BMW R60/5 Gearbox Disassembly

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Today I will focus on the BMW R60/5 4-Speed transmission and see what the internals look like after more than 90'000km on the odometer. As you may know, the early 70's motorcycles had a 4-speed transmission which later got upgraded to a 5-speed transmission on the /6 models.
I've read the shop manual for the disassembly process of this transmission and BMW has two specific special tools for the output flange and the transmission cover. These tools are not easy to find, so I decided to make a set of special tools that will work for me in this video.
I really only have to use these tools for the disassembly process, so it's not too serious!
The transmission was stripped down enough to identify the bearing sizes and seal sizes. I will replace all components that show wear in an upcoming video, so stay tuned if you are interested in the assembly process.
If this video was helpful, please give it a "thumbs up", comment if you have any questions and consider subscribing.
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Timestamps:
00:00 Intro
01:24 BMW R60/5 Transmission Removal
02:24 Removing Accessories
04:32 Special Tool For Output Flange Nut + Removal
09:28 Output Flange Removal (Puller Setup)
10:52 Clutch Throwout Bearing & Pushrod
12:38 BMW R60/5 Transmission Cover Removal (Special Tool)
17:16 Attention! Output & Cluster Shaft Shims
18:27 How Does The Transmission Work?
21:37 Output & Cluster Shaft Removal
23:40 Input Shaft Removal
24:23 Why Did I Disassemble The Transmission?
25:18 Summary

[@cozydram1]

less music more info....please.......your explanation awesome.......thank you.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

I will be implementing voice-overs as music is playing. This way I can still share more details while I'm rebuilding certain assemblies and I hope this will help with your viewer experience. Regards Andreas

[@JoshRussakis]

Solid series, nice to watch your progress! I liked your solution to the special tool for removing the gearbox cover, very clever! I work on quite a few airheads and know the pain of not being able to find/buy the universe of special tools to properly work on these machines. I made one that looks more like the factory tool, but I'll definitely keep your design in mind if I need to make another. Keep up the solid work!

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Hi Josh, thanks for tuning in and watching my video series! I appreciate your feedback about the special (custom) tool I created. I guess when you're in need of a tool, you get a little bit creative and that's what happened in this case haha. I'm happy to hear that you've worked on many airheads in the past and it's great to learn new things from more experienced BMW enthusiasts, like yourself! It's probably a good idea to re-create an original tool, especially if you're going to be working on more bikes in the future. I'd love to see some examples you've worked on! Thanks again for leaving a comment, it really helps this video and give me motivation to keep going!!! Regards Andreas

[@441rider]

The shifter return spring is weak point if it breaks your stuck in whatever gear it was last in. You can coat hanger bodge shift but on the road that is hard to change.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

That would be very unfortunate if it something like that would happen! Thank you for sharing this weak-point. It will definitely help others along the way if they want to rebuild their own gearbox. Regards Andreas

[@100nortonfan7]

The sequence you described for the shift pattern is incorrect. The detent above 1st gear -- shift lever starting from the bottom travelling upwards -- is actually neutral, followed by 2nd, 3rd and 4th respectively. As such: 1st, neutral, 2nd, 3rd and 4th.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you for your explanation and advice, it's much appreciated. I just reviewed my video once again and I explain how this transmission shifts from neutral to 4th gear (20:22- 21:36). I fully understand that neutral is above first, but neutral is not a gear. In the assembly video I share a better insight of this shift-mechanism and how everything gets put back together. Best regards -Andreas

[@scottwalker8949]

Be sure to get rid of the drive shaft bolts they are stretch bolts and will break if re used

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you for your advice, Scott! I have 4 brand new bolts and lock washers ready, once the driveshaft goes back onto the transmission output flange. Regards Andreas

[@S2NAZ]

Fun to watch you video series icon this bike. I’m curious, why did you decide not to clean the exterior of the bike and engine/trans/drive casings on the bike before you disassembled it? 👍🏻👋🏻

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Hi there! Thanks for tuning in and following this video series, it's much appreciated!! I have received multiple comments regarding this topic and I guess I just don't clean it hem (haha). It is wise to clean around a component if you just want to replace a gasket or a seal, but if you got through the whole assembly, you're generally going to make sure all parts are perfectly clean before the assembly. Thank you for your great question. Regards Andreas

[@dandrechesterfield5411]

This series is exactly what I needed to find. I was about to sell my R60/5 because there's no mechanics in my area now I at least know I can turn to these videos if I want or need to fix it. Just curious.. since it had low compression was that the only issue aside from gaskets? If you wanted to do the bare minimum to get it running what would you have needed to do?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Hi D‘andre! I‘m glad you didn‘t put your R60/5 up for sale. These bikes are just really neat and hopefully if you invest a little bit of time to get it running right, it‘ll be a keeper for years to come. After measuring all engine components I found wear on the cylinder walls and pistons. It was just within spec, but I decided to choose oversized pistons for this project. I will talk more about this in an upcoming engine rebuild video. Another „issue“ was the valve seating surface. This with the wear on the inside of the cylinders caused a low compression and therefore I will overhaul this engine from front to back. If you have low compression, you might just want lap-in your valves and you should achieve a higher compression. This is probably what I would have done if I just wanted to bring this bike back to life. I hope this helps and if you have any other questions, feel free to ask! Regards Andreas

[@dandrechesterfield5411]

@@WorkshopRebuild what does lap in the valves mean?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

I haven't made a video about this yet, but I probably will in the near future. Here is a link about valve lapping: bit.ly/3QWp21Y This will ensure that you valves are flush up against the valves seats. This is commonly known as being "seated" properly. I hope this helps.

[@albertothompsonperez3332]

same feelin bro hehe here where i live theres no mechanics and the tools are expensive

[@benjaminpena8257]

This is really good, do you fix bikes for a living ? Or this is just for content?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Thank you very much Benjamin! I do not fix bikes for a living. I've always enjoyed motorcycles and I thought it would be great to work on one. I usually share what I'm currently working on, so my projects range from garden tractors, to tractors and now to motorcycles...who knows what I'll work on in the near future. Thank you for your great question, best regards -Andreas

[@om888]

What if you used an impact wrench on that 24mm socket?

[@WorkshopRebuild]

That would work too! I‘m just not a big fan of impact wrenches and that’s why I rarely use them😁

[@cylepath6248]

nice video. voice needs to match the music or get rid of music. have speakers up loud enough to hear voice but music is way too high and have to adjust.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

Excuse me for the inconvenience! I had some issues with my audio in the past, but they have since been resolved. Let's just say I learned how to use my microphone and edit my videos better. Thanks for pointing this out though! Regards Andreas

[@simonchilli2088]

90 000 km is only 55 000 miles which is not that high. That said it is an older bike with less valves per cylinder that modern bixe.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

I made a mistake when I talked about the mileage, because this bike is an American import and it does have MPH on the speedometer. This must mean the mileage is in miles too! The odometer read around 93'000 miles and the previous owner said it stopped working a long time ago (before he brought this BMW with him into Canada)! It's very possible that this bike has 100'000 miles on the clock! Nevertheless, I am working on the speedometer and I'm in the process of restoring it by installing a new bezel, gauge faceplate and making sure the assembly works flawlessly before I crimp it back together. This will be an interesting video to share with everyone, as I haven't seen many of them online. Correct, the /5 model bike still had two valves per cylinder head. I'm glad it doesn't have more, because it's less to repair haha. Thanks for leaving so many comments Simon, I really appreciate it! Regards Andreas

[@simonchilli2088]

@@WorkshopRebuild I think I'm correct that as BMW tried to compete with big Japanese tourers the 2 valves per cylinder was becoming unreliable and even blowing up on a model that was sort of designed to take on the Suzuki Katana. P.S I've got my nephew in-law interested and subscribed too.

[@simonchilli2088]

@@WorkshopRebuild That's a lot of miles and why the engine has so much wear and tear.

[@WorkshopRebuild]

@@simonchilli2088 That is very possible! I'm not very familiar with Japanese bikes myself and I'm a little bit too young to know this history from the 70's/80's. I will try and do some research to figure out what models BMW had issues with and when they made internal changes to their iconic drivetrain. It's always great to learn something new and know more about the brand. Thank you for sharing the word Simon!! This helps tremendously. Regards Andreas

[@WorkshopRebuild]

@@simonchilli2088 For a motorcycle, that is a lot of miles! The previous owner was living in Florida and I can understand the climate is a little bit more suitable to ride than here in central Alberta haha. The engine could have made if for a couple more rides...but the way I'm rebuilding it, it should last at least another 50 years!