BOAT MOTOR * 95 Johnson 115 outboard * optical ignition stator removal.

[@robchurchill1368]

SUBSCRIBED!!! Reel Hard Fishing is an awesome channel! Love your step-by-step videos on the Johnson 115 V4. Stator removal was illustrated very clearly. Super HELPFULL! Thank you SO MUCH!!! I'm pretty good with my Jeep wrenching, I feel I could do this myself because of your video!

[@1998jmusmc]

Hello, I am going to try to make this short and detailed at the same time. I have a 1993 Evinrude 150HP outboard engine. My engine cranks up on the first crank consistently. There is no loss of power at low and high RPM engine wise. The only issue I noticed was charging system. My voltage was dropping down to 11.1 when running all day. I have brand new battery. The RPM gauge was working at the time. I fully charge my batteries when not in use and always noticed a drop voltage. So I replaced the rectifier. Immediately the voltage was up to 13.5 volts which indicated that my charging system was working. This lasted for a day or until I started using my navigation lights on the second day. My anchor light worked fine, but when I turned on my front navigations light, voltage would drop from 12.9 to 12.3. My charging system stopped working and my Tachometer RPM gauge stopped working too. So I checked and noticed that my new rectifier was bad again. Since the boat is old and I am a new owner, I decided to replace the stator and rectifier together second time around. When I removed the old stator, and did the ohm meter test and continuity test, the readings were the same as the new stator. I assume bad stator can pass a test until it heats up and fail. I tested the rectifier and confirmed it was defective and tested the new one and it passed. I notice the two wires(Purple and Gray) (Sending unit wire to tach and power wire) that plug into the rectifier, each have continuity with ground even when disconnected from the new rectifier. Is this normal? I tried troubleshooting by doing the following: I disconnected all wires from both terminals on the battery I disconnected all the wires that go into the tachometer gauge. Since maybe it was causing the ground. ( I was told a tachometer can kill your rectifier fast) With the above all disconnected, I am still getting continuity between the purple and grey wire with ground. I have installed the new stator and rectifier, but I am worried about starting the motor and damaging the rectifier and stator. Appreciate any clarification about the continuity of those 2 wires in question. When you get time, could you see if you if your two wires have continuity as well? Your 115 is identical to the wiring on my 150hp.

[@ReelHardFishing]

If I get the time yes. It's been a long time since I've been able to work on it. Lot going on.

[@1998jmusmc]

@@ReelHardFishing I really appreciate it.

[@robchurchill1368]

Great video again. I have an exact motor needing this exact repair. How long were those puller bolts you bought separately? Thanks again dude for this content!

[@ReelHardFishing]

I'll have to double check but I believe at least 4 inches

[@Faroundfindout24]

Hey man what is the yellow wire that is unplugged near the harnesses, it has a male and female connectors… mine is unplugged as well and I just want to know what it is for. Great video!!

[@ReelHardFishing]

I'm not sure exactly what yellow wire you are referring to. Is it pictured in my video? I only see the yellow wire that's connected to the harness leading to stator

[@bubbleseverywhere194]

Thanks for the video sir. I just subscribed to your channel. I’m suspecting I have the same problem on my 90hp. Can you make a short video on how you tested the stator? Thanks 🙏

[@ReelHardFishing]

Yes I'll do that this week sometime for you, I've been very busy, so I'll do my best to make a short video.

[@bubbleseverywhere194]

@@ReelHardFishing thanks brother

[@ReelHardFishing]

@@bubbleseverywhere194 i dropped that video for you.

[@bubbleseverywhere194]

@@ReelHardFishing thank you sir

[@ReelHardFishing]

@@bubbleseverywhere194 no prob

[@beardenstephen1]

I realize this video is 2 years old now, however, the entire "puller assembly" is NOT needed to remove the flywheel for this particular engine. Use the fine threaded bolts that come with the puller or get some " grade 8 bolts" from a hardware store. The bolts need to be 3" or longer. They will fit into the only 2 larger threaded holes in the flywheel that face opposite of each other. Simply run them down evenly a little at a time & the flywheel will release & come up nice & smooth. It's as simple as that !!! And do NOT use an air impact on this job unless you want broken bolts.

[@adamwhite4787]

That’s a healthy looking lawn.

[@pabloleguena3956]

Did you ever do the video of building it back

[@ReelHardFishing]

No, I lost my job, no money to finish right now

[@pabloleguena3956]

Did ur motor start with a bad stator?

[@sethtravis9293]

How did you get that electronic timing wheel off, I broke mine. It looks like a special wrench to spin it off

[@arieslong8167]

Great video! I have the a Johnson 150 with the same type of flywheel cover. However, when I turn the screw to remove it, the motor appears to be turning. Any suggestions how to remove with turning the motor? Thanks

[@ReelHardFishing]

You need to hold the flywheel in place, use a belt or screwdriver to to counter act the flywheel. Or an impact.

[@ReelHardFishing]

Thanks for watching.

[@patricksegler3376]

The manual advises using a piston stop on number one. IDK...scary... I used a chain. BUT, I want to CAUTION YOU ALL about using an impact on reinstall. For removal, I think an impact may be the way to go. You can snap the bolt off in the shaft using an impact on the install. Also, when using a flywheel puller to pull the flywheel. Be very careful again. I would put the original bolt back into the crank before using a puller again. The universal outboard flywheel puller I used split my crankshaft, (fractured the top threads) and I had hell getting it reassembled. I almost died. Thought I had ruined the crankshaft! So be very careful in how you proceed.

[@GregLewis-j5v]

i have same engine my starter solenoid is bad but cant get out we took top stuff off but looks like lowerv cowling needs off we cant get it off any suggestions thanks greg

[@ReelHardFishing]

You may have to loosen your lower cowling, but I don't remember having to do that. Once you get all the top stuff off. You take the mount bolts out and then finagle it out

[@GregLewis-j5v]

thanks will try again@@ReelHardFishing

[@Mr.Chomb-w9f]

I have an engine bombardier johnson 90HP ( J90PL),problem no spark at spark plug,please help me what the part problem.thanks

[@ReelHardFishing]

Check your coil packs first. Then check your cdi box if you have one. If you are getting power to your coil then it's prob stator or cdi box

[@Mr.Chomb-w9f]

@@ReelHardFishing power Out from stator....if the optical sensor damaged,Will it affect in ignition system' ( no Spark)...thanks A lot of

[@Mr.Chomb-w9f]

Sorry I am From indonesia

[@ReelHardFishing]

@@Mr.Chomb-w9f yes, the optical trigger is triggers the spark

[@patricksegler3376]

Good Job. The stator may not look bad, but all that black goo in the bottom is melted off and killing it, increasing the resistance and dropping the voltage output. Or dropping the resistance, in which case, your rectifier might have been damaged too. If it was the stator initially, it might run until it gets hot, then won't stay started unless you press and hold the start key in the ignition. Always a sign that your stator is gone. Hope it fixed all your troubles. I had to replace the rectifier on mine shortly after. Oh, and I wouldn't recommend any knock off brands other than OEM or CDI. I went through two knock off stators from Amazon.

[@ReelHardFishing]

Thanks, i haven't ordered it yet, i have a cdi box from cdi, after i replaced it the stator and optical eye went bad. Not sure about rectifier

[@ReelHardFishing]

Sorry, the rectifier/cdi box is what i replaced first then this issue.

[@1998jmusmc]

@@ReelHardFishing Hello, first thank you for this detailed video, I have same cover type on my 1993 150HP Evinrude. I first replaced the original water cooled rectifier because my engine was not charging my batteries. It worked for about a day, but now engine is not charging again and now my RPM gauge is not working either. I am thinking it is my stator. Is there any way to test the stator before removing it with multimeter? Appreciate any feedback. Or may I just got a bad rectifier from Amazon? :-)

[@edgecrusher8605]

Do you have a video on re-installing the flywheel? Most outboard flywheels have a nut, mine Is like yours with bolts, do you just torguw the bolts to a certain spec and it pushes down?

[@rubentrujillo9915]

Nesecito la tapa de un motor 1999 de la misma Marfa 115 caballis

[@FactsMattersUSA]

Terrible camera work but thanks

[@brick4690]

Dumb music

[@ReelHardFishing]

You watched it and thanks for the view buddy. Love the jealous haters.