or intermittent? Mine comes and goes with P0171/4, tried many different things so far, but not yet the MAF.

[@eldin9117]

@@robertliehr4366 yeah I had check engine light on and off .. just replace a MAF sensor or try cleaning it .. or get a used one from eBay and if it fixes your problem I would buy new oem MAF only and be done with it .

[@robertliehr4366]

@@eldin9117 Thanks, will do!

[@dansmith9421]

This video presents a good opportunity for me to ask a question I've always had: How many people feel safe running the engine in the garage with the garage door open? Do you run a fan blowing out the big door? My garage is tandem, which means one of my bays is double depth. That's the bay where I do all of my work, but it means that if I run the car in the garage, the tailpipe is right in the middle of the garage (maybe 15' from the big open door). I also have a person door at the far end of the garage and could open that, possibly with a fan to blow out the big door (i.e. away from me if I'm working on the gar nosed into the far bay). Right now when I work on it and need the engine running, I move everything all the way out to the driveway, which is a giant pain. Am I being silly?

[@50sKid]

I would put an expanding hose -- like the kind used for RV black water that you can get at walmart -- from the tail pipe to the outside so that you are safe.

[@TheCowgirlNiamh]

Well done passing smog Jason! I'm curious, that small black and white valve on the intake, can they go bad? I noticed mine was upside down compared to any other M43 I've seen! My E46 runs perfectly though! I have turned it the way it should be and she runs like poop!!! I got one from a junk yard to check but I haven't tested yet. If it ain't broke, don't fix it right? It's bugging me though haha

[@50sKid]

Yeah it's possible they can go bad--it's just a one way check valve so there will be either a rubber diaphragm or a little plastic ball inside that will shut off air flow one way and let it through from the other. You can test it by taking it out and trying to blow through it from both sides--if you can't blow through from one side then you know you're good. Air should be able to to be sucked TOWARD the intake manifold side, because the intake manifold is a big vacuum cleaner, right? So it needs to suck air into it (aka create a vacuum).

[@TheCowgirlNiamh]

Thanks for that Jason! I'll compare mine with the junkyard one and see ;)

[@ShyDaMan]

Mine was leaking from the bottom of that piece and from the top.... and also from the plugged piece behind that... my plug was cracked almost in half.... the piece he is working on , mine seemed like it was worked on before... the permanent clamps were gone the bottom part didn't have a clamp anymore and the top hose was frayed right at the connection and wasn't a clean cut.... I would not have been able to find these leaks with out doing a smoke test....

[@trein116]

I'm having the same problem i'f done so many things! Vanos seals and anti ratle I have installed a catch can system (not direct on the head) Pulled the intake 2 times double checked Smoked it Done a fuel press test Read the dme out My only hope is the maf But i dont know I hope that you can solve the problem kid And i hope that your problem can solve mine too!

[@TheDocumentaryDude]

Did the maf end up sorting the issue?

[@thamotoweasel6269]

iam having a p0171 and p0174 iam wondering how is the m54 ccv system different from the m56 system because i have the m56

[@BOUZOUKI_PETE]

the problem is the key, throw it away, that way you won’t ever have to start it again...😊

[@richardmartin6533]

I am so confused.. I have the M-52, vacuum leak, replaced the 3 major lines and ccv, gaskets are good, now I have oil coming out of bank 1 sensor, both banks have error codes, and when I apply brakes the engine idle surges over 1k on the tach.. any ideas??

[@harrykourm2462]

Richard Martin sounds like something wrong with ccv, oil overflowing/not returning

[@timbo9880]

Hi 50sKid, hi other guys... Maybe some of you can bend my mind into the right direction: got a e46 here with the m54b22 engine, in idle i have stft around -5%, ltft around 15%. with 2500 rpm stft around 0%, ltft still 15% of course. code p0171/0174, EML lights up. already removed the small intakebridge with the connectors of the ccv, plugged the 6 holes. so leaks on valvecover,dipstick, oilcap or ccv are not influencing anything now.. renewed the 3 rubberplugs near the firewall. removed DISA and plugged the hole (so DISA can´t be a leak). renewed the 2 manifold-hoses and testet MAF-sensor. smoketest shows no leaks. disconnected hose to brakebooster (so the booster can´t be a problem) and closed it. still no change in stft/ltft :-( anybody any more possible leak-sources? throttlebody? idle-regulator? anything else that enters intake manifold? Would be really grateful for any ideas.... :-(

[@trein116]

Can you please make a video when found more of the prblem

[@alfrednavarro2391]

Did you ever resolve the lean codes? I have the same issue; I did the smoke test, nothing. Car runs great when I clear the codes, when the check engine light appears the engine hesitates. Kind of feels like the engine is hickuping while driving. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[@tangleass]

Did you ever figure this out? Mine is doing the same thing, it runs good for a little bit when I clear the codes

[@alfrednavarro2391]

It turned out to be my Mass Airflow sensor. I bought a new one from 1A Auto, and it wasn't an OEM or recommended alternate part, i.e., VDO, Bremi, or Siemens. I found my old one, Siemens, I cleaned it with some MAF cleaner and plugged it in. I cleared the codes, and they haven't returned. In fact, I was able to pass my smog test. I noticed an increase in miles per gallon; where I was getting about 19 MPG city/highway combined, I'm now getting 22-24 MPG and 29 MPG on the highway. I am so relieved; I came so close to tearing into it and removing the intake manifold again. @@tangleass

[@allanwaye9124]

Shouldn't the mass 'air flow' sensor be on or hook up before checking your fuel trim. Also it might be idea to allow the car to warm up completely. Beyond that if nothing leaks than nothing leaks. Gas cap ring might also be a problem. I'd put it all back together first before checking anything...lol...! (poor battery equals poor electrical with a question mark) Various hose's to the manifold and air pressure, oil pressure, coolant pressure. All working together to create better fuel milage. Bottom Line if nothing leaks than nothing leaks don't over think the problem with 'vacuum leaks'.... Good Videos and Thanks Purpose of the mass air flow sensor. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor (Your warning lights were also on related to MAP issues at 12:00 minutes into the video 'Temp gauge is fine' yellow light underneath MAP related) Engine control unit (ECU) would not be interpreting the air flow and fuel correctly without the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAP) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_control_unit

[@FishFind3000]

You don’t wanna spray crab and brakekleen on plastic it can destroy it also rubber too

[@aspectcarl]

The cooling fan is a large electrical load which will affect idle speed, so dme will alter air and fuel to balance idle speed

[@XPbIM3]

That's a clue remark! That particular engine have a separate idle valve. All the symptoms are stronger when engine on idle, and under heavy electrical load you have even stronger leak sights so that means to take a closer look on idle air channels and air system is a good idea. UPD: And a clogged/oiled MAF sensor does most of error measuring small amounts of air. Checking maf sensor for oil contamination is a good idea also.

[@dj-konvickmatrixxsupreme1286]

That car has a demon

[@Andreiam008]

Hey Kid. I watched your disa video . You mentioned that this disa was the wrong disa for your 330i , the disa was for a 325. Can I purchase this 325 disa from you if you still have it , mine has lost its vacume .

[@50sKid]

It has long since been sold, my friend.

[@thalarctos1900]

I have been chasing a cold start issue for a month. Changed plugs, MAF, O2 sensors, fuel pump, one-way valve from fuel pump, smoke tested, etc. Once the car warms up, it runs great, but go to restart and it, and pla-pla-pla-pla-pla. I'm getting code P0172 and P0175 which are rich codes, and my cheap Craftsman scanner indicates a -28 short-term trim, and 0 long-term trim. Yikes; anyway, this is a 2004 325xi with 183,000. Any ideas will be considered. I have not popped the manifold by the way.

[@riccardodefina9551]

Found any solutions?

[@thalarctos1900]

@@riccardodefina9551 Yes, I put in a good top-end cleaner, and it must have cleaned out some carbon on the headgasket. The headgasket had failed but was hard to diagnose until I used the cleaner. Anyway, the head ended up being warped and unrepairabe. Win some lose some. 🤣

[@riccardodefina9551]

@@thalarctos1900 a pity, hope you got a new engine, when you start having problems with bmw's you never end

[@hapciu3d123]

Hello, I have a question about shifting gears on e46 m43 ,I have problems shifting gears ,in March I paid a mechanic to chance mai cluch disc and since then i have problems with shifting gears and if you can tell me what can be the problem or cause and what to look for. Thank a lot. Sorry for the mistake.

[@harrykourm2462]

Stefan Popescu can you shift at all, does the shifter go into the gears. sounds like shift forks/ bushings, or tranny fluid.

[@hapciu3d123]

I have changed the fluid . the bushing is bad my shifter is pretty loss .when I start the car in the morning I can't put in 1 gear and I put in 2 or 3 gear and then I can put in first gear. It is feels like a something is blokes my shifter and in the rear is sounds like a clack noise when i shift.

[@hapciu3d123]

Bleed clutch can be the problem maybe?

[@conradb7200]

If those gaskets last too long without trouble ... not good for the manufacturers' profit line. So of course they must start using "new and improved" gaskets ... to IMPROVE the manufacturers profits on gasket repairs. I believe it is called "planned obsolescence"!

[@kevinlin7148]

Another good video. Any major difference in the procedure for removing M56 intake manifold vs M54?

[@50sKid]

Nope, same same

[@wimmobile4601]

How about the vacuum line that runs onto the fuel filter?

[@drewdavid9672]

Smoke testing gets that one. I just found mine that way

[@imfuctifino]

His intake doesn't have the feed to one. Think they call it the f connector.. Mine was perished.. I did find the bung in the back of the manifold had perished and this made a massive difference although I'm still running 8% LT. Fuel pressure next

[@mkglebe69]

I've been having P0171 and P0174 ever since I replaced the CCV on my 2001 E46. Please provide an update if you figure out the solution. I saw one person in the comments mentioned that a new MAF fixed the problem. Could you try that and maybe provide an update if that works.

[@50sKid]

You should basically retrace the steps you did on the CCV job because you almost certainly left something loose to where a vacuum leak is occurring. On the M54 with the CCV you have all sorts of ways into the intake manifold. Watch my old videos about the common vacuum leaks as well because I could also be a different component than the CCV system. But it is still a vacuum leak. Almost always is with a 171/174

[@harrykourm2462]

Or disa vavle

[@Anthonymayn]

50sKid I have the same code P0174 and I'm leaving a sh*t ton of oil on my driveway. I'm mostly certain it's my ccv but can't go to a shop till I'm certain. You think it's the culprit? Please get back to me OP or 50sKid

[@bkktony]

Anthony Mayn more likely the oil filter housing gasket

[@jenny3000ful]

Hi am having an issue with my bmw e46 2004 the center vent is on the three blue dots and is blowing warm to hot air even when the ac is off. It gets hotter when turn to the red position please help thanks

[@50sKid]

Is your air compressor spinning when the a/c is on?

[@jenny3000ful]

kinda figure it out was pulling the warm air from the engine think my ac need topping up the low side is 40 and the high side is 200 is this correct because the left side is blowing cold and the right side is not so cold please advice thanks

[@50sKid]

Kris Chan Tack your pressures seem fine. If you have cold air on only one side, you have a problem with a blend door motor under the dash

[@WV591]

My P0171 on sentra 2005 is driving me insane. nothing works after 3 months of troubleshooting,

[@fde4683]

Now you should reset adaptations and see how she runs. Use inpa reset everything and reset throttle adaptations using the key.

[@50sKid]

I had reset adaptations during the process of making this video but just didn't catch it on camera. That's not going to change anything about the way the car runs, though.

[@fde4683]

50sKid It does, because when u have lean codes car slowly adapts to it giving more fuel I know that for sure because my turbo car learns the fuel mixture over time using 1 precat sensor but once u reset adaptations it deletes what it has learned and runs stock Ecu maps

[@Andy242455]

cooles Shirt

[@stewfly9227]

2024 and still very relevant. screw the smog test, that shiz is holding me back from living my life. i have 171 and 174 vaccuum leak and the catalyst below threshold codes and at this point the government has turned me outlaw.

[@henrylj2660]

damn my hose looks different I have an m52tu i guess.

[@mustangj0hn]

Jeez! why do they have to be so freakin complicated?

[@ihnhorra2008]

Germans ....