The Rise and Rise of Thom Browne

Thom Browne, now having shown their first couture show, has really dominated the creative menswear space every season for the last twenty years. But did you know that he, on more than one occasion, was only days away from bankruptcy? In fact, it really was Kpop, specifically G-Dragon featuring Jennie from BlackPink, that saved the company from going under, growing the company across Asia into a financially secure business. Now, they boast millions in sales and fifty stores worldwide and are considered one of the strongest brands in the industry.
Beauty Channel: / @underskinyt
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch

[@casper7319]

You bring up such a great point about show vs retail. I love the Thom Brown shows but our local boutique has like 25-30 staples. They make such beautiful clothes for the Met Gala, but a lot of that creativity isn't really translating into the base silhouette. He's a superior brander, and the house has such identifiable coding, but i would love to see them take a bigger retail risk

[@understitchYT]

Or even just bring that creativity into the retail in general. I don’t necessarily need to see things that won’t sell, but why is it that it’s just a total disconnect?

[@ladyjunon6305]

It's interesting that despite his affluent background, he started his business with quite minimal operations. It be interesting if Thom Browne pulled a "Comme des Garçons" where he does his extravagant runway collections accompanied with a less prohibitive, but still fashion focused version of that collection for stores. That way, customers can still get a taste of the runway craftsmanship. Also, I wonder if the introduction of Couture collections is going to affect the extravagance put into his regular runway collections.

[@understitchYT]

I think that is pretty much what they do now, the same patterns will come through into the stores at a watered down level, but it’s just nowhere near the same scale as the fashion shows

[@zdoriksandorik]

I did NOT expect to hear about GD in this video! As a person who got into kpop in 2013 when GD was the God, you almost always hear more about his relationship with chanel and chrome hearts, but oh my god the impact he had by bringing thom browne into the kpop styling. Shinee's everybody suiting was nothing short of revolutionary for that time. Such an excellent video!

[@understitchYT]

He really was, he completely dominated then, and it’s really nice that he has kept his fashion up well after hes not as famous any more (and his english got so significantly better too, have you heard him talk about fashion?) so it seems like that whole side was really genuine from the start and I love that

[@neoncat7809]

Ok Thom Browne is a LEGEND and happy you posted two of my fav designers, so you made my day better!

[@understitchYT]

I’m glad you have watched both!

[@P0SHED]

Thom Browne is the one fashion show, that Im always so excited to watch! Being a lover of men’s wear, this fusion of fashion, art and whimsy - is epic! And I’m very much in love with the pieces that I own.

[@understitchYT]

Please tell me you have the dog bag, its so iconic

[@paddyolten4031]

You won't go to all 50 stores just to see the looks in one season 😂. It's still hard for me to understand the pricing of Thom Browne but I learnt a lot from this video so thank you!

[@understitchYT]

I didn’t say I would succeed in going to all 50 😂, but I think it would make for an interesting experience that I would definitely try, especially if I was in Seoul

[@jeanclaudesnyc]

it's the best!

[@ldr580]

FIRST! Thom Browne is one of my fav designers

[@understitchYT]

Honestly same, such an iconic brand, Im so thrilled to get to tell their story

[@ldr580]

@@understitchYTCould you do Isaac Mizrahi ? should be interesting

[@emmaramirez4330]

I found it fascinating how he was willing to give up just so much equity in exchange in for keeping creative control. I think it really speaks to where his values are, in light of his affluent upbringing. I know a lot of founders, in fashion and elsewhere, struggle with giving up equity easily. Glad to see how well it paid off.

[@understitchYT]

I agree, it mustve been a very hard thing to stick to with everyone telling him that his business was sure to fail if he didnt give up his creative control, but its amazing how he stuck to it and found a financier that genuinely could find an audience for his work

[@Le_taha]

i love how you release videos about these brands just after they release a new collection , love the consistency keep it up

[@understitchYT]

I figure its the time most people are interested in them 🤷‍♂️

[@FlyingSnow1509]

Uhh G Dragon and Thom Browne... iconics

[@understitchYT]

Such an era

[@dickwintered]

I love thom Browne and it's aesthetic but it is so ridiculously expensive.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah the price point is so hard to swallow

[@LISAGUSTAFSSON3]

Thank you! I learn so much from your videos! X

[@understitchYT]

I'm so glad! 🥰

[@janielljohnson206]

so happy you did this I loved the custom chef coat in "The bear"

[@understitchYT]

Talent. Incredible. Legend.

[@princessmonokae]

Thank for the two uploads. You spoil us ❤

[@understitchYT]

Had to be done 🙌

[@isitbees]

It would be super interesting to see a video dedicated entirely to the timeline of the relationship between luxury fashion brands and kpop after seeing the portion you spoke on GD and mentioned CL

[@understitchYT]

I think I would annoy a lot of fans and brands with that video 😂

[@isitbees]

@@understitchYT that is a very high possibility😂

[@jonathans8892]

exactly the video I was going to request next this is one of my new favorite channels appreciate you alot

[@understitchYT]

Then you’re either extremely lucky or extremely smart

[@williamman7304]

Thom Browne runway is always outstanding! The trippy theatrical stage and outfit from the runway is very different with the unified readymade white shirts and grey suits. As if the runway show is protecting a dream of a office man or lady when they are asleep.

[@understitchYT]

Thats such an interesting take, maybe thats exactly what it is

[@shttc900]

Your content makes me feel like I'm receiving an education of sorts!

[@understitchYT]

That makes me feel so good! I would love for my videos to be understood as educational, because thats really what I'm going for

[@marieberg4456]

Hi! I just wanted to say that your videos are amazing, you really deserve more views. Also, you have the best narrator voice ever 😄 Did you study something like fashion and business or where do you get all your knowledge from? I would love to see a video on Alexander McQueen (the designer and his brand before and after his death). I think he was such a fascinating and talented person and I will never forget the exhibition “Savage Beauty” on him and his creations. I visited it three times in London because I couldn’t get enough of it.

[@understitchYT]

I’m so glad that you think so, thank you so much for the wonderful compliment. Yes, I studied retail marketing, loved the course, not so keen on the job afterwards 😂 the McQueen videos are coming, they’re just taking a little bit more time than I thought 😶‍🌫️

[@ks.f.1203]

Great video (as usual). It would be great to hear your take on the rise and fall of the Sies Marjan brand.

[@understitchYT]

You love this brand

[@ks.f.1203]

@@understitchYTlol guilty

[@ks.f.1203]

If not Sies, maybe the rise and rise of Dries Van Noten?

[@p_nk7279]

I like your videos and am interested in fashion.; I live in NYC and have been to Fashion Week events twice - yay! Watching this one for two reasons - 1) I like TB clothes 2) to comment because I once worked for a Tech company handling an ‘install’ project for TB as the client. I took over the project from previous person and on my first call, the TB rep/IT leader used profanity, was bullying and insulted everyone. I stated on the call that the behavior needed to stop immediately or we would end. Never forgotten it, no ‘repercussions’ ever happened to that party, it colored my view of the organization, of course. Keep up the good work!

[@understitchYT]

Oh my gosh thats awful Im so sorry. Fashion people arent always nice. Lotta work lotta pressure no repercussions 😬

[@fabiociquera9197]

Great video! One point though. TB's very first collections were sold as seen on the catwalks - I have been buying and collecting pieces since the very beginning. Prices were astronomical compared to today's prices. So in a sense, before I could see the continuation of ste story - from catwalk to store. Today the catwalk is part of the storytelling but the product in store is a variation on the same theme. Still love it! My favourite uniform.

[@understitchYT]

Youre very right, thats why I put that line in about meaning Thom today instead of Thom at that point because I know it wasnt true of that time. But can I ask you, were the shirts and accessories also sold? Perhaps in a sample sale?

[@fabiociquera9197]

@@understitchYT Shirting was always part of the offering. First thing I ever bought from Harvey Nichols in London in 2008.

[@ShotsMerkzAll]

@@fabiociquera9197how can I see your collection of tb clothes ?

[@annemarrie3895]

I'm super into the other Chanel, the beauty brands mixed with business analysis. When are you releasing a new video on that one?

[@understitchYT]

They come every month, usually on the last Sunday 🙌

[@understitchYT]

I will say I would genuinely love to do more for that channel I just personally dont have the time, and despite how many people seem to think Im a team, Im still just one person with a day job, so even now balancing everything isnt that easy

[@annemarrie3895]

@@understitchYT I totally get this. I'm doing sth totally similar! The balance can be quite difficult with researching, and editing the script enough to stay consistent. Well atleast your content is really great. Keep going so far you're doing a wonderful job. Haha don't quit the day job yet till your able to do it full time, but from the way I see it, that day is soon approaching. All the best figuring it out. I'll def keep my eye out on the other Chanel 🤗💪🏾

[@graemejones2061]

I always buy something in the sales, Harrods stocked him years ago,15 years maybe ,thats where I became hooked.Also the Game Blue with Moncler . He's such a talent.I adore his clothes and wearing them, especially a Thom Grey rugby shirt. I would also recommend a day in the life of Thom Browne with Vogue. its about the couture collection

[@understitchYT]

His clothes are so expensive that for me sales are totally necessary. Ive wanted the dog bag (I actually desperately wanted the fish clutch too but it never went on sale) and the quality is such chefs kiss I know its truly worth it

[@broddablack5290]

I find a lot of his creative ideas over the top!

[@understitchYT]

Do you like it in stores?

[@JonathanB822]

Ive never been in a TB store, very surprised they don't have any retail versions of runway stuff. Many of the runway looks, fabrics, and patterns are so gorgeous what a shame!!

[@understitchYT]

Its such a shame right? That's always the stuff I'm most excited to see

[@Carroty_Peg]

I love your videos! One thing that comes up over and over is the depressing story of huge, faceless mult-national conglomerates buying out absolutely everything and I really hate this predatory model found all over the place. Really would love a parallel universe where Corporations are not legal. Big is not always better.

[@understitchYT]

The thing is, it’s not really that predatory. This whole model began in the 90s, when LVMH bought everything, Prada, tried to join in, kering was introduced etc, and it saved a significant amount of businesses from going bankrupt at the time, including Thom Browne. If it wasn’t for these businesses, we would not have our creative labels. In fact, I don’t see the problem as originating from this big conglomerates, but instead from the inability for small businesses to maintain those businesses in our current economic climate. Why are there no government programs that allow these creative businesses to survive enough years to put something out that can make them profitable? We have grants, and it’s simply not enough, you can’t expect a business to get a few thousand pounds and survive for decades, it’s just not possible. We need business education that is free for these people, we need programs that keep them at least minimally financed for a certain amount of time if they are worthy of a sponsorship, and, I think at a baseline, we did free spots on the London fashion week schedule specifically designated for these kinds of brands. We used to have the man show, but that’s not anywhere near as popular anymore without topshop money, we need many many more things like this that arent connected with other businesses, but rly it also needs to have good PR which is expensive. The problem is that it’s not cheap to run a business, and no one is willing to foot the bill to keep creativity alive, unless they are the big conglomerates that needs creativity to make themselves look better. There’s no one doing it without an ulterior motive 🤷‍♂️ so the big businesses aren’t to blame, they’re just a result of our governments failing us

[@kyleanuar9090]

Now I can put a name to what I've been seeing everywhere.

[@understitchYT]

Very very talented

[@sashaschiaparelli4536]

Idea for a video: the evolution of Kpop fashion 💖

[@understitchYT]

I think I would annoy a lot of people with that video

[@karamuenster]

I read about Thom Browne bcs kpop wore like head to toe including suitcases from him, Ty for your amazing channel👍🏻🥰🤍💯

[@understitchYT]

I'm so glad that you learnt more about Thom Browne's connections to Kpop from me, that makes me so happy. Tbh, I expected more Kpop related comments under the video, but maybe the time they were at their Kpop height with GD hasn't passed on to the new gen ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@GK-up6xz]

There is a huge gap between shows and stores. I’ve only ever seen pieces that come close to the shows in stores like Dover St Ginza but there is something strange about these shops, almost as if they are ‘fronts’. My biggest gripe about this brand is, why do all their customers seem to be shady middle-aged ‘businessmen’?

[@understitchYT]

Yeah, it is common for brand to have very different fashion shows to watch vs what actually goes into stores, but this brand specifically has a really huge gap that its almost disconnected. However, I disagree with what you say about the customers seeming like shady businessman. I’ve never seen the brand worn outside of Asia, if I’m honest. But in Korea and Japan, it is not too rare to see, and it’s usually just integrated into a very plain outfit

[@GK-up6xz]

@@understitchYT that’s so interesting. I’m from Australia and it’s not uncommon here. They seem to have found a niche 😄

[@workinprogress2077]

You have a great voice over voice!!!! I hope its not AI hahaha

[@understitchYT]

So many people think Im AI 😂😂 either that or I have too much vocal fry 😂

[@workinprogress2077]

Your voice is a mix of masculine and feminime tones with high-street anunciation. I think it used to be called "Mid-Atlantic".

[@workinprogress2077]

Do you have an agent to do voice overs for film and tv? Get one....,

[@LufyC]

« -this is my era of kpop » wow i feel very seen

[@understitchYT]

Its MINE, only mine, eat your kimchi who?

[@ngoms1260]

Can you do a video about Zimmermann.

[@understitchYT]

Oh, that would be so interesting

[@akangsamuel9021]

My favourite brand

[@understitchYT]

You have very good taste 🙌

[@userabc886]

Maybe you can do a Rise and Fall of Zac Posen next? I find ‘Rise and Fall’ a bit more interesting than just ‘Rise and Rise’.

[@understitchYT]

Zac Posen would actually be so interesting!

[@ventureted]

No mention of his start at Brooks Brothers? Strange.

[@understitchYT]

It's a video about the brand, not the person

[@ventureted]

@@understitchYT yet you talk about his work with other brands before he started his line and having rich parents...

[@understitchYT]

Which explains how he financed his own company, not because it was about him personally

[@ventureted]

@@understitchYT right and working at Brooks Brothers would explain how he gained the knowledge of construction and menswear in general plus where he likely learned about the entire process from textiles to construction to distribution. I know someone who worked with him there and know this is where he got a lot of ideas for his designs. It seems to me to be an important footnote.

[@ShotsMerkzAll]

@@venturetedcan you tell me more about that? I’m familiar with the black fleece line but would love to understand it better

[@bzztthundaa]

❤❤❤

[@understitchYT]

💖💖💖

[@cowhidesunglasses]

❤

[@understitchYT]

💖

[@scpatl4now]

I never liked Thom Browne's clothes. They just didn't fit a silhouette that I thought was attractive. I hated the drop waist look.

[@understitchYT]

It’s very marmite look, but I really enjoy it

[@yeungeddie]

YOOO

[@understitchYT]

To quote Fred Jones: Yo yo you yo

[@userabc886]

A bit weird that people have to look at his 'fur' with his signature look wearing the shorts at 06:20. That's not really fashion to me.

[@Letsfuckingoooooooo]

Why

[@understitchYT]

Fashion is subjective of course

[@marcotd7923]

Men have naturally hairy legs...

[@broddablack5290]

Skating was a copy off Gaultier

[@understitchYT]

A lot of designers, get inspiration from each other, didn’t he also do tabis before Margiela?

[@prettynpetty8342]

IMO Thom Browne is the only designer working today who takes risks and doesn't compromise his artistic vision for the sake of commerciality and I respect the hell out of him for that. The only other designers I can think of that come close are Iris Van Herpen and Rick Owens.

[@understitchYT]

Oh he does it specifically for commerciality and he is very aware of it too

[@aileendoyle1285]

Marine Serre comes to mind.

[@understitchYT]

@@aileendoyle1285 Marine Serre's shown garments are a different line to most of her retail offering. Because everything is made from recycled clothing, its not possible to have them be the same

[@aileendoyle1285]

@@understitchYT oh, very true! I was more thinking about her decision not to expand her company further so she can ensure quality control, seemed like a decision where artistic vision trumped commercial gain. Not sure if that will last of course, money does funny things with people!

[@understitchYT]

@@aileendoyle1285 she seems to be quite nobly stubborn about it too. We can expect she wouldve seen a lot of buy out offers, but still hasnt gone that path, its very respectable

[@Motleymode]

The credit to Jennie and GD is wild! Consider giving some credit to the stylist. The adulation for kpop artists is wild. Stilyist and coordinators and the industry that back kpop idols is huge and they work really hard and don't get a lot of recognition.

[@understitchYT]

Jennie certainly has a stylist, but GD doesnt, he has been like that for years and it got more when je got power

[@Motleymode]

@@understitchYT no doubt! GD is naturally fashion-inclined and has been rolling with ppl like Yang SeungHo and Lee Hyunjung for more than a decade at this point. I think he should for sure get some credit for infusing high fashion into K-pop.

[@understitchYT]

@@Motleymode oh 100%, that man did so much to push Korea as a fashion destination, I'd go as far as to say that he singularly pioneered it with creativity and CL did it with connections and on the business side (GD did not speak english at this time, he has since learnt, but I think that held him back)

[@Motleymode]

@@understitchYT Cant forget CL 👑

[@lucasmoreno5330]

Thom Browne targeted the small frame of wealthy far eastern customers.

[@understitchYT]

when he started, I don't think that was the aim, but it definitely slotted very well into that gap

[@lucasmoreno5330]

@@understitchYT i cant remeber if in the video it says that he spotted a gap in the market. I took this as being the asian market.

[@vctrszuwu]

girl thom browne was so shady for inviting karina from aespa to a pigeon themed fashion show knowing damn well she has a pigeon phobia like he's cancelled

[@understitchYT]

She has a pigeon phobia?

[@vctrszuwu]

@@understitchYT yess she was super nervous in a video they took of her and went on live to say that she was shocked when she saw the pigeons, but in all seriousness though i know that they didn't know that before inviting her it was just a bad coincidence

[@understitchYT]

@@vctrszuwu Korean people are often scared of wild animals in general (its one of those common fears like clowns or balloons are in America), so maybe they downplayed it? but I guess because it was so obviously a hat, maybe they just didnt think of it?

[@vctrszuwu]

@@understitchYT there were many scenographic pigeons on the runway as well and on the entrance of the theater that's why she was upset, there's just so many things you gotta think about when doing a runway show it's crazy lol

[@peterdo1860]

second 😛

[@understitchYT]

🤌

[@kendi1417]

I guess the fact that 1/3rd of his stores being in Korea is why I'm not really a fan of this brand. I couldn't name one K-pop artists or song if my life depended on it.

[@understitchYT]

It was very different back then, Kpop didnt have this hype around it, noone knew who the celebrities were in England and it very much felt like an underground interest

[@Whypeopledoingthemostfr]

For a while, all the wanna be gangsters and school bullies who are out of shapes in S.Korea were wearing this brand. They seriously thought that they could wear it like GD. What a shame. I wish I could show you how ridiculous they looked. It even became a meme.

[@understitchYT]

It didnt seem to hurt the brand much though, you can still see a lot of people (lots of guys) wearing the vests, shirts, trousers and 패딩 in Seoul. I think they got away safely from that reputation unlike burberry (tho burberry’s problem was much more wide spread)

[@broddablack5290]

I really do not like this line

[@understitchYT]

Can I ask why?

[@jackanapes1492]

I finally know how your channel was recommended for me. K-POP! While I like fashion it’s not content I typically consume on KZbin, so I couldn’t figure out how/why you kept getting recommended to me. Now I know. But I’m not mad 🫰

[@understitchYT]

Im glad you took a chance on checking out my channel ^^