Scale Rail Code Transition for the Model Railroad | Boomer Diorama ~ # 238

Multiple Code Rail may seem insignificant on our model railroads. Nevertheless, it is relevant in the real world, and can add that extra prototypical touch to any model railroad or diorama.
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[@tech42long35]

Stumbled onto this channel, and I was FLOORED by the diorama. Fantastic. (Definitely a Wile-E-Coyote jaw-dropper moment!!) As a child model-builder", and train-set recipient.. it was such a fond memory. So much impatience, rushing things, disappointments of the outcomes.. lol.. and never really understanding why my Uncle beside-me was constantly smirking. Until I grew up and had kids.! This channel has REALLY been a pleasure to visit. The production value is Fantastic. All that hard work. For Us. Thanks so much. Eventually a switching shelf will unfold. A few months more, and ill start building beyond the tiny oval from decades ago. The buildup, reading, watching others.. and just wading-into deeper waters of diorama making has "taken over". Super super rewarding so far. If not for people like you Sir.. many of us would let the dust accumulate on our old old sets that should be cherished and enjoyed. not boxed-up and forgotten. AND all this new tech! as a gadget person and tech.. its like waking up in Santa's shop. "magic". Anyway cheers everyone.

[@boomerdiorama]

My goodness Sir . . . I don't know how to reply to that. Such explicitly gracious accolades and encouragement. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your thoughts and words of encouragement. If you are inspired, the channel has achieved its purpose. Welcome aboard and enjoy the ride! Cheers ~ Boomer. 😁👍

[@bruceames6332]

Thanks for sharing the model hobby shop Inter City. I picked up the spruce cutter and some of the sheets of N Scale brick and stone sheets. Great website and very helpful too!!! I recommend them also. Thanks, Boomer much appreciated, Sir. Bruce in Minnesota

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers!

[@silvertrain7945]

I appreciate your attention to detail. People strive to have a high end layout that fills a basement. They realize years into it the amount of work and patience needed to pull it off. You have a great way of building yours. A section at a time. Thanks again for posting another great video.

[@boomerdiorama]

I feel quite comfortable and content with this layout.

[@riogrande5761]

I've laid a lot of prefab track, code 100, 83 and 70, but this guy is more advanced than me.

[@boomerdiorama]

I really like the Code 70.

[@thomradice8680]

Boomer! Been following you for some time. Although I model 1863, your modeling techniques are quite applicable to some of the work I’m doing on my W&A. Thank you much for the consistent videos that share important approaches to the dream.

[@boomerdiorama]

Cool, thanks!

[@ericjohnson3746]

I did something similar years ago. I built a civil war era layout using code 55 rail and basswood ties on cork on plywood. But I used pliobond glue under the rail and heated the top of the rail with a soldering gun. This fused the glue into the ties . Nothing ever came loose until I dismantled that layout. I used stub switches and everything worked. Since there were no spike heads I had the full .055" for flange clearance. It only ended when after years I longed for a more modern setting. Such is model railroading. I love your work and enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

[@boomerdiorama]

Pliobond is awesome glue. I used it in the past with O Scale and it never gave way.

[@fogdan]

I Love These! Thank you for posting and spending time to make them for us.

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@michaelimpey1407]

Boomer, amazing attention to detail here on getting your road crossing "just so". Again great to have protos of the prototype to get the details real world realistic. Thank you for sharing, and cheers, stay safe Michael

[@boomerdiorama]

Many thanks!

[@glennwolf4492]

Boomer, +1 on Paul Mallory’s track work . Also, his book on bridges is excellent.

[@boomerdiorama]

I have the Bridge book as well. Great read on the prototype practice.

[@OldcampRanch]

Good Information, thanks for sharing 👍🏻

[@boomerdiorama]

👍

[@jesselomas8626]

As always, excellent tutorial... (BTW, did Dusty reappear and hopefully back to hear usual self)

[@boomerdiorama]

Not yet!

[@user-bf1oc6zt1z]

Greetings From Colorful Colorado WJ. Again, thank you for a great informative lesson. Your faithful student, John

[@boomerdiorama]

You are very welcome!

[@4everdc302]

I do have 2 sizes of rail on the layout. But not hooked to each other. Always thought I'd have troubles with the transition. Thanks, Boomer, for sharing these techniques🚂🇨🇦🙋

[@boomerdiorama]

Easy to do with ME Joiners.

[@nickogden6200]

If you can get hold of them . I can’t seem to find any in the UK .

[@boomerdiorama]

Try Intercity Trains & Hobbies. They will mail them to you.@@nickogden6200

[@mikerubynfs]

I use smaller code rail in yards and also have different rail bed heights for mainline, sidings and yard tracks. It is only a couple of mm different in height, but easily seen.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed!

[@donhanley1213]

The time taken to have flawless track work as well as rolling stock pays huge dividends with operations. The change of rail through a road crossing of a secondary track to match the mainline is fairly common. Keep up the great work.

[@boomerdiorama]

Well said!

[@thomascarr4603]

Very interesting presentation, thanks for posting it. I agree about InterCity Trains, they are a great operation.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes they are!

[@ainsleyperry5192]

Boomer, The way this last little section is coming together, early days but looks very nice. By the time this areas finished you'll be able to get outside and cut some timber in a month? Sweet As. You can also use cork for a road surface with a smear of bathroom tile grout, premixed grey across the top. to represent just a tar surface. Cheers, Chris Perry

[@boomerdiorama]

Hoping to cut some wood soon!

[@OtterCreek]

Introduce a kink. I'm intrigued. I hope in a future video you can show how this is done.

[@boomerdiorama]

Needle nose pliers and eyeball it in. After the solder tweak it back some.

[@OtterCreek]

@@boomerdiorama Do you nip some of the base of the rail away or is that necessary?

[@boomerdiorama]

I file and chamfer the ends a bit. If you pin and glue the meeting tracks well you won't experience a kink if you line them up good with straight pins.@@OtterCreek

[@Jon-yl4iu]

Nice work, I am interested to see your pavement process here…. Similar to section 1? I have been following you since Glover Road and I don’t recall if you have ever touched on your track maintenance methodology (aka cleaning or not). Any chance you could share in a future video? Or point me to the vlog?

[@boomerdiorama]

Sure thing and thanks for asking. Here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioeyo4KVgJx1j6M

[@davidcurtis5398]

Boomer, I have not seen any of the raised road bead on the layout. Do you lay all of he track on just the flat cork?? I want to do a switching layout for the next one with maybe an elevated running track on the outside. I wish we had a good hobby shop here in town as I have to drive about 60 miles (one way) to get to a good shop... Why do you seal the cork?? Doesn't that cause the sound to amplify through the base of the layout?? I was under the impression that the cork was to silence the noise. Looking forward to the next video because I can learn so much from you. Thanks...

[@boomerdiorama]

It matters what you use for sealing things. I seal things with "Matte Medium." Matte medium is flexible and not hard and brittle like PVA. PVA acts like a snare drum where matte medium does not. I have tested this in the past and this is why I use matte medium for ballast - not PVA. I don't find any noise when I run my trains. As far as elevated track, you have to pre-plan the elevations, ditches , draws , etc. ahead of time and model them in. I use cork and foam strategically for this.

[@scale_model_apprentice]

G'Day Boomer, I recently compiled a playlist of all of your Glover Road videos. It's public on my KZbin channel. Please let me know if anything needs amended, added, or removed, and thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with everyone.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for supporting and sharing the channel. I appreciate the link and support. I'm sure it is good. I need to update the playlist as well, but thank you for all that work. Cheers ~ Boomer. 😁👍

[@ericp-ow1eq]

Great video! Do you varathane or put matte medium over all the cork base prior to putting scenery on?

[@boomerdiorama]

Only where I glue the tie's down. Sometimes I just use medium CA because the matte medium (for ballast) seals everything anyway. I use matte medium for ballast so that will hold everything down once it is secure every four to six inches. Matte medium stays flexible so it doesn't reverberate sound like PVA doers as well.

[@ericp-ow1eq]

@@boomerdiorama thank you! I didn’t think you did but I wanted to make sure. Got my birch plywood, got to cut it up and will start building my n scale rr soon, will be using the cork and not foam.

[@boomerdiorama]

I use foam for edges, slopes and ditches etc.@@ericp-ow1eq