Blacksmithing For Beginners - Classic Candle Cup

[@DireWolfForge]

Thanks for another great video! The tip about using a v block for tapering down pipe was brilliant. I’ve always struggled with using a round swage block and this was the key. We appreciate all you do, brother.

[@Bobsutubes]

very nice candlestick and interesting process . Thanks...

[@randallsummers6551]

Nice job.

[@jeffsandling5981]

Hi Dennis, Great video! Been wanting to start trying some candle holders, this was very helpful. I've learned quite a bit from your videos! Only been at it for a few months, still struggling a little with forge welding consistently. This project will be some good practice for this weekend. Thanks for all the effort you've put in sharing this craft!

[@ChristCenteredIronworks]

great job Dennis!

[@HornadyMatt]

I like the simplicity.

[@jalanham1]

Fantastic! Ive wondered for a while how to make a candle cup on a stem the traditional way.

[@marcsenteney3160]

Very nice!

[@nospeech8907]

Спасибо Вам за интересный ролик.

[@edgarderschmied4497]

Nice work!

[@beammeupscotty1955]

Hi Dennis. I was just wondering if there is a reason you don't just modify the tang/shank of that V-hardy to fit your anvil's hardy hole? Otherwise, I must say it never occurred to me to forge weld the candle cup on the end of a piece of rod. I think for some looks it is a great idea. My own normal method is to forge a tenon and then oxy weld it on from the inside of the cup. The gives you an entirely different look however. I can even see a way someone might use this method to forge a Cala Lily flower from pipe and forge weld the blossom on like this candle cup. Good idea.

[@df-intheshop330]

I use my hardy tools and stake anvils etc at the anvil primarily because it make filming the videos much easier. Normally when I'm doing a job I will have them set up in vises or portable workstations around the shop. That way I can leave them set up and I'm not switching tools out all the time. That V block has a wide flat shank that makes it perfect for clamping in a vise so making it fit the hardy hole would be ruining the tool for the way I normally use it. In the Stake Anvil Stand videos I developed the system that I am currently using to set up any number of portable workstations that allow me to move from one to another without wasting a lot of time swapping tools.

[@plusdier]

Thank you for this video Could we have a small video on the recall of the welding to the fire I think that many people would be interested thank you Didier (France)

[@df-intheshop330]

I'll be updating these soon but here are my old videos on forge welding. Forge welding 1 kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKrNnJWEZc2KiLs Forge welding 2 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYrbq5RsrbuJask

[@manobrass]

Thanks for another great video. I'm curious. The hacksaw slits clearly work like a charm. What problems would you run into if you didn't cut them?

[@df-intheshop330]

If you don't split open the end and create areas where the steel can go you will need to deal with all that extra material when you are trying to weld the cup to the stem. The only way to do that effectively is to set the weld in a swage ( ideally a top and bottom swage that fits the finished diameter perfectly ). Splitting the pipe allows you to weld each flap individually without having to worry about the end of the pipe distorting and pulling apart a weld in another area.

[@manobrass]

That makes perfect sense. Thanks!

[@oxbowfarm5803]

For forge welding purposes can I assume that any black iron pipe is essentially the same type of mild steel as normal bar stock?

[@df-intheshop330]

That's right - So is galvanized but burning the zinc coating produces toxic fumes