The Rest Of The Story - What happens to YouTube projects?

[@DavidVerch]

One thing I like about you is that you do not shy away from showing mistakes or failure. Making mistakes is so important in learning and growing. Many channels only show success and that is not the real world. We all go down wrong paths and dead ends. I think others here hold you in as high esteem as I do. I think it goes without saying you are very knowledgable and we all learn from you. It is so good to see that you are human and make mistakes like the rest of us.

[@Reman1975]

One of the dirty little secrets that a lot of the "Maker" type KZbin channels don't mention is that epoxy resin yellows with age. Most of these beautiful river tables and epoxy + wood turning projects that now clutter up the platform will end up looking misty, yellowed, and dull 3 to 7 years down the line. This happens through UV damage (Which surprisingly, once started, will usually continue to get worse, even if the items later protected from UV), and heat. So if you decide to put your expensive new hand turned epoxy and walnut burr flower vase on a warm window sill, you've pretty much guaranteed it's going to look awful in a few short years. If they're sprayed with UV blocking clearcoat from new the yellowing will take longer to start, but eventually it nearly always still happening.

[@greybeard3759]

Long bar stock storage; appropriate diameter plastic pipe cut in half length-wise, stood up and tilted back a few degrees holds both long and short.

[@groundthing2130]

Got an easy fix for the grinder adjusters. Drill 4 holes in each adjuster and make like a angle grinder tool that is tethered to the grinder for when it needs adjusting. No more vise grips.....

[@andrew051968]

During my fitting & turning apprenticeship, I had to make toolmakers clamps and a soft hammer in trade school. They were both nickel plated and I still have both (from 1987).

[@nicolashuffman4312]

I made a draw bar for my rotary table. It consisted of a bit of all-thread and a custom nut. As you mentioned, clearance is limited, so the nut looked like a threaded cylinder with maybe a 2mm flange on it to provide clamping force. I drilled 2 holes on the back face so I could tighten the nut with a pin spanner. The only issue is that you need access to the back side of the rotab to use the draw bar.

[@ClanChapman1rRS]

On the subject of your bar/round and also tig stock, we have used PVC tubing of various sizes and lengths with a PVC cap attached to the bottom. We then cut 4" to 6" notches in the sides to suit the various lengths of materials we needed to keep off the floors/benches.

[@1crazypj]

For the rotary table, I found it much more convenient to buy blank, 'soft' drill chuck arbour's. It was real easy to make a special washer to fit into the base of rotary table (a 'top hat' washer that allows Allen head to fit inside it). The 'working end' is about 48mm long & 31mm dia, 3 Morse taper. (Victor Machinery Exchange NYC) It was cheaper than buying material and making them Being Morse taper, it was simple to fit it into lathe head-stock after removing chuck to turn to whatever diameter and length fixture you need. I only bought 2 arbour's but after 10~11 years have only used one, the other still new in box. The only 'inconvenience' is drifting it out when using R.T. flat surface instead of having clamps and fixtures attached

[@wendellmacnevin9266]

W E MacNevin On your storage containers problem. Take a old retired carpenter advice. There are shelf sliders for drawers that will hold 50 lb+. Mount it under the top shelf place sheet of plywood on top of it. it will make a place to put container. Your center casters make your shelf hard to move.

[@jimc4731]

For a support for the bins make another rack top and space it up and off the existing top so there is a slot into which a plywood shelf could be inserted and cantilevered when you wanted to remove a bin and support it. One shelf the size of the bins and moved into the appropriate area where support is required and slid in when not needed. JIM

[@petem6291]

Quinn , Today I came to the conclusion , that the world is a better place because Quinn Dunki is in it , helping and inspiring people .

[@lohikarhu734]

I've been using the different sizes of PVC plumbing pipes for the tubes, and you can use the end caps, with a hole drilled, to screw the pipe piece to your base, or, in some cases, the end caps, themselves, can be used, as is... For your clamping screws, I've used scrap bicycle quick release cam locks, or, I've also used a kind of leverhnut that has little castellations, so that you lift the lever, and rotate it a bit, kind of like a ratchet effect, so that you can always (almost) get the lever part oriented nicely....hmmm, I need to put a link to those things...

[@johnwiley8417]

12:25 As I, and my knees, have aged, I've found it helpful to keep a couple of three-legged camping stools around the shop. Low enough so I can reach the floor from them without hunkering all the way down. A five gallon bucket can serve the same purpose. Either forms enough lap to sort a tray of doodads.

[@Reman1975]

I've had back problems that makes standing for any length of time painful for years, so in my little workshop I used to have a tall "Reception desk" swivel chair that I'd fitted with 4" casters. It was great in there because it put me at pretty much standing height at the benches, and I could easily scoot myself along by shoving off against the bench tops without even having to stand up. :D Unfortunately, when I moved last, the new workshop (Another one car garage) was about a foot narrower and 3 foot shorter than the last one, so there wasn't room for my big boy toys AND leaving a wide enough walkway down the middle for the chair to not block it, so it ended up outside under a tarp during summer, forgotten about during the winter, and then the rusty/mouldy mess was taken to the scrap man the following summer. :(

[@petert9749]

@@Reman1975 Raman: enjoyed your comment; under medical supervision, have you ever thought your engineering activities might kept you going? Wonderful and cheap health insurance.

[@outsidescrewball]

Enjoyed…certainly enjoy making shop tools/enhancements

[@jlucasound]

Make a (square?) cart with castors and a minimal top to put your scrap bins on. This way you could also roll the whole bin over to were you are working if you need to choose a piece based on something clamped in your machine tool, for example. Of course I am assuming you have an open spot to stow it.

[@umahunter]

If you need some of the smaller cardboard tubes go to your local fishing store and ask fishing poles are usually shipped in the heavy wall tubes up to 8ft or longer and 2-4 inches especially for small or single pole orders you can also post on your local fishing page most fisherman that have ordered poles have several tubes laying around somewhere they'd probably give you👍👍👍

[@N.Cognito]

For the material storage issue, add a step for each soon in the selection. The long pieces go all the way down, the short ones go on the step.

[@umahunter]

For your storage rack you could install some garage door barn door etc style or make a track along the front of the shelf with a fold down shelf on rollers with a hinged leg with angle on the bottom so when not in use it's hangs flat against the front of the shelf then when you need it slide it where needed and lift the leg so the angle sits against the top and front of the shelf below locking it in place with right track etc it'll probably only stick out a couple inches then you can slide it to wherever you need it when not in use it'll just hang flat against the shelf 👍👍👍

[@markfinkel1761]

In regards to the lack of flat surface dilemma near your stock rack, might try using a folding suitcase stand like I do. Nice because it can be easily stashed someplace when not in use, & will hold a substantial amount of weight without a problem.

[@leighmackay7486]

Always a pleasure to bask in the glow of your bright mind, Quinn. Cheers from Vancouver.

[@RonCovell]

That was excellent, Quinn. It's good to know that so many of your special fixtures have been so useful, and that small tweaks can often improve their function!

[@thecrucible537]

I just love it when I see one of my childhood heroes commenting on a video of one of my adulthood heroes. We live in magical times.

[@robinafoubister]

I have an idea about the bottom tubes on your bar stock storage. You don't have to wait for smaller tubes. Just take a tube of the same size and cut it in half so that you have two arcs. Glue the "feet" of the arcs to the existing tubes. From the top down perspective, it will look like three circles in a row with a very curvy M across the top of them (or a very curvy W across the bottom of them.)

[@blackcat40417]

I love that you shared the success and learnings of your projects! I wish more channels did this.

[@ryandavis7593]

Thank you Quinn. Working on shop improvements as you speak.

[@handsofrhythm3415]

This could be the most honest video on YT. Thank you for giving us an insight rarely seen by the common hobby machinist.

[@avoirdupois1]

I enjoyed your revisit video. I had a thought about your walking mandrel problem from your corner rounding fixture. Your problem reminded me of some expanding mandrels I've seen other machinists use. If you cut the original mandrel a little shorter, and cut a cone shaped recess into the end, and slit the mandrel about halfway up, you could make a cone shaped nut to fit into the recess. Then, counterbore your original mandrel for thread clearance, and use a long bolt to reach through to the cone nut. that should apply pinching/spreading force at the bottom to bind it in the taper. Alternatively, and more simply, you could just machine a relief into the underside of your fixture (if there's room) for a shop made wafer nut, and again, counterbore your mandrel.

[@g.tucker8682]

Oh boy, I caught the hint! Can't wait…

[@anthonymarino4260]

DESIGN IS EVERYTHING THANKS FOR SHARING

[@jebowlin3879]

I may not want to get into machining, but that never stops me from enjoying good machinist content

[@laurencestonard4593]

thanks for the updates on the projects, thanks for you time and trouble 🤠

[@dragade101]

Thank you for making this kind of followup video

[@lyleturner6964]

You are i are of a kind. i am happy you keep learning. No matter the design or use, every one of your design's turn out more practical and useful than the last. I try to learn every day and with every mistake myself.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

I like how things start simple and quickly need to be opposite of how we think it should be to work correctly. Excellent rework Quinn and thanks for sharing!

[@peltona]

I love the honesty. Continuous state of improvement is how everything gets better (hopefully). Thanks for sharing.

[@brianhostak3961]

That was great Quinn !! You rock !! Thank you !!

[@robertwalker7457]

Thank you very much. Dad always told me that trade people are always their own worst critic, the legs on a wooden table are never the same length but only the cabinet maker knows. These projects all seem sound and fit for purpose to me, well done.

[@bradthayer6782]

I always appreciate your openness to admit the *extremely rare* mistakes you might or might not make. This can be an intimidating hobby, and the humility is appreciated.

[@bostedtap8399]

Great "Where are they now" Quinn, good to see ongoing improvements. Tool makers clamps, standard type, don't require a LH & RH thread! Thanks for sharing.

[@CptAwwsome]

You know your show is a success when you've got enough material to produce a clip-show. Love it

[@NicholasMarshall]

Maybe one day sprocket the cat will get their own spin-off..

[@hashgeek929]

Yours, Stefan’s, and Robin’s are my favorite channels. You all take the time to explain what your thought processes are. Seeing how different workflows, applications, and levels of OCD can require different approaches provides a more wholistic understanding of the concepts.

[@jaredhubbell7013]

This kind of follow up project info is super useful. Hope this kind of video becomes a trend!

[@JeffSearust]

Love the "hindsight" video...

[@bengrogan9710]

A suggestion for locking the morse mandrill if there is no space for protrusion - drill and tap the rear for a Taper threaded grub screw then slit it into 60 degree areas so the taper can splay the rear for a heavier bind up on the morse taper

[@RichardDePas]

Thank you! Excellent video and message to all of us starting out.

[@jimc4731]

For your tubular racks at the end of the bench, mount the tubes on slat wall, then make bottom panels for each tube and adjust them up and down per your requirement JIM

[@davidcockerman266]

As for your tubular storage I might suggest using PVC pipe or EMT conduit. I use both for different applications and I hang them as a over head storage. In my home shop I used hole saws to cut holes in plywood to make a wooden rack to mount the storage unit to floor joists and rafters. At my work I use EMT with unistrut rails and EMT clamps to make an over head storage rack under our stairsteps going to our parts stock room. This rack is handy for drill rod, brass rods, and other typically short materials. 3 feet and shorter. At this point you can place all stock 3 feet and shorter in the tubes and have all the ends pulled out to the front opening for easy access.

[@DavidKutzler]

Quinn, I made a set of toe clamps similar to the ones that you made for my rotary table. I would like to see how you would add an aluminum pad to the back tightening screws. In the interim, I keep a collection of small, 1/8th inch thick aluminum cutoff "coupons" in a jar next to my fastening hardware and slip one between the back tightening screw and my rotary table so as to not mar the surface.

[@greybeard3759]

For the pallet clamps I found using a carriage bolt with the head smoothed and inserted upside down works very well. The flats under the head are perfect for adjusting with a small wrench too.

[@brucethompson343]

Use PVC pipe for your stock storage instead of the cardboard tubes. You have endless sizes to choose from and can cut to any length.

[@manythingslefttobuild]

Great tool update Quin.

[@scottyhughes9179]

thank you Quinn.

[@kensherwin4544]

Everybody is aware of the cord fairies that come into our shops at night to tangle up the extension cords and air hoses that we so carefully coiled up and put away. Apparently they have cousins that like to mess up storage of bar stock when we aren't looking.

[@richardboucher6904]

Quinn, I finally broke down and built the grinder tool rests for my bench grinder. I love them. I just put a straight handle on the adjusting knobs and that solved the tightening problem. My grinder has cast wheel guards which required some machining to attach the rest to them but no vibration problems and it allowed me a lot of space to have inward adjustment. I use brass flat head screws for the jack screws, flat head down, on my small clamps which I made 58 years ago, and have been used many more times than twice at this point, and no marring of whatever tool I mount them on, angle plate, cube or faceplate. Dick B.USA

[@manyirons]

For a temporary improvement to storing your "no-man's land" bar stock, you could use clothespins to clip them to the longer lengths.

[@greggmundkowsky5798]

Oh how I hope that little steam locomotive going across the screen means a live steam locomotive build soon, great review

[@ronnyfurst5511]

dear quinn.... this video is something I was always wondering about. thank you very much for this. inspided me to go on my myford super 7:-)

[@75blackviking]

Information about your material bench solved a long-standing problem I've been facing with my own storage needs for years. Your channel rocks!

[@batmanacw]

On the hold down clamps, flip the jack cap screw in the back so the socket head is against the face plate. They finger adjust easily until you draw it tight with the clamping cap screw

[@DavidLindes]

10:56 - choo chooooooo! :) Fun! I look forward to that!!

[@foxwood67]

Great point on over lapping storage sizes. I ran into same problem which leads to point #2 always leave extra room to add on

[@DJPLAST2]

On that last issue of needing the brass caps on the supporting screw, just throw a penny between the screw and the face plate, cheapest protection you can get.

[@mperry9025]

Thanks Blondi

[@robertburns2415]

I salute you in keeping with the finest tradition of Paul Harvey and the rest of the story

[@CraigAndera]

Continue to greatly enjoy your channel. Revisiting your projects and pointing out the flaws is a kind of honesty that you well exemplify. Kudos!

[@cripplecreeksawmill]

It takes a very confident/down-to-earth person to point out the failures along with the triumphs. I definitely appreciate the more "human" aspects of all your content👍-Andy

[@fredfleming2455]

Hi there Quinn, for your storage bin problem, may I suggest building a 4 legged table, of appropriate size and height, to fit between car and bench, and mount it on castors to make it easily movable... I will also make it 100 times more easy to move multiple items, or heavy items, around your workshop!!! Also put a shelf underneath to help strengthen the legs and provide more space... We have 2 at work, and they get used nearly every day... cheers... [ps. love your work]

[@glenntrewitt]

As far as being able to rummage around in your small bins... As an experienced (not I didn't say "expert") juggler of annoying things, it's easy to get fixated on "shelf". All you need is enough support to free up one hand. I observe a trashy-looking 4x4 or some such to the rack's right. A 6-8" demi-shelf should make a large quality-of-life improvement. If you make it big enough and at the right height, you can brace the bin with your hip and do two-handed rummaging.

[@AutoExpertJC]

Excellent video. Highlights an important factor often unstated in the 'maker' community. Totally agreed with the main point you made here (mechanical engineer talking) - the 'problem' with most KZbin DIY is: You're seeing iteration #1 of a prototype, which in most cases also becomes the finished product, because it's so laborious to make it again, better, twice more, with only incremental improvement. So, essentially, if the concept is good, as a viewer, you finish watching a video looking at a nice idea with considerable potential. Obviously, from a YT creator perspective, it's pretty boring to do two more vids of essentially the same thing, only iteratively better. (Or, alternatively, to burn three times the time making the finished part - iteration #3 - after throwing two prototypes under the bus, thereby cutting one's YT productivity by 66%...) It's unfortunate that those 'missing' iterations might have only 15-25% difference from the finished product - but that's the bit that turns a good idea into a good product. A kind of gestalt theory - the finished part being greater than the sum of its iterative improvements... Very well explained. Thanks.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Thanks for sharing!

[@jackdawg4579]

I was waiting to see the steam engine graveyard where the superseded units have been relegated to the dark dusty corners of the house, or running the bingo wheel at the local hall..! My main hobby is blacksmithing, and I like to do it a lot, so the wife gets rather twitchy when those dark and dusty corners start to overflow with the stuff I have made. So I have come up with a novel solution to the wife's twitchiness. As I am a hobbyist, I wont normally sell what I make, it is my hobby! not something to be turned a stressful business. But once a year my mates and I gather up all the various things we have made and we go to a historical museum's annual open day and we demonstrate blacksmithing and sell all the stuff we have made over the last year (for 10c in the dollar on what you might otherwise get for it) and give all the money raised to the museum. Happy wives, happy museum, and a happy bunch of blokes who then have all those dark and dusty corners they can start filling up again!

[@seanalexander9531]

That's such a lovely story 😃

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Very interesting. Nice projects. Good video. Thanks

[@WatchmakerErik]

I love this video, and I love that you build stuff to use. One of the things I enjoy when I watch your channel is seeing the previous projects pop up to help when you build something. I am planning to make a lot of the tools in my home shop for the experience and practice, and so they can be exactly what I want them to be.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great video. It is always disturbing to me when I finish a project and can immediately see two or three ways it could have been done better. And that happens in the majority of projects. 😂😒

[@SonofTheMorningStar666]

Atleast you are learning from your mistakes. A lot of people don't.

[@bobhudson6659]

You are not alone. Welcome to the camp.

[@M05000583]

Nice update video, good idea! When I have used strap clamps similar to those face plate clamps, I always have the support bolt upside down. You don't need to access the head of the support bolt as it's tightened using the other bolt, and the head has more surface area and no sharp edges so it won't damage the face plate as easily. Also it gives you more range of length in the screw, as you don't need the length of the head sticking up out of the top of the clamp. Not having the head sticking up will also reduce the overall height of the assembled fixture, which may be helpful sometimes. You made a counterbore for the head of the clamping bolt, but then have the support bolt head sticking up potentially getting in the way. One last thing to consider, If you make something for the end of the bolt, you will have to remove it to swap to different length support bolts, and you have to unscrew and then screw in the full length of the bolt. When you get to longer bolt sizes there is also rarely thread running up the full length of the bolt, so reversing the screw is a necessary step in these longer lengths anyway. Simply reversing the back support bolt seems to me to be the easiest and quickest solution to many potential problems, the only exception is clamping on parts thinner than the bolt head, but simply grinding the end of the shorter bolts flat should solve this, no sharp edges from the thread forming process, no damage. Hope this helps, the only downside to this solution is that it doesn't require any machine tools to make it happen, where's the fun in that! 🤣

[@brucehodsdon4310]

But what about the cat toothbrush jig? THAT'S what people want to know! 🤣

[@evolutionmonkey3146]

Another great video Quinn love the honesty of your reviews. Regarding the bar stock storage, for a simple solution, could you just add another row of tubes between the upper and lower ones (on the next horizontal shelf support) to cater for the mid length stock?

[@davidchang-yen1256]

As a gainfully employed engineer, I could not agree more about being willing to modify what you make if it doesn’t work. As a general rule, what I design NEVER works perfectly the first time, so I always build in the ability to change it later (if possible).

[@scruffy4647]

Quinn, you are an excellent instructor. Lots of tutorials on machining and techniques. Most of them use aluminum. If possible, maybe in a future video, you can expand on using steel as your test pieces and why you selected it. There are so many metals to choose depending on the application and deciding what works best. Price, machineability, weld. temper. etc. HR vs CR. For example, if machining an acme screw, what metal would you use. I am guessing your lathe or mill has a lot to do with this. Hp & rigidity, skill level. Anyway, thks.

[@dragade101]

The face plate clamps, would you want the clamping nose to be more pointed? That seems like a benefit to get parts of castings that are more irregular and you only have a little surface to clamp onto.

[@jimsvideos7201]

The cores from large-format photo paper - as are likely available from a local print shop - are 2 or 3" diameter and as sturdy as the ones on your material rack.

[@utidjian]

Another reason to put those brass caps on your 'jacking screws' of the strap clamps is with use, eventually, the very ends of the threads are going to get upset (technical word for smooshed) and everntually they will not be removable without also distorting and/or stripping the threads in the straps. And that would be bad. Not so bad if you aways use the same jacking screws and never have to remove them. At some point, however, you may want to use a longer or shorter jacking screw or a conventional hex head cap screw. I had a Vertex BS-0 'Semi-Universal' dividing head that has an MT-2 taper spindle bore. I also made some special fixturing mandrels and spigots and what-have-you for it and I also found that I needed to make a drawbar to secure these. I used a socket head cap screw and a special "washer" with a deep pocket otherwise the head of the SHCS would interfere with tilt angles beyond horizontal. This was also handy for small work pieces that could be held in MT-2 collets. Not useful to you but perhaps for others. The Vertex BS-0 had the same thread on its spindle for mounting a chuck or faceplate. As luck would have it this was the same thread as the spindle on my 10" lathe at the time. This enabled me to swap the 3-jaw and 4-jaw chucks I had between lathe and milling machine and back again without removing the work from the chuck. It was not super precision but within +/- 0.001" (0.0254mm) Love the "phone clamps".

[@flyingjeep911]

We got clamps like those for the EDM at work.. we use Pennie’s under the screw. They are soft and non magnetic

[@alanb76]

Great video. I design a lot of tools, holders, brackets and fixtures that I 3D print. While the first print is often usable the second or third iteration is so much improved as we incorporate what we learned. Similarly with software, re-designing after some early trials often produces a better overall design if it is something that isn't similar to what we've done before...

[@dragonrider93]

I like the idea of recycling the card board tubes, great idea. I have a similar set up in our shop, plastic creates we get seedlings in. I work for a commercial landscaper, I'm the mechanic. For the long thin stuff like you have.... I got 5/8 to 3/16 all thread from 1 ft to 6 ft.. 1" 2" 4" flat bar.... I recycle the schedule 80 pvc that our irrigation guy brings back. I have it cut down to 8", 15" 28" and a 48" The first 3, I put some pvc end caps on, the 4 footer just sits on the floor. Got any wood laying around your shop ? I was thinking you could cut some end caps the ID of the tubes, glue or screw them in place.....Just keep that in mind the next time you get a tube in from McM & C......

[@josephalexander3884]

I love those cardboard tubes. I have used them for numerous projects.

[@boblewis5558]

Don't know if this will help or not but I have a similar albeit smaller storage problem for metal lengths and I have been considering how I can use plastic plumbing pipe more sensibly for differing lengths. It occurred to me that long stock (say 1000 to 1200 mm) can easily be catered for via a normal 32 mm (1.25") standard pvc sink drainage pipe up through 4"/100mm orange underground pipe. BUT by cutting shorter lengths of pipe and using end caps and standard plumbing solvent you can effectively create the equivalent of those desk pen tidies with the multiple different sized tubes. Using differing lengths of open pipe and glueing appropriately an infinitely variable yet consistent storage system can easily be created. Including a stable stand alone one not necessarily requiring the vertical support of a bench.

[@miken3260]

I store small rods and pipes in a plastic bucket with pieces of scrap PVC pipe taped together for dividers.

[@Daniel-vd9up]

Hi Quinn, You should take a look at Harold Halls books. In particular his one on milling and his one on grinding. In them are plans to make a very good grinding rest and fixtures which can be used for sharpening end mills, lathe tools etc..

[@kencarlile1212]

This certainly does a good job of reminding me that I CAN modify my shop made tools and such. I'm working on a new bench right now, so thanks for giving me permission to mess up and correct things later! (signed, a woodworker)

[@gubelly]

How about a custom steel trolly with heavy castors to put the bin on. It would double with heavy part transport.

[@LimitedGunnerGM]

I figured you only did projects you intended to use. Sort of “I have this project coming up and need a new tool, so I made it”.

[@deanehill9730]

Thanks for the video.

[@orcasea59]

I appreciate this. Honestly, I question so many jigs & tools that are "perfect solutions!" but then you never see the maker use them again...ever... It's disingenuous, and those people usually wind up getting unsubscribed for various reasons. I love that you actually use your project tools, but I am not surprised ;) Keep up the great work!

[@bDwS27]

I've made many shabby tools that have both ended up being great, and totally useless scrap that I at least learned from, and something that's helped me a lot if I really need something to work because it's for a job or something I'll use all the time I make one and see it as a test piece with no aesthetic features and leave it a but rough , test it out on a small project and that tends to make me figure out what I should change or add to the design. Of course this only really works on fairly simple projects and not something like a massive storage system haha Great video, I loved hearing what you'd change and what works, I hope you and other KZbin tool makers make more videos like this! You always inspire me to make more!

[@ncktbs]

id recommend a folding floor creeper to set stuff on good for laying under cars as a rolling stool and a table pluss its flat or a stool so storage is easy hang it on a wall or under you rack had one for 15 years 99 percent of the time its a stool or table the triplex or just a 70$ 2 in 1 plus no need to carry a box around

[@MattOckendon]

Much as I like the TOT style waving hands style, it was a shame not to see the “whole Quinn” in the stock storage section 😊. Great stuff as always.

[@josephalexander3884]

Thank you. This was excellent. Just a thought, make the bottom holders quadruple or quintuple the length. Now you can store the longer off cuts and this will corral your long stock better.

[@johnapel2856]

This was a neat little sum up my stuff video. Interesting. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.

[@acraftman2823]

One of our favorite pieces of furniture in our house is a piece that was supposed to be the top section of a break front credenza that was to be three shelves wide which were supposed to be something and 3/8" long not 5/8" that were mortised and securely glued into place and after a long days work and putting it in place I found it overhung the lower section yep 3/8. I made some really interesting doors for it and used milk paint since it was available for experimentation and design purposes, made the proper dimensioned one for the client and everybody was happy. BTW Quinn was curious if you considered just drilling holes in that knurled knob and making a little hex hole flange out of it.

[@mariellecb1]

Thanks for sharing these updates. I am assuming that it is because it has already gotten quite a bit of screen time/use since its birth that the cross drilling fixture wasn't included. Love the spoiler/peak into the future!!! :)