It's been done before, but it's never something I would ever attempt or recommend. Sure the LS is cheap and powerful, but that's not what the E39 M5 is about. I think the S62 makes the M5 an M5.

Somewhere around $200 per side.

First half as in starting from the handle? This would not affect the hood's ability to latch shut.

This is called the BlueBus, and it's far and away the best $200 you'll ever spend on your M5! www.bluebus.dev

The parts/links in the description are just for the seal; the glass does not need to be replaced.

We just replaced a cat that was rattling in a 2002 525i sedan. The labor is brutal, be ready to spend at least 5 hours changing it. We went with a factory replacement, so it was a several thousand dollar job.

@@E39Source Owned the car for almost 20 years and love it, but it might be time to unload it to someone out of state or who wants to hot rod it anyways. No light yet... Just not right on cold starts...

That could definitely save a lot of effort, and I've seen it done before. But it's a 1/2 you-know-what solution to the problem; seal replacement is the proper factory solution. The primary concerns of a deteriorated seal are only cosmetic appearance and maybe some wind noise, so I figure folks who are concerned about this may be willing to put in the time to fix it right.

Caulk can also deteriorate fast..ever try to remove caulk? Better keep it original

@@mule666 I would assume car industry would have a proper caulk/ silicon that can withstand time and elements, wasn't talking about a 4$ tube from HD, but my bigger point is that in order to solve this specific functional problem (possible wind noise) it may be an easier and more applicable solution. coming from an engineering background, you always consider the possible risk vs. possible gain from something. Here, the procedure is so involving and so risky to so many parts (just imagine bending the inner / outer window trim pieces, not to talk about the brittle rear shades) for a gain that is questionable. i agree that for a 100% factory solution, this would be the way to go, but - 1. Would you even consider paying more for a car that has that addresses (vs a car that have its TCG and RB done, for instance?) 2. Would the gain (less wind noise) be worth the risk of hunting new window trim pieces? and to clarify - by any means, this has no intention to put Ryan's guides in any bad light. this whole discussion is thank to this wonderful how-to guides that E39Source are producing.

There are three pumps on North American-spec E39 M5s (which have the cold weather package). 1 under the hood in the small reservoir for intensive washing. This is the button at the end of the wiper stalk, you could put a more aggressive cleaning agent in there to really cut through bugs/grime. Then one in the primary reservoir for normal windshield washing. The last one is the largest one for the headlight washers.

It is on my to-do list, which has gotten very long. All of my time is spent managing the shop and keeping things going, but I plan on doing a video on the chain guides eventually.

Yes, the rest of the seat was indeed plug and play.

I'm sure it is, the E38 got loads of custom and individual options.

ANY ADVICE please and thank you

I'm sorry to hear about the trouble! I would scan the EGS (transmission computer) for codes to see what it's complaining about. That's the best place to start.

The dual stage airbags came in from May, 1999. If your E39 is earlier than that, you'll need to replace the clock spring, signal stalks, airbag module, and possibly modify the wiring. I absolutely don't recommend disabling the airbag.

Hello! I no longer use the FCP conversion kit; I work out of my own custom parts list using multiple suppliers. The transmission, shifter linkage, and pedal hardware is all the same between the M5 and M6. The only differences are the interior trims/shift knob, driveshaft, and DME software version. No difference between model years on the M6.

@@E39Source Much appreciate your unselfish feedback - very commendable! A shame I moved to ATL from LA - would've made this job a lot simpler coming to you. Know any good shops in GA? Cheers again.

@@rulebraking You're welcome! We're the only shop in the United States offering this service. Most of the cars we do come in from the midwest, east coast, or west coast. I can recommend a shipper if you'd consider that!

@@E39Source Having another trucking outfit won't hurt. Continue reviewing all my options and gotta say, your web site content is encyclopedic! Making a nightmare of undertaking just a tough job- but most importantly allowing me to keep my sanity! Truly "Wow"!! Couple of Qs -what's your 2024 labor cost for M6 conversion with most, if not all hardware supplied. BTW - i see no mention of the M5 starter motor replacement* with the s65 6 spd flywheel (* in your parts SS). Per kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6i8fYaZf7V7nNU (minute 2:31 on) or did i miss something? Continue doing a bunch of searching and costings!

@@rulebraking Please email me at [email protected] so I can give you the shippers details in addition to cost estimates. The starter motor does not need to be changed; the S85 and S65 use the same flywheel teeth! Starter motor replacement is very labor intensive though, so I'd wait until it fails before digging into that job. Thanks!

We'd need the car in the shop to diagnose the no-start issue, lots of issues could cause that. Are you local to San Diego?

@@E39Source Unfortunately not, I'm in Florida. Car was good after the guides and timing, drove for 2 days, got in to start the car, engine started low oil pressure/ turn off engine came across cluster. I did but a winding sound from under the engine, would not stop until I disconnected the battery.

That engine has definitely been opened before, you need to replace those missing nuts ASAP!

@@E39SourceThank you. Do they have a specific torque to tighten them too? Many thanks.

@@E39SourceAh! I’ve now figured out what it was….It was ME! LOL I had inadvertently removed them myself as I was taking the covers off because it’s possible to remove them through the holes in cover once the top fixings and black rubber grommets are removed. I thought they were part of what was holding the cover on. DUH! Of course, now I realise that I didn’t need to and shouldn’t have removed them. I was so sure this engine has definitely never been opened. Thanks again. P.S now near the stage of seating the gaskets and covers again. Done a couple of dummy runs on one side without any sealant in the places you suggest to see how it sits. Unfortunately, it seems like another nightmare coming up because on the E31 there is zero visibility to those half-moons and can barely feel them with a hand! Each time so far I can feel they’re not right! 😠

I bought these seats already refurbished by someone in Eastern Europe; I'm not sure how he went about the refurbishing.

I think maybe 4-5 hours taking my time.

The N62 V8 transmissions will not work. You need the GS653BZ manual from either the E9x M3 or 6-speed M5/M6 (good luck finding those).