BMW E32 E34 735i 535i Fuel Pump Replacement

[@iRediculuz]

I've jist recently bought a 735il, and I've been using your videos for help wheni need it, thank you and keep doing what you're doing!

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

I'm glad my videos help you! Your car is worth fixing, keep it up!

[@baroquemedicalitsupporttea8306]

You and Sreten are just inspirational 🙌. Am learning to not loose money when I could invest in me ...from unskilled to skilled, from ignorance to knowledgeable. Thank you very much for these videos 📹!

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Thanks for your kind words. I do not belong in the same sentence as Sreten! He does a much better job IMO. You do well to keep learning and gaining new skills. I try to do the same thing, by reading documentation and experimenting.

[@Resq28]

Awesome video as always. My pump just quit on my way home from work 😢. I should have replaced it when I first thought I had problems. I bought the same pump as you from Rock Auto and I also bought the black housing for an extra $100CAN just in case. Thx again dude!! ❤

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

That's unfortunate! The pump provided many years of reliable service, considering the age of the car. Glad you managed to get the parts. Make sure to work in a vented area because of the fumes. :)

[@Resq28]

Unfortunately. The old fuel pump still works 🤦🏼‍♂️. It’s something else, I need to do some digging, she cranks but no start. She is getting gas, I believe she is getting spark. Very odd.

[@calinponta6835]

Hi , i also have an e32 an also service it myself. Before buying the car i did a little research of the model and your problem with the idle popped out as a specific one for the model. On the forums that i read about it people resolved it with the change of the oxigen sensor (lambda, how ever you whant to call it). Although it is not applicable to my car since it's from France and does not have a catalist and oxigen sensor, they share the ecu so you could theoreticaly check if the oxigen sensor it's faulty by just unpluging it. Also beware that you have to buy only original or at least bosh made for bmw of the era, people have reported that generic o2 sensors don't work well. As said before you should check vacuum lines, my small vacuum line from manifold to intake (not the one for fpr)was cloged and did make the idle rough..

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Hi thanks for your comment. I already changed the O2 sensor early when I got the car, using a new Bosch unit. It's working correctly because I see the correct values when back-probing into the connector. I am waiting to receive a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks. I do not think I have vacuum leaks, because I replaced the injector seals, all intake boots, all vacuum hoses to the intake manifold, and also the intake manifold gaskets. But I did not update the vacuum pipe going to the brake booster, so we'll see.

[@calinponta6835]

@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec Hi, since my post i read al the story of the car and what you did to it, on Bimmerforums. I realy hope it's not the ecu as you tested/replaced everything that's related to idle quality. I do have 2 ideas: - one about the vacuum going to the brake booster, not the hose (it's to short and you would have noticed a crack) but the brake booster itself and the check valve - it's an easy test, take the hose out of the brake booster or intake manifold and put a plug for a few seconds(like your finger on the hose output); - in one of your posts on bimmerforums you investigated the idle switch on the throtle and you had difficulties setting it. Also you said that the rpm varries only at idle(no throtle input) and as soon as the throtle plate is just a little activated the rpm stabilises. This makes me think that the idle switch maybe in a wrong possition and the microswitch inside is not engaged at idle...(if it has an idle switch, i have the square one since mine it's a manual and do not know exactly how the round sensor works). As you probably alredy know the injection management has redundancies for the few sensors of the car so as a general rule you can just disconect the sensor that is tested and the ecu will default to a midle value/the car should run right as if the sensor is ok. This i found to be a very good way to exclude/confirm that a certain sensor is bad.

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

@@calinponta6835 Thanks for your insightful comment! After you made the suggestion I went in the garage and took off the vacuum hose going to the brake booster. I then capped the hole on the manifold with my finger, but the hunting idle persisted. It was a great suggestion though! Later today I will try disconnecting the throttle switch. It is set up correctly (it clicks at the right position) but it could still be faulty internally. I wonder if the DME has substitution values for the throttle switch though? It sounds like it would be a critical part of the fuel injection strategy. I will try it and see. Thanks a lot for your suggestions. One thing I noticed when starting the car in cold weather in the garage: the hunting idle only appears after 30 seconds or so, after starting the car. The exhaust smoke is nice and clean (pretty much transparent) for these 30 seconds, then it becomes rich as the hunting idle begins. The exhaust smells like fuel and becomes somewhat grey/opaque. It's very strange.

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

@@calinponta6835 Starting the car with the TPS disconnected, the revs are at 2000 RPM and I get a Trans Program error on the cluster. The exhaust still smells rich but the hunting idle is gone. Not sure what to make of that...

[@calinponta6835]

@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec I will try to do this to my car tomorow and report back to you but it will probably not be so relevant because it;s not the same type of sensor(i have a manual car with the sqare type of sensor). I do however have the following thought: on my car the sensor has the function to determine if the car idles, is at max throttle or in between. For this it has 2 microswitches. Yours is different in function because it tells the gearbox how much the throtle is pressed so it must have a potentiometer, probably extra not in place of the two switches. If i was in your place i would check the sensor, with a multimeter set on resistance : a) a for continuity(if presumably it uses microswitches ) and b) for the functionality of the said potentiometer, the resistance should vary in a linear way. Again this is only theoretical since i do not know how exactly your type of sensor works. Also you will have to find out(probably by trial and error or with the electrics manual if you understand it) what pins to test. If you can dismanle the plastic of the sensor you could clean the race of the potentiometer and check directly the functionality of the microswitches (on my type of sensor it's possible). Also i would still disconnect the O2 sensor plug (i don't trust new parts) and the test you made just showed that the o2 switches between the two correct values not how fast it switches (an osciloscope is needed 4 that). Most tired/old/even broken o2 sensors still switch metween the 2 values, but only slower.

[@danielsaltan1590]

Thank God for you man making these vids with the 735i E32 series helping me a lot here in Trinidad 🇹🇹

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Thank you Daniel for the nice words.

[@danielsaltan1590]

@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec hey man I need some assistance in my BMW 735i E32 can you help me ?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

@@danielsaltan1590 I can try... What is the problem?

[@danielsaltan1590]

@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec I’m getting a loud knocking under the car when I pass 50Mph and the steering shakes as well .. also when I accelerate i get like a knock from the back ... hopefully I explained it correct

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

@@danielsaltan1590 It sounds like a worn driveshaft center support bearing. There is a large rubber bushing that holds the driveshaft and when it's torn the driveshaft can knock on the chassis. Or it could be a bad driveshaft (bad U joints). Ask a shop to verify the driveshaft, or do it yourself if you have a garage. You need to lower the exhaust a bit to reach it.

[@hazimhani5626]

Great work, thank you for your effort.

[@alexanderparakesyan1152]

You are awesome!! Helped me a lot 😊

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Thank you!

[@vooski]

Isn't it great that the fuel pump can be replaced without having to remove the fuel tank? Many older cars require that. Thanks for the video - I'm working on my fuel pump today - frustrated because I can't get it out of the tank. I squeeze the release clips but it just doesn't want to let go :(

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Did you manage to remove your fuel pump? It can be stubborn if it was never removed. But you have to be careful to not break the plastic holder, as it's all plastic. Yes the design is great from a service point of view, the pump is easy to access.

[@bigjimWA77]

Hmm. Alternator regulator...for the dimming light if not a bulb. Also there's something called a stomp test whereby you floor the accelerator in a certain sequence (car not running, ignition on or in a certain position but definitely not running engine-wise) and I believe this has some kind of resetting affect on the ECU. Not too sure exactly but perhaps look into that or similar ECU reset/relearn procedure?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

I did a stomp test already and the result was 1444 (no fault). I would have to get a compatible scanner like a Foxwell to get more information out of the OBD1 system. Other people suggested the voltage regulator, it is something worth trying. But my car is in the shop now getting another smoke test done, I'll have results on Monday. Hopefully I get a real diagnostic instead of throwing parts at it (kind of gets expensive)!

[@alexebenoit]

Hey guy in Quebec! Nice vid, you're doing great !!!

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Thanks for the kind words Mrs Benoit ;)

[@alexebenoit]

@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec its madame Sanacore now ! Hehe :p

[@adamshar5180]

Hey, thanks for the helpful info I'm having the same exact issue and will be replacing many parts also. If I find out what is wrong with mine I'll let you know. Also, I'm looking forward to what is causing your issue as I may have the same problem.

[@o2kala649]

I wonder if the issue of the rough idle might also be related to a cam shaft bearing. The bearing sticks and is not smooth which the camshaft fights against and also results in lose of power - faded lights.

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

That's interesting, never heard of that idea before. How would I check the cam shaft bearings?

[@houseofno]

Usually that rubber ring gasket sealing the fuel pump assembly has dried, cracked, or shrunk. It's a good idea to replace it and it's not expensive. Be very careful removing the sender assembly. The fuel level sensor rides on a very thin wire and it's very fragile. Handle carefully as BMW only sells the wire as part of the fuel sender assembly and will not sell this fuel sender wire separately. Lastly, BMW put an 80L fuel tank in the short body "i" cars and a 90L fuel tank in "iL" cars. These two tanks utilize specific fuel sender assemblies and are not interchangeable. The short body sender assembly is shorter and won't deliver an accurate fuel level reading in a long body car and the long body fuel sender assembly unit is too tall to fit in the short body fuel tank. Hope this helps.

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Fantastic information, thank you. I should have replaced the gasket, I will add it to my list. It's funny you mention the sender. When I drive the car now I see a bit of movement on the fuel gauge, not a lot and not all the time, but it's something that didn't happen before. The fragile wire probably got bumped too many times and now it's starting to weaken. Good to know the sender is specific to the iL. That means a sending unit from a 535i wouldn't work.

[@jrsanacore2310]

Nice video mate! Continue the good work. Hopefully your next troubleshoot will be the good one. 💪

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Merci! lol

[@PreciousRidez]

Nice work with the fuel pump, will have to catch up on your other videos. Your idle issue might be a vacuum leak.

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Hi, thanks! Yes there might be a vacuum leak. I'd like to get a smoke machine to do proper tests at home.

[@szaki]

Maybe your alternator or belt needs checking, not putting out proper voltage?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Thanks for the suggestion. I suppose this is in response to my hunting idle? The belt is new and I replaced my alternator since then. It hasn't improved it. But I will keep trying more things...

[@rgrainger91]

The top of mine seems to be different from every other video I find my old fuel pump has a cartage at the top and the new one is like this video so the negative and positive won’t fit what do I do ?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

This is just a guess, but it's possible that your old pump connectors were converted to spade type terminals, especially if it is a generic pump. You would need to convert them back to ring type terminals to use the OE setup.

[@TheJuandiego1986]

hi, I am looking to buy a new fuel pump, issue here is that there are 2 models: 16141181354 and 16147161387. What is the difference between these 2, are they the same? btw, second one is cheaper.

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Hi, it looks like 16147161387 is only the pump, strainer and plastic housing. It doesn't come with the pulsation dampener (the circular silver part) and check valve assembly. I would buy 16141181354 instead. Or, you can try to find the OE Bosch unit, Bosch part number 69491. I see that RockAuto has it for 283 USD which is a good price. The Bosch part is the same as 16141181354 with everything you need already included.

[@farbodpourjam6075]

Any Scanner that you would suggest working on the E32 750i 1991?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

No sorry I don't have experience with OBD1 scanners for these cars.

[@farbodpourjam6075]

Hi, Boss hopes that everything is going well with you. I am having the same exact idle problem with my E32 750i JSpec. please let me know if you had any luck with the troubleshooting, it is driving me crazy :(. BTW I am now your fan from Ottawa.

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Hey great another Canadian fan! :) Have a listen to a newer video I made that shows my idle. It sounds better now, probably because of all the parts I replaced that got the engine a bit more closer to the original specs. It's not perfect but better. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l3uQhZWnbq-Dd7s

[@uriel2232]

What’s up man I have a 1991 735i e32 I’m trying to locate the fuel kill switch because it won’t send any fuel, any ideas?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Hi Uriel, I'm not aware of a kill switch for fuel. There is a relay (usually orange) in the DME box on the passenger side of the engine bay. If you jump pins 30 and 87 of the relay connector with a short piece of wire that will send power to the fuel pump, you can test if it works that way.

[@vwlukas]

I got the same issue with my 635CSi. Already swapped the same parts you did with the same result. Kinda running out of ideas.

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

It seems to be a common problem on BMW's of this era. I am suspecting an electrical issue: fusible links, battery, bad grounds or alternator/voltage regulator. I will do more tests and post a new video with my findings!

[@szaki]

To replace the fuel pump, should the fuel tank be empty?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

No the tank doesn't have to be empty. Of course the less fuel it has, the less messy the job will be. So ideally you'll want the least fuel possible.

[@szaki]

@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec Tank is half full! 😭😭😭

[@iRediculuz]

Also, whats the website you order your parts from, i live in manitoba, so i reckon itd be a good place for me to buy also. Bonjour from manitoba to!

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Ah a fellow Canadian! Hi from Quebec :) I buy parts from several places, depending on what I need. For specific BMW parts like trim clips, fuel hose, etc I buy from the local BMW dealer. I have an arrangement where I can just email the part numbers I need and the nice lady will charge my Visa and ship the parts for 10$! It's worth talking with your dealer to see if they can accommodate you. Then other times I order from eBay or RockAuto. For instance the fuel pump I bought from eBay for 304$ including Global shipping. Tie rods I got from RockAuto, Lemforder brand (OEM) and shipping was quite cheap. Same for the Bosch O2 sensor, 130$ at RockAuto for the same genuine part you get from the dealer, except it's not in a BMW box. I got exhaust brackets and hangers from AutoPartsWay.ca for a decent price. I'm always shopping for a deal, I don't like paying full price for anything, even quality German parts. So I do a lot of price comparison, it's something nerdy I enjoy :) Lastly some parts are very expensive new (or remanufactured) which is why I bought the air flow meter and idle air control valve used. You don't want to buy cheap Chinese electronic parts for these cars, it has to be Bosch. So you are better off with a good used Bosch, than a new cheap no-name part. The entire fuel injection system is Bosch Motronic 1.3 in the 735iL and it is calibrated to work with Bosch parts, so you have to stay with good calibrated parts for the system to work correctly. Anyway, I might make a video on where to buy good parts, I think it would be helpful for other Canadians. Hope this helps and have a good day!

[@nextphase7481]

Very helpful. Thanks!

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Happy to help!

[@leay6654]

hey man where did you get those plates for you car? That says: BMW 7er

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Hi, a friend ordered it at a BMW dealer when he traveled to Germany. The part number for the plate is 81852339704.

[@forcetuned8647]

Have same problem with up and down

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Usually it's good to start by checking for vacuum leaks, or a faulty idle air control valve. In my case I already checked these things so I am leaning more towards an electrical problem.

[@forcetuned8647]

Classic BMW Guy In Quebec Thank You 👍

[@MortenCbr]

did the fuelpump noise go away?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Yes it did! I forgot to show it in the video, doh. I'll try to show it in another video later.

[@Janice.Longoria.]

Are those the stock wheels?

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Hi! No they are 16 inch wheels from an E38 750iL, Style 61. My car came with the 15 inch Style 2 wheels originally.

[@vr-cx6lq]

did you disconnect the battery

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

Hi I can't remember if I did; but hopefully I did disconnect the battery!

[@vr-cx6lq]

Classic BMW Guy In Quebec I’m about to do mine I wanted to see if it was needed

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

@@vr-cx6lq You could argue that it's not needed, because the connector is only plugged into the pump after the sending unit has sealed the fuel tank shut. But it's a good habit to disconnect the negative battery cable when doing car repairs, for safety.

[@vr-cx6lq]

Classic BMW Guy In Quebec with the aid of your video I was able to swap out the pump in my 740i thank you for your help

[@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec]

@@vr-cx6lq Glad it worked for you!