BMW 5 Series E60 Battery Cable Recall How to DIY: BMTroubleU

How to perform the battery cable recall on a BMW 5 series E60. PLEASE NOTE I NO LONGER DO REQUESTS AS I DONT WORK FOR BMW ANY MORE BUT IM STILL HAPPY TO ANSWER QUESTIONS

[@TheBoulKash]

Just found this channel and didn’t really pay attention to the name, but when he said “...welcome to BMTroubleU”, I cackled.

[@BMTroubleU]

make sure your cable has a white cover on the end- that way you know its been done. otherwise this is a fairly common issue with newer BMW's, it could be a parasitic current draw (draining the battery when the car is supposed to be off), it could be a lack of driving (do you only drive short distances?) or it may require a software update to stop control units from staying awake. also if you have comfort access and leave the keys near to the car it could keep the car 'awake' draining the battery

[@BMTroubleU]

disconnecting the battery does clear all the radio stations and some control unit memories, but is 99% of the time perfectly safe and doesnt cause any issues.

[@cwrob1172]

I assume the new White cover is not really any different than the black one other than the color. It is only replaced to indicate the recall check has been done?

[@BMTroubleU]

as much as i appreciate passive aggression & people with a sense of entitlement, your withheld comment which reads "Hey, thanks for NEVER answering my question regarding the part number for the new battery cover" is a bit much seeing as i have added to every video an annotation and notes to say i no longer work for BMW. if i wasnt in the process of changing jobs at the time you commented im sure i wouldve replied. if you want the part number pull your head in, ring a BMW dealership and ask them.

[@BMTroubleU]

get a fault code read out for direction, software update from the dealership and try a a parasitic draw test- open boot, lock car (and boot lock using flat head to push in lock all the way), connect amps clamp to negative battery cable and observe the amperage after 10 minutes. if over 500ma start removing fuses from the fuse box in the boot- if amperage drops suddenly when a certain fuse is pulled then you know which circuit is staying on and can isolate the component responsible

[@BMTroubleU]

the recall states that it may, in isolated circumstances, cause fire ( probably due to arcing near the carpet). lots of recalls are saying that they may cause fire though, so i'd take it with a pinch of salt. as to starting and charging i'd say it would cause an issue but i am yet to find a single vehicle where the white retainer isnt clipped in properly. thanks for taking an interest in my channel

[@BMTroubleU]

the cable that you disconnect for this job goes directly to the starter motor and under bonnet jump point, it doesnt disrupt voltage to the fuse-box and control units. if you do simply disconnect the battery it wont require registration, thats only if you replace the battery with something different/newer/bigger (although there are many guys ive spoken to who have no issues without registering a new battery).

[@mirlindh]

I had a same problem with my E60 for 7 years a go , and BMW in Malmö (Sweden) replaced the plus cable which costed me 1300 euro´s aprx 1490 USD, and seeing you how easy you solve the problem it makes me angry and disappointed and cheated from BMW dealer. Its a shame for BMW ,

[@paulbarber8450]

Thanks that was very helpful, precise, well explained, with no "bull"👍I'll be checking that tomorrow. Take care, Keep safe..😉

[@BMTroubleU]

yea jason- all E60 5 series will require this recall as far as i know. that means yours too

[@BMTroubleU]

that SFZ is part of the steering column- the twin firing drivers airbag circuit- the section of the seering wheel you use for the horn. take that off and measure the resistance of the two then you'll know whether its ok or not, and dont forget the plug connections on it are special in that they short out as soon as you unplug them. it wont cause the airbag to go off but for the purposes of testing your better off testing with it plugged in otherwise you may get a false open circuit reading.

[@BMTroubleU]

a common issue in your year range. check your alternator output using a volt meter and amps clamp. if that is ok then perform a parasitic draw test- open boot, lock car (and boot lock using flat head to push in lock all the way), connect amps clamp to negative battery cable and observe the amperage after 10 minutes. if over 500ma start removing fuses from the fuse box in the boot- if amperage drops suddenly when a certain fuse is pulled then you know which circuit is staying on.

[@Bullsheetbob]

Yes. I will have to find a good auto electrician now. As the one I spoke to today also said he would hardwire it. .lol. Thanks.

[@BMTroubleU]

thats a good question. my el ford falcon used to run without the positive terminals on but i dont think a bmw will. thats not the way to test an alternator in any case- you'll need a multimeter or amps clamp to test it (best actually with an oscilloscope but theyre a bit more expensive). the voltage on a multimeter (testing at the battery terminals when the engine is running) shouldnt be lower with all electrical loads on (ac, headlights, screen, etc) compared to having them off.

[@SLADE330]

Hi thanks for the reply. the dealer fixed the car, a new mechetronics unit, cost them $2600 got the car back last friday its all good now

[@BMTroubleU]

you may have to repeat at the fusebox behind the glovebox if you dont get an obvious change, but remember to do everything you can to ensure the car is in ''sleep mode'' when youre doing this- any touch of the key, doors or lights or locks can stuff up your test. let me know how you go

[@BMTroubleU]

try updating to latest software integration level (at dealership)- if that doesnt work more than likely new CIC/CCC control unit

[@johnroberts7938]

Could this recall cause the idrive to throw up a central electronic failure?

[@BMTroubleU]

its just a cover and grease, but yes at the dealership. most likely itll be a job for them to do on goodwill/warranty

[@BMTroubleU]

if you speak to a dealership explaining that its a well know recall (maybe even show them this video) they should know what your talking about. truth is changing the covers is only a visual check for dealerships to know theyve done the recall. the main point is that the clips that hold the thread underneath the cable are correctly installed, and also put the dielectric grease on.

[@Peregar4ik]

Thank you for your reply, ill just buy the grease then) have a great day

[@mblaise7]

Thanks LLoyd....i will try that tomorrow....I have noticed that the negative battery pole sparks when removing the cable...

[@BMTroubleU]

the car shutting down is weird- i'd expect limp home mode but not shutting off. the gearbox electrical plugs seal and sump gaskets are common issues in these, but i recommend taking an oil sample out from the fill plug on the left hand side. if the oil is black, pungent smelling and has tiny silver flecks in it it'll be a big problem. e53's have very similar issues and speaking to a few other guys on here the options are replace or rebuild. ive tried oil changes/reprogramming/etc but no success.

[@handsomemog]

cheers again for your help mate,i'll check it out..

[@BMTroubleU]

sweet as mate, glad youve got a fix

[@hman05]

Hello mate, fantastic video. I have lost all electrics in my car, no windows, no -, no air con. It was flickering and playing up but now dead completely. New alternator and battery installed. The problem persists. Should I be checking for the battery cable area? I'm wondering if my symptoms are indicative of a battery cable issue? (I'VE had the recall before)

[@BMTroubleU]

It's easy enough to check this area to ensure it's correctly fitted. I would recommend checking with a multimeter between the battery positive terminal and the end of this cable to ensure they have continuity. It sounds like you could have a bad IBS (intelligent battery sensor). It's usually integrated into the positive terminal and is meant to cut the power when you have a crash to avoid fires. But if it plays up badly it can cause the issue you're having. Otherwise it might be a bad earth cable or a bad fuse somewhere. Best of luck mate

[@hman05]

@@BMTroubleU UPDATE I had a look in the boot, under spare tyre area and immediately saw brown water, plus horrible burnt smell. Then I saw that the mpm had completely burned so bad the plastic is melted, you cant even read the part numbers. So scary that there was a mini fire in my boot. Do you think replacing this could fix my issues?

[@BMTroubleU]

@@hman05 that would be a good start. You may still need to replace a fuse or the IBS as well, but that's a great start. Good job. You're on the right path

[@hman05]

UPDATE 2: As well as a blown and melted MPM I found fuses 60 and 52 blown. Thank you so much for your guidance. I am one step closer to solving this issue UPDATE 3: New MPM installed. Fuses changed. Dash and electrics back on. Idrive remains off but im sure thats s fuse issue. Thank God i can now open my windows, use aircon, see my fuel guage!

[@BMTroubleU]

if you havent already tried this then it costs very little to do it. if your car is still running then i doubt the component itself would be faulty (although i wouldnt rule it out, there may be something like an internal check feature that has gone bad)- check all the wiring, plugs and so forth for continuity first. 700 bucks aint cheap, whats your options for getting one from a wrecking yard?

[@richardriddick9612]

I have a 93f9 code in srs system, active head restraint in driver seat. Found that video while searching for answers. Cleared the code and it has returned after two days. My car is a 520d from 2008 with 219k miles on the clock. What would be your next step in order to fix it? Great collection of videos you have here by the way.

[@juniord1182]

can you do a video on how to re-install the door handle on a bmw e60. thanks

[@handsomemog]

Fault Code 9AFF stored on SFZ. Resistance firing circuit, safety battery terminal, too high, its on the same circuit as the airbags, thanks for your reply and help..

[@mortoncg1018]

Thanks for your video buddy I have bmw e60 520i 2004 the ac is working sometimes and mostly doesn’t work when I took it to checkup the mechanic told me positive battery gives low power and the problem is the intelligence battery sensor damaged and problem is we couldn’t find this sensor in the whole country my question is do you think that is the main reason of my issue ? I don’t want to order this part abroad for nothing . Thanks for your reply

[@BMTroubleU]

I highly doubt that the IBS would cause an intermittent issue specifically in the air con. If it's obviously damaged then it should be replaced anyway. When you say the AC works sometimes do you mean 1. the air sometimes doesn't blow out of the vents OR 2. The air sometimes isn't cold If the air doesn't blow out of the vents sometimes and it's worse when you turn it to particular fan speeds, then I'm 99% sure the problem is the fan speed resistor. They are a very common part to fail

[@mortoncg1018]

@@BMTroubleU thank you for the info what I mean is I have the fan always it works perfectly my problem is with the air compressor most of the time it doesn't turn on I haven't cold air and I checked everything about it it has enough coolant in the bottle no leaking but the problem is low power. Sorry for disturb I really appreciate any advice

[@Bullsheetbob]

Hi mrbmt.. Thanks for that cable. I'll check it out. As for the belt pre tensioner/airbag light, I've had it reset a few times now and it comes back randomly. It never came on prior to me having the Battery cable done. That's why I was thinking it may be something to do with it. I've had it out on a bmw machine and it was showing high voltage/current in the drivers side belt pre tensioner. And in the wiring but not the actual pre tensioner. One bmw indi said he gets them all the time and they hard wire, removing the plug. But I don't want to do that.

[@BMTroubleU]

yea, i wouldnt do that either. i dont think correlation equals causation with the cable recall, it sounds like a bad contact seeing as it comes on randomly. i dont know what the tech would mean by high voltage? there shouldnt be voltage on an airbag wiring component at all as far as i understand. voltage is what triggers the thing. i would take it to an auto elec mate

[@BMTroubleU]

theyll probably do it for free seeing as its a known recall, so yes. but call ahead first just in case they wanna charge you something for it- all dealerships are different

[@BMTroubleU]

no, it wouldnt. this is the starter motor/altenator and battery jump cable and has nothing to do with the airbags as far as i know. the high resistance faults i have come across in order of possibility are either seat mat sensors, control unit or wiring .can you elaborate on the details of fault code at all? i would look it up at work but I dont work weekends

[@chrissyboin]

Very good video!

[@BMTroubleU]

if i get one in i'll try to get a video posted on removal and testing mate, but no promises... i might not get one in for ages

[@Bullsheetbob]

Hi there mr bmwtroubleu. I own an e60 530 d 2005. I'm having an issue with the belt pre tensioner/airbag light. It Keeps coming on. It has been reset but it Keeps coming back. I've had it checked on 2 BMW computers. One said the wiring under the drivers seat was the problem. one said there was extra electricity to the belt pre tensioner.. or somthing like that. All I've had done to it is the battery cable recall in this video. Which was done by bmw. I've read Sonewhere that there is something on the Battery cable that has a mini explosive in it that goes off in an accident. And if thats not connected properly If causes the above mentioned fault. What u say. ? P.s. love your videos. Wish I had the knowledge of working on bmw. Oh and can u recommend a decent reset tool. Thanks.

[@johnbarona1]

I forgot to let you know when there is a passenger in the front seat and your driving if the seat belt is not connected you dont get the chime that usually goes off any more.

[@BMTroubleU]

the radio and cic/ccc control unit are separate. also try the software update

[@BMTroubleU]

oh- you did mean an e70 didnt you? if you have a e53 x5 its a bit more involved- have to take out the spare wheel, 4x13mm bolts on the black metal plate under the spare wheel, then its the brown cable

[@ES-yb8qf]

Maybe you answered this question before but there is too many comments to got through. I took my 2007 BMW 525i to get the Matt Sensor replaced bc there was recall. I thought that would have my "Seatbelt & Airbag" light disapear but it didnt. Sales rep cant tell me how to fix it until i pay them the diagnostic fee but he did say it has to do something with the battery cable. Can you please tell me if I replace the battery cable will it make my lights disapear if so what cable do i need to buy? Thank you so much

[@BMTroubleU]

sorry for taking so long to reply, ive been away for a while. sorry i cant guarantee what your issue is without diagnosing it. ive never seen airbag lights caused by battery cable issues. its much more likely to be the steering wheel airbag because theyre fairly common but i dont want you to spend any money on replacing parts if you dont have to. have you found out what it was since you commented here?

[@davidjrlebron]

One more. Sorry. The other day I was idle at a red light and the Transmission Fault error came up and the car shut down. I put it in park and it started up but the message was still there and the drive felt like first gear all the way home. Started up the next day and the message was gone but this time while driving the message came up again and has been coming up randomly for the past week. Oh its a 2007 525i. I bought it used but was fine for the 2 years i've had it up to this. Thanks.

[@michaelrobertson5195]

Hi, Great videos and thank you for making yourself available to us all. I have a 2010 323i sedan 6 cycle petrol. I was driving my car as happy as can be and parked it. When I returned 20 mins later the car was electrically dead. When I inserted the key there were no dash lights, no horn...absolutely nothing at all. The battery is about 3 months old (is non-BMW but assured by Repco that the battery model was for my car). I had it installed professionally (non-BMW mechanic). I did notice the morning that the car died, that my clock needed re-setting. Other than that, the car started fine, drove fine. Could it be the battery cable / fuse box connector / recall issue that I have seen in forums? Thank you. Regards, Michael

[@BMTroubleU]

gearbox issues on both the x5 e53, as well as others including yours. read the comments from my x5 common issues video and you'll get an idea of what youre up against

[@doylesburg400]

Could this cause a check battery terminal error? I have a 2008 E60 and it has been pretty cold the past few weeks with temps dropping below 0 F. One morning I went to start the car and the RPM's were fluctuating wildly causing a Service Engine Soon light before the rpm's finally settled back to normal. The SES light went out after a couple of days. A few days later I had the same rpm fluctuation problem and the SES ligh came back on. Took it to my indy and he said the battery was bad (it was the original) He changed the battery and noticed two codes P0019 Camshaft position correlation bank2 sensor B and P0024 Camshaft position timing over advanced. My mechanic thought the lack of battery power at starting, causing the rpm fluctuation, could've been responsible for throwing these codes. A couple days after replacing the battery I had another rough start with rpm fluctuation and check battery terminals along with a service engine soon light. The rpm idle did finally settle at a normal level and the car is running fine again. Any ideas?

[@bontruong6358]

+Doylesburg My car had the same exact problem. I replaced some relays according to some forums without any help. Ended up changing out the position sensor without luck also. Did you ever fix the problem? Could it all be related to the IBS???

[@benbenavidez6363]

Hello mate!! I was wondering if you have a similar problem with my 2007 BMW,328i, .as the engine tenioner pulley isnt aligned properly,or should i say true(not in a straight line )with the rest of other pulleys,drives,etc...footnote, the tenioner/and belt were purchased new.You thoughts are welcomed! Good day!!

[@rodmartin1817]

Great video. I have a Question. I am having some sort of very intermitted power problem. Car runs 100% great with no codes, but then, about every week or so, things go awry. I get (2A6A, 2A6B) codes that have something to do with VVT power issues. On this last go around, I got a code that also indicates a power problem, 9D12, which is not the battery specifically, but its the siren battery. When power is lost to the siren, it will take over, apparently. Lastly, I get these CCC errors. E18C, and E18F. I think that has something to do with the computer going offline... also perhaps a power issue. I also get an A468, which is central info display timeout. All seems related to me. I also notice that Carly and ISTA have intermittent problems reading all of the modules. Carly is more consistent... it will not read engine module on occasion, i have to kill it and restart, then it reads. But even then, it only finds 34/68 modules. I have no idea what it should be reading. I replaced the IVM module (I think that resolved an intermittent dead starter problem), and the 30G fuse (original OEM) Lastly, and I think unrelated, I get DISA errors. 2B71, 2B72. I think I just need to replace that. Any thoughts? I have tried forums, with very little luck. Thanks in advance for ANY advice!

[@rameradelabiblia]

9D12, open your alrarm siren & change baterry: 2x CR17335. price 4€. In bmw, 200€

[@BMTroubleU]

sounds bad mate. bmw dealerships can update the software in your car- thats where i would start just to rule it out. i cant say if there may be something else at fault, and if there are faults stored it may not allow a software update. i dont think one thing alone would cause all those different issues, it will definitely need looking into further

[@johnbarona1]

Hello I keep getting a passenger restraint system error code. what should I check first. I dont want to take it in if its a fix that I can do myself. As I looked on the Bimmer forum they said it could be the pad in the seat that needs to be replace, the small thin cable thats connected to battery positive, or another sensor. I would really appreciate your help.

[@Adriansweden1]

I have a BMW e60 got some battery problems and wanna ask if my alternator is 100% good should my engine run after removing the + from the battery ?

[@kokokokolev]

What would be causing vehicle voltage to oscillate from 11.88V to 15.3V on a 2006 525i E60? New alternator does the same thing. Several IBS and electric water pump codes are present too...?

[@e60tube90]

Replace ibs

[@davidjrlebron]

Hello. Do you know where I may be able to find a video or written instructions on how to replace my A/C Condenser? Air was coming out hot. Checked the freon and showed no pressure from low port. Tried filling with freon and after about 2 minutes I heard a hissing sound like air leaking out. I shut off the car and traced the leak to the condenser that had a hole in it where a rock was wedged. Any info will help. Thank you

[@mblaise7]

I have a 2004 e60 and now i am having a nightmare with drained battery over night. I have already replaced the battery, thats how found that it wasn't the battery because the new battery was drained the very next day....Please help.

[@BLally]

what size is the star head on the screw that holds down the side lining of the trunk?

[@gtti12]

Hi, I've been having trouble with my 2005 530i individual msport, I hope you can help as not one person in Australia seems to be able to shed any light on this. The airbag light has come on along with the seat belt buckle light. It's showing fault 93F9 on the scan tool. What exactly is 93F9? I was told airbag control module but when I deleted the fault it went away for about 500kms, if it was the module wouldn't it have came back on straight away? When I delete the fault now it's goes away for about 3-5 minutes and then comes back on? I've rang the recall oz place and they said that recalls for the occupancy sensor and battery cable had been done. I'm at a loss with this I just bought the car in Sydney and drove it to Perth and can't drive it until I get it over the pits and it won't pass while the lights are on.. Have you ever seen this happen? Please help.

[@ounphala9758]

i had the same problems did you resolve it? i din't solve my problems still have air bag light stay on i need help to resolve this..

[@gtti12]

+oun Phala yeah mate I just got it sorted last week, luckily I found a BMW mechanic that knew his stuff, turns out there was a faulty ibs 'intelligent battery sensor' also there was the wrong type of battery in the car, long story short because that sensor and battery were bad the airbag module wasn't getting the correct voltage, this makes the module activate its emergency mode and switches to its own internal power, that's what brings the airbag lights on, on the dash. Absolute mindfu*k to figure it out but thankfully it's all sorted now and the lights are all off.

[@RicardoFerreira-tf6wx]

Hi Paul, my bmw has the same fault 93f9. Could you clarify which cable you changed? Was the negative IBS battery cable or the positive, which I think it´s called BST? How do I know if my battery is the correct one? Thanks in advance for any help.

[@gtti12]

+Ricardo Ferreira the ibs is attached to the negative terminal, that is the one I replaced. Replaced the battery also with a genuine BMW one. No faults since thank f***

[@RicardoFerreira-tf6wx]

Many thanks for ur reply... did u had battery drain, or just the airbags light on and restraint error?

[@motochiptuning]

so what was the problem,for replacing this?

[@puupe10]

The original part will fail and cause whole car to burn to ashes

[@jurijssmarins9805]

hi there, i have idrive CCC unit turn off and turn on again, also battery drain message on it. any ideas, what can i do first? bmw 525d 2005. many thanks

[@SLADE330]

Hi i purchased a 2004 5 series last week its only done 54000 klms and serviced every 4-5000 klms never missed what could possibly go wrong I say. i noticed a few harsh gear changes at first and a later drive the transmission light came on and said something like no forward speed in gear I turn of and restart the warning has gone away but it sometimes like, briefly misses a gear and the revs pick uo then then the gear changes. could this go from my best purchase to my worst. any suggestions

[@Peregar4ik]

Where can i buy these plastic parts to replace them myself? Thank you:)

[@BMTroubleU]

honestly mate the whole recall is to ensure that the two retaining legs which click into the floor are seated properly and to add some of that dielectric grease, which you can get lots of places- the change of plastic covers is used simply to identify at a glance whether the recall has been carried out or not, so its not strictly necessary. but if you must have one contact your nearest bmw dealership and see if they'll sell you one... im not sure they will though

[@jhenriquezcc]

What is it the specific part called?

[@ReemSpektor]

Can you help me plz..on my 2008 528i, it says on control panel Increased battery discharge. I fully charged it, but the next day I have a same problem. I checked my battery it says good, just need to be charged. So if my battery is good why it's not holding the charge?? is that battery cable bad as you explaining in the video or can it be something else?? help me please

[@MAW51187]

What is this cover called or could you share a link to where i can buy it?

[@Ragu8235]

I removed the battery wire after that the power shutter is not working. Please let me what I want to do

[@mantasmantas1589]

It's not a fix, it's a solution! Puting grease on it will only disapate heat better, and do not fix the problem of heating itself. Real problem is on the opposite side of that black trim where the other part of cable connections. Connection there is poorly clamped for factory, over time connection gets lose and then comes head from electricity that can not flow freely. Replacing whole cable is heavy job and it's doesn't fix the problem overall because that clamp is poorly designed and problem will occure again in 5 years. I'm currently working on this problem to make that connection life long guarantee. Soldering seems to not work on those cabbles and it's sertently not a copper wire. Any ideas or work arounds?

[@BMTroubleU]

In that area of the vehicle, with that particular battery cable running the amps it meant to, I see no reason why heat will be an issue. The dielectric grease is meant to inhibit possible current flow from the positive battery cable to ground. There will be heat if the two plastic legs of the passthrough section arent both correctly located, causing the eyelet to touch the painted metal boot floor and potentially rubbing the paint off and causing current flow. I can agree with you that a small plastic passthrough like this is a cheap and not particularly sturdy design.

[@jaydee427]

What is the part number for the new white battery cable cover?

[@lewis72]

I presume that any work done on the recall notice is free. I have had this battery cable recall notice for years now; they keep sending me letters periodically, so I thought I'f finally get it checked out.

[@BMTroubleU]

Yes it's 100% free at any BMW dealership

[@lewis72]

@@BMTroubleU Many thanks for the reply. I had thought so. I've owned my '03 E60 for 11 years no, with 198k miles on it. I've been getting the recall letters periodically for about 6-7 years or so but thought Id finally take them up on the recall.

[@handsomemog]

would this cause the sbk to show high resistance making the airbag and restraint system faulty? code is 9AFF

[@gregt1148]

My 2005 530i wont start. It ran fine the day before, but overnight the battery seems to have drained completely out. Road service tried to jump the car and could not get it to start. they said the battery is fine. The battery was replaced in 2012. I've read where the IBS sensor could cause this. Is that true? If I disconnect the sensor cable from the negative battery cable, would that allow the car to start?

[@gtti12]

That does sound like the intelligent battery sensor, but wouldn't recommend disconnecting it, usually when you try to trick an e60 into starting because there is so much electronics that all communicates with each other, if one component is faulty 7 other issues pop up. I've learned that the hard way. Best bet would be to get a sensor for it and make sure you have the correct AmpHour battery. An ibs here in Australia is $954 from BMW. I just purchased one for my 05 530i last week in O'Rielly's BMW Sligo Ireland for €270 and had it sent over by post, saved $500.

[@spediegunz]

my e60 has had the pas restraint error w/seatbelt airbag light, which used to go away and return until it stayed permanently. at first I thought is was the seat mat sensor recall but I took it to my indy he told me the error code it came up as a faulty positive explosive battery cable funny thing my car had never been in a crash so the cable never exploded. fix would required new cable coding and install = $700 :( is this video the fix to my problem or something else?

[@sikoriaandrews374]

I have a 2003 525i BMW, the battery is being drained. I have replaced the battery thinking that was the solution to my problem. While Im driving the ! symbol will appear,my head lights will stop working and my car will shut completely down. I have also tried to jump start my car and it will jump start but when I take the jumper cables off it will shut back down in a matter of seconds what can be done

[@BMTroubleU]

5series are known for having battery issues, but the way you describe the fault it seems quite severe which sounds like it may be the alternator which supplies the battery current while the car is running. test with a multimeter to make sure your car has close to 14 volts while running. if its low (around 12 to 13) the likelyhood is you'll need a replacement alternator (and check the battery cables and plug connections while your there. also a fault code check at the dealership can support this hypothesis. let me know how you go.

[@thugstylef]

So apply grease around of the metal and not on it at all or is a little ok

[@BMTroubleU]

A little is ok

[@michaelcrowe8088]

i have a 2005 530d e60 it randomly shuts down at any time you could be doing 100 kph or 60 kph or stationary it may do it 3 times one day and then not for a week or 2 if you are on the freeway and it does it you can select neutral hit the start button again and it will restart no problem i have had it scanned and it doesn't come up with codes any help would be much appreciated

[@e60tube90]

Battery check

[@dougguretzki19]

What's the name of the part I need to order, can I get online, or just at BMW dealer, thanks.

[@BMTroubleU]

absolutely normal

[@wendylimandri4117]

Is it worth it to seek refund of a 606.99 dollar charge for a positive SBK cable test. It was replaced at the Paul Miller with 306- labor charge and 255.58 parts ammt.

[@BMTroubleU]

depends. was your vehicle included in this recall? not all are. were the parts replaced on your car the same as the recall effected parts? if not then no

[@rogeliopesqueda5105]

I got a a problem with my e60.. it gave me a “check battery terminals” this morning it started up right now it won’t turn on ..?

[@BMTroubleU]

Check the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. If they're fine test the battery. If the battery is fine, then there is a part of one of the terminals called the BST that is meant to disconnect the battery in the event of a crash that might be playing up

[@user-kk1ob4uu6c]

Hi, how to fix error engine 281D BSD generator:signal???

[@markwhite8214]

I have a 93FC , 93FD, 93D5, 93B2 AND 629E CODES AND MY CAR KEEPS STALLING OUT DUE TO FUEL PUMP CRASH DEACTIVATION, BATTERY PLUS....HELP PLEASE SOMEONE

[@Gwixyy]

For some reason my transmission, cruise and active drive all went out at once...and my rpms stopped working..possibly a battery issue??

[@BMTroubleU]

sorry for taking so long to reply, ive been away for a while. battery issues will stop your engine turning over when you try to star it, but once its running it should be fine. if it was having problems while the engine was running its likely a bad alternator which supplies electricity to the vehicle when the engine is running. have you found out what was wrong with it since you commented?

[@7lampsministries471]

i subscribed to your page

[@radio22king]

Hi. I have a 2010 535i having excessive battery drain messages. Changed battery 4 times. New Alternator. What is the recal or procedure for the battery cable on this model? Thank You!!

[@BMTroubleU]

this video that youre commenting on is the complete procedure for the battery cable recall. you may be experiencing parasitic current draw issues, i recommend you take it to an auto electrician to get checked for that

[@ArCtIcFoX666]

+Bobby Ruggiero OR its your IBS

[@paulic5561]

+Bobby Ruggiero hey guys ..... I have an E60 M5 and this fault light has been on ever since I purchased, 4 years ago. We have done everything. One forum comment linked me to this .... I am trying this next, not big $ but have to try it - FINAL STAGE UNIT REPLACEMENT. cant link you the page but its in www.540i6.com so do a google search - good luck .... Alternator too is inbound for me

[@pirrurrashon]

my passenger restraint system error came up after I replaced my battery. Do you know if I need to get the mat replacer or did the battery cause something to make this error come up? Is there a reset I needed to do after replacing my battery? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[@BMTroubleU]

try a fault code delete using a good obd2 scanner, that might be all it needs. does the error code come up as currently present?

[@antoineleblanc7264]

BMTroubleU Hello, maybe you can help me. I have a 2004 525i that has the same problem as J. Canedo above. I have cleared the error getting rid of the Passenger Airbag Malfunction Error (9AFF) but it always comes back; usually upon first starting the car. I clear the error after starting and it doesn't come back during that drive, sometimes even the next drive. But the next day there it is again. I called BMW about the recall on the seat mat and they said mine wasn't covered. I don't think it's the seat mat because the computer recognizes when there is weight on the seat and not. The "passenger airbag" indicator furs off and on when you sit down and get up. So it leads me to believe that it's some other power issue.

[@MrDutchentre]

Hello! I have an 2005 530i ( E60). I also have the passenger restraint warning that has been on for a while. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the battery safety terminal. They wanted $824 to repair it ( replace the cable)! Do you have any ideas how I could repair this on my own?

[@SkubySnak]

MrDutchentre I've got the same problem. Any resolution???

[@n54e82]

+SkubySnak Shack look up roskin e60 videos on youtube he explain how to do it if u know how to solder its easy, i did it and light went off but u do need an airbag reset tool

[@SkubySnak]

Rob: Thanks for the info. Wish I found this sooner. I actually ordered the Sport Drive activator cable from that guy. Looking at a different post, Roskinc says he has an upgraded module. You know if he's just referring to the iDrive? I've got a 2007 BMW 530i (e60), so I hope this fix will work on my vehicle as well...Just gotta hit up Radio Shack for that part...

[@modern20001]

HI, can u plz help me, yesterday out of the sudden , my General Electrical failure light came on, the wipers start goin crazy, and when I switched off the engine the interior lights will not go out, like the car didn't go to sleep after 16 min, .Also now my rear doors lock and trunk lock wont work from my remote , and also when I turn on the car the interior lights are flickering , and all dashboards lights start goin carzy. The error tht I get is Cruise Control Failure,. Went to a mechanic and he use Launch , the error tht he got was K-CAN communication fault , E107,

[@modern20001]

no i didn't, but i disconected te thin wire that is conected to the battery in the trunk , and it works fine now . I follow the instruction on video posted on utube .

[@ShahnawazKhan-mp1er]

My 2005 E60 has an intermittent fault with the idrive system where it freezes, the radio/music turns off and I hear static in the back ground (coming from speakers). This all started following a high battery drain. The voice controls on the steering wheel have also stopped responding and the Bluetooth check box is permanently ticked which I am unable to change. Any suggestions would be really helpful. Thanks

[@e60tube90]

Check your micropowermodule

[@rufus13rufus]

Hello, I have a bmw s1 msport 2008, my model is not on the recall list for this problem... But my positive terminal (the same you modifying) haves no cover whatsoever and is corroted with liquid around. Bmw is saying because I'm not on the list I have to pay for this and as you can imagin they ask for mad money... How can I get the plastic cover? What's the proper name or part number? Can you help?

[@BMTroubleU]

honestly the covers (old and replacement) are exactly the same design, just different colours to indicate that the recall has been completed. i cant guarantee the one which fits the positive cable on this e60 5 series will fit you 1 series, but you could always try. why not ask the dealer if he could give you one of the old black covers- they only throw them out anyway and an accomodating, friendly dealer shouldnt have a problem with this. then you could at least undo it, rub back the corrosion with some emmery paper or a wire buffing wheel, then treat it with something to prevent corrosion reoccuring. let me know how you go mate

[@rufus13rufus]

Thanks for the feedback, ill try and let you know

[@Bullsheetbob]

Hi there. My display screen just went Black on my e60. The screen is now Black with no display on it. The cd/dvd player stays illuminated with none of the buttons responding. Even when the car is switched off. The idrive knob just spins freely. I have lost all functions on idrive. Have you cine across anything like.?

[@BMTroubleU]

sorry for taking so long to reply, ive been away for a while. definitely common on these, but the fix is usually a new complete unit with screen. get it checked out at a delaership if you want to make sure, but if it ends up needing a new unit its cheaper to go aftermarket

[@Bullsheetbob]

BMTroubleU Hi. Yes it was the unit. It has been repaired and is now working fine. Thanks.

[@abarrazarios]

Where can i buy a recall cable and cover? Just in the dealer?

[@jhenriquezcc]

hello where do you get the white cover or another cover?

[@killerkoala2518]

Hey mate the black cable come of battery positive on e60 would now where connects or just spare

[@BMTroubleU]

Not sure mate. If it's a thin, small wire it may be related to the airbag system. In the event of a crash, there is a part in the positive terminal which will disconnect the battery power to prevent possible electrocution or fire if the crash was bad enough.

[@killerkoala2518]

@@BMTroubleU cheers for quick reply mate and I found it’s the ibs wire and for some reason mines gone so need get New negative cable and ibs adaptor for my model

[@BMTroubleU]

@@killerkoala2518 ah yes, intelligent battery sensor. Glad you've got it sorted 👍

[@AbidKhan-uq4pr]

Hi got issue with my BMW 525.. after 15minutes turning the car off the time is loss.. can you help? Thanks

[@BMTroubleU]

Hi mate. Best case scenario this means you have a battery that's bad or too small compared to what it's meant to have. Start by testing the battery, terminals and check the CCA rating and let me know how you go.

[@marchaddad6970]

is it worth taking to the dealer?

[@thugstylef]

Hey bmtroublu is there somewhere I can purchase that cable connector so I can replace it myself

[@BMTroubleU]

It's free to get done at the BMW dealership, but if you need the plastic cap part then you can order it from their parts dept

[@arturd.802]

Hello, I am new Bimmer 525i owner. I have a “Battery charge very low” warning alert one minute after having stopped but did not eject the FOB key waiting for someone; with radio on. Thanks to advise any hint what can be causing this problem and how to sort it out

[@BMTroubleU]

This is common to e60 5 series models. It needs to be checked for parasitic current draw and the checked to see if the control units are going into sleep mode properly. The best scanner for that job is at a bmw dealership. Let me know how you go mate

[@arturd.802]

BMTroubleU Yes, l know the best scanner will be bmw garage, but they gonna charge me for this scanning 100£ ) so at first place looking for cheaper options )

[@arturd.802]

Artur D. but any way thanks for replay ! will let you know result !

[@BMTroubleU]

Artur D. how did you go with your battery mate?

[@63260103k]

hi! i have bmw e60 2004...my problem is when i'm starting engine my navigation screen is flashing and after i turn off engine and start again i can't start engine,emptied my battery then il recharge baterry and cars start normali but again screen flashing i dont know what to do

[@BMTroubleU]

sorry for taking so long to reply, ive been away for a while. sounds like you have a parasitic current draw coming from somewhere- draining the battery while the car is off. your screen may be to blame, but get it checked at an auto electrician to get an answer on that. let me know how you go

[@e60tube90]

Micropowermodule

[@muharremaydin5564]

Hi BMTroubleU, I have problem with my bmw e60. My key work only in 2 meters of the car, if I am a lil bit away of the car the key doesnt work! What is the problem ?

[@BMTroubleU]

probably the battery in your key is low. you may or may not have a removable battery in your key- check on youtube for a tutorial (sorry i dont have one myself), its pretty easy

[@muharremaydin5564]

Hi BMTroubleU, I swicthed my battery with i new one. That is not the problem. I am searching but cant find the problem :( !

[@BMTroubleU]

try the spare key if you can to see if its any different, then check for fault codes (best to go to a bmw dealership for that). there may be an aerial issue with the CAS control unit.

[@elman712]

Hi! I have a 2005 520d M Sport which had a front impact. I have changed the bst and battery is fully charged but the car will not start. It shows all the lights on ignition but only gives a click sound when I try to start it. How do I get it to start? Thanks!

[@BMTroubleU]

check the amperge flow with an amp clamp on the battery negative cable while you are trying to start it. if its 30+ amps you could have a seized engine or bad starter motor, if its low (around 10) it will be a key or immobiliser related issue. let me know how you go mate

[@elman712]

BMTroubleU Thanks a span! Will give it a go and let you know.

[@elman712]

BMTroubleU Hi! I am back with a development, before I checked the amperage I jumped her from the front as I had read on a Bimmer forum to add more voltage and she is cranking/turning now but not getting fired up, she wont start. Any suggestions on what is going on with this new info!

[@BMTroubleU]

the most common issue with e39's not firing is either a dead key battery or it needs an ews alignment which only a dealership can do. the ews can bugger up if youve had inadequate voltage, but the easiest thing to check is the key first

[@elman712]

BMTroubleU Thanks! Will check the key first. Just to point out it is an E60 520d M Sport but am sure the electrics is similar.

[@ramitbhalla]

Replacing the cable, won't it disconnect the battery? And I understand when the battery is disconnected and reconnected 2 things happen: 1. It clears all settings and any fault codes in the computer (i.e. history is lost) 2. The battery needs to be registered with the car (which BMW charges a hundred bucks). Am I wrong?

[@BMTroubleU]

not a common job to do, if you can hunt a diy down from forums all good. i know you'll need to take off the big black metal plate (that the bonnet lock is in) and it'll come out upwards. sorry i cant really be of more help without looking at it