The Kafkaesque Couture of Thom Browne

[@scarmeza]

i love how Bliss' videos feel like college lectures--he gets super into what he's talking about and if the vids are scripted, you really can't tell. sometimes fashion YT can feel a bit trend-grabby (ie "rating celeb outfits" or "red carpet looks I hate") which I get bc it brings in non-fashion head views in too, but ty Bliss for keeping it real for those of us who want to become more knowledgable :)

[@BlissFoster]

Wow thanks! I’m not sure I’d be able to force myself to make a celeb focused video 🤷

[@jessicamoore3163]

@@BlissFoster make one for Mary Kate’s torched Birkin , and only the torched birkin. 😂

[@inshirahsheherin1379]

I really hate how sime designers don't elaborate on their peices cause they think the audience might get bored like personally I'd really want them to share their vision

[@basicbaroque]

I look at shows like these and wonder if I could ever be that creative? Its not a sad feeling. It inspires me to do more and to get in touch with my own creativity. Very inspiring. Thanks for posting.

[@myaleeza]

Precisely what I was thinking...it's wonderful to feel inspired by couture🙂

[@befoogii1134]

It must be considered, though, that these fashion houses have large teams to aid in expanding Thom’s seed of a vision! Sharing ideas, asking for feedback, and joining forces with others will only help your ability to produce such “creative” ideas and work :)

[@pureounce.9184]

Look at early work to accurately compare yourself. Looking at the culmination of 25 years of work, plus millions of dollars, plus teams and teams of fellow unnamed co-creators and design staff isn't fair on yourself.

[@oldspicey6001]

I think this is an example of being too creative

[@nommh]

Never saw anything by Browne before. Thanks for bringing it to us with all your humour and enthusiasm! The gargoyle is so beautiful and intricate.

[@Paulxl]

Same. It was really interesting and all the pieces were incredible. And I love humor in fashion.

[@lightingnabottle6065]

Your channel is A (Series) reminder of The TRUE ART OF FASHION ! It is Very much enjoyed and appreciated. ❤❤❤❤

[@niklasjaggi7891]

Guys his patreon is so good, I’m a member for some time now and no joke, if you like fashion you will love the discord, you can just hang out, learn and talk so much. Really worth the money

[@BlissFoster]

I appreciate that, homie 😌

[@SuperJacob1989]

You received a 'like' for "it makes the hall of mirrors look like a public restroom..."

[@dorotaisqueen3650]

The way I DASHED to this video!! have been waiting for the Thom Browne video!! I absolutely adore his work, one of the first fashion designers whose visions I really fell in love with!

[@sasha_ageeva]

Literally the best! god bless you, Bliss Foster.

[@3Phase50Weight]

Not sure how I've completely ignored fashion my whole life, aside from what I personally wear. I had no idea the level of artistic expression involved. As well as the production as a whole of a runway show. It's mind-blowing, everything from the lighting, location, down to the stitching in the garments. I wanted to throw some coin your way to say thank you for filtering and presenting the best of the complicated world of fashion. So a guy like me (construction working blue collar pack a lunchbox guy) can get somewhat of an understanding of what I am looking at. I so dearly miss the punk shows I would attend when I was younger and it seems fashion, especially ERD, still has that march to the beat of their own drum mindset while also paying homage to the basics of the craft (patterns, stitching, material choice and quality) Anyways, I shall now remove my lips from your bum, and just say thank you for what your doin. Keep it up you're doing a great job

[@BlissFoster]

Wow damn! Thank you so much for supporting! Join the Patreon so we can give you perks in return! 💫💫

[@lynylyn316]

So glad you weren’t fussing about the length of time this presentation filled. Lots of chat about that and not enough about the exquisite detail. I loved this show.

[@BlissFoster]

?? I’m confused, what were people complaining about?

[@lynylyn316]

@@BlissFoster OMG! Yes. Some folks at the presentation were loving the work but wished it was shorter.

[@lynylyn316]

Are people wanting 15 minute shows?

[@BlissFoster]

@@lynylyn316 i’ve been to two shows of his so far, and I honestly have loved the length. It feels like you are getting to come to a sort of Avant garde one act play. I consider his work to be a high priority for fashion week, so I do not mind the length at all because the quality is so good. I can see where some people would be frustrated because Designers, who go overtime prevents the audience from getting to the next show. I avoid this issue by only booking myself for every other show. That way there is less stress about transportation.

[@zwart_glas]

7:57 legendary Bliss edit moment

[@BlissFoster]

🤣🤣

[@brittlebricks10]

KZbin randomly suggested the Thom Browne show to me and i watched it, transfixed. NOW I get your interpretation of the show and of his designs as a whole! LOVE IT 🎉

[@natashasauvage]

This was such a riveting analysis. Seriously, when you get all hype talking about it and you're looking right into the camera, it almost feels like *I'm* part of the conversation (although I know nowhere near enough about Thom Browne to contribute!) and the minutes flow by so seamlessly. I've slowly been meandering my way through your old videos most days after work since it gives me something to look forward to. As always, thank you for your content.

[@VioletFem]

I loved this show the first time I saw it. Your runway analysis always help me better understand the story and the world building of these shows which I really appreciate.

[@trilobyte8104]

Never been on a bliss video this early, now I get to go to Heaven

[@BlissFoster]

Welcome 2 Heaven by Marc Jacobs 💫💫

[@sergioolave7782]

@@BlissFoster the only heaven that feels like hell.

[@goblinwizard735]

Because of my generation, i can’t shake the Dumb Donald vibes from the cloche hats. I LOVE that you talked about Playtime. I find the influences that flow back and forth between cinema and fashion, and people’s individual styles, fascinating.

[@peterlevin4778]

So glad we finally have a thom Browne analysis! Excited to watch.

[@BlissFoster]

We have another episode about Thom and his runways are reviewed in 2 of our PFW episodes 💫💫

[@sariahmarier42]

I just told my brother I'll have to ditch Netflix for your patrion.

[@BlissFoster]

I appreciate that, homie 😌

[@sariahmarier42]

@BlissFoster We appreciate you! I am personally very grateful for your contributions. *Never been called home before. 😁

[@pastorprosecco6429]

Thanks Bliss!

[@BlissFoster]

Absolutely 💫💫

[@bartierbari]

such a great breakdown!

[@FemmeMatthews]

The fact that I remember you wore that same shirt in the video were you break down Rick Owens style, it's say's I'm a true fan

[@BlissFoster]

Haha I can’t even remember what I wore for that one 😅

[@morpheuslaughing]

Love the Guy Debord, Society of the Spectacle, reference with the cutouts and how it gives campy fun twist to an otherwise lifeless monochrome grey mid-century American design palette. Pigeon-core can be fun too

[@delina9735]

Love this analysis

[@aldogoegan3091]

Thank you for this. Learning more about Thom’s world is heaven.

[@BlissFoster]

Glad you enjoyed it, Aldo 💫💫

[@newsol616]

7:56 i remember seeing him post the progress of this sigmet on his story, i felt so cool seeing it in the now knowing and reconising the work he put into it prior to uploding this video

[@NeedleHair]

The production woes of Playtime are also very informative. Maybe not specifically to Mr. Browne's work, but it's worth investigating just how meticulous Tatie was with the production. This famously caused so many struggles with finances and timing that, after a series of delays and the destruction of part of his set due to financial issues, there came the moment that as one of the skyscrapers was falling down, there is a picture of him throwing his copy of the script for the film at the falling structure. I'm sure some of this comment is in English. Love your work! Thank you for sharing this passion!

[@dorotaisqueen3650]

On the topic of movies, I would absolutely love if you did a video where you talk about the movie that inspired a certain collection/ designer, how it shows in said collection and hey maybe even a lil movie review. It's very watchable what with how movie reviews and stuff are sort of the everyman content in KZbin and you deserve to make the algorithm work for you!

[@Kellychr]

Wow Bliss I am a Margiela girl through and through but this may be the best video you've ever done

[@lauramason5667]

I love Thom's work because it's foundation is American Prep. A friend worked for an company that made TB's clothing in Queens to be exact and said he was a stickler for quality craftsmanship . High standards impress me. In some ways, Libertine has prep roots also. Please do a video on on his line also.

[@nijoodubey1157]

i love your storytelling bliss...thank you

[@BlissFoster]

You’re so welcome! I’m glad it’s been useful for you

[@sergioolave7782]

I love when designers take inspiration from movies, what are your favorite collection inspired by movies?

[@cinemaocd1752]

I think there were definitely some references to the Billy Wilder movie The Apartment in Thom's early shows. The Apartment is about an office worker in the 1950s and at the beginning of the film there is this giant office with hundreds of desks and we see all of men coming into work in their identical suits, identical desks etc. It was a visual Wilder used over and over in his films, starting with Sunset Boulevard. Mad Men ripped it off all the dang time!

[@stevezytveld6585]

What a lovely essay - thank you. - cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

[@BlissFoster]

Always good to hear from ya, Cathy

[@stevezytveld6585]

@@BlissFoster Back at ya, Doll. Always informative.

[@DobleDenyer]

me gustó mucho cómo lo explicaste, estuvo muy bello :)

[@karstenbonnaire2706]

Play time is the poster child movie of the Situationalists movement. A movement that is probably more relevant now than back then. It’s a movement often referenced in fashion. Malcom McLaren was part of it.

[@monsieurgolem3392]

Tati, yes!

[@minooaid5084]

It reminded me of Waiting for Godot a play by Samuel Beckett.

[@mikelobrien]

Can't wait to watch Playtime. And I love Browne's use of the color gray! I think the difference between the top designers of USA and France is history based. Europe was ruled by monarchies (think each ruler outdoing the other in the arts, with their palaces, fashions, etc.), whereas the United States prided/s itself with being democratic and "of the people." Therefore, we're not into opulence and majesty as much as the Europeans were/are. Browne's theatrical shows must be a real crowd pleaser in France!

[@isaackasay5629]

Also I’d like to add, for the bell looks, the model is wearing chipped gold lipstick. This could possibly be to resemble how a bell can rust and chip over time. I could very possibly be wrong, but it seems likely

[@inkumoon515]

OK, quick point on the American couturier. One name: Ralph rucci. Imo the ultimate purist in the craft of haute couture. He was the first American to show couture in the early 2000s and did it in the traditional way: by being officially sponsored/ referred into the chamber of haute couture by an existing member (he was referred by stephane rolland who at the time was helming the haute couture at jean louis scherrer).

[@BlissFoster]

Yup, awesome point. Rucci is our underrated couture hero in the states 💫💫

[@inkumoon515]

@BlissFoster truly one of my favorites. Although he has this obsession with Mishima (the imperial Japanese far right poet during ww2 who died by seppuku) which kinda irks me but in terms of technique alone he's truly singular

[@perrilewis180]

14:55 Jotaro p4. Like white with gold sea themes

[@delarue2233]

Hi! Also, with the trainstation setting in particular, there could be a reference to the play Einstein on the Beach by Bob Wilson or his blwhole body of work. Particularly, BW is known for his mise en scene, which leans heavily on the greyscale with a pop of color aesthetic. + with regards to the conformity theme, Bob Wilson works a lot with monotony, gettin his actors to perform with really specific intonations!

[@sarahwatts7152]

I just love the bells on the shoes. The idea that the bells would cut through/over the sounds of people shifting in their seats and whispering at one another is so appealing. (Though I'm realizing now - was there music playing over the show, and did it play over the sound of the bell shoes?)

[@nigelseaton8367]

Now, I thought they were about to board a steam ship. There seems to be a nautical aspect( ropes, birds,( I thought I saw seagulls), the bells)or least I thought so. Even the models all in different shades of grey gave off a sort of mist of fog that you would expect of people waiting to board their luxury liner of a long ago time. Thom Browne's fashion vibe not unlike Gaultier's seems too me to borrow from the art scene that was called DaDa, a very free, decadent, otherworldly style, where anything goes.Oh, the bells also reminded me of bells used to alert in coming ships to the dock. All in all "Lets rock the bells", AbsolutelyFabulous🎉🎉🎉!

[@davidpachecogarcia]

The American commentary was funny. We basically take something and rework it to make it easier for us. Not having a lot of history compared to these fashion powerhouse countries does give an attitude of “well we can basically try anything.”

[@HipsterChainsaw]

I hope that Thom makes the freedom fries joke as often as I do.

[@jessicamoore3163]

I feel like, and not just because of the pidgeon connection that JW Anderson could do something similar to this. Or even Loewe with their animal motifs

[@tytustuecki8616]

Could the bridal look represent the steam thats left after the train drives off?

[@MarzioMassari]

The author is sensational in the humor he creates and in the brilliant, brilliant (did I say brilliant?) analysis but he could shorten his armpit hair if he uses a tank top

[@oliviajohnson7305]

Beautiful baritone voice --- CORRECT.

[@consuelobruton9412]

Hey I just read on Financial Times Weekend issue August 26-27, 2023 (The Art of Fashion) “Booker Prize shortlisted author Brandon Taylor..” article mentions that Taylor “.. enjoys the KZbin videos of style commentator Bliss Foster”..

[@hayleyj9656]

Dude, they aren't sitting back stage. The audience is in THE WINGS! You know, like the pigeons.

[@ambergris5705]

Suits are very weird. Nothing looks as normal and as unusual as a suit. They're normality, banality even, and yet they are so effective at both totalitarianism and surrealism. They're so complicated, and yet so simple. They can look like extensions of yourself, and artificiality in cloth. They're really fun, and frustratingly austere. They're demure and flamboyant. They represent restraint and conservatism, but also excess and progress. They find inspiration in exaggerating human proportions, and at the same time they hide the body like few garments do. They can be twisted to say anything you want, and Thom Browne demonstrates this brilliantly here.

[@fatboyhoover]

I like the top you’re wearing in this episode. Is this your own design or which brand is that?

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks! It’s a Rick Owens top 💫💫

[@umyum1895]

wait was thats clutch in the last look a passenger carriage.

[@royceharvey5894]

Or Vogue editing the “interview” to cut to Thome talking about what he’s gonna do when he leaves the office. Vogue and other “fashion focused” publications don’t care about explaining/geeking out over the details of garments. I wish more designers did something like Galliano and just put out a podcast or made their show notes more public.

[@derekdzinich8690]

To take your French bell joke ever further - oftentimes they refer to “la clochette” meaning a smaller bell which “rings” rather than “tolls.” For example “on a tiré la clochette!” Know what sounds like “clochette”? Cloche hat 🤠

[@naomiwilliams7510]

Love the channel, is there a one-off donation link rather than the subscription?

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks so much, Naomi 🦾 you can sign up for the Patreon and then cancel 🤷 but you should give the discord a look before you cancel, it’s great 💫💫

[@thefederation2388]

please review the fw 24 show

[@lululola8080]

Question for you Bliss or for anyone else that can answer: what is the difference or where is the line between referencing something and copying somebody's work? Thank you.

[@matthewbuneta7579]

Je t’aime!

[@TiamattheDestroyerofWorlds]

I wonder if Thom Browne loves the movie Brazil?

[@drunk1998]

Thom is the best after Alexander, Franco and Husseyn

[@blaquecat]

What’s missing a rendition of lady liberty to really bring home from paris to america

[@i123456987654]

Wait, you went to this fashion show in NYC?

[@i123456987654]

Which luxury store did you used to work for?

[@ridethedragon836]

You look like Lestat Lioncourt cousin

[@teddybearisms2505]

How are these people not the villains in the Hunger Games?

[@i123456987654]

Did you go to school for fashion? Did you major in fashion?

[@Aluenvey]

Has someone made the joke about the outfit designer creating bellheads? :/

[@HlumeloMatiwane]

''It's the only movie I've ever seen where dialogue truly does not matter.'' ... oh wow The Holy Mountain erasure.

[@BlissFoster]

😂🤣 good point

[@humanthetooth]

Why do so many people wear sunglasses to runway shows (as Anna Wintour infamously does)? Doesn't it obscure the clothes slightly? I would imagine if youre there in person you want the best view possible.

[@BlissFoster]

Some people wear them bc they’re trying to avoid speaking to people. Anna is wearing them for this reason. She’s there to focus on the clothes, not have impromptu meetings with strangers. But the vast majority of folks wear them bc they feel self concious. When you feel like you don’t belong somewhere, others can see that most in your eyes, so people cover them up.

[@umyum1895]

how did videogamedunkey review playtime before you bliss....alright your done pal gimme your badge and keys

[@KURUMIPRO]

hi

[@icaprone1]

France and the US are not all that far apart especially concerning the 19th century. Consider time Jefferson put in visiting France following the revolution. And consider time put in by Simone Beauvoir and Benito Juarez studying the recently born democracies in the US and Europe. I believe we need to take democracy as the keystone to the modern. And machines like the train as part and parcel of modernity. That's all

[@aomeng342]

felt like a show about global warming

[@SuarezAtoniomanuel]

.

[@vinayakcroy]

Bliss, is it upsetting to you the lack of viewership your content gets? It’s obviously so well done and informative, yet you’d think an industry as large as fashion would get more eyes on it. Do you chalk this up to the general consumer not being astute on art, or rather that you haven’t marketed yourself to be outwardly growing constantly rather than a core audience? I’d probably say the latter than the first.

[@firstnamelastname4778]

Why use your hands so much

[@jacobalanis2271]

R u antiprophet?😭😭

[@trilobyte8104]

Never been on a bliss video this early, now I get to go to Heaven