Cheap Oil Leak Fix - The $2 Jeep Repair You Keep Avoiding

Follow along as I take on the job I've been avoiding for several years... Replacing the oil filter adapter O-ring gasket on my 1998 Jeep Cherokee.
Get all 3 of your O-rings here:
Crown: amzn.to/2EDuvJm
OR
Mopar: amzn.to/2Hs4WZp
T-60 Torx bit: amzn.to/2FiMvWE
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This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee XJ, wrangler TJ, wrangler JK, or any Jeep vehicle, especially the newer Fiat ones. How-to videos may be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the 4x4 ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I'm not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don't believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in Bleepinjeep mirrors may be farther than they appear.
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[@graken22]

I being a former Dealer Jeep Tech, use grease on the seals ALL (3); and junk the purolator oil filter, get a mopar and grease the seal also. That's what I did my 92' xj. No leaks and eazy oil filter changes!

[@zjty233]

greg a purolator makes the oil filters for mopar lol

[@abrahambarkhordar5572]

what kinda grease do you recommend

[@graken22]

@@abrahambarkhordar5572 any kind of wheel bearing grease is ok, better than old engine oil🙂

[@hellcat1988]

I'm about to buy a 92 cherokee that's been sitting for 5 years (been ran 2 years ago, but didn't move) so I'm watching your videos to bone up on what the common problems/leaks are. Thank you for having decent information and showing what you're doing.

[@shubamama1]

I really have been avoiding this!! It’s my next fix. Thanks for your work. Always looking forward to your next video, Tim!

[@paulnunya3429]

I love the videos, even though I have been a mechanic for years your videos help me quickly diagnose repair my 90 XJ. Saves me hours of diagnostics. Thank you. 😎👍🏼

[@KaylaMama2Two]

I appreciate you recording your mishaps and miscalculations. Ty for being human! I have had my 91 XJ for a couple of years and this is my favorite vehicle ever!

[@westvirginiaoutdoorsman4252]

My 94 had 3 o rings that needed changed. I also bent a 12mm snap on wrench in doing this! Good helpful video!

[@ProjectDanH]

Hey Tim! I did mine last August along with rear main oil pan and valve cover [thx for the vids on those]. Used a t60 in a set from advanced auto. Hammered out the bit and loosened it with a 12mm and a brakerbar accessed from the bottom. Maybe mine was easier cuz it was hot out. Anyhow I changed the seals.. got an Oem pack of 3 from the dealership. When i finished i put the T60 back together and returned the Torx set! Great job on the Vid. Keep em coming!

[@ecjohnston7162]

The correct part for ALL 3 O-Rings by FEL-PRO is ES 72962 and in stock at 5000+ O'Reilly Auto Parts stores!

[@eugnton]

So I'm seeing some comments that only two of the O-ring fit on AutoZone's website for that part

[@eugnton]

Or is AutoZone customer just a dumbass cuz both comments say the same thing

[@airic2897]

youre the real mvp

[@saintm1680]

I got that part number for a 96 GC base oring was too thin.

[@ecjohnston7162]

@@saintm1680 I don't know what to tell you but, I know it worked for me and every customer I've sold it to.

[@wyattoneable]

Good information for owners of this vehicle. Thanks for posting the information, greatly appreciated.

[@bradleybenedict7737]

Did this recently. Some tips I learned: Advance Auto Parts sells a T60 with a shorter bit than others I’ve seen. Gives a little more clearance. Using two other sockets like a pushing bolt/receiving cup pressed in a workbench vice works well to easily remove the T60 bit from the holder with no pounding. A piece of duct or black wire tape around the bit makes it fit snugly in the wrench. A large enough buddy wrench on the 12mm was enough leverage to bust mine loose. Finally, it would be hard to imagine doing this job without a ratcheting wrench. Hope that helps someone.

[@chickencutlass3712]

That's a good fix, but here's what I did on my 92 after some research. I removed that whole adapter thing, removed the dowel pin from the block, transferred the longer threaded pipe from that adapter into the block, and screwed the small filter directly to the block. Its a tight fit but the small filter will go in there. No leaks ever again in that area.

[@nj1639]

Did the same on my 2001xj today after putting it off for seven months. Bear of a job.

[@jeremycarl5353]

It is a great fix. I pulled passenger side motor mount. Rocked engine to the driver side. Actually used an old oil filter gasket due to no parts store having a gasket.

[@hachi-rokuperformancegroup3987]

I struggled with mine and did it the same way. You had a great idea with the socket if you grinded the bottom of the torques bit to get more clearance. Btw my 94 had 3 o-rings

[@ClayFick]

Thank you for the video and thank you to everyone else for the informative comments! Getting prepared to do this to my 1998 Cherokee

[@MrMoxes]

Tim...Thank you for posting this. I have putting this off for the longest time but haven't really found any material on it. I have burned up 2 starters from the oil that drips onto them. This is much needed. Maybe think about doing other quick fixes in the future. BTW Love the 2 DR XJ.

[@AlienRestoMod]

Nice, I've been trying to do the same thing with my 97 XJ but cold weather, not wanting to do it keeps me from a spotless driveway. I will take charge and complete it next weekend. Thanks for the video. Awesome.

[@llsaltll]

I swear it's like every time I'm about to fix something y'all make a video. Thanks a ton guys

[@athikerguy4life]

Glad this came out now! Will be replacing mine while my engine is out. In two weeks it would have been too late.

[@clk27us]

Cut 1/8 inch off each end of bit, gain another 1/4 inch clearance.

[@ingluv]

I also struggled to remove this adapter when i did the adapter delete. (I don't recomend the delete, but was unable to source the 3 o-ring kit.) I used the T-60 key, like you got, cut short with a 12mm, 3/8 drive socket and breaker to break it loose.

[@mattheweburns]

That's funky my 91 XJ has the exact same adapter but 180 instead of 90 degrees, same mess and embarrassment and extra quarts here n there, plus the environment... T60 as well, the guy at Sears thought I was out of my mind and I second guessed myself, nope that's a damn T60, probably the only use for this bit that I can think of. Thanks for the video, cheers!

[@gui577b]

There are 3 O-rings. The other two are on the bolt itself. This is why I recommend getting the kit from the dealership. It's like $15, but you get everything you need. It's very likely your adapter will start leaking again. Also, this job is MUCH easier if you undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine. It'll give you enough room to use an unmodified torx bit with a breaker bar. It's the perfect opportunity to replace/upgrade your engine mounts

[@mikethrapp]

gui577b felpro has an oring kit too. And maule.

[@ClayFick]

Thank you for this comment!

[@peterruppert560]

Thank you for your great detailed video. I greatly appreciate all the side notes... the unnecessary footage that so many others omit. I watched this and feel prepared to attack my jeep without any doubts. Again.... thank you so much!

[@137bob3d]

good showing to have put this together. you've done us all a service. after 10 months of losing 1 qt/week i finally dove into the job. took about an hour with $2. o-ring from NAPA. chop-saw open end of a 12mm 12-point wrench. so its handle would fit inside a 18" piece of 1/2" iron pipe. .. and the box end would go around the t-60 the arc of swing available after moving the cruise cable and some wires out of the way was only about 30 degrees. that is enough though. once loosened with the t-60 bit, the 12mm wrench and the pipe the bolt was loosened the last 10 turns or so with a 8" slip wrench. this meant bending over in that way that strains your back to be in that position so long. one thing i'd do different next time is use grease to hold the new o-ring in place. instead of just the engine oil. too much chance it could fall off during those moments getting the thread to engage when re- attaching the adapter. on checking the oil level dipstik each morning it is spot on where its been since this job. no wet puddles under the jeep either when parked. your video was the final nudge i needed to get going , even tho its winter here in colorado. and increasingly when i tell someone this story and mention viewing a u-tube how-to video others smile w/ understanding.

[@deusexmachina9173]

Thanks bleepingjeep I found my problem to my oil leak and it's my adapter and I even took pics of the leak to make sure it was that and it is. Once again thanks for providing this info and I'll fix my adapter.

[@XloMotion]

I've been avoiding doing this on my 91 but now I know how to get to the bolt. I'll do it once spring rolls around since the oil leak is keeping my XJ underbody rust free

[@derrickquintal]

I truly enjoy your videos, very clear, concise and well said information.

[@blacksails_83]

When I did mine, I used a t60 3/8 drive that was molded as one piece, not the typical two piece socket ones, then I took the threaded piece out of the adapter and installed just that piece back in the motor to eliminate the adapter, and now I just use a filter from a 2005 Toyota tundra to have the clearance from the unit frame, I'm sure there are other filters that will work I just know of that one cause I had it laying around, but now I don't have to worry about the adapter leaking ever again

[@P-MAC]

Ah man, what about the other two O-rings in there? There's two more inside there, where the bolt goes through to the engine block. Should have all 3 of these O-rings: 0.676 x 0.070 AS568 size -017, 0.859 x 0.139 AS568 size -212, and 2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230. I'd be a shame not to get all three of them replaced. I just did mine two days ago and all three rings were hardened and flat. They were all shot.

[@Fryman239]

Seen the same thing on a few other vids of this project

[@retiredppd]

That's what I was thinking.

[@pawpawtina]

SOMEONE SHOULD PIN THIS POST

[@dashone7409]

Finally someone who speaks o-ring. You are the only person I've seen listing the AS568 dash numbers for these O-rings - thanks for that!

[@brianbaker2484]

Can I get these at autozone? And if so what do I ask for?

[@jake-mv5oi]

I used the handle from my 3T floor jack to fit over my 12mm wrench and got it from the top. Threw the adapter away and bought a 3614 size oil filter and some poly motor mounts. Now my jeep uses the same oil filter as my car and it's SO much easier to change.

[@kevinthrun8262]

I drive a 2000 Cherokee Sport that I have already had the top and bottom engine gaskets replaced, yes both spots were leaking. It looks like oil filter adapter O-ring like in your video is the culprit on an oil leak I still have. I do a lot of things myself, but this is not going to one of them. I have a shop that does all my Jeep work I don't do so I'll leave this up to them. Great video.........

[@donsmith7979]

Two O-rings One for the bolt towards the torx end and the large one you replaced. Thx for the torx wrench tip.

[@jshafer51]

There are 3 o rings in that 90 degree filter adapter. One between the block and adapter and 2 on the bolt that holds the adapter to the block. The one near the head of the bolt can also cause a external oil leak. The complete 3 piece o ring kit is available online for $2 plus shipping.

[@brianbaker2484]

Got a part number or link? Thanks

[@LiquidSquidYT]

Not in the later years

[@Greenjeepclub]

How did you know I would be doing this install this weekend. :) Thank you BleepinJeep!

[@AlienRestoMod]

Nice job. I tried a long time ago to change that O Ring, I'll try again next weekend.

[@levonluther9494]

Just did this today, thanks for suggesting...motor was on a stand so was perfect timing

[@malachij7026]

Thanks for this video. Fixed this problem. I changed my rear seal 3 times and still have a leak

[@ReFlexPoison197]

Fantastic video! Got the job done in a couple hours and now no more leaks!

[@mattbartolovich8228]

I would go to a garage or dealership p*** on doing it myself!

[@kristensagar2897]

Great video...I will let my mechanic know about this...I've had just about everything else replaced that could have caused it to leak oil! Sure wish he would have tried this first!!!!!

[@bunkblount]

I did mine today and I had to remove some steering linkages off the front so I can get a cheater pipe on my wrench... then after that it popped right loose. I also replaced all 3 o rings and I didn't have any trouble getting the bolt screwed back in but I have been mechanic for 20 odd years....great video though because after all my years this jeep always has something new and weird go wrong with it...lol and it's good to get different ideas

[@elev8j10]

I remember a ratcheting wrench helped a bit on this job. After doing oil pan, rear main, valve cover, distributor gasket, and oil adapter I still have a little bit of oil still getting on bell housing. Noticed my head gasket on passenger side seeps. Never ending!

[@powerbuoy]

Thank you for the demo and the journey through the battle lol ... Well done. Not looking forward to do this on our 91.

[@flanigantravis]

I hate this BleepinJeep page but really like this guy

[@georgesantiago6005]

I have the same issue and the tool, thanks for this tip.

[@TarikVann]

Hey there, I reccently did this and found some great advice to jack the engine up from the oil pan (using a piece of wood to distribute the pressure) and then removing the enging mounting bolt and then jack it up about another 2 inches and you'll be able to get a breaker bar in there easier from the top which then allows you to use the largest breaker bar tube or cheater tube to get maximum leverage. Mine was about 1.5m long lol

[@francisbrackney2061]

Yes a large Ford oil filter works great on a 4.0 L jeep with the 90 degree oil filter adapter. Such as part number 51515 from WIX.

[@omegarugal9283]

The oil adapter ring, the dizzy ring and the dipstick tube are the main leaks in the upper part, the rear seal is also a leaky part, then the cranck case ventilation ports in teh valve cover also like to leak oil

[@annde1619]

Thank you for a great video. I had to change my crank shaft white waiting on the mopar part I did an oil change. Ouch the oil filter for the life of me would not budge filter was crumbling into a collapsed mess. Finally with a bit of wd40 got it loose. changed the filter hand tight

[@Deadbuck73]

My first change on mine I had to drive a spike through it and use a 4’pipe on it to get her to spin. Got it.

[@josephc1148]

Really great video. Great angles and lighting

[@davidsewsankar7637]

I did it with out cutting it, I fixed a box end on the shaft of the torx and then plugged it in the screw and it worked fine

[@loganwatts5743]

I replaced just about every gasket/seal on my 4.0 (rear main, oil pan, filter adapter, distributor, valve cover, etc.) and it still pissed oil everywhere. But that’s because it had bad piston rings and there was so much blowby that it was too much for the pcv valve so all the extra pressure in the crankcase that couldn’t escape through the pcv valve was forcing its way through a seal somewhere which caused it to leak A LOT. Unfortunately this was when I was in high school and I didn’t have money to rebuild it so I had to sell the jeep

[@Khorsathedark]

I think I am going to go outside and hug my TJ for not having one of these. Good video!

[@Bad_Laggy]

Lol me too

[@dougontheotherchannel3078]

very cool vid. I don't know that I would have thought to remove the tox bit from the socket.. you should make more vids!

[@rovert97]

Did this a few years ago on my 92. Thankfully mine wasn’t a torx but an actual bolt head. Slightly easier but still put up a hell of a fight.

[@dynasty_c63amg59]

What part is it the one for a 97 jeep charge would not work

[@rovert97]

@@dynasty_c63amg59 not sure, i actually went to the parts dept of a local dealership to have them look it up and bought it there, if memory serves it was under $20

[@Dayton88]

I love your videos, and jeep! Keep them coming!

[@thedeathwobblechannel6539]

my son is a Ford Ranger nut and he has a special long 12 point wrench for his driveshaft. it would be perfect for this application. has a massively long handle and a box end on each end one is 12mm and i think other is 14mm

[@jan3019]

Same here, that's where i see oil coming out, and also maybe from my old oil pressure sensor too.

[@rkh80538]

Just did mine a few weeks ago. PITA! I used a socket wrench and mistakenly backed it out so far that the back of the wrench got stuck against the unibody. It was too tight to flip the wrench switch to drive it back forward a bit. Took me 45 extra minutes.

[@shaneb1313]

GREAT INFORMATION! READ THIS ALSO! Ok, so I just took on this project today on my 2000. What I thought would be about 2 hrs. ended up taking almost 4 1/2! A few other things to add that might help you if you’re going to do this. Definitely need a 3/8 breaker bar and a 2 foot long piece of pipe.You can try to break it loose from the top, yes it seems easier but, go at it from underneath, the angle is far better and less likely to destroy the torques head. (Then you’re screwed)! You shouldn’t need a torch, just make sure the motor is at temperature! Remove the 15mm frame bolt in your way. That gave me just enough room to get the breaker bar and T-60 head on with a 12 mm socket, (barely). Then SNAP, she finally broke loose, (then finish from the top).Also, use a bit of putty or even super glue or gum to keep the T-60 on! It’ll piss you off how many times it falls out! O’Reilly had the Felpro O ring kit in stock for 4.99$. ES72962 invoice # 170-202304

[@billp3914]

It’s why I love my long reach ratcheting wrenches

[@witnesszer0]

at orillies i got the L wrenches that are torx and at lowes i got a 1/2 black iron pipe about 1 1/2 feet and used it like that to get it off really good

[@mattclark8483]

witnesszer0 i gotta try that when i do mine!

[@bleepinjeep]

witnesszer0 Right on!

[@skippywinters]

Ahah this is like an episode that’s worth watching until the end. Thanks for posting

[@jamesdeller8253]

Once i got the bolt out on my 96xj i got a 15/16 nut welded onto the end made it so much easier too do up an undo

[@jasonlessard2373]

I found the “Ford” large oil filter fits very well.

[@victortrense5640]

What filter is that exactly?

[@TearingRaven]

Did this today. Took maybe 45 minutes and I was in no rush. Pounded out the bit from a T60 socket I had, inserted into the bolt, put a 12mm wrench on it, grabbed the end of the jack handle and it popped right off. Cranking it out was the worst part. Slow with not a lot of room to work. Once out, remove and replace o rings and reinstall. Easy stuff and should have done is sooner.

[@kylequatier4408]

Thanks just ordered these

[@foch3]

On my ZJ I just removed the adapter and threaded the filter into the block, like it should be. No more leaks.

[@francocano6812]

Thank you for the video you made it really helps & explaining everything very nice

[@sabu87480]

THATS MY PROBLEM FIXED, THANKS TO YOUR VIDEO.😅

[@headlesnorseman701]

You can use part of that adapter with the male-male threads, screw it straight into the block, and use a smaller filter and just skip the 90 degree adapter altogether. I think it’s fram ph3614.

[@aarbar1599]

I believe you spoke wrong when you mentioned a tube that feeds the oil pressure sender. That "tube" is a roll pin. It's to keep the adapter oriented. Someone discovered if you remove that roll pin you can find an oil filter that fits the block withOUT the adapter... smaller filter but solves all those "O" ring problems.

[@brdavis9]

Wait! What? ―Ref' or KZbin video?

[@cameroncovington5705]

Just swapped a 99 Tj 4.0 in my 99 XJ and while yes it is a snug fit to the unibody you can still change the oil with relative ease, you only need to move the one starter wire out of your way with one hand and, then finagle the filter into place and tighten it. Idk why Jeep just didn't use this style instead of the adaptor. Yes the adaptor made oil changes easier but it was still about the same with this new motor, so my recommendation is if your 97-99 XJ motor blows try to find a 97-99 TJ motor to swap in.

[@jonahjohnson7660]

I didn’t know about this when I changed my oil and I thought it was the pan bolt because they have the copper washer replaced that and nothing thanks for the tip to get it off

[@georgemullin7772]

Great video young man vary informative indeed

[@Ozarkwild]

Great video - Thank you!

[@davidjessee7701]

Have you ever thought about relocating the oil filter to the top of engine bay? Such as they do on mercruiser.

[@petercurrie3875]

On my 95 ZJ I got rid of the 90 degree fitting all together. The oil filter will screw directly on to the engine block where that 90 degree fitting went.

[@lennydabits8216]

It fits?

[@AlwaysWatchin0.0]

I'm going to try on my 93 zj. Hope it works

[@daniellaverty1359]

Btw.. you want to put a layer of oil on the o-rings on bolt, but I cleaned the o-ring surface for the housing with brakekleen, wipes it, then installed it.. makes a better seal when it’s dry..

[@dylancox8349]

The accessibility of the bolt was fixed in later year, post 1998 obviously. More than likely in 2000 with the coil on plug newer system, without the distributor, because with my 2001 I could use a 1/2 socket wrench with theT-60.

[@bleepinjeep]

Dylan Cox That would have been SO nice!

[@hinglemckringleberry7580]

Great video.

[@dissociativecat7495]

its still tight because there's two o- rings on the bolt, for those watching this video for how to info tap on the big bolt that was threaded into the block and it'll come apart and you'll find two more o-rings you need to replace

[@NancyEisenhart]

Easy to understand why the fix was avoided. Good job! How do you know all that stuff?

[@bleepinjeep]

Nancy Eisenhart Through the ownership of 6 Jeeps.

[@CigzMuch]

Mine started leaking at a car meet. Took it out had no rtv but had some window silicone that got me home. I replaced the orings the next day. Yes it was a pits but I had a hex bolt instead of the torx

[@TheBeardedJeeper]

Wow that looks fun to get to

[@eli-bt4he]

When I did mine, I found that an L-key t-60 and a pipe for extra leverage was by far the easiest way to go. I had to order it online from a specialty tool store. Those bits can be a real pain to try to get out of the socket.

[@brdavis9]

Here you go. www.homedepot.com/p/Bondhus-T60-Torx-Long-Arm-L-Wrench-with-ProGuard-Tagged-and-Barcoded-31860/302011792

[@terryaustin1422]

That is exactly how I did mine the last wrench was a great help

[@davepenprase]

Thanks for the video sir well done

[@matthewjenkins4505]

I did mine last year 2001 XJ. There are at least 2 o rings if not 3 on there. I wish I could remember. DEFINITELY 2! (edited) Yup there are 3!!!!! Push the bolt out of the adapter. There are 2 on that shaft.) To remove the torx bit I placed the socket under my floor jack and lifted the Jeep a bit. It was the only way I could find to hold it tight enough to hit it with a punch. I was able to remove the adapter from the top. Something I do to loosen a stuck bolt is to put hard even pressure on it. Hold it for a bit. Try more than once. Think of opening a stuck jar. Someone tries and tries and a bit later it comes off with ease. I find this works with frozen bolts. Hitting or yanking on it can break the bolt.

[@keniferusxj7047]

Just put some black or gray rtv on the surface works great ...last longer then O ring.. I have done this with 2 xj’s...

[@garcia.nation4023]

Wats rvt?? And were can I buy some

[@tecuhtliingenieria2034]

Another great video from BleepinJeep. You guys have saved many of us a lot of $$$ , by the way, did your leak actually disappear ?

[@bleepinjeep]

It did! But everyone who called me out for not replacing the inner o rings were right. There are two more inside this part that I missed! I'll do an update vid but the process is the same. Thanks! - Tim

[@kurtmccarthy6733]

Great video bud. Thanks a bunch.

[@huskydog4091]

If you take the motor mount bolt out of the sides of the oil doctor is on the engine jack up the motor enough to get a socket ratchet on their breakover bar and make it really easy

[@GoatBastard]

Nice job👍👍👍

[@CrucesNomad1]

Very good video and I know videos. As for leaks, know that one drop of oil contaminates 10,000 gallons of ground water.

[@anthonyperotti151]

A T-60 3/8” impact socket...along with a 3/8” breaker (small head) will fit without having to alter a socket

[@mikemichaels1875]

Thanks this really helped me.

[@daniellaverty1359]

I have a 1 piece Cornwell T60, grinded flat sides on it to fit a 7/8 wrench, then put a longer wrench on the end of that, then used my foot to break it loose.. those things are tight..

[@RM-rj5ok]

Awesome, thank you.

[@forreststrong797]

I like the adapter on the earlier cherokees that point straight up.

[@forreststrong797]

The earlier ones also aren't torx

[@Deadbuck73]

I did this two months ago and I’m seeing almost zero leaking from my 99 on the ground. Except I am now seeing some from the differential seal on the rear. At least it ain’t motor oil!

[@johndave132]

0n my 92 cherokee instead of a torx its a bolt head, something to look for in the scrap yard if you're going to be replacing/doing this job... dude you totally missed replacing orings while you had this out. however judging by the difficulty you had reinstalling/starting the bolt the ones you missed are probably still good. I recomend you replace the torx bolt with the bolt off an older jeep so itll be easier in the future if you ever need to do this job again