BMW E39 Strut Replacement DIY

[@alikahil9620]

Damn...I thought I had bad oil leaks. Very detailed video. Appreciate you taking the time to do it.

[@Soldier4Christ96]

Thank you so much you made it so easy and simple for us. I don't have to sear for any other videos to assist me.

[@GalaxyBoy123lol]

That's messed up...you give great details and cover everything in my book at this point and someone puts a thumb down out there. Keep up the work I'm sure it took hella' time just to even up load the vid'...good job.

[@Jessyhgt]

very good video, just a little advice for friends with e39, I made the change with a Bilstein B14 kit there a few days, removing the delicate piece Minute 9:07 I dismounted directly 16mm bolt to which it is connected (the one you see at 12:12) it is simpler is less risky, more like that you do not pull on the wires

[@patrikfloding7985]

The springs are not supposed to sit in what looks like the natural position on the rubber pad! If you are on the original springs and shocks, I suggest photographing the spring position at both ends before compressing the spring. To fix this after installation, you might be able to slightly compress the spring and then turn it.

[@jamesmaddison704]

Really good video... thanks. Thought I'd add a few comments for anyone doing this job. The cool homemade ramps are not needed since the jack is placed in center of car. For the spring compressing, I put a Sharpie mark on the socket and count revs as I turn the bolts. I do 3 revolutions on first bolt, and then 6 revolutions each side thereafter (3 to catch up, and 3 to get ahead)... it keeps the sides even. A socket on a cordless drill helps speed things up near the beginning, but will fry the drill if used too long. I hung a towel over the side of the car to protect the paint, which would do better than tape if the metal banged. I took off the rotor to make things easier to work with. It is held on with a little screw with a hex hole in it, so it comes out easily, and really makes things accessible for the added 3 minutes to remove/reinstall. A few things not mentioned in video: 1: the Bilstein front struts have an internal bump stop, so you can discard the factory one on the car and not worry about not having one when replaced. 2: there is an alignment mark on the strut that needs to align with the little slot where you put the screwdriver in. Not sure how important that is, but they suggest it, and it makes the installation match the way the strut was on the car (lobe of strut angled outward and slightly rearward). Very easy to visually line up before tightening bolts. But this video made a daunting task easy. My old strut could be compressed with about 3 pounds of weight on it. No wonder it felt out of control when I was on a bumpy road. On mine, the last person to install the tie rod end stripped the bolt and the hex hole got destroyed. Lucky I got it out. Had to buy a new tie rod end outer section. Your voice sounds kind of like the guy who narrates the video for "Canada $ the United States: Bizarre borders Part 2". A very interesting listen about the border between these fine countries.

[@gusti77]

Thanks so much for these videos... I have the Bentley manuals, but every now and then you need to see the actual thing done like this. You got me out of being stuck, several times!

[@bobogto100]

Thanx for the video. Very good. I need to get my 3 month old KONI's from my totaled car to my new E39 so this is big help. Thanks again. And forget about Bilstein or Sachs, go with KONI. I got the adjustable ones- more expensive but you know it's worth it.

[@1995RangeRover]

Will be useful for my '97 E38! Thanks for posting!

[@BullyOneBrandTV]

I've never seen some one, take off soooooooo much for the rear shocks, good god man

[@MINIzguy]

Very nice but a few criticisms. First, the dust boot should cover the whole piston rod or else dirt would get on it and wear out the strut quicker. Second, mention more torque values and suspension consumables such as strut tops, bump stops and spring pads.

[@DaytonCarCare]

Not necessary to compress your wheel assembly to get tie rod end back on. Only if it helps line it up better. Typically when replacing control arm bushings you want to compress the ride height to normal before tightening the bolt on the bushing. Since tightening beforehand and then lowering the car upon it's own weight would tear the bushing. With tie rods they are designed for angles.

[@prberli]

Thanks for this, im doing h&r springs on my m5 soon..

[@MINIzguy]

Also, I'll be doing this DIY this summer and will probably be going with coilovers/camber plates. If you still need springs, I'll let mine go for cheap.

[@TheKRVR]

Great video, Colt. I watched it all the way through and although I hope not to have to do that soon, I feel like I gained a lot from the video. Nice work, bud!

[@boostedwolfie]

Easiest by far is to jack up one front wheel, slide some wood under it, lower the car and then jack from the front center crossmember jack point. Just do NOT forget to put the wood back under a wheel or youll need a new front bumper when you let the car down!

[@QuebecOffroading]

i rarely give out thumbs up or subscribe...but your vids are so instructive and cover everything, so i am subscribed and give thumbs up for your good vids man, keep it up, im a jeep guy and my new bmw is all foreign to me lol

[@markbohannan]

Love the videos! I just bought a 98 540i. I have changed the Air filter, Oil and filter, Fuel filter, Spark plugs! planning on doing the shocks and struts! I have an issue with my radio, it seems the previous owner had an after market stero in it, and when selling didnt hook up the AM/FM part. Meaning it lights up when I start the car, there is a loud phone sounding dial tone, I can push buttons to see the mileage and range in gas. I'm wondering if you guy can do a tutorial on removing the unit and maybe info on proper connection

[@E39Source]

Assuming you don't have navigation, your radio is a mix between the MID (small narrow display in dashboard) and the CD player. I would simply pull those out and poke around. Check the AUX DIY for Kennan's 525i to see how those components pull out properly.

[@dusty1688]

Hi thank you for your reply :) maybe that's true who know but what bugs me is that I am the original owner and it was completely level before. Good instructional vid btw :)

[@ruffypoo]

Great video but I am glad you turned off the robot mode. You sounded like a ro bot in the beginning. When you got towards the rear you speech started to make me feel sane again. I was telling myself boy I hope he doesn't have a wife lol. Anyhow I am glad for the video and how detailed you were doing the process! very good (little to long with the spaces between your words) and well worth watching.

[@Im4ever2b]

Could you tell me the website that show the picture of the backside of the brake, Thank you.

[@TheExtraordinaryPhil]

Nice work.

[@Illusmare]

You actually don't have to remove the tie rod end for this. Did it yesterday and it works just fine if you turn the steeringwheel in the opposite direction of the strut you are removing. Also like someone stated you don't have to remove that much for the rear struts. Other than that, good video.

[@ThomasJonSheldon]

Hey man, I'm literally on the floor in my garage doing this right now. I have a Touring with Sport suspension and my struts were replaced last summer. I got a set of B&G lowering springs I can run with the factory sport strut so I don't actually need to remove the strut, I just need to push it down and pull it out. I'm pretty new to this process, I've only ever lifter trucks and jeeps with solid axles so these ball joints and tie rods and all this shit have me pretty perplexed. Do I need to press out any ball joints at all just to drop the strut down to and remove the spring? You guys are life savers, any advice would help. Thanks a ton. -TJ

[@QtheMisanthrope]

my rear shock absorbers are so shot i almost crashed on my way to work. Thank the germans for dsc though lol. It saved my car from an accident.

[@SamFisherK]

You don't really need a spring compressor... I changed mine without them AND without hurting myself or anybody. I actually removed struck bolt while the whole strut was in the car, then I lifted the car up and so you have spring loose...

[@dusty1688]

it definitely is. Especially as i'm euro and right hand drive, so it is baffling why the left side has risen a little over an inch. Think i'll just get some adjustable sport springs and adjust the height to have it even :)

[@maxextz]

Thanks for the video. Very good

[@gabemartinez1012]

How did the car feel after, did feel smoother, Im playing in changing my.

[@__WJK__]

A camera tripod sure would have made filming a whole lot easier/less hassle but I digress... Good video, especially calling out ALL the bolt/socket sizes... drives me crazy when people upload repair videos and FAIL to mention the socket/bolt sizes!!

[@EmoryJacob]

I'm sorry, no I'm referring to when you're about done putting everything back together after putting in the new struts. You said it would be a good idea to lift your car to ride height before tightening things down. I'm not understanding that part, that's my question.

[@E39Source]

A contributor of ours made this video. I would say tighten it after install. It should be tight in the "up in the air" stage.

[@tptrsn]

Great video! My driver's side rear spring is broken EXACTLY like yours... Was your passenger side spring broken too?

[@computiNATEor]

Where did you get your spring compressor? (and thanks for answering all the questions!)

[@E39Source]

Spring compressors can be bought from Harbor Freight, auto zone, or Amazon. Definitely get an alignment afterwards!

[@DaytonCarCare]

You can get loaner tools at the local autoparts store. Just pay for them then when you return them you get your money back. Better to pay cash than use your card because even a debit card can take a few days to get money back onto your account.

[@Catalina3600]

Splendid video! I know that by now, you've replaced the broken spring because of inspection, but is it safe to drive with that? My dad's e60 touring, aside from being... interesting shall we say, has a broken spring as well, but on the driver front side. Do you recommend that we replace it?

[@donkeenutz73]

Can you provide torque specs for all nuts/hardware being tightened?

[@gassan16]

Duuuuuude!! Clean that Mac!

[@571ballin]

Wondering where I can get some metal sleeves for the front passenger suspension. Any help?

[@EmoryJacob]

Ok gotcha. So...to jack up the wheel to ride height, do I just put a jack under the wheel carrier and jack it up until it doesn't move anymore and then tighten the sway bar end link and ball joint steering knuckle?

[@E39Source]

You would need to buy a set of lowering struts and springs if you're trying to lower your car.

[@richboss302]

Great how-to videos, thanks. I've got a question.... LOL I have a 2001 540i with the M-Sport package and it obviously sits lower than a lot of E39's I've seen on a day to day basis. I want to, no I need to replace the front strut mounts and while I'm at it I want to replace the struts also. I just want to go with OEM for what came on it with the M-Sport Package but I don't want to buy Original BMW because of the outragous price. Which Bilstein struts to Sachs struts are correct? Thanks.

[@E39Source]

The OEM struts are from Sachs.

[@voltagebinary]

cool. thanks for the videos, i'm sure they will come in handy for me.

[@Asserti]

Hi there, thanks for your video! Is it normal that the top mount almost doesn't turn when installed? I'm in the process of renewing my whole front suspension, but my top mount of the strut is not really turning on the shock, like it does on e30's and e34's

[@E39Source]

+Asserti I didn't do this DIY so I don't know if they're supposed to or not. I would expect a bit of movement since the steering wheel would turn that assembly some.

[@raulassis1]

Good job, despite some scares. Have you followed the instructions on TIS manual? Also, your rear rotors look very corroded. I also need to replace mines.

[@jonathanpetit8826]

very nice

[@voltagebinary]

Just purchased my first BMW. =] '99 528i wagon. I'm curious about the struts because when I come to a stop, the car "jiggles" forward and backward slightly..is this a strut issue perhaps?

[@VincenzoSheehan]

Did they use lock tight on the lower strut bolt? I broke the knee hub drifting my e39. I got the axle nut off and the last bolt is the lower strut bolt. I've hit it with an impact gun and plenty else and it still will not budge. BTW Maryland pride, I'm on Kent island.

[@E39Source]

+Vincenzo Sheehan All I can recommend is trying to get a breaker bar in there. And hit it with penetrating oil and let it sit. It'll come off!

[@perrinromney4555]

They get real tight and jammed up taking a lot of jarring even though they aren't taking force in the primary strut load direction. This means they are way harder to get out than they are to put back in. No need to torque more than the specs call for putting back in. I imagine you might have made it even harder to get out by breaking your hub. If I remember right from when I did it, a long enough extension on your socket actually will clear you with more room to work back by the differential. I could be mistaken on that.

[@alexp.8233]

Nice vid., I was driving to work this morning n bam my strut failed, so I'm lookin at the pair of new bilstein struts, just one question is there much of difference between stock sport struts and bilstein ones

[@E39Source]

The bilstein ones are quite a bit stiffer... I recommend OEM personally.

[@computiNATEor]

***** Where is the best place to buy the OEM components?

[@E39Source]

computiNATEor ECS or Turner Motorsports are good. Also TheBMWMiniPartStore.com has better prices usually than both of the above, its what I use for almost everything. -Bobby

[@BloodScatter]

How much time did you spend on this job. Is it possible to change all four of the struts, tie rods, rotors and break pads in one day, like 12h?

[@E39Source]

Certainly is possible... if you know what you're doing, have the correct tools, a little bit of help maybe, and any bit of luck. You need all of the above though, that's a good bit of work.

[@BloodScatter]

Great, in this case I might just do this on Sunday when all of my parts arrive. Thanks!

[@thrty8street]

Do you have the link to the ball joint tool?

[@EmoryJacob]

How exactly do you jack up to ride height?? Could I just lower the car and then tighten what I need to???

[@E39Source]

Ride height is determined by the struts and springs. Lower springs with shorter struts will lower.

[@computiNATEor]

Does having folding/pass-through rear seats change the removal procedure?

[@E39Source]

The rear deck disassembly is easier.

[@heroeslll3117]

I have problem with my E39 523i. The front right wheel is lower then left. everyone told me that it will be the springs problem so i replace them both but I still have the problem. When the mechanic was replacing the springs i saw that strut was bent and he fixed it with pliers. So maybe its now the strut problem now? can the car have one side lower then other if the strut have a problem? or what else can make such a problem?

[@heroeslll3117]

please help :(

[@unapologeticallyunstoppable]

Heroeslll Camber or control arm possibly > I would get the car on a lift and start comparing the two sides.

[@Jessyhgt]

I had the same problem but on the back, a rear shock absorber for me was much softer than the other, I have to replace everything with a B14 kit

[@barneymccomas]

Do you have any idea if it's the same for the wagon? I've heard this is a fast and easy job on the wagon... but don't know why it would be any different from the sedan. Also, are the Bilsteins you installed the same as stock, or firmer? I've heard conflicting information about the HDs. I'm interested in a stock (Standard, not Sport) ride, so I'm trying to determine whether to go with original Sachs/Boge, Bilstein HD or Touring, or even saving a couple hundred dollars and going with Monroe.

[@francispowell1811]

Barney McComas, this is ancient but the rear of the Touring uses short shocks, not tall struts like the sedan. Also, the sedan uses a coil over strut design, which adds the complexity of compressing the spring.

[@kaibintech]

Nice!

[@computiNATEor]

One more... Did you take the car to get an alignment afterwards?

[@__WJK__]

Great question!

[@riazwade379]

Im told that even moderate lowering will require camber correction.....how low can we go and still get a good alignment...??? Please comment here....

[@e39source87]

Moderate lowering such as H&R springs will not effect camber greatly enough to effect alignment. Now if you start going with severe lowering with coilovers, then you may need to invest in camber plates. Hope I helped!

[@riazwade379]

Thanks so much..ecstuning.. Also I got my eye on the single mass flywheel conversation kit by valeo for the e39.....

[@dusty1688]

Hi there, i used OEM SACHS on my 2002 525i and after changing them (front...rear didnt need chagning), i noticed that the left side of the vehicle was about an inch higher than the right side. I re-checked everything and everything is lined up perfect and evenly in both sides. Did alignment and camber everything. Still the left side is a little over an inch higher than the right side.....do you or anyone have any ideas on how to solve this? even took it to the dealer and they cant figure it out

[@danielplacencia5880]

WHAT SIZE Ball Joint tool is this??? any links to where i can order one? Ebay?

[@E39Source]

+Daniel Placencia I believe it is a 24mm ball joint. You may be able to get it from eBay or rent a similar tool from Autozone or the like.

[@WhosJose]

could i follow the same process if i installing coilovers?

[@E39Source]

Yes

[@AdamAus85]

Collecting parts for this work but am unsure where to get all these new nuts from?

[@E39Source]

You shouldn't need any new nuts, just the spring/strut (which ever you're doing) and the mounts if choose to replace them.

[@AdamAus85]

Cheers, sounds good to me.

[@adrianc7372]

when do you guys recomend replacing the springs? i have m sport suspension 120k miles

[@E39Source]

+adrian c The springs should be replaced whenever they start to sag. Usually one before the other. On my M5, the rear left sagged about 1 inch by 140k miles. So I replaced the rears. The fronts are original, now at 190k miles. Both haven't sagged at all, so I don't see any need to spend the money on them.

[@abimaelvillalobos2674]

what are those spring holder called?

[@larryjohnson8168]

u should get lowered springs

[@frankdrebin6943]

That oil leak looks pretty thick.

[@killshot13000]

My struts are completely wore out on my 94. Whenever I have a hooker in the back seat it's like I have a hydraulic system in it

[@ktraoui]

WHAT'S YOUR TUMBLR?!?

[@Miro360flip]

front spring placed not correctly:)

[@computiNATEor]

You should wear gloves... Your hands will thank you later. ;) Otherwise, thanks for the great DIY!

[@goph999]

was just hoping that the car was just falling over you so I could just stop listening at you

[@zhdiy56]

So much oil leakage...lol! You gotta bigger problems than putting on a strut...haha

[@mungeesideways1060]

not to rag but there are many diff ways to go about struts on BMW, that should have been a 15min per side job, a) a h e e l

[@tr3ning]

put the hand brake on and leave it in gear then lift rear end and u fail bmw = rwd which means is u lift rear end then hand brakes and leaving in gear or park doesn't help and never ever jack up bmw on diff bc its not solid diff as u didn't know omg ppl know how to brake stuff instead of fixing it

[@sergioleone4215]

"lesser 6 cylinder". Hey, I resemble that remark! Lol.