BMW R60/5 Carburetor | 26mm Bing Slide Carburetor

[@allanmorgan7022]

I think the piece that is inserted first (with four holes) has a tiny fibre or plastic disc ("Reed") that operates as a non-return valve for the fuel (part number 38 on the Bing 53 carby drawing). You can test the non-return function by sucking on that first piece. You can also test it the same way with a fully assembled accelerator pump. I found I was missing one. Bing sells them for about $2 each. a

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Hi Allan, you're 100% correct and I will mention this in an upcoming assembly video! Thank you very much

[@MyWillypilly]

Do you have a picture? It looks like mine is present ... mesh? I assume you are not finished. I'm in the midst of this.

[@allanmorgan7022]

@@MyWillypilly I found a good youtube source for that carby; It is in two parts and includes the Reed. Use the Subtitles/Translation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJWuYaVvnshojK8 kzbin.info/www/bejne/npSYhKNneJV6qpY Allan

[@MyWillypilly]

@@allanmorgan7022 thank you. Bing in Kansas has been helpful

[@MyWillypilly]

I don't know how you are progressing with this. I can attest if you use "new" carb spacers , the fibre is indeed a super tight fit. You may have to clean up the flange on the head and sand the fibre insert. The carb is difficult to fit up! Beware❤

[@stevenmartin9340]

Thank you for this detailed video. I’m working on a 1975 R 60/6 that I’ve had since 1993. I kept it in the garage since 2000 with the hope of working on it when I got more time. I never could have rebuilt the carbs without this video. Keep up the great work!

[@WorkshopRebuild]

I'm happy to hear you found this video to learn more about your carburetors! You have a very nice BMW and with a little bit of maintenance and cleanup, it should run without any issues. These bikes are becoming more popular by the day and it would be nice to know you brought yours back onto the road. Enjoy the process Steven. I will continue to work on this BMW, as I've finished up some other projects. Thanks for tuning in! Regards Andreas

[@cspark9186]

Excellent video. When you have the time it would be great if you made a video on adjusting this carburetor. Thanks from Richmond Virginia.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you very much, I appreciate your kind comment! I will continue to work on this motorcycle and when the time comes to get this started, I will share a video about adjusting this carburetor. Thanks for sharing an upcoming video topic with me. Best regards -Andreas

[@joshuawilliams6895]

I believe the white corrosion is from "phase separation" which happens to modern gasoline which has ethanol in it. It affects the aluminum and the white stuff is aluminum dioxide. This is why it's important to use ethanol free gasoline in our carburated engines. BTW awesome videos!!!

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Yeah, corn fuel buildup is frustrating. Unfortunately, that's what they sell us, so we end up being the ones labeled as polluters.

[@denniscunningham2041]

Right you are! I had an R75 50 years ago and forgot that the 50 and 60 were slide carburetors like the/2 models. Good video, it will help me next time I do a rebuild on my R69S.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

You already got me thinking I had the wrong carburetors for my bike!😁 Yes the R75 was the most produced /5 model and therefore it‘s easy to think all models had CV carbs. I‘m glad you‘re looking after an R69S! Nowadays they are very hot collector bikes👍🏽👍🏽 I haven‘t seen one in person yet, but they look so good in pictures. Regards Andreas

[@DispatchMoto]

Wow, that ultrasonic cleaner really made short work out of that nasty carb. Can't wait to see this bike all finished.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

It sure did! I love it especially for small parts that have a number of passageways, just like a carburetor. It will take some more time and I do not want to rush, because the drivetrain will need attention...but it will be well worth it in the end! Best regards

[@John-in-Boothbay]

Good progress on the R60! I always buy the rebuild kits for any carb I restore. For the 26mm Bing, the kit costs about $30 USD for two carbs. While gaskets and o-rings may be reused, I like knowing everything in a new carb that is a wear part is replaced. With Amal carbs, I'll usually replace the jets as well since they are known to be problem areas.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thanks a lot John, it's coming along just fine! I agree, carburetor kits are the way to go and they are fairly cheap. I've seen them online and this will be the best solution for my rebuild. I will keep the Jet-Issue in mind and it does seem like this is a common problem around older fuel management systems. Running 87-91Octane in Canada isn't the best...especially with all the sub-gases they mix in. Either way, I think it's important to maintain a carburetor for best performance and that's more or less why I shared this video of the disassembly. Thank you for you advice and Best regards -Andreas

[@cspark9186]

QUESTION minute 17:15. I noticed on the throttle slide needle your needle retainer connects into the 2nd groove from the top. My R60/5 needle retainers connect to the 3rd groove from the top. My carburetors are numbered 111 & 112. My Clymer manual does not discuss this, however, does show a photo of the needle retainer connecting into the second groove of the throttle slide needle. I wonder if I should match what you and the Clymer manual show. I'm just now getting ready to rebuild them. I might as well try to get everything right. Thanks for all you help. Again.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Great question and observation! Yes the needles are installed on the second groove from the top and that should be the „standard setting“! If you raise the clip by a groove you‘re essentially allowing the needle to go lower into the main jet. This will give you less fuel, causing your engine to run „leaner“. If you go down with the clip, you‘re allowing for more space between the needle and the jet. This will cause your engine to run more rich. If you set it at the second groove, you shouldn‘t be far off from the idle settings you‘re looking for. I hope this helps! Enjoy your weekend😃👍🏽

[@cspark9186]

@@WorkshopRebuildI just this minute found the "Needle Clip Position" specification in the Clymer manual and of course you were correct again. Also, thanks for the great explanation.

[@charlescarroll1778]

On the main jet assembly there is a small plastic reed that is missing in your video. Part #38 on Bing website schematic. It goes between the spring and the nozzle spray jet

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Hi Charles, thank you very much for this comment! I will confirm this according to the drawings and share an update-video once it all goes back together. Thank you for sharing this information with everybody!! Regards Andreas

[@jdhartenstein]

Great walk through, thanks!

[@WorkshopRebuild]

You are very welcome! Thanks a lot for tuning in and sharing this comment. I‘ll be sharing more BMW related content in my upcoming videos and I hope you enjoy them. Regards Andreas

[@denniscunningham2041]

Great video, but one question: The carburetor you are working on is not a /5 but a /2. Why are you referring to it as a /5?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thanks a lot! This carburetor is used for the R50/5 models and R60/5 models. The R75/5 models used a CV carburetor (diaphragm style). The reason why I said /5 is because it came off the R60/5 I‘m currently restoring. If they are identical to the /2 carburetors then I‘m glad this video covers those models too😃👍🏽 Regards Andreas

[@441rider]

Tip if you don't have ultra sonic cleaner is you can use 3d printer nozzle cleaners for these jets. Saved me 300kms from home in bear country! 1 spec of crap can stop the accelerator. There is also a pilot with only upper holes in top.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

That's an awesome tip! I'm going to look into that, as I own a 3D printer myself. Thanks for sharing your experience and advice. Regards Andreas

[@KCPieRider]

Great, Thanks for sharing!!

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you very much and YOU ARE welcome😃👍🏽

[@davidnelson6893]

Yes that is cool

[@WorkshopRebuild]

I appreciate it, David! Thanks for tuning in👨🏻‍🔧

[@osomlongboards7988]

Hello friend! I would like to know what would be the proper adjustment for the air and mixture for this bing 26 carburetors? How many turns for each? Thanks in advance

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Hi there! Depending on your carburetor configuration, the adjustment can be different. Here is the factory spec and adjustment: R50/5 26mm carb: Main Jet 130, Needle Jet 2.68, Slide Needle Position 2, Idle Air Mixture Screw 0.5 Turn R60/5 26mm carb: Main Jet 130, Needle Jet 2.68, Slide Needle Position 2, Idle Air Mixture Screw 0.5 to 1 Turn I hope this helps. Regards Andreas

[@paulferrara9079]

Why no choke on this bike R60/5 ?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Choke was an option for the R50/5 and R60/5's.

[@paulferrara9079]

@@WorkshopRebuild oh ok, 👍

[@cspark9186]

Have you ever considered using the Mikuni carburetors? R60 BMW VM30 | Mikuni Replacement Carburetor Kit | VM34 Mikuni Complete Kit | Sold by SpeedMotoCo? I know they are, of course not original to the bike. Have you ever worked on Mikuni caburetos?

[@RCASSIN]

Great video! The carb has no choke?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you very much! This carburetor does not feature a choke. Some R60‘s had them, others didn‘t. The choke cable port is closed off with a factory sheetmetal plug.

[@RCASSIN]

@@WorkshopRebuild Thanks for getting back to me. So wouldn't be hard to start with no choke? I have a 1941 zundapp KS 600 with the incorrect carb on it with no choke. Its a little hard to start in the cold.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

@RCASSIN if you have this identical carburetor, it’s possible to remove the choke cover plate as it is just made of sheetmetal. Then buy the components and add it to the carburetor. If you’re really in need of a choke system for your Zündapp, I would fabricated a custom “plate-choke”. This can be made directly in front of the carburetor. It can either be a slide plate or a twist plate, something you see on small lawn mowers. This is almost better as you don’t have any cables running to-and-from your carburetor, just a small lever. Let me know what you make of this.

[@RCASSIN]

@@WorkshopRebuild That is great advise, but i did manage to get a more correct carb with a choke. I would like to keep the originally of the bike. It is a Bing 1/24/27. But it is missing the speed needle. So I will have to find that. Thanks for your help!

[@WorkshopRebuild]

@RCASSIN I understand what you mean😊👍🏼 I hope you’re able to find the speed needle. Bing has a lot of components available for their classic carburetors, but maybe you’ll find an alternative source which is cheaper. Bing has very high prices when it comes to those small parts😅 Good luck and I would love to hear your KS600 running. They are beautiful bikes

[@DariuS152mm]

hi what is the level of the float in these carbs because I just want to set how many mm?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Hi there! When I adjust my carburetor floats, I tend to turn the carburetor 180 degrees, so the float closes the needle valve by itself (without pressure). Then check to see if the float is level with the gasket surface of the carburetor. In this case the surface of the float bowl to the carburetor body. Sometimes aftermarket or OEM floats need to be adjusted/tweaked up or down to achieve the correct setting. I am not aware of a "mm" setting on this carburetor, but if you find any information on that, please share it below this video for others to read. Thanks for your great question and I hope this helps you in a way. Regards Andreas

[@richardr9859]

Great video. Very detailed and informative.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you very much Richard, I appreciate your positive feedback! I tried my best to explain as many components as possible for all to see. Best Regards Andreas

[@bobdelaplage690]

Great thx bro

[@WorkshopRebuild]

You're very welcome! Cheers

[@davidmcdonagh1216]

Hi there, when you removed the float needle I see that there is still a small brass fitting left in the housing which you did not remove. Could you please tell me is there a small o ring on this housing . Asking this question as apparently on some carburetors if damaged this o ring is the cause of a petrol leak. Yes I have a leaking carb which I shall be looking at shortly. Thank you.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Hello Sir, you are correct. I did not remove the float needle seat within the carburetor because it seems to be brand new! I believe the previous owner must have installed a new one. Upon research in the service manual and workshop manual, I did not see any information about an o-ring. I found a link to a brand new float seat: www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/carbseat318.htm and you will be able to see that there is indeed no groove around this part to accommodate an o-ring. I hope this helps you understand that it is possible for fuel to leak past this seat if your carburetor housing is damaged! You can inspect this by adding fuel into the carburetor and activating the float needle with your finger. If the needle is closed and you still have fuel passing by, your housing around the float needle seat is cracked or damaged. Best regards -Andreas

[@davidmcdonagh1216]

@@WorkshopRebuild Thank you very much for the advice. And well done on the videos, very helpfull and informative.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

You're very welcome and thank you!! I try my best and I'll have a very long video uploaded tomorrow on the 4-speed gearbox. This will be a full rebuild and now I can focus on some other subassemblies. Cheers -Andreas

[@441rider]

@@WorkshopRebuild Pretty sure there is a viton tipped needle that is same or close spec. The bush seat gets hammered up after years of use a vet mech told me and drawing it out is a tough task. I lower the floats 1mm for the bush wear and it worked to add more pressure on seat. Great vid.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

There probably is a float bowl needle that has a viton tip and that would be a great way to fix this. Correct, if your carburetors to work properly you might have to change the seat & needle every couple years. Removing the old one might be hard, but it could always be machined out with an endmill. Either way, your adjustments of 1mm will compensate for wear and hopefully you don't have to change your anytime soon. Cheers

[@brainspace3133]

Best ever.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you very much😃

[@01dooman]

what cleaner was used ? please

[@WorkshopRebuild]

This caburetor was in the ultrasonic cleaner for 2 sessions of 20minutes. The cleaning solution is only Water and Dishwahing soap. Once removed from the ultrasonic cleaner I blow everything off with an air-hose and the parts are clean and dry. I hope this help, Best regards.

[@441rider]

What needle notch do you /5 guys use in slide?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

This is my first /5 to be honest, so I will have to see! Once everything is back together and I make fine adjustments I will reveal the details. Until then, I still have quite a bit of work to do.

[@haganshops7595]

I had no problem with your grammar or diction. I am in the USA.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you for informing me! I often structure sentences the way they are in German. I'll make an effort to improve my grammar and my videos every day. Thank you for tuning in. Regards Andreas

[@mfs5493]

Your grammar needs tidying up round the edges.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thanks for your feedback. I can definitely improve my grammar and that's something I wish to do. Most of the time I think in a different language and speak English. Hopefully I can get better in my upcoming videos. Regards Andreas

[@gregmooney9320]

You are doing fine Andreas. Thanks for sharing.