BMW E39 FSU Replacement Instructional

A simple instructional video on how to replace the Final Stage Unit in any E39 5-series BMW.

[@woodsoncircle]

10 year old video yet STILL VALUABLE CONTENT. THANK YOU sir!

[@baddabingg]

2003 e39 here: Intermittent blower failure through the summer with the AC but it finally quit on me for fall heat. The video was very useful, I'm a big guy with big hands and removing the FSU with the tab and only able to get one hand in was a task. Careful on the new insertion, it needs to be squared up with the tab and the two rods which are on either side. That seems to be the trick to it clicking into place. Thanks again for the video.

[@r.w.2495]

This video was awesome. I just got my new FSU. Took me, literally, 15 minutes to replace it. Only requires one tool, a Philips screw driver. When installing my new FSU, I was able to hear the click!

[@E39Source]

Ryan Wilkins Glad it helped you out! :)

[@MLCJ7]

Thanks for the video. Just did mine in a 2000 528i. Same issue with clipping it back in. After fighting with it for several minutes, I rocked it up and down and heard it click back in! Yay me!!! 20 minute fix and I’m back to having heat...in Iowa...In January. Pretty important. Thanks again!

[@derekbland6538]

Thank you for this video. I am not mechanically inclined and got this done in 15 minutes. The new FSU unit corrected the problem perfectly! Just a few comments to, perhaps, help others. The FSU is as far back as you can go,. I know you gave a reference point in the video, but to describe it in words, it is far back there. The electric wiring simply requires a push of the side tabs and it will disengage. The FSU unit is held in by a tab on the bottom. If you push this down, then the unit slides out easily. Luckily, my new unit slid in easily and clicked into place. Other videos mention needing to take out the glove box. As this video shows, this is not necessary. It is a cramped job, but not a difficult one. Thanks again...Nice work!

[@gabycojoaca3633]

Cq

[@mattgti86]

I just swapped mine in about 15 minutes. Great video. Thank you

[@mrtd331]

Sweet! I usually suck at replacing stuff on my own but this vid definitely helped. Took me about 20 mins total with the hardest part being disconnecting the wire clip. Appreciate you taking the time to film this! Thanks!

[@normandj3771]

Mine does not want to move at all!!!!

[@1035frank]

Thanks for the great video tip. It was pretty easy after watching your video. Now my AC is working in this hot SoCal heat!

[@HeavensProtocol]

I had replace the Final Stage Resistor (FSU) on my 2003 530i. I don't recall if mine clicked when I installed the new one. I do remember doing a handstand in the passenger seat and being grateful that I have small hands. I do not smell like cabbage.

[@ARTUNAGER]

Million thanks!! Took me 5 minutes to replace it, all back to normal!!

[@AwakeAudio]

Great tutorial had mine switched out in a few minutes! And as for the 'click', my new one wouldn't either. I had to hold the tab down with my other hand and push it in until it was far enough for the tab to lock it in place

[@csabaenyedi281]

Extremely helpful, Thank you very much for sharing!!! Two things: - If you have Climate Control then it is a bit more awkward job to do, with A/C piece of cake. - I have a right hand drive 525, The FSU is on the driver side, not the passenger side.

[@vincentrocher8862]

Thanks a lot for this tutorial , my blower works now !

[@BobbyOHearn]

Nice video! Very similar if not spot on with when I replaced mine a few years ago. Keep the videos coming!

[@carstenstasch5141]

Hi, thanks to your well made video, I did it all by myself :-) Blower is blowing now! To get it in that last notch, I only pressed at the very bottom of the FSU, close to that stupid clip. Worked.

[@Mr.k3n]

Took me an hour, hardest part was squeezing the clip and pulling it out. Once you've got that done it's simple. Also if your going to do this wear a head torch, it's a two handed job.

[@cnnlive10]

Thanks for posting, the E39 is a great car with a few bad common pieces that can make it very expensive to own. BMW Service Dept. would have put their kids in law school if they would have had my car. Ordered off of Amazon and it took 10 minutes!

[@loramattal7688]

thank you so much! this video was just what i needed! FSU replaced!!! YOU ROCK!!! p.s. mine clicked. i looked at the pins or fins on the old one and needed to push one corner one in just a tiny bit but idl if that made it click or not i did it before i tried to install it.

[@jisbmw]

THANX MAN forgot about the push down clip.. save my life

[@MegaCambuur]

thanks man for this video it realy safed me time and money ,my fan was stop working

[@numeris14]

Thanks for the vid, finally changed fsu. Turns out fan wasn't working because of burned fsu. It broke because of summer heat, my ac are not working, so auto mode made fan spin full speed all the time, that killed the fsu (overheating and being old). disconnecting was the hard part i managed to take out whole fsu with connector on, that made easier to disconnect it. With one hand i pressed both clips ant used flat head screwdriver to gently separate in middle of connector from fsu. Then cleaned connector holes by using 2mm drill bit, just to be sure and used wd40 contact cleaner (just in case). And about clicking it in place, when you possition new one, just press harder on that side of fsu where the clip should click in, and it worked, because of new gasket you need to compress that side more ( on old fsu gasket was way more compressed on that side, when compared to new).

[@taurimarran]

Hey, I just finished changing the FSU on my 525 E39, you have to press the new FSU really hard with a screwdriver and then press the clip. Worked out just fine for me, nothing broke.

[@garconbuzdugan8077]

thanks uploader! I replaced myself and i save some money. really good tips!!

[@bradkerr9383]

I had exactly the same problem. After fighting with it for an hour, I found the problem. I looked at the gasket on the original and found that is was compressed to about 1/3 of it's thickness on the side where the clip is. When I checked the perimeter of the triangular hole where the FSU is inserted, it was uneven, so the original was installed with way more force than you can apply with one hand in a contorted position. I sanded some of the plastic off of the clip and shaved off approx. 1/16" off of the plastic on the clip side of the FSU. It snapped into place on the first try.

[@rataluckens6506]

awesome fella thankyou for helping out! from Australia

[@daMoonSon]

I have working FSU and fine contact, but already 2nd FSU is being melted down in contacts. I heard, that it could be caused by faulty blower, what is taked too much Amps. How do you think? How I can diagnose that? I don’t want to change working blower and do this much work without being sure that it is causing this melting FSU contacts.

[@nightynightjill]

My heater has started to work intermittently, the fan and all the controls work but only cold air comes through, sometimes though it comes back-on and works when I boot the accelerator/gas while driving. Seems a bit odd.

[@speedmracer]

thanks for the video, took me longer to watch than to actually replace. 5 min tops.

[@KingX226]

Got the fsu loose but it’s impossible to come out. It’s a whole black tube preventing it from even coming out. I don’t c any other videos where this is an issue and I haven’t read it any forums

[@jonch47av8r8]

In my 2003 530i, the blower fan & AC quit working. Replacing the FSU/Blower Resistor restored operation to the blower fan & AC. I found using a '45° Bent Nose Long Reach Pliers' essential in both clasping the release tabs on the plastic electrical connector to remove it along with gripping the failed FSU while I gently pried down on the plastic tab with a long flat bladed screwdriver to gently move the plastic securing tab downwards to remove the FSU from its mounting location. The sticky gasket on the FSU makes it difficult to remove from the plastic ductwork. During reinstallation, it may be easier to connect the electrical connector first then use the 45° Bent Nose Long Reach Pliers to position the FSU over the two small plastic guide pins while pushing the unit back into the ductwork opening with the plastic handle end of a long screwdriver. The locking black plastic retaining tab should engage the FSU to ensure it is fully inserted and retained. I also struggled to get the FSU properly aligned with the guide pins and fully inserted. That''s why I resorted to the plastic handle on my long flat bladed screw driver to generate enough force to fully seat it in place (once agin - the FSU flange holes MUST BE PROPERLY ALIGNED with the two plastic guide pins - the pliers helped make this possible). A very poor design on the part of BMW.

[@tonyg1773]

Nice work - thanks!

[@hassnkreem6452]

Goodevening mr, I change FUS but no start air van ??

[@78motomag]

Thanks for the vid! Is the FSU you put in a BMW oem part or an on-line replacement? I have had mixed results the parts I got on-line. Any how thanks again.

[@stegiff]

this video was very helpful. however, if it hasn't already been suggested, I would leave the wires connected to the unit and gently pull on it while you press down on the tab to dislodge the fsb unit. since the new fsb will have a fresh spongy seal, finding something blunt or rounded to use as leverage to push the new unit in until the tab clicks would be helpful. don't break the tab. it's there for a reason.

[@rcatank]

hey - did you figure out how to get the FSU by BEHR to click and clip? I am about to buy it and I wanted to check if I should get the 64116923204B (BEHR) or the 64116923204U (Uro Parts)

[@fotomedia1]

Good video. looks a little easier than i thought. I saw another video recently and the guy had his whole glove box ripped out to get to the FSU. LoL Anyway, my issue is that the fan blower remains on a low constant speed no matter where I set the control speed button. Does the FSU have anything to do with that?????

[@DavidFKturbo]

Yes!

[@125southernnh2]

I've got the same problem. Bought the FSU years ago and am too lazy to replace it!

[@yousafdurrani5154]

Thanks for the video.

[@douglasullman9777]

BTW many thanks for the awesome video

[@MRXCHRISS]

Great video. I got a Code with my Peake Research scanner: ( 06 8b)Electric Thermostat Control Final Stage. Is that the same as Final Stage Unit? On Pelican Parts site, they list a front and rear final stage unit. Is there a rear unit as well. How do I know which one? Everything seems to be working fine with my car, no problems. Just found the code. Thanks

[@E39Source]

Is 06 your table number? Yeah that sounds like the final stage unit to me. If everything is working, let it be for now. But keep an eye on the functionality of the climate control. There is only one FSU on the E39, but maybe the E38 had an option for rear climate control that would have had a separate FSU, and that may be why that code exists.

[@fotomedia1]

Does the FSU also control A/C & Heat temperatures besides the fan motor speeds????? My fan speeds are blowing fine but my A/C temperature is not as cold as it should be. I have no A/C leaks, coolant pressure is fine, all cooling fans working, new rad, new thermostat, and new water pump. No overheating problems.

[@E39Source]

It certainly can cause issues like that.

[@fotomedia1]

Thanks for your quick reply. I have replaced the FSU a few years ago when the fan blower was stuck at one speed but I just needed to know if it also affected temperatures as well this time around. I guess I could take the chance and replace it myself again for the small investment.. Florida summer is a killer without A/C.

[@logi234]

UK e39 models. Located in the drivers side, i repeat it is located on the driver side

[@btkab]

First, thanks to E39Source for this great video, it was really helpful. I took the FSU out from my Sweden (means Metric units, Centigrade temperature, left-side drive) bought 2003 E39 today and the video was 100% accurate. However, my Haynes manual (translated, unfortunately, into swedish) said "driver side". Think it makes sense though - the FSU would be on the right side of the car on all (european) models ?

[@fabiandee8178]

Thanks for the upload. How did the Behr unit perform since the installation? Ok? Cheers.

[@E39Source]

Still going strong!

[@tobycanrun]

Thanks for the post

[@douglasullman9777]

Hopefully I lucked out since my blower started working again after I removed and replaced fuses 75 and 76 (neither were blown) and I also jostled the FSU a bit in an attempt to remove it for testing. I never did actually remove the FSU as it was a PITA however I did try the blower again and voila, works fine...Well, so far at least...

[@selinaa.4176]

Hallo War sehr hilfsreich war in 10 minuten gewechselt

[@only1balto]

It looks really good. I only noticed when the carpeted panel was removed. I want to change mine to all black as well... Maybe with a touch of silver :) (M5 interior)

[@mule666]

Great info just replached mine in 10 min thank to this video easy job

[@joelramos4516]

Great video . My e39 is not blowing out hot air at all could it be my fsu ?

[@E39Source]

Check your coolant level. Sounds like your heater core isn't working. FSU just controls fan speed.

[@gabemartinez1012]

So do i have to replace this if my car its not blowing air.

[@e39source87]

This could be your problem... it's a relatively inexpensive and easy part to try... but it could be the blower motor or control modules as well.

[@soldaat24-channel]

When on auto, my car starts blowing too cold and too much air after about 10 minutes of driving, it's like the car thinks the temperature in the cabin is too hot. The airflow gradually increases. When I start increasing the temperature, it starts blowing less. Could this also be the FSU ? Thanks!

[@E39Source]

It doesn't sound like an FSU to me. Maybe interior temp sensor, light sensor, or just a bad HVAC panel.

[@soldaat24-channel]

@@E39Source The interior temp sensors are in the HVAC panel, right?

[@E39Source]

@@soldaat24-channel Yes

[@soldaat24-channel]

@@E39Source I'll switch out the panel for another. Thanks

[@thomasbacker8162]

Ok i dont know with my e39 2.0 petrol type if its the resistor,, fsu or the accual blower engine itself thats broke so am gonna go ahead and ask, whats the most typical item of those three to break first? (Ps.i have heard you can ger that fsu for 20 bucks on ebay so am gonna buy it and see if its that one thats broke but please leave an answer id you got one):)

[@E39Source]

+thomas backer What symptoms are you experiencing? The FSU is much more common than the blower motor.

[@thomasbacker8162]

Ok so its most likely the fsu thats the reason that i dont get any heat blow in the car when i turn the heater on?

[@samiiidy1029]

installed new FSU but when started the car my EML light went "on" and idle is bad. is it related with my FSU installation???

[@E39Source]

I wouldn't think that an FSU would cause the EML light to come on.. but that's something that E39s don't suffer from, so I am not as familiar with it. I would recommend scanning the computers to see what it's complaining about.

[@tobiassundalljosnes7030]

Hi, am experiencing problems with the FSU I assume. However, the problem isn't that I'm not getting heat; the fan isn't turning at all, no matter the fan setting. It's been rather cold lately, about -5 to -15 degrees celsius, so I've been unable to use the car. Since the fans aren't turning at all, do you think the FSU is the problem?

[@E39Source]

+Tobias Sundal Ljusens I'm not sure if that can be caused by the FSU, but it probably can. Could also be the fan motor itself though. I would check the forums for people with experience with that specific issue. Good luck!

[@tobiassundalljosnes7030]

I've been told it could be the FSU through the norwegian BMW forums. Hopefully it is! Great video.

[@nathanjd2802]

It was a pain in the ass but thank you for the video

[@ahmadbila06]

Guys...I just got my e39 528i yesterday here in Dubai. The fan speed is too high even at the first click when it turns on. It does increase slowly if I increase the speed for about 4-5 bars but after that even if I take it to the last (maximum speed) bar, the speed remains the same. is it possible for this to be an FSU failure? The blower is too noisy and hence annoying. Since it is not exactly stuck at one speed, I am not sure if it really is the FSU.

[@E39Source]

This definitely sounds like a bad FSU to me.

[@ahmadbila06]

@@E39Source Great, thanks. Atleast now I can get to it immediately. The noise is annoying.

[@only1balto]

You painted your carpet?

[@billykid9684]

Thank you

[@BibbiusV8]

Hi guys my a/c fun stays on after turning off the car for 20 minutes. does it have a problem why is it a component problem?

[@E39Source]

Sounds like a bad FSU to me.

[@antonmoric1469]

Really outstanding DIY video - concise and helpful. In a truly decent society, the downvoters would be shot... ;-)

[@stanmatan2381]

my fans are not working at all, do you think its the resistor or do I need to change the blower engine ?

[@E39Source]

It could be either, but I would start with the FSU since it's cheaper and easier.

[@stanmatan2381]

Thanks for the answer, I really hope its not the blower Engine 😄

[@PlymouthTagb]

Only problem was clicking the new one into place. To seat the unit it just needs a firm push. Just kept trying and on 4th or 5th try it clicked into place.

[@THENAFDON]

Iv got a bmw e39 525D UK model. My heaters are not blowing any air at all, it's happened all of a sudden, anyone know why?

[@E39Source]

Did the fan motor die?

[@THENAFDON]

I don't think so. How can I find out? But when I be driving around 50mph or anything over I can feel hot air blowing a little through the centre front vents. I have changed the heater blower fuses but no luck. Could it be the fsu?

[@E39Source]

Mohammed Ahmed When you press the fan speed + or - button, do you hear the fan? Or just totally dead. If it's totally dead, I'd say it's your fan motor.

[@kljones6577]

Any idea if this will solve my "123 electronic thermostat control" code ?

[@E39Source]

I think the thermostat control that that is referring to is for the engine cooling, not the cabin.

[@kljones6577]

E39Source where can I get this part?

[@E39Source]

The E39 FSU is BMW part number 64116923204. It is available anywhere BMW parts are sold. I would look at ECS Tuning, FCP Euro, etc. Amazon sells them as well.

[@rekkraw6143]

Thanks for the info I was looking for FSU down under and it is actually on the drivers side...

[@JTD19881369]

my blower motor stops randomly... most likely FSU right?

[@E39Source]

Could be. Try that first.. its certainly easier than replacing the blower motor.

[@Username7710]

im sorry everybody may i ask what is the fsu

[@djcoolkid100]

The part you bought is slightly bigger. Hard to get in, oem locked to say the least. It's either oem or nothing

[@tlezze91]

A few times over a month or so while parked not running at all I have heard some noise sounding like it's coming from the dashboard I never reacted to it I thought it was nothing

[@E39Source]

Definitely do the FSU then.

[@antifa86i35]

I just gently pressed down on the clip holding it into place and it just slipped in.

[@ruslan8765]

This can also be thr problem for the battery drainage. i have a 2002 540i and my battery keeps draining, i was thinking of putting in a similar switch to what you have in your introduction video that just turns the battery off, but i read the FSU is what causes the battery to die. it is all explained here and also helps with your issue on removing the wires without breaking anything, www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247697 and the instructions to changing the FSU www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143393

[@jcoach3064]

So my air stopped working all the sudden !! Only time air comes through is when I’m on freeway otherwise nothing hot or cold is it fsu or blower motor??

[@E39Source]

We would need to see this vehicle to diagnose your issue. Are you located near San Diego?

[@jcoach3064]

@@E39Source haha nope Seattle unfortunately

[@E39Source]

@@jcoach3064 I recommend visiting an independent specialist shop for diagnosis!

[@jcoach3064]

If u had to make an educated guess !!????? I’ve checked fuses and even got a new display unit lol

[@E39Source]

@@jcoach3064 I would check the fuse for the blower motor first, #76 which is a 40 amp fuse in the glovebox. Then replace the FSU. If all this fails, blower motor.

[@joedee373]

Hi, just to let you know . . . I recently replaced my e39 fsu and I had the same issue with not being able to click it fully home, my solution to this problem was to break off the little tab clip that is in the corner of the fsu on the face that the aluminium cooling pins are on, you will see it in the corner, break it off completely, I can see absolutely no purpose for it whatsoever as it locates into nothing and its the big clip that holds the fsu in position not this little tab clip, its mega important to make sure the mounting holes in the fsu are perfectly inline and the correct angle with the mounting posts as you push it in holding the big clip down, and just to reassure you mine has worked perfectly since installing it

[@Nikoebg3003]

we have the exact same interior with the dash and all lol

[@jillshaw4624]

you need to push the clip and push fsu in

[@MrSaamman]

Hey Ryan, I uploaded a new BMW DIY video on to youtube, can you upload it on to your channel?

[@scottmacdougall1226]

Thank you

[@tlezze91]

A few times over a month or so while parked not running at all I have heard some noise sounding like it's coming from the dashboard I never reacted to it I thought it was nothing

[@craigbrown1814]

tlezze91 that’s what mine does. Did you replace the FSU and did it go away? Also, does it drain your battery? I just got my car 2 days ago and I know nothing. Thank you

[@tayyarsanli847]

@@craigbrown1814 did you manage to fix it i have the same problem idk if you will see this