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This week Tristan and Catie do Magnus Midtbo's 9c test to settle once and for all who is stronger! Battle ensues, along with a fair amount of smack talk as they measure their finger strength, pull-up power, core and endurance. Who will come out on top - boulderer or sport climber?
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- Do the test on your own and let us know how you do by commenting below!
- Here's a link to the original Magnus video if you'd like to watch it:
• The strength you need ...
Thank you to @cityrockct1420 for hosting us this week! Check them out in Cape Town or Joburg: cityrock.co.za/
Test information:
If you need help calculating the weight you need to add here's an example:
To calculate 140% bodyweight for Catie (her weight is 53kg):
53KG X 1.4 = 74.2
74.2KG - 53KG = 21.2KG (weight added)
*round to the nearest decimal
A Short cut:
53KG X 0.4 = 21.2KG
Points: 40=9c 39=9b+ 38=9b 37=9b 36=9a+ 35=9a+ 34=9a 33=9a 32=8c+ 31=8c+ 30=8c 29=8c 28=8b+ 27=8b+ 26=8b 25=8b 24=8a+ 23=8a+ 22=8a 21=8a 20=7c+ 19=7c+ 18=7c 17=7c 16=7b+ 15=7b+ 14=7b 13=7b 12=7a+ 11=7a+ 10=7a 9=7a 8=6c+ 7=6c+ 6=6c 5=6c 4=6b 3=6b 2=6a 1=6a
Exercise 1/4: Max finger strength, approx. 20 mm crimp (5 sec)
1 Point = 100% (body-weight)
2 Points = 110%
3 Points = 120%
4 Points = 130 %
5 Points = 140 %
6 Points = 150%
7 Points = 160%
8 Points = 180%
9 Points = 200%
10 Points = 220%
Exercise 2/4: Max pull-up (one rep)
1 Point = 100% (body-weight)
2 Points = 110%
3 Points = 120%
4 Points = 130 %
5 Points = 140 %
6 Points = 150%
7 Points = 160%
8 Points = 180%
9 Points = 200%
10 Points = 220%
Exercise 3/4: Core strength
1 Point = 10 sec L-sit (bend knees)
2 Points = 20 sec L-sit (bend knees)
3 Points = 30 sec L-sit (bend knees)
4 Points = 10 sec L-sit
5 Points = 15 sec L-sit
6 Points = 20 sec L-sit
7 Points = 5 sec front lever
8 Points = 10 sec front lever
9 Points = 20 sec front lever
10 Points = 30 sec front lever
Exercise 4/4: Hang from bar
1 Point = 30 sec
2 Points = 1 min
3 Points = 1,5 min
4 Points = 2 min
5 Points = 2,5 min
6 Points = 3 min
7 Points = 3,5 min
8 Points = 4 min
9 Points = 5 min
10 Points = 6 min
00:00 Intro
02:06 Weigh-in
02:42 Finger test
08:15 Pull-up test
12:20 Core test
13:50 Bar hang test
16:37 Final results
#bouldering #climbing #training #climbingtraining #climbinglife #gymmotivation #getstrong #climbingrocks #girlswhoclimb #boulderinggym