BMW R1100RT Throttle Body Sync

[@wildbad]

yes..the manometer is good and easy to make. There is actually quite a lot of important information about the procedure missing from this video including the air-flow screw adjustment and its place in the procedure as well as the differentiation between the left and right sides of the bike and which should be done first. Additionally a general warning for air / oil heads is that you should not let the bike overheat which is easy to do when you are standing still. a fan placed to provide airflow over the cylinders is helpful as is becoming familiar with ALL of the adjustments in the procedure.

[@hmroa3056]

Clear as mud. A close up view of what you are verbally describing about the adjustments needed would be very helpful.

[@davidesker7561]

Thanks. This worked great on an R1150RT too. It saved me a trip to the dealer after replacing the throttle cable.

[@natkimgold]

I know this was 5 years ago but thanks for the info, very valuable.

[@affnanramli]

Great job, 10 years back on my old R1100RS I made a manometer of about 12 inches high. It worrk great, I called it a "Balance line manometer" it has a pinchable tube linking the 2 column at top linking. To take a differential reading,I slowly pinch the line gradually isolating the columns. This way I can see the difference as I start to pinch. Once both throttle body balance, I could pinch the tube fully it able to show if there is any difference. At high rpm only light pintch is all that is needed to show reading. The manometer uses normal engine oil and small enough to be taped to the fuel tank for testing during shot ride. It cost me a dollar to make.

[@WolfPackMoto]

Awesome video, thank you! I am going to make my own syncing gauge as well, what size diameter tubing and how long did you get it? thanks again

[@graantmnz]

i made one, used atf in it , but when i started the bike, the oil seemed to get sucked into the carb bodies and disappeared ! ...so not sure what the trick is to keep it there

[@milesinnz]

Nice to see common sense mechanics .... excellent...

[@DannyCsaszar]

Thanks a bunch, wow you made this look simple and now my bike run really smooth with a huge decrease in vibration especially at freeway speeds.

[@TheMotofrog]

AWESOME! So glad to hear it.. now get out there and put some miles on.

[@geoffhalsey2184]

I like it. Simple, cheap and effective.

[@luuk341]

Thank you! I will go and make my own gauge tomorrow!

[@JohnDoe-bf1fw]

The home made manometer not only cost less, but I would assume its more accurate than the store bought gizmos.

[@PorkHunt100]

I'm trying to synch my GS, I can balance at idle, but only with RHS BBS closed. At revs, manometer fluctuates, up and down, if I hold the throttle steady with a clamp I only have the slighest play on the cable barrel. I'm so sick of it, can't get anyone to even diagnose it...

[@lifewiththerockykrag9536]

WOW!!! Thank you so much. You saved me money I don't have.

[@jamieirwin6333]

Great post, where did you get your motorcycle jack?

[@ride5523]

did it fix the vibration. your videos are great

[@Lenzer50]

What size tubing you using and is it all one piece?

[@AndrisĶekava]

You first synced at high rpms and then the idle, whereas in different forums I have read that one must first do the idle and then go on to 3 k rpm adjustment

[@davidhaney1394]

yup he did it backwards ....clymers has it wrong for some unknown reason so a LOT of people do it that way but you SHOULD do the idle first THEN the load....it becomes clear why when you do it the right way .

[@napper1496]

@@davidhaney1394 nooooo. Do higher rpm THEN idle

[@AndrisĶekava]

And somehow when I get my idle synced, the high rpm value will always be out of balance, and vice versa; even when I do set my idle right, after I do some twists to raise the rpm, when the rpm fall again to idle it will almost always be out of sync again. I wonder how you managed to achieve that the fluid has no differences in idle and high rpm

[@TheMotofrog]

+Andreits Andreiko Have you cleaned your fuel injectors?

[@DA-mr5tj]

Very cool! I am a newbie with the same bike, so these are very helpful. Thanks!

[@rusotz2014]

I can't even get 2 seconds to adjust before it's pulling the fluid up and over the bend toward the engine. If it's pulling that much more than the other side, how can you get it to a point that you can make minor adjustments?

[@TheMotofrog]

That can be frustrating... I would first make sure that your fuel injectors are clean (kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5LPh6uVeq-lpJY). I have had bikes behave a 100% different once the injectors were cleaned. From there set your throttle cables evenly back to factory specs at 2mm freeplay in the cables at the throttle bodies, and try it again. You should be pretty close at that point.

[@rusotz2014]

Thanks MotoFrog, I'll look into that. Cheers

[@TheMotofrog]

Also did you check if your idle screws are at about the same position? Make a tick mark with tape or marker and screw them in until they just stop, counting how many revolutions (write it down)... are they about the same or way off? After you clean the injectors you should have them start and the same amount turned out.

[@SowersProductionz]

Im still confused on how to set the sync at 3k rpm

[@hmoodl755]

thanks ....excellent...great video ... helpful

[@damiantuttle402]

Nice video mate and not long and drawn out like some. but...i couldn't hear any of what you where saying in the last part when you were summing up the process. that's the bit i was most intent on hearing as well.

[@JeffDyck]

Great video. What size tubing did you use?

[@beemerfrog]

Thanks Jeff. I used 3/8 tubing for all but the last 6-8" or so. At that point I shoved 1/4" into the 3/8. The reason being I can trim the 1/4 as much as i want to get a crisp end, and when it's worn down I simply put a new 8" piece on and start the process again... without cutting down the 3/8 so much I have to rebuild it.

[@userthor7386]

I recon both ends of the hose, must be of the same length... please correct me if I'm wrong.

[@TheMotofrog]

+Jack O Yes Jack, they must be the same length of hose so as to measure the pressure over the same distance.

[@Redmenace96]

Nice video! Good start for a beginner like me. At 4:10 you just kinda gloss over the details. Would be nice to see those minor adjustments, and not just hear about them. Thanks for the help!

[@kevin30783]

Do you have to sync the carburettors first, or do you have to adjust the idle mixture screw on each carb before the sync ?

[@TheMotofrog]

yes, sync them first

[@napper1496]

Close both screws fully then back 1.5 turns as starting point. This is how bmw do it. Do at 200 rpm then balance THEN do idle with screws

[@thyZippy]

Great video, thanks. My only comment would be: because it's air cooled, I have fans running cool air over the cylinders while doing all that.

[@jasonbrooks774]

is the engine supposed to be warmed up when doing this?

[@RideWithRen]

Yes

[@flyingmerkel6]

Thanks, just picked up a R850r that's been neglected.

[@beemerfrog]

Those are great bikes... enjoy!

[@delhoose]

Awesome thanks, I was going to buy the Twinmax carb balancer for my BMW 1150RT but after looking at videos, this is the (MaxTwin carb balancer). Going to the hardware store now. Albert The Crawfish Man

[@andrewafrican]

Thank you!

[@bobbyb82]

Top tip thanks........

[@petrpufalev5006]

I no andestend.

[@francoismercier8008]

Petr Pufalev it looks like a 3/8" OD