Bleed Brake Master Cylinder While On Car WITHOUT Bench Bleeding Done Alone-No Partner!

So I was flushing the brakes after changing my pads and rotors. I figured it was time for new brake fluid. But I screwed up! On the last brake I was flushing, I forgot to keep the master brake cylinder reservoir topped off! In fact, I let the brake master cylinder run dry which meant I introduced air into the brake master cylinder. This traditionally would require uninstalling the brake master cylinder, connecting hoses to its bottom drain port lines and running those to the reservoir with the master brake cylinder clamped in a vice and then pumping in the piston with a screw driver to cause the brake fluid to move out of the brake master cylinder and into the reservoir which would flush out all air bubbles over time - this process being called a bench bleed to remove the air from the master cylinder. However, after extensive research, I discovered a little known method for bleeding the brake master cylinder while it is still on car and better yet, without having to remove ANY brake lines or hoses! You don't even need a brake master cylinder bleeder kit! All you need is 10ft of vinyl hose! You simply connect the hose up to the front left caliper bleeder nipple and then run the hose into the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir. Then you top off the reservoir and tape the hose in place if needed to ensure it doesn't come out. Now, you pump your brakes while making sure to keep the brake master cylinder reservoir topped off with fluid so you don't introduce more air into the system. Then, after pumping the brakes (never pumping the brake petal all the way to the ground but only 2/3rd of the way tops else you risk breaking the master cylinder - or so I read) you eventually see all of the air gone from your clear vinyl hose and just see fluid running through! Then you know you have successfully removed all air from the master cylinder. Well you need to keep going even after that just about 50 or so more pumps. The more pumps the better as you are enabling the master cylinder trapped air pockets to bubble and work their way out of the master cylinder over repeated patting of the brake petal over time. After this process is done, flush all the brakes at each of the 3 remaining wheels beginning with the rear right wheel, then the rear left wheel, then the front right wheel. You can do this with any brake bleeding method - gravity, partner, vacuum pump, pressure bleeding, etc. Once all brakes are fully bled, you should be back in business! My car brakes were PERFECT after this process. Also, as a side note, when flushing the fluid in the first step from the caliper and back into the reservoir, I put a coffee strainer on the end of the hose to ensure no particles got into the reservoir. Also, the fluid I was cycling back into the reservoir was new fluid as I had already flushed all my lines with new fluid 2 days prior. So the fluid was very clean still.
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[@artbyrobot1]

If this video helped you, please subscribe so I can keep putting out quality content like this!

[@leroypollard6550]

I am sorry but would it not be more simple to remove your tires remove your brake pads use a c-clamp to compress your brake calipers therefore the system remains closed ,and any air that may have been in the system is expelled . replace your pads,replace your calipers your tires and lugs,check your fluid level.and reservoir cap for tightness pump your breaks until tight. your done.by using a c-clamp to compress the calipers. no need to bleed.same applies to flushing the system , i am sure you will figure it out from here.have a nice day and don't work so hard.

[@ToolinAround]

artbyrobot quick bleeder screws will save you a majot headache. You open the bleeder and pump the brakes until the air is out. They have a built in check valve and won't allow air to come back into the line

[@artbyrobot1]

@leroy Okay this suggestion is absolutely genius and I would have never thought of it in a million years. My solution was outside the box but this solution is WAY outside the box and would work amazingly. I'm very impressed!

[@artbyrobot1]

what the hell that is incredible! I didn't know that exists! Amazing suggestion man!

[@BC-ls4tp]

Seems to be extra work.. all the extra fluid to make it from caliper to reservoir.. a simple bleeder kit does the same thing with less fluid, just dump the fluid from kit to reservoir

[@Graadich]

"Man I hope this doesn't work, I don't wanna rob myself of the chance to do my first bench bleed," said no one ever lol, gj man

[@ex8280]

I did me brakes, and rotor, and had an issue with my banjo bolt leaking, I was so frustrated, I just let all the fluid out without pinching the line figuring i need to flush my brake fluid anyways. Fortunately I found this video, and it's now been two years and my brakes still work with no issue. One thing to be aware of, if you are doing this, have a few big bootles of brake fluid. I used up over 2 bottles because I didn't know what I was doing. You can always return them if it's not open.

[@johnpaulgarrett1]

The reason why your brakes were still squishy after you bled the master cylinder is because earlier in the day when you were bleeding the last brake and accidentally ran out of fluid in the reservoir you introduced air into BOTH the master cylinder and into the rear wheel's brake line. Therefore you needed to bleed air out of BOTH the master cylinder and the brake line leading to the rear wheel. You could have remedied this problem by running a long hose from the rear brake to the master cylinder to bleed both the rear brake line and the master cylinder at the same time. If you didn't have a long enough tube to reach from rear of car to master cylinder you could take a short tube and attach it to rear brake bleeder and run it UP into a liquid filled container higher than the brake bleeder. Put the tube end into the liquid in this container. Most people put this container BELOW the bleeder height sometimes requiring around 40 stabs of the brake pedal to eliminate air bubbles. If you put the container ABOVE the bleeder height you will find that it takes 1-5 pumps to bleed the line completely. Please note that this second method will bleed the brake line only. Make sure you bleed the master cylinder by running the tube from either one of your front wheels to the master cylinder reservoir.-MARYLAND MOBILE MECHANIC-Johnpaul.

[@jbbolts]

how about if you just keep the master cylinder topped up and catch the fluid ina reservoir out of a bleeder and just keep bleeding that way? wouldn't the master be rid of air eventually?.. unless im missing something?

[@miloo318]

How is the air actually leaving the MC with this method?

[@linkd9553]

im gonna need alotta tube

[@j-deezy321]

@@jbbolts exactly 😂

[@j-deezy321]

@@miloo318 it aint

[@markcrawford8876]

It is possible to draw air from loosened bleeder at caliper, put heavy bearing grease around threads at caliper bleeder, prob solved!

[@wildcatwildcat7944]

Thanks for taking the time to film and post this. Theoretically I think that you were actually still only bleeding the front left line and in the process getting the air that you may have introduced into the master. The main thing that you accomplished with that loop was to recycle the fluid so that you didn't have to keep refilling or buying more fluid. For anyone that is thinking of doing this, you should make sure to flush all your lines first to get all the old fluid out so that you don't recycle the old fluid back into the master. The coffee filter was definitely a good thing to catch any debris. As you found that once you got that large quantity of air out, the was still air in the other lines and you still needed go back and re-bleed at each wheel, starting with the farthest from the master (back right). The other potential issue is that the air in the "closed loop" line was getting fed back into the master, so if it was a true closed loop the air wouldn't actually escape, so you need to make sure that the looped line is positioned in the master in such a way that the air can escape and doesn't get trapped, thus defeating the purpose. In theory, you could actually create that closed loop at each wheel and bleed the whole system that way, however again I stress that you should probably flush the old fluid first and definitely use a filter.

[@miloo318]

I watched the entire video... You are aware he was flushing his brake system beforehand and was on the drivers side "the last wheel" when he ran the cylinder dry, right? That would mean the system has all new fluid right? And wasnt the large quantity of air nothing more than air that is in the hose when you buy it off the shelf? What is the "closed loop" you are referring too...The hose he bought or something in the brake line system?

[@j-deezy321]

No need to recycle that old garbage fluid

[@dntlss]

@@j-deezy321thats not the recycling hes talking about ,lol

[@kellykeys6092]

This method is more effective if you partially or fully fill the vinyl tube with fresh brake fluid first and make sure the tube is raised so that any air will rise away from the nipple. Otherwise, as you let off the brake peddle, air can be sucked back into the brake caliper. Just thought I'd mention that. . .

[@jackwade793]

If you pump the brakes and watch the air going back into the master cylinder. You are correct. When you let off the pedal. All that air can be sucked back into the master cylinder. However…….if you pump the fluid and watch the air go into the master cylinder. You hold the pad Al down for about 5-10 seconds. This will allow time for the air to rise to the top of the master cylinder and pop the bubble. I have bench bled the master cylinder only…..on the car by itself. On an older car, with the ability to see what was going on. I could see down to the bottom of the reservoir. The air bubbles need time to rise and pop. Letting off the pedal too soon doesn’t allow for that. Also…….the fluid should be crystal clear if you can see it. When it is not. It means you have allowed moisture or old fluid or solvent contaminants into the system. When I cleaned my whole system. I flushed it out with brake clean and then compressed air to get rid on it. I forgot to compresses out the master cylinder. When the new fluid was put in. It contaminated with the solvent. I took apart the master cylinder and rebuilt it. Fluid has to be transparent

[@tylerpripps4969]

I like your picture-in-picture video method. Great video!

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

I never do bleed the master cylinder before mounting it on the vehicle. You can do it that way but it's a waste of time IMO. Really only have to attach line fittings loosely then fill the reservoir and wait a minute or two till fluid begins dripping from the lose fittings, then tighten them. Not so difficult.

[@joserivas2992]

that's100% smarter way!!

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

@@joserivas2992 I call this "gravity bleeding". It also works for wheel cylinders and calipers in most cases. I forgot to mention, you must leave off the reservoir cap while bleeding, else the brake fluid can't flow downhill through the tubing by the weight of the fluid.

[@andyking2582]

Why can't you just run a hose from the caliper to the brake fluid on the ground isn't that the same as running it to the master cylinder as long as the master cylinder doesn't run dry

[@SEEKERONE1]

Hell yes after about 4 hours to remove brake booster then doing it again to put on a new master cylinder. I dreaded the thought of having to go through all of that pain and Agony to take the master cylinder off to bench bleed it. You saved me many hand cuts and taking my firearm and shooting my Mazda CX9. I will not pay hundreds of dollars for something I can do. It worked thanks a million. I went a step further and bleed all wheels using this method.😉😉😉😉

[@artbyrobot1]

yes the consensus from the comments was to bleed all wheels with this method and I agree with it. Glad this video helped you!

[@Gh0stFuz10n303]

@Mike Hey do you remember if you jacked up the car for the master cylinder is leveled first

[@davekoser3938]

Thank you so much for this! I was a mess last night when I couldn’t get a firm pedal and tripped ABS light after replacing my calipers. Then I watched this and it worked like a charm.

[@alward9901]

Hi this is very helpful , sometimes I have had air reintroduced from the threads of old or sloppy bleeder screw , in a quick fix till getting a new bleeder screw some mechanics put grease round the screw threads to stop the air getting sucked in when bleeding .

[@STEVO-hn5su]

Great video... I had the exact same problem and searched for a solution. Most suggestions were to remove the master cylinder to resolve the trapped air issue. ABSOLUTE NONSENSE and obviously the dealerships want you to believe this so you won't try it yourself. This man had the right idea with bleeding the MC from the nearest hub, but an even easier option, rather than looping back to the reservoir, is to just let the fluid run into a bottle like you would normally do when bleeding and continually top up the MC. A couple of depressions of the brake pedal and gravity will do the rest for you. You might need to bleed the other brakes in the normal order to make sure all air is expelled but this method most DEFINITELY WORKS!

[@dntlss]

Heck there are people out there that install master cylinders dry and just get the air out by bleeding the wheels and it works fine,might take a little longer.

[@CashApp-HelpMeStayAlive]

Man thank you !!!! I did this and the brakes are fixed. I appreciate it. Went to LOWES and got the 5/16 size hose . Same as yours in video . Did it in 10 minutes and all is good. First time ever doing any type of bleeding brakes. It works.

[@glassjoebiden5833]

I'll be doing it today lol

[@glassjoebiden5833]

Question. So it'll bring all the air out the lines and master just from doing one caliper front driver side?

[@miloo318]

Tell us how you did it? What brake line did you use... drivers side front?

[@miloo318]

@@glassjoebiden5833 Did you get it figured out? I am in this same predicament at the moment.

[@enochmcneely7902]

I'm doing this tomorrow. Can any of you expand? do I need to do all the calipers or just the front driver's side? Did it work for you?

[@castersen13]

5/16 OD 3/16 ID size vinyl. Awesome video I love good research from DIY guys.

[@michaelmclernon4929]

Kudos ! A clever workaround to removing master cylinder. Just a thought, if there is access you can do a so-called bench bleed on the car, using the same bench bleed tubes as you would on your workbench, or do it by loosening the tubing connections to the M/C with the help of an assistant on the pedal, and lots of rags wrapped around the fitting, but being careful to not release the pedal until the fitting is closed. Of course you would do each half of the M/C separately. 4 or 5 strokes ought to do it.Also you are the first I have seen on KZbin that shows any concern for introducing debris into the M/C.The coffee filter is ingenious, I will start using one.I'm surprised at how many KZbin videos start out with removing a protective screen, which invariably does not get replaced until they are all done.Nice Job Art.

[@miloo318]

Mike, I did the same damn thing, I got distracted and missed refilling my brake reservoir causing it to run empty while pumping brakes. I have a spongy brake pedal now, which I didnt have beforehand. Can I use your method to get the air out of the brake cylinder, with the cylinder remaining on the car (Jeep Wrangler)? Im not sure this will resolve my issue bc I do have ABS and im reading something about having to bleed that too! Plus, I have since learned pushing the pedal all the way to the floor can and will damage the piston seal. I did this many times in an attempt to get all air out of the system on my brake flush.

[@slybunda]

this is just a standard brake bleed but using the hose from the caliper to perform an auto topup of the master cylinder.

[@artbyrobot1]

sort of but also the difference is moving 5 gallons or more of fluid through and using small pumps to aerate the fluid and get rid of the trapped air in the cylinder by churning up the air bubbles into the fluid. It is many many small taps on the brakes that work out all of that air. You have to recycle the fluid in this way unless you want to use 5+ gallons of brake fluid at $5/16oz

[@peepiepo]

@@artbyrobot1 I've suffered the same fate as you and accidentally let it drop and get air in. I've got through two litres of brake fluid and then started to re use it but I have to keep moving from collection bottle to the reservoir by hand. It's taking forever. I wish I had some tubing like this handy. One extra problem I've realised is that air is getting in through the threads of the bleed nipple

[@artbyrobot1]

@@peepiepo silicone grease thick around all the threads will fix that issue

[@MrHarey31]

Legend! Thanks so much, you saved me! I made the same mistake and let the reservoir get too low when flushing my brake fluid. This method works brilliantly and so quick. Cost me $5 for some nylon tube. I really thought I was going to have to get it towed to a mechanic to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it. Thanks again

[@artbyrobot1]

even if it did have to be bench bled, that is very DIY-able. I am DONE with mechanics. Finding an honest or at least low charging mechanic is like finding a unicorn. I had one once but he got too old and slow at getting cars back to me. Had to wait 6 months to get my car back from him once LOL.

[@miloo318]

Please tell me how you did it :)

[@dntlss]

@@miloo318i think thats what the video is for,lol

[@vaderandbailey]

"We did it!" is correct. It worked. Thanks Dude!

[@BirdogEd]

“Thumbs up” for the coffee filter trick! 😎🇩🇪🚙

[@ofilippov]

I messed up the brakes in my '12 BMW 650i exactly the same way you did. Got it fixed following your method. Brakes operate like new now - Thank You!

[@artbyrobot1]

Awesome, glad the video helped!

[@miloo318]

Can you tell me what brake caliper you bleed from that fixed your problem?

[@ofilippov]

@@miloo318 Front, Left. The one closest to the reservoir.

[@joegasparro2395]

Why don't you just pop the brake lines off the master cylinder, then connect the tubing to the master cylinder where the brake lines are and run them back into the resovoir. You are essentially bench bleeding, but just using the vehicle as the bench...why wouldn't that work?? not an expert, new at learning this stuff...

[@ninobustos8410]

9:55 that moment of excitement......I felt that! Thank you for this. Socks and flops though. Lol.

[@ralphsch4447]

Sorry your statement this is a closed system in not correct, air will leak around the bleed screw thread, that thread is not a sealing thread, it may work but dont bet on it working all the time,

[@artbyrobot1]

you are supposed to silicone grease those threads to make it air tight

[@Oblithian]

This method is only helpful if you can get the master cylinder itself level. Otherwise air will likely still be trapped. Alternatively you may be able to get away with the mc tilted forward (down) slightly.

[@Oblithian]

A picture to help see. rs45.pbsrc.com/albums/f63/3454545/Illustrative%20Pictures/Brakes/Master%20Cylinder%20Bleeding.gif?w=480&h=480&fit=clip

[@peepiepo]

Thank you for making that point. Remarkably I've searched online and asked on reddit and no one ever mentioned that. Could be why I'm having so much trouble.

[@dowtingtomas.695]

@@Oblithian nice link arsehole

[@dee6816]

hi, you mentioned you found several sources during your research doing same method. Plze share those sources. Thx

[@truthsocrypto612]

Couldn't figure out why my calipers weren't releasing and my pads just stuck to rotor- this was the solution. Thanks for the vid and safe traveling!

[@kellywatson3473]

Have 93 Honda Accord brake calipers locking up Wonder if I have to do the same thing to get them to release

[@knottreel]

There must be a reason why people bench bleed first. How does this method remove the trapped air? I don't see how this method is any different from just topping off your master cylinder from the bottle, as you bleed from the wheel cylinders. Judging from the comments, it must work. I just want to understand how it gets rid of the trapped air when the normal way doesn't.

[@alongjunor7729]

working on my car is my way to relax my mind from the outside world..and while working or troubleshooting the car, stumble upon a new and much easy technique to do that particular job is really satisfying.. isn't it?😄

[@artbyrobot1]

true

[@computerguy3812]

Just so everybody knows.. You can get the 516 hoes at Lowes. :)

[@scott8975]

Thanks! Saved my butt as far as I can tell on a Subaru Forester. I messed up on the first bleed I tried instead of the last like you. I think it was good that I started on the front left.

[@Zanbor59]

Man your method is the BEST... imagine bleeding the MC and each wheel in 4 minutes .... no more air bubbles in the brake system at all... total time bleeding 4 wheels 20 minutes including smoking cigarette and drinking Pepsi .... i can't believe i am done in that short time and having excellent result... perfect brack... i wasted my money buying vacuum shitty tool. again Thank you.

[@andyzaluski]

Thank you for posting this one. My pedal was hitting the floor after changing a front caliper line. I purchased an aquarium pump tube and also used the coffee filter. 2007 Tacoma.

[@miloo318]

Can you share the details of your experience please?

[@0ddba1l]

Just started to watch this and I would say straight off you tend to get air bubbles suspended in the fluid at the bleed nipple and these may take a long time to get out if you pump them back in.

[@xx3astmanxx928]

I'm really hoping this works for me too, as when I replaced the wheel studs on my century I took off the wrong bolts on the caliper, along with loosening the bleeder, both of which were unnecessary. That model of Buick has two other bolts that hold on the bracket that attaches the brake system to the rotor and I went in all gung ho thinking I knew what I was getting myself into 😂...I lost quite a bit of fluid but not so much that I depleted the reservoir, so I'm going to try this method when my brother gets back from the store

[@3Q2HFNILQHF]

Did it work?

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

@ 32:45 Hell, as long as your parking, - E-brake works ... yeah, you can drive it like that too. Bottom line, you can stop. I'm not sure if you mentioned if you put new brake pads all the way around and inspected the rotors and calipers. You were very anal about bleeding the whole system ( you sound like me) but sometimes we overlook certain key factors. I know it's been 5 years, but it would be interesting to know how the system reacted since this procedure. A thorough job nonetheless, and barely any fluid on the DRIVEWAY. THAT, my friend, is a PLUS. Hope to hear back from you soon. IMO we learn more from the comment section sometimes. PEACE

[@slapchop51]

Got caught like you with air trapped in the master cylinder of my mazdaspeed3 during the process of changing brake pads all around. Vehicle was parked in a remote outdoor location which added to my dilemma. Was a bit skeptical at first. Ended up trying it out of pure desperation and it worked great! Just had to go through the process with both front calipers in order to get the brake pedal up. Thanks.

[@markcrawford8876]

Now possible way to introduce air changing pads.

[@adamgossett3150]

Not trying to troll, but this method is incorrect. It should never take this long. A little dribble here and there doesn't kill anyone. The priority is to remove air from the system. Nothing else. And please don't use channel locks to tighten or open and close the bleeder valve. Chances are the brakes will have to be bled again and it will most likely be an unhappy mechanic looking at a chewed up bleeder valve that will not bite on any wrenches, so they have to use the wrong tools like you did and the turkey snaps right off. Use a wrench next time buddy (if possible).

[@RalphSampson...]

This is an interesting idea. You still have the concern of the master running low and introducing air into the system, again. The hose is so long, it will take, at least, a full master cylinder to fill it. So, I don't see the advantage, unless you prefilled the hose, which you didn't. To bleed the master, simply disconnect the lines from the master and connect a hose from those holes in the side of the master to the top of it to drain back into the master. The air escapes and refills the master. Once that air is out of the master, reconnect the brake lines. Yes, there will be a small bubble at each line when reconnected but, bleed the lines again. This will save on cost of a 20' hose and an extra bottle of fluid. Your long hose also will have to be emptied when complete......waste and potentially messy. I guess I don't see this process as efficient. Wow, you just said you have a vaccum bleeder. This whole process is a waste of effort. Just vacuum bleed the system making sure to watch the level of fluid in the master this time.....done in 10 minutes. Dude, don't empty the hose until the job is done. You have to keep filling it. Better yet, just stop and vacuum bleed.

[@jeffcarey944]

I just wanted to leave a quick testimonial on how this video saved me in a pinch. I made the same move when changing just the P/S caliper of my 2008 Impala - I let all the fluid drain out. I couldn't get system pressure, and I thought I was screwed! While watching this vid, I walked to Home Depot and bought 20 ft. of 5/8" hose for $8 (cut to length). It took ALOT of pumping and patience, but it worked like a charm! Thanks, saved me alot of aggravation, time, and money.

[@xx3astmanxx928]

I was able to restore full hydraulic pressure to my brake system because of this video thank u for making it! I already knew I wouldn't have to replace my master, as the reservoir never fully depleted, so no air got into the master cylinder. All I had to do was get the hose (5/16 OD 3/16 ID), and ran it to the baffle in the reservoir. My brother pumped the brakes while I slowly added a small amount of fluid, and amazingly the fluid coming from the reservoir was already immaculate, to the point that once the process was complete I simply drained the hose back into my brake fluid container. Thinking about doing the others just to be certain there's no air in the system whatsoever but I'll have to wait till the weekend lol

[@johnkirby6700]

Bad idea. You should never reuse brake fluid. It may look clean but it definitely has absorbed moisture from the air and small particles are in it from the brake system.It's cheap, so toss the old fluid.

[@ayebee1207]

So what are the chances of stuck trash in the system, downstream from the master cylinder dislodging And returning into the resevoir with you method? Recontaminate the master cylinder and tear a seal internally? Buy, or make the small return tubes. Or Bench bleed the master cylinder.

[@artbyrobot1]

probably good chances but that is why I put a coffee filter so no worries. Also, I fully bled the system prior to this process so it was already new fluid in it.

[@markquinlan6406]

I would never recommend letting the fluid come out from the caliper and putting it back into your brand new master cylinder, what you have now is old dirty fluid mixed in with the new fluid on your brand new master cylinder, it would have been a much smarter idea to run the hose into a clean soda bottle and topping off the master cylinder every three pumps or maybe even every two pumps, you will be able to tell when all the new fluid is coming from the bleeder valve into the bottle just by its color and when you get a stretch steady stream of Queen fluid going into the soda bottle you can close the bleeder and pull the hose off, and do that at each wheel if you want to change out all the fluid, if you're not really worried about the fluid that exists in the line already you really only needed to bleed at the farthest wheel on the front and back, pumping the old fluid from the wheel cylinder back into the brand new master cylinder is a very foolish thing to do, it is more likely for contamination to ruin the master cylinder then the wheel cylinder or caliper.

[@lenawayback6413]

@@markquinlan6406 but didn't he say he already bled all 4 cylinders/ wheels previously? Saying they all had new fluid and bled any noticeable air out of each? If so, wouldn't that basically prevent that issue? Plus, added coffee filter? ( not too sure about the coffee filter/ twist tie thing, but....). It wouldn't be perfect...but wouldn't that essentially avoid that recirculating contaminated fluid issue? I'm just asking....not claiming fact. I'm just trying to learn. Thnx

[@TechNed]

Thanks for the great video and tips. Couple of points I'd like to add: Even if you messed up the original task & got air into the lines, I think it was really worthwhile replacing all the used fluid with new. I wouldn't like any old fluid recirculating back into the master cylinder. The seal on the main piston is too important to risk damage so the coffee filter was a good idea but there's also rust, moisture and other grime in solution to consider - a $2 generic inline fuel filter might also have worked well there. I have a "new old stock" master cylinder for an old vehicle about to fit. The reason for the replacement is the old cylinder seal got worse after it was actuated too far on a previous brake bleed. In that case, (& the main reason we're warned against fully depressing the pedal) there was most likely a ridge formed in the old cylinder over which the seal was scraped as it rammed past, ruining it. A final point: As brake fluid is quite hygroscopic (absorbs water from the surrounding air), the whole time I kept seeing your new fluid bottle with its lid off! I wish you'd capped it between top-ups. It's the other reason the master cylinder has a sealed lid - we shouldn't leave it open to the air for too long and preferably, choose a day of low relative humidity to do a job like this. Thanks again.

[@mr.jonesautomotivevideos1312]

HELL YEA!! Good JOB...That's using your head...I work on cars, and I applaud your response...I'm going to look up Hygroscopic...Thank you for thinking of ---> "Action Reaction" We need a lot more thinking in our Country ...God Bless"

[@miloo318]

I was unaware of pressing the brake pedal down too far on the brake flush/bleed job I did on my jeep and I know I pushed that pedal to the floor many times while bleeding. I follow Chris Fix and he gave me the confidence to do the job, but he makes no mention of the importance of this action. I did introduce air into the cylinder and that is why im here on this post. Im praying the spongy pedal I have is resolved by getting the air out of he system and doesnt require me to replace the brake cylinder. :(

[@TechNed]

@@miloo318 to be fair, I suspect that's only an issue on older cars like mine (a 1980 WB Holden) which probably still had the same master cylinder for 37 years before I replaced it. After so many years of the piston bearing against the same section of cylinder wall, it creates a ridge at the top of travel, not dissimilar to the combustion cylinders where the pistons reach TDC.

[@TechNed]

Btw, that new cylinder has made a huge difference because it also prevents air entering the lines like the old one used to - so the brakes haven't needed bleeding for years now. I also treated myself to a vacuum bleeder kit - a simple hand-operated vacuum pump that makes one-man brake bleeding a lot easier. I already had a one-man kit which was basically a short length of tubing with a one-way valve but the way I stow it in a jar between bleeds means it's retained a tight curl and now requires weighting to keep it vertical and in a jar (I cut a hole in a plastic lid insert to hold it in place). Mainly, the biggest issue that I have with the one-man kit is needing to be at the pedal rather than the bleed screw so I have to trust that levels are right - that I'm not overflowing and/or the bubbles are all out as well as trusting that the reservoir level hasn't dropped too low. With the vacuum pump, you just draw out the fluid and air and even though you can't see what's happening at the cylinder end, you have more confidence that everything is ok because you can clearly see how much fluid is being drawn out. It's also less hassle and much quicker to do the job.

[@miloo318]

@@TechNed Thank you for your response. I hope you are right that one brake bleeding episode doesnt ruin a brake cylinder. I do have a spongy brake so I am hoping if I can get the master cylinder bled I will be in good shape. Some are talking about bleeding a proportional valve that is in some way affiliated with the ABS to resolve spongy brake. Who knows!

[@mica122213]

make a long story short..not every one has free data

[@hoobaguy]

Pay for wifi.

[@Peppermint1]

If I understand well, you are simply applying the communicating vessels principle: by keeping the hose full of fluid AND above the level that's inside the master cylinder, you are forcing the air inside this system to come above. You can actually just fill the hose with fluid and insert it tight at the bottom of a jar filled with fluid located at the same level as the master cylinder, then pump the brakes a few times (perhaps even just keeping the brake pedal depressed would allow the air to come above). As others mentioned here, it may be good to repeat the same at one rear wheel (just place the jar above the wheel but at the same level from the ground as what the master cylinder is located), to bleed the rest of the master cylinder. Don't hesitate to correct me if you think I'm wrong.

[@artbyrobot1]

It is my understanding that you are repeatedly pressing the brakes hundreds of times which churns up trapped air inside the master cylinder and you are moving that air bubble filled fluid down and out through the caliper nipple and then it ends up back in the reservoir where the trapped air bubbles surface and leave the fluid. Over time, all the air escapes according to this path. Just depressing the pedal would not work.

[@KINGRG1]

I cycled my ABS with my scanner and then bled all of my calipers. I have a spongy pedal at the top of the pedal (about 1/2). Will doing just the front driver caliper bleed like you are doing fix the spongy pedal? Can I get away with just bleeding the one caliper?

[@miloo318]

What did you ever find out?

[@TheCondor300]

Fill the hose with fluid first before attaching to the bleeder. Make sure there is no air in the line. Use gravity to get the air out... then attach and pump the brakes. Makes sense to me....

[@miloo318]

I thought this too! But wouldnt putting fluid into the tube make it harder for the air to travel into the hose that already has fluid into it versus just the existing air?

[@NickJackson-c1h]

This worked like a d@mn charm. Huge save for me after I stupidly sucked air into the master. Many thanks!

[@jomarugarte5006]

Cool man! I might need to do this on my frontier. What a suspense to watch... was waiting for that celebratory remark. Thanks again and all the best to your channel

[@miloo318]

Jomar, you did this and it worked? Do you have ABS? Did you have to do anything with the ABS system?

[@Darkwood73]

Just bleed my master cylinder with this trick, worked perfectly!👍🏻 Saved me a trip to the dealer.

[@willownoel5017]

Just be careful not to loosen the bleeder nut to much as it can leak air into the wheel cylinder through the threads of the bleeder nut.

[@pyromaniac354]

use grease or vasaline around the thread

[@theamazingalsome]

Just gave this a try. It did not work perfectly, but I was also doing it on a brand new master cylinder. It did make a marked improvement though, I think a good gravity bleed would take all of the air out of my system at this point. Thanks for the video.

[@miloo318]

Did you get your brakes fixed back to normal? Exactly what is the gravity brake bleed method?

[@iaguilera67]

Ha ha ha, bench bleeding is not necessary, with a power bleeder, and extremely fast, one man job.

[@zuriy3k1]

Artbyrobot what a great video thanks for taking the time to make it.Took me about 30 minutes to do the master cylinder and all 4 calibers ...this method worked for me thanks for posting it.

[@tonyacosta3918]

This guy can really TALK... plus...he's voice is so ANOING..! I don't know WHY?? He puts up this videos..when he sounds confused himself..!!

[@markthehunter9472]

Will do mine tomorrow,to sore to finish putting all new brake lines,looks good to me,thx for video.

[@critbug]

I feel your comment. I’m old.

[@jackwade793]

The reason to not push the pedal all the way down is due to wear points on the master cylinder. When new. The bore was smooth and the same size. As it gets older it develops wear points when you step on the brake over and over again. Since you never step on the brakes all the way to the floor. You are moving the seals past the wear point with a spongy pedal. This can damage the seal….. Because the seal is essentially hitting that wear spot. How much does this matter. Not much really. Is it really going to trash that seal. I’ll put it like this. Your master cylinder is probably on its way out anyway if that’s the case. This is also why I flush every 2-3 years. Contaminants and water enter the system through wear and moisture. They become fine liquid sandpaper. They will over 20 years, wear down the bore and create this wear point. Fluid flushed regularly won’t wear it at all because it’s always lubricating and when flushed. The contaminants leave the system. Transmission fluid 30-60k. Brake fluid 2 years. Cars have a maintenance schedule.

[@miatafunrun3078]

Thanks you for making this video! I melted my stock brake pads at the track, front pistons popped out and no brake fluid. The car is still under warranty and I know the dealer would not warranty what ever needed doing... So I decided to do my first brake job. After the first bleed, I could drive it but it was spongy. Bleed, drive, hit ABS, Bleed. I did this 3 times and no real improvement. I then tried this method on the Left Front and bled the other 3 wheels. That gave a 10% improvement. Back to Home Depot to buy a 20 ft cable so I could reach all 4 wheels. I did the LF, RF, RR, LR, then repeated the LF and RF. After I saw no bubbles and a solid line of fluid in the hose. I did 50 more pumps. Now I have my brakes back! I really do think a 20 ft cable is the best because you can check the entire length of the hose to make sure there are no bubbles. Thanks!

[@NahumTheMayhem]

#856 on your subs. Don't give up, youre almost there. Lets support one another in getting to the goal of 1000 subs. I gotta bleed my brakes soon too.

[@Noseypoke-mr7th]

Hi Art,Great Just did mine,but my hose was miles shorter than yours (had a job getting that first LOOONG bubble into the res. Eventually got there..and all the rest followed easy. It's a hairs breath between shut and open on the bleed screw though ;) Gotta bleed my 3 other wheels,Great tutorial Art. Cheers Again Phil,Liverpool UK

[@Ottonic6]

I just wonder why so many keep asking why he is starting with the left front brake... Pay attention! Watch from the beginning and listen....

[@ArchersPlace]

Yeah so I mean that's not bleeding the master cylinder though that's just bleeding the rear caliper from the master cylinder's reservoir to bleed the master cylinder you have to connect to its lines not the reservoir am I wrong it's like this isn't at all like any of the other videos I watched LOL

[@BAnnetteBAnnette]

My favorite part of the video was when you said "It's getting quite stiff." at 22:01 ;-)

[@jacobknapp263]

Mines 25:11 "okay, Righty-Tighty" Lmfaooooooo, That's 3rd grade stuff!!!

[@gammagonad1657]

I LAUGHED MY ASS OFF !

[@larrybroad8746]

he had wayyyy to long of a hose

[@ayebee1207]

Annettes man: "I have such a hard time with her."

[@adamgossett3150]

@@jacobknapp263 looks like he closed the bleeder valve with channel locks?

[@jasonparker9127]

Thanks for this video! Got me out of a jam and was much easier than the route I was going to take!

[@donnienicholson6062]

Or you could use a cup of fluid to drop the tube into right under the bleed valve.Air goes out,new fluid goes in.

[@rednroll1]

I'm scratching my head trying to determine how this is any different from the self bleeding your brakes method. Seems like the same method but instead of running the tube into a cup of fluid as you described, he's running a longer tube back to the fluid reservoir...which is a cup with fluid in it.

[@edhalloran7984]

@@rednroll1 Totally agree. You are jut bleeding your front driver side brake and just recycling the fluid

[@frankkallam7065]

The ideal behind bench bleeding is to move the MC piston its entire range while MC is level, thus pushing any air out. You are not moving the piston its entire range and air bubbles will still be trapped in the MC.

[@timferguson1526]

IF you can get to the fittings on the booster... no bench bleeding. You can use the fittings as bleeder valves. With them snug, have someone pump up the brakes and while they hold it, crack open the fitting on the front, the air will come out. Snug it. Have them let off the pedal. Fluid will be pulled out of the reservoir. Do both ports. Then bleed the calipers and wheel cylinder as usual.

[@migjesse20]

Does the the cap to the reservoir need to be on or off when doing all of the bleeding?

[@miloo318]

Does the reservoir cap need to be on?

[@raycruz4499]

We're human and subject to make mistakes I had been doing a brake job on my car (front and rear) as I had been rushing to get the job done I was on my last brake (driver's side rear) I put my tire back on and jumped into the driver's seat to pump the brakes and like a fool I had pumped it about 5--6 times the pedal just kept sinking to the bottom I looked at the rear tire (driver's side) and saw a large puddle by the time i jacked up the car and took my tire off all there was was a small drip coming out from the bottom of my caliper at the moment it hit me...you guessed it I forgot to put the brake pads on and my piston came out, lucky I had a caliper rebuild kit w/brand new piston the one that had came out was pitted and the square ring was scored. After the rebuild, put the pads on :), I did the same bleeding process as you did ( I did this 25-30 years ago) but I prefer the loosening the lines AFTER the master cylinder but my car is also a project to get to the MC but I'll be pulling it before the summer gets here and bleed it, this does work but keep in mind ALL the air is not out of the system but it does get you out of a jam we all make mistakes and I've been doing my own brakes 40 years now. Good video.

[@miloo318]

How do you get all the air out of master cylinder?

[@Thriller_Author]

Good technique but you only bled the air out of the primary side of the master. You would need to repeat this with one of the rear wheels to bleed the secondary side of the master cylinder

[@artbyrobot1]

wrong. bleeding in this method anywhere but the wheel nearest the master would introduce air into the rest of the system including potentially the abs system and then you have huge problems on your hands. that is terrible advice you just gave.

[@Thriller_Author]

A master cylinder has two separate hydraulic systems - a primary for the front brakes and a secondary for the rear brakes. Some cars have the primary control the front right and left rear and the secondary front left and right rear. Apart from in the reservoir there's NO fluid connection between the two circuits (not in an ABS pump or in a proportioning valve or combination valve) so that if fluid is lost from one of the circuits the other still works. So air from one circuit cannot cross over into the other.

[@artbyrobot1]

if that were actually true, it does not explain how mechanics get away with bleeding just at the wheel closest to the cylinder and get all the air out. what you are suggesting would indicate that only up to half the air could get out and you are guaranteed to introduce air into the rest of the system when you bleed from the other wheels. This means introducing air into the abs system which is to be avoided

[@michaelmclernon4929]

I disagree about getting air into the abs system, it is a closed hydraulic system isolated from the chassis brake fluid by pistons that are controlled by valves. I do agree that he is getting air out of only one half of the M/C. I would bleed the Master cylinder out at its two tubing connections, one at a time of course until you do not see any more air coming out, you will also hear it - this method takes practise, but still has to be followed up with the all wheel bleeding as he suggested. If in doubt bench bleed, and if there is room this can be done on the car. Brake fluid is the cheapest component of a brake system - so if in doubt bleed some more. It's worth the peace of mind to use a bit extra and it isn't something you can keep around once it's been opened anyway.

[@ironwill04]

It seems like what you are describing is basically bleeding the one wheel. I don't understand how your are doing anything different then that. I would love to see the difference. If that is what you are doing then it would stand to reason that any time you bleed the brakes the you would push the air ought of the master cylinder. I agree master cylinders are divided into two sections as a safety situation. Short concise videos are the best.

[@tonyarlo1247]

May be a dumb question but what about the rear brake line from the mc? Does that part get bled when doing this? Whn bench bleeding you have two hoses going into the MC. I want to do this because my brake line blew when pulling my boat out. and by the time I replaced the ten ft section running to the back the mc was drained. Tx and nice video

[@artbyrobot1]

The rear hose leaving the master cylinder does not get bled properly using this method and that is by design. If you were to bleed that you would introduce air into the abs system and possibly screw things up. This is why you bleed only on the wheel closest to the master cylinder - driver front. That said, all the bubbles created by the constant pumping and churning of the master cylinder over and over create a frothy interior where over hundreds of little pumps, the air bubbles do all come out in time. It just takes way more pumps this way which is fine since you can sit in your car comfortably pumping with your foot.

[@davidmagazzi6727]

great idea, but you only did one side of the master.i would have done all 4 wheels(no need to remove wheels) the hose is cheap enough.just turn the wheels to access the bleeders in the front, and go under the rear to access the rear wheels. then you would bleed the entire system. both the rear and front journals of the master cylinder as well as the abs modules ,calipers wheel cylinders(if drums in the rear)and lines to the wheels. and whallah!! COMPLETE!! bleed. im gonna do this to my 06 ranger,as i think it has issues with air in the master and or abs unit after changing a line. thanks art.

[@MrHarey31]

The video is titled Easiest Master Bleed. It is about bleeding the master cylinder not the entire system. Bleeding your brakes is a pretty standard widely understood process. This is for bleeding the master cylinder without needing to remove it to bench bleed it. At the end of the video he says he will go and bleed each brake now.

[@MrHarey31]

@therockkkkher yeah but all David Magazzi suggests to do afterwards is a normal brake bleed of each wheel. That's easy and a very common thing to do with how to steps easy to find. I did bleed the 4 wheels afterwards but this video saved my butt and I couldn't find similar instructions elsewhere. (I tried bleeding the 4 wheels first but did not solve the problem until I followed the steps in this video first).

[@aprescott9035]

After you’re done with the hose, it Sure will waste a lot of fluid. What a waste of good clean fluid. You sure talk a lot to your camera. Lol. Good job

[@michaeladrian7531]

great video..i just change my brake master cylinder/reservoir so i will be using this method to bleed the MC.

[@artbyrobot1]

Great let me know how it goes!

[@trollslayer4464]

Thanks for the video. It saved me a lot of grief!

[@juliej4111]

Two problems with this. 1) You are bleeding your calibers not your master cylinder. 2) It's not recommended you reuse your brake fluid. Tiny air bubbles get stuck in reused fluid, especially with an empty tube.

[@artbyrobot1]

when you bleed a caliper, the fluid is exiting the master bringing bubbles in the master with it clearing out the air pockets in the master. If you put tubes out the master for bench bleed, those tubes feed back into the master doing the same thing shorter lines. Same principle. So to say this doesn't bleed the master is factually incorrect. #2 - I was not reusing brake fluid. I was using new brake fluid and cycling it through the system to remove air pockets from the master. The fluid was put in within 24 hours of this job taking place. That means it is not old fluid and should absolutely NOT be discarded for no good reason. Any air bubbles in the fluid enter the master reservoir and float to the top and are not trapped in any way so are removed from the system.

[@fatwalletboy2]

just gotta be very careful when moving around the car if bleeding out other calipers using the same long hose method.dont want to get any fluid that might end up on the tube outer coming into contact with your paintwork.

[@lemmy999]

I have a rear motorcycle master cylinder I just rebuilt and I can't get the air out. On a motorcycle the rear caliper is really close to the master cylinder reservoir so I won't need such a long piece of hose, but this idea should work. Thanks!

[@robertmoore618]

I have a 2005 997 Porsche Carrera. I had my calipers rebuilt and polymer coated. I also added new rotors and changed my flexible brake lines. After reassembly, I used my Motive System to bleed the brakes. After four rounds of bleeding, the pedal still did not feel right. I used this method, as I had no one to help me. The Porsche calipers have two bleed valves per caliper. I bled the front four. I pumped the pedal until there was continuous fluid in the clear hose. You can see the air and feel the difference in the pedal. It took many presses of the pedal to achieve the continuous fluid, however, it did work to get all the air out of the system. Thanks.

[@artbyrobot1]

Awesome sounds like I helped someone! :)

[@ffas23]

The Motive Power bleeder is a great bleeder. I purchased one just to use on my C2 and C3 Corvettes years back because they are some of the worst cars to bleed. It came with the same adapter just for the 2nd and 3rd generation Corvettes. Power bleeders mount to the top of a Master Cylinder. Comes with a large plastic bottle that fills with brake fluid. Has a pump and gauge. You pump the bottle up to a certain pressure. Can't remember the pressure but I believe it is 20 pounds as of the moment and just let it sit under the hood. You then use a bottle and clear hose and take it from wheel to wheel. Put the hose on your bleeder screw, a box wrench to your bleeder and bleed away. Sometimes you can bleed the whole car without having to pump the plastic cylinder again. They are great but you need too many adapters today if you want to use it on many vehicles the reason I vacuum pump all other vehicles I work on today.

[@justinvenuto7887]

@@ffas23 can you plz msg me at 6099705936

[@jamescole3152]

Ok so maybe I should drain out all of the old fluid first?

[@chessboardman7888]

Great - a guy who say righty tighty (25:11) is teaching me a thing or two about car brakes, Thanks

[@jbeargrr]

I have replaced all my bleeder valves with speed bleeders. They have a one-way valve inside so fluid goes out, but air doesn't go back in. You put them in just like regular bleeder valves. To bleed, you loosen 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, put a vinyl hose on the valve as usual, and pump the brakes. No 2nd person needed. I just replaced a broken brake line. After I bled the brakes, I still have pedal to the floor. I'll try bleeding the MC, and re-bleed the brakes.

[@kontrarien5721]

Me too. They're fantastic.

[@DrekeTheTank]

Awesome video! Thank you! What size, grade etc. tubing did you use?

[@artbyrobot1]

Its vinyl tubing from the hardware store I mention the exact measurements in the video but don't remember off hand. Glad the video is helping people!

[@DrekeTheTank]

Thank you!

[@artbyrobot1]

as a side note, the bleeder nipples on different cars are different sizes so your tubing inside diameter may need to be larger than mine.

[@DavidLorellHoskins]

He says in the video the inner diameter of the tubing is 3/16 and the outer is 5/16

[@caratcranker5874]

Don't go off that, if you don't have tubing at home, just take your bleeder valve to the hardware shop......; }

[@leewatkins1610]

wow!35 minutes for a yiutube vid to explain this 20 minute job?

[@abqrivera]

I had a similar experience to yours, letting the level get too low while bleeding. Your system worked like a charm. Thanks

[@robertcecil9993]

I did the same thing you did on my 2002 Blazer LS air in the MC. I will try this method in your video as soon as I can get back to it and will let you know how it worked, Thanks !

[@miloo318]

How did it go?

[@DukeGaGa]

This works quite well, I just did this myself with a slight modification, I attached an extra hose to my rear calipers as well. To those that don't think this works, you guys need to go look at how bench bleeding is done, it's the exact same principle as with this, pump fluid through the ports on the master cylinder until all air is gone, and there are master cylinder bleeder kits that essentially does the same thing as this, which is rerouting back the fluid pushed through the ports back so you don't need a ton of fluid. The only issue with this video is that he didn't have a hose on one of his rear calipers, which should be fine since the air got in when he was bleeding one of the front caliper, but in my experience, air will go into any space that isn't filled with other stuff, so better attach a hose to the rear as well. Also, if you really want to do this thoroughly, and bleed the master cylinder and calipers at the same time, I suggest you buy a few 3 way fittings and connect the hoses together from all calipers, then route them back to the reservoir, then just pump till all the hoses show no bubbles at all, then have a friend hold the brake pedal down when you close off the bleeder screws one by one (pump a few times, hold, close one bleeder, repeat).

[@artbyrobot1]

I completely agree you are dead on with everything you said.

[@dee6816]

can u find a pic of such 3 way fittings to connect all 4 caliper bleeders and route to reservoir? thx

[@DukeGaGa]

@@dee6816 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017UXJBDQ this is what I used

[@stevecalhoun4791]

thats a good idea but i gt a better idea i have done get one small thing of brake fluid set on ground stick tube in it then on bleeder screw then open bleeder then pump brakes

[@ffas23]

The master cylinder is suppose to be full with fluid and then be capped off to bleed it by using the brake pedal. Bleeding with a vacuum bleeder you leave the cap off. Didn't like what I was seeing when you tried to vacuum bleed it. Based on the little fluid you were getting out of the bleeder into the hose it seemed like you were trying to bleed with the cap on the Reservoir a common mistake people do using that vacuum type of tool your are using. I know I have the exact same vacuum tool. You kept squeezing and pumping and getting basically no fluid but a lot of air. With the Cap off of the reservoir 3 or 4 squeezes or pumps and you should stop. Look at your gauge and you should of built up 30-40 pounds of pressure on the vacuum pump as the needle will drop as it pulls fluid into the system and out of the caliper into the little bottle that is suppose to be in the clear line between the Caliper and vacuum tool. When you stop seeing bubbles in the clear line attached to the caliper you are bleeding tighten the bleeder and go to the next furthest wheel from the Master Cylinder. The sequence is Passenger rear to Drivers rear to Passenger Front to Driver Front right next to the master cylinder. I tell you this from experience 38 years as a owner in the Auto Parts business. Retired 5 years now.

[@artbyrobot1]

The cap was off. Maybe air was getting in through the cap of the vacuum hose plastic container which required me to keep pumping to maintain enough suction.

[@ffas23]

artbyrobot could be. There is a very thin O-Ring under the plastic cap of the little bottle that comes with the vacuum bleeder that might of been missing. What you are suppose to do before anything is test your equipment and not assume it is working correctly. Put your finger over the hose you plan to connect to the bleeder and pump squeeze the vacuum tool 2-3 times and look at the gauge to see if it is holding vacuum. Only then knowing it is holding vacuum should you use the tool. There is a little pin off the side of the gauge to release the vacuum when working with the tool if you need to let off the vacuum pull. This way you are not introducing Air into the system.

[@ffas23]

Could be. There is a very thin O-Ring between the cap and bottle on the bleeder. With it missing or damaged in some way it would leak and not hold a vacuum. You are suppose to test your Vacuum tool out before starting to bleed by placing your finger over the hose that will be going over the bleeder screw attached to the little bottle and pumping 2-3 times watching the gauge to see if it is holding vacuum. The needle should not drop at all. You should have to push in the pin on the gauge to release the vacuum or let go of the hose from your finger for it to lose vacuum. Otherwise using the vacuum bleeder like that you are only introducing air into the system. There is no way you could of gotten the air out of the system using the tool the way you did. Not picking on you just pointing out the obvious. Give you a lot of credit for producing the video but as you saw you have a lot of people following this video thinking everything you did was the right thing to do. As I mentioned earlier pumping the brakes with the cap off of the Brake Reservoir will also bring air into the system. You should never do that. If you have a link to the video you saw that told you to do that I would like to see it. Are you sure they weren't telling you to use a vacuum tool instead being the system would be open with the cap off of the top of the Master cylinder Reservoir? I am suspect about that because pumping the brake pedal with the cap open is a no no.

[@ffas23]

You are suppose to check your vacuum tool first to make sure it is holding vacuum by holding your finger over the hose you plan on putting on the bleeder screw with that little bottle attached. 2-3 squeezes of the trigger on the vacuum pump and look at the gauge. The needle in the gauge should not move a bit showing the unit is holding vacuum. You should have to push the needle on the gauge to release that vacuum or take your finger off the hose. The way you did it you were just introducing more air to the system and there is no way you pulled the air out of the system doing what you did when bleeding. I could see it in the video. You should of had a steady stream of fluid coming out of the hose looking for bubbles going to that little bottle in between the brake caliper and vacuum pump. Pumping again once all vacuum is shown to be lost until the air bubbles stop. Not continuing to pump and pump. Not picking on you here. Just pointing out the obvious. Give you plenty of credit for producing your video but you have people coming to it here on KZbin thinking everything you did was the proper procedure and it wasn't. For the heck of it if you don't mine can you post the link to the video showing you how to bench bleed the M/C like you did on the car. I would like to take a look at it.

[@BigJwlz]

The service manual for an Acura TL specifies the bleed order as driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, driver rear.

[@roderickconstantino5354]

You can probably add a inline filter to the tubing. I wpuld probably bench bleed any ways (without kit) prior to this method and since i have a civic with 2 calipers, i can probably do both at the same time. I dont think ive ever had my brake fluid that airless before. Gonna be a good braking experience.

[@whiteknight6775]

Oh god cut the detail short and just get on with the job already. We don't need to know the whole detail.

[@mr.fix-it4732]

At the end of this video you basically sound like the brakes are so so...well if you get in an accident....you have 260K witnesses that your brakes were less than efficient....and a video showing it. LOL

[@artbyrobot1]

its been years and the fix was a success no issues.

[@santanagarcia5484]

We did it!! Thank you so much man! Just did this after a ton of work and almost having to buy a new master cylinder and bench bleed. Awesome video man. Saved me a lot of money👌

[@billiebowling7755]

Won't work.dont need all that line. Just a empty water bottle with one inch on brake fluid and bout 14" of tubing, pump brakes and watch bubbles go up and fluid gets sucked back in. However you do have to keep an eye on fluid level once again

[@artbyrobot1]

that's a good method BUT if moving very large amounts of fluid to remove large qty of air in master cylinder, then you want a full loop back to master since you'll be topping levels 5 gallons worth which will take forever

[@roderickconstantino5354]

i didnt realize the logic of this simple contraption/concept. Thanks dude!

[@axelr8053]

So basically 1st your reintroducing containmented brake fluid? 2nd 10ft hose Why? Your bleeding concept is correct. Try 1-2 ft if hose in a plastic coke bottle drill hole on cap so your hose fits.fill coke bottle 1/4 so that your hose is submerged in brake fluid. Attach other hose end to caliper bleeder screw& open it. Go pump your brakes 3 or 4 times then retighten bleeder screw. Do this to each wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder brake fluid level. A one person job minus containmented brake fluid & 8 ft of extra hose. Yazmin Venice Beach Ca 🇱🇷

[@johncollins8304]

So basically you couldn't understand what he said.

[@euanvideoproductions6042]

Great video. I just did exactly the same thing as you, so this will help a lot. Do you only need to run this process off of one caliper? Also, doesn't the air you send out from cylinder just get sent back in via the tube? or is it then dissipated when it hits the fluid in the reservoir? Thanks.

[@artbyrobot1]

cool! Thanks for letting me know! I'm so glad this is helping someone since the idea of pulling out the dang thing is shuddering to even consider! haha

[@artbyrobot1]

as to your question, it worked for me via just the one caliper and then a full bleed of each caliper (a full brake flush of whole car). However, some people do what I did with the one caliper on all 4 calipers and that is probably an even more certain way to do it. But the person who recommended this technique and does it all the time (pro mechanic) said he just does the one caliper and then a normal brake flush of all brakes after

[@artbyrobot1]

To answer your second question, the fluid reservoir is where the air escapes the tube in the form of bubbles and escapes out of the top opening of the reservoir. The bubbles rise and leave the system.

[@euanvideoproductions6042]

cheers pal, I assumed as much.

[@charlesboyer8207]

Same as bench bleeding.

[@randy1ization]

u dont need to do all that shit.., just pour a few inches of fluid in the bottom of a coke bottle, stick the hose in the bottom of the bottle, and tape the tube to the top of the bottle. then attach the other end to the brake caliper and pumpy pumpy

[@kirbs523]

I've got a motive power brake bleeder which is way easier than this method

[@ffas23]

The Motive Power Bleeder is a great tool. I own one that I purchased specifically for my C2 and C3 Corvettes I have in my collector car collection because those early Corvette's were some of the worse cars to bleed and the Motive Power bleeder works great on them. For those not familiar with it the Motive Power bleeder comes with a Adapter for your specific cars Master Cylinder or you can get one with many adapters. I only purchased mine for the old Corvettes and use my vacuum bleeder set up for everything else. Gets too expensive the other way to buy many different adapters and maybe still not have the right one for the car you on working on. With the Motive Power bleeder there is a large bottle that you put brake fluid inside of. It comes equipped with a pump very similar to bottles you pump up to spray weed killer on your property. Well the pump seals off the bottle that also contains a Gauge similar to the gauge on a vacuum bleeder. You pump it up to say 20 lbs. Check it to see that it is holding pressure to your master cylinder reservoir. Then you just go around and start bleeding your brakes at the furthest brake away. Sometimes you can bleed all 4 wheels with the pressure you have put inside the Motive Bleeder without having to pump up more pressure to it but if needed you can just pump it up a little more to what ever you need. Its probably the best way that I know of to bleed brakes but the Vacuum way is perfectly fine. The Motive Power Bleeder continues to feed brake fluid to the master cylinder whereas the vacuum bleeder doesn't and you have to keep an eye on the Master Cylinder reservoir to add fluid to it.

[@DannyHacker1]

kirbs523 yeah but this method costs maybe 5 bucks or so lol

[@rachelrosen4666]

Why risk putting old brake fluid from your caliper back into the master cylinder? You should only allow new fluid through there

[@artbyrobot1]

its about putting a lot of volume through and you don't want to buy that much fluid if it just goes to waste then better to cycle it all through. you could even refill with new fluid as final step though but it doesn't matter that much

[@_google_user_]

Weird I'm going to put the old fluid into a bottle with the hose and have an air hole in the lid of the bottle. This saves me $8 though.

[@hectorrzepeda2998]

Google User this doesn't sound anything proffesional , if anybody's worried about spending money on brake fluid, go to Walmart and save a few bucks...this is called a mickey mouse job In Latin america

[@_google_user_]

hectot zepeda what? It does the same thing as bleeding into a bottle.

[@hectorrzepeda2998]

Google User you are right sir it does the same job ..but only one is doing more damage than the other...the key word is HYDROSCOPIC OIL which is what the brake fluid is

[@hectorrzepeda2998]

It's unlike engine or transmission oil each oil on that car has it's functions ...that guys is taking air out but Re- introducing tiny particles of debri and moisture ... basically it's going to turn black in a few weeks

[@hectorrzepeda2998]

And I'm sorry for using big words u could not coprehend... I take that back it's not my fault u flunked grade school a decided to do meth and play video games