BMW E90 Door Lock Actuator Diagnosis

[@juanmartincorrea9652]

This is honestly very interesting, I had no idea that you could diagnose electric stuff this way. Keep it up Jason!

[@johndurcan8833]

Thanks Jason. Good to see the Pico and your setup in use - Pine Hollow is a great channel for that stuff. Very interesting.

[@steveallam]

Try taking apart the door lock and clean out the white lithium grease. It makes it stick causing it not to lock. WD-40 helps to unstuck it. I would take it apart clean up the gears and spray it with Teflon. If you could I would clean out the com of the motor as well with alcohol. Using a 15 Amp fuse is to over come the resistance of the grease. Bad move this will cause the wires to over heat. Dealer stupidity stay away from them. Great video sir.

[@Brewfu]

Thank you Kid for all your informative videos on the BMW. Trying to save a 99 323i at the moment. Next is the oil housing gasket. Thanks again for the vids

[@MarioDallaRiva]

Nice, J! Scanner Danner would be proud 💪🏼

[@Adrian-sw3nv]

Epic breakdown, wife will be happy with me needing more tools now haha

[@speralta1]

Great video. I suppose you might have been able to use a one of those fuse buddy current loop devices in place of the fuse and measure the current at the fuse box and not have had to take the door apart. Maybe?

[@50sKid]

That would be testing all 4 door lock actuators at once though, since there is no way to lock each one individually on this car (actually maybe I can do that with the scan tool -- didn't think of it).

[@Generational.holiness]

Love the videos man, is there a way to get a hold of you to ask a couple questions?

[@michaelblacktree]

The Picoscope results made my inner nerd happy. 🤓

[@eluthriastarise1770]

Great video mate, you're killin it!

[@ronan7812]

Nice video man. I liked the in depth troubleshooting. I have an E90 also and although the door locks aren't behaving like yours (not yet) I do get a door ajar indication and bong when driving. Of course all the doors a closed and locked. Did your car do that too before the locks eventually failed? Forums suggest it's an issue with the footrest module others say its the striker worn on the lock. 🤷‍♂️

[@50sKid]

Mine didn’t do that, but sounds like problems with your FRM

[@kevinbarry71]

A wonderful example of German engineering; just put in a bigger fuse

[@devinsmith4151]

I can say the door locks actutors usually last depending on your environment around 15 years approxmiately, they will fail like dominoes. Locking units unfortunately have no viable means for re-lubricating and as they age, they mechanically get stuck causing them to stick and hence unusual performance characteristics. On some makes its even worse (VW group), back in the dealer the door locks fail sometimes below 10 years, like an A6 2011 in a rather humid enviroment, both door locks log error memories, the fix is to replace both (it only has two doors), no diagnosis is even needed. Ask VW how many fuel flap locks they've sold, practically its generating so much e-waste they can't even admit. Replace parts, keep us all in business.

[@dangerclose5400]

great diag! solid info as usual.

[@Cloverleaf7642]

Great video, great comments below.

[@anthonyspeters7203]

Always interesting and informative as usual, I've an old03 33ser E46 very,not been well maintained be4 l got it little service history, in proses of doing breaking system discs,calipers, pads sensors, rear brake lines corroded some to replace, got all the things in engine bay that need to be replaced heat/age and135000mls! I've problem with central locking relays so I've got all replacement relays for gm5 module, not able to do that @moment l need to by decent soldering station with sucker attachment from Weller exspensive, but quality pro equipment I'm used to using! Thought best replaced all relays since all must be well worn save further problems! Interesting thing my previous bmws had oxcillery water pump for heater, spent ages looking for it on this car,has solenoid but no pump,heater fed from main engine water pump,wonder y they put electric pump on some not others would have save cost of exspensive electric pump!

[@edwardprincipe4854]

Do you know if BMW is repairing defective actuators as a recall and if not, any idea what the cost for replacing 2 actuators should be?

[@adequatedust]

It has been reported that the "Hack" you mention will not allow the newer model of your scope to work with the automotive software.

[@50sKid]

What’s the newer model? Not the 2204A anymore?

[@adequatedust]

@@50sKid same model but comes with different firmware or something.

[@adequatedust]

@@50sKid Still 2204a, newer firmware I guess. I believe Mechanic Mindset confirmed this on his channel.

[@50sKid]

@@adequatedust ah bummer, but I suppose it’s not absolutely required

[@48pianoman]

Hi I like what you inform us and watch you'r channel , I would like to ask a question You have seen or taken the readings of a Electric Water Pump of a BMW X3 2009 from cold till it get to its normel temperature and Running , I changed the Electric Water pump because it had a code 2E85 2E84 code and the engine was getting Hot I took Voltage meassurements 2 wires ha 12v and 1 Ground and the BSD signal wire it has the Square Wave 12 to 0 but I tried the Bleed Procidure and i have don it on other BMW but this one doesn't Bleed I check all the fuses in the engine bay and in the car passinger side all lookes good Changing the Electri Water Pump code 2E85 AND 2E84 DID NOT COME BACK ALl help would be appreciated thank you

[@LabracadabradorBamboozle]

had this fail on me when I arrived at a mall. I had to climb out the window in the parking lot.

[@cespaillat11]

Could this be a bad connection or ground issue?

[@50sKid]

I think either one of those cases wouldn't draw excessive current. A short circuit would, though.

[@nikolasstijelja1903]

NOOO! What happened to your e46?!

[@RonaldE.Lynchjr.-ui1ol]

Knows what he is doing, but just get to the point, keep falling asleep