BMW E39 M5 - Front Wishbone Replacement DIY

In this DIY, we replace the front wishbones (straight lower control arms) on a 2000 BMW E39 M5. It will be the same process for any V8 E39.
Required Parts:
(1) Front Left Wishbone: 31121141961
(1) Front Right Wishbone: 31121141962
(2) Wishbone to Subframe Bolt: 31303450534
(2) Wishbone to Subframe Nut: 33326760668
(2) Wishbone Ball Joint Washer: 31106779382
(2) Wishbone Ball Joint Nut: 31106769443
Torques:
Wishbone to Subframe: 58lb/ft AT RIDE HEIGHT
Wishbone Ball Joint Nut to Knuckle: 59lb/ft
Stabilizer Link to Stabilizer Bar: 44lb/ft
Stabilizer Link to Strut Bracket: 48lb/ft
Strut Pinch Bolt: 81lb/ft
Wheel to Hub: 89lb/ft
E39Source WEBSITE: www.E39Source.com
BMW M3Source: / e65source
BMW E46Source: / e46source
BMW Reviews: / steptronic87

[@dafugees18]

Finally! I've missed these diys, please keep them coming! Ever run into a no cluster/radio situation? Checked and replaced the LCM, no luck...

[@E39Source]

Thanks for the feedback! No cluster or radio... that is strange. Perhaps the general module has something to do with this? Reference www.e39source.com/downloads. We host .PDF files with specifics on the E39 Bus systems, which would help you find your issue. Good luck!

[@AJGreen-cn8kk]

Big fan of FCPeuro! Glad they're getting some publicity.

[@Bardelo]

Great now I have a guide how to change them on my e39 m54b22. Thanks from România, great job.

[@lagemme9740]

U r the best bro) keep it up! We need your videos

[@rosenpcj]

Another great video. Love my 2000 M5 (and my 1992 850i) :-)

[@1995RangeRover]

This is the best control arm DIY vid so far. Great work! Have to do the same on my E38 Sport!👍

[@DannysGarage]

I did a full suspension overhaul front and back with Lemforder components + Koni Yellow shocks on my 540it, it's worth every penny. I bought everything from FCP Euro so when it wears out I'll get it all replaced for free.

[@waynezwzhang]

great DIY video! one minor thing: I think the torque number on the pinch nut that holds the strut is 81 NM (about 60 ft-lb) NOT 81 ft-lb.

[@E39Source]

There are several published specs for that bolt online, in both NM and ft-lbs. Either way, it's tight and not going anywhere!

[@mr1hander]

That looks like fun compared to mine ..2000 5t0i msport.. the wishbone bones would not come out .broke a ball joint separator after waiting all night with pressure on it to pop...and it did not pop loose..ended removing the whole hub and using 1.5 inch diameter rod of 1144 stressproof ...and beathem out with a 5 pound sledge and the entire metal insert came out of the hub. Had to cut the ball joint section off the wishbone then press the ball joint out of the inserts in a 10ton press while heating them with map gas torch .. the releases were like guns going off ..it was a nightmare..no I have to figure out how to press the steel inserts back in to the hubs without damaging them ..ridiculous but challenging

[@IntenseGrid]

Excellent video! Got a link to your parts supplier? Do the 528i's have the same pinch bolts so I can adjust the height with them?

[@waynegagnon474]

great video, only thing most of time the bushing sleeve also comes off with the control arm. You need that bushing in the knuckle , lots of heat and a pry bar to free it off old control arm

[@E39Source]

I have never had this happen in dozens of changes, though I use a balljoint press now which may help keep the sleeve in the carrier.

[@waynegagnon474]

@@E39Source your luckier then me, doing the drivers side on thursday.I hope that bushing stays in place.Your video was a big help. Thanks

[@stig1011]

Wish the UK had FCP Euro or ECS tuning :(

[@abdusofia3150]

you should use febi patrs it's hight quality

[@destahd]

Hey mate, awesome video. Thank you. How long did the whole process to start to finish? Cheers!

[@E39Source]

I think I was in about 4 hours. I could have certainly done it quicker. I also had to go to Harbor Freight to get those wrenches.

[@thrty8street]

Do you need to get an alignment after you replaced these parts?

[@thrty8street]

What symptoms where you experiencing that prompted you to change the control arms? Was it just the visual inspection that failed?

[@E39Source]

It hadn't yet gotten bad enough to feel or hear symptoms of the failing arms. I noticed the tears during a visual inspection and decided to just replace them before they got any worse. But creaks, clunks, suspension play- will all eventually result.

[@emajlo]

Only Lemförder

[@thrty8street]

Would this fix a vibration feeling under braking around 40-50 mph?

[@E39Source]

Probably not- that is usually caused by worn traction struts (the other front control arm).

[@thrty8street]

E39Source thanks for the quick reply. Are those the same as thrust arms? If so, I already replaced those. Any other ideas?

[@svenskfox]

Hey Ryan, was that you with your dad in the F355 at the Shell in Carmel Mountain Ranch yesterday evening? I was the tool in the dirty GTI.

[@E39Source]

Yes! That was my father and I getting gas.

[@svenskfox]

Thought so! Car looked/sounded nice. Do you live out here now or just visiting him? I haven't watched your channel in a while and couldn't remember.

[@E39Source]

Half and half. I spend a ton of time in Southern California but most of my stuff is still in Ohio (most notably the M5!)

[@vbsource6209]

Why did you decide to go back to the OEM front rotors?

[@E39Source]

Because they actually work! Every other rotor I have tried warps within 5,000 miles. The OEM ones last at least 40,000 miles.

[@vbsource6209]

E39Source That’s good to know. I’m willing to order drilled and slotted rotors from TurnerMotorsport. My M5 is driven like 3-4 months every year, and I never drive it that hard to even notice the difference between slotted/drilled and OEM rotors, even though I know that drilled rotors make no sense in the City. But I just like the way they look, I think they are more suited tu the M5. Any recommendations? Or should I still go for the OEMs?

[@E39Source]

I highly recommend sticking with the OEM rotors. Drilled/slotted ones can look cool, but actually provide less stopping power, and very likely won't last nearly as long.

[@jonzxcv]

FCPEuro. The best or nothing

[@mikemoyercell]

Steve D your talking to me right!? Lol I’m in perkasie area and I work in Doylestown. I’ll email you.

[@jonzxcv]

I'm in Doylestown also

[@mikemoyercell]

Jonathan Plugaru cool, I forgot to email you but I will make sure I do it in the morning. If you need parts you can pick them up right at the dealer I’m at. I’m gonna email you more info.

[@mikemoyercell]

Lol sorry I thought you were the other guy. But yeah if you need bmw parts let me know as well. I can get you a good price

[@jonzxcv]

I'll keep that in mind

[@Codeman785]

This is exactly the same on a 530 right?

[@E39Source]

I would check for different toque specs, but yes.

[@IntenseGrid]

Oh, and what was the total cost of the parts?

[@E39Source]

I got the parts through FCP Euro (fcpeuro.com) for around $400 bottom line (all hardware, shipped, tax). I do not know if the 528i has the same exact pinch bolt, but the setup should be very similar. Note that that bolt is NOT for adjusting the ride height to your liking, but only to factory specs.

[@kushanboteju573]

does it need an alignment after this ?

[@E39Source]

Not really, but if you haven't for a while, it certainly wouldn't hurt.

[@kushanboteju573]

@@E39Source i got it last august do you think its time ?

[@E39Source]

@@kushanboteju573 it depends on the roads around you and how you drive it. I usually go ever 1-2 years.

[@kushanboteju573]

@@E39Source thanks Ryan