Identifying Fake 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle Cards

[@markcastanza7918]

What an unbelievably informative video; Dave your videos are a HUGE asset to the collecting community!

[@Bluejacket66]

Thank you Mark

[@reinamartin6397]

Extremely informative video Dave! This is a great reference for anyone considering purchasing this card. Once I hit the lotto and purchase the 52 I'll be referring back to this for sure! Thanks for sharing!!

[@pepinoman9271]

What a great production, appreciate the effort put into this. Thanks for sharing

[@mohawkgaming8788]

Hey pepino...I've watched a few of your vids...your funny and have a great collection...I like the vid were you caught the thief...anyway check out silverjacks vid of his 52 Mantle...it's in a psa holder but the back has all the fake markings...

[@j.bachelor4110]

Hey I comment on most of your videos and I really enjoy them all but, I want to let you know my favorite video was on the altered Gehrig, not because of that particular AMAZING card but because of the teaching and insight you share. NOW, this video is right there with the "altered Gehrig vid" as my fav. Keep doing what you do. Thanks

[@BecauseImCarlos]

Certainly not in the market for one, but a great reference. Thanks for taking the time to put it together, well done!

[@sheblindedmewithrefractors8795]

First off Dave this video was incredible!!!!! Super important information for anyone that ever wants to purchase a 52 Mantle. I didn't realize that there were that many differences between type 1 and type 2. Its all in the details!!!! Thanks for sharing this knowledge Dave!!!!

[@Bluejacket66]

I actually get things mixed up between the 2 myself sometimes

[@dominicperri6262]

Great Job again Dave. I was watching that ESPN shorts of the conterfit autos in the late 90s. Insane.

[@Bluejacket66]

Yeah I bought a lot of fb autos in 90s- I’m sure 80% bad. Even today autos are easily faked. I’d even worry about a slabbed one if it was expensive

[@TRNRAnt]

Tremendous video! Incredible! So many little nuances to notice.

[@DW77ZHP]

I have a type 2 that matches every characteristic described in the video. When inspecting the card, what pixel traits are the standard? I understand some of the black borders should be solid, while the colors are pixelated. Are there pictures of a verified true 52 of the pixel characteristics?

[@rvd-ryanscards4440]

Very informative! I had no idea of these traits. Thank you for taking the time to show this to everyone! This card is obviously the holy grail and I hope to just see one in person someday let alone own one. I bought a porcelain special edition reprint when I was 11, I still have it. That’s probably the closest I’ll come. Again thank you for putting this together

[@Bluejacket66]

Thanks sir subscribing and viewing ryan

[@Bluejacket66]

Thanks Ryan

[@bink7181]

Great video Dave. Watched this a few times and did a Ebay search. Some of the type 2 Mantles in PSA slabs have creases conveniently on the white pixel. I am curious to know if those were fake PSA slabs in your video. You would think PSA would be well aware of the tell tale signs for the 1952 Mantle.

[@Bluejacket66]

There are fake PSA slab/ flips out there And I have no idea how to spot them. Yes, people will age and crease a fake 52 so you can tell if the pixel is missing

[@zengarden8592]

I checked mine out and it looks like its a type 2, but I was also told there is another way to tell if its fake, by using a flash light. shining it on the back and if you see the stat print, then its either a reprint or a fake. Is that true? This can be very confusing.

[@Bluejacket66]

Idk I do know some fake cards will allow More light thru them when held up to a flashlight

[@poormansstack]

Great Info! I just hope that sometime in my life I will have to put this information to use!

[@MartinDee2000]

I wonder why PSA doesn't mention/differentiate between a "type 1" & "type 2"?

[@natas2727]

Good question if it's true they don't... Hopefully this youtuber will answer.

[@Bluejacket66]

I have no idea?!

[@BaseballCollector]

Just an outstanding education Dave. I love it!! Someday when I buy a ‘52 Mantle, this will be my guide.

[@Bluejacket66]

Thanks Mike Ps I’m really going thru the cards in that collection of your friends you inquired about. We’ll chat soon about it

[@FoxCrueCards]

While this card is out of my realm I thank you for the wonderful education...I love to learn and this was fantastic. Thank you so much for sharing! I now want to go and search one of these out just to look at it. Again...thank you so much!

[@Bluejacket66]

I’d imagine 99.9 % of slabbed 52 Mantles are ok. It’s the raw ones you better be sure about

[@GoodfellasNYC]

@@Bluejacket66 good evening sir. I have a type 2 rookie card and everything you are saying here is accurate. But what about the flashlight test? I lit it up and I can see the back of the card. Is that considered fake? Thanks

[@Bluejacket66]

@@GoodfellasNYC remember a photocopy will have all the correct markings and attributes. Beyond that you have to compare the card stock and feel to other 1952 cards. Do the colors look right, does the print look right under a loupe…

[@GoodfellasNYC]

@@Bluejacket66 the colors look right. Looks original to me but not sure.

[@GoodfellasNYC]

Would it be to much trouble to ask if I can email you a picture of the card? Thank you

[@Bowman1951]

One of the most informative videos I've seen in a long time, thanks so much for giving us all of this info...even if the card will rarely be in people's affordable range.

[@Bluejacket66]

Thanks for the views and comments!!!

[@stevesmith9886]

I have a type one, would u look at it and let me know if its worth sending off to be authenticated. It passes all your type one test plus feels to be the same material when i have compared it to other 52 cards. Doesnt glow with a blacklight and a flashlight wont shine threw it all ways i seen to spot a fake card online.

[@Bluejacket66]

[e-mail]

[@paulneumayer7428]

I have this card definitely type 1 as you described, it is in fair shape. Is there anything else I need to know about the card and how do I go about having it graded or do I even bother I would love to send you some pics if possible thanks

[@Bluejacket66]

I would grade it faith PSA or SGC. Their websites have instructions and the proper forms. Any 52 topps mantle should be graded

[@GoodfellasNYC]

What about the color letters in the back of the card? For example, what color are the red letters supposed to be? Mines seem darker. Thanks

[@Bluejacket66]

Should be pretty bold red. I suppose there could be subtle difference. I’d compare to known real copies

[@GoodfellasNYC]

@@Bluejacket66 would it be to much trouble to ask if you could please review my type 2mantle??

[@PabloEscobud1]

I have managed to acquire this card randomly and I wonder if I could send you some pictures to see what you think about it's authenticity? Would be appreciated! It seems to pass all the checks in the video but looks almost too good condition

[@Bluejacket66]

Yes please do

[@jaynesemurfin5621]

At 8:44 you say type 2 not an authentic card after saying earlier it was was. Which is it??

[@Bluejacket66]

Both type 1 and 2 are authentic cards but have the described variations to discern the two. The 311 card was double printed with each variation on the same sheet in the 6th series printing. Sorry about the confusion

[@robertweiss7802]

If you could please help me out I inherited an entire complete set of this 1952 cards and I have this Mickey Mantle card with like I think there's like a thousand other cards too the set is complete and the binder that it's in is a 1952 Topps binder. What should I do or who should I contact

[@Bluejacket66]

Sure, send me some pics to [e-mail]

[@mjhaynes1021]

I don’t plan on ever being able to afford this card but the amount of info in this video is awesome! I have shared with many of my friends in the hobby! I have learned so much from watching your videos over the past few months. Your collecting prowess is way above mine but I get to enjoy these cards through you as if they were my own. Keep on keeping on, good stuff! And I’m a St. Louis guy as well. 👍🏻

[@Bluejacket66]

Thank you so much I guess there’s a couple shown in stl in April One at the machinist Hall on the Rock Road

[@mjhaynes1021]

Bluejacket 66 Yes there is, that one is the 3 day show, usually a pretty good one 👍🏻 Lots of vintage at the ones there. I’ll probably try to go one day. Let me know if you go, I know a couple guys from STL who love your videos, would be cool to meet up!

[@mountainymountain2539]

Does the missing pixel only appear on the second variant?

[@Bluejacket66]

Correct

[@psychdonbaseballcards5137]

Great educational video Dave. Thanks for putting this together.

[@sharpedgepictures]

So according to this i have an authetic type 2. How does one sell such a thing...?

[@Bluejacket66]

…….huh?

[@jamieclendenin6804]

Mine is type 1

[@garysmith5268]

The grading services have no way to reliably scan the cardboard paper and inks to ensure proper 1952 dating?....before slabbing? Pretty much any lab could do that. PSA and SGC don’t utilize this tech?

[@forzendikar9908]

A must watch video for anyone interested in buying a 52 Topps Mantle. Great video, I had no idea there were 2 types let alone all of the things to look for. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@johnreed1779]

I read that the "h" lines up with both "s" and the seam goes right to left on the Type 1 back and the Type 2 back is what you described here. Is this true? Thank you.

[@Bluejacket66]

Correct. I really messed up explanation on backs making one of them sousing fake

[@PilotsLoungeFishing]

Thank you for this informative video. How can I get in touch with you, as I have a few questions.

[@Bluejacket66]

Lightningshack25@gmail Ig @bluejacket66

[@SaNsToRmS24]

Both authentic type 1 and type 2 have differences in the front, what about the back?

[@Bluejacket66]

The backs are different in the way the stitching points in the ball, and how the lettering lines up on the right hand side of the card. I tried to explain it but made it sound like one way was fake... which is I correct. I outlined the 2 different backs in the video. Disregard and commentary that indicates one back is fake. Backs are just different in type 1 and 2

[@TheValdivia1]

Dave, so most cards on ebay are fake? 80% of the cards listed don't have the T align with both S. I'm curious to know as I am interested on buying one, but got pushed away after watching your video. Thank you

[@Bluejacket66]

Note my title says “ ignore commentary on backs” I really messed that up. While trying to show differences between type 1 and 2 backs I made them sound fake

[@garycarrock5915]

Dave was the type II a second print run and if so, how come it is different did they re-layout the card?

[@Bluejacket66]

I have no idea Gary! My dad was a 52 Topps guy but I know very little about the Set

[@garycarrock5915]

I would love to know the process of printing those cards back in the day. I worked for a printer many years ago and the types of errors that would occur were usually ink loss and over runs like the missing dot and the extended corners. There was always the same plate used unless it got destroyed somehow. Which may have been the case in the type II differences. Having two types makes me wonder if there was three types?

[@garycarrock5915]

I did some reading on the high series and it appears that both type I and type II were printed from the same plate as a double print. Interesting that there would be differences on the same plate.

[@Bluejacket66]

Doesn’t make sense..... but I surely don’t know the answer

[@garycarrock5915]

By the way Dave, great video! It got me hyped up on the 1952 set again. I am going to dig out my 2001 Tuff Stuff magazine and reread the article about the dumping of the high series cards in the ocean around 1960.

[@ericapp17]

Even though I'll never own a "real" version, I do thank you for the very thorough video. I never knew there were two different types. I was looking at my 1983 reprint of this card as I was watching this and found it possesses some of the differing traits from both types, as well as none of the traits. Great job with this video!

[@Bluejacket66]

Thanks for the comments Happy collecting

[@GoodfellasNYC]

@@Bluejacket66 Good evening, this video is extremely informative. I have a type 2 ungraded that was given to me 30 years ago. What about a light test on the type 2. Does that apply or work? Just asking because even though my card is exactly like your video, does it mean it's authentic? Thanks

[@shamrockrmf1522]

Thanks so much Dave! Such valuable information for our community!

[@sycardbreaks2745]

Im confused? So their were 2 type of this card when it was produced? Type 1 and type 2? So you can have 2 types of authentic mantles? Or does the type 2 mean it's a fake card period?

[@Bluejacket66]

No there are 2 styles of 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle .... Type 1 and Type 2. The videos intent was to show the distinguishing features of each. They are very similar except the differences I showed No difference in value between the 2 types

[@sycardbreaks2745]

@@Bluejacket66 they are both authentic cards then... correct...

[@Bluejacket66]

Syed Ahmed ... yep

[@tommy..980]

What’s the price difference between type 1and 2 if they both are authentic?????

[@Bluejacket66]

Same price

[@jeffairtime3412]

Great video. Very informative. I've heard many of these facts before but you really simplified it. Good stuff!

[@Bluejacket66]

Thank Jeff, I appreciate that

[@Idisc0rdI]

Dave, I have a 1953 topps mantle and a few other ones but I can’t find any information on the cards so I’m not sure if they are authentic or not. I REALLY NEED YOUR HELP PLEASE! I have no where else to go to find out what’s up with them! Please please please help me

[@Bluejacket66]

What information are you needing? You can send me pics but it’s hard to give definitive opinions of pics Are you on IG

[@Idisc0rdI]

@@Bluejacket66 yeah I am on Instagram would you like for me to give you my email or I could even give you my cell phone number whatever’s convenient basically I’m trying to do a reprint of the cards hi just need to know if you want my phone number email Instagram Facebook tell me what is the best way for you and thank you so much for responding I cannot tell you how many times I’ve tried to get different people to look at them and numerous people have said they’ve see nothing out of the ordinary but I just have a bad feeling so let me know what you want me to do please and thank you so much

[@Idisc0rdI]

@@Bluejacket66 I want you tell me what you think about them. I can FaceTime home

[@Bluejacket66]

@@Idisc0rdI what do you mean “ I’m trying to do a reprint” Are these cards you made?

[@lannydante9390]

I just bought a 1952 Mickey Mantle card and I believe its a type 2, now that I know its fake, is this card STILL worth something? Thanks for your help.

[@ryankepke8642]

How might I send you a few photos to help me determine my card is the real deal or fake?

[@jasonvance1731]

Dave, are the backs supposed to be the same on Type1 vs Type2?

[@Bluejacket66]

Different stitch directions and different right border letter alignments. My description of backs made it sound like one was fake, but it’s just difference between types

[@maritzatoledo6923]

How much does type 1 go for?

[@Bluejacket66]

Type 1 and 2 go for same pricing. Depends on condition/ grade

[@ryankepke8642]

another question: everything said about the back are you saying you were off on the information?

[@Bluejacket66]

Yes one back is correct for type 1 and the other back type was correct for type 2. I made it confusing

[@Mstevensyt-qt1to]

Thank you for this video. My husband and I bought a Topps 1952 Mickey Mantle at a yardsale, everything about the card seems real. Is there a way I could send you some pictures to get your opinion on the card.

[@Bluejacket66]

Lightningshack25@gmail

[@Schmurph3607]

Awesome video , I was just looking at a listing on EBay for an extremely off centered and beat up RC but the back is way off, the arrows go right to left and the S's line up with the H ..Thank you for saving me alot of cash

[@tommy..980]

And on the back you said there different... But you showed the back of one of them... was it the type 2 or type 1???? And what is the difference between the two???? Very confusing understanding the back

[@Bluejacket66]

Title says ignore content on the backs... I made it too confusing Main difference is the direction the stitching on the ball on the back points

[@johnbailey5753]

is there a difference between type I and II on the back or are both versions the same?

[@Bluejacket66]

They are different That why I eliminated that part discussion- I made it confusing

[@howardwidener7349]

My question also

[@MrFisherbike]

Very informative video brother. Thanks for taking the time to show us the differences.

[@word.723]

The common practice of fakes is to have paper worn at key places on the card like the missing pixel locations. There is a Mantle like this on eBay right now.

[@Bluejacket66]

That’s a little trick they play to try hide a fake

[@patrickbaer3742]

What is the price difference in price between type 1 type two? Tnx patrick

[@Bluejacket66]

No difference!

[@Bluejacket66]

There are certainly differences in prices between 1952 mantles, however if you have a type 1 and a type 2 with same grade and condition the prices will be the same. Period. A quick search of the topic confirms that statement .

[@cscottriffle]

Great video. Hopefully I can put it to work someday!

[@Bluejacket66]

Thanks for watching!

[@nufcedcards]

Great video, Dave. Thanks for sharing this info. It is disconcerting that such an easy to identify fake could end up slabbed by a major TPG...

[@Bluejacket66]

I think it’s very very rare Andrew. In fact I’d wager that 99.9 % of fake cards in slabs..... ARE IN FAKE SLABS!!!!! There is some very very scary stuff that’s been coming out of Mexico for years. High end stuff in fake PSA slabs.

[@nufcedcards]

A good reminder for us all to carefully inspect anything we consider buying, thoroughly research the cards and become as knowledgeable as possible, and share info like this...

[@daunteziser2572]

I have type 1 and the front lines up perfectly but when you go the back side the baseball stitching is the wrong way.

[@Bluejacket66]

Disregard my commentary on backs. The stitching can go either way depending on the front type

[@JIMMBAY1]

Awesome video & content. Grrreat training, educational video. I thank thee, Dave for sharing all...

[@pennoisit]

I don't care what other videos come to screen in 2019, this will be the standout for me. Thank you for imparting your knowledge for the benefit of the uninformed.

[@Bluejacket66]

Very kind, thank you

[@SilverJackify]

Dave, great video! Why is it that you only covered the back of a type 2? I think people will be confused by watching your video on a type 1 since the back is very different versus what you showed (type 2)

[@Bluejacket66]

ThAts why I edited to ignore my portion on the back... it didn’t come off right and ended up being confusing . I shouldn’t have mention backs as they can be very difficult

[@SilverJackify]

Bluejacket 66 Ok got it. Sorry, must have missed that. Just also wanted to make sure you agreed that was a type 2 back.

[@johnfitzwilson3391]

Confusing because PWCC auction shows their 1952 Topps Mantle graded NMT- 8 by PSA with stitching on the baseball on the back going the opposite direction as shown here as legit, and the esses do not line up with the “t” in the word “right”. Yikes.... now what do we do.?

[@Bluejacket66]

John My title says ignore the back. I did a poor job in describing back differences of type 1 and 2. Made it confusing and therefore implies backs were fake. Please disregard commentary on backs and I noted in the video title

[@123precision8]

Very thorough and informative. Great explanation. Interesting even though I'll never be able to afford one.

[@Bluejacket66]

I don’t have on either!

[@clevelandsportscards1986]

Very good information dave. I enjoy your content. Thanks for sharing.

[@Bluejacket66]

Thank you I made the parts on backs confusing as both back versions are authentic, just different depending on the front type

[@tylerromano9307]

are there any mickey mantle with dark blue ?

[@Bluejacket66]

The background has subtle shade differences. Not dark blue though

[@Smitherly85]

Bluejacket66 do you think you can help me authenticate my mickey mantle card so i know whether or not to get it graded

[@Drucom1]

Can you do a 1951 bowman fake video?

[@Bluejacket66]

Those are not really tough. I don’t think I’m comfortable spotting them

[@EricKarlin]

Why don't grading companies differentiate type 1 versus type 2? Which one is more rare? That would have to add value

[@Bluejacket66]

I don’t know why they don’t. As far as value, there is no difference

[@EricKarlin]

@@Bluejacket66 have you ever come across a fake that matched type 1 or type 2 but was obviously a reproduction?

[@Bluejacket66]

Sure, many fake cards are essentially a photocopy so will LOOK exactly like a real card. So you have to look at it under a loupe ( see my “ identifying a fake 1951 mantle”) and feel the card stock, use a black light etc

[@MrKattyWhompus]

wait, so is the information on spotting a fake back of a mickey mantle incorrect?

[@Bluejacket66]

That’s right. I was pointing out the differences in a type 1 and type 2 backs. The way stitching on ball and letters line up are unique to type 1 and type 2 . I didn’t state which back type correlates with which front.... so just ignore the back talk

[@deangearhartyeahicollectit2439]

Great video! You have opened my eyes to things I was not aware of besides the dark marks on the bat. Someday I plan to buy this card and this video will be a major help thank-you

[@Bluejacket66]

Thanks Dean

[@Jchest40]

Hey! I have a type 2 and I think it is authentic. Would you take a look at it for me?

[@Bluejacket66]

Sure... there’s other considerations. How it feels, the print dot matrix under loupe etc

[@christiansinopoli6933]

My card is a type 1 how and it fits all the needs. So is it an automatic real

[@Bluejacket66]

Of course not. A photocopy would fit all the criteria. Raw cards need to be held, looked at under a loupe etc

[@christiansinopoli6933]

@@Bluejacket66 gotcha, I’m taking my card to a place to get graded it’s in exton PA. Do you know if that’s a good place?

[@Bluejacket66]

Taking it to get graded? PSA is in California and SGC is in Florida. Idk where Beckett is..... what do you mean?? There are 3 major third party grading services. Do you mean you’re taking it to a shop to have it looked at! Send me a pic of it to 314-973-1803 or [e-mail]

[@brandonbrown3899]

how do you tell if its real but a miss print? iv got to looks just like them but the back is off a bet could it be real but just miss print?

[@Bluejacket66]

I can’t answer that Brandon, but please ignore my commentary on the different backs... it’s confusing.

[@brandonbrown3899]

@@Bluejacket66 mybe I could send you some pictures of them you look at them? you take a look tell me what you think.

[@Bluejacket66]

Sure

[@brandonbrown3899]

@@Bluejacket66 ok you got email or facebook

[@Bluejacket66]

Lightningshack25@gmail

[@nicholasyoder]

How do they end up in real graded holders?

[@Bluejacket66]

That is very very rare. Even if that’s the case it may be the holder was fake or tampered with

[@WeskerGriff]

Incredible video Dave! Learned a lot! Thank you!

[@joschmo1960]

I came across a type 2, how could I send you photos for you to look

[@Bluejacket66]

[e-mail]

[@joschmo1960]

@@Bluejacket66 just sent thanks

[@AbelinVegas]

Have no words. Seen this twice because its that good. I did not know there are two versions. Is there a price difference between two? If so, how many people have paid T1 price and got a T2. Great, great video. Thanks for the info.

[@Bluejacket66]

No price difference. I prefer the type 1 with full border around the logo.

[@petermikita7891]

Great job Dave. Love low tech. I grew up on it! Lol. Thank you!

[@Bluejacket66]

Hi Peter, thanks!

[@Kitchell63]

Hey man! I recently got 2 of these Mantle’s...they were in an antique store and the woman I bought them from didn’t know anything about them. I think I have a type 1, and a type 2...can I email you pics and get your thoughts on them?

[@Bluejacket66]

Yes [e-mail] I’ll get back to you whenever I can. I’m taking care of COVID patients

[@darincole553]

so type 2 is also authentic ? Thanks

[@Bluejacket66]

Yes! Just pointing out the difference of both types and the traits each should have ( ignore my talk on the backs... way too confusing)

[@Dr_GraysGhost_420]

So they only ran 2 production runs of this card. No other way to only have two types of registration defects

[@WanderingWeekends]

assuming the type 1 is more desirable?

[@Bluejacket66]

No difference. Some may prefer one over the other I guess

[@billthehofcollector4525]

Excellent Video ! this is the perfect thing for prospective buyers. It will also get a TON of views and hits inside and outside the community. I just hope the people producing fakes don’t learn from their mistakes.

[@mikebenneig653]

Tha is for the video. Could I show you a 51 Bowman and let me know what you think? On the top of bat theres a brown line that runs parallel with the black line. Thanks Mike B in NY

[@Bluejacket66]

Identifying Fake 1951 Bowman Mickey Mantle Baseball Cards

[@indianacreekwalker4474]

so quick question on the type 1, whoever made that card just has to blunt the bottom edge and its official? seems very very sketchy to buy these cards. There are many people who know what you have taught us. IN you honest opinion do you feel there are some that you just can't tell that even you cannot tell? Just curious since there are only about 7 - 9 places to make sure you have

[@Bluejacket66]

Oh sure- all of the identifiers can be replicated.... just throw one on a laser printer copier!!!!! There are many reproductions out there and people use those to sell ( “ I found this at a garage sale and don’t know if it’s real). Many of those DO NOT have all the identifiers I pointed out- so my video was to show those. Also the video points out the difference of type 1 and type 2... which is nice to know. Bottom line I would NEVER by a raw 52 Mantle without holding it. Comparing the feel to real 52s. Looking at the print pattern under a loupe. I’d even be nervous buying a graded one from anyone other than a reputable auction house. All in all, if you buy graded you should be good... because yes, even fakes can have all the known identifiers

[@indianacreekwalker4474]

@@Bluejacket66 i buy a ton of storage units bluejacket, and i really appreciate the video man. At the very least like you said its a great starting point to throw out 90 percent of the fakes. TY!

[@quadoscorner7134]

Excellent video my friend, wow, I had no clue. Thank you very much, that cards is every collectors dream, well done. 👍👍

[@Bluejacket66]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@michaelrusso2825]

Ok but what if we find one how do we sell it

[@soundofthegardenwatc]

Where u located? I have cards that I need someone to check out. I don't trust sending them in to psa. If I go to a local shop, I don't want them to try to examine them in the back. Lol

[@Bluejacket66]

I’m in St Louis

[@71fluffdaddy]

Bluejacket there is a 1952 topps Mickey Mantle psa 05300351 up for $92,999 with all the strikes as a fake the S's are not lined up with the t and the stitches are right to left. So how can it be authenticated? Check it out please.

[@Bluejacket66]

Paul, the backs are difficult. Stitching direction different in type 1 and 2 as is hiw letters line up. I did not explain it well so disregard my commentary on backs. If it’s in a holder chances are very very good the card is fine

[@71fluffdaddy]

Ok thanks buddy!

[@samuelgarcia1030]

Quick question type one on the original all the stitches are pointing left type 2 there all facing right, you are telling us that all original should be pointing right, so all this companies that are giving them original slab should be behind bars

[@Bluejacket66]

As per title - disregard comments on the back. Stitching direction and letter lineups differ between the two types. Both backs authentic

[@cubancollector3467]

Thanks For Educating The Community Dave Valuable Information Shared.

[@21eddiest]

Good presentation, but the backs of the Type 1 vs. Type 2 is different. The stitching on the baseball runs right to left on the Type 1, and the Rig"h"t, Dimaggio'"s", and Kansa"s" all line up vertically on the Type 1.

[@gregdobrick7788]

Another great video I hope it helps someone. I was at a card show in Cincinnati today for a little while and I heard two teenagers talking about this blue jacket guy on you tube. That officially makes you Mick Jagger (a rock star)

[@Bluejacket66]

I’m not that old!!!! Haha

[@MatthewCSeuferwindowsheaven]

very informative! felt like I was in a class.Thank You!

[@Bluejacket66]

👍

[@neiltherealdeal1259]

Thanks for another great video Dave

[@robscards6313]

vert educational...great job and thanks for informing us Dave!

[@MaxPowerBaseball]

very thorough and informative. dont know that i'll ever own one, but now will know how to spot the fakes. thanks!

[@bigmacfanatic25]

Now this was a very nice learning experience! Is there two types of authentic cards because it was a double printed card? A different print run? Excellent video, thank you for sharing the knowledge!

[@Bluejacket66]

I think there were 2 print runs. I would guess type 2 was second run but idk. I’d guess plate was screwed up on second printing but idk

[@bigmacfanatic25]

One more question. Is one type more rare or valuable than the other?

[@Bluejacket66]

No same values

[@ryankepke8642]

@Bluejacket 66 The type 1 card is an real/authentic card (money card) correct? And as I understand you were saying the type 2 card you have in video was an imitation/fake. Do I have a correct understanding? OR are they both fakes?

[@Bluejacket66]

There are 2 variations of the 52 mantle. Type 1 and type 2 I pointed out the identifying characteristics of each. The type 1 and type 2 must have the unique identifiers for each card. I showed some examples of each type that don’t have the characteristics seen on authentic cards

[@ryankepke8642]

When you say Type 1 and type 2 is this synonymous with as you have it in your video, authentic 1 and authentic 2? Thank you sir.

[@richardc5064]

Just finished watching this wonderfully informative video. I have a question that I hope you can answer. One commenter mentioned seeing cards sold at auction with a different back than you describe. I have such a card (absolutely passes the Type 1 test you describe, but doesn't pass the test for the back of the card). A response to that comment indicated that Type 1 and Type 2 cards have different backs. Is that accurate? or is that the "DISREGARD COMMENTS ON FAKE BACKS" disclaimer in your video title. THANKS>

[@Bluejacket66]

Yes ignore the commentary on backs. I did a poor job in that. There are 2 different back types. The backs for type 1 and 2 are different. The back of a type 1 the ball stitching points to the left and the S lines up under the h in “right”. On a type 2 back the ball stitching points to the right and the s lines up under the t in “ right”

[@cliffordmilam9624]

I believe I have an authentic T206 honus Wagner card... how do I tell if it is authentic? I believe with all my being that it is.

[@lindalantz5382]

so my fits type one but no black border.. must be a fake, right?

[@Bluejacket66]

Must be……

[@lindalantz5382]

@@Bluejacket66 I have an certificate of authenticity from the place I bought it but I guess that doesn't mean anything. You sure it is fake without that border?

[@Josh-pu4hj]

Can I send you some pics of a mantle found in a bunch of old stuff that I would like to know if its fake or real

[@Bluejacket66]

Without holding it in hand and using a loupe I don’t think I can help you beyond the video. Usually one quick look will tell you though