R90/6 #14 Master Cylinder Removal & Oil Pan

[@boxer2valve]

Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-14-master-cylinder-removal-oil-pan.html

[@brucepietro6046]

Thank you so much for your awesome videos on the repairs of the BMW R90/6. I have learned much along the way while watching these videos. I own a 1976 BMW R90/6 that was well cared for during its 47 year timespan. I have purchased a few items from your online store and hope to do some more maintenance this springtime. Good job on sharing your knowledge and skills, along with the easily to understand explanations during the videos.

[@rotory2002]

Its funny that you mentioned about the old style O-rings on the oil filter. I am restoring a 74 R90/6 and its been sitting since 1986 and when I replaced the oil filter I saw that stray o-ring deep on the filter shaft. Having been a mechanic for over 40 years, I knew it needed to come off ! You are wonderful at letting people know those "Little" annoying things that most don't think of :) Thanks for being so precise !

[@boxer2valve]

Thanks, Amazing that there are still those O-rings out there!

[@usefulskillsable]

Just came across this series of videos after coming in from removing the (dry) master cylinder from my '74 R90/6. Now considering rebuild vs replace. Excellent and very useful stuff with a great presentation style. Thank you.

[@6CylSuccessVideos]

Brilliant. Anxious to see your video on reassembly of the brake system, esp. bleeding. I am going crazy bleeding mine! Thanks!

[@ronaldentwistle2730]

Hi Just seen you remove sump, I was surprised to not see you clean the oil pick up pipe filter. I mention this because I have a Avensis which had a blocked filter so much so that it lost all oil pressure.luckily I just caught it in time. Regards

[@eduki]

I followed completely the series during two days, this is an amazing work! and thank you so much for sharing it! I wish you show how to carb properly the airhead, i´d like to learn about it for my r100rs, please keep on uploading more!

[@azhirise]

As usual - a great video and solid information

[@boxer2valve]

Thank you Gerald!

[@karlozehe1128]

Toller Kanal macht Spaß zuzuschauen

[@johnarisman2022]

william Thank you for another outstanding video.... John

[@boxer2valve]

You are welcome. There are more in the queue. Thanks for your comment.

[@sbourdondvm]

good series. two points as many who are watching this have later bikes it would have been good to mention the $5000 O ring, that becomes an issue with the later design of oilfilter the larger the viscosity range the greater the amount of viscosity modifiers the less room for lubricating molecules

[@ChunkehMunkeh]

Now then William, I'm dying to know, who was that band you were playing?

[@sailorcto]

That oil pan looks like a deep pan that Mac used to make. Any markings on it?

[@glynharding8109]

Excellent Videos!

[@boxer2valve]

Thank you very much!

[@Gabriel.-_-.]

Does the 1976 R60 /6 Airheads also need the white o-ring? I didn't see it in this video, I did however find parts of one in my oil pan, and a shim in the assembly... Also I couldn't find it on your site (other than with the 2 piece oil filter kit), nor is it included in your full gasket kit for my bike, so i'm really not sure if i need it... Great videos, thank you so much!!!

[@gustavekeraressi9224]

good job my friend please give us a video r60/5 wiring diod, alternator and the connection of the harness thank you

[@antoniovasarisworld9792]

thank you for this video. i have a r90/6 im upgrading the master cylinder because i cant find a replacement under $300

[@paulwatson9801]

I have just found you ! Where have you been all my life ? Well , at least while I have been restoring my R100RT anyways. Great videos..THANK YOU .

[@boxer2valve]

Hi. Thanks very much! We appreciate the positive feedback and there's lots more to come!

[@fostermckeon9504]

My hero!

[@shingerz]

Hi there great video im going to change the oil on my 1979 r80/7 and take off the oil pan I've seen some people saying the bolt on the pan below where the oil filter is needs a bit of sealant on it would you say that's correct regards mick

[@jeffreyweldon6903]

Another great and informative video, the editing is much appreciated though I wish I could turn a wrench that quickly!

[@boxer2valve]

Ha Ha! Me too! Thanks very much!

[@faustokubli-garcia61]

Hi, really good video. Do you have one removing and installing camshaft? My R90S has the nose of the camshaft distorted, and I can not calibrate points!!!

[@boxer2valve]

We have not yet produced any videos about complete engine disassembly yet, which is more or less what is required to remove the cam shaft. We will be covering that in detail with our next project, to be determined.

[@vintagemotorcyclerepair4052]

Wouldn't that deep oil pan have required an extension spacer for the pick-up tube? I didn't see you remove that before you put the shallow pan on.

[@boxer2valve]

The spacer is not necessarily needed. The oil level remains the same with the deep oil pan. It's included with some deep pans, but not all.

[@vintagemotorcyclerepair4052]

@@boxer2valve Thanks for your answer. I noticed in the Mac catalog that their deep pan comes with a spacer. It seemed strange that your bike didn't have one, but you make a good point that the oil level is the same. It would worry me, though, that deep in a long sweeping turn, it might be possible that part of the pick-up would not be completely submerged in oil. I dig the series you shot on this bike. Do you anticipate any more videos from that build, or is that finished?

[@spacelab2756]

I always soak my new filter in clean oil before I stick it in there.

[@jr100g4]

Great videos, I want you to restore my 1981 R100RT.

[@FooYeezy]

Hey! first of all thanks for your great video! I was wondering if its possible to simply convert back an r100 with oil cooler, to this construction of your /6 so just an oilfilter, pan and and the lid? Meaning removing the tube to the cooler and and sealing it with the lid you removed to access the oil filter. Cheers

[@boxer2valve]

Hi, thanks! Yes, you can easily eliminate the oil cooler, but the parts will be not like a /6 but will do the same thing. You will need BMW part number 11 42 1 263 345 (cover) and replace the center tube with the shorter version (11 11 1 263 342) and at that point, you can use the non-cooler filters.

[@TimeGallon]

Hello, I have a 76 r90/6 that I’ve neglected changing the oil on. Looking to do it myself but there’s one thing confusing me. The bike came with an oil change kit from BMW. It has the hinged filter with two small o-rings, the gasket for the cap, and larger o-ring (1 1/4” approximately in diameter) After reading about the $2,000 o-ring (then subsequently discovering that 77 was the first year BMW introduced the design requiring the $2,000 o-ring) I’m curious if this oil change kit I’d meant for a later year. But I’m light of all the horror stories I’ve read, I’m hesitant. In short, if I’m looking to change the oil for my 76 r90/6, will I simply only need 1. The gasket for the cover 2. The oil filter and oil 3. Crush ring for the drain plug?

[@boxer2valve]

Are the two small o-rings attached to the filter? If not, It sounds like you maybe got a very old oil filter kit. The two small o-rings that you mentioned used to be separate and now, and for many years, the seal rings are captive in the ends of the filter. If you have the old style, then it may be best to purchase a new filter. But you are correct. On an R90/6 you should only need the gasket. If the oil filter cover is flat, there's no big o-ring. If the oil filter cover is dimpled, then you do use the O-ring and most importantly there is a shim that goes in beneath the O-Ring. That's the easiest way to tell which version you have.

[@TimeGallon]

boxer2valve BMW Restoration and Parts Supplier I do think this oil filter kit is one of the elder models you spoke of. The filter itself has the BMW insignia on it and the two o-rings, I can imagine would fit around either end of the filter. On a separate note, I appreciate the videos. Everything from the cleanliness and organization of the shop, the information itself, the camera angles and the editing is so well done. I’m looking forward to purchasing some parts from your website soon. Also, just subscribed to the channel. Thanks for the response!

[@cliveblake3540]

Great video as usual, did you change the oil pick up when fitting the standard sump or modify the aftermarket one that was fitted?

[@boxer2valve]

Hello and thank you very much! There was a spacer installed at the oil pickup to lower it. We simply removed that spacer, then reinstalled the oil pickup without it.

[@bobflannagan7262]

The old pan looked coated with black sludge, do engines like that ever get treated with a flush first?

[@boxer2valve]

Hi. That's great question. In this case, since the bike had been sitting for such a long time, we decided to remove the pan. If you have a bike that runs, then an oil flush is always a good idea! We offer a great product from Liqui Moly which does just that. Part Number 2201657 on either www.boxer2valve.com or www.wunderlichamerica.com This stuff really works well and there is no reason why one should not use it at every oil change, but at least once, with subsequent frequent changes.

[@TheBsquadleader]

Would you still use that Liqui Moly 15w50 on an air-cooled 1971 BMW R75/5? Or, do you recommend something different? I notice mine is hard to start when it's cold in fall.

[@boxer2valve]

Hello, Yes, I recommend 15W50 on all models from 1970 onward in cooler temperatures.

[@sailorcto]

I think that deeper sump is either from Mac or a BMW from 1981-1984.

[@duncanmacpherson2013]

I do not think it is BMW 81-84 as I have one of those on my own R90/6

[@duncanmacpherson2013]

I would not waste time and money attempting to repair that brake master cylinder. A better and cheaper option would be to use a post 81 handlebar mounted master cylinder which is a superior item anyway. This is what my R90/6 has

[@GarthGoldberg]

"Put some soothing music on." Plays punk rock.

[@allwinds3786]

No not punk, Mahler #6 2ed movement.

[@GarthGoldberg]

This video states that "more oil is always a good thing." In fact, BMW actually recommended putting in LESS oil in the R90 and R90S models because of complaints of excessive oil consumption, especially at high revs (above 6,500 rpm). A memo from Ettlich Lohmann, presumably a BMW engineer, dated December 1975 states, "The engine lubrication is by no means affected by the decrease of the maximum filling capacities. Often the oil temperature can even be lowered since, with less oil, there is hardly any heat build up, and heat dissipation via the oil pan outer skin is improved."

[@boxer2valve]

Thanks very much for that information! It’s extremely interesting and makes sense!

[@nunosilva6787]

master cylinder $383 on MAX BMW

[@boxer2valve]

We now have some master cylinders available that have been sleeved and are in like new condition for far less money. These are not on our web site. If you are interested, please submit a contact form to technical support on our web site.