BMW E46 Front Lower Control Arm Replacement DIY

Replacing these parts did get rid of my squeaking noise when I turned to the right.
Remember to check out: www.oembimmerparts.com
These are the OEM control arms that I installed: www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW-Fr...
My mailing address for correspondence or swag of any kind is on my about page.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.

[@rbell7666]

A couple of things I learned on doing the driver side control arm: 1.) attack the inboard ball joint nut from above with a 22MM socket on a wobble and about 2 feet of extensions. Works divinely! 2.) If you remove the sensor you can get a 19MM socket on a wobble on the outboard ball joint nut; 3.) The clamshell ball joint separator works on the outboard ball joint-you just have to tap in in place with a hammer and use the rattle gun to turn the screw, while you will need to use the picklefork to seperate the inboard ball joint; 4.) When installing the new ball joints put the jack underneath them to force the taper up into the hole so you won't have to use that 6mm Allen key. Thanks for the video, Kid! I was supremely helpful!

[@robertolombardi8936]

Using the extensions instead of attacking it from below is brilliant. Worked like a charm. Thank you!!

[@rbell7666]

@@robertolombardi8936 Glad to hep!

[@Fhantom99]

QUICK TIPS: 07:56 --> Rent a BALL JOINT SEPARATOR from your autoparts store 28:31 --> Push the bushing onto the control arm BEFORE your secure it to the car (BONUS: Use SOAP, SILICONE, or any WATER BASED LUBRICANT (e.g., K-Y) to lube up the bushing)

[@thefoetoid]

Love that you leave the little learning lessons in the videos. I've done the same thing with the allen key in the past, and I'm sure I'll do it again. The little reminder in between the now next job where I need to do that though might make me less prone to doing it.

[@leoteruel2756]

I don't even need new control arms since I changed them recently, but i enjoy watching this and learning. Props to you man, hope you are doing what you love.

[@krosst09]

The 50's Kid is most informative, he explains how to do the job well and makes the job easy - thank you, great job

[@Beemergirl89]

I love your videos because you get right to the point with important information on torque specs. Installing the bushings on before really saved a few strains and Swearwords.

[@Shas4Ever]

I watch your videos almost everyday and I love your passion and work! Great BMW Enthusiast!

[@paul17109]

That 21mm 3/8" socket with a long driver that wiggles, OMG! That is a life saver! I was trying to get all sorts of wrenches in there. Thank you!!!

[@Wipsplash]

I appreciate the videos you make. You do a good job and show how the process works so viewers have an idea of what to expect.

[@colinfairclough1653]

My job for this weekend, fitting TRW control arms, your vids are going to save me a lot of money, thanks.

[@myxipitlik2]

Thank you Jason for a great and comprehensive video, very informative.

[@bbq_wing_tray]

I know this video has been uploaded a while ago. but yesterday I changed my wishbones and engine mounts. just want to say a huge thanks to you for both videos. wouldn't of done it with out them! thanks dude! ❤️

[@IWTBF]

What’s the bush part could? Suspension arm bush? Would it not make sense to put a new one on?

[@jimcalomeris1460]

So helpful! Glad there is guys out there like you,

[@pschroeterps]

Thanks for this man! Used this as a basis for replacing my control arms today and it worked like charm if you can call removing those two center nuts from below a charm. Good news was that they all could be losened quite easily. Love the Lemfoerder parts, I now have a completely redone frontend and also enjoyed your tie rod one. As for my old control arms I had a shot bushing on the right wheel carrier control arm point and it wasn't visible or could be made to move but at the alignment shop they noticed out of line negative camber on the wheel so that confirmed it. I have to say it makes sense to do everything in reasonably short order as damage on one part quickly travels to the others like stab links, tie rods, dampers, strut bearings, etc. Keep up the good work!

[@IWTBF]

What’s the bush part could? Suspension arm bush? Would it not make sense to put a new one on?

[@blackforestgifts]

Did this many times on my daughters 2003 Z4 she has had since new, she runs over many curbs, a suggestion use dish washing liquid for bushings, they go on by hand and put them on the control arms prior to mounting the control arms on the car. I have also used a pneumatic gun with a pickle fork on the inner ball joints to pop them loose. Also do not forget to get an alignment.

[@SirFrancoQ]

Thank you maestro for another excellent tutorial vid! I played it on my iPad while replacing my control arms👍🙌🔧🔨

[@sondangsiregar1993]

Hi Jason thanks for the video. I learn how to do the right thing about replacement the lower control arm.

[@kennysimon633]

Definitely using this video when I swap out my control arms for the E46 325xi

[@bigzkiller123]

Wow thanks! Got mine swapped out in just over an hour. Great explanation!

[@jesseortega8598]

Awesome! I'm going to keep this video because I'm going to replace both of mine very soon! Thanks for this!

[@condemn1214]

Thanks for all your videos. My car is driving good. Very detailed!

[@YxungHermes]

You made this video on the same day I changed mine . That’s funny. Car handles amazing after the install I hope yours does as well

[@rodiddy4983]

Your video's are very educational. You explain very well. Thank you!

[@froskii3315]

Thanks for the Videos. I just want to say a couple things on this job. First off because i am cheap i ordered after market control arms and mine didn't come with the hole drilled in it for the adaptive lights so that's something to watch for when ordering the part. Also i used a ball joint fork to separate the control arm instead of bashing it with a hammer it's works well and seemed a lot easier then the heavy hammer smash. I will be doing the drivers side on Sunday and hoping once that's done the wheel alignment is closer to where it should be because after only doing one side it looks way off.

[@ralphc8500]

Great video and easy to follow along and right to the point some guys go on and on before they even start the work. I only comment I think that would make your video better is showing torquing the nuts/bolts to the factory recommended torque. It would save your viewer lots of time looking them up. Thanks

[@JM8686]

Hey keep up the great work man ,amd congrats on your sponsor!! Now The way i see if there is any play is lifting the front of the car and then hold both sides of the tire with my hands and give it some play left to right and then up and down 👌just how i show on one of my videos!!

[@paul17109]

What I did instead of putting the allen wrench in the joint in the LCA, I put a floor jack directly underneath it which pushed it up enough that the stud didn't rotate and the I used your 21mm 3/8" ratchet trick to get it tight. Much faster!

[@taylorellis8017]

Hey 50's Kid! Exciting to hear about OEMBimmerparts sponsoring your videos and providing those parts! I was super happy for you to get that exposure and hope that your videos continue to gain steam and pay you back. I'll certainly go check out OEMBimmerParts.com. I've been benefiting from your videos for a while, and I just wanted to say thank you so much for the time you put into it and the effort you make to offer helpful tips and tricks and make it fun. There's only a small group of awesome DIY-ers for these E46's, and I think, at this point, each of the videos you and the others make help to boost views of your own AND each other's videos. I often will watch two or three different tutorials (or as many as I can find) before I tackle a specific project myself. I've been happy to see you guys commenting on each others videos. Great teamwork. Please keep it up as long as you feel inclined to! Your tutorials are the reason I've decided it will be doable and enjoyable to keep my car for another 100k miles (I've had the car since it was still under warranty, and I really want to hit 300K miles just to see if I can.) These cars are so stink'n fun to mess around with. The only repair so far that I really don't want to do myself is the rear axle bearings. I looks like too much elbow grease required. Maybe if I was young enough to still have summer vacations, or if I were retired, I would enjoy doing that one myself.

[@tbone1493]

Thanks for posting. I am getting ready to do this job and its great to have a good video to learn before I do.

[@dubf24]

How did your job work out?

[@SmellySnowBalls]

also if you arent using it again, you can use a big fork thingy to loosen the ball joints. Atleast if you have been driving on roads with salt, then a regular hit isnt always enough. Great video, and nicely explained everything.

[@tylermutal6121]

thanks for all the help! just replaced the control arms on my 2001 325i

[@chaseramos4865]

How long did it take??

[@tylermutal6121]

@@chaseramos4865 took me about 3 hours by myself. Without a car lift

[@hagrdan]

Thanks much for these videos, they are great! A couple hints for those doing this job--for outer control arm joints, use a 12" 3/8" extension on the nut on the top of the ball joint and swing a sledge straight down to bang it loose. If you're going to use a sledge like this video, I suggest also using a prybar to add some tension to give the shock some direction when swinging the sledge instead of relying on gravity. Another quick trick--instead of using an allen wrench when tightening up the new ball joints, use a $20 cheap jack to apply a little pressure to the bottom of the control arm to wedge the ball joint, which is chamfered and will grab when forced in, into the knuckle hole to keep it from the turning. You can then use a socket or impact gun to tighten the nut instead of a wrench. One more--shove the control arm bushings onto the arms before installing the arms. You can use your weight to push them onto the arms. In the e30/36 days you couldn't do this but now that the CABs have a hex hole for alignment, just mount them at the same angle the old ones are at. Just did my oil filter manifold gasket and CCV at the same time referring to your vids. Removing the filter manifold gave a little more room for the CCV vs. doing the two jobs separately.

[@drewdougherty4373]

Awesome info my man 👍

[@IWTBF]

What’s the bush part could? Suspension arm bush? Would it not make sense to put a new one on?

[@lak4927]

hi from france, i like your videos because you have the same little problems that we have when we do it ourself, very good job. you go in the details, my bmw don't make me scare now,,,

[@creepingdeth141]

Love your videos man Thanks for everything you do! My speedo is out and I’m not sure what’s happened. I replaced the speed sensor and still nothing. Checked all the fuses, which are fine and still nothing Can you make a video about this and hopefully help fix it?

[@Disgruntalpunk]

Anytime your dealing with bushings against metal, it's highly recommended that you apply an Antiseize compound to help prevent that annoying bushing squeek.

[@bence.gabor.slezak]

I find it easier to get the bushing end off first, then the ball joint from the subframe with a fork ball joint separator and the arm moving around the scissor type ball joint separator can get in between the arm and the knuckle to get it out. I also made a "special bmw" bushing tool, a threaded rod bent to a U, a 25x25 square tube with a few holes and a couple nuts. The bushing goes on with no effort at all. Big help when only the bushing needs to be replaced and there is limited space under the car.

[@seanmarrero3461]

Awesome. It’s 20 degrees in PA and didn’t want to figure it out in the cold lol thank you

[@a4ewer]

Nice video...i had problem with my left control arm that was making clunky noise all time, then i bought one to change it by myself, but after i checked my older control arm, the internal bolt was loose and i don't know how that happen, but i strengthen it because it was as a new one already, and i return to shop the new one i bought as one mistaken purchase.

[@aljanet1514]

Excellent as usual!! Thank you.

[@ChrisKsan]

It's ok, mine are knocking like crazy and I think it's gotten to the point where the right wheel is vibrating. Hope the bearings are not damaged. Now trying to get enough money to fix it. Need to do a full brake job first, disks, pads etc.

[@Disgruntalpunk]

Generally, you never want to use a ratcheting tool of any kind to break a bolt loose or to apply high amounts of torque. Use Breaker Bars and Standard Box End Wrenches to break bolts loose and a torque wrench to apply final torque when possible. This will help you prolong the life of your ratcheting tools.

[@gregsmith332]

The thing is Jason hates torque wrenches and he believes that he could do everything by feel because he's lazy.

[@Mrbfgray]

@@gregsmith332 If I'm rebuilding an engine, or installing heads, say, I'll follow the torque specs and pattern to a T plus maybe add a couple intermediate steps but always ending at listed torque. Most other things we do just fine by a finer FEEL. We don't get torque fails, if you do, do what you gotta do to do it right next time.

[@gregsmith332]

@@Mrbfgray You can't hammer away on axle/ suspension nuts and bolts-which also have listed torque specs-with an 800+ ft-lb impact wrench "by feel". That's just you being lazy.

[@Mrbfgray]

@@gregsmith332 If you really want to do it right you should not go by torque but by bolt elongation, thread friction can vary significantly and obviously effects torque. Are you too lazy to measure elongation or do the strain calculations? Sounds like it.

[@gregsmith332]

@@Mrbfgray Did you design the cars?

[@NathansBMWWorkshop]

On that inner ball joint I go in from under the hood, using a 3ft extension with a 3/8 impact universal you can impact that nut right off

[@cadong92692]

provide pictures of how you did this

[@cadong92692]

entitled for clarification?

[@fuckjewtube69]

No. Entitled for demanding that he takes the time out of his day to lift his car and take the wheel off just to take pictures for you. You didnt ask, you demanded. Why would you think someone would do that for you? Thats the definition of entitlement.

[@cadong92692]

he does not need to take wheels off if he says go in from under the hood

[@vincephan344]

@@cadong92692 pop the hood, look down with a flashlight, there's a clear path to that bolt, impact and extension will pop it right off.

[@tristinwrenn1723]

If your doing this in the midwest here’s some tips. -get a good ball joint pickle fork to pop off the ball joints because they will be a mother to get off. -the subframe bolt will most likely be rusted up top so your 6mm allan that stops the shoulder bolt from spinning will strip. you can use a cut off wheel and cut the bolt or get a dremel with a grinding wheel on it and put 2 flat spots onto the shoulder bolt and clamp vice grip pliers to the flats to stop it from spinning. Also, if you upgrade to the Meyle HD kit, i noticed i started to hear my tie rods a lot more now that the control arms and bushings aren’t sloppy, so may be a good decision to check the tie rods while your already underneath the car 🫡

[@williamparker2730]

Great video's and instruction for the average guy!! Keep up the good work...one question what is the deference in the "sport" lower control arm. I have an 06, 330ci with sport suspension.

[@shayparrish3440]

hello, i have a 325xi and im trying to figure out if control arms for a 325i would work for an xi model. thank you for your help!

[@paul17109]

The factory ball joint nut is a 19mm. A writeup I had seen said that using aftermarket LCA was OK but discard te fasteners and use real BMW nuts so I did it.

[@emilio325]

Removing the 21mm nut on the inside of the subframe is absolutely brutal for us fellow rust-belters.. took me 8 hours of hackin’ and whackin’.. I would highly reccommend that you first work the nuts completely off before attempting to shock the taper off.. the locked on taper will allow you to work the nut off.. if you shock it loose before you take the nut completely off you never will as its a lock nut.. I ended up having to remove the alternator and a power steering line to gain just enough room to fit my makita 4” grinder in there to cut the head of the stud off.. so take those nuts off completely before attempting to hammer shock the tapers loose..

[@kodyburdick1785]

So nice to find exactly what I need ❤️

[@damaestro5667]

Hey, i need to change the valve stem seals on my m54 engine, what do you think which way is safer/easier : remove the whole cylinder head without touching the camshafts or leave the head in place and remove the camshafts ?

[@danbruns6862]

Very nice video. A couple of questions, though: [1] Was this done with the vehicle on jack stands? Is this doable without a hydraulic lift? [2] If jack stands are used, how does one get the jack stands under the reinforced area of the frame/body when the jack is on that same (small) area? Thx again for the informative video.

[@creativemischief5403]

Usually there is a “special orientation” marker that the rear rubber bushing has to be aligned to on the control. When full weight of the car is put on the suspension is put on this point, the rubber will be twisted and but into a “bind” leading to premature wear...at lease that’s how it was on my E36...nice video though

[@josemaldonado9044]

Can the crankshaft sensor keep the check engine light on if I’ve already replace my E46 intake sensor???

[@simonhill6267]

I cant believe over a 100,000 people need to change their e46 control arms. Crazy lol Very surprised you didnt put bushing back on before putting the new arm back on

[@redstorm1818]

I just did this today! I used a bunch of extension bars and got that tricky nut from under the bonnet/hood, it’s way easier I think. Love your videos keep them coming 🙂

[@e_46king14]

Hi I just had a quick question is the 323i in the 325i have the same mounting points? So if I buy a 325 engine will it fit down in my 323 and fit my transmission

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

The wheel alignment can be way off after replacing those arms.

[@ajr_e46]

So that’s why you take it to an alignment shop

[@sydbell8508]

Will not putting socket on wheel nut,with car on ground, and moving socket back and forth show it up ?? And does it pull to the side which has gone,on braking ? As for hitting wheel speed sensor, l would tape a couple of thick washers over it.

[@aw349]

you make this job so hard .you can get to the middle bolt from the top of engine with a long reach bar socket and also you can then torque wrench the bolt as for the front ball joint use a folk bar and use a jack under ball joint or heat with blow torch i have replaced two in a hour with car on axle stands . MEYLE HD ARMS are the best powerflex bushes on the rear

[@peteb1854]

I've found OEMBIMMERPARTS to be pretty good. Have used them several times in the past and have in fact bought a pair of lower control arms a few weeks ago. Good selection of suppliers and the price is right too.

[@michaelc99]

Literally just replaced control arm on my 325xi and I used a pickle fork for the ball joint, worked the best for me.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I agree, use a pickle fork. Those inner joints can be very hard to crack loose.

[@connerhodgkins3617]

Excellent content as always, thanks for the video and all you do for the E46 / BMW community! I'll be tackling this job soon. Would you recommend using a dead blow hammer for freeing the ball joints? My thoughts were that it could likely be more controlled and do substantially less damage to the control arm if you planned on re-using it.

[@50sKid]

Use a brass hammer to do the least amount of damage. I don’t think a deadblow hammer will transfer enough shocking force but you can try it.

[@connerhodgkins3617]

Just wanted to follow up on this - after a ball-peen hammer got me nowhere (was all I had) I went ahead and sprung for the 4lb sledge. Made real short work of the ball joints paired with a pickle fork! Would highly recommend that combo to anyone contemplating attempting this job for the first time.

[@herrbrahms]

Is there a particular reason you didn't use a balljoint separator fork to break the bolts out of the tapered recesses?

[@Armednready87]

My subframe bushing bolt spins with the 21mm nut. The allen end of the bolt has too much play to securely hold down the bolt in place to then turn the nut. Any advice?

[@donaldwhiteman3224]

I would've used spit . hey it works too! what kind of impact is that, iwant to invest in 1? please thank you!

[@Viperoloff01]

My dads 330i wanders all over the road(230,000kms/145,000miles), mine identical car(192,000kms) is planted. Could that be control arms as bushes has been replaced 2months back or something else?

[@shahzeboy1609]

Hey, so i think my car has the same issue but im not sure, if i let the steering go the car pulls to the right, if its a uneven road or really bumpy the car cannot go straight and it just goes left or right really hard, breaking over 100km causes the whole car to vibrate, is the control arm to blame?

[@jm2081]

Put the bushings on before bolting the CA to the mounts by: putting the CA on first without tightening the nut all the way, and put the bushings off to the side of where they go lining them up with the angle and depth they'll rest and make a mark, take the CA back off, and using a rubber mallet and soapy water, pound the bushings on, then put the CA back on (tighten) and quickly adjust the bushings to where they go before the soapy water dries up, put the bolts in and torque it to 44ftlbs per the Bentley manual.

[@Disgruntalpunk]

Would a pickle fork work to pop those tapered bolts out?

[@dman7673]

How do you get the ball joint on the knuckle off I hit it as hard as I could still nothing?

[@millzmo93]

Hey man i have a 325xi 2003 and don’t really have all the funds right now for everything wondering can i replace just bushings and not the control arm? I know my bushings are definitely bad but not sure if control arm HAS to be replaced?

[@warrenhedrick9146]

I got mine from o'reilly, they came with a lifetime warranty. They lasted about two years, not a long time, but the replacements are free. So cheaper just to replace them for free.

[@beyondrepair8949]

Except for the extra work involved. Not a problem if you like to do this sort of thing and you have no other repairs on your car to do because its already sorted.

[@Disgruntalpunk]

Observation, the Top inner nut for the passenger side. Even if your ratchet gets stuck your knocking the bolt out anyway. If you back the nut off and get stuck, just tap out the control arm until it stops and continue backing the nut off then working the bolt out until the bolt is out and then pull out your ratchet with the nut.

[@jasonputtock4428]

Hey bud. Do you still have that wishbone hanging around.???? I really need help . I want to replae just the ball joint. I dont have much choice as the owner can only afford a new ball joint and not wishbone. at time index 13 min. I can see the ball joint. under the wishbone their is an upside down cup. Can this be removed at all.??? I cant remove the ball joint with thi in the way. So it would seem. thank you bud.

[@namkinh6937]

hi, Does the meyle product use well?

[@scottishmarket]

replaced my control arm and the bush, but it’s making a massive creaking/clunking every now and then it’s all tight! any idea,

[@deankim1404]

The allen keys he puts at the top of the nut to stop the bolt from spinning. how does that work? does anyone know

[@martymeyer4125]

I took that ball joint separator to the grinder, the wheel on the grinder was the perfect width to widen that gap, which allowed it to fit. I'd also advise putting the bushing on the control arm before attaching the control arm to the car. If the bushings are new, they can be a bear to muscle on, especially if they aren't from the same mfg.

[@IWTBF]

What’s the bush part could? Suspension arm bush? Would it not make sense to put a new one on?

[@andyridley2236]

Instead of hitting the control arm slide a long bar from the top of the engine bay down on top of the pin you can see the pin from the top of the engine bay if you use a torch then hit the bar with a few good blows that wll do it simple.

[@wb3904]

The tool at 11:30 can be used. The trick is to grind it out so the fork is quite a bit wider. The jack up the control arm and hammer it the f@#k in there. Ratchet it tight until you think something will break and it will pop right out with a large bang. Might damage the bushing rubber though

[@ericgon46]

Why did you need to use the Allen key when bolting the control arm?

[@HV71851]

Thank you for your videos! They have helped me tackle some of the jobs I’ve done on my wife’s 325CI. By the way, what gloves are you using?

[@50sKid]

the blue gloves are from harbor freight

[@HV71851]

50sKid Thanks!

[@zhenniu2451]

Tried using 20oz hammer and liquid wrench, not going anywhere with nice hits. Going to get a 43 oz tomorrow and try again. I don't know why my arm is stuck there so much.

[@Sancho2Fly]

You have damaged rubber cover on swing support :) I've replaced my lower control arms with meyle HD. They have exchangable ball joints.

[@KulaginDenis]

4h and I still cannot get the middle inner nut off. Euro spec has that nut at 22mm. Nothing fits in. From top also. I am lost. I managed to put the wrench but I get like 5 mm to move and cannot break it loose within those

[@andrierhardmarx9073]

Hi, have you made a rear lower control arm replacement video? Maybe with bushing replacement as well? :) love your informative vids btw!

[@50sKid]

I haven’t because I think it was done before I bought the car so I’ve never been thinking about it. But I know people want it.

[@reggiesparks4357]

your videos are great thx for taking the time out to help others.i have an e39 and an e46 and you have really helped me out.if you are ever around n.e. region of ohio pls notify me ,many bmw in the area.thx again.

[@hightower001]

Is there a driving difference after test drive?

[@Kraxt0n]

Got the passenger side done. But my 21 socket, nor my 21 wrench would fit the nut. Almost like it's a 22. Doesn't seem like it has to much rust on it however gave up and have one side done. My passenger side was so bad, now my wheel is cocked sideways when the wheels are straight. For sure need to get at the driver side. But doing this in the street and it's fixing to rain, as well as the temp being 30 right now makes me not even wanna look at the car.

[@SpyroRoar]

My steering wheel shakes at around 50-60 mph but once i go a little faster it goes away,I’ve been told that my control arms were bad. Can this be the fix for that?

[@LuisVega-zw2xe]

Did you Reuse the bushings?

[@dans364]

Great work

[@fantasticleese]

could you just use a pickle fork to separate the control arm from the steering knuckle?

[@Vjiovino]

Thank you for the video

[@jonathanbock8435]

Can you list the tools used via description box? Thanks!

[@parkerlabonte9463]

Guys make sure you look at how far the old bushings are slid onto your old control arms before you take them off, they do not bottom out when you slide them on the new control arms and you need to put them on the right amount or shit is not going to line up I fought it for like two hours also the nut for the inner ball joint isn’t exactly a 21mm a 13/16 socket works best

[@stevegoosney676]

When I turn the wheels by hand, like Jason did at 11:45... power steering fluid shoots out the reservoir cap hole.... anyone know why this happens? Thanks! Steve

[@drer7257]

I am an amateur mechanic. I replaced the control arms on my 2000, 328I, with 166K. I rented a hoist from DITY (Do it your self) $20.00/Hr. I am not a genius, but I will be pleased to share my experience. You need a powerful light source, use a protection for your head. (end-up with two nice bumps on top of my head.) I purchased the control arms (Mayle) with a preassembled bushing from oembimmerparts.com and use plenty of W-D40 to get them loose. This was a real PITA that one of the mechanics had to give me a hand for additional $25.00. After all a great experience and saved over $2000. But his is no a job for a novice. total cost with the hoist $425.00, completed in 4/hrs. The car runs like new!.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I once used silicon paste on those bushings and they creaked badly until the winter salt got to them.

[@jannu2k36]

is it safe to do on jackstands

[@afrausto2134]

03 325i here, could not remove ball joint on steering knuckle. Will resort to using air hammer with pickle fork attachment. I have new moog arms anyways so the joints I could care less about.