A Review of Every Schiaparelli Runway Show

Analysis and review of Daniel Roseberry's work at Schiaparelli.
If you love the channel, support on Patreon: / blissfoster
Follow me on IG: / blissfoster
Follow me on Twitter: / blissfoster
#Danielroseberry #schiaparelli #bellahadid #bellahadidrunway #kimkardashian

[@0.0056]

Roseberry’s Schiaparelli is what I imagined when I thought of fashion when I was little

[@Mispapelicos]

Amen to that Soph

[@ab22jp]

Yes!

[@seeexy]

now i think that is!

[@inkumoon515]

There are actually two references that I wish were emphasized in this video especially with his two most recent couture collections: the first is YSL .Ysl frequented inspiration from Elsa in many of his works and that inspiration is being reused by daniel in his work. The abs dress with the pink bow is ofc a. A reference to the ysl breastplate with Claude lalane, but also a reference to of the most iconic ysl creations ever: the paris dress from his 1983 fall couture collection. Also the silver abs jacket edged with rococo gold scrolls was a reference to a ysl jacket from 1978 which itself was a reference to a schiaparelli in 1938. A lot of cross referencing between those two.

[@inkumoon515]

The second Is Jean cocteau (whom was also a frequent source of inspiration for YSL. The one I remember most is a silk dinner jacket that he did for the couture in 1980. There's this great video of polly mellen losing her shit watching it come down the runway). Talking about his most recent couture, you showed a reference to elsa that had a flower/vase motif right? Welp that was actually in collaboration with Jean cocteau. Cocteau, along with Dali and Man Ray were one of elsa's closest collaborators and did a big part in the schiaparelli codes of displacement. But while dali played with inanimate objects or in the lobster dress, food; cocteau played with images regarding the body. Which is why I think the facial expression bags and bodily feature accessories make so much sense. Other than the vase dress one of his most famous collaborations with schiaparelli was a jacket featuring a woman's torso with her hair swept to the side in a way that the entire sleeve of one side of the jacket would look like hair (and the I think this is where the hair print came into motion for his first rtw as well)

[@BlissFoster]

Great comment! You’re always a wealth of info, homie. I appreciate you consistently sharing knowledge with us 💫💫

[@sihamstakeon3445]

Where did you get your knowledge? I’d like to further educate myself

[@Mispapelicos]

How very interesting! 🌹

[@Mdvanii]

Les Yeux d?Elsa is about Elsa Triolet, a poem written by her lover Louis Aragon,writer and poet ... it has NOTHING to do with Schiaparelli. Mr YSL had a passion for poetry and his homage was to the famous Aragon poem.

[@Maddame4]

“Concerning, but cool.” Sir, you just got yourself a meme template.

[@Melanie-ASL]

I really admire his ability to create a coherent dialogue with Elsa’s creations. It’s refreshing to see the essence of Schiaparelli still present after so many years. I believe the ant suit may take reference in Dali’s work (and Buñuel’s Chien Andalou too). And some of the matador looks and jewelry also remind me a lot of Dada and Surrealism collages, as well as the concept of cadavre exquis.

[@sihamstakeon3445]

Elsa vs. Gabi = Elsa every time. Her vision was way ahead of her times and although comparing 2 creatives is not very accurate but to me personally I find Elsa to be more experimental and unconventional and that’s why I love fashion itfp

[@giuliad223]

I would also choose Elsa but I feel like we all look over Chanel's work because while Elsa's ideals are still ahead now, Chanel's work is very much "normal" today, but the point is, it wasn't when she was doing it. She pretty much invented today's fashion on a very radical, base level.

[@theprousteffect9717]

It doesn't make much sense to compare their work, they're both masters of their own different universes.

[@SuperMiniHearts]

Okay so the Lung necklace. I at first, I thought they were the roots of trees, but the cast of the lungs makes so much sense! I see it more literally as depicting the roots of the tree of life, and as the bust of a woman is exposed, it also depicts Mother Arrete’s lungs giving the breathe of life, in the form of trees producing oxygen. And also that woman are representative of Mother Earth, and as we all have lungs, we are all Mother Earth

[@BlissFoster]

Great thought. I don’t think you should dismiss the roots interpretation. Symbolism can be multiple things if we can back them up with good interpretation! And that’s what you’ve done! Thanks so much, Dominique!

[@SuperMiniHearts]

@@BlissFoster Oh wow, thank you! I love your videos and thoughts on the many nuisances in fashion, so I appreciate that!🤍

[@hannascales13]

i thought they were roots too! you make an awesome connection there

[@SuperMiniHearts]

@@hannascales13 Oh thank you, and yea, I see it as roots, when I first saw it, I thought it was INCREDIBLE I couldn’t believe how they were able to make that🤌🏾🤌🏾🤯

[@laramurieltzvir80]

All the Schiaparelliers SHOCKINGLY SCREAMING right now. Great video

[@Bei.Incubi.Omnus.]

The masks, the bowler hats, the teeth, the spine and rib cage dress?! Breast plates?! Reverences to Magritte and Dali? Yes, please and thank you. Could I wear it? Maybe not. But, I’m happy to look. And look. And look. I can’t take my eyes off of it. Does the lobster dress come with an epipen too though? You’re the best. I’m so amazed by your ability to pack so much information in such a short video because I never ever get bored and you hold my attention. I wish you were my art history teacher. Seriously.

[@stateyourthesis]

So happy her house is getting the recognition it deserves. Elsa was an amazing designer

[@juliansinclair3799]

Jean paul gaultier did jeans in couture a bunch of times

[@inkumoon515]

Yeah...off the top of my head I'm remembering his 1999 couture where he did a denim evening gown with a white ostrich feather trim but I know he used jeans/denim multiple times after that

[@morganlorenzo3859]

Spectacular! Your best so far. Exquisitely thoughtful fashion commentary.

[@NatRealActual]

all possible Magritte references from this vid (to my knowledge) : 8:12 the use of a birdcage as a shape of the perfume bottle (modeled after a human torso) could be a reference the the painting "The Therapist". 13:51 Im just going to use this as my "Magritte also liked clouds" general comparison there are too many paintings I could compare but I think thematically I will go with "High Society" for also having a head in the clouds vibe 17:58 While you point out "false mirror" I see the standalone eye as closest to "Portrait" where an eye sits in a pancake. Magritte also did a ton of paintings with eyes, a nose and mouth existing without a face towards the end of his career most notably "The Age of Enlightenment" has a similar blue eye. 19:09 the use of gold for eyes nose and mouth makes me think of the statue "The White Race" 20:28 Yea bowler hat was a Magritte signature 20:41 The jacket is very similar to one seen in the painting "Deep Waters" but that may be a coincidence, most notably the 4 black buttons 20:48 I see the nipples on the garment itself a reference to "The Philosophy in the Bedroom" 22:27 eggs are also a common object in Magritte's work most well known being "Elective Affirmatives" but this may be a stretch 24:13 gold doves remind me of the gold statue "The Natural Graces" and doves were also common in Magritte's work often in the form of a cut out of a background of clouds 27:09 this flower is incredibly similar to "The Tomb of the Wrestlers", and equally oversized

[@BlissFoster]

Brilliant!! Thank you, Neil!!

[@lerengel2730]

I m an artist on a budget, therefor I can’t currently make a donation on your Patrion. But I totally feel I should as I recognize your tremendous effort, time and talent spend on these video’s. I just wanted share how wonderful your channel is and how much I appreciate your gifted analytic ‘eye’. really

[@emmad4494]

Love how your videos dont waste time, its just efficiently delivered well thought out commentary

[@peterwaldmuller7270]

Finally I can explain my friends that schiaparelli isn't whack😭😭

[@peterwaldmuller7270]

@@TheLily97232 Well, I think you and I see it that way because we know what's behind, what it means, and understand the beauty of it, because it's something, speaking of me, I confront myself everyday. The Sports-Guy or the Car enthusiast might not feel the same about a woman wearing a dress with abs on it, as we do.

[@vitoriar8753]

this video is so thoroughly informing yet entertaining, i'm seriously in love with your work

[@marcusevans119]

Woooow thank you so much for this! This is so interesting would love to see a video about the McQueen house after his death, I kind of gave up on the house after his passing but would be so keen to learn about why it was such a change

[@dwoww]

i am so with you, the 2009-2010 shows like made me fall in love with couture when i was a teenager and then after he passed, i gave up after sarah's bee-inspired show ):

[@astrogallus]

This is a great video. Schiaparelli has always been my favorite and now Roseberry have lifted the house back to the heights! Wonderful video, and your enthusiasm is contagious.

[@PWaves]

Literally just fell in love with this brand

[@alexcollins71090]

Commenting before I watch just to say thank you!!! I'm loving everything from Schiaparelli and just found out about the house like a month ago. It's such a fascinating story and all of the looks are unbeatable!! Will comment later with my thoughts after I finish watching

[@erikhesselman3676]

I love how influences from Belgian designers like Margiela can fit seamlessly in the campy Schiaparelli codes. Basically the reverse effect of Dada's critique of nonsensical modernity birthing Surrealism - conscious and subconscious combined intentionally. Perhaps Margiela is the Dada to Elsa's Surrealism. So different yet both are cerebral and gratifying for those who take a second look. The faces in the broderie anglaise were hidden to me until now, and I never knew about Vionnet's thumbprint label. Little details like that are the humanity of fashion. Thank you for bringing them to light. It's also interesting to see how Roseberry has grown and matured at Schiaparelli, where many designers first collection for a house is often their most holistic. His most recent is his strongest by far. Great video!

[@londekandukuda3422]

so upset that I wasn't the first to think of teeth jewelry :( I had several teeth taken out when I got braces and suggested to my family that I would make necklaces for everyone but they were disgusted. What I didn't think to do was to have my teeth coated in gold- what is wrong with me? I will bequeath golden teeth in my Will, I wish I could see their faces when they get them.

[@nenee009]

Teeth jewelry has been a thing for centuries lol just go for it 🤗

[@VsFashionHolic]

Alexandre Vauthier did Jeans in his Couture 2017 Spring Collection

[@dwoww]

ooop, you beat me to it 😅

[@_hue.and.me15]

thank you for this video. you make fashion easier to understand. thank you for the work you do.

[@nickdaring]

Wonderful breakdown!

[@pattersonmendiola]

Bliss, your channel is like a full PhD in fashion history 🤩🤩🤩🤩

[@Anastasiya-z9s]

wow! I just wanted to say that I soo like the way you look and I really like the way you speak and emphasize information. thank youuu

[@BlissFoster]

You are so welcome! 💫💫 I’m glad it was useful for you

[@marln2157]

mannn, i love you! not even finished, but i am just so amazed by your energy and skill. thank you thank you thank you! i am learning a LOT from you!

[@2b-coeur]

loving the extra Energy this video {legitimately i am watching this to cheer up & it is very much working} i can't with the credits "ghost" "ghost 2" "ghost consultant" 22:29 mo-teeth....

[@kiki.arielscrystalco]

Amazing analysis.👏 Thankyou Bliss!✌

[@SmellTheRainb0w]

Thank you so much for taking your time doing this. It really helps me understand the deeper meanings of what we see in clothings. And salvator dali, what an icon. Imagine working with him.

[@maribaka93]

Im in love with this chanel!!! I learn so much with your videos

[@ntsakomathebula4840]

Shiaparelli seemed like she had fun making these Auntie kits. I like this.

[@KatieKnipper]

The headband/earrings dress reminds me of the dress Mugler made (I think in 98) with fabric draped from a model’s nipple piercings. Totally different vibe but cool to see clothing that isn’t suspended from the shoulders or waist!

[@selena___]

omg this is soo good! Daniel is crazy talented yet so young

[@lailarose5543]

Bliss’s commentary is so relatable and comical, much appreciated 🤝✨

[@L.A.L.S.]

Love it 💖 I'm so glad i found this channel and now im bingewatching some videos.

[@BlissFoster]

Welcome in! Let me know what resonates with you

[@L.A.L.S.]

Thanks for the response! All the content is great but I like this reviews and analysis. Hope to see a Guo Pei video

[@ebd22]

love your video!!! amazing research!

[@aldogoegan3091]

Pure magic… thank you for summarizing all of this

[@riaelise8910]

This video is sooo good. Omg. Just in the morning I watcjed a video about surrealist art so this video is a great end to the day

[@margoriazantseva4471]

Thank you for bringing my attention to this designer. Last year i've been more into revising fashion from 2000s and not paying attention to what's going on now. Daniel Roseberry is doing a very interesting job. From one side it is fairly intellectual and very bold, from the other he's juggling these surrealist cliches like there's no tomorrow. No doubt that people will start being tired of it at a certain point. p.s. Hopefully, the brand will keep those "totems" in their archives for always and won't throw it into landfills. Such a wasteful idea :(

[@BlissFoster]

I don’t believe brands throw away stuff like that. My guess is it’s going in the archives.

[@capucnechaussonpassion14]

I've seen an amazing exhibition of all of her work at the mad museum in Paris, i hope that it's going to tour for other people to see because it was just so, so good.

[@pastpresentcouture4754]

I love how informative your videos are and how unique your editing is! Thank you for all of this amazing information and breaking down these pieces of art.

[@zzzzzz-ti2rv]

YES thank you I needed this distraction angel

[@nathanrobinson3208]

Been waiting to watch this until I could fully sit and watch because I knew you were gonna go in hard. Every detail that Rosenberry covers is exquisite. His Man Ray references from the surrealist motif are undeniable too. Also if yall don't know the artist Kay Sage, please look into her. As another present day camp reference, do you ever watch Ru Paul's Drag Race? The fashion references (on the show and in drag in general) to Schiaparelli, especially Rosenburg, are RAMPANT. For me, personally, love it. It drives home the idea art is feeding fashion and fashion is feeding art. Thank you Bliss!

[@vainoo55]

love these videos, im trying to understand these shows and get more into fashion, helps alot!

[@lindahughes2289]

AWESOME ! THANKS SO MUCH, WELL DONE SIR !!!

[@takinn9462]

Omg I was waiting for thissss

[@ebd22]

Adele in custom Schiaparelli Haute Couture...I'm dying!!!!! One of the best look I ever saw I think!

[@timshearer5589]

omg the meme doctor guy in panning-watermark across the chanel-nazi video-passage got me lol great contemporary commentary hehe, what a legen, bliss

[@dimitrasoroga]

you have made an amazing video! congratulations!!

[@ALMM.andallopez]

Absolutely Brilliant 🤍

[@d.c.7285]

This video was amazing!

[@bautistasardi]

Your passion for Schiaparelli's work is so evident. I love it. This may be one of my favourite videos of yours, Bliss.

[@AgathaJaneID]

I'll never forget being broke and paying for a NARS Schiaparelli hot pink lipstick. Wait I'm still broke

[@vincentminor1638]

Bliss, I cam across this vlog today and thought you would like the vast amoumt of information in this interview. Vlog: The Fashion Archive. Title: Walter Van Beirendonck discusses The Antwerp 6, Margiela, Virgil Abloh & More. Ifound out loads of info I did not know. Keep up the great work. Bear hugs from Arizona.

[@BlissFoster]

Yeah! TFA crushed that interview 🦾

[@zebi000]

You're really one of the best fashion KZbinr out there

[@hannascales13]

This was such a fantastic video; i laughed & learned so much! Bliss you’re killing it!

[@annaschultz2424]

Thank you so much, really enjoyed this !

[@hysteric4u]

i love your intensity. very scorpio. following. love the video too. xx

[@hysteric4u]

following = subscribed. i thought i was on insta ha

[@alfiea9508]

GREAT VIDEO! Just wanted to say something about the bullfighter hat: you are right it doesnt look like one because it's actally a reference to the Cordovan Hat, which is very traditional and feels very flamenco, hence I think people outside Spain just mix it and use it as a bullfighter costume :)

[@lazaromurad322]

what a GREAT WORK in following Elsa´s designs, I believe she would very much approve of Daniel´s work fr! something more rare and rare to watch sadly

[@andrewlummus6358]

god that (your) suit is everything

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks 😊 I love this thing. It’s from before Daniel Lee took over at BV so it was insanely cheap, and it fit perfectly without being tailored 😌

[@andrewlummus6358]

@@BlissFoster jeez, got to look for myself. ideal for the winter i bet.

[@alexcollins71090]

Salvador really was serving us Boston lobster rolls as high fashion in the 30's and 40's. Amazing. Also I paused a TON during this video and so was able to look at the looks before you broke them down. Definitely did not pick up on the ANT SUIT lolololol. Also had no idea about Chanel!! I had seen the shocking pink earring dress dress but did not catch it was actually a headpiece - brilliant. So glad I watched this video, I feel well prepared for the next Schiaparelli collection from Mr. Roseberry. I particularly love how jewelry is elevated and respected as an equal contributor to looks and all the references to the human body. Just... not enough words to describe how much I love Schiaparelli. Quintessential surreal, queer, camp, art, inspired, historically relevant and future-forward human haute couture.

[@candybox5360]

Bravo or Brava, what's ever your poison, to you Bliss. This has been a real tour de force and the best thing I've seen ( or heard) from you. Ever. See what I said about emotional hit? You have it for ES and DR. Here are your flowers. 🌹🌹🌹

[@alexandre724]

The golden toe boots are a need

[@Ramses060784]

Thanks! I loved your video

[@BlissFoster]

Hi Joseph! So sorry, I"m just now seeing that you gave Super Thanks (it won't show me the ST on mobile for some reason). Truly appreciate you :)

[@Ramses060784]

@@BlissFoster new subscriber 👍

[@BlissFoster]

@@Ramses060784 I appreciate that! As you go through other videos, I’d love to hear your thoughts about what you see 💫💫

[@Ramses060784]

@@BlissFoster I hope you can pay a bit attention to Vivetta, Marni, yohji yamamoto. Love your videos and your vibes 👍

[@ilyaassait9250]

This was a really great video

[@meeshyeesh1416]

youre the best. joining Patreon.

[@BlissFoster]

That means a lot to me 🙏🙏

[@sarafernandez4920]

I loved this, very interesting research! Thank you

[@dylanmayss]

i dont even remember 100k happening congrats bliss

[@kelly-tx8oc]

AMAZING AS ALWAYS

[@cinemaocd1752]

Re: Dali's notion of pairing lobster with mayonaise. We have the Salvadore Dali cookbook which is full of nightmarish food that is unmakable and lots of strange photo collages and art. Yum!

[@rajvipawar6728]

love your videos ty

[@romanikkoralph1553]

Lagerfeld used denim in one of his couture collections for Chanel

[@reallifenoah3728]

don’t stop bliss your creating 1 of 1 content. you have so many students lol

[@blazinbytes9099]

Loving the hair 😩♥️

[@hideouscreature97]

I might be super very wrong about it since I'm pretty new to all this, but I automatically connected that lung necklace to the ongoing pandemic. Maybe like how central and precious that organ has become to us during the last year and a half, since they're a very elaborate centerpiece on otherwise quite minimal look. On the other hand it might be just me reading in a personal trauma, idk

[@BlissFoster]

Not wrong at all, that’s a great point!

[@ambcook]

I know this video is 2 years old but it's worth mentioning re:the rivalry thing... Coco Chanel is the designer who first popularized the suntan, she sold suntan powder in her boutiques. So maybe the tan lines dress is making fun of Chanel trying to sell a tan lol

[@brandon400]

Great video!

[@moynkey]

Thank you for this!!

[@ramekon]

Truly outstanding!

[@sophiesmyth9809]

Exquisite effort my dude

[@Visdemhvemduer]

Fashion needs designers like Roseberry at Schiaparelli and shows like these to stay alive against fast fashion. I used to look forward to see shows each seasons but now with luxury brands dumbing down the creativity for the sake of sales and numbers, I just don't care anymore.

[@Mdvanii]

In France, langouste (crawfish about 2 -3 inches in size used in Creole cooking a lot) and homard (common lobster, 2 to 3 pounds) are two different types of crustaceans. Both are eaten traditionally in France with mayonnaise. The dress is suppose to represent a langouste, and Dali wanted to smear he dress in mayonnaise.

[@immabigkidnow1]

It’s September but bliss said it’s July, so it’s now July...

[@BlissFoster]

The editing for this took…a while 😅

[@viviansaravanan7531]

Suddenly the effect Chanel No. 5 has on a lot of people makes sense.

[@goodgirlessie444]

Obsessed w your channel. Supporting now! $$$$

[@BlissFoster]

🙏🙏

[@lazaromurad322]

25:07 Its campy! LOL

[@BrideofJesuChristo2]

Prove me wrong. The lobster dress = thc inspired

[@ilyaassait9250]

Could you make a in depth video of the fashion design process

[@everpisceswen]

Thanks!

[@BlissFoster]

Hi Wenwen! So sorry, I"m just now seeing that you gave Super Thanks (it won't show me the ST on mobile for some reason). Truly appreciate you :)

[@mikamori4610]

Lol! I have the Schiaparelli SS22 Denim Trompe L’oeil Conical Breat Denim Jacket and Jeans RTW

[@Evasofia2508]

Thank you, i learned so much

[@heydarovelmar]

Amazing! 🖤

[@kylahowo]

"I can't include that" *includes it*

[@SunnyDallasRealtor]

Absolute WOW 🤩

[@valeriobuda7409]

it's... so artisticly beautiful

[@alexdesa8676]

about jeans in couture: Galliano did it for his first show at Margiela!

[@rodrigo9345]

Karl showed denim/jeans in the Chanel Spring/Summer 2011 Haute Couture show… back when Chanel was better!