Bleeding and refreshing the brake fluid in an MGB using the Gunson’s Eezibleed System One Person Job

Please consider joining the channel for more racing and DIY videos: / @davidrussellwilks
A video covering refreshing and bleeding the brake fluid in an MGB as a one person job. I used the Gunson’s Eezibleed kit, it’s a universal kit that suits many models and is easy to use. www.opieoils.co.uk/p-90084-gu...
The little brake fluid pen tester came from eBay there available from several sellers. The Motul 660RBF brake fluid is available from Ope Oils www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1078-mot... they also stock the Comma and Castrol fluids www.opieoils.co.uk/p-131806-c....
I had to re-shoot the video of the rear wheel as the light was not very good hopefully it doesn’t look too dis-jointed.
Please be very careful when working on the braking system, on an early MGB it is fairly straightforward but don’t hesitate to get in touch with any questions. If you are at all unsure it is worth seeking professional advice before starting any work.
Don't forget to subscribe in order to stay up-to date with the how-to videos and the race footage as they are published.

[@jamesstanden9583]

P.s car looks the business

[@marccruz5765]

I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!

[@fletcherbrodie3955]

@Marc Cruz instablaster :)

[@marccruz5765]

@Fletcher Brodie I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.

[@jamesstanden9583]

Keep it going David, I’ve watched most of your videos now and find them very informative.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks James, delighted to hear you are enjoying the videos!

[@timbosinius3653]

Another great and very detailed video. Thanks. BTW - Your MGB looks absolutely stunning.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Tim!

[@KrisFLton]

Brilliant. Thank you. Doing this for the first time on my BGT in the next few days after replacing the front callipers. Just what I needed…

[@deltafoxtrot2]

Thanks for taking the effort to film and share...😊

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your positive comment, delighted to hear you enjoyed the video

[@michaelwatson1428]

Thanks your cars like clean

[@HollinesstoGod]

I have been looking for a detailed explanation on how to use the kit and bleed the brakes. I think you're the best I have seen. Keep it up👍🏾

[@davidrussellwilks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@AaronG303]

G'day David Your video had perfect timing and once again an excellent explanation. Along with the reinstall of the windshield over the Canadian summer I've also planned to bleed the brakes, the first by me on my 65 roadster. The Gunson Eezibleed is now on order! I rate your explanation including vision/editing up there with the best when it comes to learning the MGB "secrets". Well done sir! Cheers Aaron G

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Aaron, the Gunson's set does seem to work well for me, especially if you are bleeding the brakes yourself. Just remember to keep the reservoir pot topped up. Also don't do what I did around 20 years ago which was to bleed the brakes without the front pads fitted; I pushed the pistons out of the caliper! Silly school boy error only made one. I'm hoping to re-shoot the windscreen video to show re-fitting it to the car but just haven't really had time, hope all goes well!

[@AaronG303]

@@davidrussellwilks Gday David - I bled the brakes today, followed your instructions and everything worked fine. My bleed kit hissed a tad as well but plenty of towels etc ensured the reservoir did not overspill. The bleed nipples were different size on my 65. The back ones weren't 7mm, a 1/4" spanner worked on those. The front were much larger (I cant recall the size). DOT 3 was my go-to which was the equivalent to the fluid type recommended for the original systems....there is so much conjecture of the those types according to agae of system, seal types etc. Cheers again Aaron G

[@MGB-learning]

Outstanding video!

[@generatorjohn4537]

I have this very same bleeding kit. Works great! Used it to bleed my 1980 Triumph TR7's brake and clutch system.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks, I find it a very effective set.

[@nobbylonjw8398]

nice video and shows very clearly every step.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Glad you liked it

[@gjones455]

Great video, very informative and well presented. Many thanks for sharing

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks!

[@markjones8846]

Nice video David, thanks

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Mark

[@bobbygreen107]

Brilliant video, exactly what I was looking for! Thank you

[@davidrussellwilks]

Great to hear, many thanks!

[@tkreitler]

I've been waiting for you to upload this and am so happy that today is the day. I started on my brakes with a vacuum bleeder. The unit also came with an automatic refill device which is designed to put new fluid back in the master cylinder as the old fluid is withdrawn. The system did not work as advertised. The vacuum would pull some fluid out of the bleeders but would stop pulling before the new fluid got there. I stopped there and ordered EZ Bleeders which are a one way check valve that replaces the regular bleeders. This would allow me to still bleed the brakes by myself by pumping the pedal. Using the EZ bleeders and the automatic refill device that came with the vacuum bleeder, I began pumping and the first caliper went great - the old fluid came out and new fluid went through and the MC stayed filled. I proceeded to do the rest of the brakes trusting the automatic refill would continue to work. It did not and I ran the MC dry. I kick myself for not paying closer attention and also for not purchasing the Gunson's in the beginning. I believe my only option now is to bench bleed the MC and start over. I would like to know if you have any tips on purging the MC.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Hi Trent, that is a real pain, and it is easily done. I had to swap out the master cylinder in my car a few years but I DIDN'T bench bleed the system first. What master cylinder do you have in your car is it the earlier or later type? Not bench bleeding didn't seem to be a problem with the single line master cylinder. I used the same procedure as above bleeding the furthest wheel first; it didn't take very long to purge the air from the system. I think it would be worth trying to bleed the brakes again before removing the M/C from the car?

[@tkreitler]

@@davidrussellwilks It is a 1967 with the single master cylinder. That is good to hear that I may not need to bench bleed. I'll try again and hope for the best. Thank you!

[@davidrussellwilks]

@@tkreitler It's certainly worth a try!

[@ashy1423]

Great informative video. Thank you Ash from Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@davidrussellwilks]

Glad you enjoyed it, Best Regards

[@colinwillox7648]

Brilliant video. Thank you.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@ianrutherford7060]

Excellent video as per usual,keep them coming it’s the only way I can service my Mgb 😂

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thanks! Will do!

[@michaelwatson1428]

Your very good instructor

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Michael, glad you enjoyed the video.

[@ianrimmer1968]

That MGB looks great. Hope it’s still going well. 👍👍😀

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Ian, all going well, racing begins again in 2023

[@PhilSavageHDCCHUCC]

Thank-you again for another thorough and informative video. Giving me the confidence to work on my own car. A couple of questions I thought of through the video, how will I know that I have purged the old fluid out of the brake lines and now have fresh fluid in? Is it a guestimate based on approximate length of line and internal diameter or is there something that I should look for (other than say bubbles)? Also, with your little collection device, what was the internal diameter of the rubber hose please? I like it and will make my own but a rough idea of ID would be handy (I'm guessing 4-5mm ID but that's quite a guess). Cheers, Phil.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message Phil, if the fluid in your car is old it would be worth using a syringe or similar to take most of the fluid out of the master cylinder, leaving just enough in the reservoir so air does not enter. Once you have filled with fresh fluid and taken around 100ml or so out of the furthest bleed nipple this should mean that the old fluid is out of the system. Often the old brake fluid is a darker colour and once you can see that clear fluid is coming through it should mean that the system is purged. The hose I use for the collector is 4mm ID and is silicone, making it a bit more stretchy.

[@PhilSavageHDCCHUCC]

@@davidrussellwilks perfect, thank-you.

[@jacktorrance8677]

David great video, I’m doing my MGA soon, so similar procedure, and I have a eezee bleed system. One question just out of interest, what gloves do you use for your mechanics work, and are they oil proof etc. Thanks Jack and keep the vids coming.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Jack, the gloves are not fully water proof but are enough to keep oil/great etc off my skin, and thin enough to feel what you are doing. They are also breathable which I why I prefer them to the vinyl/latex type. The ones I buy are here www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-Pairs-Of-Brand-New-White-Nylon-PU-Safety-Work-Gloves-Builders-Grip-Gardening/181031170878?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=480203076638&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[@Templar7832]

These videos are so great. I will be watching them and following them attentively! I get my MGB tomorrow hopfully and brake bleed will probably be one of the first things I do. Your brakes are obviously different to the original ones is the process the same?

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message, the process is the same even with a brake servo fitted. The brakes on my car are the same as the original ones but we are allowed to use race pads.

[@Templar7832]

@@davidrussellwilks hi David thanks for so prompt a reply! It’s all new to me I’ve never done it before so you are invaluable!! There’s so much to do on mine it’s untrue

[@michelmoonen3433]

Great video David. I was wondering, how did you get all your technical knowledge? Perhaps work related or only from learning by doing? I go for the Pippi Longstocking way: ‘I have never done this before, so it should work’ 😬 With some basic knowledge started on a good original Californian car, running and driving project. Happy with every nut and bolt that loosens easily, but far from the state that your car is in. Interested in how you got so far that we are learning from you! Greetings from a small town near Maastricht.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message Michael, I've never had any formal mechanical training; in my twenties I worked at a friends garage on and off for a few years mainly just working on my own car (an MGB GT). We also had a side line selling MGB parts and restoring cars, I usually looked after the sales side more but certainly enjoyed working on the cars too. A few years later I started the race car project and built most of the car myself with the help from the team at Lone Pine Garage in the UK. I didn't build the engine, gearbox or back differential but I can most of the work is mine including preparing the body for paint, but not spraying it. The team at Lone Pine were great to have on hand though for any questions that I had. I started making videos of the racing back in 2013 and tried to improve on these as I went along. I made a time lapse video in September 2018 showing the engine and gearbox removal, this seemed quite popular and got lots of views so I decided to make a few more videos showing the basic jobs on these cars. From the responses to the videos it seems that there are lots of home users who would like to work on their cars but are unsure where to start. Hopefully the videos I make will give people the confidence to try. With my car I am lucky that the bolts are all fairly new and assembled with aluminium great so are easy to remove!

[@michelmoonen3433]

@David Russell-Wilks: many thanks for your reply. Years of hobbying experience and help from some friends... that’s the secret I gather. O yes, and leaving the really difficult tasks to specialists. Not to Pippi Longstocking 🙂 I used to work on an old Peugeot 504 (1973) with my dad, wo died six years ago. I still own this car and it is 100% original, the MG is my own project now. Flying solo. Taking on every battle at a time. Currently fighting the petrol filler cap of which the lock decided to fail. I think it is great that people, such as yourself, take the effort to share their experience with others so that we can learn. Lots of thanks for that! Keep it up and your number of followers will grow. 💪🏻

[@petrsimacek8545]

Hi David, great video for someone who just bought the first MGB like myself. I was wondering if you could advise - during the first drive the break pedal lost suddenly twice pressure during some 60miles drive. When I applied the force again, it was ok. Would you advice to bleed the breaks or is it showing a problem with the break master cylinder? The car was not much used last few years before I bought it . Many thanks for your advise and please keep doing those videos.. with kind regards Petr

[@pauleld1]

Hi, excellent video and very informative. Do you have any plans to do one on replacing the brake discs? 👍👍

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message Paul, I probably won't be doing one covering the brake discs this year as the rotors are still pretty good at the moment. John Twist has a good video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmepcqudZppji9E, probably the most important part of the job is making sure you shim the bearing assembly correctly when you refit.

[@davidrussellwilks]

I made a video covering most of the braking system here studio.kzbin.info82ykSEs-oIE/edit

[@olivers.7151]

Great video! Will be bleeding my own brakes for the first time soon. Is it the same process if I have drums in the rear?

[@davidrussellwilks]

Just the same Oliver, the rear brakes on my car are drums too, they are painted silver the same as the originals though

[@yathatisgood]

If you don’t have a spare tire, could you just lower the pressure of a wheel attached to the car to below 20psi and then just pump it back up once your done?

[@motoringon]

Thanks for another wonderful video. How does one pressure bleed dua line 1969 reservoir that had the larger cap with this system and two sections?

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thanks for your message, one should be able to use the pressure bleeder in exactly the same way with the tandem master cylinder. The Gunson set comes with a variety of caps to suit.

[@DavidUKesb]

Very informative once again David. I'm surprised the pipe is black instead of clear though as how do you know when the old fluid is bled from the brake line? If pipe was clear I assume you'd see a change of colour and also be able to check for air.

[@davidrussellwilks]

I did originally have a clear pipe but it split so went over to the black one. By looking for bubbles abd the colour of the fluid going into the jar I could tell if the brakes were bled. I've since been able to find a good quality clear silicone pipe and am using that now.

[@DavidUKesb]

@@davidrussellwilks I'm hoping to bleed the brakes on my MGB GT and 1300 ADO16 very soon and was going to use the gravity method. Apparently takes much longer but that's not an issue for me. Have you ever used this method and if so did it work out ok for you? Many thanks

[@user-et3wx4hu1m]

Hi David. Great video, good clear explanation. Quick question, I've got a 73 MGBGT road car and have had to change the rear brake line and cylinder. I'm using a power bleeder but the pedal is not getting firm. Is it a case of still air in the system?

[@davidrussellwilks]

If there are no leaks then the cause of a soft pedal is most likely air still in the system. It can sometimes be worth waiting a few days before bleeding again. A failing master cylinder can also cause these issues if you are having the pump the brakes to get them to work.

[@douglasgreen437]

Good job 🤔👍

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Douglas!

[@PompeyMatt17]

that car is spotless !!!..... does it help the remove the engine when bleeding brakes or can I leave it? 😁... great video..

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Matt, removing the engine is optional!

[@PompeyMatt17]

@@davidrussellwilks 😁😁😁

[@leeash74]

What about if you've had to rebuild both master cylinders like I am in the process of? Can I use this bleed system having put the whole assembly back in place dry?

[@davidrussellwilks]

Yes, you can use the Eezibleed on a dry system, for the brakes work on the furthest one from the master cylinder first. It might be worth bleeding twice just to make sure all the air is expelled.

[@davelinkson1]

Good video, thanks. I have a servo on my B and my brakes are pumping up even after trying to bleed, all looks in order, no leaks anywhere, am thinking 10 year old servo is faulty and needs replacing, as the pedal vacuum test isn't correct, as nothing much happening..

[@davidrussellwilks]

If the brakes are pumping up it can be down to the rubber hoses failing, often they look fine from the outside but can break down internally. If you have not changed them in the last 10 years I would be tempted to try this?

[@Flapjacktastic]

What size tubing do you use on the bleed nipple leading to the waste jar?

[@davidrussellwilks]

It's 5mm ID silicone hose, ideal for both the front and rear brakes

[@daveyoung8862]

Hi, great video. I've gone through everything on your video but brakes still spongy, any ideas would be appreciated.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thanks for your message Dave, spongy brakes is usually due to air in the system. Were the brakes spongey before you bled them or after?

[@daveyoung8862]

@@davidrussellwilks Hi, thanks for replying. No the rear passenger brake piston was corroded and failed locking the brake calliper onto the drum. I have replaced the entire rear brake assemblies on the rear wheels , shoes , pistons, springs etc. Wondered if I had let the brake fluid get to low in the master cylinder?. I have then gone on and followed your steps in the video but brakes still spongy and will only brake at foot to the floor. Would the brake servo have any thing to do with it. Was going to repeat the process with the engine running today. It's a 1972 model.Thanks Dave.

[@bisonuberti]

Thank you... I see you used this method on an MGB, can I use the same method on a 1973 MG Midget MKIII?

[@davidrussellwilks]

Yes, all you need to do is choose the correct adaptor for the EeziBleed and your master cylinder

[@bisonuberti]

@@davidrussellwilks Thank you kindly, cheers.

[@stuwhite2337]

How much pedal travel do you have, and how firm is the pedal? I'm struggling to get a decent pedal travel on my B

[@davidrussellwilks]

A few things that may cause a soft pedal: Water in the brake fluid or old brake fluid Rear wheel cylinders not adjusted correctly Poor rubber hoses front and rear (these can break down internally and should be changed every 10 years) A failing master cylinder A failing brake servo if fitted The pedal should be fairly firm, I'd start at the top of the list and work down, the first three items are the cheapest to fix.

[@stuwhite2337]

@@davidrussellwilks thanks. My problem is all the brake components except the drums are new and the rear brakes are fully adjusted. Also bled the system multiple times and got rid of the servo. I have a very similar set up on my 7 kit car, i.e non servo discs and drums and the brakes are fantastic. Maybe I just need the pads to bed in more.

[@tweedledamn2951]

I bought one of these kits but I cannot get the fluid bottle to be airtight.... 😞

[@davidrussellwilks]

They do sometimes leak around the hose. Always try the bottle first with no fluid in but with the air connected, usually a little bit of fine tuning allows you to stop the leaks. Careful not to over tighten the top on the bottle, they can split.

[@timbunker4529]

Used one of these yesterday on a Caterham having replaced both rear cylinders. Ran it at 15psi and pumped through plenty of fluid and no bubbles coming through. Tested brakes, nothing, no brakes! Scratched head then did it the old way with a friend pedal pumping, brakes came up perfect nice firm pedal. With the eezi bleed spongey and no pressure. I really can't recommend these bits of kit.

[@seanpaul3050]

15psi is too low, especially for the rears which are further from the reservoir. On my BMW I use around 27psi.

[@Templar7832]

For some bizarre reason this absolutely did not work today :( No brakes. No idea what I've done wrong.

[@davidrussellwilks]

I'd probably start with the master cylinder if all the brakes are poor. Are the seals in it good?

[@Templar7832]

@@davidrussellwilks Hi David, I think so. I didn't hear any leaks and all the fluid came out clear with no bubbles from every quarter. But I have new EBC green pads and cross vented drilled disks. so no idea...

[@redbarchetta8782]

It's a shame but they don't last long before parts start failing. Seals etc.

[@davidrussellwilks]

That is true, I got around 7 years out of the last Eezibleed before it started to fail (a cracked lid). I felt given the low price it was acceptable though.