BMW F10 N55 Boost Solenoid Replacement - Drivetrain Malfunction Fixed

BMW F10 N55 Boost Solenoid Replacement - Drivetrain Malfunction Fixed
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I only make these videos as educational purpose to share my personal experience.
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All DIY repairs or modifications you perform are made at your own risk. Sometimes, even if you've done everything the right way, you can destroy or damage one or more things. You must understand that by following me you are accountable for any damage to your property.
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[@mitchellhartley9398]

Great video! Thanks for posting!

[@HowToDoitright]

Our pleasure!

[@dinhvanpham8102]

Hi after a lot of diagnostics and study of the original drawing of my BMW exhause management . I have found out that my turbocharger has a low turbo charger pressure and a high turbo charger pressure, each of them depends a working booster pressure solenoid and a turbocharger ventile. If you have no charger boost on the low rpm 900-2000rpm on your low turbocharger you must test and check and replace both. You must do the same procedure on the other high turbo charger and replace both too. I have replaced my 2 booster, 2 charger pressure and a glogged map sensor. Now my new turbocharger is working like a new car with a lot of power.

[@cruzfernandez4554]

Thank you for sharing your informative video. I own a 2012 BMW X5 with an N55 engine, and I’ve been experiencing some issues lately. Recently, I observed that the boost solenoid was energized even at idle. Could you please advise if this is normal behavior?

[@chrisknight3681]

Ordered one for mine along with plugs and coils. Fingers crossed it’s the boost solenoid

[@HowToDoitright]

It could be other things too. I have a lot of videos on my channels on explaining what else it could be. Check F10 playlist

[@chrisknight3681]

Got it. Yea when into the throttle I feel it get jerky. Like a misfire but differently. Also I’ve done plugs and coils within the last year. No belt slip. No ofhg leak. Unless it’s one of the fuel pumps or the turbo itself then I’ve got nothing else to try. Ordered the boost solenoid and will get into Friday.

[@chrisknight3681]

Not good. Have an extended warranty so I’m taking it in for repairs. Couldn’t see it so not sure what to even take apart to get to it. Just gonna have to see how it goes. Mine I guess being original a California car is different. Who knew.

[@HowToDoitright]

All boost solenoid are connected to your valve covers so it’s just a matter of finding it. Look for rubber tubes connected to valve cover and it will lead you to it. You will have to remove air intake hoses.

[@chrisknight3681]

Lol. Did that. Found the two ports near where the 02 sensors come out and mine isn’t there. Dealer says it’s mounted to the turbo somewhere. Just not easily visible. Figured same as you. Gotta be a hose etc somewhere. Again not on mine.

[@dinhvanpham8102]

Hi thank you for sharing your knowledge. The video is very good and you explain properly which hose go where. Do you know the right size of the vacuum hoses. I am using a high quality vacuum hose 3,5mm diameter from Topran. The 3,5mm hoses fitt very tight, keeping away from leakage. Lately i have got quite a lot drive train errors on my BMW 525D xdrive 2012. For BMW i am using OBDII scanner Autophix ES910 to search for errors and it works find.

[@HowToDoitright]

I don’t know the size. I sold my car

[@catalin.c]

I have a problem with the lower clamp from the turbo inlet-intake airduct. I have to tighthen it a lot just to have no leak…any minor leak from that clamp gives me a vacuum leak and my engine acts weird (low rpm torque is missing, hesitating, gear changes are sluggish…etc). Why is it so sensitive at that point? My car is 535i pwg. Could be something else? Like turbo being extra sensitive? Or the wastegate?

[@HowToDoitright]

Honestly not sure. I got so fed up of my car that I sold it and went all electric.

[@dinhvanpham8102]

There must be no leakage in the turbocharger veins. There is a special tool to check if you have a leakage. Firstly you must go to a workshop to check the health of your car for leakage. Check the Booster Pressure solenoid, check he datastream for Chagin alive on a car diagnostic tool. Most cars uses 3,5mm diameter vacuum hoses. Alle hoses must stuck tight to connections. I had a big leakage on a hose to pressure converrter and my car act like your car. Low boost, go drive train messages. Gear changes is sluggish. After replacing new hoses on pressur converter and booste pressure solenoid my car acts more normal. I you loose power after 15-20 minutes you might have other electric problem. Bring your car for service check on a workshop!

[@dinhvanpham8102]

Hi, what kind of errors or symptoms did you get? Low boost and drive train errors if the rpm is passing 2000 to 3000 rpm? These errors are what i have got. My car BMW 525D work fine until thursday. My scanner report error 29A400, 299100 and 244c00. Even when i erase th error it is coming back ater a new scan on my scanner. Now I get drive train in between 2000-3000 rpm. Can it be my booster pressure solenoid is broken?

[@HowToDoitright]

I don’t remember now. Sold the car. Got so fed up with it.

[@RMxSonny]

Hello i have bmw 535i f10 and i getting drivetrain error. Garage replace turbo pressure converter. Can this be cause of drivetrain malfunction or does this part have nothing to do with drivetrain. I just want to be sure that i dont get ripped off. Advice pls

[@HowToDoitright]

These cars are super complicated. If they changing something make sure they give you some kind of assuring that it will work. These things can be caused by many different issues. So hard to predict. They can do some testing to find out if issue is with turbos

[@HowToDoitright]

I got so fed up that I sold my car. My drivetrain kept coming back ..I enough seriously. Now I’m a super happy Tesla owner. Best car ever owned. No maintenance at all

[@jvz_5.0]

I got dt malfunction going on highway today and I got codes 120208 120408 pressure too high. I’m stage 2 MHD bmw 535i 2011. No CEL, after turning it off the DTMLFNCTN is gone but I’m sure it’ll come up again if I go on highway. U think it’s the same issues ? Boost solenoid ?

[@HowToDoitright]

Could be. That’s the cheapest thing to try first honestly. There are many other reasons it could be. I have several videos on my F10 play list. Check them out. It will help you determine which might be related to yours.

[@joel10032]

Hi, did you fix your issue I’m having the same problem

[@jvz_5.0]

@@joel10032 yes I replaced the boost solenoid and one of the lines connected to it because it was ripped. After that never came back

[@beckmarchiniak716]

@@jvz_5.0 when you had the overboost code, did it feel like the car was faster?

[@Kevin-gm4ky]

The dealer says I’m losing about 20” of hg vacuum. They want to change my valve cover cause they says it’s not the OEM. Im not certain that’s going to fix it and I’m leaning towards the boost solenoid or turbo diverter. I am getting codes 101F01 & 120308. Any thoughts?

[@catalin.c]

Does it matter in wich one of the valve cover nipple you connect it? Ive seen one is blinded, but do they both work the same?

[@HowToDoitright]

Honestly I’m not sure but one is sealed with a rubber nipple ( I believe the small one) the other connected

[@bsenright]

I had codes a few weeks ago about comparison pressure too high so replaced the boost solenoid, and the small fragile hose going from the air pipe to the valve cover which was damaged. Fixed the code, but now I am getting the drivetrain malfunction warning when accelerating on highway. Car runs fine but doesn't have the boost any more. Is it possible the boost solenoid i put on was bad?

[@HowToDoitright]

Well did you clear the codes using ISTAD? If no you need to do that. You can’t just use a regular code reader. Your car is probably in limp mode so needs to be out of it by erasing the code with IstaD

[@iTzKev__]

Hello, My BMW enters limp mode when accelerating hard and occasionally stalls at red lights. I’ve observed an oil filter housing leak. Codes: 118401, 119404, 11A002, 11AC02. Replaced spark plugs, coils, HPFP (cheaper part from ebay considering getting a better brand), LPFP, and the high-pressure sensor. Seeking advice.

[@HowToDoitright]

I suggest watch my videos on f10 playlist. Lots of video to teach you about the car. Plus shows fixes

[@kevo144plummer]

Did you ever figure this out? it sounds like my exact same problem

[@iTzKev__]

Yeah hpfp got it from fcp euro

[@198888joshua]

Hi does this booster gets damage every year once, I replaced mine two times already, is this normal

[@HowToDoitright]

It shouldn’t. You probably using aftermarket. Use OEM

[@198888joshua]

No I used oem always, it’s different problem , now it’s only noise, before was drivetrain malfunction, now it’s only noise

[@198888joshua]

Have you replaced it again in your car, before I replace mine because error drivetrain malfunction, every time press the gas hard, Second time one year later because humming noise or wining noise, and now again humming noise.

[@Morphblinks1]

What codes were you getting in relation to the drivetrain malfunction when accelerating hard as described in the video?

[@HowToDoitright]

Check my playlist f10. I think I made a video on the code I was getting using ISTA

[@Matice21]

@@HowToDoitrightyou didn’t 😑

[@MajorSpeirs]

Were you getting codes 120208 and 120408? I got this malfunction only once when I was speeding to 180 - 200 kmh (I guess it is 120mph).

[@HowToDoitright]

Got codes in ISTA+

[@chrisknight3681]

Crazy. Got the part but can not locate it on my car.

[@HowToDoitright]

There is a video on my channel showing how to replace

[@chrisknight3681]

Followed it. Late model mine being 11/15 is not in the same location. It’s mounted somewhere closer to the turbo. Haven’t identified it yet but working on it.