Top Ten Secret Machine Shop Weapons

This episode on Blondihacks, I’m showing my favourite secret tools! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
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Here are links for many of the tools that you see me using:
(I earn small commissions on these links)
#1 Thin Parallels : amzn.to/3XZ3QvN
#2 Loctite 603 : amzn.to/3XW2zWi
Loctite 680 : amzn.to/3XW2Dp0
Loctite 545 : amzn.to/3XXiqUB
#3 Adjustable Parallels : amzn.to/3O1koyT
#4 Over/Under Reamers : www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/H...
#5 Morse Taper Endmill Holders : littlemachineshop.com/product...
#6 Pilot Point Drills : amzn.to/44tc9Tl
#7 Diamond Tool Holder : www.eccentricengineering.com....
#8 Tack Hole Punch : amzn.to/3Q3CWRE
#9 NOGA Back-Side Deburring Tool : amzn.to/2X07WX1
#10 Scotch-Brite Wheel : amzn.to/44yRmh2
Other tools I like:
• Shrum Solutions face mill: www.shrumsolutions.com/shop?p...
• 6mm CCMT Boring Bar | Shrum Solutions: www.shrumsolutions.com/produc...
• D. Gray kits for the home shop : d-gray-drafting-and-design.my...
• The Original Rose Index : rosenthalproducts.com/
• Mill clamping set : amzn.to/2xc9vqr
• Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/2IJsAUs
• Zero Flute Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/3bmPLPe
• NOGA Deburring set : amzn.to/2Jv3RlW
• NOGA Reversible Deburring Tool : amzn.to/2X07WX1
• Knurling Tool : amzn.to/2FblXb1
• Tapered Reamer : amzn.to/2Gn0b3G
• Chucking Reamer set : amzn.to/3odnVvh
• Nicholson files : amzn.to/2VcHkls
• Nicholson needle files : amzn.to/2BDt7ph
• 1-2-3 Blocks : amzn.to/2EvAsGq
• Dormer center drills : amzn.to/2X7U6ij
• 6” Divider : amzn.to/2GTncM3
• NOGA arm with magnetic base : amzn.to/2U2bGTI
• NOGA arm Big Boy : amzn.to/381acji
• Collet Block set : amzn.to/2UkF1vZ
• DeWalt drill and driver kit : amzn.to/2Gp6IeJ
• DeWalt portable band saw : amzn.to/2U4Mhsw
• DeWalt band saw blades : amzn.to/2H2J4X0
• High Speed Steel parting blade : amzn.to/2YcdYBv
• High Speed Steel blade holder : amzn.to/2JgO0IK
• High Speed Steel tool blanks : amzn.to/2H1qoqr
• Grizzly Pre-ground tool bits : amzn.to/2H4yr5z
• AXA tool holders : amzn.to/2V1gOHl
• Quick Change Toolpost : amzn.to/310mshq
• Norton oil stone kit : amzn.to/2EbLEH3
• Norton small sharpening stone: amzn.to/2PQwex9
• End mills : amzn.to/2U76Vsf
• Milling machine starter pack : amzn.to/2tA2M4e
• Forceps : amzn.to/2Ww5dFT
• Mill Parallels : amzn.to/2lfW82i
• GearWrench ratcheting tap & die set : amzn.to/2lMwZfV
• Step bits : amzn.to/2q54yfJ
• Starrett automatic center punch : amzn.to/2DCI7C9
• Budget transfer punch set : amzn.to/2yfDgHi
• Precision shim stock : amzn.to/34lJlME
• Jet 2-ton press : amzn.to/2SLas1s
• Gear Wrench locking puller : amzn.to/2ubBV1W
• Starrett tap wrenches : amzn.to/35jxM9e
• Goldenrod oiler : amzn.to/2TTS0En
• Acid brushes : amzn.to/36qWCo5
• Cratex (Bright Boy) block : amzn.to/38fNm72
• Scotchbrite deburring wheel : amzn.to/3ks0P2V
• Fein Turbo I shop vac : amzn.to/2vXpech
• Machinist’s scale : amzn.to/2Zk6oVj
• Mixed metric/imperial dial caliper : amzn.to/2KKARYY
• Mitutoyo micrometer set : amzn.to/2GtICPx
• Mitutoyo depth micrometer : amzn.to/33M8aSH
• Mitutoyo edge finder : amzn.to/2G36omq
• Mitutoyo dial indicator : amzn.to/2H09gBr
• Mitutoyo dial test indicator : amzn.to/2E5lRQw
• Coaxial indicator : amzn.to/3bbBEwE
• Mitutoyo telescoping gauge set : amzn.to/2Z6houn
• Starrett 98-6 Level : amzn.to/38K7lMD
• Grizzly Height Gage : amzn.to/2PDTr7i
• Thread Checker : amzn.to/2CpvAUU
• The Amateur’s Lathe book : amzn.to/3jIYlwe
• Anchor Lube : amzn.to/2H9X6oQ
• Boeshield T-9 : amzn.to/2TCE0wB
• Brownell’s Oxpho Blue : amzn.to/2YhZTmR
• Dykem layout fluid : amzn.to/2U7KQts
• Tap Magic cutting oil : amzn.to/3j8kNnR
• WD-40 : amzn.to/2GYV8rY
• Loctite 242 : amzn.to/2RIt3sQ
• Way oil : amzn.to/38Gl9qW
• CMD Extreme Pressure lube : amzn.to/36JPNy9
• 3-in-1 oil : amzn.to/36in43e
Commenting policy : blondihacks.com/commenting-po...
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@624Dudley]

Hello Quinn - there will no doubt be interest in Eccentric Engineering tool holders, but your viewers may benefit from knowing that the popular 10mm size will be unavailable just now. I heard from Gary on July 19 that the usual foundry was closing, and a new supplier had to be found. There are few to pick from in Australia, and he prefers to keep production in-country. I was further told that prices will take a considerable rise, and that availability of that size was anticipated for mid September if things progress well. Distribution will originate only from Australia, so purchasers should expect a jolt from shipping cost. Sorry 😞

[@Blondihacks]

😟

[@brodiesmith4419]

Ouch on the shipping as an Aussie myself I know exactly how much thats going to hurt!!

[@asciimation]

As a Kiwi I was pleasantly surprised on finding they were made (and shipped) from Aussie after Quinn last recommended them. A lot cheaper than getting cool tools shipped from the US or UK. Was definitely one of the best little lathe tool purchases I made, well worth it.

[@666Listblack]

The reverse parting tool that he sells as well is great

[@brodiesmith4419]

@@666Listblack you mean a welder? Lol

[@EngineerRaisedInKingston]

"Leaking steam engine fittings are either maddening or perfectly normal depending on how British you are" 🤣 That bit had me creasing Brilliant video as always, Quinn. Very informative.

[@binky_bun]

As a brit who doesn't know about steam engines I'm not sure if this is a slur or a compliment

[@EngineerRaisedInKingston]

@@binky_bun I think it’s a bit of both 😂 British engineering and leaky fittings go hand in hand

[@binky_bun]

@@EngineerRaisedInKingston doesn't surprise me. It's not just our high pressure steam fittings that leak. My experience with domestic plumbing has shown me that much especially on Christmas morning just gone when I woke up and found I could take a shower in my kitchen

[@oldfarthacks]

I must admit, Quinn got a giggle out of me with that line. Let's face it, the Brit stuff leaks. This is why on some English cars, there was an engine oil tank that you fill every time you go for a drive. While the engines are not total loss types, there is a miles per quart standard to be considered. There is a channel out there by the name of Tweed's Garage that tends to show this sort of thing.

[@billspear7702]

I had a Land Rover for years, first thing in the morning was to count the puddles, if one was missing something needed oil.@@EngineerRaisedInKingston

[@UpLateGeek]

My favourite workshop tool is my Dad. If I can't figure out how to make something or get stuck on a project, I just tell my Dad about it and he usually has some suggestion that helps. Even if it doesn't work first time, just having that different perspective/approach is sometimes enough to break out of the rut and find the solution.

[@g.tucker8682]

That's great, but… does your Dad know you're calling him a "tool?"

[@sungear]

I'm an old dude in the design and engineering world. Let me tell you, the people that think they know what they're doing far outnumber those that do. Quinn is one of the few that really knows what she's doing. I was prompted to rant because of the loctite dissertation. Hardly anyone else knows the science and versatility of loctite.

[@Pushyhog]

ha, yea, and many think loctite is usa stuff. Not. If ya really wanta hold some things togethet try henkel hysol.

[@steveboylan526]

With thin parallels, stick a piece of plastic foam between them to keep them against the vise jaws.

[@machinistmikethetinkerer4827]

Rubber binders work too.

[@brianhaygood183]

Magnets.

[@tyrannosaurusimperator]

I've always made a spring by cutting a strip out of an aluminum can and bending it into a V.

[@machinistmikethetinkerer4827]

@@tyrannosaurusimperator same here except I used a piece of banding strap.

[@robbie6625]

​@@tyrannosaurusimperatorIn the shop I worked in we just used old thin parallels bent into a V shape as a spring

[@craignevels3530]

I've worked in the machine tool industry for over 50 years, both as a machinist/tool and die maker and a mechanical designer. I'll have to say after watching your videos that I can't find much to disagree with. I had my own shop for 10 years and if I still had it, I'd hire you in a minute. Keep up the good videos!

[@edwardvangeel2763]

Another workaround for the tack hole punch is : you put the leather (or other thin sheet material) between two pieces of wood and press them strongly together ; then use a regular drill (metal or wood, does not matter) in the drill press. You may get burr on both outsides of the wood, but not in between. The hole in the leather will be clean.

[@djazt.8053]

That's a great tip also for all the intermediate sizes for which the punch pliers would not have a setting. Yet another workaround is to get a set of ordinary hole punches, the ones that are used with a hammer, like a chisel. There are even Chinese made sets with one base piece, into which various punching tips are screwed in, of the same type as used in the revolver punch pliers. That makes it even cheaper than even a used set of punches. Also, such punches are more flexible to use than punch pliers, as they are not restricted to be used around the edges of a sheet of material.

[@1crazypj]

@@djazt.8053 I just make 'special sizes' from drill rod, only have 3 specials though as the Made in India sets cover just about everything else (even after 50+ years of making parts)

[@ytnjw]

If you have a set of ER collets then an ER-Morse taper holder will give you much more flexibility than the mill holder variety.

[@NeilFraser]

My favourite less-known tool is a nibbler. When dealing with sheet metal, it's great at getting into places that shears can't get to.

[@oldfarthacks]

They are fun, there is even a power version, works much like the die filer that she made. Just watch your fingers.

[@624Dudley]

Nibblers are essential in aircraft work. 👍

[@oldfarthacks]

@@624Dudley So, that's been Boeing's problem of late, they have been using nibbles in their software when they should have been using bits?

[@624Dudley]

@@oldfarthacks Possibly!

[@it_isnt_diy]

I absolutely LOVE your channel. I started watching about a month ago and WOW. Thank you so much for being so beginner friendly. :)

[@oldfarthacks]

Quinn is quite the erudite lady. I love her teaching style and the fact that she is willing to share her oops moments.

[@rrabbit1960]

For endmill holding in my tail stock I've found an ER32 collet chuck with a Morse taper works very well. Love your channel-you've taught me many techniques that fit my style of machine shop.

[@1crazypj]

ER20 or 25 may be better for smaller stuff or very small machines? Plus, as you almost point out, you only need one chuck and a set of collets which can be swapped around on different machines and fixtures (rotary table, head-stock, spin indexer, etc) Personally, I find it far more convenient than actual mill holders which I have very few of.

[@TM-rp7bd]

yep. was thinking the same thing

[@TM-rp7bd]

yep. was thinking the same thing

[@OldGeezerstoolbox]

Thanks for your thoroughly done presentations. It must take a ton of work and planning to pull off. They say in the media industry that it takes 10 hours of work to create 10 minutes of usable footage so I hope your viewers understand the herculean effort involved with bringing such good material to the internet. Also, so few presenters go into detail regarding the justification for their recommendations, procedures and choices that the effort you put into that part really makes your channel a standout.

[@ronnyfurst5511]

My dearest Quinn... please please please DO many more videos like this! For every hobby machinist this is absolute gold! how often you get around a tool and you buy it with no particular reason...maybe even just because you like it or because the tool looks very well made. and then after a while you are not able to realise how you could life without this tool before. Or do you know this feeling when you are in a workshop or hobby shop from a friend and looking around with big eyes and see his/her solutions for storage or see some tools you did not know before... Or sometimes you are in a hobbyshop from somebody that makes something totally different as you do, maybe some woodworks or leather or cloths etc... and then see a tool that is the real solution for some problem which was a real pain in the a** for years??? that was always my way to find tools or solutions and mostly this is a hard or at least a time consuming way. Long story short... Quinn your vids are great! Always very good infos, real well explained,never boring and its always nice to see you😊 When I'm home from work and maybe havin a beer and watch some blondihacks.... its like havin a beer with a friend. Well and I think this is the real goal when making videos like you Quinn, that people really lookin forward for the next video:-)

[@jimbennett1519]

I bought the diamond tool holder several years ago and at first I wasn't too crazy about it 😊 Now tho that I got used to it I would say it is in my lathe 90% of the time. It is just that versatile. My next task is to take the time to master grinding a cutter for threads.

[@jambusspeakermouse1325]

Same. Was expensive to import but worth it. Picked up the Turnado as well which is a lot of fun. If i can fit a nice handle to something you can bet the turnado is coming out!

[@andrewsmith8388]

After seeing how much used the diamond cutter got on this chanel, I also bought one. Great easy to use much better than grinding all those traditional hss tool bits

[@larryvergon6740]

The Dewalt Pilot Point Drill Bits are my go to when drilling holes in sheet metal. The point drills a pilot hole and guides the outer cutters that cut a reverse angle hole that usually makes a washer the size of the hole. Yes there are step drills for this application, but you can over run the step size you want and there aren't the range of sizes available in the pilot drill set.

[@craigmccuistion4896]

Those weapons definitely separate us from the animals! Thanks!

[@TabletopMachineShop]

We had a Henkel rep come and visit the last company I worked at and he said a press fit between a pin and hole only has about 30% actual interference contact -- you can imagine if there are peaks and valleys on both surface finishes, only the peaks wedge together. By contrast, an adhesive with admittedly lower yield strength can achieve 100% contact and result in a stronger joint. He obviously had the incentive of selling Henkel Loctite products, but it was a fascinating talk (with a hands on "arts and crafts" session) that was extremely detrimental to the effort I put into press fits!

[@bostedtap8399]

Good point, plus interference fits have limited effect on low carbon steels, think stringy cheese versus med to high carbon as hard cheese.

[@user-hu4rk7bu9u]

I get up every Saturday morning, turn on KZbin and refresh my subscription feed until your video is posted. Thanks again!

[@samuraidriver4x4]

I have about 5 types of loctite and other brands as a mechanic. Used some the other day as i was replacing a bearing in an aluminium pulley. Bit of 648 and a couple punch marks in the aluminium and good as new. Number 1 tooltip is save your broken HSS drillbits and endmills. You never know when you need a small boring bar. Tiny internal threads, o-ring groove in a small hole? Grab one of the broken drillbit shanks and go to town.

[@joergengeerds360]

If you have an ER collet set already, you can buy a MT ER collet holder. Works great for endmill, reamers, or similar

[@VoidedWarranty]

Work around for the end mill in the tailstock? Hold it in the tool post instead. They work as boring bars if aligned with the end of the flute horizontal.

[@mikefrachel8292]

I've made a couple of those sacrificial parallels totally on purpose.

[@oldfarthacks]

LOL You just haven't lived until you have done the sacrificial thing with the table on say a Haas VS-3 and have cut a slot on a long angle across the whole table. Such fun. OOPS.

[@VoidedWarranty]

Whoah why did this aluminum throw sparks from the carbide end mill !? Oh oops, that's the 123 block under it.

[@grahammorgan9635]

Broken drills can easily be ground with a flat end with some clearance and when used in a partially drilled hole will give you a square bottomed hole that matches the drill size bearing in mind drills measure under the finished hole size.

[@NigelTolley]

Given how cheap drill bits are, even cobalt ones, you can just grind your own fairly easily from a cheap set. After all, when did any of us last break a drill bit? (Though actually, I broke a 1.5mm the other day when the drill fell over. First one in many, many years though.)

[@BobBlarneystone]

Re the hold punch - While making holes in soft materials, e.g. for the installation of grommets, I discovered that chucking the punch in a drill works much better than trying to force or pound the punch through the material.

[@madmodder123]

Love the vid. As a toolmaker we use pilot point drills to precision locate holes on jigs we have to hand drill out in the field, drill a small hole with a drill, up-size it with a pilot point drill bit, and then sometimes ream out the hole with a piloted reamer.

[@utoobuser206]

Due to your intro, i have come to the conclusion that I love you .

[@caskwith]

Great thing about the "diamond" tool holder is that you can buy cheap 6mm square blanks, grind up a load of cutters (do both ends) in a matter of minutes and then never have to touch the grinder again for months because you have loads of sharp cutters on hand.

[@johncrowley5612]

​@@ellieprice363 you are over- complicating things. @caskwith is correct- use 6mm square HSS blanks, ground once in the provided jig and the tool is ready to use.

[@caskwith]

@@ellieprice363 The tool comes with a grinding jig for this purpose.

[@cooperised]

​@@ellieprice363The other commenters are right - the whole point of this tool is that it creates the correct clearances by holding the blank at a compound angle. The blank is square. The diamond shape on the top face is created by grinding that face (and _only_ that face) at a compound angle. The rest are stock faces.

[@bubbleobill267]

A sense of humor is my #1 tool for everything.

[@johnapel2856]

Neat! I had forgotten a couple of those. And yes, Loctite is definitely my friend. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.

[@Emu0181]

Can you do a video on the importance of shop cats?

[@oldfarthacks]

Ah yes, the old cat scan thing.

[@Emu0181]

I mean with all the cat videos on YT, I don't believe there are any on how to check if your cat is within tolerance and properly calibrated

[@utoobuser206]

Cats are NEVER tolerant and cannot be calibrated

[@shysterlicious]

These are my favorite videos from your repertoire. So much learning goes into these, most especially for the beginners.

[@practicalplinking6133]

ER32 collet holders are available in morse taper for tail stocks.

[@UncleKennysPlace]

She has one, for the headstock. Mine fits both, tapers are the same! Still use the end mill holder as noted in the video. Sometimes just to blow away stock.

[@phantom629]

i have a sheet metal worker back ground (aka tin knocker) and i have a roper whitney jr punch #5 that i picked up at a garage sale for $5 25 years ago that pretty much provides me with hole punching, very handy when you loose a few lbs and need a new hole in a belt. they make bigger ones that will punch a variety of hole sizes in 1/4" angle iron and other things. there's even a thing called a combi that will bend and cut, bend, and punch a variety of small straps and angle irons

[@georgewolf7063]

Wow! I'm especially fond of the thin parallels and that "Diamond" tool holder (I wonder if they make those for the 8mm WW lathes)! Oh, and one thing my supervisor taught me about those Scotch Bright wheels is (after you dress them) grind on a scrap of (hard)wood! Not sure if it's the wood fibers or the resin, but it makes the wheel cut metal way more efficiently without getting as hot! ;)

[@michaelmclachlan1650]

Unfortunately the smallest "Diamond" tool holder has an 11mm deep shank and takes a 1/4 inch square insert; it's sized to suit a Myford ML7 or similar sized machine. They were originally sold by Don Burke who did sell a smaller version that took a 3/16 insert and for a while one sized to suit the Unimat 3 - I regret not buying when they were available! There are a few KZbin videos about making your own tangential tool holder so good luck!

[@chilifinger]

Next 10 please. Thank you. 😋

[@julias-shed]

Try round hss in a diamond tool holder the finish is amazing 😀

[@chiparooo]

Great stuff! Will definitely get a set of those thin parallels. Keep these videos coming. Thanks for sharing!

[@robertpearson8798]

I just purchased thin parallels on sale and already have a few of the other things but will add more. I suspect that your next list might include stub drills, I love mine.

[@craigguinn5423]

Great fun, I tend to grin and chuckle and learn a few things each new video. I’ve threatened to make some parallels out of dull band saw blades. I have a couple of sets of adjustable reamers, but I haven’t used them lately. Since adding the DRO, I need a vise stop and a bandsaw table. I put the scotch brite and thin parallels on the list. Thanks again Quinn. It’s so nice to see techniques nicely explained.

[@BSesq]

In a pinch I’ve made a punch on the lathe. Drill a center hole in some O1 rod, then turn an angle on the outside to put an edge on it. Whatever size hole you need, that’s the drill size. Works great for gaskets.

[@ianhumphrey7218]

Great video Quinn, I actually have an ER16 collet chuck for my tailstock, it holds end mills and taps really well when they are needed. My collet chuck also had a draw bar thread thread in the end, so I machined a bolt to enable the auto eject. Just for context, I am in the UK but I have a 1938 9" swing South Bend lathe, with I absolutely love.

[@asciimation]

Knipex plier wrenchs are great. And it's more an electronics tool but handy for thin sheet metal parts, a HT 204 nibbler tool. I actually use that a lot making full sized cars. Very handy cutting bonnet hinge slots.

[@thehollowbox]

Great video! Never knew about the tangential tool holders but they make so much sense. Another parallel if you like the thin ones but want a little different functionality is wavy/ spring parallels. They are also very thin, you can maneuver them so the wave isn't in the way of your holes, and they wont fall over when taking your parts out. You touched on it a little when talking about reamers. But if you can't wait for a reamer and you need an oversized hole. You can really dial in how much oversized a hole will drill by grinding or honing the cutting edge. Grab some scrap material and turn it onto swiss cheese till you get the right size. Love the vids and so glad you and the community are so willing to share all this knowledge built up over lifetimes.

[@joevostoch8768]

As a beginner after watching all of your videos I really appreciate videos like this one. Keep up the great work!

[@theothertonydutch]

The leather hole punch thing is a GOAT. That thing helped me out in so many pinches.

[@bobvilla5064]

Thank You. I have learned so much watching you.

[@iain3411]

I built UL508A boiler control panels. DeWalt pilot point the perfect drill for thin sheet metal. The flutes cut the outside edge first , so no grabbing the last chip like a common drill bit will with sheet metal. Most Hoffman type enclosures we used were close to 16ga thickness. So these drills were great for door holes for pilot lights or a starting hole for a square cut out.

[@davidmoys2374]

Definitely going to have to look into those thin parallels they look awesome. I currently have a 12 inch rule cut in half (approx 3/64" wide) and two 6 inch Rules (approx 1/64" wide) that I keep in my toolbox and don't use for anything else for times when I need thin parallels. They're not perfectly parallel, but have always been close enough for what I need. Fantastic video as always. :)

[@johnkemas7344]

I love my Diamond point tangential tool bit for the lathe! I've been threatening for a while to make one that uses either 3/8 or preferably 1/2 inch tool bits for my larger lathe.

[@TheTacktishion]

The Most valuable tool I learned about from you.... The fixture plate from Little Machine Shop.... That thing is so versatile. Good advice and I took it....! Thanks

[@-old-dog581]

Great video.I’ve had a diamond tangential tool for several years and love it. Don’t know why you don’t see it more.

[@patton446]

for the hole punch: you also have dedicatedd gasket punches. 2 styles are available: 1 is where the gasket is pinched between 2 steel plates with the correct size hole and then you punch ith a flat bottom punch. The second style is a kind of handle on which you screw then needed cutter. the second style is also useful for cutting concentric circles which are useful for pipe gaskets

[@johannriedlberger4390]

Under size Reamer: Run it in reverse and hold a fine whetstone to it Oversize Reamer: Use a 3-edge-scraper and create burrs at the cutting edges of the reamer. Try it in some scrap material until desired diameter is reached. Different cutting fluids also have influence to the diameter. Deburring Holes Backside: Use a small boring bar for thread cutting and scrape the burr away

[@joewhitney4097]

Great video, very helpful ideas Quinn. Thanks for sharing.

[@bradpatterson3306]

Very well thought out! Good, sound recommendations. Thank you!

[@mikeslayer5926]

HEY ,Lady love the loco yer doin quite detailed and shows great skill hole punches are available in larger sizes looking like a chisel chineese freight they can be fairly easily made with common materials but for metal you may need a heat treat oven and possibly a small grinder setup for the lathe for sharpening gaskets not so much but im sure these things , you already know cant wait to see the crazy train runnin off the rails Mike

[@jimb9265]

Thanks for all this info - Very well done!

[@marcfruchtman9473]

Great list. My favorite, Adjustable parallels! Very cool.

[@AjaxCrypto]

Love your show, Thank You. My favorite secret tool is not any single tool but the realization that an fifty year old second hand Starrett or Brown and Sharpe is better than anything new from the local home improvement store.

[@johnsherborne3245]

Couldn’t agree more. I inherited my lathe and mill, separately, along with all sorts of tools and cutters. The old stuff is mostly glorious. I suppose old trash has already been recycled into baked bean tins. 33:02

[@johnsherborne3245]

I loved the thought about playing leapfrog between drills. I have a nifty circular conversion scale which aids jumping between fraction sizes and metric giving a big range of sizes.

[@DavidtheSwarfer]

The alternative to the hole punch is an extending antenna from a transistor radio. Take the segments apart and use the exacto to sharpen the end then use it as a hole cutter. The brass is very thin so be gentle else it will crush

[@VisDeux]

Finally ! A "top ten things you need" post that is actually worth seeing, wouldn't think the internet could produce that one day, but Quinn did. Thanks !

[@Goff100]

I have made thin parallels from metal pallet strapping. The material is easily milled with carbide endmills. The strapping also makes an excellent spring (when bent in a sine wave shape) to keep parallels spread apart in a mill vise. Once at work, we had a problem with Loctite not curing in an assembly of stainless steel screws in an anodized aluminum part. Tech support at Henkel explained that both materials were non-reactive and we needed a primer. We used Loctite Primer 7649.

[@ssrattus]

Thanks Quinn!

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

All good choices and I have most of them. Still need the thin parallels. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

[@christurnblom4825]

I worked in a factory making exercise equipment. We used Loctite 680 to permanently affix an aluminum disk threaded to an iron flywheel. it was the wrong size and we were told later, to disassemble them. We didn't know about heating the parts up (I was 18, cut me some slack) Anyway, most of the time the aluminum threads broke off! That's some amazing chemical engineering.

[@Mr2Xri]

We thank you that you share them with us.

[@davidmcduffie1398]

Thanks for this video, great tip for newbies !

[@davidboose5803]

WOW!! Thanks, Quinn I learned a lot. I would like to see more of this kind of episode. Love You.

[@akfarmboy49]

I’ve been in the trade for many many years I just watch and see what you found important I was still impressed. You did a good job. I think you should make another top 10.

[@whelen35]

I just now did a search to look for parallels that would work on my Taig mill and this video was helpful at the right time.

[@johngayder9249]

Fantastic video. Thanks!

[@theironherder]

1st time viewer, enjoyed the video. I'm just a home repair / hobby DIYer. I didn't think that I'd be able to make a contribution, but my dad showed me how to make reasonably clean holes in leather just by using an ordinary punch on leather backed by sacrificial soft wood. Sure, sometimes you have to really whale on the punch, but the holes are clean. I have never needed holes of any particular dimension, and God knows that the hole punch tool shown can't be so expensive as to need a work around, but if a hole punching tool isn't handy, well, then you need a work around.

[@NigelTolley]

Another killer video! Great work.

[@myradavis2599]

Yes please: trick tools, #11 - 20.😊

[@IstasPumaNevada]

Great video! I'd be happy to see another video with another ten very useful tools.

[@johnkoury1116]

Absolutely incredible!!! Thank you for these tools that I did not know I needed cut kinda actually did.

[@adrianscarlett]

22:40 i had some similar drills from black & decker years ago, been struggling to find replacements. Good to see another brand. I use them for counterbores

[@LucasChoate]

This is great! The loctite info alone is already great!

[@terrytopliss9506]

Very helpful video Quinn, thank you.👍👍

[@Oberkaptain]

Vibratite VC3 is also a great thread locker as well.

[@biglouie69]

And their motto: “Use Vibratite or kiss your nuts goodbye”

[@Farmerupyonder]

Very informative and interesting! Thank you for the great video 😊

[@Tammy-un3ql]

LOVE your channel.

[@t0mn8r35]

Your explanations are excellent.

[@carlwhite8225]

Quinn, this was very helpful. I love your channel and the comedy is always good, Thanks.

[@Gin-toki]

The tangential tool holder is still widely used, it has just been modernised a bit, to use inserts instead of holding a piece of tool steel :) They're used a lot in cnc turning precisely because they allow working on two faces without changing tool.

[@mikevansickle2735]

I love the tack punch. Sometimes I've found the selection of sizes for very small or very large holes. There are hammer punches in a very wide range of sizes that are very affordable. (And with percussive persuasion you can abuse them through harder/ thicker material than the squeeze😊)

[@donziperk]

Some great ideas there. I know you have moved to Western Canada so I hope you are safe with all the fires going on now. We are getting beat up pretty bad in the Okanagan but everyone is helping each other so people are safe and sound.

[@brianhostak3961]

Great information !! Great videos !! Thank you !!

[@9z4clb]

After viewing this, I ordered the set of Tangential Cutting Tools from Eccentric Engineering. Received them last night and just had to try them out at one o'clock in the morning (lol). Wow! these are AWESOME!

[@button-puncher]

545.... YES! I absolutely love that stuff. Seems like threads are so poorly made on big-box store parts these days. 545 makes it so that all of my compressed air equipment stays pressurized for as long as I need. And that other loctite, THANK YOU. I always wondered about it when I saw you using it. OMG. That back side deburring tool. THANK YOU. That's something that has always driven me insane. I've got one of the wobble blade Nogas, and just like you showed, it's not ideal. One of my favorites is the optical center punch. It makes things so much easier, especially when you don't have good lighting. Thanks Quinn. My wallet will soon by lighter but hopefully things will be easier and better.

[@arloames4517]

Look at a Roper Whitney punch. The number 5 makes really neat holes, in convenient sizes, in sheet metal as well as leather and such. Got a used one for the same price as a new leather punch.

[@martyburelsmith462]

Quinn, I may have missed a comment on this, but have you let Mr. Pete know that you can't have every tool? Keep up the great work!

[@stevefrench2276]

Making gasket holes; try using an empty shell casing, use a reloading chamfer and de-bur tool to make a nice sharp edge.

[@gabbymadsen7260]

I wish we could get circle ground end mills. We used them at Boeing to do precision repairs, mainly for freeze plug holes and could hold +/-0.0001 tolerance. The CGEM only cuts in the face and tapers back ever so slightly so the make a beautiful bottom in blind holes and high precision through hole. Our tool grinders custom made them for us (those guys were crazy even for tool grinders), but I wish I could buy them like that from machinist tool suppliers for home work.

[@joseywales6146]

I've often used bullet casings for gasket cutters. .22/ 6mm, .38/ 9mm .45, .50 etc. I'm a sometime machinist and a reluctant horseman but I never thought about using that punch in the shop. Thanks!

[@davidchristensen2970]

Tangential holder for the win. Thank you very much.

[@MrJohnnaz]

I agree with all you posted, would like add height gauge & surface plate, along with a computer close by running your favorite CAD program. Oh maybe two sets of the adjustable parallels.

[@jackrichards1863]

Well, no comment becomes no recommendation, due to an algorithm. So due to another factor I call great information, here is my effort to contribute to the proliferation of this channel. Also note it's simply another great Australian product. Thanks lady!

[@How2Wrench]

Great videos...love the content.

[@justmutantjed]

I have a tack hole punch that I purchased for use in duct tape crafts. Works pretty well, although the adhesive does gum up the punches after some uses.