Boring bar set part 2

[@MrArray1967]

I bought the same _Small Hole Boring Tools_ kit from _Hemingway Kits_ a long time ago now. I might have some projects coming up sooner or later, so I thought someone else must have done this already and searched on KZbin. Bingo there your two videos were. Splendid! Thank you🇬🇧🇩🇰

[@Rustinox]

Good idea of design. That's something that I will keep in mind.

[@GenePavlovsky]

You might want to mention in the video that it's part 2 of the project, and include a link to part 1 in the description. And a link forward from part 1 in its description to this video.

[@steved8038]

Looks like another good Hemingway product nicely made and explained Thank you.

[@russellhayward2359]

Hi Alan thanks for showing this series, it's always nice when using home made tools, they look very good indeed

[@michaelnicholson5218]

Hi Alan I'll be making some !! I've just taken delivery of a Warco Super Major. When fitting the feed box, I took the LH end table end bracket off. Guess what # NO BEARING.! So first job was fitting an oilite bush, and drilling and tapping the feed box to access the oiler in the bracket, As per your previous recommendation. I though this od would be right up your street for a modification video! I dont have a channel so, I cant post it mysel. Regards Mike N

[@enotsengineering]

Hi Michael. Thanks for the info I will check mine when I do a service on the mill.

[@michaelnicholson5218]

@@enotsengineering A Hi Alan The oilite bearing is all done now, and it made me feel better! Can I ask you if you have found a neutral in the gearbox on the Super Major which would make clocking up bores a bit easier? Thanks

[@enotsengineering]

Hi I found you can move the gear selector half way between gears and you should be able to move the spindle by hand

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Great concept! Thanks for sharing Cheers

[@tonypike5785]

Thats a great project ! Thanks

[@ironhead65]

I like how I’m the first minute or so, you had to tap the dial indicator! I’ve had to learn to do that as well. You get to the point where you’re not paying attention to everything and when you see the needle, not move, you think everything’s perfect, and then laid around you discover the needle did not move because the indicator was not actually touching anything. You only make that mistake once, or in my case a few times before you start learning to double check everything.😅 Great video as always thank you for putting another one out!

[@gospelman7222]

Excellent job, Alan - well done. Those boring bars will be a really useful addition to your workshop.

[@enotsengineering]

Hope so!

[@stringmanipulator]

very nice project 😁👍

[@enotsengineering]

Thank you 👍

[@myradavis2599]

Looks very good to me. I assume if you wanted you could grind a specific grooving tool, etc.etc. very practical. Thanks for the viddy.

[@enotsengineering]

Hi yes you can grind the tool to cut grooves.

[@joell439]

👍😎👍

[@GenePavlovsky]

I noticed the materials lists mentions 6 tool bits HSS 3/32" & 1/8". Does it mean that bigger bar(s) have bigger bits? I reckon that with a 1/8" tool bit and a 1/8" ball bearing for clamping, one has to be careful when removing the bit for re-sharpening or replacement, it would be quite easy to let the ball fall out through the hole.

[@enotsengineering]

Hi that’s why you don’t drill all the way through

[@GenePavlovsky]

@@enotsengineering Ah, so the drilling depth has to be accurate enough that the ball can touch the tool bit, but not go all the way out...

[@GenePavlovsky]

Nice set of boring bars, I'd like to make a set as well, but probably won't buy a kit as I'd like to have a metric set. Closest sizes seem to be 6, 8 and 10 mm bars with 3 mm torsion rods, and 2.4 toolbits? I already have some 3 mm HSS rods, would 3 mm toolbits be a bit too large? Although it's cheap (but slow) to get HSS round rods from China, saw them on eBay, sold in 0.1 mm increments. Would there be any benefit to ream the toolbit holes, instead of just drilling? Are they drilled instead of reamed because the toolblanks are not accurate enough dimensionally? Or some other reason? The toolbits for these boring bars seem to be quite simple to grind, and, being so small, would also be very cheap. What is the significance of the 45.5 degrees angle? Why not 45?

[@enotsengineering]

You grind a flat on the tool bits and the ball clamps it so need to ream. 45.5 degrees gives 89.5 deg from the bore to the face so only the tip of the tool touches the the bore or bore face

[@GenePavlovsky]

@@enotsengineering Got it. So the clearance angle is only 0.5 degrees. Seems a bit less than usual? I checked a couple of insert boring tools, e.g. SCLCR has 5 degrees of clearance, SDUCR has 3. But well, it seems to work fine in your video. These tool bits have to be pretty short to be usable in small bores, so I suppose there's not that many resharpenings possible before you have to throw it out and make a new one? I do wonder how long do they last. I guess they function a bit like disposable inserts, at least they are cheap, being so small. Probably costs more (in labor) to grind them in the first place, maybe it makes sense to prepare a batch at one grinding session.