Boulder & Lead Combined in New Olympic Formula for Paris 2024 at ECH in Munich 2022 | Adam Ondra

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Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra

Күн бұрын

The first real test of the new Olympic formula for Paris 2024❗I must say it was a lot of fun to combine two disciplines that I like and with less pressure after the successful single disciplines. The formula puts, in my opinion, too much pressure on the route setters, but this time at the European Championships in @Munich2022, they did a relatively good job, and the results reflected what happened on the wall. The brand new video includes climbing footage and interviews with me and the winner @JakobSchubertClimbing!
Watch the brand new sport climbing video and let me know in the comments what you think about the new Olympic formula.
ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
00:12 - First real test of the Olympic formula for Paris 2024 in Munich 2022
00:28 - Boulder comp and scoring formula
02:26 - Jakob Schubert talks about boulder problems
02:45 - Adam Ondra talks about the result from the boulder
03:00 - Lead comp and the scoring system
05:23 - Adam talks about his performance in the lead finals
05:35 - SUBSCRIBE = SUPPORT
06:08 - Jakob Schubert talks about his performance and the crowd in the lead finals
06:35 - Adam completes triple medal from ECH in Munich, 2022
06:48 - Man Boulder Final
07:47 - Man Lead Final
08:14 - Adam's recap of the new Olympic formula for Paris 2024
08:38 - Jakob's recap of the new Olympic format
08:55 - Adam talks about the results, scoring system and route setting
09:54 - Outro
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Have you seen this video of mine ?!
• Hardest Route in Italy...
Thumbnail picture by: Petr Chodura
Special thanks to
Jakob Schubert
Story by
Adam Ondra
Edited by
Adam Ligocki
Camera
Jan Vogl
Pavel Klement
Competition footage provided by
Czech Television - @CeskaTelevizeTV
Production
Kateřina Kuřátková
Jan Verner
Jakub Pína
Subtitles by
Jarka Marčeková
© Adam Ondra 2022
Songlist
Material Music - Timeless Reflections
Wolves - Rose Color
Quality Quest - Enter Sentinel
Pavel Yudin - Stylish Life
Alejandro Del Pozo - Stoic Thoughts
#climbing # #sportclimbing #munich2022 #europeanchampionship #mammut
@mammut

Пікірлер: 166
@sswwooppee
@sswwooppee Жыл бұрын
Dropping speed climbing was an enormous improvement to the format.
@crimping1
@crimping1 Жыл бұрын
Is speed climbing out of the Olympics now?
@sswwooppee
@sswwooppee Жыл бұрын
@@crimping1 Yes, that’s my understanding.
@MrZefel
@MrZefel Жыл бұрын
@@crimping1 No, climbing has two medal sets now, so one for speed and one for this combined format
@snowmilk2240
@snowmilk2240 Жыл бұрын
@@Victor-ji1rz no, the answer to the question "is speed climbing out of the olympics" is "no"
@Jagknorr
@Jagknorr Жыл бұрын
Im glad but im also bummed. Speed climbing is interesting and goes by so fast its kind of fun to watch…and if none of the big boulder/lead names are doing it, then i probably wont watch it. 😆 I will wait for the highlight clips of new world records i guess LOL
@jeksewnoleeray1020
@jeksewnoleeray1020 Жыл бұрын
Totally agree with Jakob, I feel that 3 separate events would be better, but lead and boulder combined is still a drastic improvement from all 3 disciplines.
@jorgetiagosilva
@jorgetiagosilva Жыл бұрын
Not only that but the combined scoring is way improved over the one used for the olympics, where a single extra attempt could make the difference between 1st and 2nd and double your final score. Still, it looks like this method gives more advantages to lead climbers but we'll have to wait until the likes of Narasaki competes in this format
@supernoodles908
@supernoodles908 Жыл бұрын
I'm a swimmer (climb for fun). It annoys me they can't give medals for each climbing discipline. In swimming there's Events: 37 (men: 18; women: 18; mixed: 1) and a medal for each. They can EASILY give out another two medal. You could even do 4 medals, one for each discipline and 1 for the overall best
@rk12968
@rk12968 Жыл бұрын
Nice to see the respect between Adam and Jakob. More guest appearances please! It has a positive impact for the entire discipline and makes climbing one of the friendliest sports out there.
@JasonWilliams84
@JasonWilliams84 Жыл бұрын
Maybe they should just use the change of hold/volume color to indicate the change of point value on the sport route. It would be more obvious for the climbers and spectators.
@lindsayashford2481
@lindsayashford2481 Жыл бұрын
Thought exactly the same!
@doofkopf2579
@doofkopf2579 Жыл бұрын
But then setting gets more limited. You don't always have everyhold in every color available.
@tono971
@tono971 Жыл бұрын
This is not very important information for both competitors and spectators. The competitor must somehow climb as high as he can. Because he doesn't know how high his opponent climbed. It won't help spectator in any way either. OK, from there the competitor will have 1/2/5 points for every hold and that's all. There is no use for this information for spectators. Anyway, someone has to tell him which hold the given competitor has to climb to be first. All he knows is that if the next competitor climbs as high as his predecessor, he will surely win(tie). It's like, for example, in the decathlon. The spectator himself has no idea what result the competitor must achieve in order to win. This is the problem of all combined sports disciplines.
@comedysyrup
@comedysyrup Жыл бұрын
@@doofkopf2579 I'm sure the Olympics could afford to custom order holds of specific colors.
@filda2005
@filda2005 Жыл бұрын
Why not just paint the whole section of the wall in the colour. Like whit no point, blue 1 point, yellow 2 points and red wall 5 points
@tanmad21
@tanmad21 Жыл бұрын
Great job! Love the sportsmanship between Adam and Jakob!
@keeganitreal
@keeganitreal Жыл бұрын
Cool breakdown of the climbs and competition style. Rooting for you at the next one!
@teagenbarnett6269
@teagenbarnett6269 Жыл бұрын
I love the little plants you got along with the medals! A medal is such a cool reward, but having a little life that grows with you years and years after the event is such an amazing reward
@ArtZ00
@ArtZ00 Жыл бұрын
1:17 The boulders were pretty easy he says as he matches the foot to the hand at shoulder height 🤣
@askingjoshy505
@askingjoshy505 Жыл бұрын
Hahaha was looking for this comment 😭😭
@ATjfds
@ATjfds Жыл бұрын
Adam has already ascended, he's no longer bound by his mortal flesh like the rest of us
@niklasmattutis7054
@niklasmattutis7054 Жыл бұрын
Only to see this move hurts.
@ini1107
@ini1107 Жыл бұрын
such a beautiful filming and edditing! Nice job and congrats to both of you. I love your cemestry
@ajillihardy6829
@ajillihardy6829 Жыл бұрын
Congratulations!! Thanks for posting the highlights of your climbing with commentary from both you and Jakob.
@smuir6104
@smuir6104 Жыл бұрын
Good video. Nice work Jacob, and I like the love you show him for doing well
@callmetarif
@callmetarif Жыл бұрын
I love with how much joy they impersonate role models and how nice they cheer each other up. Not a lot of sports where this sportsmanship is as big as in climbing!
@JoshuaGresham
@JoshuaGresham Жыл бұрын
In the long run it would be nice for there to be an individual medal for, Speed, Boulder and Lead plus additional medals for a combined Lead/Boulder and some form of teams event. There are endless possibility with climbing.
@andresv.8880
@andresv.8880 Жыл бұрын
But not endless profitability unfortunately
@bigpantsmallwheels5760
@bigpantsmallwheels5760 Жыл бұрын
@@andresv.8880 it's growing quickly tho
@disposabull
@disposabull 10 ай бұрын
Mixed Male & Female multi-pitch route. Mixed male & female lead through multi-pitch route.
@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989
@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 Жыл бұрын
Initially I wasn't sure on this scoring format, but seeing it in action I like it. My thought was to have a more linear format, but this worked for me. It exponentially rewards doing well on the wall, topping boulders and getting high on the lead route. In contrast, the Tokyo format exponentially rewarded beating other competitors even if the margin between competitors was extremely small. This is a great system, definitely better than my linear idea (one point per hold, more points for a zone, full points off for attempts, something like that).
@tono971
@tono971 Жыл бұрын
Definitely better but not sure if it is the best system. I think that at least boulders should be scored differently. More precisely, attempts should be more valued. The penalty for each attempt is only 0.1 point. There is a big difference in performance if I climb every boulder on the first attempt(flash) or on the third attempt. However, in the points evaluation, the difference between these two performances is very small (only 0.8 points. 4x0.2). To balance this difference, I need to climb one 1 point hold higher. This is almost nothing in lead climbing. I think that it will still depend a lot on route-setters regardless of the scoring system.
@RealSalica
@RealSalica Жыл бұрын
Thanks for explaining the points system . I really loved watching the ECH , I think it was well organized .
@fredericp64
@fredericp64 Жыл бұрын
Great climbing shots! Was awesome to see adam pulling moves on those crazy boulders. I like the rock, but also love the cool gym boulder moves!
@kalfi11
@kalfi11 Жыл бұрын
Really great how you explain the system to people who are not that involved in it. Super clear when you say that. And of course congrats to the medal set from Munich. You’re 🔝
@DestRoYczech
@DestRoYczech Жыл бұрын
Opět pěkný výkon, jsem na takového sportovce jako si ty hrdý! 🥇🥈🥉👍🏻
@junuhunuproductions
@junuhunuproductions Жыл бұрын
Nice explanation! Appreciated this video ☺️☺️
@cactikaty
@cactikaty Жыл бұрын
I like this format. It seems fair.
@sebbi5419
@sebbi5419 Жыл бұрын
Wow - very nice clip. good luck for the next competition
@IZn0g0uDatAll
@IZn0g0uDatAll Жыл бұрын
I love how they help each other and share opinions while figuring out the route. Imagine football players competiting against each other doing something like that.
@Andyjamesontheweb
@Andyjamesontheweb Жыл бұрын
thanks for the post!
@one-o-four8541
@one-o-four8541 Жыл бұрын
Congratulations for the Silver Medal! I like the Concept of the Combined Competition. It is very interesting to watch.
@doposud
@doposud Жыл бұрын
Parádní práce čekal sem kdy bude video z Munichu , škoda že ve videu není zahrnuto bubnování 😁 takový momentky jsou skvělý Kluci strašně rád bych viděl njeakej ten kolab s Jirkou Procházkou a Adamem , třeba jeden den si prohodid trenál
@RoadtoV11
@RoadtoV11 Жыл бұрын
I think speed climbers themselves must be happy as well! What a mega event 😃
@bloggedbyleah
@bloggedbyleah Жыл бұрын
Took off the afternoon of that day from work so i could watch this comp live there 😂 and it was so worth it!
@dereksmalls7808
@dereksmalls7808 Жыл бұрын
Just separate the disciplines... There were 37 medals for swimming in the Tokyo olympics. Surely they can cough up a couple more for climbing.
@Queenfisher444
@Queenfisher444 Жыл бұрын
It will happen quite quickly, the rock climbing was very popular on debut and it will quickly become a more central feature as the sport develops. Important to remember that the competitive organisation of climbing has only existed for a few decades whilst swimming has several centuries behind it if not far far longer.
@kleiber1729
@kleiber1729 Жыл бұрын
Yes. And that is while in a town with 1,000,000 people there are roughly 9 that do ambitious swimming, and 100 that climb 8a. Absolutely pathetic.
@Queenfisher444
@Queenfisher444 Жыл бұрын
@@kleiber1729 it’s not tokyos choice, it is decided by the IOC which is a bunch of crusty old fucks who still think croquet is exercise lol.
@user-gr4bc2kr6z
@user-gr4bc2kr6z Жыл бұрын
Incredible
@languagefreeassangeteacher5338
@languagefreeassangeteacher5338 Жыл бұрын
Cool - thanks
@NageIfar
@NageIfar Жыл бұрын
Being in the crowd was incredible, what an event this has been!
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 Жыл бұрын
"Old Man Jakob with one more gold :)
@paulirgendwer5082
@paulirgendwer5082 Жыл бұрын
Congratulations on winning the lead and being a father
@zivotvkrosne2132
@zivotvkrosne2132 Жыл бұрын
Nice!
@PierLu_77
@PierLu_77 Жыл бұрын
How good is Adam Ondra at explaining rules?!
@floijd
@floijd Жыл бұрын
Right? When I watched in on tv and they tried to explain, I thought this was more complicated than integral calculus.
@sycadelic666
@sycadelic666 Жыл бұрын
No matter what Adam Ondra does he always exemplifies one things - positivity within his good spirit - and thats all you can ask for out of a competitor and person such as himself
@stevenwilliams4034
@stevenwilliams4034 Жыл бұрын
So much better!
@freelancecore1576
@freelancecore1576 Жыл бұрын
Cool!
@cous
@cous Жыл бұрын
How did they come up with this eccentric scoring system?
@leonardinez
@leonardinez Жыл бұрын
Why not just see lead, boulder and speed as 3 separate parts? Then everyone can participate in all parts if they want, compare it with, for example, swimming (a lot of parts in which everyone can participate).So 3 gold medals to win!
@robert.hucknall
@robert.hucknall Жыл бұрын
I think the idea is that the medals are gradually introduced. Adding 6 gold medals straight away is quite a big jump for a sport that is not widely watched. Tokyo and Paris are kind of guinea pigs to see if climbing works as an Olympic sport for them to give medals for separate events, maybe in 2028.
@LlZARD25
@LlZARD25 Жыл бұрын
so glad speed has a seperate medal hopefully next time bouldering will have a separate one as well.
@boahhey4420
@boahhey4420 Жыл бұрын
I have some feedback for you guys. You have to work on your thumbnail. Like with this one you have to put a bigger picture of adam on the front. I love these videos and watch every one but right now im only here because i saw the new insta post. I didnt realize there was a new video at my subscriptions because there are just too many and I overlooked it because it didnt grab my attention. Keep up the great work and effort here on youtube!!
@nbruer1413
@nbruer1413 Жыл бұрын
Adam❤❤❤
@mareksmehlik6935
@mareksmehlik6935 Жыл бұрын
Nice
@eSKAone-
@eSKAone- Жыл бұрын
💟
@Imakulak
@Imakulak Жыл бұрын
LETS GO TURDO 🇨🇦
@NoclockMinecraft
@NoclockMinecraft Жыл бұрын
I'm a little confused about the point system in bouldering, maybe someone can clarify ; if you were to get to the 2nd zone on your first try you'd have 6 points, but if you give the boulder another try and don't top it you'd go to 5.9 points ? fells kinda strange to lose points you earned, wouldn't it be a strat to just get to the 2nd zone first try and not try to top if you feel like you won't manage sometime ?
@rafaelsanna96
@rafaelsanna96 Жыл бұрын
thank god no more speed 🙏
@leopoldleoleo
@leopoldleoleo Жыл бұрын
I’ve actually come around to the idea of a combined event - it’s so cool to have some measure of who the best ‘all round’ climber is
@jeksewnoleeray1020
@jeksewnoleeray1020 Жыл бұрын
It is nice in some ways, the drawback is that climbers who are really strong boulderers or lead climbers have to train in multiple disciplines rather than focusing on what they're best at which causes them to be a bit worse in their preferred area. Most boulderers also climb lead so it's not a big issue combining those two, but speed is like an entirely different event, it's like if triathlons were running, cycling and shotput, one of them just doesn't fit with the others.
@constantinosschinas4503
@constantinosschinas4503 Жыл бұрын
3 separate medals plus 1 for lead+bouldering and one all combined, is more logical. Even skip all combined. Speed climbing is not climbing.
@wanr5701
@wanr5701 Жыл бұрын
@@jeksewnoleeray1020 combined event of speed, bouldering, and lead is akin to having combined timing for 100m sprint, 400m dash, and full marathon. Nonetheless I do enjoy watching climbers that wasn't specialist in their event doing something outside their comfort zone. Some fail some succeed, but that's what makes them climbers.
@TanSpaceX
@TanSpaceX Жыл бұрын
Hey Adam, when they separate the boulder and lead comps at the Olympics, I’d consider competing! 🤣
@orana03
@orana03 Жыл бұрын
What's the next competition for climbing and are you going to be competing in it? Sorry new to the whole competitive scene of climbing
@anishkirtane5860
@anishkirtane5860 Жыл бұрын
I feel bad for Alberto as he was not even considered in the competition between these two although he did beat them in the last olympics. should have included his performance to show how dropping speed changes everything in favor of adam and jacob.
@robbyxd3582
@robbyxd3582 Жыл бұрын
at 6:35 they should have lowered the 2nd place where adam was because he is so tall it made it look like the podium went from 1st to 2nd to 3rd instead of 213
@IronJohn755
@IronJohn755 Жыл бұрын
Good - now maybe my gym will take down their speed wall and put up more sport routes.
@GabrieleBonetti
@GabrieleBonetti Жыл бұрын
I really wanna know who is the inventor of the points system. 3-6-25 -0.1. ok
@GabrieleBonetti
@GabrieleBonetti Жыл бұрын
And the lead one is pure evil mastermind
@miguelgazquez5717
@miguelgazquez5717 Жыл бұрын
The goal is to keep the same ranking in bouldering that before : one top more and you win, then it's zone, and then it's attempt. With these score, it work great. The only difference is that before it was attempts to top and then attempts to zone, and now there is no difference between those.
@auroravuitton90
@auroravuitton90 Жыл бұрын
@@miguelgazquez5717 4 second zone which will be 24 points which is still less than 1 top. Sounds right
@IdDuncan
@IdDuncan Жыл бұрын
@@miguelgazquez5717 I agree, maybe they should have weighted differently each attempt to each zone 1/2/top, something like -1, -0.5, -0.3, don't know, something... Just to enhance the separation on attempt and make the flash very valuable. Anyway, I like the idea of this scoring system, not bad!
@GabrieleBonetti
@GabrieleBonetti Жыл бұрын
I understand, it's just the numbers that are odd.
@liam7342
@liam7342 Жыл бұрын
Just out of interest does this mean that if a competitor skips a hold that but still tops out the would score less points than someone who topped but used all of the holds?
@giacomocasanova2893
@giacomocasanova2893 Жыл бұрын
no
@RaveMasterr
@RaveMasterr 4 ай бұрын
Adam on 5:22, seems like he rushed it? I've found that they usually fail if they rush or jump when they can take it slow.
@krissroxxy
@krissroxxy Жыл бұрын
Soooo... if all the climber fall under hold 20... the results will be based on bouldering only... ?
@getcarter94
@getcarter94 Жыл бұрын
I like the format, but I think some changes are needed for the scoring. In particular -0.1 per attempt in the bouldering should be increased. As it is, there is almost no benefit to flashing a boulder compared to completing it in 5 attempts - particularly important if most of the boulders are easy and you expect many tops. Increasing it to -1 might help to give greater variance in the scores after bouldering (in the European Championships the top four climbers were only separated by 0.2 points after bouldering). Similarly for getting a ‘+’ in the lead - only 0.1 points is too small, maybe it should be half of the points of the next hold.
@ipudisciple
@ipudisciple Жыл бұрын
It's not supposed to be a meaningful difference. It's supposed to be an approximation to "how many tops" with a tie-break of "how many attempts". That's the traditional boulder scoring system. And for that purpose -0.1 might as well be -0.01. They chose -0.1 so that it's small enough to never matter but simple enough that the electronic scoreboards can easily display it.
@getcarter94
@getcarter94 Жыл бұрын
​@@ipudisciple If it's just a boulder event then I agree. But in a combined event the boulder score should always be considered in comparison to the lead score. If climber number 1 flashes a boulder, and climber number 2 takes three attempts to top a boulder but climbs one hold higher in the lead, then should we judge climber number 2 as performing better? Maybe, but it's something to be discussed, and I don't think the current system correctly balances the scoring of boulder and lead
@getcarter94
@getcarter94 Жыл бұрын
I think the system was quite lucky in the European championships that the best lead climbers (Adam and Jakob) also got very high scores in the boulder. It would be interesting to see in an international event how it works, especially with the Japanese climbers who have more specialist boulderers. Then the balance between boulder and lead will be more important
@greghart6310
@greghart6310 Жыл бұрын
I still think the disciplines should be entirely separate, the strengths required are completely different. Failure on the part of the Olympic committee that lets the sport down. Why include it if they do not give the sport full expression?
@nybpl
@nybpl Жыл бұрын
HQ edit
@SmartieLion
@SmartieLion Жыл бұрын
that mascot is cute!
@satanaz
@satanaz Жыл бұрын
Adam? He's not a mascot...
@uploadingjess
@uploadingjess Жыл бұрын
He was honestly pretty annoying in real life :p
@SmartieLion
@SmartieLion Жыл бұрын
@@satanaz Nha mate the mascot in the first 5 seconds of the vid.
@DonatRC
@DonatRC Жыл бұрын
What about Sam or Mejdi?
@TGregers
@TGregers Жыл бұрын
Is speed climbing still going to be a part of the Olympic program?
@rriverapr89
@rriverapr89 Жыл бұрын
yes, but as a separate event with it's own medal
@TGregers
@TGregers Жыл бұрын
@@rriverapr89 Nice! Makes sense. Happy about that change.
@krissroxxy
@krissroxxy Жыл бұрын
Also. What do you think about two athletes climbing at the same time? I hated watching this (must be even worse when watching at the venue without split screen and the ability to pause and go back) but also, they athletes will see each other's beta... ?
@NeutrinoPower
@NeutrinoPower Жыл бұрын
haha, still on the second place, Adam is taller then Jakob on the 1. place 🙂
@tannerphillips9170
@tannerphillips9170 Жыл бұрын
so sick bro
@SpartaSpartan117
@SpartaSpartan117 Жыл бұрын
You don't want to do Speed Adam?
@andy14169
@andy14169 Жыл бұрын
because no one cares about watching it and its a joke bastardization of the sport
@Studiepi
@Studiepi Жыл бұрын
Ovis not
@dark-o
@dark-o Жыл бұрын
He loves speed, but bad people at IFSC changed the format :(
@orana03
@orana03 Жыл бұрын
@@dark-o I'm pretty he's said (maybe in a Magnus mitbo video) he's not great at speed and prefers not to do it at a competitive level
@derekhowell181
@derekhowell181 Жыл бұрын
Can't tell if it's the short hair but Adam looks like he bulked up a bit.
@pbandjosh
@pbandjosh Жыл бұрын
The comment about wanting three medals - perhaps, but I'd rather have it be boulder, lead, and combined. Just drop speed. So few people care about it compared to the other two, it's like the package deal where you get a "free subscription to Bathroom Cleaning Magazine" with your subscription to what you actually want.
@chilln9294
@chilln9294 Жыл бұрын
But there are climbers who are able to top boulder with the last try, if your attempts goes into it and it doesnt score, that sucks alot. And if they are scoring it by points now on lead then why is there a timer.
@Jon-cw8bb
@Jon-cw8bb Жыл бұрын
I thought you liked speed 🌚
@m.g.kroger
@m.g.kroger Жыл бұрын
Competitori for medals may kill climbing, the competition is with ourself, not against the other climber, this gives a weird moral to the pure spirit of climbing.
@mitch-lawless
@mitch-lawless Жыл бұрын
Really don't understand why they can't have three seperate events and medals? They give medals away like candy for athletics and swimming (and appropriatley so), how is this any different?
@briseboy
@briseboy Жыл бұрын
I certainly agree with Jakob on separating the medals, and additionally,, STRONGLY SUGGEST that speed climbing should be updated to use of an extension ladder, with speed climbers required to carry buckets of soapy water and squeegees, with stopping points at which they are required to wash windows. Because climbing is normally creative/problem solving, of course scoring of speed climbing will include negative marks for number of streaks left on the windows.
@jamescunningham9277
@jamescunningham9277 Жыл бұрын
Thank god speed has been removed
@Moni_145_kg
@Moni_145_kg Жыл бұрын
Jesus, that guys neck surely has a elbow or knee or sth.
@tested123
@tested123 Жыл бұрын
Who can climb adams neck the fastest
@israelolvera558
@israelolvera558 Жыл бұрын
🥰😇💗♥️💖❤️😘💓❣️
@themeatpopsicle
@themeatpopsicle Жыл бұрын
What I expect to see is people cutting their bouldering effort short if they get intermediate points on the first attempt and don't top in the next few attempts.
@krissroxxy
@krissroxxy Жыл бұрын
It's actually the other way around. (It happened in one of the women's bouldering rounds, I think). In the old format, if the athlete has the zone but know they have no chance to top, they leave to save the skin and energy. Now if they have one zone, they will still climb again even if they know they cannot top (for time, skin or simply strength reason) because they can still get the second zone a create more separation.
@themeatpopsicle
@themeatpopsicle Жыл бұрын
​@@krissroxxy I'm talking about ending the effort between second zone and top in order to avoid the penalty, since the scoring doesn't sort by number of tops. Historically problems have been set with the upper section being the least-achievable (for whatever reason), so spending .5 or .8 on a problem you don't think you can get the 25 is much less attractive than racking up attempts to get another top. Probably won't happen that often but it'll definitely be a topic of discussion when it does.
@krissroxxy
@krissroxxy Жыл бұрын
@@themeatpopsicle i see. Yeah i guess
@joebobst8423
@joebobst8423 Жыл бұрын
good for dropping speed. now must separate lead and boulder.
@sundown005
@sundown005 Жыл бұрын
Lead's scoring is not really fair... if someone falls just before a change in points per hold, it won't reflect his/her efforts proportionally. Just my feeling fwiw ^^
@TristanCleveland
@TristanCleveland Жыл бұрын
As a viewer, it'd be better if the early lead holds were worth something, because otherwise, they feel "point-less," so to speak. It's like it's saying to the viewer: the real climbing hasn't started yet. Could also obviously lead to problems of separation, if two climbers were tied in bouldering, and fell at different spots on the lead wall.
@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989
@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 Жыл бұрын
I'd like decimals like the attempts on boulders
@ipudisciple
@ipudisciple Жыл бұрын
The early holds on the lead wall are not supposed to be testing. At that level, they don't (usually) fall from there. The early holds are a test of how efficiently you can climb them. As such, the effect is felt later on, when the pump sets in earlier or later.
@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989
@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 Жыл бұрын
@@ipudisciple People do slip though. If you slip on hold 2 vs hold 20 there's a difference in performance. Not that either of those people are medaling (hopefully)
@TristanCleveland
@TristanCleveland Жыл бұрын
@@ipudisciple See Innsbruck, 2022, women's finals, and watch person after person fall early. See Adam Ondra, falling early in Innsbruck in 2021. In most finals, at least one person falls early.
@TristanCleveland
@TristanCleveland Жыл бұрын
@@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 Makes sense to me. I was thinking the same thing.
@thomasturner649
@thomasturner649 Жыл бұрын
This new scoring system is orders of magnitude better than the bullshit that they had at the olympics. I don't see why swimming gets 37 different events but rock climbing had to fight so hard to get 2.
@noone-ld7pt
@noone-ld7pt Жыл бұрын
I still don't get it. Swimming has like a gazillion different medals in the olympics, why can't they have 3 for climbing?
@FastFink
@FastFink Жыл бұрын
Good improvement on format, but why is bouldering you get 3 points, 6 points, or 25 points?? That is so dumb. It should be like 5-15-25 or something since the hardest part of boulder problems arent always the finish, plus the difference between being able to do the last move on a problem and only getting to the 2nd zone should have a different point valuation (kind of like the lead climb portion). I don't think it would be healthy to restrict the boulder point value based on hold-by-hold points, but I think 3-6-25 is very poor form and whoever thought that was the solution should not be in the position they are in
@GregCannon7
@GregCannon7 Жыл бұрын
6 was chosen very intentionally, so that tops are always more important than zones (the way bouldering has always been scored). 1 top 0 zones = 25 points, 0 tops 4 zones = 24 points. Whether you agree that tops should always take priority is a different question, but mathematically that's why they chose the numbers they did.
@johannestiukuvaara9978
@johannestiukuvaara9978 Жыл бұрын
Good thing they got rid of ‘speed ‘climbing
@tictoc900912
@tictoc900912 Жыл бұрын
목 긴게 도움이 되나
@magnolia7859
@magnolia7859 Жыл бұрын
Wtf IOC have in there mind ? Why they don't want just give 3 medals ? and keep the format of IFSC comps. I don't like way they want to change rules of incoming sports and the influence they have on them. They think they are on a pedestal.
@Toxus8
@Toxus8 Жыл бұрын
The length of that neck is so intimidating
@nolopo1
@nolopo1 Жыл бұрын
if Jakob beats you in the next olympic games, are you going to stop talking to him too?
@nolopo1
@nolopo1 Жыл бұрын
If you lose again you can't blame the formula anymore. Maybe to the weather...idk
@luigiantoniosquillante7913
@luigiantoniosquillante7913 Жыл бұрын
The modern boulders are too ninja style. It no more likle mimic the outside rock climbing. I don't like it.
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 Жыл бұрын
I just realized that I have climbed 5.13 since before Adam was born.
@blinzi69
@blinzi69 Жыл бұрын
how is Ondra still considered the best climber in the world... I've never see him do great things at competitions. Is he too nervous?
@krissroxxy
@krissroxxy Жыл бұрын
You don't watch many comps, do you?
@OnsightGames
@OnsightGames Жыл бұрын
This has to be the worst scoring system I have ever seen. Its overly complicated, weights lead heavily over boulder, the 0.1 deduction for attempts on boulder seems irrelevant, just make a full point deduction if you are going to deduct anything. Just make a zone for each boulder 5 pts, additional 5pts for top and each move on lead 1 point each. Something like this.
@giacomocasanova2893
@giacomocasanova2893 Жыл бұрын
the system worked great. i think it‘s also really fair. points in lead do have to be somewhat more distributed to the top otherwise 1 boulder would count for a quarter of the lead route. the 0.1 also make a lot more sense than the + they used to have
@Ceros64
@Ceros64 Жыл бұрын
The goal of the format is that you max at 100 points per discipline if you flash all boulders and top the lead route which balances them out. Tops should have a much higher impact than making a zone. It still has top > zone > attempts, but if someone goes top on 10 attempts, they still topped it in the end. The math is much more fair here
@yugytomm
@yugytomm Жыл бұрын
I guess 0.1 is supposed to be useless unless there is a draw.
@OnsightGames
@OnsightGames Жыл бұрын
@@giacomocasanova2893 the way this system works makes the attempts you take on the boulder irrelevant. Jakob couldve taken literally 50 more attempts and still beat adam with reaching 1 higher lead hold. As he did
@shafwong1159
@shafwong1159 Жыл бұрын
.1 deduction is relevant to track attempts on a bloc versus no penalty for a flash
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