BMW N57 & N47 Common Problems - At The Wheel

[@GigiBeleaDK]

Sorry to correct you on a few things... 1. Chain - This can also rattle only when warm and not only at cold starts. To change chains you do NOT need to pull the engine out, can be done while engine is still in the car. 2. DPF - This is not so expensive anymore and compared to other jobs it is actually not such a pain to replace. Can get clogged but as a prevention , the ECU will give you a warning for DPF on ALL newer BMW's when you approach the 250.000km. It can be reset and you can still drive quite much more. 3. INJECTORS - They do tend to fail indeed but the washers on the bottom not so much. If you take out the injectors at one point and if you DO NOT CLEAN the injector seat then yes, it will be more likely to fail sooner or later. So not the washer itself is the culprit but the dirt between washer and cylinder head that will not allow a perfect seal. 4. CRANKSHAFT PULLEY - You do not need any special puller and no need to put the car in service position (TDC) to change it. Removing radiator fan takes 10minutes and then you have plenty of space. Just loosen the belt , lock the tensioner , take out for screws and it is out. Whole operation would take 30-60 min. ... So before you do such videos where you also specify what and how , please do some homework or at leas try to have your hands on some of the work involved then advice people.

[@AtTheWheel]

Thanks for the info! I've worked on a few of these including the last gen version, and from personal experience I wouldn't even try to replace the chain with the engine in the car. Is it possible? Sure, but would you actually want to? I certainly wouldn't and most mechanics wouldn't either. As for the DPF, again my personal experience says you can't expect BMW's ECU to give fault codes out correctly, and when I said replacing it can be a pain I mean in the UK where by the time its on the way out every single exhaust bolt will be rusted to hell so your only choice is to angle grind the entire exhaust out and replace it. That's my first hand experience. And for the crankshaft pulley, my mistake there. I must have mistook the style of pulley for one you'd need to pull off even after the bolts are out.

[@GigiBeleaDK]

@@AtTheWheel Last 3 chains replaced with the engine in the car , no problem, why wouldn't you when there is enough place to move around. DPF - Exhaust bolts you usually cut and replace with new , no need to waste time with trying to unbolt them. ECU is not stupid and won't give you errors just because it likes to throw errors, there is a problem somewhere...

[@pistonhead31]

Wery well said!👌

[@teddyforan]

Yep well said

[@siliconeheaters1492]

Gigi, esti de aur! Apreciez ce spui si invat de la tine! Sa fii sanatos si fericit!

[@geppiemockingbird1489]

Don't forgot the PCV membrane, behind the oil fill cap. It degrades over time, due to operation at elevated temperatures, this rubber membrane becomes floppy and may even start to leak. The result is that soot and oil enters the turbo and the rest of the intake system. Replacement is easy, inexpensive, prevents a lot of problems, but is often overlooked.

[@mcplutt]

Is it a regular service item?

[@guesswho6906]

can i video call you to show me where is it ? :)

[@docdoon9189]

I have a e90 325d lci...it's at 156,000 miles now and not a single issue...when started at cold it has absolutely no noises at all...class engine

[@barryblack7384]

2012 F10 3.0 with 180k miles only done regular oil changes circa 7-8k miles and always ran on premium fuel. Never had a single "common" problem.

[@knackwurster7793]

2010 E90 with N57D30TÜ with engine software done. Driven it for 70k km - no "common" problem. If you tell people to have a longer drives for the DPF to regenerate and you have to drive 60miles/h to clean it then your definetly using your diesel wrong. A 3.0 Diesel is not a car for the city, its a car made for long distances. I know a lot of people with those engines and never heard a single problem. This vid makes me angry

[@IzziedeD]

@@knackwurster7793i don't think all issues plague all engines, however soot buildup in the intake track from egr is a very real problem for most N57. worse, the soot starts to accumulate in the intake ports and creates choke points in the intake manifold where theres only 2-3cm (~1“) diameter opening for all the air to flow throw. this can be taken care of by walnut blasting the ports and soaking or pressure cleaning the intake and egr. i soaked my intake and egr in undiluted simple green for a couple days while doing maintenance and cooling system work. Also on all modern diesels, for DPF, the regens burn off soot, but the soot turns to ash, and the ash accumulates indefinitely until the dpf is full of ash. only DPF cleaning or replacement can fix that.

[@biggur5]

My f10 n57 timing chain went about 90k mark. I has the car for just over a year. I purchased it used and had my own warranty which they said the timing chain wasnt covered! Anyway almost £2k later it was sorted! What a nightmare it was. Then my Auto gearbox started playing up and had to have the sump and oil changed. Now I'm gonna keep the car until it completely dies!!! Need my moneys worth! (My previous E60 530d with m57 engine had no issues and she was still going strong after almost 250k mainly motorway mileage!)

[@bathanmark]

Hello there, how is your car doing so far? Timing chain and auto trans? Any other problem started creeping up since the ownership? Thanks

[@biggur5]

@@bathanmark actually at the moment it's in the garage because high pressure fuel pump stopped working and because of that I've been told the injectors will also need replacing because metal filings would have entered them. ALSO they said timing chain tensioners are damaged too... they said it's not worth fixing because it will cost too much! The car is no good to me like this AND I've had work done on it! I said fix the timing chain issue and then I will keep it a bit longer and then sell it. It was then that done the timing chain before. Worst car I've ever had! I had 530d E60 before this and ZERO problems and it was running like a dream when I sold it at 250k miles! Background to this issue was everything was running nice and smoothly and then it suddenly just broke down and wouldnt start! Been in garage for 4 weeks now! I'm seriously pissed off

[@bathanmark]

@@biggur5 sorry to hear that. Yes your 530D E60 sounds like a gem compare to this one. I thought once you got the timing chain done nothing much would fail as you do you regular oil change. that sucks. What was the mileage when this give up to you, right when it decided to stay in the garage?

[@patrik5195]

@@biggur5 I think that your car didn't have the original miles, or it was used rough. The timing chain should easily live up to 125k miles. Around 125k miles you have to change also the crankshaft bearings. High pressure pump is one of the main problems in N57.. But gotta admit that the E60 530d (M57) is an absolute beast engine, you cant kill that engine.

[@wass006]

The M57 is built different, very robust engine. Probably the best diesel engine made

[@mcplutt]

I just bought a 2013 X5 LCI with the N57 (211 hp detuned version). It has only 54k miles (87k km) so I hope to prevent most long mileage problems by changing engine and transmission oil at shorter intervals. I guess you can't just block off the EGR without causing something like check engine light/error code?

[@zeekgill]

Helpful video. Thanks. Was initially unsure if you're the same guy from TechTeamGB. Useful PC info on that channel as well.

[@reeced5521]

So effectively everything related to emissions in prone to fail and without all that crap it would be bulletproof

[@michalhrymniak7065]

Nice video mate, one terrible thing you left out is crank shaft , thay do have a flaw, micro cracks causing it to bend , not be alligned end over time destroy big end , and Conrod bearings. Have seen one done over size .50 and lasted 1k miles and span bearing again due to being bend. Only option even if mashine shop tells you it can be done on bearing side , still get OEM new crank and that's well heavy on the wallet.

[@chrisnewbold9876]

Swirl flaps: its not the long rod that snaps, but the arm between it and the actuator - I’ve got one to prove it, when the flaps seized due to all that carbon. Do a swirl flap and EGR delete, sorted.

[@eLus1ve2991]

U cant do swirls and egr delete without removing dpf/scr?

[@chrisnewbold9876]

@@eLus1ve2991 you can. Mine still has the dpf. Annual emissions passed no problem

[@eLus1ve2991]

@@chrisnewbold9876 wow this whole time i thought everything had to be done at once, Do you have n47 or 57? Also did u have to tune with the deletes?

[@chrisnewbold9876]

@@eLus1ve2991 I have N57 engine. I did the swirl flap delete myself - no retune is necessary for that as the flaps only create turbulence in the fuel/air mixture. Subsequently, I had the engine remapped to 300bhp, about the same as the 535 twin turbo non mapped engine. The tuner recommended the EGR delete, though its not essential to the remap. So the EGR is physically there, just not operating. Likewise, the swirl flap actuator remains in place, to fool the DME into thinking its still working. Do clean the inlet manifold - mine was nearly half blocked with black oily gunge…

[@eLus1ve2991]

@@chrisnewbold9876 damn im in CA Its hard to find a tuner here Any recomendations

[@kriszml]

Good video but a few things to add. The first is not only a timing will fail on these engines but the crankshaft bearings also about the same time. I have done a few and all of them was gone. But since you pull the engine to do the timing is not a big deal. The other issue is the high pressure fuel pump. This problem effects not only BMW but audi etc where these 1 cylinder bosch high pressure pumps are used. The pump has an excentric shaft to operate the piston and the piston connects with a roller to the excentric shaft. This roller can turn to the side and then the game is over. The whole fuel system is full of metal shavings including injectors, fuel tank and all the pipes. To change the fuel pamp is not a big deal but to clean the whole system is a nightmare.

[@guesswho6906]

how to prevent car from crankshaft problems? i had one 640d with 320.000 kilometers and it fucked up at crankshaft, i bought well mainteined 640d again with 170.000 kilometers with new air intake put on, what should i do ?

[@kriszml]

@@guesswho6906 around 200 k you have to change the timing along with the bearings. Also have to avoid the long oil change periods what bmw recommends. On my own bmw i change the oil 10-15 000 km

[@joud360]

Had a blocked dpf so bought a cable to force dpf regen. Drove it on the freeway and it regened. Power came back. Cable seller told me they also do remaps. Temptation got to me and sent it in the next day. When I came back the next day to pick it up engine was knocking. Has 180k km. Being the first f10 engines of the 535d (299ps) can't find a replacement here in Oz. No rebuilders want to touch it.

[@mickeypopa]

​@@joud360 You got too greedy my friend. Want 500hp? Buy an M5. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@atro7436]

I also had main bearing issue on N57 535d 2010

[@alfa1t5]

how the problem manifested itself?

[@sebastianmiticky2491]

@@alfa1t5 expensive 5k

[@joud360]

I own an early 2011 and did the same. In which country did you get it fixed. I'm in Australia and it's hard to find an engine replacement or someone to fix it.

[@vladyboi8911]

Helpful video. I just got an n57 535d xdrive from Copart that I’m working on in the garage now. Snagged it for $15k less than what they go for here, and it’s a clean title with 2 owners. Car is at 170k miles tho which is pretty low considering what I’ve seen within 500 miles of me. Besides the timing chain (which I’m gonna do once I install the new radiator and cooling lines so I can drive it to the hoist) what are some other things I should take into consideration? Engine runs healthy based off listening to it and trans is fine as well. I have not done a compression test yet as it’s already in the garage and battery disconnected to conduct proper repairs. I plan on adding some power if it’s worth it. M5 conversion is happening once car is driving perfectly. So far I’ve heard very good things abt the engine and it usually lasting up to 400k miles. Anything would help 👍

[@DenisTheRealMenace]

HPFP, LPFP, Injectors, turbo, that's all really... PCV membrane is a good one cheap as fuck and will bring you peace, and check swirl flaps as well as rocker cover gaskets :)

[@waynekingston7772]

At those miles do a trans service now and every 50k km. Definitely do a transfer case service and recalibration on it and repeat each 50k km. Change out diff oils. Install an oil catch can, check if the intake ports need a walnut blast and if the intake needs a clean, get the EGR coded off or remove and code if preferred, to stop it continually clogging up with shit over time. I prefer to leave DPF fitted due to the smell. Replace the coolant pump and check and replace harmonic balancer if it needs it. Install a HPFP bypass disaster prevention kit so if it fails it doesn’t take out the rail and injectors as well. Glow plug module commonly fails, if you’ve got codes for it or the glow plugs then change the module out or it’ll be shite to start when cold. Oil change every 10k km. Make sure the rain tray accross the back of the engine bay is not falling apart and that it’s sealed properly, if it leaks it’ll go onto the engine and you’ll be up for new #5 #6 injectors. Get Chinese ones if you need to replace them and just seal them up with sealant once installed. Akebono ceramic dust free pads are the go to keep wheels clean and last forever, pedal is firmer but get used to it. Make sure to clean and lube the contact points or you’ll tear your hair out with warped discs. Probably more but that’s a good list to make it really reliable, I’ve had my X5 since 30k km and has 190k km on it now. Not without its problems in that time, but it’s been beautiful to drive! Enjoy 😊

[@AlmostLastJedi]

I went to a BMW specialist and they said that ZF have revised their recommendation to 100k miles, unless there are signs that it failing.

[@kr0pp]

My N57 ran 260k until timing chain started making noises and needed to be replaced :)

[@Ronk3li]

Did it cost much?

[@mickadatwist1620]

@@Ronk3li oh no, only $34

[@MegaCivicsir]

I'm at 142000 miles on my 530d f10 no issues, the chains are notorious on the 520 models, regular servicing is key people moaning about chains are people who haven't done servicing regularly, also your statement of the chains just snapping is rubbish, you'll always get a chain noise when cold and idle,

[@MegaCivicsir]

Also the timing chain is a serviceable item

[@ah-hl6fr]

What year is your 530d 👍 looking into buying one

[@kertolen1348]

How about an 2014 3.0d ? Still has timingchain problems?

[@demri123]

Nope

[@sergiuilie6580]

I have a noisy rattle when cold starting the engine,but after 10-15 min as the oil temp rise,it dissapears. What can be?

[@WholesaleTurbos]

he literally says what the problem is in the video

[@alial-ani6562]

Hello did you fix your problem because i have the same problem.

[@calibrax]

Pretty sure that's normal for a diesel...

[@ebk_fixxdy6485]

Oil change once a year 🤦🏽‍♂️ I do mine 3 months

[@krassidimitrov2]

I have F11 with 2.5xd N47. Chain is done, ZF done, dpf cleaned with a machinery.. let see...220k-km

[@SamsungA13-co5ty]

Do you know anyone with an N47TD engine for sale? Mine got blown.

[@Aurora22586]

oil cooler/filter leaks, xdrive (front diff failures) propshafts failing, pcv valve leaking

[@marstedt]

Damper ... not dampener ;) Good info and thanks for the video!

[@2FTermination]

Thanks for sharing!

[@micr75i]

great video thanks a lot! I have a 2014 520D, 154.000 Km so approaching your 100000 miles point. I have always brought in the car for service at the BMW dealer spending a lot of cash through the years in the process. My local mechanic told me I should consider getting rid of the car as that’s when they start to fail and all issues are expensive to fix! Any thoughts on the 530e?

[@dlobrown024]

Have you change it yet? I'm also considering "19(updated battery) 530e for replacement of my 2014 535d

[@micr75i]

@@dlobrown024 I still have it! shortly after I posted the comment a year ago the turbo failed :)) I had it fixed up for 2.5K, when they did that they also re-mapped the ECU and now it goes like the proverbial shit of the shovel, much much better than before. At this point before replacing it I want to see what the new G60 will look like.

[@dlobrown024]

@@micr75i hybrid turbo?

[@micr75i]

@@dlobrown024 still not sure about going plug-in hybrid, I am concerned that the car will have a massive weight and drive like shit :)

[@ademineshat]

Which oil is the best for this engine: mine is 40d N57?

[@slotselectagamblingchannel7452]

I use castrol Edge 5w30. Runs lovely with that.

[@kipkipper-lg9vl]

use whatever the recommended is by bmw

[@richlee509]

Mobil

[@tontoscout9974]

Thanks. Good Video.

[@ianwilkinson7612]

I'm on my 3rd N57 engine - 2007 330d (E91) SE touring, 2012 330d (F31) Msport touring and now an M340d touring, Apart from injector issues (I replaced all 6) in my E91 due to mis-fuelling the car, the only problem I have had is with the EGR valve and EGR valve cooler -the later issues were free issue recalls by BMW. I did 165,000miles, 158,000 miles and currently on 51,000 miles respectively and have always changed the oil at the recommended BMW intervals with absolutely no issues. Do you honestly think that BMW would compromise their reputation by extending oil changes beyond their useful life? What benefit would it be to them? Also, as BMW recommend, I've NEVER changed the ATF either. One important thing, however, is not to keep the car in D or MS when stationary and idling - it would be like riding your clutch continuously in a manual - it simply heats up and degrades the ATF. If stop/start is not used (or the battery charge is too low for it to operate) the gear stick should be pulled over in to the N position which means the ATF is not 'sheared' by the D or MS modes. Hope this clarifies why BMW engineers recommend the intervals they do.

[@SergSerg-yz9fx]

Good video like 👍

[@jermaine_rsh]

My f11 530d xDrive has 260,000km on it and has never had any problems

[@Beardchanics]

Great video!

[@GigiBeleaDK]

And you have a garage ?

[@M3goon]

People moaning about these cars/engines are the mainly the ones who own the pre lci’s - a lot of improvements were made in the facelift version. The M47 engine timing chain issues are few and far between

[@Dsignerz]

He's talking about the n57 not the m engines

[@Bondak404]

Just to add the engine cover gasket and oil sump gasket

[@mitchellyang1806]

N57n gasket cover oil leakage too

[@karttu1]

Extremely difficult to change. Fuel nozzles do not want to come out.

[@hewadwardak7967]

Correct me if I’m wrong but I have heard that the timing chain issue along with a couple other issues was corrected in the n47tu, which what the f10’s are equipped with..

[@AtTheWheel]

From what I've read, BMW did make some changes to the later N47's, but it isn't 'fixed' as it's still remarkably thin.

[@kostasmou]

@@AtTheWheel Do you happen to know to which models were these changes - improvements made? I own an 525D 11/2014 MSport...

[@MrBowBow]

to the point I like it but got away from the factthe n47/b47 is a great engine! if looked after, kill the egr and change the oil every 5 to 7k miles it'll go on to see silly miles my B47 is on 160K atm

[@baldy65289]

I’ve got a 640d 2013 do I worry

[@mickadatwist1620]

yes, you always worry

[@rival1016]

What about big end/main bearing failure,,mine went at 80k,,and lots of the same stories from other owners,,n57 is one of the softest engines I've ever had the displeasure to own..junk!

[@karttu1]

😳

[@teodorkalcic5851]

Mine went at 190,000 km, engine rebuilt, new crankshaft oem, after 5000 km same thing happened

[@ioannisstavrou2677]

Don’t listen to this video. I have n57n f15 300k km on it and never change timing chains!!! 1. Change oil and filter around 7-10k km and use premium oil with zinc. It’s not cheap! 2. Change Air filter 2 times per year. 3. This step is very important. Change 2 times per year fuel filter and NEVER use additives if the filter is not new! 4. Gearbox & turbo solenoids & adaptions. one time change at 100k km. 6. Clean inlet manifold at 100k. 5. If is X drive buy the long spline axle and calibrate transfer box. **Doing what I say timing belt can last 300k km easily without rattling. And don’t remove EGR because you need dpf cleaning more quick and your exhaust will be black. I am clear enough! So don’t trust diagnostics & thieves on the 5 things I mentioned. It’s a rule

[@eoinmcgowan]

So they basically make the car to fail at 100000

[@col145]

Jeeezzzzz, puts you right off diesel BMW’s 😔 maybe you need to buy 2, one to drive while one is being repaired 😤

[@trymstrenhauge1512]

Cp4 fuelpump

[@megnis1601]

Basically i don't want a bmw anymore

[@braiden9999]

Bored

[@braiden9999]

Crap